Tenere 700 Clutch plate change - CP2, MT-07
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- After four and a half year and 70.000 km I change the clutch plates on my Tenere 700. This is the video of the work I did and hope it can help someone looking to do the same.
The service manual is not very detailed in some areas so I looked at forums and videos to gather as much info I could before starting.
Since the CP2 engine is the same as on the Yamaha MT-07 there is a lot of information online to look at.
These are the parts I bought for this job.
Friction plates
www.off-the-ro...
Steel plates
www.off-the-ro...
Gasket
www.off-the-ro...
Springs
www.off-the-ro...
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When looking closely the cover was leaking a tiny bit of oil. I got some tips and got the OEM cover gasket which is metal(ish). I cleaned the surfaces with break cleaner and mounted the new gasket dry and clean. Now it works perfect and no leaks. 👍🏻
Other learnings from this:
- Do not use a sharp cutter to scrape the gasket left overs from the cover. Use a nylon scrub or something softer than aluminium.
The cardboard trick is genius 😳
It helps a lot 👍🏻
I use the new gasket and a sharpie to mark the exact location on the cardboard that came in the gasket then use a punch to make the holes for the bolts.
I love the tinkering with the thing. Some good music in the cave, something to drink and you are good to go.
Heaven 😊
Hi Robert, I've now changed the clutch plates and put a few miles on it. It has made a real difference. It goes into 1st without the big clunk and I don't hear a squeal when taking off from cold. But I think the most significant change has been the bite point. The clutch has a nice and progressive feel that you can feather, before, when you let the clutch out there was nothing, nothing, nothing then a sudden grab. So thanks for the recommendation Robert, keep up the good work, we enjoy watching you guys.
Great to hear! I built courage a long time before doing it but glad I did.
I gotta change the clutch myself to my MT 07 in about a week and this video is gonna help a lot and make a great difference, very well explained thank you
Thanks mate. You can do it 👍🏻
little tip from me, while installing the clutch cover, 14:12 there is a little mark near to the pull lever (upside down triangle). if you align it to that mark you clutch shaft will be adjusted. if anyone interested, Service manual 5-49". Thanks for the video!
Yep, think i even mentioned that 😊
Perfect workday for the dark season. As you said it's all about endorphines, your relation to the bike and getting ready for the new season. Happy rides, Günter/Nürnberg
Thanks Günter!
Very well explained, Robert! As long as the steel plates are not discolored or warped, you can continue to use them. Wear is actually only on the friction disks (discoloration, or if the squares on the friction disks are ground down, or the disks are below their minimum size, or just burnt/just smell at them) or at the inner and outer Clutch basket (grooves on the touch surface of the steel disks on inner basket / friction disks on the outer basket) and of course, length of the springs. The clutch baskets of your bike look absolutely perfect. It'll work the same distance again, I believe! By the way, the Abil seal has to be used dry. A very thin layer of silicone sealant is only applied to the separating surfaces of the housing halves. The sealing surfaces should be absolutely free of grease and oil. Clean the surfaces beforehand with brake cleaner!
Thank you for the tips! 🙏
Thanks for the video, I live 200+ KMs for the Yamaha dealer and like to do my own maintenance, this will give me a solid reference point for doing that job.
Awesome! Glad to help
It was really a very technical and meticulous maintenance.👋😊
Great video, great inserts like "endorphins or a little sip for stable hands" 🤣 I love your sense of humor. As the owner of T7, when the time comes, I will also replace the clutch myself. Thank you 👍
Thank you 😊
@@NomadSweden❤
Probably this is not de right place to write but just want to make sure you read it. Thanks so much for your video on T7 suspension settings. We are all most sime size and weigh and I just "cut a paste" your settins to my T7 and it has definitley improve a lot. Thanks so much.
Excuse me for my englihs that its quite rusty.
Best regards
Nice how to video Robert!...I'm sure many T7 people like myself will make good use of the video!! Cheers, Steve 💚
Thanks Steve 😊
Good video, thanks. I guess I will change the clutch myself as well when it is time. Safe ride
Well done, Rob, thanks for this!
😊👍🏻
12:21 There is a special tool available for removing gasket. If you do it with a knife, you might damage your housing. (Edit: Spelling)
Yes I learnt this now. Thanks for the tip!
Enjoyed the service episode. Good luck, hope it works.
Hälsningar ifrån Falbôgdabon I Mexiko
Nice. Why did you wrapped the exhaust pipe? (I think those two comments were about the wrapping haha) But I'm also curious.
