And- the drama free, no bashing of other builders or products, the honesty, and humility are the reason I (and others I'm sure) are here to hangout. Keep it up Tinman!
Yes. And another little anomaly I see here, real tight chains that load the pto bearing, and skip chains on a short bar, thats like running a dull chain with a 572. Said for years, my mods on the 562's an 572's were about the 800lb gorilla in the room. Heat. that is and always will be the limit of reliable horsepower, the ability of the machine to maintain reasonable temps.
Yeah I always run a bit looser, sometimes the chain is getting old and too loose and might derail, that doesn't stop me from getting maximum use out of it: Vertical felling cuts to avoid weight of the tree settling on bar/chain :D
What a concept, run only with sharp chains! Your vid makes this more clear than anyrhing else! It's taken me years to now understand this extemely important point. Hat tip to Buckin' for helping educate me on how to file (now I can fee-hand!).
I bought a new 562xp in 2012. First auto tune saw my dealer sold ,he was hesitant selling them at first. Still running great all original except upgraded to new style air filter. But chain always sharp ,40:1 mix with quality oil. Has hundreds of hours, still has original EL44 carb. Recently bought a 2016 model also. Love my auto tune saws. ❤❤ Pat from northwest WI
Can only say that I am extremely happy with my 572 XP completely stock - a bit heavy compared to a 462, but also super reliable. No issues whatsoever with autotune
Rule of thumb I have; if the weight of the saw alone is not cutting the wood, stop and sharpen. You let the saw do the cutting, if you need to add pressure it is time to sharpen the chain. Also, learned a ton from Harvey (Iron Horse) Buckin, and you Tinman. You share a wealth of knowledge and I truly appreciate it. Just a firewood cutter who is hungry for knowledge and do things right. Looking at an Echo CS620p and on the fence about a CS7310. Heard a lot of good things about the Echo’s. A 572XP is also in the mix. Lol
The Echo 590/620 chassis has a great plan B. Dyno Joe and others have put Stihl 44 and 46 top ends on them. They’re a stroker so the jury’s still out on case flow letting them sing like a factory saw though. But cubes, yes. Also there has to be spares for days. It’s got an inboard clutch and my 27” bar has a Stihl 3/8 050 93dl chain on it. Get a bar adapter and run a Stihl bar… you can Husky too. But there are 10 Stihl dealers to one Husky in my neck. The new 7310 is the old 757? Echos tend to run de-tuned to a Husky or Stihl.
I run my 200T and my 661CM and the 10-10 mac ..always sharp chains. Runs all day, bit of a re-touch at lunch .. wonderful. You're right with the dull chain. Sharp chains, less heat, better cutting, less wear on your crank bearings. Better for the saw.
im from nova scoita where 16 bar seem the norm . i had a early 550xpg which blew up four times in seven years ....i dont wont another . i had a smart young man rebuild my old 346xpg ported muffler mod etc , wow sweet saw , thanks i enjoy your content
Nice video Tinman. We heat the house with "hedge" so I depend on my saws. Thanks to you, and other knowledgeable folks mentioned in earlier comments, I have learned how important it is to keep the chains sharp and the saws and bars well maintained. So far my 550 XP MK II and 562 XP have served me very well.
I have a Husqvarna 61 I bought new in1991. I did a muffler mod and I finally learned how to hand file and the thing is a cutting machine. I have a 565 professional auto tune and I also did a little muffler mod. Great running saw!
I've got the same saw, same year. LOTS of hrs and it never let me down. Just last week I finally put a big bore top end on it just because. A little aluminum transfer on the cylinder but otherwise perfectly fine.
Hey Tin Man, hope all is well! I have a Husqvarna 555, I have opened the muffler up a bit and keep the chain sharp…no issues…awesome saw. Great videos, keep up the great honest work bud!
You nailed it. I've seen guys push so hard on the smaller saws that the bars blued and than turn around and say its a junky saw. Home owners buy the cheep poulan and run a dull chain and blame it own the saw for not cutting. Use the saw for what its made for and keep the chain sharp and it will all work out. nice video
This is awesome, great video. I have a 272xp i bought in 92. It is just getting to the point where it needs to be freshened up. The moral of the story. 5 series are less tolerant to abuse.
I've seen this issue many times and most of the time it's operator error, keep em sharp lol and they'll last, this goes for all saws. Thanks tinman for the awesome video
Hey Tinman! Hey everyone else! Hope all is good for y'all. Everyone I know that has the 5 series are happy with them. As long as you read the directions, you shouldn't have any issues is the general consensus.
My 562 auto has been a glorious cutter. Hasn’t skipped a beat . Cuts like a banshee . Those units were neglected/abused . Prob didn’t warm them up either .
Nothing wrong with them at all. They need to be ran at 32:1 or 40:1 with good oil. The crank stuffers shield the bearings from getting oiled like non stuffed saws. Dull chains kill any saw fast but faster with plastic caged bearings. The mufflers are really choked up compared to yesteryear saws to make them quiet and need to be opened up
Did they not upgrade the bearings or are they still plastic caged? That’s what gave up on my mk1 560 I read somewhere they changed the design on the mk2’s Don’t hold me to that though, great bit of info, respect from the uk 🇬🇧
I have 3 5-series saws. 555, 592, 540 mk3. They're all amazing. The mk3 is ported by Red Beard, and its been great. The others are stock. They're also awesome. The 555 has a lot less power than the new 562 mk2, but still does better than a Stihl 362. Not quite as fast as a 400c. The new 562 mk2 wails both the 362 and 400c in speed tests. Honestly, I like the fact that they have a ton of power right from the factory, and wouldn't need to be ported. The fact that I can't get it ported to have 30% - only maybe 10 or 15% - more horsepower doesn't really matter if it's already like running a ported saw right from the factory. Just pull the spark arrestor screen, open up the muffler, and its a monster.
