I got my first 10/22 as a kid for my birthday. Shot the crap out of it. Fast forward 20 or so years and I started to have light strikes. I thought maybe the firing pin broke, or perhaps just wore down so far over the years. While disassembling the rifle to investigate, I realized I had never done more than clean the bore and wipe down internal areas I could reach. I had never even removed the tigger group much less the bolt assembly. I had been worried that it was similar to the Mark pistol series which was notoriously finicky. So I dove in and fully disassembled it, discovering for the first time how easy it is to maintain. And also discovering 20 years worth of 22LR buildup crud that was causing my issues. Runs like a top again. Moral of the story: don't be afraid to tear into something. Videos like this are a godsend in that regard.
I for sure know about the Mark Pistol issue, I watched and video on the breakdown, made it look easy and my pistol was down for about six months before I finally got it back right. I have fired it a lot since then but have not took it apart again. Love how easy the Ruger 10/22 is.
Nicely done video. I've had a 10/22 for over 40 years, cleaned it hundreds of times, but I watched the video looking to pick up tips! Thanks Brownells for doing these videos
Mine is about 52 to 53 years since buying as my first gun for $49. Watched the video. He definitely runs the brush down the barrel more times than I ever have. Gun sure has stood the test of years and heavy use.
Caleb. Suggestions for a new video similar to this. Takedown, maintenance, and reassembly of a Mark II Ruger pistol. (Unless you have as much problem as I do with the reassembly and can’t fit it in a 30 minute video.) I will understand. 😎
I use a Hoppe's Viper Bore Snake for cleaning my Ruger 10/22's. That way I can still clean them from the chambers without having to have aftermarket receivers.
You make it a lot easier than I found it to be. It’s is simple, but knowing all the little tricks to get pieces to fit back together in re-assembly is the key. Thanks for making it so clear.
Got my 10/22 when I was 12. I am now 54 and to be totally honest I have never torn it apart to clean it. I know, I am a terrible gun dad but truthfully I have never had a problem with it in all those years. Guess it is time to clean it lol.
Excellent video and thanks for sharing it with us! I was scared to clean my Ruger 10/22 Takedown and thanks to you it took very little effort to clean mine. I am the proud owner of several Ruger firearms!
Thanks, I use the Otis cleaning kit with cables that can be pulled through from the breach end on a couple of rifles I own that you can’t run a rod from the breach end.
Outstanding instructional presentation! Most gun cleaning videos are aimed at folks who already know how to clean guns. Kinda like lawn mower repair videos are aimed at people who already know how lawn mowers work. Your video gives me some confidence I can get my new rifle taken apart AND put back together.
Ruger 3+ decades ago (before YT) used to have training sessions on the 10/22 (and MkI) to show us how to clean, maintain, and trobleshoot the firearms. Here is a quick suppliment to help out, based on Ruger. 1- Barrel and chamber should be cleaned and wiped DRY before firing. 2- Bolt should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry. 3- Receiver should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry. Both of those recommendations from Ruger were to limit the powder fouling with blowback 22LR firearms. 4- Recoil spiring is cleaned and wiped dry while jamming charging handle. 5- The bolt and charging handle are assembled differetly at the factory and by gunsmiths for easier assembly. The charging handle goes further back, and light finger pressure at the breechface is used to insert the bolt. 6- Ruger will NOT say this truth. Don't remove the stock, unless you have to for super cleaning or gunsmithing work. The attachment screw and/or barrel band bend the barrel, differently each time the stock is reattached.
Yes, with a caveat that some have or do shoot the crap out of their 10/22s to point of needing to. I've bought a few over the decades. Two have shot actually hundreds of pounds of 22LR ammunition, to point of showing extensive wear. I don't recommend the take down model for accuracy. But I actually was handed it by the president of Ruger when I bought it on the anniversary of the 10/22 model.
On the factory receiver, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the rear of it years ago. Simple to do, no special 'fixtures' needed, just measure twice - drill once. It's something Ruger should have done for us.
@@phillipleighton9641 I have a buddy who decided to propose to his GF when he caught her huffing his Hunters Specialty Fresh Earth cover scent wafters that he left out on the coffee table... Their wedding rehearsal cake was a replica of the scent wafer can... Keeper.
I’ve actually brought this up to my wife several years ago. She said not a good idea. So when I clean my guns I make sure to put a little behind the ears.
