If you’re going to tighten the shifter linkage, you need to also check the connection at the transmission! That pivot is an expensive fix on the road, the outer and inner primary has to come off.
I have built Triumph and Norton motorcycles sincpe the sixties. I was riding my 93 EVO FXRS-CONV and I went to start it, dead. I knew right away what it was, lose battery terminals. Sometimes you forget to check the most simplest and important things. Good video good reminder.
Thanks for your comment! I have a soft spot for FXRs… the first street bike I rode was my dad’s 1984 FXRS that I rode to high school and bought later in my teens from him. I also had a 1992 FXR. Looking at another 84 right now that still has the original enclosed chain! FXRs for Life!
If you are fortunate to still have anantique Harley check everything. Exhaust clamps handle bar risers . I own a 1974 xlch. I bought in 1987. With any machine keep a schedule maintenance routine before the ride and after the ride.
Your stuff is short and informative and spot on. You got my attention, definitely A-list. I can't believe the attention that my FXRS-CONV is getting. The interesting thing is I check my oil level, front air suspension pressure, saddle bags, tires and a general walk around every time I go out. The battery is right there beside the oil tank. Never considered even checking it. Everyone wants to buy this bike, someone even tried to steal it. Keep posting, you've got something to say.
2nd bonus from a seasoned rider.. Check your Rear exhaust clamp bracket that ties your Y pipe to you transmission. If its lose, or broke..Your Y pipe will crack.
Hey CM, this was a great little video with no time-wasting BS. Much appreciated. Allow me to add one very important item. On the shifter linkage, the shifter shaft arm is very important to check and tighten. On the early twin cam models you can't remove/replace the arm if it's stripped without removing the primary chain case. But even worse, if the shaft becomes worn because of looseness, you're looking at transmission work. So while you're checking the front of the assembly, with the same hex key you can check and tighten the shift shaft arm.
@@stizzoforizzo898 you are correct and I say this in my post. What I go on to say is that you can’t remove/replace the arm without removing the primary. So check it and tighten it when indicated and you won’t have this heartache.
When you're checking the shifter linkage you need to check the shifter arm coming off of the trans. If it strips out on the shaft you will have to pull the inner primary off to replace it which is a pain in the ass
yes indeed you are correct sir! I have this noted in another video. It is often overlooked and sometimes tightening isn’t possible without replacement of the old bolt, as it get a “notch” worn into it and prevents it from turning in, so as to make difficult to tighten. I’ve seen them worn so bad the shift shaft need replacement! and that then requires transmission disassembly. Thanks for checking out my video!
I would add to check the linkage bolt and nut from the shifter arm to the linkage. A buddy had his fail on him while on a road trip. He didn't check it before he left and didn't think much of the play there. That is until that bolt came flying off while riding and could not shift anymore. Luckily he had something to quick fix it until he could get the proper bolt and nut for it.
This literally happened to me yesterday... Luckily, the bolt was hanging on by a literal thread, but I must have missed the loctite, the last time I was in there ....
always check your primary chain make sure that block did not come loose like mine was two Phillips screws holding the ratchet part we're about to fall out my chain was loose somebody replaced the tensioner block and didn't loctite the two Phillips screws
newer big twins have the auto tension adjuster. and yes older ones need some attention time to time. The real solution is a good preventative approach for your bike. I was just touching on some of the more common issues I’ve seen that even a person who isn’t that mechanically inclined can do
The other problem with dresser shifters is the box shifter arm. If left loose the wear the splined shaft and can’t be tightened up. Then to fix the splined shaft the box has to be pulled apart. Been there done that lol. On my 91 flhs
Thanks for your comment! 👍🏼 the list is definitely not intended to cover all things, just pointing to a couple quick checks that I see that are overlooked regularly and can save riders some money. Thanks again, I appreciate your input
Truer words were never spoken! Thank you for you additional tip! With the benefit of hindsight this should have been part of my introduction … kinda be like… “let me start by telling you about the necessary use of loctite “! Thanks Paul! Jeff
I do include this in another video. Thanks that is also one of some others. These are some what common and a video about tightening everything seemed pointless
Same for Indian my shifter came off vibration. Took two different wrenches. I had none , also the shifter must be reattached in a certain position. I found a rock and jently tapped it back on.I could only get 1,N,2nd gear. Drove 30 miles in 2nd gear going 40mph all the way to Indian they fixed it on the spot no waiting 25min later everything great. I check that shifter every week
Aluminum Shifter splines will strip out on steel shift shift and can't get off with out cutting in too and by then shifter shaft seal is leaking $20 Shifter and shift seal turns in to $500 inner and outer primary cover,clutch & compensator,starter removal on 5 speed twin cam 06 and back except 1 with the 6 speed introduced.