Thank you so much Tinman!! I recently got a 572xp with a 28in bar and this advice is invaluable. I'm also a fan of Buckin' and learned how to file from him, getting a lot better at it, and I now notice right away when someone's not running sharp. You're gold for power saw users. Love ya brother. Where can you get that ramhorn muffler?
Love my bone stock 572. Normal felling and cutting, a tank of gas lasts forever it seems. But do some noodles and the tank is empty in a blink of an eye. A sharp chain as you say, and some mechanical sympathy will get you a long way. Can't wait to muffler mod it, and then port it the Walker way in a year or two
Really interesting video. Back when we used saws a lot cutting firewood, we carried spare sharp chains. My late father was a stickler of having sharp chains all the time. He hand sharpened all of them himself. And we only ran Stihl full chisel chains. He was also a stickler of keeping the chains out of the dirt. Every thing I have gas tool wise has their muffler modified, except my echo commercial blower. I modified mine with 1/2”- 7/8” round ports, and have had their baffles drilled. Some even have dual ports. It definitely gets the heat out of them. And I only run Amsoil mixed 40:1 and none ethanol gas in everything. All my saws require hearing protection since they have modified mufflers. I don’t mess with porting the jugs. I don’t really need a hot rod saw.
Thank you Timman this has helped me out tremendously! I always run sharp saws but if I got dull I would lean on it to finish my cut not any more I will definitely stop sharpen or change chains! Thanks!
Have a buddy who bought a new 592 nothing but issues but has ran his 572 for a long time and never an issue. I think with anything else they have the good and bad and theirs some things you need too know.
Thank you for the information. I am running a 51 that has to be well over 30 years old. I bought it new. I know when my chains are sharp and when they are dull. But just can not seam to get them sharp. I learned a lot from this video.
My dealer told me this when I bought the 550 XP, these engines run at the ragged edge, like a NASCAR engine, get it HOT, IT WILL BLOW! KEEP IT SHARP. Muffler is horrendous for retaining heat.
I appreciate you in Tennessee it's hardwood I run 5 series, gotta be sharp,thanks for this video,and I relate to the diaper in bed of truck,that's a good daddy man ,thanks
Great info mate keep up your good work. I was cutting firewood one day and I noticed my chain had blued itself. First run of a brand new saw. Turned out my oiler was bad. Clutch was not blue but very hot. Caught it just in time. Now I believe it has a bad crank seal. Heat kills thats for sure.
Another good message to give people who don’t have time or maybe they have a problem with their hands or something and they physically can’t file is there is no harm in picking up a few extra loops of value priced chain and taking them to your favorite local saw shop for a few dollars worth of sharpening.they are probably good people to get to know anyway
I am so so about autotune. Had a couple of 550xp’s with crankseal leaks, I mean yeah it can happen. But it was within 3 years and not to many hours but the autotune part was fine. And then there is the t540xp… I had 2 and they were just haunted or something. Sometimes they run fine, but out of nowhere won’t idle, run too rich, won’t start. And like the problems come they also disappear that quick. Had lots of work done to them but it would not fix the issues. When you google you find a lot of these problems with t540xp saws. So for now I just run Husqvarna 3 serie saws (372, 394, 395). Also a Dolmar 7900. And for tophandle I switched to Echo. Great little saw with tons of power. Anyway love and appriciate your content, keep it up. Greetings from Holland!
This winter I could keep up with a professional logger using his 572XP. My 545 mk2 16 inch bar, with a sharp .325 chain was just as fast at the big rounds of a beech tree. Keep it sharp and it will eat!!
Top notch discussion and perspective as always!!!! I think the other dangerous combination is the dull chain run on a saw where the operator is from the "lean it out" school. Quick way to saw death!
Was bucking wood on Saturday with my 576xp , too much saw not enough power for the 28 inch bar so pulled it down and ported it sat night . Very surprised you think they are better than a 572 . Glad you said this as was nearly going to buy one , port job really helped it .
Love the video!!! Please keep this type of content and truth coming Tinman. Your thoughts are spot on. I am in the same boat as you with filing I used to be dull all the time. Buckin' opened my eyes and what a difference!!
100% Tinman!! I am no pro by no means bud. I made the mistake of lending my old Pioneer to a neighbour a dozen years back, I got it back with a super dull chain. He was digging it into the ground to cut out a stump. Never lending a saw out again…. Another neighbour was clearing some stuff and had a MS261, nice saw. He was having difficulties. Again, dug it into the ground and chain was dull as all heck. Told him to grab a beer, I took the saw and sharpened it as best as I could (still a total rookie at this time) and gave it back to him. He was thrilled at how it cut great again. Told him, keep it out of the dirt. He learned. Another neighbour up at the cottage, had a little 36cc Husky, didn’t cut well, sharpened up the chain, it had 2 broken teeth and he was somewhat back in business. He was amazed at how it cut again. Moral of the story, most homeowners don’t really know how to operate a saw properly or even safely. Dull chains are more common than sharp ones. I touch up the chain after every tank of fuel. 4-5 strokes is easier than 20-30 to sharpen a dull chain. Learned a lot from you, Buckin, Harvey and Donnie Walker. Keep it up and keep’r sharp!
Hey Tinman thanks for the video on the Husqvarna auto tunes …I have one a 572 and love it .What you say is totally true ,sharp ,the chains can never be too sharp. They do really cut but sometimes the revs kind of make me slack it back a bit . Don’t have to run it wide open anyhow. I switch out between my 572, and 372 xp ..old guy in B.C. doing firewood and shake blocks sometimes ..thanks for your content ..
