Exactly hahah. Open up to f8 and quadruple your shutter, or f4 and quadruple it again. Might need ND’s to open up further, depending on how fast the shutter can go on that camera.
@@SomeUnremarkableGuy yeah quadruple, so for those who don’t know, f16 to f8 is two stops difference, so then you’d need to bring your shutter from 1/100 to 1/400 to compensate for the aperture change. Good correction about many cameras only going to 1/500. My film camera happens to go to 1/1000 of a sec. So either way, I stand corrected, I guess max I could do is f5.6ish, 1/800ish, asa 100 ish before needing NDs. Thanks for your response! EDIT: my initial comment was assuming a 100 iso film. Obviously you need NDs regardless, if you use a higher speed film and want to shoot wide open on a sunny day
Don’t be under the impression you need an ND for these. I mean … if you must shoot soft f2.8 portraits in direct sunlight but I would argue anyone learning is only gonna do that once (it’s not a good idea because reasons).
In such old cameras the leather strap is usually very dry or moldy. That makes them cut easily and finally the camera ends up on the floor. I recommend that you do a test before going out. If the strap is somewhat worn, it would be good to reinforce it on the inside.
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes!
Years ago, I had a 2.8 (Zeiss lens) which I think was like yours (the 3.5 was always regarded as a little sharper). There are a few tricks when loading this camera - from memory, the film goes Between the rollers - they automatically sense the change in thickness from backing paper only to backing paper plus film. Try to find original loading instructions which, I think, are on line. Also, check the rollers spin freely. A special oil is needed to do this. Also, there is an oil hole next to the crank - again special oil. A good Camera Tech. can assist. Also, try to find an old guy who knows the camera. I found mine about 1993 in a rural town out of Melbourne Australia. I wandered into a camera shop in Melbourne with it. By pure chance the person who owned the shop did his apprenticeship at the Rollei factory in Germany. He checked it over, worked on it for about an hour and didn’t charge me (Thanks Helmut - if you read this). Have fun.
That is the flash sync port on bottom; also, if youll use it, change it from M to X for flash sync. M is for the old bulb flashes and X is for electronic flashes. The X flash can be used with all shutter speeds. To change it from M to X, simply lift the chrome handle (only the chrome handle) and transfer it on the other side. More so, this lever - if you pull it down - acts as the delayed action release or commonly known as self timer. Buy some close up filters like Rolleinars (Rolleinar I, II, and III; each step-up is a level up in how close can you get to your subject. This one uses Bay III i believe. Rolleinars are for close up shots and fixes the issue of Rolleiflexes having a limited minimum distance of 1 meter or 3 feet.
When I got my Rolleiflex 2.8 D (Zeiss Planar) from someone on Uncle Henry’s (local Classifieds listings) it was $260, no case either. But it also came with a Nikon FM, so I didn’t do too bad, I figure. It’s been a privilege to shoot with an old glory like that.
I have a 2.8 c xenotar which is a fantastic camera and lens. Some things I’d consider when using it -buy the close up lenses/rolleinar set. If you want to shoot portraits they’re incredibly useful and easy to put on. These adapters extend the range of the camera so much. -invest in a bright screen. The ground glass tends to vignette especially in low light. Buying a Maxwell screen or any other brand with fresnel glass can substantially increase the visibility of the subject when you’re composing and finding focus. -have fun meeting people! This camera attracts a lot of eyeballs and it’s a great conversation starter. -you’re pointing at the flash sync port on the bottom right. Enjoy
Sunny 16 does not mean you have to shoot at f16 in bright sunlight. It’s just a starting point or reference point. If you have iso 100 film and apply sunny 16 you would start at f16 at 1/100. But if you want to shoot at say f8, then you simply adjust shutter speed by two stops to 400 and so on…
As long as the leather itself is intact, restitching is quite an easy "operation". The case of my Yashica Mat 124 G once completely disintegrated on a photowalk and the camera dropped to the floor (with the strap attached to the case). At some point I restitched all of my vintage camera cases - I was too afraid that the same thing could happen again. To fix the case you'll just need a sturdy string, two needles (attached at both ends) and a little patience - I learned the technique after watching some saddler tutorials on YT. If I was living in the US I'd suggest sending me the case and I'd be happy to fix it for you :) P.S. My film choice would be some slow B/W like Ilford Pan F (I know, not very popular but I like it for it's almost non-existing gain, lower contrast and soft look). Slow film because I'm really looking forward to see pictures shot wide open with this amazing lens.
