Preventing the Stove Pipe Jam - Part 1, Ruger Mark IV, Polishing the Bolt to Improve Bolt Timing
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- This is a quick 5 minute video, showing my polished Ruger Mark IV Bolt, or inner slide. Whatever you want to call it. Don't get all technical in the comments. Side note, I said Velorex for the extractor and the recoil rod and spring, I meant Volquartsen.
Getting stove piped on the firing line sucks. When shooting competitions, nobody wants to have to get an alibi as it eliminates your best shots depending on how many you have. So if you get two shots off then your gun stove pipes, you have what is called a two shot alibi. You then re-fire 5 more shots to get your total of ten for the round. You have fired 12 shots in total so you then have your two best scores removed. Ugh! Yeah, you don't want to have that happen. It's better than not scoring those 3 because of the stove pipe jam, but if you can prevent it from ever happening at all that is even better.
What is happening in the Ruger Mark IV, is that gun powder builds up on the bolt or inner slide. As the gun powder builds up on the slide it starts to slow it down causing friction inside the back of the gun. This messes with the timing of the slide or bolt however you want to say it. When the timing is off you then get a jam, typically on this gun it stove pipes.
The reason it is doing this, I think is mainly because of the finish Ruger has chosen to put on the inner slide. Gun Powder just sticks to it like glue and that really sucks. So by polishing the inner slide the surface of it is now so smooth it will be hard for anything at all to stick to it. This will allow the gun to continue to work any cycle in proper timing for much longer than the factory finish was allowing for.
I will update in the comments how may shots I take before I get my first stove pipe, but I think it will take a lot now based on how smooth the finish is now.
All it takes is a Dremel tool, a little bit of Mother polish and the cloth ring, I don't know what that is called sorry, and you are off to the races. I only had to do two rounds of polishing to it and the Dremel made light work of it. It took me about 2 hours in total and I think that two hours will be worth a lot more than buying an aftermarket bolt to improve the performance when the main difference I see in them is the finish. The factory finish on the Ruger Mark IV is mid at best, and the aftermarket ones are highly polished. So if you polish your stock bolt, bang, you save a bunch of money and hopefully I get the same results.
I will let you know in about 1 week from now, 5-13-24, so check back and I will have the answer as to if this worked or not.
Thank you and please like this video and subscribe to my page.
#rugermarkiv #gunmod #ballistixpro #polishing #pistolonly
Did you also mod the magazines? It's a really simple process.
@dogman_ yes, that is in one of the later videos. It changes the angle in which the bullets feed and ultimately finishes the fix to the jamming problem. The inner upper receiver and bolt still need polished as well though, otherwise you get gunpowder buildup on the bolt and inside the upper receiver which slows down the action and throws the timing off for the extractor to work efficiently.
ua-cam.com/video/jsWOdCqmTZk/v-deo.htmlsi=UVFnl3KEBK1-FIcd
Why not clean those parts were carbon builds up in between rounds?
That is a good thought, you can after round 2, as that is when people break for lunch during the competition. However, there is only a 3 minute prep period between rounds in which you are allowed to handle your gun. This is for the local competitions though, if it would be a larger competition they are not going to let you touch your gun minus the 3 minute prep period at all once the gun has been checked in. This is to prevent people from cheating.
Any issues polishing a blued bolt?
As long as it is made of stainless steel it should not cause you any issues. Bluing only partially protects your parts from rusting so you just have to remove the bluing first. I removed the bluing on my S&W M&P 2.0 barrel just for fun for instance and then polished it because I like the polished look. It's made of stainless steel and then blued it has not rusted at all. Of coarse it is steel so don't get them wet after you do that, even though it is stainless steel, stainless steel can still rust. Thus why they put the bluing on it.
Have you tried dry lubes like Teflon or Moly?
I don't think I have ever heard of anyone using a dry lube on a gun before. I would personally be afraid of it scratching the surface, maybe it would not. I really don't know that much about dry lubes. A little about graphite, but not really anything about Teflon or Moly.
If you do watch through the six part series you will see that the solution to the stove pipe jams for the pistol have been worked out and that I am no longer getting them. I made this series in hopes to help others with the same problem, and it is really a three part solution. Polishing the bolt, polishing the inside of the receiver and modifying the magazines so that the bullet goes in at a slightly different angle.
I think I have now put close to 750 rounds through my Ruger Mark IV without cleaning it and no jamming yet. That is probably not good practice, however I wanted to make sure it would last through an entire competition without stove piping. I have put almost every single kind of ammo I can throw at it as well, and nothing is jamming in it at all.
If you like this video, watch the rest of the series to see how the problem gets fixed. If you know of anyone with this gun that has the same problem, please share this video with them.
Thank you for watching and have a great weekend.
-Jason
@@BallistiXPro thanks. Already watched the whole series. I run a MKII Government Target and 22/45.
@@charlesmckinley29 - got it. Did the dry lube help you? Or have you tried any of the solves from my videos?
@@BallistiXPro I run wet and dirty. Mobile 1 is my lube of choice. An instructor I know says if it is good enough for the Army Marksmanship Unit it is good enough for him. I will try rounding the corners of the mags. My bolts are pretty polished from use. Both are 20+ years old.
@@BallistiXPro have you tried using a binder clip as a mag loader? Put the binder clip over the mag, then catch the button on the side of the mag with the edge of the binder clip and push down, release the binder clip so it grabs the magazine and holds the button down so you can load the magazine. I learned it from an adaptive shooter at an Appleseed Pistol Clinic. He lost the use of his left hand to a stroke.
Maybe its the parts you changed out🤷
If you watch the rest of the videos you can see what solved the problem. 6 parts in total. The custom Valquartsen extractor and recoil rod and spring kit are big improvements.