Yamaha FZ6R: Clutch Installation
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Here we install the Barnett Performance clutch kit in the FZ6R.
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My bike would pop into gear but there was no engagement, so it virtually felt like I burnt my clutch. The forums (aka mr Half Click Up) suggested pushrod 2 alignment, but my alignment was fine. After doing the clutch job, still had the same issue, and later discovered that it was because my front sprocket nut was missing! The boss nut used to hold the clutch basket threads onto the front sprocket, so I threw that on and red loctite the shit out of it, and am back on the road. So fyi if anyone thinks they lost their clutch, check your front sprocket!
@@Dj510O sketchy 😳
@@HalfClickUpwhy so ? Kinda new to this and my 2012 fz6r just rolls & revs around in gear ):
Just started getting the occasional slip at high rpms. This is exactly the I need, and I feel confident enough to do it myself. Thank you half click up. You're the savior of the fz6r community
I do what I can brotha. 😎🤙
Thank you so much! Been looking for instructions video next to my haynes manual for the clutch replacement. Appreciate all the videos!! Thank you!!❤
@@Juahho_jk glad you found my content helpful, my friend. You’re welcome!
Holy cow man what an incredible video. Eases the anxiety of doing this job. I'll be doing it on an 06 FZ6 and I notice a few minor differences between the two. So is this a slipper clutch? I believe the FZ6 is not. Just trying to figure out why there is a difference.
Thanks man
This is not a slipper clutch. The kit you see here is the same that you’d get for the FZ6, but you would actually use the extra steel plate that is included. If you look at my unboxing video for this kit, I point out the specific extra plate that comes in its own little bag, and Barnett specifically labels it as being for use ONLY with the FZ6.
That's an excellent video. Thankfully I'm only on 12k miles so won't be doing one myself but it's very educational to watch it. Can't believe so many parts inside! 😮
@@ewanstevenson4721 thanks for the kind words! Yep, a tons of moving parts, but a fairly straightforward job when you follow the service manual 😬
@@HalfClickUp hey, I was wondering what you thought of Spicy110 60k miles XJ6 review. Yours was definitely a better production, with your intro etc. Still can't believe he's got 100+k subscribers 🥴
You've not had a Fizzer Friday for a while, is it cause u got a new house?
@@ewanstevenson4721 I like Spicy110’s stuff. He has great audio, too. I think I may have gotten into UA-cam “while the getting was good” as far as his subscriber count. The algorithm favors some creators over others, too. I just got Evelyn to my new garage a couple of days ago, so haven’t had the opportunity to ride lately and have been driving my car daily. Now that I’m all moved in, though, look for a new episode this Friday!
Dude you are most definitely a wizard lol you make it look so easy working on your bike, im gonna attempt this job now after watching this video ..
The factory service manual goes a long way brotha! Glad my video helped you, thanks for watching!
You’re videos are amazing and helps me with my 2013 FZ6R!! Love the content! Very helpful and awesome mods!
That’s why I do it bro, glad to be of help! 👍
Quick question man, sometimes when im riding my fz6r when i go to downshift or upshift into 1st or 2nd it goes into neutral and when i try to get it into gear it makes like a really fast machine gun sounding noise and vibrates the shift lever and after a second or 2 of riding the clutch it goes straight into gear, do you know what could be causing that issue
@@AlexMolenda sounds like it’s out of adjustment, either at the lever or the shifter pawl. For the lever, make sure you have roughly a nickel’s worth of gap in the free play. At the pawl end, make sure the two alignment marks line up when squeezing the clutch lever as described in the service manual.
@@HalfClickUp alright I'll get a good look at it thank you so much, once I've got the time I wanna do the Barnett clutch kit as well
@@AlexMolenda best clutch in the world! You won’t be disappointed
I dont think you slipping has anything to do with the clutch fiberes or steels, they look PERFECT.
I think your problem is the springs, they will fatigue over time and dont have enought force to avoid slipping.
Well, either way, everything inside is new now and should be good to go for the foreseeable future 😬👍
@@HalfClickUp jeje yes, cover all the basis!
You’re right! Those aren’t hotspots on the friction material. Just wet spots of oil.