1:51 for corners and just overall detailing, may I suggest a soft-bristle toothbrush? It's easy and effective for those hard to reach places. Plus it looked like you were going ham with that swab
If the front of the case gave way as easily as it appears, I'd be careful with that strap. Old leather isn't very trustworthy. You can pick up a replacement strap online for not a whole lot of money and it will serve you sell for many years. When I bought my Rollei, it did come with a really clean leather case but didn't include a strap so I had to pick one up.
i managed to fine a Chinese version of one of these at a vintage shop. i bought it but im still yet to use it cant wait to see what yours is like ! keep up the good work man love the content
Just shot a few last shots of a roll with my rolleicord and sat down on the couch and saw that you uploaded this. What a dream of a camera you have there!! Indeed one of the most beautiful cameras ever made. But yea for sure a challenge to compose for 6x6.
The Rolliflex 3.5 has a light meter. One of my favorite cameras to use I took it out today. You could use the KEKS 3m cold shoe adapter on the side of the focusing knob.
I have shot my Rolleiflex 75 T för a few years and its always been one of my favorite cameras to shoot. Its the most fun and easiest camera to shoot street with and do it with style on a mediumformat as well!. Also its like no other camera out theer when it comes to engaging people in conversations. Never got a bad reaction from people when they have noticed me taking their photograph either. Its always just "what a cool camera"" its beautiful!" etc. I think your gonna love that aspect :D Id reccomend getting the rolinaar 1 and maybe two as well. The closeup kits. They are a little pricey for the F2,8 models i think and abit harder to find , at least here in sweden. But im sure tons are on ebay :) Its such a nice little edition and makes a difference when you cannot replace the lens. make sure you get the right "Bay" mount version, for the F3,5 rolleiflexes its the Bay 1, you might have to look for Bay 2 or 3 i reckon . Hope you post an update from a street session later on and your thoughts after using it for a while. /Martin.
I just picked up a super ricohflex for a vet who purchased it in Japan when he was there a while back it's no rolliflex but it's still a nice decent tlr and it comes with original box and leather case and manuals it's looks like it was shot for a roll then put back in the box an left alone I'm excited to get it should be here tomorrow afternoon and I can't wait to get out and shoot with it. That light meter is awesome I need to know where to get one. But throw up the part 2
If you want to up your composition game in a new format, I find the app called Viewfinder really good. Can store a ton of format and lens combos. Obviously, it’s not the same as shooting film, but it’s the camera I’m always carrying and helps a ton to get your eye in for the format.
The Rolleiflex is a great find. I bought a Yashica A from EBay couple of years ago and it has the same PC flash port. You can take great flash photos as well.
My... Few tips for shooting the TLR: hardest part of me is the reversed image left to right. I get over this by A) shooting on a tripod where I have better control or B) heavily using the strap to stabilize myself, observe the movements, make the corrections, and take the exposure.
The cases are nice but don’t rely on the leather strap, the leather usually is compromised because they are so old. The strap on my Leice III leather case gave way on the London Underground and I was lucky it fell on the seat not the floor.
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes!
What helped me start composing square format was a suggestion from another UA-camr - think of the shot as an album cover. From there was able to gain some momentum
People do not run from a Rollie , incidentally ... you will have people approach you , and they love the Rollei's. I have MX-EVS Tessar 75mm 3.5 ( crackerjack sharp ) , and my new ( new to me ) WIDE ROLLEI 55mm F4 , that one has been CLAD by HARRY FLEENOR at Oceanside Camera , of California. Harry is the God of Rollei he will do amazing careful work. Rollei rules 🥳♥
Hey boss! I had a question regarding the Bessa R2A light meter. I got one recently and I read/noticed since its inserted diagonally across the shutter element that it weights toward bottom left, but I find it so hard to get accurate readings when trying to expose for something like a tiny sliver of light in an alleyway with such a fine margin. Is there an exact point to use as reference in the rangefinder, or is it better to carry an external light meter for situations like that and switch to full manual. Also love the Minji shirt lol
You might have 2.8 " C " or a " D " model , the C had high count 10 blade apertures , very lovely as my MX-EVS 75mm 3.5 has this ...and the images are , oh simply magic. Just surreal , and of their own nothing captures like a ROLLEI ♥
You could talk to someone who does leatherwork and get that case fixed. :3 I've had a case where the stitches fell apart and I fixed it myself, but it was a loooot of work and I would gladly pay someone to get that done right.
