Building The Worlds Craziest Overlanding Camper Truck - The ROOF
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
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When you get to the insulation stage, begin studying “thermal bridging”. You live and camp in the northwest and you will be so happy with your camper if you keep the thermal bridging as minimal as possible. Basically, those metal “studs” for the walls need to have some material on the inside face that keeps the cold from transmitting to the interior face of the wall. Even a thin layer of insulation felt on the inside of all your steel members will cut down drastically on the heat loss through the walls.
He doesn't listen about frame/cab flex, why would he care bout thermal bridging......
Great advice. Also, I can’t imagine that using an aluminum skin would save a lot of weight… not sure it would add THAT much cost. But it would be significantly lighter.
@@RealRickCox when dissimilar metals are in contact it can cause galvanic corrosion. It's certainly simpler to keep it all steel.
@@questioner1596 it's still worth adding a thermal Bridge. Even if using Steel in and out
@@questioner1596 Ahh okay. Shows you how much I know about metallurgy! 😂😂
What if the aluminum is coated with Alodine? Would that protect it? I’m familiar with using it to protect aircraft. Not sure how it would work in this situation.
One thing to consider is to reinforce your wheel wells in case of a blowout so when the tire blows, it doesn’t rip all the flooring out or any plumbing or wiring that’s from experience
im with you on this, if the frame twists at all thats going to be an issue. im guessing parts of the box frame build will bend. still wishing them best of luck though!
My prediction…. It’s gonna cause problems when the body twists, even a little. I’d use a nice rubber composite to fill the gap in between the cab and camper. Hopefully it works but I’m skeptical.
No the cab and the box are one just like a sub it is not going to twist
It's welded to the cabin. Ain't no rubber going to add any flex now.
I would of went with a rubber accordian boot between the cab and box. Whatever you want to call it. The cab and box always have movement between them. Even a very minimal movement will not play nice with their welding.
Definitely going to be problems with the way this thing is built.
There are thick rubber bushings underneath it. They will allow the rear to flex and the camper to stay aligned with the front/cabin
love the build chris just maybe suggest rounding out the front? even forgetting the drag/fuel/noise at even 60mph thats alot of force on such a large vertical plate on the front that is going through those front mounting points as it levers and a high pressure area between the roof and the frame. Just interested to hear your thoughts
Shuttle bus bodies are mostly fiberglass with wood, the only steel is the frame for the floor.
Love that you guys are willing to risk a complete fail on a project just to see if you can help people out. Nice that you'd be willing to take that loss to save viewers from taking it
Chris, this looks great and probably one of the most interesting builds of yours that I cant want to see the finished product. One observation that I have; I have a Toyota FJ with a camper tent on top, there is a lot of drag and noise over 55mph. The front on your camper is way bigger than mine so I believe it will be very noisy to drive and you will get a lot of drag. Hope you have considered the aero dynamics during the design phase. Wishing you best of luck with this awesome project.
Great work so far! One idea on how to get a TON of useful parts is to buy a used motor home that was maybe in a small accident? You could use the fiberglass walls, windows, doors, insulation, appliances, pumps, etc, etc.
Guys, if it's not perfect and it breaks that's more cool building to try and remedy it. I dont understand all the questioning of this build
Can't wait for the interior. I know you guys will spare no detail.
Hahaha
Man door for the living quarters should be on the passenger side so if anyone is getting out, they’re not exiting on the traffic side.
considering it is pass through to cab either of the rear doors can be used for egress, shouldn't matter too much.
I'm so excited to see you get that new shop. You guys deserve it so much 💓
I could care less about trucks and camper vans. I watch because I love to see Chris's engineering and design mind work, and Oscar's amazing fabrication skills. Great channel!
Then care less. Unless you meant you couldn’t care less…
That RAM in the picture shown is the NEW FRAME! You have a older generation still a dodge im confident in your build!
Keep doing it your way! Yours will be the best and others will want to replicate what you're doing.
There's a place in Portland called Affordable RVing that would have lots of stuff for this build
FOR REAL i can't wait for the next episodes!!!
Some great progress on the project. You should get an English wheel and bead roll the panels for extra strength and to cut down on vibration
That looks awful close to the height of the loading door. IMAGINE IF "FINISHED" THEY COULDNT GET IT OUT....
In the last video he said they measured to make sure it fit. If need be they will air the tires down
He mentioned that. Said they may need to let the air out of the tire or take off tires and roll out on a jack or something.
Just take the tires and axles off and drag it like they do at Copart.
Air tires out...temp shop
I was just about to comment on this. 😂
If going for a window style a/c unit for this build, you may want to mount it higher as hot air rises and cold air sinks.
They can run a duct!