Your video has helped me out with my xj6-n which by the looks of it is exactly the same, and now I understand what I did wrong 😂
@@mohammedalialsoltane3443 yep, identical bikes, mechanically. Care to share what your issue was?
@@HalfClickUp my clutch started slipping, so I thought I needed a new one as I've been driving it for over 2000 miles since last year. Got the new one without the plates inbetween the clutches and I've left the last one just like all the others and I didn't replace that o ring. Clutch was slipping just like the old ones (I did open it multiple times but never really knew it was positioned like that). So I need to either scuff the plates or replace them then get a new o ring and put the last clutch plate in correctly
@@mohammedalialsoltane3443 ah yes, phasing that last one is imperative!
There's no liquid inside the cup? Why there's a cap? Can't understand
The cap is where you fill the engine with oil. The oil only circulates inside the clutch assembly while the engine is running. With the engine off, all of the oil is in the oil pan, below the level of the clutch cover. This is why hardly any oil is lost when you remove the clutch cover.
@@HalfClickUp thank you
can i get a link for the clutch kit used
Here you go, this seller has the best price out there:
www.ebay.com/itm/314839592797?epid=26011276050&hash=item494de6ef5d:g:IuMAAOSw~FVlCbTD&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4E%2Bq3VEHAgwnHu326oD8YqfxFaBDHAcoeokmsts95pO9uTHUUEaACnUsfdZOzIqMv1MQ0AIVdchMsB8idp%2FQhHG8Qfapz5ev7uUnwSqIbw%2B5%2Fgj9gpreVAg2teOiTOzJ1wz1l6ybSpGca3%2BXuDbSglrB19Zp3G0%2FiQdN5QTW7FAeC5xAe07etPZusmAZ%2FGVLYYtt741TOYGr0F%2Bhmyp%2BwhVs3hSQpMND6y61HIbuPsVJffbaB2qcDIm7ODFe0wnxfiP2yTlXurlhFkDnFXF%2BxBfQMjmItfeQZts8ntXdsZ1A%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4suByehi
That the hub not the basket , the basket is the bigger part
I just go by the factory service manual. Let me know if you have any questions.
🤓
Dont put the last one like that, my clutch didn't engage at all afterwards... I should've just done it the way i knew how
@@TheDioblo2345 all procedures in this tutorial were completed according to the factory service manual. This clutch has performed flawlessly on both street and track since the filming of this video.
@@HalfClickUp idk 2011 Yamaha fz6r, with oem basket that last plate needs to be aligned with the others
Not turned half way, idk if it was misheard or what not, but it should go in the same way, I've changed it before without a problem... Just this time needed the rear plates done as well
@@TheDioblo2345 dunno brudda.. manual states last plate to be half-phased as shown. Not sure what caused your situation. As long as your clutch works. 😬
@@TheDioblo2345 yeah that’s a pretty strange situation.
Hey men, love the video, I love all the DIY videos, but this video is special, you are really thorough!
I have a question.
When you go to first gear, do you feel the classical CLUNK noise of the first gear?
I ask this because, my FZ6 S2 has this as many other bikes, but my clutch design doesnt have the circlip and the fiber and steel behind it.
So i want to know if this parts is maybe to fix that clunk, maybe FZ6R (XJ6) fix that clunk noise/hit at first gear produced by the oil moving the entire clutch basket, maybe the spring behind the circlip has the mission to separate the disks when the clutch is actuated, is the only explanation that i have but ... i need to know if FZ6R have this noise too, or not..
Thank you,.
I’ve heard this heavy clunk that you’re referring to on other bikes, and to answer your question, yes the FZ6R does have a light clunk, but it’s nowhere near as “violent” as the “heavy” clunk I’ve heard other bikes make. I believe your theory on the purpose of the circlip section of the basket may be correct.
Hey man hope u can reply to this would really help me out. I have a 2014 Fz6r I don't know much about bikes but I feel like I was also experiencing clutch slips at higher rpms. But recently on my way to work my bike stopped accelerating. I go into first gear and pull the throttle and all it does is rev now. (Bike won't even stall anymore) can changing this resolve my issue ?