Do not rely on old/vintage leather straps. I had a 2.8F Planar. Took it to Rio. Walking around with it on my shoulder and the strap just snapped. The leather was decayed or eroded beneath the surface, i guess, and maybe the humidity had something to do with it. Whatever. The leather just broke, without any additional weight on it. Luckily, i felt the camera slip and i caught it against my body..... Did you just say that "sunny 16" means you always shoot at f16? I never relied on it, but i always assumed it meant that that was your *starting point* for *recalculating* where you want to shoot. Meaning that if you want to shoot at f4, you just count your shutter speed up from the film speed. It doesn't lock you into shooting at f16. Did i misunderstand you?
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes! Yeah also cannot tell if he is only ever using f16 when sun is out, or just his English maybe isn't super hot (Americans don't speak English, they use a variant of it). Guy makes good content partly because he's new, doesn't know everything but is learning fast and sharing his mistakes, we all made them back at the beginning and still make them today lol
Pro tip: do NOT use the strap that came with the Rolleiflex as they have a nasty habit of breaking. You can either attach peak design anchors or get a pair of Rollei-specific alligator clips.
I didn’t realize you had bought the Rollei last video 😅. But that case definitely looks easily fixable if you have a needle and some line and it seems like most of the thread ripped and not the leather itself. But know that you don’t need to shoot at f16 for sunny 16, and if it’s cloudy you can use f8 too, and spotty clouds f12ish. Film has very good exposure latitude nowadays and should be able to compensate for a stop or two more/less of light anyways. I would say go out and shoot with no light meter because after 5 or 6 rolls of the same iso film you should be able to meter with your eyes pretty easily unless your doing portraiture or other technical stuff
I think a good leather worker could re-stitch your rolleiflex case if you can find someone. A flashgun bracket would give you a carry handle for your keks meter.
The stitching is obviously rotten, or it would not have given up so easily. Good that the leather held up - that's the main thing. But the stitching on the strap could give out, as someone says, below. What a beautiful camera.
check it at lower shutter speeds and see if the shutter sticks. You might need a CLA. If youre in SoCal Phong at Canada Camera does CLAs for a reasonable price. Hes in Montebello
I got into film photography three months ago and I was having a hard time deciding between the Hass and a TLR RolleiFlex. After three months of shooting with my 500c, I have to say that I still want a TLR. I think it would be a little more discrete and more suited for the candid photos I like taking. You bust out the Hassy and everyone feels obligated to pose and look more robotic. JS...
For street TLR can't be beat! You'll also get folk asking you about it all day long, usually older guys who used them professionally back in the day, if your really lucky, your TLR collection will attract more TLr as said older gents gave you their camera to you because your a good home for it 😊
A good cobbler or saddle maker can easily repair that case. If you could rip it open that easily the stitching had probably rotted. The reason it is in such good condition is because its been kept in the case so look after it too.
Ah, the curse of being on the other side of the world! As has already been pointed out the socket you asked about is for flash sync and is called a PC, for Prontor-Compur. Prontor and Compur were two types of mechanical shutter, made by now defunct companies.Not sure if yours does, but some Rolleiflexes used the Compur shutter. Someone more knowledgeable than me will know the answer! X is Xenon, or electronic flash, for more modern flashes and fires when the shutter opens, and M is for Medium (and I think there are S, M, ME, F, FP, and V) for the old flash bulbs. The contacts close about 20 milliseconds before the shutter fires, to allow for the fire to spread through the bulb as the shutter opens. The other varieties are for different timings. If you *are* going to connect a flash you *should* be safe with a modern electronic flash, as they typically have a trigger voltage around 5 volts, whereas some older ones present the full capacitor voltage, which can exceed 250 volts! My advice is to check first! Sorry about running off at the keyboard. I started with flash bulbs and far prefer the electronic ones. You had to wait for the old bulbs to cool before you removed them - or have asbestos fingers. That's a great find, along with the Leica, and I'm very happy they've gone to someone who appreciates them and will use them. Now to see if my friend will let me try his late father's Rolleicord (little sibling to the 'flex') and Leica III. These are just sitting in a box! One can always hope.