Two things I do beyond what is here. #1 is remove the extractor and spring, using the "Gunsmither" tool from Tandenkross. The extractor slot often acquires a lot of .22 crud. #2 is to use the same "Gunsmither" tool for bolt reassembly. Seems to make it easier to keep the bolt and bolt handle properly aligned (and squared), while fiddling the bolt handle lug into the bolt recess.
Back when I was working on missiles and bombs, they used blue for trainers and yellow for war reserve. That has been 24 years ago so maybe it has changed ; at least for anti-tank !
I have a small parts washer filled with parts cleaner fluid (mineral spirits) for gun cleaning. After washing i blow off the parts with compressed air. I clean the barrel with either a bore snake or cleaning rod like yours. I have a Bergara BXR Carbon I use for SCSA competition. It has the hole at the back of the receiver making using a cleaning rod easy. Periodically I attach a bronze brush to a modified cleaning rod connected to a drill to clean the carbon ring in the chamber. I do this rather slowly. I also use a right angle screw driver to align the charging handle to the bolt, making assembly very easy.
Bought my Ruger 10/22 brand new for $49 from Jensen's in Tucson back around 1971 or '72. It is one heavily used rifle. Worn out many a ten round magazine, but the gun still works as perfectly as the first day I took it out of the box. All original except for the sights, had to replace them with those fiber-optic Firesights due to aging eyeballs. I've done all the cleaning this video suggests, eventually. Mostly I take it apart and spray out with carb cleaner, then lightly oil. Run a brush and a patch down the barrel. All done.
I have a Dewey R-1022-H rod guide that fits over the muzzle end of a heavy barrel 1022. It works, but I since drilled the receiver to allow cleaning from the chamber end.
Its funny that the first firearm I had was a G34, and now I feel like I missed out on Childhood memories. Can't wait for mine to get to my FFL this week! Thanks for the walk through, Caleb!
When I run my Dewey Rod thru the chamber end of the barrel, I always unscrew whatever attachment, brush, jag, slotted tip before I pull the rod back thru to avoid any possible chance of damaging the crown. I heard there was a tool to aid in replacing the charging handle and bolt into the receiver. Does Brownells have such a tool?
I have great memories of the sent of hoppes #9 with cleaning guns with my grandfather years ago. a while back thought of making a cologne out of hoppes for gun guys🤩
The Ruger BX trigger won't go all the way to safe when the gun isn't cocked. So you can dry-fire the gun after making sure it's unloaded and the safety selector will stop at the halfway point.
Decided to watch this video for tips, and then had to ask myself, Did I clean my 10/22 after the last time I used it? I guess I will be adding that to the to-do list
I’ve always run a bore snake from breach to muzzle. I cringe when people ram brushes down the muzzle. Bore snake is least invasive and more effective. Send it down every 100 rounds or so. Put some hoppe 9 on the tail and some rem oil on the very end of the tail. Put bore snake in a ziplock sandwich bag for storage. When I take it down I spray it with gun scrubber wipe dry and I use a needle oiler to oil just the wear points. Too much oil is a magnet for powder residue. Just a drop or two on the slide a couple on recoil spring usually covers it. If your storing for a while I recommend spray oil and dry check once a year for rust wipe gun down with oily rag. If seeing rust take apart clean rust re oil and see if you have moisture problem in storage area. If you do move to spot where there is no moisture. If can’t look into moisture control products to absorb it. It’s really no science. Like any tool you wipe it down before you put it away and it will last forever.
Please do a video for the “ Receiver Drilling Jig For Ruger 10/22” which you mentioned in the video Also item is currently out of stock so please restock as well. 👍
When the video got to the part where you were running the brush in from the breach. Seemed to be zipping that back into the barrel really fast! Is that not a concern for the possibility of crown damage?
My fathers idea of cleaning his 10/22 was drowning the barrel with bore cleaner and letting it run its course hahaha When I received his 10/22 the bolt almost wouldn't come out. The amount of buildup in it was insane!
My father's 10/22 lived a similar life. I wouldn't be surprised if I was the first one to clean it. He had it before I was born. The first time I cleaned it in the 90s. It's a early one from first few years of manufacturing.
@@DB-yj3qc He had a ruger mark ii. I know he wouldve broken it trying to reassemble it, im definitely the first one to clean that one too. It was gross lol
I may be a little slow on the uptake here, but I’m wondering why you would be careful of the crown going in from the muzzle but not when you pull the rod back through going in from the breach.