Sharp chain is the key. And letting it breathe out the heat easier i found smart. Now i know more about this stuff, it is time to send my 550 mk2 to the porting doc... Hi from Norway.
I have an early 570 that's not auto tune and I didn't like it at first but after running it for a couple years and loaning it out for a few months it's really been reliable. Although it is pretty heavy. It's a couple pounds heavier than my 372. I also completely cut the muffler apart and removed everything and welded it back together with a pipe sticking out
HI TINMAN 😊😊 IVE noticed the newer saws are a bit heavier than the old chainsaws the same size they still have good power and pull good RPM the old chainsaws U should start the chainsaw up and let it warm up 1ST and when U are finished 4 the day let run and idle and cool off be 4 U cut it off / it has 2 cool off and get rid of the heat 😊😊 OMG 4 3 2O24
Hello Tinman! Thank's for this information. It's eye opening!! I worked as a pro with the old 550xp. Twice it doesn't come down with the rpms. In the first situation I felled a 45cm spruce and in the second I cutted bushes. After pushing the killswitch it started at full throttle again. I had to do it three or four times and everything was ok again. It was a dangerous situation. I never found out the reason. Best wishes to You from Austria! Wolfgang
This was a good video and you explained it very well! I have watched buckin and it helped me be sharper than I thought I could get lol. Sometimes it takes longer to learn the right way but it's worth it!
Another good video sir, hope you and the family are doing well. Just my two cents, My favorite go to saw is a MS441c, I believe it is a Intellicarb. I simply keep her sharp, blow it out with compressed air every other use(making sure not to blast the air filter tap it out if necessary) For the past 8-10 years I’ve had no issues I let it idle for a few seconds to warm up.
Amen, friend! Know which way and how much you lean! Pay attention to the science of combustion and friction of the cut vs. the collective agenda just bashing. You have to maintain your equipment to nature's reality regardless of how you identify (maybe you,re a Stihl man, not judging). Let the hard look at your wood guide a happy cutting experience!
Absolutly agree... in my experience doing firewood for friends and family no1 problem is dull chains and also general non maintenace like cloged filters old fuel etc.... Have a 550 mkII ported by donnie privatly runs like the Devil but also spend more time filling then cutting witch a lot of ppl dont understand but my saws are still running 👍😎
I love my 562. Im not a arborist but cut alot of wood over the last 2 years. I keep it sharp and run about 49:1. Its not a torq saw. It forces you to focus on your form and finesse. I wish i started out with this saw instead of my 290 /034/361. My body might be breaking down.. but im cutting bigger wood and more of it. with less stress on my body. Blow them out, grease the needle s and keep them sharp. This saw was out cutting a Stihl 362 on every cut on a monster oak from tornado clean up. The guy cutting with me. Would just stop and watch my saw run.
Well i run 372s all the time. I got a 575xp that was straight gased. Rebuilt it. Bearings 1 seal meteor piston. Gutted the muffler. Did a base gasket delete. Havent used it yet.
Public service message from the Tinman. No one has any reason to come after you for anything you said in that video. Although if everyone listened not many of us would ever get good deals on blown up saws. Lol. It’s wonderful to see how far you’ve come over the years. Good man with a good channel making good things happen for himself and everyone else.
yup. dull chains it's an big enemy! I did cut some big wood last year with my 372 xp in a hot day, with a 24 bar( not comun here cut with big bars ) and everyone come to me saying: you will blow the saw! But i have a nice cutting chain and i don't leane the saw! Nice video!
I bought the last ms660 in nz and it lasted 4yrs logging working hard and sold it when I went to engineering still going strong and it saw a number of late model stihls and huskies blow up 661s 390-94s absolute garbage if you got a husky block that stupid duct from the flywheel up so the pressure goes to the cooling fins,and knowing where a good torque band for a given saw through your chains hook and drag lies will make it last considerably longer although I was a Stihl man I have to say the ol husky low top 288xp was one hell of a reliable beast.
I had a 575 that wouldn’t stay running it would vapor lock not start not restart etc Got rid of it after 5 trips to the shop! I had a 550 same thing a month after the warranty ran out …of course they put a new carb on that I had to purchase and it ran great… sold it I figured that that was the future of auto tune constantly being worked on! I bought a 500i I had to have the fuel injector replaced then the injector pump! Traded it in on a new 585 primer bulb lines kept coming off and they repaired that….after several tries of tuning it due to the low end screw not responding either running too lean or too rich they replaced the carb I’m gonna run it and if it still gives me crap I don’t know what I’m gonna do! It’s not even auto tune! I have a 372 that’s 10 years old threw a new updated carb on it and it screams ! T
Tinman, good session, top tier advice. You do raise my interest in a muffler mod on my 562xp auto, just to hedge my bet on keeping 'er alive 'n well. It's about 4 years old bought new, been in reserve most the time while my MS 361 does the work. Time to put the 562 to the wood. Gonna look through your library for a video on muffler mods. Thanks much for the helpful info on here. A quick story: I'm from Oregon, been running saw since 14 in the woods, a farm, so forth. Always hand filed, was passable. Had a friend in BC who lived in the bush, ran a fishing camp. One year, my girl & I decided to stay there, let old Bill be a snowbird, get off the mountain for the winter. So I told him I'd cut and put up his firewood supply for his lodge and cabins, about 12 cords. Bought my new 045 with me, was touching up the chain. He asked to show me a tip, turns out that old man showed me how to freehand sharpen a tooth to cut like a scalpel, but last through darn near a full cord of mixed wood, throwing chips the whole way. After all those years, still learned something new. Miss that old Canuck.