My main concern is that many states require all original safety equipment (ie. lights and etc.) to function in order to pass inspection. So how do you intend to replace the cab lights in the event they burn out.
I was thinking the same thing. I hope they put new led bulbs in before the roof platform was welded on.
I haven’t seen enough of these comments!
not an out of service item, might get a ticket, but they wont shut you down. but I bet Chris is willing to cross that bridge if and when it happens....
@@andrewward4246 Agreed during the year just a ticket but at inspection time to renew the plates ALL safety items must function, hell I have failed initial inspection because my wipers were worn.
There is no safety vehicle inspections in Oregon only Emissions
Would be nice seeing you guys going on a adventure together in this thing.
It's been a while since I visited your channel and I forgot the PTSD I developed from binging your channel for 2 weeks. I'm pretty sure in that time i listened to that same royalty free generic rock beat numbers 2 through 4 at least 700 times. And I'm appalled to see that you're still fucking using it. Jesus man you got me doing the thousand yard stare.
Cant wait for the bigger space. Get those beautiful cars from all those flying sparks
Excellent stuff, totally amazed at how you got so many cars in back of shop that tight. Keepem komen
Door on the left side is an interesting choice. Most camper trailers have the door on the right. Seems correct to be on the right when it comes to parking curbside. Not that you will be street parking it.
you can get in and out via the cab, so its not really much of a problem, if they do park kerb side, just go out of the rear passenger door.
I work in the RV industry in Elkhart Indiana. The doors can be on either side but the majority are on the curbside. I was actually a “door guy” on a few lines and had to pay attention to the door placement so I knew which door to install.
It’s going to have two doors. One on each side.
It's going to have three doors. One on each side and the back.
@@Smokkedandslammed back will be storage locker all the way across under the window
I can honestly tell you I’m quite intrigued and interested by this build.
At least more than I would have believed from the beginning.
Great job there, cheers!
B is for overBuilt LOL! That is going to be one SOLID monster! Can't wait to see it crush the haters!
I would say this is an unusual build, but being "here" long enough I think seen a bit of everything 😆 Cool stuff!
I honestly think the most you’ll have to do for the weight is maybe add bags
-a mechanic that works on fleet vehicles
It has over 9,000 pounds rear GAWR - if they get close to that with the weight so far rearward it will eventually snap the frame. Their problem is not suspension... and the truck came with air bags.
Steel is a great way to go! Easy and will last for years if properly coated!
I’ve seen so many with wood and within a few years problems!
The gvwr is the weight of the truck one driver and a full tank of fuel. The Dodge the broke in half had a ton of weight behind the axle where it wasn't designed. Your frames won't break because of the weight being spread over the entire chassis. The issue I see is once you build it and get three guys in it with all your gear and food and adding the tongue weight of a trailer your pushing your limits. But I'll wait to see what happens lol
GVWR is the max weight the entire vehicle and everything in it can weigh.
@@OnyxCobra yep I do believe they base the capacity on 1 person though. So the payload would be calculated at the weight of the truck with 1 person and a tank of fuel. If you add 1000 pounds of people and stuff that reduces you max payload by 1000 pounds. Some people just figure if payload is 6000 pounds they fill the cab with everything then add 6000 pounds in the box which is overloaded if that makes sense
@@kevind5508 I like this BifB community.
Very helpful and constructive 😎
Who is the forth person? Did you ever introduced him? Maybe you guys should strengthen the chassis a bit, just to be sure. Maybe the front sleeping area, front wall should be more pointy for better airflow.
Brother you inspire me your builds are amazing and very DIY friendly. Keep it going from a 56 YOA vet. America!!!!
Could always pilfer some fiberglass panels from an old camper or RV. It's not like there aren't plenty of materials here in Portland anyway. A feller could maybe do some bigger panels with reclaimed panels and then steel panels for where zombies might try to get in.
I would change the good year wranglers out for some nitto grapplers. The wranglers where really weird and are made more for a small suv. The nittos are a much harder rubbber and made for hauling
The bent frame guy was also on a short bed truck I think vs your long bed/extended bed truck. That's a big difference!
No, the widely featured broken Ram and this truck are both Ram 3500 DRW with 8-foot boxes. This one is a lot older - they are different by generations.
Would you consider skinning it in fiberglass over fleece in lieu of steel? Minimize heat transfer and potentially weight as well.
Making this out of steel plate is going to be craaaazy heavy. Good luck! I can t wait to see it.
1 inch won't be enough/ the cab will move 3 inches plus twist / limb sliders bolted the the roo bar helps stabilise the over cab bunk / also helps the roo bar with impact
So Cool-Great Content!! This is moving out quickly - NICE
Add Pull Out Stairs and also storage in front and behind the rear wheels on both sides :)
How do you plan to service the cab lights if they need to be replaced?
