This channel is an honest gem. Im brand new to resin printing and ive found myself learning sooo much by just binge watching a lot of your videos. Really appreciate the work you put in 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplay second on popped right off lol, the only thing I did differently was use the corner of the scraper. Here's hoping the next ones go well too lol
Excellent point about the build plate being 90* to the table and adjustment point off of it. At a minimum, a re-level would be suggested if you do not. Great workflow video. Thanks
Glad to hear your found this video helpful! I'll never say that my way is the best way. However, the way I do things is the result of testing and refining the process to improve my results.... So I also don't think my way is the worst way. 😊
Great breakdown of everything and the workflow. I've watched a lot of these beginner videos, but your method is extremely logical, thorough and easy to follow. Makes me feel that I've got a pretty good grasp of everything and I'm well prepared to finally fire up my printer. Very helpful for building my own step-action workflow for the entire process! Great content!
I'd really appreciate an additional video for the final(?) stage. Removing supports, cleaning the model and curing the model. Assuming we don't use a store bought machine solution. Just an idea! Thanks for the vids!
I really appreciate the suggestion. It absolutely is my intention to create a detailed tutorial video for each additional set in the process. Unfortunately, a close family member has been fighting through some health issues. So, I just haven't had time for long-form video creation while I've been helping them work through that.... But things are getting better so hopefully I can get back to it soon!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I can totally relate to how that situation dominates all other aspects of life and wouldn't expect you to prioritise videos at that time! Glad things are getting better for you and your family.
You explain everything in a way that's easy to understand for a beginner like myself. I'm about to start printing and i wanna make sure i have all the steps down and have all the tools i need before i start. Any update on part 3?
Still coming, but slowly. I plan on explaining the 3 main options you have for cleaning your models. Each has pros and cons so hopefully it will be useful for everyone.
I do have a question if you are still monitoring this by chance. How effective is the ipa wet paper towel at cleaning up resin? For example let’s say some resin is on the handle of a tool. Would wiping that handle down get enough of it to be considered safe to touch or would you recommend a more thorough cleaning?
@@minmaxwell6583 I'm so glad to hear that this video helped you! So I should state by saying I'm not a doctor or a chemist so any input I give is purely from my own experience. I try my absolute best to avoid contaminating surfaces I might touch with my bare hands. So handles of tools, work surfaces, etc... However, when resin has ended up on my tools I've been able to clean (seemly) all traces of it away with IPA on a paper towel. So far I've not had any issues with irritation on my skin... I hope that answers your question.
I just got my first ever resin printer yesterday and watched both of your videos at the end of work today. I am so heartbroken there’s no part 3 yet 😭 If you’re open to suggestions, please cover water washable resin, I can’t find nearly as much good content on it compared to traditional resin that’s rinsed with IPA.
I really appreciate the encouragement and I promise part 3 and 4 are coming. Oddly enough I've been really thinking about doing a deep dive (not literally) into water washable resin. Hopefully that's not too far off either.
Holy shit! Thank you so much because every time I do it oftentimes models will go flying across the room because I was just putting so much pressure into it to get it off or I have to literally wiggle the models off of the supports and leave the supports on there until I can take them off later but it just took so long to get everything off the build plate. That and then I heard that hot water helps. But then I run the risk of getting the models wet and if it's not the water washable resin then it's sometimes might mess with it
The single sided 45° tipped tools work best compared to the flat/90, I rotate the tool once underneath to peel the part equally around. it's more rare than the dual angle ones, but worth the extra cost
You can also heat up your plate and then models will come out easier and not damaged at all. For example pour hot water on top side of the plate. You have make sure it's back to normal temperature before you start new print.
I got a tool that is a very smoothly ground thinner, narrower version of a scraper that I got off of amazon that does and excellent job of popping things off of the build plate with as much control as possible. It is much better than your generic paint scraper. Edit: If i'm making another print right away I also wipe the rubber spatula off on the top of the build plate as it's going straight back into the stirred resin, any that drips off get right back into the vat that way as well.
Oh that sounds like an awesome tool for this job! I'll definitely keep an eye out for something similar. That's a great point about scraping it against the build plate! Thanks for that!