Great vid. Makes it super simple to reinstall the bolt. Also, where can I get the drill guide to enable me to clean my 10/22 barrel from the breach rather than the muzzle?
Caleb, you made me feel a bit better. Putting the bolt back into the gun isn't easy. Not that you struggled, it's tricky. And the, putting it back into the stock. That's also a bit tricky. Great video. Now, what's the best way to remove lead from a barrel?
Thats nice you sell the jig for the hole,,here is a way simple solution to avoid crown damage and brissel splash in the receiver,,,just slide the cleaning rod down the barrel when you see it in the reciever take and screw the brush on and pull it out take it off and repeat,,
You were so careful when putting your brush tip in from the end of the barrel at the crown, but when you brushed from the rear, through that hole in the back of the receiver, you were not careful at all when you went through the end of the barrel and pulled the rod back through. I don't understand that. Am I missing something when you brush from the rear? Thanks
Great video! Would recommend you make a suppressed 10/22 version though. It took me ages to come up with a regime that would allow for more than 100 rounds fired without the gun stopping due to fouling. Using Hornady dry lube instead of any other lubricants was what worked for me. Doing so allows me to go about 1K rounds without any cleaning.
That big demonstration about the crown of the barrel, then you repeatedly pull the brush back against the crown without a care in the world. Which is it? 15:20
Don’t have one of these. Like ruger and 10/22. Was thinking about picking one up. Can get. 75 anniversary model for $299 stainless barrel. Sporter. Nice little gun. Already drilled for scope too. Wondering if this will go up in value down the road as a collector gun
You speak as if you have examined all new 10-22's that have left the factory well you must have been on vacation when my 10-22 left the factory because when I took it apart and turned it sideways the pins fell out next time you go on vacation make sure you have someone to cover your job.
much prefer Slip 2000 over Hoppe's. you also don't want to go from the muzzle to the action because you are pulling all the crud to the action rather than out the front, it is much easier to use some type of pull through like a bore snake or ripcord.
Good video I might have worn some gloves maybe in the future you can do a spring refresh for extractor and firing pin showing upgrades available first time seeing the drilled hole someone was thinking i was always mindful crown but thought it was overblown
Hi Caleb. I have always been under the impression that when you run your brush or jag down the barrel, you should only go breach to crown, and never in and out both ways. Whenever I clean a barrel, I make one pass, unscrew the brush or jag, carefully pull the rod out, put it back together and repeat. Am I tripping, or is there anything to this? Thanks. P.S. - I'm not OCD, but I am prior service.
Just curious if there's gonna be any videos on the trigger group (or if I missed it) such as installing an extended mag release or that upgraded bolt catch that was in another video
I'm no expert, so this is a legit humble question: would it help protect the crown if you wrapped the brush with a patch, below the bristles? Or would adding more girth with a patch cause more damage or be more of a headache than it's worth?
Where can I get the oiling bottle that you are using? I could use several of those to help with so many different types of solvents and oils I use to break down, refurb, and rebuild old firearms. I looked on the Brownells website but couldn't find it.
Brownells sells them, look in cleaning category, I think they are called needle oilers they come 3 to a pack and have a plastic cap that slides on the end to seal the tip. Some solvents and oils really soften the rubber seal under the metal cap, so don't overtighten the cap because it will deform the seal it's best to keep them upright when your not using them. Don't just toss them in your range bag. But they are great for your shop bench. One more thing it's nearly impossible to keep any kind of marker or ink to stay on the bottles and don't even think about a tape lable. Other than that they are great.
@@tubeonline629 Thanks I was able to find them once I went into the cleaning section. I tried to look them up from the home screen and they wouldn't come up.
I got my first 10/22 as a kid for my birthday. Shot the crap out of it. Fast forward 20 or so years and I started to have light strikes. I thought maybe the firing pin broke, or perhaps just wore down so far over the years. While disassembling the rifle to investigate, I realized I had never done more than clean the bore and wipe down internal areas I could reach. I had never even removed the tigger group much less the bolt assembly. I had been worried that it was similar to the Mark pistol series which was notoriously finicky. So I dove in and fully disassembled it, discovering for the first time how easy it is to maintain. And also discovering 20 years worth of 22LR buildup crud that was causing my issues. Runs like a top again. Moral of the story: don't be afraid to tear into something. Videos like this are a godsend in that regard.