Awesome find! But a word of advise: please, please chance the leather neckstrap for something new. After all those decades, that strap can be very weak and break on you without warning...
You can re-stitch, just get the right sewing kit , needles and proper wax thread and follow the holes that are there. Watch out for the old leather straps, they tend to be brittle, get a new strap if possible.
So sunny 16 does not mean you have to shoot at f16. You can use that as a starting point for your exposure settings. Say you are shooting 100 iso film and it is sunny outside, with sunny 16 you would shoot with the shutter speed closest to your film speed, which is 125 and of course f16 aperture. However if you want to shoot at a lower aperture, you simply need to increase your shutter speed. If you want to shoot at f11, which is one stop lower than f16, you would simply need to increase your shutter speed one stop to 250. This would result in the same amount of light exposure as f16 at 125.
I'm sure you found out by now, but that's a PC socket for a flash gun or strobe before they had hot shoes on the camera. You had to use a cord. Enjoy!!
In Japan, we also have second-hand shops and "recycle shops", but since smartphones and Internet helps stores check goods and prices, it is almost impossible to buy Rolleiflex for 50 dollars. How is it possible in America? Stores don't really check goods before selling them in stores??
Don't trust the neck strap. Also get some 90% isopropyl alcohol and some distilled water and cotton Q tips to clean lenses. Those wipes could be prone to scratching. Two q tips with ISO, then two with distilled water then two with nothing to dry the water off. Cool camera and video.
Drop a like for part 2! Also comment what film you want me to shoot in the Rollei 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Flash connector is correct. Shutter button is on right & flash connector is on left.
Did you buy Rolleiflex 2.8D for $49.99?
FUJIFILM Neopan 100 Acros II Black and White
FUJIFILM Neopan 100 Acros II Black and White
You do make good video, but why make the music so much louder then the speak !?
The thing on the bottom might be for an intervalometer idk
Folks are aware that you don't have to shoot at f16 to use the sunny 16 rule, yes??
When he said that, I almost spit out my drink
Exactly hahah. Open up to f8 and quadruple your shutter, or f4 and quadruple it again. Might need ND’s to open up further, depending on how fast the shutter can go on that camera.
@@stevenkralovec quadruple? you are aware that max top speed on these cameras are 1/500sec. Some TLR cameras are even slower. ND filter is a must.
@@SomeUnremarkableGuy yeah quadruple, so for those who don’t know, f16 to f8 is two stops difference, so then you’d need to bring your shutter from 1/100 to 1/400 to compensate for the aperture change. Good correction about many cameras only going to 1/500. My film camera happens to go to 1/1000 of a sec. So either way, I stand corrected, I guess max I could do is f5.6ish, 1/800ish, asa 100 ish before needing NDs. Thanks for your response!
EDIT: my initial comment was assuming a 100 iso film. Obviously you need NDs regardless, if you use a higher speed film and want to shoot wide open on a sunny day
Don’t be under the impression you need an ND for these. I mean … if you must shoot soft f2.8 portraits in direct sunlight but I would argue anyone learning is only gonna do that once (it’s not a good idea because reasons).
I would take the case to a shoe repair store.
Yeah l, or a a local leather maker
In such old cameras the leather strap is usually very dry or moldy. That makes them cut easily and finally the camera ends up on the floor. I recommend that you do a test before going out. If the strap is somewhat worn, it would be good to reinforce it on the inside.
You can still get the case repaired. I'm still jealous! After this video I want to go out and play with my Yashica mat 124.
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes!
20 mins with some thread.
Years ago, I had a 2.8 (Zeiss lens) which I think was like yours (the 3.5 was always regarded as a little sharper). There are a few tricks when loading this camera - from memory, the film goes Between the rollers - they automatically sense the change in thickness from backing paper only to backing paper plus film. Try to find original loading instructions which, I think, are on line.
Also, check the rollers spin freely. A special oil is needed to do this. Also, there is an oil hole next to the crank - again special oil. A good Camera Tech. can assist. Also, try to find an old guy who knows the camera.
I found mine about 1993 in a rural town out of Melbourne Australia. I wandered into a camera shop in Melbourne with it. By pure chance the person who owned the shop did his apprenticeship at the Rollei factory in Germany. He checked it over, worked on it for about an hour and didn’t charge me (Thanks Helmut - if you read this).
Have fun.
