Machining a MONSTER Drill Thread (It's Literally Off The Charts)
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- In this Part 2 follow up to last week's video, we are machining the male (pin) end of our custom drill rod tooljoint prototypes. These 318mm diameter tool joints are a custom thread that's 40% larger than anything of its kind commercially available, and will be screwed onto 1 tonne rods.
To be used by the 'big rig' - a land based, road registered drill rig capable of drilling a 3m diameter hole, 250m deep from the surface, mostly intended for large underground ventilation holes.
In the video, we use:
WNMG tips for external turning.
Depth of cut 3.5mm
Finishing 1mm
170 VC, 0.33--.35 feed
CNMG tips on KONG (the boring bar)
Depth of cut 4mm
Finishing 2mm
120VC, 0.3-0.35 feed
Hand ground Kennametal top notch inserts for the custom thread profile.
As always, thanks for tuning in and I'll see you in the comments section!
I am a retired plumber so I understand about people giving you shyte. 🙂 I've always been fascinated with big machinery and the processes that make them work and I greatly appreciate on your edification on the design and processes that get them to the finish stage. Thank you for sharing Matt and I look forward to your future.
Thanks Richard!
Haha. I’m a full blown ranga, so basically immune to heckling due to lack of soul 👻
We hang shit on each other all day long. It’s part of the fun with working with a great bunch of blokes and it makes me look forward to coming into work.
Can’t take ourselves too seriously 💯
@@halheavyduty Amen to that brother!!
👊
I think most people understand you are a professional machinist first and a UA-camr second if not they are likely a professional troll your videos are fine. Thanks
Thanks man.
Appreciate the comment Brad.
I’m having a lot of fun with it all - mostly the comments hey. It’s nice to chat with people from around the world who share my interest in machining.
I do try to make each video a little better than the last. That’s the goal really.
Growth… a little at a time 👌👊
I’m impressed by your machining projects but also impressed by your consistent delivery of good content.
Thanks very much mate.
That’s the aim, be consistent and just get a little better each time. I always try to post stuff I find genuinely interesting.
Love this stuff! You're one of Only a couple of channels that does this kind of machining and I hope you continue to grow!!!
Thanks for the encouragement and great feedback mate. Really appreciate it and glad you enjoyed rhe vids so far.
I wanna see the rig and breakout tooling!😮 Great job with the prototype. Cheers
I’m itching to see it in action myself.
Great custom connection, can't wait to see the cross section👍
Cheers mate. Personally I find the “let’s get in and take a look” part just as fascinating as the machining.
😅 I have been watching machining videos for a little over a year and can truly say I know very little...
Your correct in saying haven't seen any video's like this because nobody else out there uses diluted VAMPIRE blood as coolant!
Instantly subscribed and can't wait to see more!
Tanks for sharing
Hahaha. Cheers mate. That comment made my day.
Diluted Vampire blood 🩸👌🤣
A video or two ago someone commented that it looked like we ground up the Pink Panther… and now the bloody song is stuck in my head every time I hit the coolant on button
@@halheavyduty You SIR are most entertaining and glad I made you crack a smile. (Would love to hear a shout out in the next part about "Vampire Blood" coolant - that will make my day!) Stay AWESOMENESS from Memphis Tennessee!
Done. Worthy of a shout out 💯🤣
Tremendous work! Love your enthusiasm and the great results.
Good fortune friend!
Thank you very much! 👊
this is a bad ass project, looking forward to your upcoming content
Cheers mate. Yeah we’re pretty much pushing the limits of what we can handle on this one.
Thanks for commenting 👊
About your videoing “That which we persist in doing becomes easier to do not because the nature of the task changes but our ability to preform it increases” Heber J Grant
Love it. Great quote. Thanks for sharing mate!
10k subs prize gota be a bag of that blue swarf 😜. awesome seeing this, love to see around the site and all the kit 👍
Cheers Pete. We ran the big 80mm Udrill yesterday and a monster swarf necklace peeled off.
Guys were taking photos and wearing it around the shop 🤣
You might be onto something for the 10k prize 🏆
You should give the drill bit a name. How about the Dundee? That's not a drill bit THIS is a drill bit.
I agree. The bit needs a name. No idea what though?!
The last one was called the KRASH bit, after the two boilermakers who mostly welded it all up (Krester & Ash)
The new big rig itself has a vehicle code DK60… So people have just started calling it Donkey Kong 🦍🤣
@@halheavydutyMust use the names of the rigs from _Armageddon (1998)._
Very cool content...I can't wait to see the end product doing what it does!