I for sure know about the Mark Pistol issue, I watched and video on the breakdown, made it look easy and my pistol was down for about six months before I finally got it back right. I have fired it a lot since then but have not took it apart again. Love how easy the Ruger 10/22 is.
Thank you Caleb for a clear, concise no drama video on basic maintenance.
Nicely done video. I've had a 10/22 for over 40 years, cleaned it hundreds of times, but I watched the video looking to pick up tips! Thanks Brownells for doing these videos
Always learning.👨🏻🎓👩🏻🏫
Mine is about 52 to 53 years since buying as my first gun for $49. Watched the video. He definitely runs the brush down the barrel more times than I ever have. Gun sure has stood the test of years and heavy use.
Caleb. Suggestions for a new video similar to this.
Takedown, maintenance, and reassembly of a Mark II Ruger pistol. (Unless you have as much problem as I do with the reassembly and can’t fit it in a 30 minute video.) I will understand. 😎
I second that. Mine is completely disassembled pieces in a shoebox somewhere.
I use a Hoppe's Viper Bore Snake for cleaning my Ruger 10/22's.
That way I can still clean them from the chambers without having to have aftermarket receivers.
You make it a lot easier than I found it to be. It’s is simple, but knowing all the little tricks to get pieces to fit back together in re-assembly is the key. Thanks for making it so clear.
Got my 10/22 when I was 12. I am now 54 and to be totally honest I have never torn it apart to clean it. I know, I am a terrible gun dad but truthfully I have never had a problem with it in all those years. Guess it is time to clean it lol.
GREAT VIDEO!! THANKS SO MUCH! Don't think my 10-22 has ever been thoroughly cleaned. UNTIL NOW.
the timing of this is amazing, i JUST picked up a 10/22 yesterday, and my name is Caleb too! Amazing video
Excellent video and thanks for sharing it with us! I was scared to clean my Ruger 10/22 Takedown and thanks to you it took very little effort to clean mine. I am the proud owner of several Ruger firearms!
Thanks, I use the Otis cleaning kit with cables that can be pulled through from the breach end on a couple of rifles I own that you can’t run a rod from the breach end.
Outstanding instructional presentation! Most gun cleaning videos are aimed at folks who already know how to clean guns. Kinda like lawn mower repair videos are aimed at people who already know how lawn mowers work. Your video gives me some confidence I can get my new rifle taken apart AND put back together.
Wait a minute! Do you actually cut your grass?
One of the best videos on Ruger 10/22 very detailed and clear helps me a lot as a new Ruger owner
Ruger 3+ decades ago (before YT) used to have training sessions on the 10/22 (and MkI) to show us how to clean, maintain, and trobleshoot the firearms. Here is a quick suppliment to help out, based on Ruger.
1- Barrel and chamber should be cleaned and wiped DRY before firing.
2- Bolt should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry.
3- Receiver should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry.
Both of those recommendations from Ruger were to limit the powder fouling with blowback 22LR firearms.
4- Recoil spiring is cleaned and wiped dry while jamming charging handle.
5- The bolt and charging handle are assembled differetly at the factory and by gunsmiths for easier assembly. The charging handle goes further back, and light finger pressure at the breechface is used to insert the bolt.
6- Ruger will NOT say this truth. Don't remove the stock, unless you have to for super cleaning or gunsmithing work. The attachment screw and/or barrel band bend the barrel, differently each time the stock is reattached.
Yes, with a caveat that some have or do shoot the crap out of their 10/22s to point of needing to. I've bought a few over the decades. Two have shot actually hundreds of pounds of 22LR ammunition, to point of showing extensive wear. I don't recommend the take down model for accuracy. But I actually was handed it by the president of Ruger when I bought it on the anniversary of the 10/22 model.
This video looks like it came out of the 50’s!
Good teacher. Very patient with clear instructing points.
The Ruger 10/22 "Competition" does have a rear cleaning port.
It's also is a product of their custom shop.
On the factory receiver, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the rear of it years ago. Simple to do, no special 'fixtures' needed, just measure twice - drill once. It's something Ruger should have done for us.
They have to sell it through the video
11:00. I broke my set of cleaning rods going the wrong way so this info is very valuable
Why hasn't anyone made a Hoppe's #9 cologne??? Because yes it is almost everyone's favorite!!
Then, Sprinkle yourself with saw dust, and even manly men would find you attractive! 😂
LOL!