Hi, I use pliars. They actually do the same the corner of the scraper does but you can control the force you apply and losen the model rather than poping it of the build plate. The model does not take flight that easy when I do it and I can losen even aggressive cases of adhesion.
Interesting. I'll be honest that sounds like it would definitely damage your models... But I'll gladly admit that I could very well be wrong... I'd love to see a video of your process if you're willing to post one in the Slice Print Roleplay Facebook group.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay It works best with pliars for electronics that form a plane on one side when closed. Open the pliars and put them with the flat side on to the build plate with both tips touching the raft or platform of the print. Now gently close the pliars until you feel that the tips are between raft/platform and built plate. You can press further to gain more area or start to tilt the pliars gently. It takes a bit of practice but I have a lot of control over the model when I remove it from the built plate. Sorry I have no facebook, I can't post a video into the group.
Soak the prints in warm water on the plate for like 5 minutes. Just hot water from the sink, and the prints will fall off the plate and be super easy to remove supports.
That's definitely not a bad option. For me though that requires a little too much prep and cleanup. However, for models with really thin parts or small supports then that would definitely make it worth it! Just be sure to dispose of the water properly.
Awesome video, thank you. What's your process for cleaning the vat? I just did my very first test print, emptied resin back into its container, and I wiped my pfa with 99% alcohol. It's now hazy... not sure if that was the wrong move
Hey there. I actually have a video that covers my process for cleaning the vat. I'll post it below. Your FEP is probably fine. I'm betting you just need to give it another wip or two maybe one with IPA and one without. ua-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/v-deo.html
Hey! im using an elegoo saturn 2 8k with 8k waterwashable resin and no matter what i do my prints require so much force to get off they end up snapping into brittle little bits- im printing in a warm room and my bottom exporsure time is the factory recommended 35- my first few prints popped off the build plate just like yours with minimal pressure- not sure what happened if you have any tips or advice id really appreciate it!
@@rodneyvonC so my first tip is an easy one. Try dropping your bottom exposure time to 25s. In my experience, 35s is a bit long for most resins. My second tip is less easy. Try a different resin. I've found water washable resins to be a bit finicky. I'd recommend trying Sunlu ABS Like Resin.
If there's a big scratch* on the build plate but its flat will it still work fine? You said that you should feel it to be smooth and it feels smooth is that okay?
If you have a failed print then yes definitely filter the resin from your vat back into the bottle. If your print looks good with no failures then you're fine to leave the resin in the vat. I've left resin in the vat for weeks without issue. Just stir it well before use. If you need it, here's a video going over how to drain your vat after a failed print. ua-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/v-deo.html
I use a plastic scraper or an old plastic card sanded down on one edge, i would never use a metal scraper on my bed, it scratches up the surface (which is usually sanded/textured to maximuse adhesion with your print) and if you did put a gouge or miss a metal flake you can cut your FEP film with will ruin your entire printer (resin leak)
That's totally common. Can you feel any raised or sharp bits around where you dug into it? If not then don't worry. If so then take some 220 grit sandpaper to just that sharp area and knock it down.
Yep that comments been made a few times. I do absolutely recommend flex plates. However, no printer (that I know of) comes with one installed. So I figured this info might help people just starting out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I didn't mean to offend I did heavy research before buying my printer and ordered a flex plate with it. I've never actually scraped a part off but I've seen lots of videos and it just doesn't look like a good time lol.
@@Josh-bc7gi no offense taken. But you should know that you are in a very small group that bought a flex plate with their printer. It was definitely a good call. 👍
The bases always break. No matter how gently I try to get them loose. What can I do? There are already some scratches on the surface. Is that a Problem?
@@miwi7315 that's a common issue. The first thing I suggest is reducing your bottom exposure time by 10s. Typically, most printers using most resins will do fine with 25s - 35s bottom exposure time. Scratches in the bill plate are not a concern unless there are raised/sharp bits you can feel with your finger.