That is the flash sync port on bottom; also, if youll use it, change it from M to X for flash sync. M is for the old bulb flashes and X is for electronic flashes. The X flash can be used with all shutter speeds. To change it from M to X, simply lift the chrome handle (only the chrome handle) and transfer it on the other side. More so, this lever - if you pull it down - acts as the delayed action release or commonly known as self timer.
Buy some close up filters like Rolleinars (Rolleinar I, II, and III; each step-up is a level up in how close can you get to your subject. This one uses Bay III i believe. Rolleinars are for close up shots and fixes the issue of Rolleiflexes having a limited minimum distance of 1 meter or 3 feet.
When I got my Rolleiflex 2.8 D (Zeiss Planar) from someone on Uncle Henry’s (local Classifieds listings) it was $260, no case either. But it also came with a Nikon FM, so I didn’t do too bad, I figure.
It’s been a privilege to shoot with an old glory like that.
I have a 2.8 c xenotar which is a fantastic camera and lens. Some things I’d consider when using it
-buy the close up lenses/rolleinar set. If you want to shoot portraits they’re incredibly useful and easy to put on. These adapters extend the range of the camera so much.
-invest in a bright screen. The ground glass tends to vignette especially in low light. Buying a Maxwell screen or any other brand with fresnel glass can substantially increase the visibility of the subject when you’re composing and finding focus.
-have fun meeting people! This camera attracts a lot of eyeballs and it’s a great conversation starter.
-you’re pointing at the flash sync port on the bottom right. Enjoy
Sunny 16 does not mean you have to shoot at f16 in bright sunlight. It’s just a starting point or reference point. If you have iso 100 film and apply sunny 16 you would start at f16 at 1/100. But if you want to shoot at say f8, then you simply adjust shutter speed by two stops to 400 and so on…
Is KJ an LA based tuber? TBF they don’t have weather so all is forgiven.
@@mynewcolour😂
As long as the leather itself is intact, restitching is quite an easy "operation". The case of my Yashica Mat 124 G once completely disintegrated on a photowalk and the camera dropped to the floor (with the strap attached to the case). At some point I restitched all of my vintage camera cases - I was too afraid that the same thing could happen again. To fix the case you'll just need a sturdy string, two needles (attached at both ends) and a little patience - I learned the technique after watching some saddler tutorials on YT. If I was living in the US I'd suggest sending me the case and I'd be happy to fix it for you :)
P.S. My film choice would be some slow B/W like Ilford Pan F (I know, not very popular but I like it for it's almost non-existing gain, lower contrast and soft look). Slow film because I'm really looking forward to see pictures shot wide open with this amazing lens.
waiting for next video I'm so excited to see the results love your content keep it up ❤
If he plans on keeping his lens coating on the front element, he needs to learn how to use lens cleaning paper.
Just getting into film photography and just wanted to say your videos have been a fun watch and definitely help me learn the fun stuff.
7:19 should be a flash sync port controlled by that M/X switch up top. Unless you have flash bulbs, you’ll want X for eleXtronic? Flash 😺
I’ll dm you a manual link 😺
1:51 for corners and just overall detailing, may I suggest a soft-bristle toothbrush? It's easy and effective for those hard to reach places. Plus it looked like you were going ham with that swab
Omg, I’ve been looking for a rollei 2.8. Love that camera
If the front of the case gave way as easily as it appears, I'd be careful with that strap. Old leather isn't very trustworthy. You can pick up a replacement strap online for not a whole lot of money and it will serve you sell for many years. When I bought my Rollei, it did come with a really clean leather case but didn't include a strap so I had to pick one up.
Crazy Find. Just a tip use a filter on that lens. Those early lenses doesn't have coatings like modern lenses hence its easier to scratch. Enjoy!
i managed to fine a Chinese version of one of these at a vintage shop. i bought it but im still yet to use it cant wait to see what yours is like ! keep up the good work man love the content
I’m guessing it says 海鸥 on the front
@@danielxu4076 errrm I can’t read Chinese but the symbols don’t look the same as what you have put
@@SamMcDermottMedia it’s all good, it’s just that that brand is the most dominant tlr manufacturers in china so I just guessed
Just shot a few last shots of a roll with my rolleicord and sat down on the couch and saw that you uploaded this. What a dream of a camera you have there!! Indeed one of the most beautiful cameras ever made. But yea for sure a challenge to compose for 6x6.