Yep, sounds like your clutch is absolutely done dude 😳
How many miles did you have during this vid?
Im about to hit 30k
Love your content, fizzer aliance
Just under 66,000. Thanks for watching my stuff Fizzer Fam! 😎🤙
I'll start on my 2005 R1 this saturday. After lots of UA-cam videos i'm happy I found this one. The big difference is the clutchcover which (in case of the R1) is a bit more difficult. Thanks from The Netherlands.
Thank you for watching. I’m glad my content is helpful!
Thank you for the tutorial, your video will help me solve my clutch issue im having. One question though, did you drain the oil before working on the clutch? You didn't mention it in your video and i thought wouldn't oil leak since the clutch is working in it? Thank you
Glad my content is helpful! To answer your question, no, the lowest point on the engine is the oil pan, which is below the level of the clutch housing. Have a rag ready to wipe a bit of residual out of the housing, but you will not experience any sort of oil dump. All 3 quarts will be down in the pan.
Damn this video could’ve helped me so much like two months ago 😂 but I’m still glad you posted it
Sorry brotha I got it done as soon as I could. I was at the mercy of parts availability! 😬
@@HalfClickUp where did you get the torque wrench? 😅
@@muhammadbilal6774 I use a Pittsburgh torque wrench from Harbor Freight.
@@HalfClickUp sorry one last question 😅 clutch plate torque spec 😅 the six bolts
@@muhammadbilal6774 6 ft lbs, and don’t forget to tighten them sequentially in a star pattern.
What oil did you use on the clutch plates?
Motul 7100 4T
@@HalfClickUp thanks just finished it up runs great !
@@nicksontag8894 great to hear!! 🤙
Albo mi sie zdaje, albo kulki nie dałeś...😮
Jeśli masz na myśli małe łożysko kulkowe, to tak, zamontowałem je.
sorry you couldn't see it. Kind regards😊
@@MsWojtekwojtek 😉👍
Hey man, any idea if the little arrows on the outbasket need to line up with something? I know the dot needs to be lined up on the pressure plate but im lookin at mine and I also see 2 arrows bout 1" apart on the outer basket. Thanks man!
The service manual makes no mention of alignment arrows for the clutch housing. Send it 😬
Great video! I will be using this to help me with my clutch on my 13 FZ6R. Keep up the good work and let us know how the new kit feels
Hey thanks for watching! Let me know if you hit a snag.
Hey man just replaced my clutch exactly how u did it followed everything step by step but I have a little problem. My clutch lever is all wobbly and it doesn't let me shift into neutral. When I'm in 1st I'm holding the clutch and the bike runs. Could this just be that I need to make adjustments to the clutch cable ?
Yep start at the top at the actual lever. Twist that silver threaded knob until the gap at your lever is about a nickel’s width. That’ll tighten up that wobbly feel and should let you better find neutral.
@@HalfClickUp thank u so much man appreciate all the help u given me.
guys how many of you noticed that, in the end if he forgot to put the iron ball, that he initially extracted it with a magnet
At the 25:55 mark I mention that I reinserted the ball bearing off-camera. Trust me, it’s in there 😉
So easy to follow that I have subscribed, good quality workmanship, what do you mean in the comments about placing the final plate in, in half phase, is that made clear in the video?
Hi Ian! If you watch closely as I insert the final plate, its “ears” are not inline with the ears of the other plates, a term known as “half-phase.” It’s the only one that isn’t lined up with the rest.
@@HalfClickUp Ah ok I didn't know it was known as Half phase, always called it off-set myself. Great video, thank you.
Awesome tutorial man
Thanks for watching dude!
I recently upgraded my clutch following this procedure. For some reason my clutch lever has no resistance as if the pressure plate isn't working correctly.
Any tips?
Check that the alignment marks on the push lever assembly are in line. If not, refer to page 5-55 for instruction on how to adjust push rod 2 via the lock nut assembly in order to achieve proper push lever alignment marks. Also, make sure push rod 2 is installed behind, not in front, of the pressure plate.
@@HalfClickUp I opened it back up and realized I simply did not seat the pressure plate all the way. Silly mistake. She's all squared away now, though.
Thanks for the great instructional video!