I bought a 576 auto tune well over a decade ago, I bucked full time with it logging then I went to a fully mechanized logging outfit where I only buck the oversized logs a processor can't handle. It sits with old gas and no maintenance, starts 3rd pull every time and never once has it been in the shop!!
i'm alog and timber framer. I have 5 freshly sharpened chains in the truck and change chains every two hours. its faster than sharpening on the job. I have a gen 1 562 i've never had a problem
It's not just Husqvarna 500 series saw's that burn up with dull chain's, I've seen it all to often in all brand's and model's some being the best known and normally the toughest saw's built. Yes dull chains over tightened chain's bad mix ratio's rotten stale old gas and this is a big one most people overlook, guy's don't know when to back off and let a saw breath they will push a saw past it's operational limit's. Doing long big cut's and making one cut after another non stop will cook a saw, the more of a "hotrod" type of saw you give people the harder they push it. Even with a sharp chain you have to back off or pull up and give the saw a chance to cool a bit by juicing the throttle a couple times to get a fresh charge of fuel into it to cool and lubricate before getting back into the cut, for the love of god put it down and let it idle while you move some branches or blocks of wood then a saw has a fighting chance. Don't let the naysayers upset you to much their the ones that probably treat saw's this way to start with, anyways take care and keep building those saw's Tinman.
Strange video, most of what you are considering is the effect of air leak saw design or stratified saws, call them what you will. An electronic Carburettor is likely maped for efficiency its lack of user adjustment if that is the case is really its only downside. I prefer my own jetting on a saw and I like richer slow needle settings than most, snap off idle is not really the thing to me, to each there own thats why I like a manual adjustable carb. Keep up the great videos.
My 572XP gets hot and I do run sharp chain. But, when it gets hot is during big repetitive cuts in red and black oak on HOT days. On day two of its life the coil or whatever thay call it now was cooked. The OE clutch and cover and oiler and bar and chains were and still are in great shape, It throws chips like corn flakes, but it gets hot or it did get hot. I changed my evil ways; when working with it, I take a break more often and I DO NOT turn the saw off until it idles cool even if I have to restart it. Tinman, I did not consider the restrictive muffler, that makes sense, but I am not a metal worker. I wonder if there is an aftermarket muffler. On the other hand, my Echo 7310 does not run hot, no matter what, but I do run sharp chain always, I hate dull chain.
Hey Tinman, bit late to this video but I'd love a comparison between the 5 series and the current Stihl lineup. I'm in the market for a 70cc saw and all I ever hear about is the 500i - great saw for sure, but too expensive for me. Would be nice to see a 572 compared to a 462, 562 to the 400c, from a saw builders perspective. Cheers!
If that's a Husqvarna bar, they are blued around the outside when they are manufactured. To me, it looks like no maintenance, blocked oil or no oil in the tank, which of course needs filling every time you fuel , plus too tight chain. Other times when those clutches are burned out like that, the brake left on by some amateur and then rev the chainsaw up trying to free the chain. Not to mention running at 50 to 1 and low-grade fuel on these high compression chainsaw will always blow them up if they get hot.
Hey big guy. Greetings from North Carolina. I just re-read my owner’s manual and it says nothing about hot starts. What’s the correct procedure. I am a new 562 owner and don’t want to roast it. I have a 585 that I am still breaking in as well and I don’t want to screw something up. Thanks again for your help with this stuff for the guys like myself, who like saws but aren’t doing stuff with them all the time. I do appreciate your videos. Much love to you and all out there🤙🤙
The day a saw maker designs a saw with clutch side cooling as well will be a HUGE game changer! You would think the Germans or swedes would have figured something out by now, like an air tube going from flywheel over to the clutch side or something!
Would be interesting to know your thoughts on running very long bars on these saws, combined with less than perfect filed chains vs shorter bars that allows the saw to keep revs high and not bog
That’s a lot of valuable information, would it be worth it to rebuild a saw that has been abuse like the examples you have shown? To me it would seem like more problem’s may come up if you repair the obvious issues.
And- the drama free, no bashing of other builders or products, the honesty, and humility are the reason I (and others I'm sure) are here to hangout. Keep it up Tinman!
You nailed it, brother.
Thanks for the kind words. Just being me .
For sure I got nothing but respect for you and your character
Have you tried any piston porting of the zap yet sgar
Yes. And another little anomaly I see here, real tight chains that load the pto bearing, and skip chains on a short bar, thats like running a dull chain with a 572. Said for years, my mods on the 562's an 572's were about the 800lb gorilla in the room. Heat. that is and always will be the limit of reliable horsepower, the ability of the machine to maintain reasonable temps.
i hate a tight chain also
Yeah I always run a bit looser, sometimes the chain is getting old and too loose and might derail, that doesn't stop me from getting maximum use out of it: Vertical felling cuts to avoid weight of the tree settling on bar/chain :D
What a concept, run only with sharp chains! Your vid makes this more clear than anyrhing else! It's taken me years to now understand this extemely important point. Hat tip to Buckin' for helping educate me on how to file (now I can fee-hand!).
I bought a new 562xp in 2012. First auto tune saw my dealer sold ,he was hesitant selling them at first. Still running great all original except upgraded to new style air filter. But chain always sharp ,40:1 mix with quality oil. Has hundreds of hours, still has original EL44 carb. Recently bought a 2016 model also. Love my auto tune saws. ❤❤
Pat from northwest WI
Can only say that I am extremely happy with my 572 XP completely stock - a bit heavy compared to a 462, but also super reliable. No issues whatsoever with autotune
I just purchased a 572 XP myself and I love it starts runs it's the best big so I got
I will never get tired of videos outdoors w/ Tinman so beautiful there and thanks for another great video
Rule of thumb I have; if the weight of the saw alone is not cutting the wood, stop and sharpen. You let the saw do the cutting, if you need to add pressure it is time to sharpen the chain. Also, learned a ton from Harvey (Iron Horse) Buckin, and you Tinman. You share a wealth of knowledge and I truly appreciate it. Just a firewood cutter who is hungry for knowledge and do things right. Looking at an Echo CS620p and on the fence about a CS7310. Heard a lot of good things about the Echo’s. A 572XP is also in the mix. Lol
Go 572xp. Antivibe is the best I've felt.