The pipe gets hot and melts my boots 😊 this is heat protection
Thank you for an informative video! 🇸🇪🇫🇮
I wont do it but its Nice to know the T7 guts 👍
Greetings from Turkey. Great video as always. I have a questions about T7. Maybe, you might want to answer.
My T7 is 13750 km. I'm having a shifting problem, mostly down to 3rd gear. When i try to downshift 4 to 3, the gear indicator on TFT screen becomes "-". If this blank indicator appears, even the motorcycle moves, shifting becomes impossible without on and off the throttle or pulling and releasing the clutch or both.
And for the last a couple thousand kilometers, when i upshift or downshift, shift pedal moves as if it scratches somewhere.
My Yamaha service thinks that the problem is caused by the clutch plates. However, i think that there might be gearbox problem since the T7 is my first motorcycle. (Yes, great motorcycle to learn how to ride :) )
What do you think the problem is?
Oh I have no idea but I don’t see how it’s a clutch problem. I can shift without clutch at right rpm. Should be the gearbox. Check with a different workshop. Good luck
Nicely done, thanks. Did you flush the coolant first as Yamaha is now recommending blue coolant rather than thepink. they dont even sell the pink one anymore. Not sure if both can be mixed
I did not flush the coolant this time. Not sure if I need to if it's working properly. Perhaps next time :)
why you didn't change the water pump aswell?
Should I? Didn’t have parts for that.
without oil and coolant was a very easy job, just asking I have no experince with motorcycles@@NomadSweden
There is a reason why the outer plates are different, they turn against the aluminium plate and alu basket, you dont want friction there... also not using a original metal gasget... when the motor gets really hot it can/will leak or blow. Normally you was more prepared for a video my friend ;)
Thanks for the tip! 😊
How does this clutch feel compared to OEM? Has the friction area changed ? Or the feel at all?
No change in feel compared to new bike. I changed the springs also that are a little stiffer than my worn ones. Not much but noticeable.
Thank you so much for this video I'm gonna change clutch on my t7 this week and I will use your video us a guide 💪🫡🙏
Glad to help!
Thank you very much.
just a little sip for steady hands 🤣 I can relate to that one tjommi 🙈 Looks like a easy enough job I would dear to do myself one day. Great to see that it has so little wear after 70.000km. Would love to see Mattais clutch after 70.000km 🤪 Great video and good explanation. Cheers 🥃
Cheers tjommi! 🍺
No blue threadlocker for the clutch springs? nice video btw keep up the good work!! :)
Thanks! Well no, perhaps missed that. Hope it will not fall apart
Great video thank you 👏👏
Have you checked the valve clearance yet?
Yes at 40.000 (at service workshop). All was good
Good work 🛠️👍
Thanks, perfect like always👌🤝
😀🙏🏻
Haha, this is great me and Ari-Pekka "The One & Only" have movie time in the car driving to a secret location. We have not looked thru it yet, how was the water pump impeller condition? Funtime to mech on the bike, especially in a nice garage like yours! Me and Ari are talking about a 🍺🍺🍺 fest in the Nomad garage ☝️😁
Welcome for a 🍺 fest anytime!
Damn, you went to art school. Careful with sharp objects. 4:45 Good vid. Don't drink the yellow water.
Good to see you after winter hibernation 😉.Did you soak the clutch in oil before installation?
Yep overnight
@@NomadSweden It's funny, but in the service manual there is not a word about preparing the clutch plates - impregnating them with oil. Did you see it there?
I have a Ténéré 2023 (15,000 km) and the clutch always pulls a little when shifting. I have to be extremely precise (like "manual" QS) when sorting or do it again. Downshift with blipping. And when I put in 1st gear I can still feel it pulling e.g. when I stop at a traffic light. Yes, I can handle it (front brake, ...) but it's not pleasant. I have an XT660R and it makes a big big difference.
Even if the clutch lever is completely on the handlebars. I cut off the lever so I can fully push it to the handlebars with just 2 fingers. It didn't help. The dealer mechanic told me it was fine. Another dealer's head mechanic told me he's seen worse. The bike is still under warranty, but I'm thinking of replacing it (probably a corrugated plate or oiling the plates before assembly at the factory).
Thank for video and fine ride!
Just so you know. You don't have to drain the coolant. Makes the job a lot easier.
