Ultimate Engine Maintenance Guide: Triple Your Bike Engine's Lifespan
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 кві 2023
- Do you want to know the secret to extending your motorcycle engine's life significantly?
In this video, Adam Riemann reveal's the correct way to flush your engine and walk you through the essential process of changing the oil and filter and shares his expert insight on choosing the perfect oil for your motorcycle.
Watch now to maximise your engine's longevity and ensure smooth and reliable performance on every ride.
🔔 Hit the Subscribe button and become part of our growing community for more of our thrilling off-road adventures and valuable riding insights.
Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @motologyfilms
Subscribe to Motology Films on UA-cam: / ariemann1
Visit our website: motologyfilms.com/
Purchase Our Feature Films here: gumroad.com/ariemann1
Follow us on Social Media
Instagram - / motology_films
Facebook - / motologyar
TikTok - / ariemann1
#bikemaintenance #adventurebike #dirtbike #motologyfilms - Авто та транспорт
Learned more about oil changes in 18 minutes watching your video than I have in 40 years of riding :) Thanks!
You had never learned to get the bike warm? Read the manual much?
Me too feel stupid now
💯 True 👍👍
Ditto, Martin.
Commen sense ..hot oil changes are the only way
i'm a mechanic (a car mechanic but there are no differences when it comes to oil change) and i would say you did a pretty good job in showing how to properly do an oil change.
i would just like to specify some things:
1- when installing a new filter, it is good practice to use some oil to lube the O-ring (in this case, it was pre-lubed), to do so just tip your finger in oil and wet the rubber seal (better with gloves)
2- do not ever use power tools when tightening either the oil filter, the drain plug or the fill plug, as you correctly shown, you should alway tighten by hand and stop turning as soon as you feel a bit of resistance
3- one good thing to do is to check the oil filter and the air box, i often find bits of leaves and other dirt in air boxes (behind the air filter), i'm still puzzled as to why that happens even on relatively new air filters (i suspect poor installation is the cause) if you find such debris, use a hoover to suck all the debris out, pay attention also to the mainifold leading to the engine and hoover it as far as you can, DO NOT, under any circumstance use pressurized air to try to remove this debris, it could seriously damage your engine as you are pushing the debris INTO the engine.
other than that, just give your engine a bit of time before you start hammering it (it doesn't really take much time on modern engines, you mainly just wanna reach oil pressure before starting to move, 10 seconds is a safe esitmate) and do not rev the engine much before it heats up a bit (doesn't take long, 1/2 minutes of decent speed driving). if you follow these instructions, and you do proper maintenance, your engine will be decently bulletproof (design defects not withstanding).
A good video. I use a torque wrench on sump plug and filter.
I also cut the old filter open and inspect the paper and keep it in a library with kms and date.
In your opinion, what is your recommendation on the oil and filter change for the bike at the same time... Specs do not call for the same change out... Cheers mate
@@RobertSantos-rw8dy I go 5k or 12 months. The start if the
Start of the ride season. Plus fresh brake fluid.
@@frankguernier2280 inspecting the filter is a good idea, but one shouldn't be shocked if he finds a little amount of metal dust, just be careful of chunks, the torque wrench is also a good thing, not vital, but good.
Don’t be afraid to allow the bike to cool a little bit after riding the hell out of it. I’ve had bad experiences with hot engines, aluminum threads, and steel bolts. Things don’t always come properly torqued from the factory, or your dealership, or you’re friends garage, and if it’s over torqued and good and hot, you’re chances of destroying threads goes up pretty quickly. Especially on smaller bolts like the ones you’d find on KTM’s LC8c oil filter cover.
Totally I would let my 701 cool down a bit, the threads are made of swiss cheese, i got 4 bolts for the 2 oil filters torqued at 8Nm and they scare the shit out of me even with a pro torque wrench every time lol
I over tightened the drain plug on my cbr600 while it was hot once. I'm super paranoid about doing it again. I usually change it cold but I think i will warm it up this time and see how it goes. Will wait for it to be cold before tourqing the drain plug.
Being as I change mine at home, I can drain the oil hot and allow a decent cooldown time before torquing the drain bolt into the heated case. Never had issue yet... but now you got me worried. Is it mainly an issue when tightening into the warm aluminum? Or even when cracking the drain bolt loose? Thx.
@@CRGmotors not cracking the drain bolt loose when it's warm for me, but tightening when engine is warm could stretch the threads
And if you're worried about sediment.. flush a whole entire quart of new oil through the fill hole, and let it drain out until empty or even clear.! Flush the engine with new, to get out all the old. Then fill completely up with new, good to go!