@@karlruotsala8672 or maybe the vibe that you've NOT felt, eh?
@@davidvankainen6711 that's a great way to put it!
The Echo 590/620 chassis has a great plan B. Dyno Joe and others have put Stihl 44 and 46 top ends on them. They’re a stroker so the jury’s still out on case flow letting them sing like a factory saw though. But cubes, yes. Also there has to be spares for days. It’s got an inboard clutch and my 27” bar has a Stihl 3/8 050 93dl chain on it. Get a bar adapter and run a Stihl bar… you can Husky too. But there are 10 Stihl dealers to one Husky in my neck. The new 7310 is the old 757? Echos tend to run de-tuned to a Husky or Stihl.
You must have more time than some of us...
Spot on with the dull chain Tinman! No truer words have been spoken!! Dull chain is the Enemy!!
I run my 200T and my 661CM and the 10-10 mac ..always sharp chains. Runs all day, bit of a re-touch at lunch .. wonderful. You're right with the dull chain. Sharp chains, less heat, better cutting, less wear on your crank bearings. Better for the saw.
30 years of running saws, I have had no problems running the new auto tune saws!
im from nova scoita where 16 bar seem the norm . i had a early 550xpg which blew up four times in seven years ....i dont wont another . i had a smart young man rebuild my old 346xpg ported muffler mod etc , wow sweet saw , thanks i enjoy your content
Nice video Tinman. We heat the house with "hedge" so I depend on my saws. Thanks to you, and other knowledgeable folks mentioned in earlier comments, I have learned how important it is to keep the chains sharp and the saws and bars well maintained. So far my 550 XP MK II and 562 XP have served me very well.
I have a Husqvarna 61 I bought new in1991. I did a muffler mod and I finally learned how to hand file and the thing is a cutting machine. I have a 565 professional auto tune and I also did a little muffler mod. Great running saw!
I've got the same saw, same year. LOTS of hrs and it never let me down. Just last week I finally put a big bore top end on it just because. A little aluminum transfer on the cylinder but otherwise perfectly fine.
Hey Tin Man, hope all is well! I have a Husqvarna 555, I have opened the muffler up a bit and keep the chain sharp…no issues…awesome saw. Great videos, keep up the great honest work bud!
You nailed it. I've seen guys push so hard on the smaller saws that the bars blued and than turn around and say its a junky saw. Home owners buy the cheep poulan and run a dull chain and blame it own the saw for not cutting. Use the saw for what its made for and keep the chain sharp and it will all work out. nice video
that was about the best wisdom you could share with everyone
This is awesome, great video. I have a 272xp i bought in 92. It is just getting to the point where it needs to be freshened up. The moral of the story. 5 series are less tolerant to abuse.
I love the 5 series but I still personally prefer the 3 series
Completely agree, love my 5 series saws, run em sharp with motorcycle oil! Saw oil is junk and expensive. KLOTZ
I've seen this issue many times and most of the time it's operator error, keep em sharp lol and they'll last, this goes for all saws. Thanks tinman for the awesome video
Hey Tinman! Hey everyone else! Hope all is good for y'all. Everyone I know that has the 5 series are happy with them. As long as you read the directions, you shouldn't have any issues is the general consensus.
My 562 auto has been a glorious cutter. Hasn’t skipped a beat . Cuts like a banshee .
Those units were neglected/abused . Prob didn’t warm them up either .
Nothing wrong with them at all. They need to be ran at 32:1 or 40:1 with good oil. The crank stuffers shield the bearings from getting oiled like non stuffed saws. Dull chains kill any saw fast but faster with plastic caged bearings. The mufflers are really choked up compared to yesteryear saws to make them quiet
and need to be opened up
Did they not upgrade the bearings or are they still plastic caged? That’s what gave up on my mk1 560
I read somewhere they changed the design on the mk2’s
Don’t hold me to that though, great bit of info, respect from the uk 🇬🇧
I run all my two cycles at 32 to 1 20 oz and 5 gallons
I have 3 5-series saws. 555, 592, 540 mk3. They're all amazing. The mk3 is ported by Red Beard, and its been great. The others are stock. They're also awesome. The 555 has a lot less power than the new 562 mk2, but still does better than a Stihl 362. Not quite as fast as a 400c. The new 562 mk2 wails both the 362 and 400c in speed tests.
Honestly, I like the fact that they have a ton of power right from the factory, and wouldn't need to be ported. The fact that I can't get it ported to have 30% - only maybe 10 or 15% - more horsepower doesn't really matter if it's already like running a ported saw right from the factory. Just pull the spark arrestor screen, open up the muffler, and its a monster.
Thank you so much Tinman!!
I recently got a 572xp with a 28in bar and this advice is invaluable. I'm also a fan of Buckin' and learned how to file from him, getting a lot better at it, and I now notice right away when someone's not running sharp.
You're gold for power saw users. Love ya brother.
Where can you get that ramhorn muffler?
This goes into my essential chain saw video collection. Thank you
Love my bone stock 572. Normal felling and cutting, a tank of gas lasts forever it seems. But do some noodles and the tank is empty in a blink of an eye. A sharp chain as you say, and some mechanical sympathy will get you a long way. Can't wait to muffler mod it, and then port it the Walker way in a year or two
Thanks for the info. Looking at a 572. Thank you much.