Damn that NJ Minji t-shirt so hard bruh 😤
A tip, i clean the inside of the lens of my TLR by opening the back, setting the shutter to bulb and opening the shutter until I’m done cleaning!
Case and Hood : this is superb find. 🙏🏻♥
The good thing is you could always sew that case back together
Came from the leica thrifting video, thank you for this part 2 lol
The Rolliflex 3.5 has a light meter. One of my favorite cameras to use I took it out today. You could use the KEKS 3m cold shoe adapter on the side of the focusing knob.
Love that camera
yooo the minji shirt lets go
You can always use a small hand held light meter like the voigtlander VC meter 2.
Sunny 16 doesn't mean you have to shoot at f16.
I have shot my Rolleiflex 75 T för a few years and its always been one of my favorite cameras to shoot. Its the most fun and easiest camera to shoot street with and do it with style on a mediumformat as well!. Also its like no other camera out theer when it comes to engaging people in conversations. Never got a bad reaction from people when they have noticed me taking their photograph either. Its always just "what a cool camera"" its beautiful!" etc. I think your gonna love that aspect :D
Id reccomend getting the rolinaar 1 and maybe two as well. The closeup kits. They are a little pricey for the F2,8 models i think and abit harder to find , at least here in sweden. But im sure tons are on ebay :) Its such a nice little edition and makes a difference when you cannot replace the lens. make sure you get the right "Bay" mount version, for the F3,5 rolleiflexes its the Bay 1, you might have to look for Bay 2 or 3 i reckon . Hope you post an update from a street session later on and your thoughts after using it for a while.
/Martin.
I just picked up a super ricohflex for a vet who purchased it in Japan when he was there a while back it's no rolliflex but it's still a nice decent tlr and it comes with original box and leather case and manuals it's looks like it was shot for a roll then put back in the box an left alone I'm excited to get it should be here tomorrow afternoon and I can't wait to get out and shoot with it. That light meter is awesome I need to know where to get one. But throw up the part 2
If you want to up your composition game in a new format, I find the app called Viewfinder really good. Can store a ton of format and lens combos. Obviously, it’s not the same as shooting film, but it’s the camera I’m always carrying and helps a ton to get your eye in for the format.
The Rolleiflex is a great find. I bought a Yashica A from EBay couple of years ago and it has the same PC flash port. You can take great flash photos as well.
Do the Leica as well, cant wait to see that
My... Few tips for shooting the TLR: hardest part of me is the reversed image left to right. I get over this by A) shooting on a tripod where I have better control or B) heavily using the strap to stabilize myself, observe the movements, make the corrections, and take the exposure.
The cases are nice but don’t rely on the leather strap, the leather usually is compromised because they are so old. The strap on my Leice III leather case gave way on the London Underground and I was lucky it fell on the seat not the floor.
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes!
You can open the case of the Yashica LM (and possibly more models) from both sides, so... muscle memory maybe? 😉
Damn what a nice video, would be amazing te see your collection like this in other videos
you could get/make a coldshue for the camera and fix it too it, could 3d print something that would fir perfectly
That camera is mint !! You scored hard on it. But please... no more "raw dog" references lmao 😁😁😁
its worth a fortune .......f2.8= heaven
What helped me start composing square format was a suggestion from another UA-camr - think of the shot as an album cover. From there was able to gain some momentum
You could probably get the stitching repair at by a cobbler on tack shop.
Get ready for people to stop you on the street to comment on your camera. The Rolleiflex is awesome for street portraits! Enjoy Jonathan.
Can confirm.
People do not run from a Rollie , incidentally ... you will have people approach you , and they love the Rollei's. I have MX-EVS Tessar 75mm 3.5 ( crackerjack sharp ) , and my new ( new to me ) WIDE ROLLEI 55mm F4 , that one has been CLAD by HARRY FLEENOR at Oceanside Camera , of California. Harry is the God of Rollei he will do amazing careful work. Rollei rules 🥳♥
Keks has a stick on cold shoe you can glue to the camera, i did so with my Hasselblad 500c
I’m from the Bay Area too! What thrift store was it?!
What’s the light meter you using?
Hey boss! I had a question regarding the Bessa R2A light meter. I got one recently and I read/noticed since its inserted diagonally across the shutter element that it weights toward bottom left, but I find it so hard to get accurate readings when trying to expose for something like a tiny sliver of light in an alleyway with such a fine margin. Is there an exact point to use as reference in the rangefinder, or is it better to carry an external light meter for situations like that and switch to full manual.