If the inside shifter mechanism bolt falls out, your entire shifter and the shaft will fall out. Not fun. You can shift the gears by hand using the rod back to the transmission. Don’t ask me how I know this.... but when I bought the parts in Sioux Falls after riding across South Dakota the parts dude told me I was the fifth one that week that had come in looking for those parts.. Have red loctited that MoFo on every other Touring HD I have owned. Just did my new Electra Glide yesterday. Read it. Learn it. Live it.
Hi CM. I would like to suggest that checking sparks for tightness could be on your list. The torque on my 2009 Screamin Eagle dresser is 12-18 ft lbs. Great Video CAHD Biker
My WG negative comes loose, bike starts first crank, then it gets a little harder to start...weebit at a time, until eventually there's a pop and no juice Put 4 complete turns on the negative......back to normal
hi: i have a 1994 harley davidson ultra classic electric glide. lately i have noticed some oil residue on my rear cylinder fins around my exhaust port? can you tell me what might be causing it? i'm hoping you will say just a casket leaking. i dont see anything coming out the exhaust pipe any oil or smoke.
Couple things. There should not be any amount of oil present in this location. Likely culprit here is the o-rings on the top of the pushrod tubes. Get a flashlight to help see up at the tops of the tubes. It could also be a rockerbox leak.
yeah I use it, and recommend it on most the 1/4” hardware. careful with red, i’ve seen it overused when applying more is not always better, and not on smaller fasteners… that’s a no-no. I believe the 262 red tells users what size fasteners for use with.
those ones with the jankie strap and 7/16 nut!? those are ridiculous! they get stretched out to boot and that make them worse! you can add a spacer so you don’t run out of threads when trying to tighten. or get a new one once they are that sacked
@@CrackerJackMechanic i have a 07 rkclassic n 2000 ultra my rkc started shaking rubbing while riding I have to diagnose asap fall riding coming the rubbing etc just started im alittle worried
Check them motor mounts too ! A lot of People are blaming them being loose for the "death wobble" that some have experienced , I've been riding Harleys (and at least a half dozen other brands) for almost 60 years now and never experienced it but loose rubber mounts could contribute to such a thing , thanks for a great video...
Yes. Motor mounts coming loose will cause serious issues. I have found a few while test riding motorcycles… the problem presents different ways with different machines
Early 60’s--Friday night-four of us heading to wasaga-one guy looses all 4 motor bolts--other three take out one bolt each--continue ride with three motor bolts in each bike,-carry on like it was just another day in the life of a Harley rider--I’m 82 and the only one left of that bunch,-got a softail now and still get out for a putt once in a while,-i just like to make shure my nuts are tight--ktssu--p--
THE THREE THINGS YOU NEED TO TIGHTEN..... WHEN RIDING AT 45MPH 1 YOUR HARLEY BADGE BELT..... 2 YOUR HARLEY BANDANNA .... 3 YOUR HARLEY TASSLED WAIST COAT....
Absolutely. And I use an INSULATED 10mm flat ratchet from Harbor Freight. We're talking battery terminals here. Also, the rear axle nut is metric. Don't ask me why, but it is.