Really interesting video. Back when we used saws a lot cutting firewood, we carried spare sharp chains. My late father was a stickler of having sharp chains all the time. He hand sharpened all of them himself. And we only ran Stihl full chisel chains. He was also a stickler of keeping the chains out of the dirt. Every thing I have gas tool wise has their muffler modified, except my echo commercial blower. I modified mine with 1/2”- 7/8” round ports, and have had their baffles drilled. Some even have dual ports. It definitely gets the heat out of them. And I only run Amsoil mixed 40:1 and none ethanol gas in everything. All my saws require hearing protection since they have modified mufflers. I don’t mess with porting the jugs. I don’t really need a hot rod saw.
Thank you Timman this has helped me out tremendously! I always run sharp saws but if I got dull I would lean on it to finish my cut not any more I will definitely stop sharpen or change chains! Thanks!
Have a buddy who bought a new 592 nothing but issues but has ran his 572 for a long time and never an issue. I think with anything else they have the good and bad and theirs some things you need too know.
Thank you for the information. I am running a 51 that has to be well over 30 years old. I bought it new.
I know when my chains are sharp and when they are dull. But just can not seam to get them sharp.
I learned a lot from this video.
Yup. Think you are dead on with this assessment. 10/10. Love your vids. Keep up the good work!
My dealer told me this when I bought the 550 XP, these engines run at the ragged edge, like a NASCAR engine, get it HOT, IT WILL BLOW! KEEP IT SHARP.
Muffler is horrendous for retaining heat.
I appreciate you in Tennessee it's hardwood I run 5 series, gotta be sharp,thanks for this video,and I relate to the diaper in bed of truck,that's a good daddy man ,thanks
Hey Tinman, thanks, great video always useful information. 👍 Have a good one.
Your introduction part of the videos is spot on funny 👍Love it, shows shows the Tinman I know loving life and his family with a passion ♥️👍
Great info mate keep up your good work. I was cutting firewood one day and I noticed my chain had blued itself. First run of a brand new saw. Turned out my oiler was bad. Clutch was not blue but very hot. Caught it just in time. Now I believe it has a bad crank seal. Heat kills thats for sure.
Another good message to give people who don’t have time or maybe they have a problem with their hands or something and they physically can’t file is there is no harm in picking up a few extra loops of value priced chain and taking them to your favorite local saw shop for a few dollars worth of sharpening.they are probably good people to get to know anyway
I am so so about autotune. Had a couple of 550xp’s with crankseal leaks, I mean yeah it can happen. But it was within 3 years and not to many hours but the autotune part was fine.
And then there is the t540xp… I had 2 and they were just haunted or something. Sometimes they run fine, but out of nowhere won’t idle, run too rich, won’t start. And like the problems come they also disappear that quick. Had lots of work done to them but it would not fix the issues. When you google you find a lot of these problems with t540xp saws. So for now I just run Husqvarna 3 serie saws (372, 394, 395). Also a Dolmar 7900. And for tophandle I switched to Echo. Great little saw with tons of power.
Anyway love and appriciate your content, keep it up. Greetings from Holland!
This winter I could keep up with a professional logger using his 572XP. My 545 mk2 16 inch bar, with a sharp .325 chain was just as fast at the big rounds of a beech tree. Keep it sharp and it will eat!!
Exactly! 100% on the money , dull chain dead saw ! great video!
Top notch discussion and perspective as always!!!!
I think the other dangerous combination is the dull chain run on a saw where the operator is from the "lean it out" school. Quick way to saw death!
Was bucking wood on Saturday with my 576xp , too much saw not enough power for the 28 inch bar so pulled it down and ported it sat night . Very surprised you think they are better than a 572 . Glad you said this as was nearly going to buy one , port job really helped it .
I have a 455 rancher and absolutely love it cuts great lots of power I like husqvarna
That last couple years I have been working on my hand filling. What a game changer.
Love the video!!! Please keep this type of content and truth coming Tinman. Your thoughts are spot on. I am in the same boat as you with filing I used to be dull all the time. Buckin' opened my eyes and what a difference!!
100% Tinman!! I am no pro by no means bud. I made the mistake of lending my old Pioneer to a neighbour a dozen years back, I got it back with a super dull chain. He was digging it into the ground to cut out a stump. Never lending a saw out again…. Another neighbour was clearing some stuff and had a MS261, nice saw. He was having difficulties. Again, dug it into the ground and chain was dull as all heck. Told him to grab a beer, I took the saw and sharpened it as best as I could (still a total rookie at this time) and gave it back to him. He was thrilled at how it cut great again. Told him, keep it out of the dirt. He learned. Another neighbour up at the cottage, had a little 36cc Husky, didn’t cut well, sharpened up the chain, it had 2 broken teeth and he was somewhat back in business. He was amazed at how it cut again. Moral of the story, most homeowners don’t really know how to operate a saw properly or even safely. Dull chains are more common than sharp ones. I touch up the chain after every tank of fuel. 4-5 strokes is easier than 20-30 to sharpen a dull chain. Learned a lot from you, Buckin, Harvey and Donnie Walker. Keep it up and keep’r sharp!
Hey Tinman thanks for the video on the Husqvarna auto tunes …I have one a 572 and love it .What you say is totally true ,sharp ,the chains can never be too sharp. They do really cut but sometimes the revs kind of make me slack it back a bit . Don’t have to run it wide open anyhow. I switch out between my 572, and 372 xp ..old guy in B.C. doing firewood and shake blocks sometimes ..thanks for your content ..
Sharp chain is the key. And letting it breathe out the heat easier i found smart. Now i know more about this stuff, it is time to send my 550 mk2 to the porting doc... Hi from Norway.