As an ex mechanic with ocd this makes me happy to see somebody teach the UA-cam world with actual experience and knowledge. All of my moto mates turn up at the track dirty bikes dirty filters dropping cold oil drives me crazy and they wonder why their bikes don't last 🤷🏼♂️
Would love to see how you change and measure fork oil. It's perhaps one of the most ignored maintenance tasks and yet a crucial one! Cheers
What a great subject for a video! Hopefully we will see it.
Dump it out. Then measure it in a cup before you fill. ??? What else is there to discuss?
@@SLP-eb1wp Because it's generally better to measure by air gap, not fluid volume.
If it were crucial everyone's forks would be destroyed and leaking.
People ignore because they're a pain in the ass to do, some bikes you have to disassembly the whole front just to yank the forks out
Nobody changes my oil but me, for 45yrs, but i I ALWAYS learn things from you! Thanks, good stuff 🤙
Its very easy to do and it saves you a lot of money.
@@crad5476...& very important, so why trust anyone else to do it? Nobody cares for a bike like the one depending on it, apprentice at a shop, doubt it, he's learning with your bike!
Loving your technical insights and maintenance videos. They are pure value because they help me 'understand' why I should do something in a particular way. Cheers from Holland.
Thank you Adam for your shorter super helpful videos as of late. For someone without an engine-guru around growing up this are so valuable!
Loving these maintenance vids. You’ve got so much knowledge but your expertise is in how you explain it. Thank you
i learned something new today ✌️ Thank You!
Thank ya good sir!
As a new adventure bike owner I have needed every single one of these videos you’ve recently released.
Also changing oil on my 450RL after work tonight.
Thanks Adam!
🏍️💨
Absolutely gold stuff. Thank you, Sir! As a happy owner of a 2 years old motorcycle, I'm gonna do my own maintenance, starting with oil change,thanks to your valuable insides.
Torque wrench with a new crush washer, that will guarantee you'll never strip a drain plug. And the torque spec assumes a new crush washer.
The smart answer is a fumoto valve 👍
@@allanthomas7345 I've old and I never crashed a car but I'm not stupid enough to ignore seat belts, abs or car insurance...
A copper drain plug can be reused many times with no leaks. Assuming it's not over torqued.
@@methanial73 You are obviously referring to a drain bolt copper washer ,as motorcycle sump drain plugs are not manufactured from copper . You can reheat a used copper washer & reform it by heating it up with a blow torch if you haven’t got a replacement washer.
It doesn’t matter if there is a new washer or not ,an accurate torque wrench set to the correct value ,will not over tighten. The washer made of alloy or copper is there to prevent oil seepage ,as the tightened bolt crushes it down to make up for slight irregularities in the sealing area between bolt head & sump drain hole area . Often you can get away with re using a previously used washer ,but if possible it’s always better to use a new washer of the same type ,to prevent less chance of oil seepage at running temp . Often the owners handbook won’t mention renewing the sump washer ,or only mention replacing it if damaged. Any torque value mentioned is only to prevent damage to the sump bolt & sump drain hole threads by over- tightening . The force exacted on the sump threads is the same where a new crush washer is used or not ,as long as the correct torque value is used .
I watch quite a lot of moto related channels and yet you're the only one that have really orignal content and touch on some really important topics (ok FortNine is golden too). Good on you mate and keep up!
Agree with everyt single word you said on this video, as always.
And don´t forget 🙂
Never turn the engine off when the fan kicks on to cool the engine down, let it turn off first.
Why is that?
@@Gwiedert If you turn the engine in this very hot condition off, the heat will stay for very long time in the engine and because the water is not circulating at this moment it may start to boil and damage the coolant or even the head gasket and other parts will also sufer from this.
This is the reason why modern cars have an electrical water pump that continues to circulate the water even if you turn the engine off.
Sorry for my bad english, its not my native language.
@@iliasminas7711 garbage German cars have those electric that don’t last
@@Smoshylife True
Genuinely the best video I've seen on the subject. Everything is explained and has a reason behind it, not just "do this because we said so".
My new favourite channel…simple and practical advice from an experienced rider looking to help everyone out.
Absolutely superb. The passion for biking makes the content infectious. 👏👏👏
I love you mate....always clear, concise information with an Ozzie twist! 👍👍
I appreciate the detailed explanation of each step in the maintenance process.
Some great tips Adam thanks. I think regular oil changes are one of the simplest and most important things we can do for our bikes. Learn how to do it yourself, save time and money and become familiar with your own machine👍
life circumstances have forced me to sell my T7. Love your videos! So good explanations, simple but good edition! Good job! Looking forward for the next one.