@@halnwheels blasphemy. I've removed hundreds of batteries from hd's and have never used an insulated wrench. You don't need it as long as you don't ground the terminals out
Take the ground off first. Then there is no potential difference between the positive post and the frame (“the ground”) because it does not have the ground terminal connected to the battery the frame is no longer the ground
Make some effort and do a Google search. It’s pretty interesting real, there are a lot of different designs. The swingarm allows the rearend of the motorcycle to pivot and works in conjunction with suspension. Keep learning! Keep asking
those are the lock-in type. if the oil level was low after sitting a while and there is no puddle underneath… the engine may have “sumped”, oil is in the low end, start the bike up and let oil return before topping up. or you could end up with an overfilled condition. make sure you are twisting the lock cap into place.
If you’re going to tighten the shifter linkage, you need to also check the connection at the transmission! That pivot is an expensive fix on the road, the outer and inner primary has to come off.
Yes you are correct! I do cover that in another video. Thanks for your comment!! ✌🏼
I have built Triumph and Norton motorcycles sincpe the sixties.
I was riding my 93 EVO FXRS-CONV and I went to start it, dead.
I knew right away what it was, lose battery terminals.
Sometimes you forget to check the most simplest and important things.
Good video good reminder.
Thanks for your comment!
I have a soft spot for FXRs… the first street bike I rode was my dad’s 1984 FXRS that I rode to high school and bought later in my teens from him. I also had a 1992 FXR. Looking at another 84 right now that still has the original enclosed chain! FXRs for Life!
If you are fortunate to still have anantique Harley check everything. Exhaust clamps handle bar risers . I own a 1974 xlch. I bought in 1987. With any machine keep a schedule maintenance routine before the ride and after the ride.
Old Harley’s need more care and attention. Keep the old ones goin!
Your stuff is short and informative and spot on.
You got my attention, definitely A-list.
I can't believe the attention that my FXRS-CONV is getting.
The interesting thing is I check my oil level, front air suspension pressure, saddle bags, tires and a general walk around every time I go out. The battery is right there beside the oil tank.
Never considered even checking it.
Everyone wants to buy this bike, someone even tried to steal it. Keep posting, you've got something to say.
Thank you! I appreciate your kind words. i plan to-do a fun video soon about my favourite motorcycle! all-the-best!! 👍🏼
FYI, the rust you see on the swing arm/tranny mount is called fretting corrosion. it occurs when you have movement between two ferrous metal parts.
Thank you! Always appreciate the correct nomenclature!
@@CrackerJackMechanic Your welcome. I always enjoy learning things and assume other people are the same way.
It’s called rear break dust
@@jacobroberts2976 Wrong. By the way it's brake not break genius.
Right on Crackerjack! Every fall before putting my baby to sleep for winter, I go over every nut and bolt on my 08 Heritage! Peace of mind!
It’s indeed the way! Helps you get a better understanding of the importance of prevention
2nd bonus from a seasoned rider..
Check your Rear exhaust clamp bracket that ties your Y pipe to you transmission. If its lose, or broke..Your Y pipe will crack.
Thanks! Indeed an issue that is often seen on routine inspection!
Hey CM, this was a great little video with no time-wasting BS. Much appreciated. Allow me to add one very important item. On the shifter linkage, the shifter shaft arm is very important to check and tighten. On the early twin cam models you can't remove/replace the arm if it's stripped without removing the primary chain case. But even worse, if the shaft becomes worn because of looseness, you're looking at transmission work. So while you're checking the front of the assembly, with the same hex key you can check and tighten the shift shaft arm.
I do have an older video where I do explain about just that. Thanks for adding this
Actually there is a trick to tighten it without removing primary cover. I saw it on you tube. Look into it.
@@stizzoforizzo898 you are correct and I say this in my post. What I go on to say is that you can’t remove/replace the arm without removing the primary. So check it and tighten it when indicated and you won’t have this heartache.