I’ve been hauling decent amounts of them from the scrap piles around my area 👍
I have an early 570 that's not auto tune and I didn't like it at first but after running it for a couple years and loaning it out for a few months it's really been reliable. Although it is pretty heavy. It's a couple pounds heavier than my 372. I also completely cut the muffler apart and removed everything and welded it back together with a pipe sticking out
HI TINMAN 😊😊 IVE noticed the newer saws are a bit heavier than the old chainsaws the same size they still have good power and pull good RPM the old chainsaws U should start the chainsaw up and let it warm up 1ST and when U are finished 4 the day let run and idle and cool off be 4 U cut it off / it has 2 cool off and get rid of the heat 😊😊 OMG 4 3 2O24
if the saw doesn’t pull itself thru the wood….Stop! sharpen! I luv my 555 autotune, it rips!
Hello Tinman! Thank's for this information. It's eye opening!! I worked as a pro with the old 550xp. Twice it doesn't come down with the rpms. In the first situation I felled a 45cm spruce and in the second I cutted bushes. After pushing the killswitch it started at full throttle again. I had to do it three or four times and everything was ok again. It was a dangerous situation. I never found out the reason. Best wishes to You from Austria! Wolfgang
This was a good video and you explained it very well! I have watched buckin and it helped me be sharper than I thought I could get lol. Sometimes it takes longer to learn the right way but it's worth it!
Another good video sir, hope you and the family are doing well.
Just my two cents,
My favorite go to saw is a MS441c, I believe it is a Intellicarb.
I simply keep her sharp, blow it out with compressed air every other use(making sure not to blast the air filter tap it out if necessary)
For the past 8-10 years I’ve had no issues I let it idle for a few seconds to warm up.
Well said tinman couldn’t have said it better myself sharp chain and raker gauge!!❤❤❤
Amen, friend! Know which way and how much you lean! Pay attention to the science of combustion and friction of the cut vs. the collective agenda just bashing. You have to maintain your equipment to nature's reality regardless of how you identify (maybe you,re a Stihl man, not judging). Let the hard look at your wood guide a happy cutting experience!
I piped my 576xp non AT for no other reason than to reduce heat...and it sounds awesome too!
Absolutly agree... in my experience doing firewood for friends and family no1 problem is dull chains and also general non maintenace like cloged filters old fuel etc....
Have a 550 mkII ported by donnie privatly runs like the Devil but also spend more time filling then cutting witch a lot of ppl dont understand but my saws are still running 👍😎
Sorry for my english btw... greetings from Germany 😅
I love my 562. Im not a arborist but cut alot of wood over the last 2 years. I keep it sharp and run about 49:1. Its not a torq saw. It forces you to focus on your form and finesse. I wish i started out with this saw instead of my 290 /034/361. My body might be breaking down.. but im cutting bigger wood and more of it. with less stress on my body. Blow them out, grease the needle s and keep them sharp.
This saw was out cutting a Stihl 362 on every cut on a monster oak from tornado clean up. The guy cutting with me. Would just stop and watch my saw run.
Well i run 372s all the time. I got a 575xp that was straight gased. Rebuilt it. Bearings 1 seal meteor piston. Gutted the muffler. Did a base gasket delete. Havent used it yet.
Iron horse and donny walker are living legends you are lucky to be able to pick their minds if you have a question and ripsaw does great work as well
Can't leave Buckin out he is a legend in his own right
Public service message from the Tinman. No one has any reason to come after you for anything you said in that video. Although if everyone listened not many of us would ever get good deals on blown up saws. Lol.
It’s wonderful to see how far you’ve come over the years. Good man with a good channel making good things happen for himself and everyone else.
The 562xp is a great saw for limbing and falling, when it comes to bucking it is capable however it can be pushed to overheating fairly easily.
yup. dull chains it's an big enemy! I did cut some big wood last year with my 372 xp in a hot day, with a 24 bar( not comun here cut with big bars ) and everyone come to me saying: you will blow the saw! But i have a nice cutting chain and i don't leane the saw! Nice video!
I briefly owned a 575, I couldn't sell it fast enough.
You can buy one, but that's different to whether someone should. There's lots of of other reliable saws out there.
I bought the last ms660 in nz and it lasted 4yrs logging working hard and sold it when I went to engineering still going strong and it saw a number of late model stihls and huskies blow up 661s 390-94s absolute garbage if you got a husky block that stupid duct from the flywheel up so the pressure goes to the cooling fins,and knowing where a good torque band for a given saw through your chains hook and drag lies will make it last considerably longer although I was a Stihl man I have to say the ol husky low top 288xp was one hell of a reliable beast.
a sharp chain and a opened up exhaust, on every saw i have i run 20 30 year old saws open up the exhaust just like new
Great tailgate talk! Doesn't get any more non offensive and to the point than that👍🏻
I had a 575 that wouldn’t stay running it would vapor lock not start not restart etc
Got rid of it after 5 trips to the shop!
I had a 550 same thing a month after the warranty ran out …of course they put a new carb on that I had to purchase and it ran great… sold it I figured that that was the future of auto tune constantly being worked on!
I bought a 500i I had to have the fuel injector replaced then the injector pump! Traded it in on a new 585 primer bulb lines kept coming off and they repaired that….after several tries of tuning it due to the low end screw not responding either running too lean or too rich they replaced the carb I’m gonna run it and if it still gives me crap I don’t know what I’m gonna do!
It’s not even auto tune!
I have a 372 that’s 10 years old threw a new updated carb on it and it screams !