Thank you for the videos!
Thanks for tuning in mate, and for the kind feedback! 👊💯
Brilliant machining. 🇬🇬
Cheers brother! 🍻
Love this, thanks for making the effort.
Most welcome, and thanks for the kind feedback mate.
love seeing cnc cut threads, saw one making a sphere once, awsome
I find it so mesmerising to watch. Half the reason I started the channel was because I just love watching this stuff all day 🤣🤣
API ( guess in your case API type) Threads are too cool. I miss drilling somedays. It was always a challenge. Nevertheless this is way too cool a project to not see for an engineering nerd. I am happy you can show it Matt. Cheers
Thanks for the comment Warren! Yeah, I’m really grateful to be able to share snippets of the project.
It’s the most challenging one we’ve taken on yet.
Absolutely amazing 🇦🇺🍺👍
Thanks Peter!
That fit sounded GOOD. While I understand the need to mill a window in these test parts, may I also recommend some plasti-gauge in the threads. I'm thinking there may not be enough thread depth to use standard feeler gauges to check the clearances. I'm looking forward to the test of the final product on this build.
That’s a really good suggestion, thank you. We are debating everything now so that’s great input.
I’m always open to any good suggestion - a lot of what we do is unconventional and we try to stay really open to trying stuff out.
Great work
Cheers my friend. Thanks for all your help with tooling too. Really grateful for your expert help!
Outstanding...
Thank you mate
@@halheavyduty Thank you...
👊
Just subscribed 🎉 love the content awesome work my friend I own a small machine shop here in Texas.
Awesome! The company here was founded by a Canadian and Texan (Hal & Jean)
Grandma was a diehard lone state lady. No nonsense… and no one ever messed with Texas over here 💯👊
@@halheavydutySounds like my grandma. Was usually quiet but occasionally ornery and fearless.
(Waves from Texas.)
Described to a tee. Clearly a Texan trait 😜
Hi Matt, been watching since your first few videos. The subject matter is of great interest and I look forward to where this particular project is going. As for your videography skills, they've improved but IMO need to get better to grow your channel. My only expertise is having watched a bunch of videos from others so these are just my personal thoughts. 1- tighten up your intro. Keep it under a minute. Eliminate the recapping of information provided previous videos in the series. Keep your comments about what your doing in this video brief, If something needs an expanded explanation do a Voice over as its being shown on screen. 2- Close ups. They are good to show chip size and get the viewer into the moment, however if all you show is what's happening up close the shot looses context. In close up very large and very small things viewers can loose perspective of size.
Thanks for giving us a peek inside your industry.
That’s some excellent suggestions right there - thank you!
I agree re tightening the intro. I’m going to keep it under 60, and then tune in at the end with any discussion for the people who want to hang around for it.
Great ideas re camera work too, and I reckon you’re bang on. To grow the channel, it needs to improve a bunch.
Lots of food for thought. Thanks again mate. 👊👊
no complaints about camera work from me, looks fine.
Thanks man. I have a feeling they’ll naturally improve over time anyway as I get a bit more practice 👊
For the metrically challenged, 3 meters is roughly 10'. A 10' drill bit.
Thanks brother.
Im going to start using both when I describe measurements. Our shop operates in metric and imperial anyway because half of our gear is from the USA 🇺🇸
@@halheavyduty Or you could use bananas.
I’ll start measuring in Wombats 🤣
We are building a mega drill that you could fit 80 wombats in.
Freedom units. We still insist on doing lots of things in fractions like we'd rather stick to £sd even though the British had decimal day. Makes for having a fun index drill set to have all of the in-between, nearest neighbor sizes.
out of curiosity, why don't you reverse the order of operations and turn/thread the OD first, then bore the ID? I would think that would help with the ringing during threading.
That’s an excellent question! We do the inner section first so I can run a steady to get in there and hog it out with heavy cuts.
If I cut the pin first it’ll take significantly longer. Not only that, but the inner profile has a 60degree taper at the very end so I can drive the pipe up it for rigidity when threading.
The bit of rubber worked surprisingly well (thankfully).
Again, great question.
Think you need to do voice overs later after filming. Can't understand your explanations of whats happening 😮 all good though, maybe an explanation of your machine etc would be nice.
Regards😊
We’ll definitely be going over the machines in a future video.
They’re perfectly suited to the style of work we do and really good bits of gear.
You can run them as a CNC & they have a manual mode. Colchester Alphas.