Also love the Minji shirt lol
Your luck is crazy man been thrifting for years and i can’t find a damn thing man wth lol
The port on the front of the camera you were wondering about is the PC flash sync port. Use it with a sync cable to fire a flash. :)
That little thing that you don’t know what it is for? Is the synchronized flash port!
The port on the lower right corner (your left) looks like a port for a sync cord.
I dig your Irezumi sleeve
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 thank you!
You might have 2.8 " C " or a " D " model , the C had high count 10 blade apertures , very lovely as my MX-EVS 75mm 3.5 has this ...and the images are , oh simply magic. Just surreal , and of their own nothing captures like a ROLLEI ♥
You could talk to someone who does leatherwork and get that case fixed. :3 I've had a case where the stitches fell apart and I fixed it myself, but it was a loooot of work and I would gladly pay someone to get that done right.
Do not rely on old/vintage leather straps. I had a 2.8F Planar. Took it to Rio. Walking around with it on my shoulder and the strap just snapped. The leather was decayed or eroded beneath the surface, i guess, and maybe the humidity had something to do with it. Whatever. The leather just broke, without any additional weight on it. Luckily, i felt the camera slip and i caught it against my body..... Did you just say that "sunny 16" means you always shoot at f16? I never relied on it, but i always assumed it meant that that was your *starting point* for *recalculating* where you want to shoot. Meaning that if you want to shoot at f4, you just count your shutter speed up from the film speed. It doesn't lock you into shooting at f16. Did i misunderstand you?
I just had a case repaired for a 6x9 folder, thread rotten decades back and strap dried out and disintegrated. Just had it repaired in Vietnam, took apart and re stitched all the damaged areas , made a new strap from oak bark leather and rivetted and stitched it onto the case. Even dyed the strap to match the case! Cost £9. Is it as good as new, no, does it work well and look absolutely spot on for a 70 year old camera case that gets very regular use still in 2024, yes!
Yeah also cannot tell if he is only ever using f16 when sun is out, or just his English maybe isn't super hot (Americans don't speak English, they use a variant of it). Guy makes good content partly because he's new, doesn't know everything but is learning fast and sharing his mistakes, we all made them back at the beginning and still make them today lol
Pro tip: do NOT use the strap that came with the Rolleiflex as they have a nasty habit of breaking. You can either attach peak design anchors or get a pair of Rollei-specific alligator clips.
Team Minji 😜
I didn’t realize you had bought the Rollei last video 😅. But that case definitely looks easily fixable if you have a needle and some line and it seems like most of the thread ripped and not the leather itself. But know that you don’t need to shoot at f16 for sunny 16, and if it’s cloudy you can use f8 too, and spotty clouds f12ish. Film has very good exposure latitude nowadays and should be able to compensate for a stop or two more/less of light anyways. I would say go out and shoot with no light meter because after 5 or 6 rolls of the same iso film you should be able to meter with your eyes pretty easily unless your doing portraiture or other technical stuff
my kneck strap broke ...after 60yrs of sweat....
I think a good leather worker could re-stitch your rolleiflex case if you can find someone. A flashgun bracket would give you a carry handle for your keks meter.
Why dont use phone lightmeter?
The stitching is obviously rotten, or it would not have given up so easily. Good that the leather held up - that's the main thing. But the stitching on the strap could give out, as someone says, below. What a beautiful camera.
check it at lower shutter speeds and see if the shutter sticks. You might need a CLA. If youre in SoCal Phong at Canada Camera does CLAs for a reasonable price. Hes in Montebello
It would be cool to see you shooting 6x6 vs 35mm in part 2
how do u approach using shoe mount meters, do u compensate + and - for different scenes?
Boy oh boy
4:13 😹😅🤷♂️ we all make mistakes, and honestly, it’s just a (very nice) case…
I got into film photography three months ago and I was having a hard time deciding between the Hass and a TLR RolleiFlex. After three months of shooting with my 500c, I have to say that I still want a TLR. I think it would be a little more discrete and more suited for the candid photos I like taking. You bust out the Hassy and everyone feels obligated to pose and look more robotic. JS...