Good question.
They may have taken the bulbs out already since they aren't going to serve a purpose any longer.
Hopefully the seals don't leak either.
Put new ones on the front.
@@Whatwherewhy586 wide vehicle ID and clearance lights are still required. Do you think that builders like this would really leave dead lights in place? That wouldn't look very flashy.
If the weight is distributed before the rear axle and you don't go crazy with 10 gauge steel sheets for walls the weight should not be a problem and the frame is not going to crack. And you can always weld frame support if that's a concern
But you can use you lay down steel mesh around the steel frame and then you can fiberglass body that covers the steel mesh which will give you some residency plus the steel aspect
Great job on the video folks! Thanks for making it.
Have you thought about or did I miss you guys talking about doing maybe a kind of front exo cage? You could tie in some of the front of the camper to a beefy bumper, and sidesteps directly tied to the frame for more torsional stiffness. Angled bar from the top of the windshield straight to the top of the bumper could act double duty as a branch guard for the windshield.
the truck will be fine, they braced the frame for twisting and its pretty much a short bus you can sleep in, and when is the last time anyone saw a school bus snap in half, awesome build guys!!! I had this same idea years ago and its so cool to see someone actually doing it!!! love the channel!
Aluminum would save a lot of weight. You do you, I’m excited about this build. Come camp in Arkansas. I’ll bring the beer. 😎
There's a reason that campers and RVs are built of aluminum, wood, and fiberglass. Going to be a rusty mess in a few years if you don't powder coat the entire thing which isn't possible with the way you have built it. Did you see the newer dodge dually that bent in half?
What if it is rhino lined?
I’m on my third RV build , there’s a siding called Filon that’s fairly inexpensive.
The cab to bed joint should have a gasket instead of being one solid structure across that span. Would be interesting to hear your take on why you decided to weld it solid without a joint for flex. Speed bumps, dirt roads, driveways.
Theyre isolating the camper like the cab with rubber bushings. The cab and camper will be one giant piece. The frame will be able to flex beneath it
@William Bailey true but a truck will flex a lot between the cab and box. This is the first I think most people have seen were someone has tried to weld the camper box to a cab on a truck like this.
@@williambailey309 but I like seeing them trying things nobody else has.
@@williambailey309 Uhhh I have a camper with a cabover. Bolted to the rear frame, it moves easily 1.5" above the cab
@@williambailey309 The rubber bushing won't make enough of a difference, the box is going to rip away from the cab at the first speed bump, those frames twist and move way more than they're accounting for.
I think it would’ve been a great idea to move the clearance lights that are on top of the cap to on top of the camper. Would’ve been a nice touch
It would say that would be the minimum for legality and just common sense.
Little upset that you showed a Revel as your Class B RV example instead of a Storyteller Overland Beast Mode but it's fine 😅. I'm a little biased though since I'm part of the awesome team that builds the STO Modes! Anyway enjoying the content and when you get into insulating and sealing, look into Havelock wool and Dicor!
I hope that you put LED bulbs in the top of cab lights, don't think you are going to be replacing them in the future
Oscar is the Star of the show. His welding ability is 🔥🔥🔥
Ideea.. you can paint it all with bed black paint like the roof and the camper side will have a multifaced area ...just like a f-117 fighter plane ...😉
Probably too late but If you are worried about weight on the walls you could do your patented airplane fabric trick on the outside with a layer of rigid insulation sandwiched between that and maybe some FRP panels inside (which are about $25 to $50 for a 48"x96" sheet)....Screw + Silicone it together to the steel frame. What was that stuff? Ceconite fabric?
Well with weight at most you might need to add some more bracing under the cab and add another leaf spring to the pack but otherwise not that much of a worry
As this build gets heavier with each stage, anyone else curious how its going to get out of the current shop with that massive drop at the door??
Some box vans are built similarly.
Not so much with the steel box, but the box they use (aluminum, or fiberglass coated plywood) is solid mounted to the frame and the cutaway cab is mounted in rubber.
They do just fine.
But do those boxes vans go off-road? No.
@@brianb-p6586 mine does
Hi, bro 😊
I'm from Bangladesh.
I hope you will give a complete video on the methods of making a motor home.
That is, like a - NEW kia camping car- kia small truck based class B RV Van❤ (Please)
a bunk bed in front of the door (A seat with a bed to sit on and a bunk bed on top of that), a toilet and kitchen in the middle, then a bunk bed (intro, interior, exterior).