As for your video talents, like anything time and repetition. And above all make the content that you want and those that like it like it and those that don’t won’t 😊
I appreciate that!
Thank you mate.
I like your magnetic lifter seems a lot less messing around than with a sling, but what would happen if you have a power outage at the wrong time, is there some sort of back up for it. cheers
They’re the handiest tool.
So it’s not electronic. The lever engages the magnet which is always on.
The little ones lift 300kg
The big one does up to 600kg.
With videoing I had to video a wedding over 20 years ago and do it so that it could be shown afterwards without any editing - we had no facilities to do so. A neighbour was an ex Channel 9 camera man. When asked for advice, he said look at wildlife videos and see what they do. He also said, don't zoom in and out unless necessary - and not often. Also think about what the viewer will see afterwards. So don't rush, gradually pan across what you want to video. Foe example, in a room, looking at who is attending, gradually pan around the room giving the viewer time (about 2 - 3 seconds) to recognize each person. So gently does it, keeping the camera stable vertically. Lean on something to help with stability. Now remember I had no experience and still have next to none. But think of some of the home movies you have seen and how unstable they are (meaning scatter brained). Then look at wildlife ones and see what techniques have been used. With thought, practice and patience you will be a whizz in no time. But always keep in mind, it is not what you are seeing, it is what the viewer is seeing afterwards, ie fluid, smooth and stable, plus in a logical sequence. PS. If this helps, you can help me. I am on a part pension and can give you my BSB and acct numbers. I only accept denominations in minimum of $1000 lots. Apart from that, hope this helps. Channel 9 cameraman's advice certainly helped me.
That’s some great advice. I’m definitely paying way more attention to how stuff is filmed now.
I’ll be sure to check out wildlife videos… and keep zooming in and out to a minimum.
Definitely something I do way to frequently right now.
Thanks again for taking the time to write that all out. Much appreciated!
@@halheavyduty No problems. I am a self taught machinist, mechanic, mower repairer and whatever else the neighbours dream up, in SW Sydney. My shed (16M x 8M) has a 2500mm x 660mm capacity, MT5 tailstock, Victor lathe from Taiwan. Also a Bridgeport copy mill and a NT40 hydraulic controlled mill. I do a lot of benevolent work in the community through our church but a lot of people have been very kind and given things to me. Have up to 2" P&N drill bit, down to 4mm MT1 and have gear to sharpen all. Have a Repco tool and cutter grinder and with adapters can now sharpen flutes on taps - very happy to have learnt that skill - remember it is a hobby shed and I want to learn all I can. Can also sharpen both faces on horizontal milling cutters. Have made a fine adjustment D1-8 mount for my 3 jaw chuck - can get TIR down to 0.015mm on ground bar - that took many hours and head scratching . Also made a travelling steady to cope with larger roller shafts making new outer housing and utilizing rollers from smaller model. Took collectively 25 hours with local fabrication firm that plasma cut the larger frames. Used my lathe and bigger steady to machine OD of their client's 900mm long x 320mm dia drum - they only have a smaller lathe. Still looking for older manual equipment I can squeeze into the shed like another more capable T&C grinder (and tooling) plus boring and facing head either R8 or NT40. Am 73 yrs old and NC equipment is beyond me - manual one off stuff is what I am into. So if you know of any old gear lying around in the back of anyone's shop I would be very interested. You do good stuff. Keep it up. I am learning heaps. Bob
That’s marvellous Bob. I love what you’re up to mate. Sounds like you’ve got a really well equipped shed too!
Hal (grandad) was like that. He retired as a driller at 60, then spent 27 years as a self taught machinist.
Being self taught, he was totally unbound by convention or rules and was able to produce some incredibly innovative and quirky stuff.
I imagine you’d be very much the same. Hal was beyond resourceful. I still find the odd shop made tool around… and I just stare at them wondering what the heck they were used for.
What is the purpose of drilling holes so big, can you explain, I love your video
Foundation pile at a guess, but Matt? Thoughts?
Great question. They’re used for ventilation in underground mining.
Hi MATT, firstly a lot better video than last week, glad you got rid of fades, BUT you need to buy a microphone that’s compatible with the camera the sound quality was horrible.
Try to stop using so many shots film a bit longer instead. Now with the machining of the diameter you should do a fast clip of that instead it would look way better and people understand its being machined.
Then film the entire thread cutting from one position no zoom or movement etc.
Jumping from one shot to another can be very annoying and your trying to build a following so slow and steady is the way mate.
Thanks Peter.
That’s some really practical advice, and I appreciate it. I’m going to sort the microphone for use when machining… or just do a post film voiceover.