Fellow Texan.
@@vvelazquez79 oh that’s good to hear! Thanks for watching my stuff brudda 😎
Keep the fizz how tos coming. I never plan on paying a shop to do anything again lol
Nor should you have to, my friend!!
👊😎
My spring plate is rotating when I try to torque the spring bolts. Yours is not is this because of the smaller torque wrench? Or am I missing something
It’s not fully seated. Make sure your reference dots are lined up and wiggle/push till it seats all the way down. It’ll be a noticeable shift when it presses fully into place. You can see it happen in my footage and hear it, too. Also make sure your pushrod 2 is pushed all the way in.
@@HalfClickUp Nailed it Thank you sir
@@HalfClickUp now do you have any ideas for a sticking clutch lever
@@justinhaney5176 hmmm… is the pressure plate moving in and out as you squeeze and let go of the lever?
@@HalfClickUp the bikes already back together… it’s been sitting since July so hopefully wd-40 will do it
Awesome video and great step by step. Thank you
Thanks for watching and I hope my content helps you!
Man amazing videos you help me a lot to fix my 2009 fz6r 😀 but can you help me with something? could you show me how to adjust push rod 2 or push rod 1 to make a perfect alignment, i think i messed up with that 😅 ty and keep it up 👌
Hey Carlos, to adjust pushrod 2 for proper shift shaft alignment, you’ll need to remove your clutch case cover. Locate the two nuts on the end of pushrod 2 right in the center of your clutch basket assembly. The first nut is the lock nut. Back it off the threads so that you can turn the second nut, which is the adjustment nut. Turn it in or out as required until the marks on the shift shaft assembly (left side of the engine) line up. They should only be out of alignment when you pull in the clutch lever. Once you’ve got those shift shaft marks lined up, hold the adjustment nut in place and tighten the lock nut up against it. Retest your lever pull to make sure the alignment is correct. Done 😬👌
@@HalfClickUp OMG I did it and it works perfectly, thank you so much! 😃👌
@@phoenixdragon2294 anytime fam 😎🤙
Did you only have oil on the friction plate or both plates?
Only soaked the friction plates:
Soaked in Friction
ua-cam.com/video/PzNcYuURplU/v-deo.html
Good job. Can't wait for the update :)
Rockin and rollin! 😉
How long did you soak the friction plates for?
24 hours
What’s the part number for the clutch holder tool ?
EBC Clutch Tool CT008SP-CL77
What oil did u use after? The yamalube? Synthetic or regular? Thanks
Motul 7100 4T in 10w40
@@HalfClickUp how often do you change your oil? And i usually use yamalube, do you think i should switch to motul? Thanks
@@Fernando-mh4ng I only ride this bike on Fridays and on the track, so I only change it like once a year. When I commuted daily, I changed it every 3,000 miles. Nothing wrong with Yamalube, I ran that in this bike for many years. Motul is a higher performance oil, though.
Did you have to drain the oil first? I think mine is shattered. So there may be particulates in the housing.
No sir draining is not required, as all of the oil will be in the pan. However, if you suspect contamination as you mentioned, then a drain is absolutely mandatory. Don’t chance your engine’s destruction over $40 worth of oil 😉👍
@@HalfClickUp thought as much. My 96 XV 750's clutch crumbled. When I removed it.
@@christianmirabal5389 oh wow… original factory discs? If so, that’s a helluva impressive service life!!
@@HalfClickUp definitely OEM. They literally crumbled to dust . Ironically, right before my trip to Maine...just like this time. 🤣😂😅🤣
@@christianmirabal5389 well I can tell you that you’ll be happy with a Barnett kit, if you decide to go that route! I’ve been beating the hell out of this kit both on street and track and it’s legit 😎🤙
TOP 👍👍
👊😎
Good day sir. Followed your vid to a T. All was well for a while, now i am experiencing a rattle or grind when i pull my clutch in. I can really hear it if i pull the oil fill cap off. Ive tore back into the clutch, and I am noticing that my pushrod doesnt quite go in all the way. Any idea if this is normal? It doesnt want to go in anymore but everything else seems fine so I am kind of at a loss. I thought forsure the wire retaing clip came out but it is snug in its channel. Any ideas?