That's a great question. Here's a video showing my process for removing prints from the FEP. Let me know if you have any questions. ua-cam.com/users/shorts5p9kvN96HYs?feature=share
@@nathanrivas5723 clean the whole build plate and all the parts, put it into a large zip lock bag, then put it in the freezer. The parts should either pop off on their own or, at the very least, easier to remove. Just be extra careful not to get any resin inside your freezer.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I just used hot water and a knife and it went off smoothly know I know what to do if I lose my scrapper. (I have to keep the knife only for resin now)
This channel is an honest gem. Im brand new to resin printing and ive found myself learning sooo much by just binge watching a lot of your videos. Really appreciate the work you put in 😊
@@samanthavanderblonk2346 thanks so much for the feedback. I'm always glad to hear that my videos are helping people get into 3D printing. 😊
This was great, I just bought my first Resin printer and i been watching people video to make sure i do everything right the first time!
So glad to hear that this video helped you!
I like this so much , specially how you laid out everything you need to have ready
Thanks, I'm so glad to hear that you enjoyed it!
I wish there was a part 3, those two first videos were top notch! 👌
I really appreciate the feedback! I am absolutely working on the next step (part 3). It's unfortunately just going a bit slow.
Yes looking forward to part 3. These videos very detailed and helpful.
@@BoredT-Rex so glad you've found them helpful!.. I have part 3 planned out and I'll try to get working on it soon!
It took me 3 hours to get my first print off lol. Helpfully using these tips will help me on my second one
@@amyers442 oh yeah I should hope these tips cut that time down considerably. But if not let me know and I'll see if I can give you some ideas.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay second on popped right off lol, the only thing I did differently was use the corner of the scraper. Here's hoping the next ones go well too lol
Excellent point about the build plate being 90* to the table and adjustment point off of it. At a minimum, a re-level would be suggested if you do not. Great workflow video. Thanks
Glad to hear your found this video helpful! I'll never say that my way is the best way. However, the way I do things is the result of testing and refining the process to improve my results.... So I also don't think my way is the worst way. 😊
PLEASE make a video on Washing and Curing. You do a great job!
Thank you for explaining to a total newbie
You are very welcome. I always try to make my videos accessible to everyone. 😊
Great breakdown of everything and the workflow. I've watched a lot of these beginner videos, but your method is extremely logical, thorough and easy to follow. Makes me feel that I've got a pretty good grasp of everything and I'm well prepared to finally fire up my printer. Very helpful for building my own step-action workflow for the entire process! Great content!
That is exactly what I hoped people would gain from this video so I'm extremely happy to hear that! Thanks for your feedback!
Dude can’t thank you enough for these. Super helpful.
So glad to hear it was helpful! You are very welcome.
This is very helpful. I particularly noticed your comment on making sure not to bend or break the build plate when removing prints!
So glad you found it helpful.
Yeah it's definitely not something a lot of people realize, but it's important.
Another great guide! Very professionally done, to the point yet accessible to absolute beginners. Impressive! Thanks for making these videos!
I really appreciate that feedback and encouragement, thank you!
I'd really appreciate an additional video for the final(?) stage. Removing supports, cleaning the model and curing the model. Assuming we don't use a store bought machine solution. Just an idea! Thanks for the vids!
I really appreciate the suggestion. It absolutely is my intention to create a detailed tutorial video for each additional set in the process. Unfortunately, a close family member has been fighting through some health issues. So, I just haven't had time for long-form video creation while I've been helping them work through that.... But things are getting better so hopefully I can get back to it soon!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I can totally relate to how that situation dominates all other aspects of life and wouldn't expect you to prioritise videos at that time! Glad things are getting better for you and your family.
You explain everything in a way that's easy to understand for a beginner like myself. I'm about to start printing and i wanna make sure i have all the steps down and have all the tools i need before i start. Any update on part 3?
Still coming, but slowly. I plan on explaining the 3 main options you have for cleaning your models. Each has pros and cons so hopefully it will be useful for everyone.
Good tips! I thought this AFTER i just found out my print ended 30 min after i got to work. I can't get it off the build plate for another 12 hrs.
Aww that's such a pain. Waiting to remove it is so hard!
I love using the blue towels for everything that i need to last more than 1 wipe (not the bathroom lol).
Haha!
This really helped refine my workflow for printing. Thanks for making this! It was crazy helpful.
I do have a question if you are still monitoring this by chance. How effective is the ipa wet paper towel at cleaning up resin? For example let’s say some resin is on the handle of a tool. Would wiping that handle down get enough of it to be considered safe to touch or would you recommend a more thorough cleaning?