For street TLR can't be beat! You'll also get folk asking you about it all day long, usually older guys who used them professionally back in the day, if your really lucky, your TLR collection will attract more TLr as said older gents gave you their camera to you because your a good home for it 😊
Left is Right, Right is left if that makes sense when you are trying to frame your subject. Have fun with it.
the bottom thing is PC sync, for synching flash
A good cobbler or saddle maker can easily repair that case. If you could rip it open that easily the stitching had probably rotted. The reason it is in such good condition is because its been kept in the case so look after it too.
BRO REVENI LABS LIGHT METER!! I shoot with a Rollie most of the time but Rollie T 3.5 still gorgeous, but reveni lab light metre is awesome
I thought you were Minolta gang. Now you are switched?
I feel like the next 6 months your channel is going to be all about your trift and these cameras.
Man I still feel jealousy to you😮 Great video!
Take it over to a cobbler and see if they can help with the case.
Nice ‘ next on Leica Q review soon bro ..
Ah, the curse of being on the other side of the world! As has already been pointed out the socket you asked about is for flash sync and is called a PC, for Prontor-Compur. Prontor and Compur were two types of mechanical shutter, made by now defunct companies.Not sure if yours does, but some Rolleiflexes used the Compur shutter. Someone more knowledgeable than me will know the answer!
X is Xenon, or electronic flash, for more modern flashes and fires when the shutter opens, and M is for Medium (and I think there are S, M, ME, F, FP, and V) for the old flash bulbs. The contacts close about 20 milliseconds before the shutter fires, to allow for the fire to spread through the bulb as the shutter opens. The other varieties are for different timings.
If you *are* going to connect a flash you *should* be safe with a modern electronic flash, as they typically have a trigger voltage around 5 volts, whereas some older ones present the full capacitor voltage, which can exceed 250 volts! My advice is to check first!
Sorry about running off at the keyboard. I started with flash bulbs and far prefer the electronic ones. You had to wait for the old bulbs to cool before you removed them - or have asbestos fingers.
That's a great find, along with the Leica, and I'm very happy they've gone to someone who appreciates them and will use them. Now to see if my friend will let me try his late father's Rolleicord (little sibling to the 'flex') and Leica III. These are just sitting in a box! One can always hope.
“M” flash sync stands for Magnesium, the wire filament inside the flash bulb.
@@donhagner4845 I think the 'M' is for Medium, and refers to the delay between igniting the flash and opening the shutter.
Aren't there 6x4,5 masks for these?
I use a light meter app on my phone.
You can definitely get the case stitched up. Not a huge mistake by any means.
Awesome find! But a word of advise: please, please chance the leather neckstrap for something new. After all those decades, that strap can be very weak and break on you without warning...
That reflective meter is going to be a pain in the butt. Just use a proper incident meter an take a shadow reading every now and again.
Just superglue a cold shoe to the side for the meter 😂
I could fix the stitching for you, doesn’t seem too hard to take care of
You can re-stitch, just get the right sewing kit , needles and proper wax thread and follow the holes that are there. Watch out for the old leather straps, they tend to be brittle, get a new strap if possible.
Why do people blur the serial number on a camera?
Glue it back together. No problem.
So sunny 16 does not mean you have to shoot at f16. You can use that as a starting point for your exposure settings. Say you are shooting 100 iso film and it is sunny outside, with sunny 16 you would shoot with the shutter speed closest to your film speed, which is 125 and of course f16 aperture. However if you want to shoot at a lower aperture, you simply need to increase your shutter speed. If you want to shoot at f11, which is one stop lower than f16, you would simply need to increase your shutter speed one stop to 250. This would result in the same amount of light exposure as f16 at 125.
I'm sure you found out by now, but that's a PC socket for a flash gun or strobe before they had hot shoes on the camera. You had to use a cord. Enjoy!!
In Japan, we also have second-hand shops and "recycle shops", but since smartphones and Internet helps stores check goods and prices, it is almost impossible to buy Rolleiflex for 50 dollars. How is it possible in America? Stores don't really check goods before selling them in stores??
You can repair the case. If you keep it, you should.
im here for the case shame :D
Honestly wasn't sure what mistake was being referred to in the beginning. Guess I forgot.
Easy to re-stich
Lucky man.
Don't trust the neck strap. Also get some 90% isopropyl alcohol and some distilled water and cotton Q tips to clean lenses. Those wipes could be prone to scratching. Two q tips with ISO, then two with distilled water then two with nothing to dry the water off. Cool camera and video.