T
Tinman, good session, top tier advice. You do raise my interest in a muffler mod on my 562xp auto, just to hedge my bet on keeping 'er alive 'n well. It's about 4 years old bought new, been in reserve most the time while my MS 361 does the work. Time to put the 562 to the wood. Gonna look through your library for a video on muffler mods. Thanks much for the helpful info on here. A quick story:
I'm from Oregon, been running saw since 14 in the woods, a farm, so forth. Always hand filed, was passable. Had a friend in BC who lived in the bush, ran a fishing camp. One year, my girl & I decided to stay there, let old Bill be a snowbird, get off the mountain for the winter. So I told him I'd cut and put up his firewood supply for his lodge and cabins, about 12 cords. Bought my new 045 with me, was touching up the chain. He asked to show me a tip, turns out that old man showed me how to freehand sharpen a tooth to cut like a scalpel, but last through darn near a full cord of mixed wood, throwing chips the whole way. After all those years, still learned something new. Miss that old Canuck.
I noticed a lot of the people having problems can't sharpen a chain properly
I bought a 576 auto tune well over a decade ago, I bucked full time with it logging then I went to a fully mechanized logging outfit where I only buck the oversized logs a processor can't handle. It sits with old gas and no maintenance, starts 3rd pull every time and never once has it been in the shop!!
i'm alog and timber framer. I have 5 freshly sharpened chains in the truck and change chains every two hours. its faster than sharpening on the job. I have a gen 1 562 i've never had a problem
Well Tinman, the only thing I think you need to improve upon is your 🤸♂️ cartwheels. Other then that, keep up the great work! 😂😂😂😂
Thanks.....
Thank you for the info
It's not just Husqvarna 500 series saw's that burn up with dull chain's, I've seen it all to often in all brand's and model's some being the best known and normally the toughest saw's built. Yes dull chains over tightened chain's bad mix ratio's rotten stale old gas and this is a big one most people overlook, guy's don't know when to back off and let a saw breath they will push a saw past it's operational limit's. Doing long big cut's and making one cut after another non stop will cook a saw, the more of a "hotrod" type of saw you give people the harder they push it. Even with a sharp chain you have to back off or pull up and give the saw a chance to cool a bit by juicing the throttle a couple times to get a fresh charge of fuel into it to cool and lubricate before getting back into the cut, for the love of god put it down and let it idle while you move some branches or blocks of wood then a saw has a fighting chance. Don't let the naysayers upset you to much their the ones that probably treat saw's this way to start with, anyways take care and keep building those saw's Tinman.
Strange video, most of what you are considering is the effect of air leak saw design or stratified saws, call them what you will.
An electronic Carburettor is likely maped for efficiency its lack of user adjustment if that is the case is really its only downside. I prefer my own jetting on a saw and I like richer slow needle settings than most, snap off idle is not really the thing to me, to each there own thats why I like a manual adjustable carb. Keep up the great videos.
Don't have any Husqvarna saws but had a mower once😅
Auto tunes are awesome I would run one every day
I run chainsaws for a living and auto-tune has done me right over the years. Keep the change sharp and mix your oil 40:1.
My 572XP gets hot and I do run sharp chain. But, when it gets hot is during big repetitive cuts in red and black oak on HOT days. On day two of its life the coil or whatever thay call it now was cooked. The OE clutch and cover and oiler and bar and chains were and still are in great shape, It throws chips like corn flakes, but it gets hot or it did get hot. I changed my evil ways; when working with it, I take a break more often and I DO NOT turn the saw off until it idles cool even if I have to restart it. Tinman, I did not consider the restrictive muffler, that makes sense, but I am not a metal worker. I wonder if there is an aftermarket muffler. On the other hand, my Echo 7310 does not run hot, no matter what, but I do run sharp chain always, I hate dull chain.
Imagine the sales when husqvarna makes the "666 diablo " !
Good video bud your a good man and father🪵👍🥸
Hey Tinman, bit late to this video but I'd love a comparison between the 5 series and the current Stihl lineup. I'm in the market for a 70cc saw and all I ever hear about is the 500i - great saw for sure, but too expensive for me. Would be nice to see a 572 compared to a 462, 562 to the 400c, from a saw builders perspective. Cheers!
Talk to Donny about the nylon bearing cages.
If that's a Husqvarna bar, they are blued around the outside when they are manufactured. To me, it looks like no maintenance, blocked oil or no oil in the tank, which of course needs filling every time you fuel , plus too tight chain. Other times when those clutches are burned out like that, the brake left on by some amateur and then rev the chainsaw up trying to free the chain. Not to mention running at 50 to 1 and low-grade fuel on these high compression chainsaw will always blow them up if they get hot.
All in sharpening !!
Hey big guy. Greetings from North Carolina. I just re-read my owner’s manual and it says nothing about hot starts. What’s the correct procedure. I am a new 562 owner and don’t want to roast it. I have a 585 that I am still breaking in as well and I don’t want to screw something up. Thanks again for your help with this stuff for the guys like myself, who like saws but aren’t doing stuff with them all the time. I do appreciate your videos. Much love to you and all out there🤙🤙
Hey, put the saw on fast idle and pump the primer bulb several times then pull it over and it will start every time.
The day a saw maker designs a saw with clutch side cooling as well will be a HUGE game changer! You would think the Germans or swedes would have figured something out by now, like an air tube going from flywheel over to the clutch side or something!
Actually on the mark II 5 series saws they did add a air channel to cool the crankcase more. I think I heard it from a husky rep.
I love my 562xp, 6 years and never ya hiccup!
Would be interesting to know your thoughts on running very long bars on these saws, combined with less than perfect filed chains vs shorter bars that allows the saw to keep revs high and not bog
You can definitely bog down and burn up a saw running a shorter bar. It's probably more about the operator than the length of bar.
Excellent advice 👍🏻
Thanks
I love my 592xp
Dull chains kill saws no doubt about it and heat i always open up mufflers especially on any saw my buddy tree service
That’s a lot of valuable information, would it be worth it to rebuild a saw that has been abuse like the examples you have shown? To me it would seem like more problem’s may come up if you repair the obvious issues.