@@minmaxwell6583 I'm so glad to hear that this video helped you!
So I should state by saying I'm not a doctor or a chemist so any input I give is purely from my own experience.
I try my absolute best to avoid contaminating surfaces I might touch with my bare hands. So handles of tools, work surfaces, etc... However, when resin has ended up on my tools I've been able to clean (seemly) all traces of it away with IPA on a paper towel. So far I've not had any issues with irritation on my skin... I hope that answers your question.
As part 01, this one is very useful! Thanks A LOT!
Glad to hear it!
I just got my first ever resin printer yesterday and watched both of your videos at the end of work today. I am so heartbroken there’s no part 3 yet 😭 If you’re open to suggestions, please cover water washable resin, I can’t find nearly as much good content on it compared to traditional resin that’s rinsed with IPA.
I really appreciate the encouragement and I promise part 3 and 4 are coming.
Oddly enough I've been really thinking about doing a deep dive (not literally) into water washable resin. Hopefully that's not too far off either.
Holy shit! Thank you so much because every time I do it oftentimes models will go flying across the room because I was just putting so much pressure into it to get it off or I have to literally wiggle the models off of the supports and leave the supports on there until I can take them off later but it just took so long to get everything off the build plate.
That and then I heard that hot water helps. But then I run the risk of getting the models wet and if it's not the water washable resin then it's sometimes might mess with it
The single sided 45° tipped tools work best compared to the flat/90, I rotate the tool once underneath to peel the part equally around. it's more rare than the dual angle ones, but worth the extra cost
Great video. Reassuring to my current process. Thank you very much for more useful content!
I'm so glad to hear that you found it helpful! 😊
You can also heat up your plate and then models will come out easier and not damaged at all. For example pour hot water on top side of the plate. You have make sure it's back to normal temperature before you start new print.
Great tutorial and overview of the whole process!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got a tool that is a very smoothly ground thinner, narrower version of a scraper that I got off of amazon that does and excellent job of popping things off of the build plate with as much control as possible. It is much better than your generic paint scraper.
Edit: If i'm making another print right away I also wipe the rubber spatula off on the top of the build plate as it's going straight back into the stirred resin, any that drips off get right back into the vat that way as well.
Oh that sounds like an awesome tool for this job! I'll definitely keep an eye out for something similar.
That's a great point about scraping it against the build plate! Thanks for that!
Thank you very much- really great information.
So glad you found it helpful!
Hi, I use pliars. They actually do the same the corner of the scraper does but you can control the force you apply and losen the model rather than poping it of the build plate.
The model does not take flight that easy when I do it and I can losen even aggressive cases of adhesion.
Interesting. I'll be honest that sounds like it would definitely damage your models... But I'll gladly admit that I could very well be wrong... I'd love to see a video of your process if you're willing to post one in the Slice Print Roleplay Facebook group.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay It works best with pliars for electronics that form a plane on one side when closed.
Open the pliars and put them with the flat side on to the build plate with both tips touching the raft or platform of the print.
Now gently close the pliars until you feel that the tips are between raft/platform and built plate.
You can press further to gain more area or start to tilt the pliars gently.
It takes a bit of practice but I have a lot of control over the model when I remove it from the built plate.
Sorry I have no facebook, I can't post a video into the group.
Great video, thanks!
@@stephsnerdystuff1656 glad you found it helpful!
wait where is the blue handled spatula that came with the EPAX? That is by far my go to scraper!
Haha that's definitely not a bad choice and it's one of my favorites as well! 😊
Soak the prints in warm water on the plate for like 5 minutes. Just hot water from the sink, and the prints will fall off the plate and be super easy to remove supports.
That's definitely not a bad option. For me though that requires a little too much prep and cleanup. However, for models with really thin parts or small supports then that would definitely make it worth it!
Just be sure to dispose of the water properly.
Awesome video, thank you. What's your process for cleaning the vat? I just did my very first test print, emptied resin back into its container, and I wiped my pfa with 99% alcohol. It's now hazy... not sure if that was the wrong move
Hey there. I actually have a video that covers my process for cleaning the vat. I'll post it below.
Your FEP is probably fine. I'm betting you just need to give it another wip or two maybe one with IPA and one without.
ua-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/v-deo.html
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thank you!!