Thank you for the explanations. Like your previous ones they have been on point. I have recommended your videos to my son who is just starting out. Keep them coming.
Never stop listening & learning. And never stop riding a motorbike ☺ Thanks and big regards from Germany to you
No wasted words here. Every minute was informative. Much appreciated!
I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.
Every so often you come across a channel with brilliant info where you learn a load no matter how much youve learnt in the past :) thanks for taking the time to share gradually working my way through the videos superb work an info. I got my 300 rally back from a dealer the other week after its first service usually do all my own work an noticed how filthy the oil was after its first service in the window, my dads bro who raced Nortons always hammered it into my mind to change them hot, ill try the fan trick on the rally this week.
Thanks Adam once again, your information is always top notch
Love how you express the hole concept of everything in the process
of doing the job 🙌 👌
Always great advice that will improve my knowledge on my riding and keeping my bikes running sweet.
Adam, Thank you for the brilliant videos, I've learned so many valuable tips over the past year. It's s great having people like you taking time from their lives and providing good solid information. It's truly appreciated. Here's a tiny tip that was provided to me by a WW2 vet to who I always listened very attentively when I was a mechanics apprentice for a small family garage. He always prefilled the oil filters. He explained when you removed the filter it had oil in it so it's best to install the filter with oil in it so it's ready to lubricate the engine once it's started. ( Grant F also stated in the comments ) Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
@Terry Willefert When i replaced the turbo on my Saab i unplugged the ignition cassette so that i could crank over the engine without it starting until i built up sufficient oil pressure, could probably do the same with oil changes if you want to be extra safe with dry filters.
I'd probably do that if it wasn't for the fact that most of the stuff i own has either sideways or upside down filters
Great video Arie, good tips, bring back memories about my old KTM 500 2 stroke pieces of metal coming oud with every oil change, it had a magnetic drainplug, you can get that for your T7 too from Kedo, it collects al the metal particles so no metal going through the oil channels, good stuff mate & keep them video's coming, enjoy the tinkering with the bikes, big thumbs up from Thailand👍👍
Your description of the[ Gruel left in the motor]is without Parallel. clutch plate particules ,followed up with gear box steel shavings grinding their way thru the motor, not to mention the oil filter false sense of defence against such an attack. LOVED it Adam. I learn something new every time. your fan PARC ADV
Did a cold oil change about 3 weeks ago, watched you vid, took it for a blast around the farm with the kids, then dropped the hot oil out, my clean oil that had just gone in was black, thanks heaps.
That rear wheel hopping at around 1:00 had my heart pumping!
Gotta get that oil in every crevice!
one of my fav channels on youtube! never miss a fortnine or ariemann1 video
Love the detail, thanks for the time you have taken to explain this.
Love your recent maintenance videos mate!
Touratech bash plate is what I have, so worth it.
Very good knowledge you have, I change the oil after a hot steady day in the UK and even if the manual says 6k miles to change,I still change mine at 1k miles 👍.
Sump plug bolt, I drilled small hole and lockwired it, Not Rm80 experience but yz125.
Always spot on! It's a joy listening to you! Thanks buddy
One of the best videos out there on oil change. I would add run the motor for a few secs then turn off and check level again after a minute or so to finally dial in your level. I tip my bike over each way when draining the oil to get as much as possible down to the sump. Maybe over kill. Thanks for a great video mate. Regards from the UK.
You have so much good tips!
I've been riding for +15years and I never knew those little tricks
Thanks for also explaining WHY you should have warm oil and so fort :)
Keep it going man. I love your channel
As someone who hasn't even touched handbars before, I look at you as a bigger brother that's teaching me stuff. I'm looking to get my license these days and grab an old bike to learn both to ride and the mechanical stuff on it and I'm really pumped.
Love the content, I came across your channel when you got that old Africa Twin in Norway and it's just amazing. Keep it up!
Welcome to motorcycling!
I'd say you're getting into it the right way, enjoy & good luck! ..careful who you take advice from, but think you found a good place for it 🤙
Be careful, not all advice is equally helpful. Get another opinion, several if possible, then make your decision and regret it, learn by experience. Some sources are more reliable than others, shop manuals are better than UA-cam experts.
ARiemann1's videos are the real deal ... no reading from a script, just a straight shooter.