My Ex-Wife hated the smell so much I couldn’t use it in the house.
That should have been my first clue!
@@phillipleighton9641 I have a buddy who decided to propose to his GF when he caught her huffing his Hunters Specialty Fresh Earth cover scent wafters that he left out on the coffee table... Their wedding rehearsal cake was a replica of the scent wafer can... Keeper.
I’ve actually brought this up to my wife several years ago. She said not a good idea. So when I clean my guns I make sure to put a little behind the ears.
Coming from the army, the clp smell is etched in my brain. It reminds of so many things. It's funny while doing it not so fond, but now its better.
Two things I do beyond what is here. #1 is remove the extractor and spring, using the "Gunsmither" tool from Tandenkross. The extractor slot often acquires a lot of .22 crud. #2 is to use the same "Gunsmither" tool for bolt reassembly. Seems to make it easier to keep the bolt and bolt handle properly aligned (and squared), while fiddling the bolt handle lug into the bolt recess.
Bro got a casual AT4 chillin in his locker.
For $300-500 you can too.
That big yellow band. Means it doesn't go bang.
Expensive paperweight....
Back when I was working on missiles and bombs, they used blue for trainers and yellow for war reserve. That has been 24 years ago so maybe it has changed ; at least for anti-tank !
I have a small parts washer filled with parts cleaner fluid (mineral spirits) for gun cleaning. After washing i blow off the parts with compressed air. I clean the barrel with either a bore snake or cleaning rod like yours. I have a Bergara BXR Carbon I use for SCSA competition. It has the hole at the back of the receiver making using a cleaning rod easy. Periodically I attach a bronze brush to a modified cleaning rod connected to a drill to clean the carbon ring in the chamber. I do this rather slowly. I also use a right angle screw driver to align the charging handle to the bolt, making assembly very easy.
Very helpful guide, Caleb. Appreciate your thorough approach and your calm demeanor. Looking forward to more of your content.
I like the glass bottle of Hoppe's #9. I need one.
Not any more the QUART is plastic anyway...
Bought my Ruger 10/22 brand new for $49 from Jensen's in Tucson back around 1971 or '72. It is one heavily used rifle. Worn out many a ten round magazine, but the gun still works as perfectly as the first day I took it out of the box. All original except for the sights, had to replace them with those fiber-optic Firesights due to aging eyeballs. I've done all the cleaning this video suggests, eventually. Mostly I take it apart and spray out with carb cleaner, then lightly oil. Run a brush and a patch down the barrel. All done.
Are you still running the original barrel? If not, how long did it last? Thanks!
I have a Dewey R-1022-H rod guide that fits over the muzzle end of a heavy barrel 1022. It works, but I since drilled the receiver to allow cleaning from the chamber end.
Great video, yes please do the video on drilling the back out.
I may try that too. Bore Snakes work without having to drill your receiver👍🏼
Its funny that the first firearm I had was a G34, and now I feel like I missed out on Childhood memories. Can't wait for mine to get to my FFL this week! Thanks for the walk through, Caleb!
When I run my Dewey Rod thru the chamber end of the barrel, I always unscrew whatever attachment, brush, jag, slotted tip before I pull the rod back thru to avoid any possible chance of damaging the crown. I heard there was a tool to aid in replacing the charging handle and bolt into the receiver. Does Brownells
have such a tool?
I have great memories of the sent of hoppes #9 with cleaning guns with my grandfather years ago. a while back thought of making a cologne out of hoppes for gun guys🤩
Very nicely done. Straight and to the point, but informative. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and God bless
TIP: Differences in torque on the reciever skrew affect your point of impact and group sizes. Hence, have to rezero after cleaning.
I always swab the bore with a dry patch when I'm done so lessen the chance of any cleaning agents pooling on the bolt face.
The Ruger BX trigger won't go all the way to safe when the gun isn't cocked. So you can dry-fire the gun after making sure it's unloaded and the safety selector will stop at the halfway point.
Decided to watch this video for tips, and then had to ask myself, Did I clean my 10/22 after the last time I used it? I guess I will be adding that to the to-do list
I just use a bore snake on mine now to avoid the muzzle.