Thanks again mate!
Amazing job, threads look good, what type of coolant do you use
It’s called Holemaker. We find it works well and does the trick.
Almost all our machining is 4140 steel, so not sure how it would go for other stuff.
I’m a film producer and would be happy to chat with you about your camera set up to help you get the best shots for your awesome work. Either way keep up the great work!
I’d love to chat to you about how I can improve stuff. That’d be great mate. If you can flick me an email & the best way to get in touch, I’ll reach out for sure. Halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com
@@halheavydutyjust emailed
Thanks brother. I’ll reach out during the week! Appreciate it.
RIP headphone users! That intro was loud. But I'm excited to see this project, and overall you're doing great for the video production.
Bro I’m so sorry 🤣
So I don’t do it again… was it the music or voiceover?? Still working it all out.
@@halheavyduty Music was a bit hot.
Cheers man. Will be mindful of that in the future 👊
@@halheavyduty It was just the intro music, so the first few seconds. After that it was fine! (I survived. LOL! But it was a surprise.)
🤣👊🙏
p.s i dont get sea sick watching your vids, some people eh.
Thanks mate! Glad you’ve got a good set of sea legs 🫡👊
Can I ask what coolant you are using?
If you look at from the first video he tells you then, If it isn't in there keep looking at the next.
It’s called Holemaker. A standard drilling and cutting fluid, but it works surprisingly well.
Great rust prevention properties and it never goes off. It also doesn’t have the oily residue… which is great for the hands as we run quick change toolposts 👍
Great video…❤
Thank you very much 🙏
@@halheavyduty Your welcome 🙏
👊
Just love it when ya tools are on centre height, like a hot carbide thru swarfe mound What was the TPI again?
It’s bloody great ain’t it! Agreed.
3 TPI brother
Hi and well done with your thread. Being a drilling rod end it surprises me that your are not using an API thread that are factory ground so you will get the perfect form on both internal and external. It will be interesting to see what the contact is when you mill the opening. Cheers and keep the film clips coming. Ian
I really don't know what milling a slot is going to tell anyone... you need metrology, always. Surely there must be ways to measure, simplest I can think of is three wire method. I wonder about the hand ground tools, to what traceable standard were they ground? The way the tool cuts on in the final stage of the operation looks dodgy to me. Then again, 'quality is conformance to specification' and we don't know what the drawing calls for.
@@bigbattenberg Yes hand ground tools always leads to mis match. Will wait to see what the opening up shows. Cheers Ian
@@ianlangley987 I don't know if blueing a thread is a thing, guess not because it may show a contact pattern but there is no way to correct based on that.
Some great comments here. Trust me I wish we could have just gone with a standard API, but we needed a 3 TPI and it doesn’t exist.
For the prototype, the main goal was to see it in the flesh, check we are happy with it… then get custom ground inserts made up.
The inserts look dodgy (agreed) but the cutting edges are bang on. The “dodgy” part is having to shape the bottom of the insert to stop the non cutting surface from rubbing.
I’m hoping we end up with a tool grinding machine - even for prototype runs in the future.
Again, great comments.
Love it.
@@halheavyduty In Pt 1 you consistently said "custom" and "prototype" meaning , one off. So even I, who knows little, realises that before larger scale manufacturing can begin you have to step slowly and adapt/amend tooling geometry's, speeds/feeds etc to get it right.
Good on ya mate for bringing us on this journey. subbing to see the final Beast in action.
did you run a zero pass before you moved it in 0.1 mm ? ( where you run it agen with out changeing anything. since often the lack of pushing back preasure makes it take just that tiny bit more that does all the diffrence. even in a big big heavy machine
when we have vibration problems we just take some big chucktastik strong magnest and put on/ inside the part ( or boring bars sometimes ) and make sure that the spaceing between them is NOT the same between any of them. that way the diffrent amouth of weight at uneven spaceing breaks up the vibration pattern.
btw her is a example of how i always do my roughing. witch have recused the wear on my tools dramaticly ( whend from 4 parts pr. corner to over 25 parts pr. coner at the same speed and feed rate )
M08
G0 Z0.2
G0 X50.
G1 X-1.6 F0.18
G1 0.3 X1.0
G0Z0.5
G0 X45.
G1 X47.0Z-12. F0.25
G1 X45.0 Z-22.
G1 X47.0 Z-29.7
G1 X50.0 Z-29.6
G0 Z0.5
G0 X42.
G1 X44. Z-5.