Good Stuff ! Straight to-it with no BS ! I was lucky that 3 of my Dads mates were A-Grade-Mechanics who built some amazing race-engines etc . They taught-me what you just showed and at 14 , I soon become the 'Free' mechanic for all my mates ! Any problems and I had 3 experts I could give a call , we did everything to our bikes and (later) cars , including engine-rebuilds . There seemed to be a lot more commonsense back in those days (I'm just cracking 70 and still ride, TR1 xv is my favorite, my Old-Man-bike is a W650) Dave NZ
I suppose i should use this rare opportunity when im early to tell you that as a newbie rider i found your video,s enjoyable and to a certain degree useful (i have yet to really learn or try most stuff from all the guides you made,let alone have a suitable vehicle for some of the things)
Ill comeback to it when need be.
Thanks for explaining things so well mate, enjoy the bike! I can't wait to get a T7 sometime in the near future..
Thanks for putting that together, always something to learn from your vids
These have been very enjoyable videos to watch! Thank you!
Great content Adam , really enjoying it , thank you
Mate, absolutely fantastic video! As an engineer sometimes is hard to explain to people, you have done it beautifully! Also worth to mention, for people living in cold area it is good practice to change oil before winter, as old oil with all these particles has also water particles in it and when sits over winter which tends to crystalize, once this happens there could be small microscopic reacting creating pitting or crevice corrosion. If you change your oil as you have shown before winter, you are ready to go in summer!
Just another great video Adam! Thanks!
Such matter of fact explaining, love it. Thanks for another great video.
I use a magnetic sump plug which collects a lot of the gunk between oil changes. At each change I wipe off the gunk and appreciate magnetism.
I noticed that Adam was not mentioning this in the video. I have magnets in gear sump, oil sump and even for transaxle. Gear oil plug looked like a little hedgehog made of steel, when I changed the oil at 10000km. Suggested interval is 30000km. I seriously think that gearbox have died before that, the amount of metal flakes was insane.
Another approach with the engine is to put a couple of strong magnets on the side of the filter can. This will help collect steel particles onto the side of the can instead of in the filter element. Good economical approach. Main drawback is that unless you cut it open with a filter can opener, you can’t see how much material is collecting.
loving the maintenance side of things my dude keep it coming :)
The heat cycles will also darken your oil. I don’t disagree about the sediment but it’s not the only factor. Great vid!
spot on, oil in its pure form is black, also good point, on the filter, always oem for the bikes, , cars ok with ryco etc because they live or die on quality, mass production,not bikes
I too am with you. The same "sediments" are going to settle again on those same "surfaces" regardless to tempreature. It happened previously after it was ran hot, will likely happen again while it is hot..
@@SgtPepperDayZ yeah the info in the video is wrong. The color has most to with crankcase blow by, fuel dilution and excessive heat intervals.
And condensation or any additives a person may have used making the oil "burn" at lower tempatures.
Also: a tiny bit of exhaust makes it past the piston rings.
I just like the way that he runs his videos and narrates them, I can listen to this guy talk motorcycles all day long.
Thank you teacher, for this great lesson! Keep going with the good work ✊
2 things I also do is prefill the oil filter up to the threads once, It'll absorb into the filter media. Once the engine has drained I take .5qt of fresh oil and pour it in the fill port with the drain plug still off, you'd be surprised that it still comes out dirty for a few sec and then clean. I always buy extra oil, to me it's cheap compared to an engine.
Great episode. Lots of knowledge put in a short period of time, and entertaining. Thanks, Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
Your explanation makes perfect sense to anyone but how many people actually do it the right way? Thanks for the video.
i always changed my oil when my bike was very cool...or i gave it rest say al the night and then the next morning i changed the oil...and it was my practice for the last 20+ years or more...now after watching this i will never let the bike cool down..such a clever tip..
I just learnt a very critical thing about changing engine oil hot and not cold!! Awesome!
Great tutorial Adam. Many thanks 🙏
Great advice, I always go for a good blast before an oil and filter change. Also change oil at half the specified interval, it's cheap insurance.
Fantastic info, mate. Definitely food for thought !!
Brill video and great help for when I get the bike! Thanks very much Adam!
I have followed your videos, very precious informations shared to us. Thank you very much for your effort doing each video and I appreciate you!
Love how explain the purpose of charging oil while it's hot..my father always told me to run an engine to operating temp whether it's a car motorcycle or lwn mower but never explained why..
Adam, very nice video mate! This is a huge tip. Ty!
I've been riding for only lil about 3 years or so and I was always told to change oil on cold without giving any sort of explanation lol. I guess is never too late to learn, thanks for the free lessons man! Love your vids keep 'm comin!
Does your owners manual say to change oil cold or is that something you heard somewhere?