BORE SNAKES ALL DAY BRO
Me too ! 🪱
I’ve always run a bore snake from breach to muzzle. I cringe when people ram brushes down the muzzle. Bore snake is least invasive and more effective. Send it down every 100 rounds or so. Put some hoppe 9 on the tail and some rem oil on the very end of the tail. Put bore snake in a ziplock sandwich bag for storage. When I take it down I spray it with gun scrubber wipe dry and I use a needle oiler to oil just the wear points. Too much oil is a magnet for powder residue. Just a drop or two on the slide a couple on recoil spring usually covers it. If your storing for a while I recommend spray oil and dry check once a year for rust wipe gun down with oily rag. If seeing rust take apart clean rust re oil and see if you have moisture problem in storage area. If you do move to spot where there is no moisture. If can’t look into moisture control products to absorb it. It’s really no science. Like any tool you wipe it down before you put it away and it will last forever.
Please do a video for the “ Receiver Drilling Jig For Ruger 10/22” which you mentioned in the video
Also item is currently out of stock so please restock as well. 👍
Holding that charging handle in place while putting the bolt back in was a real pain in the ass the first time I did it.
Try it with a Ruger mk.3 or earlier pistol.
Thanks for the video, love the quality.
Another Great Video. Thank you!
Very helpful video. Thank you
When the video got to the part where you were running the brush in from the breach. Seemed to be zipping that back into the barrel really fast! Is that not a concern for the possibility of crown damage?
Yep...he was just yanking it back in, a little wobble and the damage would seem to be the same.
My fathers idea of cleaning his 10/22 was drowning the barrel with bore cleaner and letting it run its course hahaha When I received his 10/22 the bolt almost wouldn't come out. The amount of buildup in it was insane!
My father's 10/22 lived a similar life. I wouldn't be surprised if I was the first one to clean it. He had it before I was born. The first time I cleaned it in the 90s. It's a early one from first few years of manufacturing.
@@DB-yj3qc He had a ruger mark ii. I know he wouldve broken it trying to reassemble it, im definitely the first one to clean that one too. It was gross lol
I may be a little slow on the uptake here, but I’m wondering why you would be careful of the crown going in from the muzzle but not when you pull the rod back through going in from the breach.
Great Job with All the details! Keep up the Great Work!
Is that an AT4 on the safe box?
Why not remove the barrel from the receiver to push cleaning rod from the breach?
Great vid. Makes it super simple to reinstall the bolt. Also, where can I get the drill guide to enable me to clean my 10/22 barrel from the breach rather than the muzzle?
Caleb, you made me feel a bit better. Putting the bolt back into the gun isn't easy. Not that you struggled, it's tricky. And the, putting it back into the stock. That's also a bit tricky. Great video. Now, what's the best way to remove lead from a barrel?
A Ruger 10/22 Muzzle Guide. Model# R-1022-1 works well for protecting your crown while cleaning from the muzzle end. They're like 12 bucks.
Thats nice you sell the jig for the hole,,here is a way simple solution to avoid crown damage and brissel splash in the receiver,,,just slide the cleaning rod down the barrel when you see it in the reciever take and screw the brush on and pull it out take it off and repeat,,
The good old 10/22s have a band around the end of the stock and barrel before the action can be removed.
You were so careful when putting your brush tip in from the end of the barrel at the crown, but when you brushed from the rear, through that hole in the back of the receiver, you were not careful at all when you went through the end of the barrel and pulled the rod back through. I don't understand that. Am I missing something when you brush from the rear? Thanks
Great video!
Would recommend you make a suppressed 10/22 version though.
It took me ages to come up with a regime that would allow for more than 100 rounds fired without the gun stopping due to fouling.
Using Hornady dry lube instead of any other lubricants was what worked for me.
Doing so allows me to go about 1K rounds without any cleaning.
That big demonstration about the crown of the barrel, then you repeatedly pull the brush back against the crown without a care in the world. Which is it? 15:20
Don’t have one of these. Like ruger and 10/22. Was thinking about picking one up. Can get. 75 anniversary model for $299 stainless barrel. Sporter. Nice little gun. Already drilled for scope too. Wondering if this will go up in value down the road as a collector gun
Great video!! Thank you
New 10/22s the pins aren't just gonna fall out, they need a punch.
You speak as if you have examined all new 10-22's that have left the factory well you must have been on vacation when my 10-22 left the factory because when I took it apart and turned it sideways the pins fell out next time you go on vacation make sure you have someone to cover your job.
Loved this.
I use high pressure air to blow hoppe’s with dirt out of the receiver.
