How do you prevent the residue at the bottom sticking to your prints when drying? That is my biggest issue. When that happens, I always think it's time to refresh my cleaning solution….
With this process the resin crap stays at the bottom. Nothing to mix it all in. I'm also dipping the items in and out of the IPA. This makes sure that it flows in and out of any hollowing. Without this... you're only cleaning the outside.
Can you do a video of the whole process?.. also it if you got any link for the stuff that you use... the bucket and the think that is inside. I need to buy through amazon because here in Panama I didn't see anything like those buckets.
Consider cone-shaped buckets with a spout on the bottom to drain out the gunk like what they do when brewing beer put a screen in there so the parts never sit in the cone shape and always in the clean IPA... a jug turned upside down and replace the lid with a spout can be an option
I did consider something like this but the funnels are all pretty tall not letting you get as deep into the IPA. For removing the dirty IPA I have a syphon hose. It does quick work of it
This is just another reason I use IPA and not water. ALso why I use a heat gun to dry and warm the prints before cure. I highly recomend this method for a clean and crisp end result.
How do you wash/rinse your models in those buckets, do you shake them? 1 by 1 ? How do you avoid to scratch models, which happens when they touch themselves together or touch walls while shaking.
@@henrykhenrykowski2736 I lift the metal basket in and out. 12 times per a wash. This will allow for I hollowed model to drain the IPA out and back in flushing out the inside. The action of pushing the metal bucket gently into the IPA also forces those little holes to act like Jets essentially power washing the outside. Because I have the plastic funnel at the bottom, the heavy IPA saturated with resin doesn't get mixed back into the washing IPA towards the top. Finally, the metal bucket is smooth on the bottom so it does not scratch or gouge into the plastic bucket. They still look brand new even after using them for over 6 months.
I don't and depending on the print I'll either shake them off to remove most of the IPA or I'll hit them with the heat gun on the cool setting to blow it off/out before the next.
I do the same.. just I like to use an alcohol destliller for recicle my dirty IPA.. Then I just clean the destiller, put the resin in an transparent bag and leave it to the sun to cure most of it and then throw it away... in to the forest!! no I am just kidding.
I tested the destliller, it does work but it's also a lot of work. Right now I put the IPA into 1Gal jugs and leave them in the sun for a few months, then filter them to get back back a sticy yellow IPA that I use in the first wash bucket. It's not perfect but it's very low effort.
@@J3DTech I don't know.. I did that for a while and filtering the IPA, takes time, depending on the amount.. 2 or 3 hours job just filtering. Meanwhile, when distilled IPA is very pure. NOT that pure because you still can smell the resin inside but is transparent. Only takes like 1 hour or one and a half hour. The only thing that I don't like is the remanent resin, is concentrated and is very pure so you need to use respirator with filter for organic compounds. But once you get use to it, is pretty easy job an 30min or cleaning the distiller. I preferred that way.
How do you prevent the residue at the bottom sticking to your prints when drying? That is my biggest issue. When that happens, I always think it's time to refresh my cleaning solution….
With this process the resin crap stays at the bottom. Nothing to mix it all in. I'm also dipping the items in and out of the IPA. This makes sure that it flows in and out of any hollowing. Without this... you're only cleaning the outside.
Where did you get the inner for those buckets?
Can you do a video of the whole process?.. also it if you got any link for the stuff that you use... the bucket and the think that is inside. I need to buy through amazon because here in Panama I didn't see anything like those buckets.
I do plan on it, but fist I need to finish my new room. Right now it's just too hard to film it in the tiny space I am in.
Subscribed - my set up needs an upgrade.
Consider cone-shaped buckets with a spout on the bottom to drain out the gunk like what they do when brewing beer put a screen in there so the parts never sit in the cone shape and always in the clean IPA... a jug turned upside down and replace the lid with a spout can be an option
I did consider something like this but the funnels are all pretty tall not letting you get as deep into the IPA.
For removing the dirty IPA I have a syphon hose. It does quick work of it
Hi J, any tips on how to dry prints? I sometimes get a "wet effect" after curing them. Thanks for the info
This is just another reason I use IPA and not water. ALso why I use a heat gun to dry and warm the prints before cure. I highly recomend this method for a clean and crisp end result.
How do you wash/rinse your models in those buckets, do you shake them? 1 by 1 ? How do you avoid to scratch models, which happens when they touch themselves together or touch walls while shaking.
@@henrykhenrykowski2736 I lift the metal basket in and out. 12 times per a wash.
This will allow for I hollowed model to drain the IPA out and back in flushing out the inside.
The action of pushing the metal bucket gently into the IPA also forces those little holes to act like Jets essentially power washing the outside.
Because I have the plastic funnel at the bottom, the heavy IPA saturated with resin doesn't get mixed back into the washing IPA towards the top.
Finally, the metal bucket is smooth on the bottom so it does not scratch or gouge into the plastic bucket. They still look brand new even after using them for over 6 months.
Do you let your prints completely dry between washes?
I don't and depending on the print I'll either shake them off to remove most of the IPA or I'll hit them with the heat gun on the cool setting to blow it off/out before the next.
Where did you get the inner for the buckets and are those 1 gal buckets or 2 gal
The shopping list can be found here:
docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#bookmark=id.mr3q6yydqhgq
I do the same.. just I like to use an alcohol destliller for recicle my dirty IPA.. Then I just clean the destiller, put the resin in an transparent bag and leave it to the sun to cure most of it and then throw it away... in to the forest!! no I am just kidding.
I tested the destliller, it does work but it's also a lot of work. Right now I put the IPA into 1Gal jugs and leave them in the sun for a few months, then filter them to get back back a sticy yellow IPA that I use in the first wash bucket. It's not perfect but it's very low effort.
@@J3DTech I don't know.. I did that for a while and filtering the IPA, takes time, depending on the amount.. 2 or 3 hours job just filtering. Meanwhile, when distilled IPA is very pure. NOT that pure because you still can smell the resin inside but is transparent. Only takes like 1 hour or one and a half hour. The only thing that I don't like is the remanent resin, is concentrated and is very pure so you need to use respirator with filter for organic compounds. But once you get use to it, is pretty easy job an 30min or cleaning the distiller. I preferred that way.