When you're checking the shifter linkage you need to check the shifter arm coming off of the trans. If it strips out on the shaft you will have to pull the inner primary off to replace it which is a pain in the ass
Very true! It gets mentioned specifically in one of my other videos. Thanks for adding it into the comments! It needs attention too
Another good place to check is the shifter at the trans . That cinch bolt likes to get loose on the splines.
yes indeed you are correct sir! I have this noted in another video. It is often overlooked and sometimes tightening isn’t possible without replacement of the old bolt, as it get a “notch” worn into it and prevents it from turning in, so as to make difficult to tighten. I’ve seen them worn so bad the shift shaft need replacement! and that then requires transmission disassembly.
Thanks for checking out my video!
I would add to check the linkage bolt and nut from the shifter arm to the linkage. A buddy had his fail on him while on a road trip. He didn't check it before he left and didn't think much of the play there. That is until that bolt came flying off while riding and could not shift anymore. Luckily he had something to quick fix it until he could get the proper bolt and nut for it.
Always carry a length of wire, coiled.
Great tip!
Was going to say the same thing ! Check the bolt at the other end of the shifter rod .. that one comes loose the most
This literally happened to me yesterday... Luckily, the bolt was hanging on by a literal thread, but I must have missed the loctite, the last time I was in there ....
Sure screwed up my day. The way you show and explain, i get. Going be long day watching your videos. I sure appreciate it
Thanks for you support! If you have any questions please ask!
Also the shifter lever on transmission shaft
yes indeed! i touch on that specifically in one of my other videos, but yes it is definitely a regular check as well
My bike vibrates everywhere so I use lock tight and check and tighten everything down…
Also make sure tires are inflated properly before you leave…
👍🏼 good tips!
always check your primary chain make sure that block did not come loose like mine was two Phillips screws holding the ratchet part we're about to fall out my chain was loose somebody replaced the tensioner block and didn't loctite the two Phillips screws
newer big twins have the auto tension adjuster. and yes older ones need some attention time to time. The real solution is a good preventative approach for your bike. I was just touching on some of the more common issues I’ve seen that even a person who isn’t that mechanically inclined can do
@@CrackerJackMechanic even better get a manual primary chain tensioner,some of those autos ratchet up and don’t release causing a tight primary chain.
@@christoforospilitsis541 yep, what’s old is new. never had any problems with the old manually adjusted ones
Great job! Thank you
Thank you!
The other problem with dresser shifters is the box shifter arm. If left loose the wear the splined shaft and can’t be tightened up. Then to fix the splined shaft the box has to be pulled apart. Been there done that lol. On my 91 flhs
Surprised we still ride these things are rattling apart all over!!
Kick stand, wheels , handle bars , #4 drain plug
Thanks for your comment! 👍🏼 the list is definitely not intended to cover all things, just pointing to a couple quick checks that I see that are overlooked regularly and can save riders some money. Thanks again, I appreciate your input
Thank you! Much appreciated
💯 you’re welcome! thank you!! 🙏🏼
Cool video quick to the point good tips (basics for any Harley owner) but dude that air filter is filthy clean and oil that bad boy!
🤪 Good eye! I’m sure after all it got done!
I have never owned any Harley that I didn't need to check Every bolt and nut regularly. And Blue Locktite rules.
Truer words were never spoken! Thank you for you additional tip! With the benefit of hindsight this should have been part of my introduction … kinda be like… “let me start by telling you about the necessary use of loctite “! Thanks Paul!
Jeff
You’ve never owned an m8
@@91rickybakerif you can afford one. Thanx JB.😂
Hell yes brother, Blue Loctite ✊🏼
I have seen shift levers fall of. I carry an extra one in my tool bag.
Good planning! ✌🏼
This saved me some time thanks bro
Glad I could help
hey bro..you should include the shifter lever off of the tranny spline behind the inner primary..very important
I do include this in another video. Thanks that is also one of some others. These are some what common and a video about tightening everything seemed pointless
@@johncasor9698 keep up the great work!