G1 X42. Z-11.
G1 X44. Z-19.
G1 X42. Z-25.
G1 X44. Z-27.
G1 X42. Z-29.7
G1 X45. Z-29.6
G0 Z0.5
G0 X40.
G1 Z-30.0
G1 X50.
G0 Z0 X100
use it/test it out if you want and see if you see a diffrence on your machine ( remember to thange the fedd. X and Z value to what you need though. but the main thing is that the thicnkness/depte is constantly verying. since the edge of the material wars most on you insert but if that point/edge is constantly changeing place on the side of you insert the wear is spread out over the entire cutting edge of your insert )
try it out and see how well it works for you
Mate, thanks for that! I fully intend on running that to see how it goes.
Thank you so much for sharing. Makes sense with the magnet too. Thanks for the explanation as to way - I love to know the reasons / logic behind stuff.
@@halheavyduty your more then welcome
have you poured juice on the machine red cooling water🤣🤣🤣🤣
I’ve been accused of grinding up the Pink Panther in a previous video… and now the bloody song is stuck in my head every time I fill the coolant tank up 🤣
wonderful video, but I still think KONG looks more like John Holmes......
Indeed it does…
Indeed it does 🤣
The size of those chips, bit of salt and vinegar…….sorted 🤭
The dynamic force that the drill rod and drill bit connectors are going to face must be off the chart, how did you guys do any stress analysis to determine materials and sizings ? 😮
I’ve got the exact number somewhere… but let’s just say it’s bloody astronomical.
How the rig doesn’t just start spinning and take off is beyond me 🤣
facinating, what type of thread is that?
It’s a custom one we designed in house. A large RC drill rod thread.
@@halheavyduty cool, great job!
Cheers mate!
Is this proto thread a 29 degree acme? I recently got a left hand and right hand external 4 tpi acme tools and inserts from kenametel they work a treat on 4 hundred serious stainless. Even found i could plunge cut with them . Cheers great channel and content well done.
Thanks for the kind feedback mate! Appreciate it.
So its still a 60 degree thread, just not API. It’s a different taper angle and the inserts are considerably larger - as it’s a 3 TPI thread.
I bloody wish there was a 3TPI standard insert we could buy off the shelf.
The crazy size of the thread is because it’s an RC rod, is it also has an inner tube that gets inserted up the centre.
Do you grind the threading inserts in house?
We had to for this job. For the production run we will get them properly done, or likely buy a proper machine to do it in house.
Really really hard to find people to grind tooling these days for odd custom threads (here at least)
That’s insane how big that thread is my biggest thread was a m26 x2.0 mm pitch
The billet is 318mm, and the base of the pin is just over 11”
@@halheavyduty god damn my biggest part I had turned was like 100mm
@@halheavyduty also that sound was amazing and those two shop buddies are so cute
Totally. Love the sound of a lathe spinning away.
The dogs are hilarious. Never a dull moment with them around
@@halheavydutythe sound of the lathe being under load not much better to hear a tool and a machine working
why the step cut?
We were just altering the thread to cut it deeper. When you adjust the tool wear in the Fanuc programming the way it’s set up, it also adjusts the z axis so it looks like a step cut.
Great question 👊
Great fun! What are your dogs' names?
Penny & Murray (everyone calls him Moooray though). He’s the happiest little dude there is and a little MoooRay of sunshine in the shed.
Most do the dogs we get here are rescue dogs from either the prison or the police. We’ve had about 20 over the years.
Penny is still a liiiiitle cray cray… but we love her. No shed is complete without a good bunch of dogs.
The problem you will face in the future is reproducibility, something not even go/no go standards can identify when it comes to flank angle accuracy. IMHO hand ground tooling will never give you reproducibility required of such a large highly stressed thread. Good tooling suppliers have the ability to make custom ground inserts with close tolerances. Not cheap, I agree but these parts are high value parts and lost production time far outweighs the cost of the custom tooling not to mention your reputation as a supplier. To save wear and tear on the form tooling you might consider roughing out the gullet in steps approximating the final form with standard grooving inserts canted over as required by the helix angle in a similar manner that the lathe steps the down blank prior to finish turning the taper.
Agreed 100%
These are a custom prototype for internal use, and the purpose was to see what they actually look like “in the flesh” before committing to investing in custom carbide.
It’s been an extremely challenging project all round as it’s so far off the charts (compared to standard commercially available options)
Great comment, and I couldn’t agree more. Hand ground inserts suck, and are unsutable for large production runs.
Impossible to replicate parts accurately.