@@austins.4459 You are very welcome. 😊
TNX, it is a small model, big problem is on large models! do you have a video about that?
Can you explain the problem you're running into with large models?
Hello! How are you dealing with removing the islands?
I actually have a video that covers my process of checking for and removing islands.
ua-cam.com/video/XRZIzwlvVks/v-deo.html
Hey! im using an elegoo saturn 2 8k with 8k waterwashable resin and no matter what i do my prints require so much force to get off they end up snapping into brittle little bits- im printing in a warm room and my bottom exporsure time is the factory recommended 35- my first few prints popped off the build plate just like yours with minimal pressure- not sure what happened if you have any tips or advice id really appreciate it!
@@rodneyvonC so my first tip is an easy one. Try dropping your bottom exposure time to 25s. In my experience, 35s is a bit long for most resins.
My second tip is less easy. Try a different resin. I've found water washable resins to be a bit finicky. I'd recommend trying Sunlu ABS Like Resin.
Great video bro super helpful
If there's a big scratch* on the build plate but its flat will it still work fine? You said that you should feel it to be smooth and it feels smooth is that okay?
Yep that should be fine. If you can run your finger across the scratch and you don't feel any sharp points then it's fine.
Do you leave resin in printer or do you put it in bottle after every print?
If you have a failed print then yes definitely filter the resin from your vat back into the bottle.
If your print looks good with no failures then you're fine to leave the resin in the vat. I've left resin in the vat for weeks without issue. Just stir it well before use.
If you need it, here's a video going over how to drain your vat after a failed print.
ua-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/v-deo.html
I use a plastic scraper or an old plastic card sanded down on one edge, i would never use a metal scraper on my bed, it scratches up the surface (which is usually sanded/textured to maximuse adhesion with your print) and if you did put a gouge or miss a metal flake you can cut your FEP film with will ruin your entire printer (resin leak)
Glad you found something that works for you.
what do we do if we gouge the build plate? I accidently left a nice gouge in mine.
That's totally common. Can you feel any raised or sharp bits around where you dug into it? If not then don't worry. If so then take some 220 grit sandpaper to just that sharp area and knock it down.
What do you do with the printed models once they are removed from the build plate?
Tldr get a flexible build plate. Pull it off bend it done. No damaged parts no struggle
Yep that comments been made a few times. I do absolutely recommend flex plates. However, no printer (that I know of) comes with one installed. So I figured this info might help people just starting out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I didn't mean to offend I did heavy research before buying my printer and ordered a flex plate with it. I've never actually scraped a part off but I've seen lots of videos and it just doesn't look like a good time lol.
@@Josh-bc7gi no offense taken. But you should know that you are in a very small group that bought a flex plate with their printer. It was definitely a good call. 👍
Nice thank you
You are very welcome!
The bases always break. No matter how gently I try to get them loose. What can I do? There are already some scratches on the surface. Is that a Problem?
@@miwi7315 that's a common issue. The first thing I suggest is reducing your bottom exposure time by 10s. Typically, most printers using most resins will do fine with 25s - 35s bottom exposure time.
Scratches in the bill plate are not a concern unless there are raised/sharp bits you can feel with your finger.
@SlicePrintRoleplay Thank you for your answer. I have it at 30s at the moment.
@@miwi7315 you are very welcome. I'd try dropping it to 20s and see if that resolves the issue.
But what do we do when something is stuck to the feb?
That's a great question. Here's a video showing my process for removing prints from the FEP. Let me know if you have any questions.
ua-cam.com/users/shorts5p9kvN96HYs?feature=share
What if I accidentally cure my prints on the build plate?
@@nathanrivas5723 clean the whole build plate and all the parts, put it into a large zip lock bag, then put it in the freezer. The parts should either pop off on their own or, at the very least, easier to remove. Just be extra careful not to get any resin inside your freezer.
Never latex gloves for anything. You can become allergic to it as you get more exposure. 😊
I lost my scraper now the print is stuck 💀
Wait until the sun goes down and it's cold outside. Take your build plate outside and let it get cold. The part should pop off after that. 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I just used hot water and a knife and it went off smoothly know I know what to do if I lose my scrapper. (I have to keep the knife only for resin now)