Yes i mention this in the video 😊
@@NomadSweden My bad🙈
What coolant was in the bike, it doesn't look like the Yamalube coolant (blue color)
Not sure which coolant was in there. Perhaps my service workshop changed it at some point.
What service manual do you use and where did you get it from?
Its available in many places online. Try this www.dropbox.com/s/5mvv8ojzfijx6xf/T7sh.pdf?dl=0
@@NomadSweden Thanks! Btw, I've been following a lot your videos on the T7 and they are awesome!!! Keep doing them. And let me know if you you'll ever be riding in Romania.
@andreibaraian88 thanks 🙏
What can you tell us about T7 after 70.000kms? Did you have any problems at all?
Not much to tell actually. No problems.
Hey, well done man. That was pretty cool to see. The cardboard screw board is a fantastic idea, calm careful approach, thats t7 true love 😂. I get mine on friday, only done 6000ks and comes with $3k of fruit including full suspension upgrade to my weight. Half price of a brand new one. Happy days.
Nice! Happy days and congrats
Must be stolen 😂
Thanks!
Wow thank you so much 🙏
Are you preparing your motorcycle for the season?😊
Yes indeed
@@NomadSweden super...
Show 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
👍 Süper
You missed a critical step, soaking the clutch plates. Without completing his step you will have to redo the whole process, including needing a new gasket.
I think you missed it in the video when i had the plates soaking 😊 all good here
Excellent Saturday afternoon content ... your commentary is on point, as always (13:07😆) ... cheers🍺Robert.
Cheers 🍻
The small chain on the rear of the clutch basket (oil pump chain i think) seem to be very loose??
Yes, but i dont know how tight it should be so I left it as it was
Such small amount of lithium grease will not interfere or make any problem with the lubrication.
Thanks 🙏
Hi
So is the very last plate to be installed the only one that goes in alined with the punch mark ?
Yes, only the last one. It's a bit confusing in the manual, but the first one actually can't go in aligned with the punch mark. It's not deep enough to allow that.
For us Europe guys the cheapest way to get OEM clutch parts is to actually order a clutch kit from the US. 1WS-W001G-00-00
It contains all plates/springs and gasket.
Sadly it isn't sold here, but it still comes out significantly cheaper than buying all parts seperately, which we have to here.
Interesting 👍🏻
Best way to save money on parts is to only change what needs changing & don't replace the inner plates if still well within spec.
@@NomadSwedenfyi the OEM +4cm rally seat is also cheaper when ordered from the US to EU (partzilla).
For me that was the best upgrade for this bike...
i have the same thing want to check clutch plates but never did anything like it this makes me want to do it myself aswell thank you for this video and keep it up
Cheers!
Really beautiful job, and your video captured it. Thanks for sharing
Thank you very much!
One thing, never use a cutting tool on soft aluminum cases, use a plastic scrapper. This will prevent accidentally gouging the surface.
Thanks for the tip!
I need a man cave like yours (BIKE CAVE)!!!! wow, now I need a beer, cheers!
Every man should have one 😊🍺
Every real biker should have a man cave (for his bike!). Even, when you're non or little experienced in bikes technic, every little screwing job should be reconsidered, alone or with friends, maybe with a beer (?)! Especially in the winter months, it can be beneficial for the mind and soul to exchange ideas with your bike buddies.😉
Hey Robert, what is that tape around exhaust pipe ? have the same mivv muffler and have issue with heating boots :D
It’s to prevent heating boots 😊 It’s ”exhaust bandage”. Keeps heat away
@@NomadSwedenthx, just bought it ❤🎉
How is the new clutch doing Robert, have you noticed any difference or improvement to the original.
Clutch is great. I had some quirking sounds on the old clutch when the engine was cold (As if the plates were dry). Those are completely gone now.
That's good to know. I can hear the same sounds from mine so I will go for those plates and change mine too. 👍
exaust pipe back
Not sure what you mean?
will be damage the pipe of exaust you dress with some cover ...from water i mean
Not sure what you mean. Coolant liquid?
@@NomadSweden The wrap on your exhaust pipe might absorb or otherwise trap water against the pipe and cause pre-mature rusting. I think that is what the person meant.
@@mattkaymoto Ah I see. Yes perhaps. Time will tell :) But mostly the pipe is very hot if the bike is outside.
Tack från Kiruna 🤘!
Anytajm 👍🏻
Thanks!
Wow thank you so much 🙏
bravo ... molto bene sei un meccanico.