⬆️
I will be grateful if you give a video on how to install these in the motor home. We are waiting for your video 😊
I ❤u 'r video🎉.thanks
Damn….Shawty Thicc. Can’t wait to see it lumbering around Mt. Hood!
you need some "Great job Oscar" merch !
look at this NEEK! he has oscar posters in his house
he is right tho! OSCAR IS THE MAN!
My biggest concern is that it will be top heavy and could tip if hit by a strong crosswind. I have been blown off the road in a car with a roof rack before. I know it will be strong, i just hope it will be safe. Love watching your builds. Thanks and we'll see you next time.
I hope you cut an access door for the cab lights. Nothing worse than to have a great looking project with one bulb burnt out that you can't get to.
Never see a 3rd gen Dodge frame break ever 💪🏻💪🏻👍👍
Your cars paint is going to be so contaminated from all that steel work. You should really cover the cars. Love the videos 👍
This is going to be the best tornado chasing vehicle ever
I feel bad for you if those cab lights ever burn out. Those bad boys are just going to have to be the way they are for life lol.
Enjoying the look but if you ever have to change out the marker lights on the roof you are going to have a hell of a time. But looking good!
When they get the new shop I hope they get a plasma table
Bubble window ❤
Beauty design.
Have you looked into the maximum allowable trailer width legal on the road before this frame? That looks crazy wide
8'6 is legal, he mentioned 8'3 I believe
I'm sure it will be great, the bones are coming along. Will having the camper attached to the cab create some issues when to truck articulates over bumps or pot holes?
Probably not. 80s or 90s truck frames are designed to flex, but these modern trucks really don't flex much.
Yes it certainly will... Those welds will rip right out of the top of the cab
Awesome job! Hope you guys go all out with this truck! Front end conversion, nice wheels, maybe a liftkit/stronger suspension.
I built something similar to this. There is one thing you may want to address, that I found on mine. Since the front overhangs the cab, there is a bunch of wind noise as it is captured by the overhang and passes over the roof. I tried a few things, but addressing it after it was built proved to be difficult. Looks good though.
I guess I should clarify this was noise in the cab while driving.
Drop the headliner and sound deaden the roof with sound mats. Like we do for car audio!
This is looking so awesome. Amazing job!!
Hoping to see some kind of custom B is For Build paint design on the side of the camper van area.
Love how much you guys use ratchet straps. Some of the best inventions of mankind there lol!
Honestly i was also thinking about the fact that the steel would make it weigh too much but, considering the ridiculous prices for campers, i completely understand, however you could have used sheets of plywood for the flooring and wall panels etc, plywood is very cheap compared to steel and is very commonly used in campers too.
Love the build so far! One thing going for you on the folding truck situation is you tied into the cab. Also it's gross vehicle weight rating, as opposed to government weight rating. Rock on!
Do you mean the gross vehicle weight rating that is set by the government? 😉
Why are you putting the entry door to the rear on the Driverside? That can pose a huge safety risk when and if you need to open that door on the highway. Just a thought...
Try building the walls out of wood maybe? Protective lining of some sort on the outside?
Just a thought, you’re using an orange strap for support during your build. Have you considered putting a 1/8x1” steel strap on the diagonal in the side walls to add rigidity?
coming along nicely, boys, great job 👍
I love these kind of builds. Waiting on a homemade EV supercar/drag car from you guys..
Looking good guys
The new Rams with the frame cracking issues, the new Rams don't have the frame braces and crack where the brace would normally be at on the older gens
most RV's are made of thin wood and cheap engineered wood products. having your skeleton made of steel tubing like this is smart because it will be durable and last longer. you can save weight on the interior and it will still be a better longer lasting piece of equipment. curious what your exterior walls are going to be. I'm also curious how you will be able to service the roof lights on the cab. isnt there a screw in the top that will be nearly impossible to get to now that the front part is installed?
This is definitely interesting I hope you get the new shop. Scammers will be reported don’t even try.
Build what u want,don't worry about ppl concerns on weight..ya can fishplate like 4ft sections on frame under can bxk under bed,and the diesel will pull it,and weight and frame won't ever be an issue.keepbbuildingbme and my son's love you guys!!!
you should look into how earthroamers are made.
Looking good 👍
Not sure if it was mentioned before but, you can reenforce the frame rails for the extra weight, that can be for extra security
I really enjoy these videos on how not to build a camper. I look forward to seeing the interior comes together.
haha
All of the people worrying about the weight of this build have never seen a fully stocked service truck. There is guys driving around one ton mechanics trucks that easily weight 17,000#
You need to use primer before bedliner😊
just so you know, GVWR actually stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. and that is more or less the max weight the vehicle is engineered for, which accounts for vehicle weight plus fluids plus occupants and/ or cargo.
I really think the jumpacan should have been called the ramporghini