Hmm well, that push rod is adjustable, and in some instances the factory setting just won’t suffice once you install a new clutch pack. I’d reference the service manual and verify the shift rod notch on the left side of the bike is properly aligned, and make your pushrod adjustments accordingly. The process is outlined in pretty good detail in the manual.
@@HalfClickUp its honestly the only thing I can think of. Thanks for the tip, I didnt recieve a service manual when I purchased the bike but I will try and find a PDF somewhere. Take care
@@HalfClickUp its only out 2/16ths of an " and that doesnt sound like much but I feel it should sit flush. I will check the manual
@@kristopherwierikko4585 here you go brotha, free download:
www.manualslib.com/manual/761240/Yamaha-Fz6rc.html
@@HalfClickUp Your the man!
Did you have to drain the oil before all this?
It’s not required, but I went ahead and did because I wanted the oil that the plates soaked in to be the same oil in the bike. All or nothing 😎👌
@@HalfClickUp I had my clutch go bad and my FZ6 would not move at all. Replaced the clutch but still no power output, cycles through gears just fine. It can be in gear and it will stay on when I release the clutch. I will measure the plates maybe I have one that is slightly thinner just as you did. Not sure what else it could be. Thank you for the videos!
@@haroldt.2699 make sure the marks on the push lever are lined up before you tear back into it. That would be easy to rule out first. If you have to go back into it, make sure the pressure plate moves in and out properly when you squeeze the lever, and then make sure the first friction plate is installed half-phase.
@@HalfClickUp Can't believe something so simple had me sweating bullets. Didn't notice the adjusting nut had moved 🤦♂️. This fixed the problem and she's running better than ever. Thank you!! Awesome work you do for the FZ6 community
@@haroldt.2699 which adjusting nut was it?
Should link all parts to help
If you can man, be appreciated lol
@@TheDioblo2345 I used to do that until I realized links often become dead, especially if the best pricing is on sites like eBay. That’s why I begin every big tutorial video with an overview of parts and part numbers. Just let me know if you have trouble finding anything and I can shoot you a link upon request. Thanks for watching, I appreciate you!
Thanks man, appreciate it, have a 2011 fz6r that's been constantly hitting false neutrals especially 1st to 2nd, and slips from 2nd to neutral, plus doesn't quite feel in gear at third and fourth, adjusted the shift rod which I was told was a normal issue, but been having difficulty finding everything to do the clutch plates which I know are burnt (previous owner never changed the oil from what it seems)
@@TheDioblo2345 well lucky for you this is a fairly simple operation that shouldn’t be much of a challenge for ya.. just make sure you soak those plates before the operation!
Ain't my first rodeo with it, just my first fz6r and making sure it's smooth lol, appreciate your videos though man, thank you!
Hell yeah! I’m at 50k on my ‘12 fz6r, been thinking about this job but so far my bike is still doing it right. Awesome video. My fz6r has been the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned, bought her new and have made some epic trips. Get so tired of this bike being characterized as a starter bike... it’s just a really good example of a standard Japanese motorcycle that gets the job done. I love my old Ford truck and classic German car but when it comes to motorcycles I’ll stick with the Japanese and buy new if I can. Thanks for the vid, love your channel.
Right on brotha! I completely agree with you. I’m seven years in to my ownership of this bike and it has never failed me. Thanks for watching, and I hope my content helps you with your motorcycle journey!
@@HalfClickUp Are you still liking the 4 degree advance job that you did a while back?? I was not aware there was such an option, it looks interesting. I like the way my engine runs but if it had just a little more bite to the throttle that would be ok too... Just wondering if you think it is a change you can live with day in day out.
@@Lizpolygigiblissgirl yep it’s definitely worth it, and it really shines on the track with race gas! I ran VP Racing Fuels 101 octane mix in her at MSRH last weekend and it really screamed on the straights!
@@HalfClickUp very cool. I am probably going to do this in June. I’ll chime back in on how it affects my bike. Thanks a ton.
@@Lizpolygigiblissgirl just understand that you’ll be bound by premium fuel from then on out, so when this crap becomes $10 a gallon, it is what it is.