Thanks for sharing!!
You’re welcome! I hope you found it useful.
Same for Indian my shifter came off vibration. Took two different wrenches. I had none , also the shifter must be reattached in a certain position. I found a rock and jently tapped it back on.I could only get 1,N,2nd gear. Drove 30 miles in 2nd gear going 40mph all the way to Indian they fixed it on the spot no waiting 25min later everything great. I check that shifter every week
Thanks for adding your story! Nice to hear the dealership took care you you immediately! Ride safe!
Gonna do it today. Thanks.
How much did your ride the last five months… you should likely check again! 🤣👍🏼
Good tips. Thanks. 👍🏽🤠 8/11/23
I appreciate your response! and loctite! use it!!
check the arm on the transmission common problem I had to replace the bolt in mine with a longer one and tighten the piss out of it
yes, i do cover this in another one of my videos. it comes up often and you are correct! tight this now!!
Aluminum Shifter splines will strip out on steel shift shift and can't get off with out cutting in too and by then shifter shaft seal is leaking $20 Shifter and shift seal turns in to $500 inner and outer primary cover,clutch & compensator,starter removal on 5 speed twin cam 06 and back except 1 with the 6 speed introduced.
Great stuff. Appreciate. Ride safe. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks, will do!
If the inside shifter mechanism bolt falls out, your entire shifter and the shaft will fall out. Not fun. You can shift the gears by hand using the rod back to the transmission. Don’t ask me how I know this.... but when I bought the parts in Sioux Falls after riding across South Dakota the parts dude told me I was the fifth one that week that had come in looking for those parts..
Have red loctited that MoFo on every other Touring HD I have owned. Just did my new Electra Glide yesterday. Read it. Learn it. Live it.
🙏🏼
What about Trikes? Anything to look for on those?
I have nothing trike specific, but the battery is a good one to check regardless, they seem to be overlooked most often with check overs.
good stuff!!!
Thank you! 🙏🏼
Hi CM. I would like to suggest that checking sparks for tightness could be on your list. The torque on my 2009 Screamin Eagle dresser is 12-18 ft lbs. Great Video CAHD Biker
Thanks for the tip!
Wow #1 for me .. thanks all tight now
Perfect!
Thank you.
You’re welcome! and thanks for your support!!
My WG negative comes loose, bike starts first crank, then it gets a little harder to start...weebit at a time, until eventually there's a pop and no juice
Put 4 complete turns on the negative......back to normal
Thanks!
hi: i have a 1994 harley davidson ultra classic electric glide. lately i have noticed some oil residue on my rear cylinder fins around my exhaust port? can you tell me what might be causing it? i'm hoping you will say just a casket leaking. i dont see anything coming out the exhaust pipe any oil or smoke.
Couple things. There should not be any amount of oil present in this location. Likely culprit here is the o-rings on the top of the pushrod tubes. Get a flashlight to help see up at the tops of the tubes. It could also be a rockerbox leak.
@@CrackerJackMechanic ok thanks for your help. I'm hoping it's something I can fix
THANK YOU!
Thanks! And you're welcome
How about Blue Loctite?
yeah I use it, and recommend it on most the 1/4” hardware. careful with red, i’ve seen it overused when applying more is not always better, and not on smaller fasteners… that’s a no-no. I believe the 262 red tells users what size fasteners for use with.
My chrome battery cover keeps falling off
those ones with the jankie strap and 7/16 nut!? those are ridiculous! they get stretched out to boot and that make them worse! you can add a spacer so you don’t run out of threads when trying to tighten. or get a new one once they are that sacked
Mine was loose and melted the thin lead where terminal was fastened. How can a repair be made?
Do you have a video how to check spark plug coil pack with it not being on bike ? My Harley-Davidson is the 2010 Limited FLHTK
I have not made a video for this. Thanks
Thx
😊 thank you!
