this was the best video to get me on track with my m3 leaking. I even managed away to move the axle away by halfways removing swaybar and not completely
Top notch video sir! Very much appreciated as I am In the middle of doing this job now. Thanks also for the torque specs. I have two questions. 1. What bolts did you have to put the propane torch to? 2. How many ft/lbs did you torque down the axle nut. My torque wrench only goes to 150ft/lbs and 97 M3 requires 221ft/lbs.
Thank you! Glad the video helps. I only torched bolts that were either corroded or harder to get a solid grip on with a socket or wrench just to minimize the risk to snap them or round them off. Regardless be very careful of where you use heat (don't want to catch any existing seals/bushings on fire haha). I do not recall the torque specs off the top of my head, but I remember looking them up on Bimmerforums and/or the E36 bentley manual. I feel you with the torque issues. For any high torque applications I just borrow a good torque wrench from a shop or tech friend.
Thank you sir! Just got that upper sway bar bracket bolt off with some PB Blaster. I let it sit overnight, but I have the luxury of time. Thanks for the great video by the way. Great editing and sound.
Very nice Job and good video. I just had to replace my rear ABS rings because of rust and was hitting my abs sensors... through the whole car off! Anyway you mention you were getting a whiny sound? My X3 is getting a high pitch whinny whistling noise at around 30 mph and and usually stops after ten minutes of driving, comes and goes, louder when it’s cold. Sound travels so it’s very hard to pin point. My question is did your noise sound somewhat similar. I plan to change the diff seals soon. Thanks in advance.
Great job and explanation! Do you know how to replace rear axle seals on BMW X5 F15? Do I need to take the whole differential down or can replace it while diff is in place? Thanks!
so, i manual swapped my e36 and put a 3.15 LSD in it. since i'm on 328 axles and the diff came off a 325, i also swapped the flanges. I didn't, however, take off the diff cover and redo the seals. when i was under my car to do an exhaust and take my driveshaft out to get rebuilt, i noticed a lot of hard, black grese/dirt coating the bottom of my differential, which was not there when i put the diff in. there's also a lot of the same stuff around the boot on the axle. would the seals fix this? haven't driven the car enough to hear diff whining but then again, I'm EXTREMELY hesitant about doing press fits by pipe and hammer; I tried to do my center support bearing myself and ended up just breaking it even more, so i took it to the driveshaft shop and had them rebuild it. if you've done a center support bearing yourself, how much harder, or easier, was this seal? I bet it'll fix my issues but I'm just super hesitant because I don't wanna break something again.
I would definitely recommend replacing the seals to resolve the oil/grit issue with your diff. You don't need to use the janky method that I used, but basically as long as the new seal goes in straight, you should be fine. I've never done the center driveshaft beating myself, but its on the list of to do's for the future . However that center bearing wouldn't cause any grease or grit to coat undercarriage componentry. But a bad center support bearing would cause some cabin vibrations/rattles as you drive. I can't imagine it's more difficult that the diff seals as you can replace the entire part with the bracket so there's no need to press fit anything, just gotta take the driveshaft apart if I'm thinking correctly. That being said the driveshafts in these cars do require rebuilds long term so it's great you're already doing that thru a shop! Pricey, but nice to know the part gets services with the right tools
@@Pawinning my u joints were already gone, and yes, even with the rubber housing the center bearing needs to be pressed. I highly advise getting a new bearing and u joints, especially since all the extra power from the turbo motor is all put on the u joints. they're welded in as well, so unless you wanna cut and press and weld new joints in it turned out easier to have it rebuilt.
Pawinning update: i was a wimp when i was in high school and after working at a shop this is all very easy. i do have a question though: is the snap ring the difference between the m3 diff and a 3 series? i’ve got a 3.15 LSD from a 325 and i could take everything out without changing that snap ring. i’m confused as to why you took yours out?
What's up Pawinning, got a question for ya. I have a e46 and I know the e36 is similar, but is the driveshaft input seal the same as the axle input seal removal/replacing? I really can't find to much on the web for this and my car is leaking bad at this point of the differential.
+Julian McAlister it is similar. Just the hardest part is pulling the seal out then torquing the large nut at the front to 127ft-lbs if I remember it correctly. You can avoid that by marking the currently nut location, if there aren't any markings already
Where did you order the seal and spring retainer from? I need the new retainer because my axle is slipping out, but might as well replace the seal too.
@@orestesocks Trick was to put the snap ring into the differential first, NOT on the stub shaft. (i also realize this thread is now 4 years old so HOPEULLY you figured it out by now. haha)
Thought we wouldn't notice the convenient editing of not showing how to install the stub shaft into the differential....we did.
this was the best video to get me on track with my m3 leaking. I even managed away to move the axle away by halfways removing swaybar and not completely
Is your car a F80? I'm gonna need to do this on my F80 and was wondering if the steps are similar...
Just did on a e36 z3, removed axle, axle flange, seal and reinstalled. Thanks for video.
Dude looks like a doctor! Lol. Great vid...and glad to see young people wrenching.
Your videos are a godsend for us visual learners!
Top notch video sir! Very much appreciated as I am In the middle of doing this job now. Thanks also for the torque specs. I have two questions. 1. What bolts did you have to put the propane torch to? 2. How many ft/lbs did you torque down the axle nut. My torque wrench only goes to 150ft/lbs and 97 M3 requires 221ft/lbs.
Thank you! Glad the video helps. I only torched bolts that were either corroded or harder to get a solid grip on with a socket or wrench just to minimize the risk to snap them or round them off. Regardless be very careful of where you use heat (don't want to catch any existing seals/bushings on fire haha).