@@bradboustead1682 heard. The "owners manual" I got when I got the bike was super basic sadly.
Awesome video, tyvm! Went on and did the oil change. Turned out to be solid interesting mess, because I did not want to take off all the crashbars to remove the skid plate, which was bolted on underneath them. But next time will be much better and cleaner.
I would like to add something I like to do (and it's only a personal preference) when changing oil filters: I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil, letting the internals in the filter absorb all the oil it can before mounting it on the engine. Doing this will allow the oil pump to fill up the filter casing a lot faster as it is already saturated, and the new oil will reach the engine faster.
This is by the way one of the best videos I've ever seen on how to do a proper oil change! You're being informative and educational and at the same time making the topic interesting, watching you hammer that bike on the track also helps keeping our attention 😉
It's interesting, but there isn't any proof that filling with oil helps, and on modern ZX-6R's the pump loses it's prime and the only way to prime the pump again is to actually loosen the oil filter to allow air to bleed out. It might actually help the pump to have less resistance on it, by having an empty filter, so it's able to actually get oil into the oil pump and begin pumping before it encounters resistance in the oil filter. Even when I fill an oil filter totally full, the engine still never has oil pressure, so I've had to crank my engine with the throttle all the way open (flood clear mode). Hold your throttle completely full throttle, then crank, and it won't start, because it shuts off all the fuel to the injectors. After the oil light goes out, then start it. You won't damage your engine this way. Dry starts cause years of damage in a few seconds.
Alot of tractor and truck engine manufacturers specify the fill new filter with oil method also.
When the oil filter sits sideways or upside down it just leads to spilling oil all over.
@@suprlite Not really, the filter absorbes the oil and holds it, I'm not talking about filling the filter to the brim _after_ the filter is in fact saturated. I've done this for years with no problem at all - If you're spilling oil you're doing it wrong 😂
@@Ritalie I see this is a comment I've not noticed, but yeah you're absolutely correct, no proof for this being the best way of changing the filter, its my preference - and some engine/vehicle manufacturers actually instruct you to do so in the manual. You do what you think is best, and if your bike needs the air to bleed in order to get the filter filled and oil flowing I guess "bleeding" is the way to change filter in your case.
Love it, especially the simple explanations of the things the mechanically challenged should know!
Absolutely fantastic video mate. Thank you 👍
I am taking the dipstick off as well while the oil plug and filter are out. Great video, thank you!
Well done, very informative. Really enjoy your vids.
This is the reason I service my own cars and bikes - got burned too many times by workshops that just didn’t have the care and respect for my stuff. A word of warning for hot engines and alloy threads - take care and go easy as it is VERY easy to strip.
Great info, appreciate the details 👍🏼
Absolutely excellent and beautiful video, thank you Adam…
most educational bike related videos on internet . had been following you for long always happy to see your contents
Thankyou
Love the videos Adam very helpful makes me confident In working on my t7
Wow, this video is an absolute gem! 🌟 The content is not only informative but also presented in such an engaging and entertaining way. The visuals are top-notch, keeping me hooked from start to finish. Keep up the fantastic work! 👏👏"
I like how you explain why, without knowing why, steps will eventually be skipped.
Very informative and explained easy to understand 👍🏼
Good explanation of why the oil should be hot. You convinced me.
THANKS !
Greetings from France
Thank you Adam. Your videos are Top Shelf.
Liked the facts you covered so deeply. Thanks for sharing.
SUPER educational! Thanks!
Thanks for all the great info!
Good stuff, clearly given. I 'joined' - your efforts have well earned it. Cheers Michael 😊
Welcome to the channel Michael, and thanks for the support mate!
Great video. I guess people need reminding of the basics sometimes, so that is timely and logical.
thanks for all the information you provide us really some of it i didn't know at all, much love, support and appreciation from Egypt.......
Am super so in love with this bike.. I pray I afford one in my lifetime .. great rider with so much knowledge on the right bike.. kool
Fantastic video. Well explained. Thx
Greetings from Iceland, thank you for a great video. To remove nuts or bolts.....Lefty loosely....righty tightly...that's how I learnt it 40 some years ago when I got my Aeronautical Engineers degree.
You are the Man... great video... learn some, refresher for the rest. Thanks Brother!
Excellent video as always.
11:38 good idea to pre fill the filter with oil to soak into the filter media so oil pressure rises quicker.
Thank you. And a thumbs up for being likable with the extra knowledge 👍
For me, changing the oil is a pain the backside (literally), but your knowledge and methodical approach shows how simple and important it is ... and so it becomes fun.
So interesting. Thanks Adam!