@@CrackerJackMechanic i have a 07 rkclassic n 2000 ultra my rkc started shaking rubbing while riding I have to diagnose asap fall riding coming the rubbing etc just started im alittle worried
Great Video Thank's
Thank you
Check them motor mounts too ! A lot of People are blaming them being loose for the "death wobble" that some have experienced , I've been riding Harleys (and at least a half dozen other brands) for almost 60 years now and never experienced it but loose rubber mounts could contribute to such a thing , thanks for a great video...
Oh yeah , tire pressure too ! Check it before EVERY ride......
I wish more people would do this!
Yes. Motor mounts coming loose will cause serious issues. I have found a few while test riding motorcycles… the problem presents different ways with different machines
Always carry a length of heavy wire, coiled.
Great tip!
Thanks a lot
Glad you found the video of use!
Braided cables or straps relieve stress on battery cables. Loctite always. Pinch bolt on tyranny shift arm.
Great tips too! Thanks
Bingo, just found loose swingarm bolt!!
Good job! Ride safe
I've got a 2003 road king and the front header flange is loose how do I tighten it ?
1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" socket on an extension
@@CrackerJackMechanic Thank you for the reply I've got gorilla strength should I use a Torque wrench ?
I thought this why we have different levels of lock tight?
👍🏼
Thanks
do them again!
Early 60’s--Friday night-four of us heading to wasaga-one guy looses all 4 motor bolts--other three take out one bolt each--continue ride with three motor bolts in each bike,-carry on like it was just another day in the life of a Harley rider--I’m 82 and the only one left of that bunch,-got a softail now and still get out for a putt once in a while,-i just like to make shure my nuts are tight--ktssu--p--
Love this! Great story! and thanks for the share!
I Spent a lot of summers as a kid in Wasaga at my Grandparents in the late 70s and 80s
U didnt say or show where the frist screws are on the bike ??zoom out zoom in maybe..
I’m not sure what you’re talking about.
THE THREE THINGS YOU NEED TO TIGHTEN..... WHEN RIDING AT 45MPH
1 YOUR HARLEY BADGE BELT..... 2 YOUR HARLEY BANDANNA .... 3 YOUR HARLEY TASSLED WAIST COAT....
lol… and your hairdo!
10mm? On a harley?
Absolutely. And I use an INSULATED 10mm flat ratchet from Harbor Freight. We're talking battery terminals here. Also, the rear axle nut is metric. Don't ask me why, but it is.
@@halnwheels blasphemy!
@@halnwheels blasphemy. I've removed hundreds of batteries from hd's and have never used an insulated wrench. You don't need it as long as you don't ground the terminals out
Take the ground off first. Then there is no potential difference between the positive post and the frame (“the ground”) because it does not have the ground terminal connected to the battery the frame is no longer the ground
Right now. ✅️
and do them again now
💯
Thanks Chip! 💯 is a good! 👍🏼
New rider where is swing arm
Make some effort and do a Google search. It’s pretty interesting real, there are a lot of different designs. The swingarm allows the rearend of the motorcycle to pivot and works in conjunction with suspension. Keep learning! Keep asking
You sound like Dan akroid.
Canadian accents eh
@@CrackerJackMechanic WTF, eh?
Harleys are all look and little else . Shame they can’t figure out how to make a good sold bike
Some truth there! They definitely have brand power
Dude!?
Brah!
My bike is blowing out the dip stick 2009 Harley 883 any ideas
those are the lock-in type. if the oil level
was low after sitting a while and there is no puddle underneath… the engine may have “sumped”, oil is in the low end, start the bike up and let oil return before topping up. or you could end up with an overfilled condition.
make sure you are twisting the lock cap into place.
Of course I meant sparkplugs. CAHDBIKER
How did your summer go!?
Good video
Thanks! I appreciate your support
Just found your channel ! The EVO Mechanical is great ! N.W Ga. here >Riding '95 ROAD KING> SUBSCRIBED ALSO !
Thank you! I am still adding videos as I can! And I appreciate your support!