I do not recall the torque specs off the top of my head, but I remember looking them up on Bimmerforums and/or the E36 bentley manual.
I feel you with the torque issues. For any high torque applications I just borrow a good torque wrench from a shop or tech friend.
Thank you sir! Just got that upper sway bar bracket bolt off with some PB Blaster. I let it sit overnight, but I have the luxury of time. Thanks for the great video by the way. Great editing and sound.
@@DonBMW you're welcome! I'm glad you got a project car build carried out on a relaxed timeline 😎. Thank you for your compilments! Cheers!
Awesome video ! Very well made, keep it up !!
DanMk2 thank you!
Thanks bro gonna order seal today very informative u the man
You're welcome, thanks man 🙏
Very nice Job and good video. I just had to replace my rear ABS rings because of rust and was hitting my abs sensors... through the whole car off! Anyway you mention you were getting a whiny sound? My X3 is getting a high pitch whinny whistling noise at around 30 mph and and usually stops after ten minutes of driving, comes and goes, louder when it’s cold. Sound travels so it’s very hard to pin point. My question is did your noise sound somewhat similar. I plan to change the diff seals soon. Thanks in advance.
so glad I don't live in salty MA anymore!
Also done with New England weather 😂
Pawinning my 95 M3 has been in the South most of its life, still like new underneath, not a spot of rust anywhere.
Great job and explanation! Do you know how to replace rear axle seals on BMW X5 F15? Do I need to take the whole differential down or can replace it while diff is in place? Thanks!
maybe a dumb question but how did u put the snap ring in ? same way took it out ? or put it on the shafts themselves? struggling lol
Did you ever figure this out? I'm trying to figure it out. Thanks!
Top notch...Good man yourself!
so, i manual swapped my e36 and put a 3.15 LSD in it. since i'm on 328 axles and the diff came off a 325, i also swapped the flanges. I didn't, however, take off the diff cover and redo the seals. when i was under my car to do an exhaust and take my driveshaft out to get rebuilt, i noticed a lot of hard, black grese/dirt coating the bottom of my differential, which was not there when i put the diff in. there's also a lot of the same stuff around the boot on the axle. would the seals fix this? haven't driven the car enough to hear diff whining but then again, I'm EXTREMELY hesitant about doing press fits by pipe and hammer; I tried to do my center support bearing myself and ended up just breaking it even more, so i took it to the driveshaft shop and had them rebuild it. if you've done a center support bearing yourself, how much harder, or easier, was this seal? I bet it'll fix my issues but I'm just super hesitant because I don't wanna break something again.
I would definitely recommend replacing the seals to resolve the oil/grit issue with your diff. You don't need to use the janky method that I used, but basically as long as the new seal goes in straight, you should be fine. I've never done the center driveshaft beating myself, but its on the list of to do's for the future . However that center bearing wouldn't cause any grease or grit to coat undercarriage componentry. But a bad center support bearing would cause some cabin vibrations/rattles as you drive. I can't imagine it's more difficult that the diff seals as you can replace the entire part with the bracket so there's no need to press fit anything, just gotta take the driveshaft apart if I'm thinking correctly. That being said the driveshafts in these cars do require rebuilds long term so it's great you're already doing that thru a shop! Pricey, but nice to know the part gets services with the right tools
@@Pawinning my u joints were already gone, and yes, even with the rubber housing the center bearing needs to be pressed. I highly advise getting a new bearing and u joints, especially since all the extra power from the turbo motor is all put on the u joints. they're welded in as well, so unless you wanna cut and press and weld new joints in it turned out easier to have it rebuilt.
Pawinning update: i was a wimp when i was in high school and after working at a shop this is all very easy. i do have a question though:
is the snap ring the difference between the m3 diff and a 3 series? i’ve got a 3.15 LSD from a 325 and i could take everything out without changing that snap ring. i’m confused as to why you took yours out?
Thanks bro did mine yesterday. This video helped alot!
+hollowshadow1544 happy to help
How much diff fluid did you lose? Or did you drain first?
I just drained it i believe 👍
@@Pawinning ua-cam.com/users/shortsp9snQzuz_L4?feature=share
Is that seal you replaced causing this same leak on my diff ??
What's up Pawinning, got a question for ya. I have a e46 and I know the e36 is similar, but is the driveshaft input seal the same as the axle input seal removal/replacing? I really can't find to much on the web for this and my car is leaking bad at this point of the differential.
+Julian McAlister it is similar. Just the hardest part is pulling the seal out then torquing the large nut at the front to 127ft-lbs if I remember it correctly. You can avoid that by marking the currently nut location, if there aren't any markings already
Why didn't you replace the large O ring?
Where did you order the seal and spring retainer from? I need the new retainer because my axle is slipping out, but might as well replace the seal too.
A bunch of places carry them online, from EBay to FCP Euro and Turner Motorsports!
Did you have to drain the fluid before doing this?
Mine was an e14 removed the whole hub/axle assembly without touching the sway bar
where is the part when you reinstall the clip after insert the new seal, or how to do it?
eduki yea im having a tough time putting it back in
@@orestesocks Trick was to put the snap ring into the differential first, NOT on the stub shaft.
(i also realize this thread is now 4 years old so HOPEULLY you figured it out by now. haha)
nice job bro
Gracias por subir este video!! Muy explicativo y muy ùtil!!!
¡gracias! Aprecio tu apoyo en mi contenido
can u do this whit a welded diff?
Good video, but that music spinning all the video is quite annoying!
"Custom" diy exhaust hehe
Mehn! This is kind of hard.