Same.
much prefer Slip 2000 over Hoppe's.
you also don't want to go from the muzzle to the action because you are pulling all the crud to the action rather than out the front, it is much easier to use some type of pull through like a bore snake or ripcord.
Good video I might have worn some gloves maybe in the future you can do a spring refresh for extractor and firing pin showing upgrades available first time seeing the drilled hole someone was thinking i was always mindful crown but thought it was overblown
Brownell’s used to see a guide to drill the hole in the receiver.
Magpul recommends 20 inch pounds in their paperwork for the stock
My father just recently bought the Ruger 10/22 magnum, I was wondering what your thoughts were on a recoil buffer pin for the .22 magnum?
Hi Caleb. I have always been under the impression that when you run your brush or jag down the barrel, you should only go breach to crown, and never in and out both ways. Whenever I clean a barrel, I make one pass, unscrew the brush or jag, carefully pull the rod out, put it back together and repeat. Am I tripping, or is there anything to this? Thanks. P.S. - I'm not OCD, but I am prior service.
That is addressed in the video.
Great video
Good Video. What is the alternative buffer ? Is it preferable to the stock buffer ?
I’m procrastinating on cleaning the cake frosting on my 10/22 since I got a suppressor. I’m curious how dirty I can get it.
Thank you good info,😁
How often do you need to strip your 10/22 like this?
I'd say very rarely. My 10/22 has been running for 15 years with only the most basic of cleaning.
My 25 round mag does not seat well. Any suggestions?
Just curious if there's gonna be any videos on the trigger group (or if I missed it) such as installing an extended mag release or that upgraded bolt catch that was in another video
Yes, there will be. We have them shot and are currently being edited. Thanks for watching!
@@brownells awesome thank you!
Is it really necessary to rezero after removing stock? I don’t see what would actually shift
I just learned so much thanks
Good video. Let's face it though, Hoppe's No. 9 could easily be a fragrance for men, only to be worn on special occasions.
The issue there is that you're only attracting other men.
@@brownells 🤣
What scope do you recommend for this firearm? The basic walmart one is junk and I couldnt get an accurate 0 with it at all…
great video! I would like to watch a video explaining this procedure for the Hammerli Tac R1 22lr
Was your cleaning brush steel or brass or something else.?
I'm no expert, so this is a legit humble question: would it help protect the crown if you wrapped the brush with a patch, below the bristles? Or would adding more girth with a patch cause more damage or be more of a headache than it's worth?
Great Video 💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Where can I get the oiling bottle that you are using? I could use several of those to help with so many different types of solvents and oils I use to break down, refurb, and rebuild old firearms. I looked on the Brownells website but couldn't find it.
Brownells sells them, look in cleaning category, I think they are called needle oilers they come 3 to a pack and have a plastic cap that slides on the end to seal the tip. Some solvents and oils really soften the rubber seal under the metal cap, so don't overtighten the cap because it will deform the seal it's best to keep them upright when your not using them. Don't just toss them in your range bag. But they are great for your shop bench. One more thing it's nearly impossible to keep any kind of marker or ink to stay on the bottles and don't even think about a tape lable. Other than that they are great.
@@tubeonline629 Thanks I was able to find them once I went into the cleaning section. I tried to look them up from the home screen and they wouldn't come up.
I’m trying to clean mine right now but the pins will not come out. I’ve tried a hammer. I’ve tried everything. They will not come out, any advice?
Is that lever mag release an option from Ruger for the 10/22? Thanks!
Bonjour, a quelle fréquence doit on effectuer ce nettoyage ?
Thank you
I have a very hard time believing Caleb is a gunsmith! His girly hands have NEVER seen a hard day's work!
He could prolly whoop you for sure
Helpful video
Looked for that model 10/22 you cleaned but unable to locate it on your website. Still available?
What is your opinion on ultrasonic cleaners?
Would a bore sneak work?
Please? What kind of weapon is this? Name, modification, bar code? Product?
Is that the red clay strays guy?
TIP: Use a cable and pull the brush and patches from receiver to muzzle. This way you're not shoving the junk in the barrel into the receiver.
Are you ever coming back to BR?
How can I lighten my trigger pull? I'm at around 7lbs. Garage sale Anchorage $50.
Why do we call the Crown and Muzzle, the same thing?
The crown is a specific area of the muzzle. Kind of like the nostril is a specific part of the nose.
Still have the M4 style 10/22 barrel?
Basically, if there is metal rubbing on metal, it requires oil. Just a schoosh!