Відео

@@teabagNBG If you paint thicker, don't care about details. Then you can lift on the first stage of TSMC a bit faster but no other settings change.

Speed = the resin and the quality you want. Not much the printer at all. But overall you don't need to lift as high on a smaller printer so they can be a bit faster.

@@coleschaben It's all ready there. Just make sure you DL the newest version from the Lychee slicer website.

@ thank you!

The files are free on cults, and I'm sure ther are many local places to you that would print it very cheap.

No, I ran in to MAJOR issues with the S4U, issues that took me months and months ordering parts to get it all figured out. This review is planned to be a VS video of the M7Pro VS Revo VS S4U. But from here I would by the M7 Max or the M7 over the others.

@@jameskelleher467 First look at the cost of these printers and see what's within the budget. Then from there think why do you want a big printer and then find out which one fits you? And that should answer your question in the end. They're all great printers.

@J3DTech thank you getting back to me so quickly. All costs aside. Which one would you prefer? On paper there is a large gap between the m7 and the max but in reality is there a big difference?

@jameskelleher467 I would say it really depends on what you're going to print. Are you trying to make toys or do you want to make art? If you're making toys, the M7 Max is the perfect printer. If you're trying to make art, you might want to wait for something like the GK3 Pro.

@J3DTech I plan to make superhero/marvel figures etc as well as scanning people and printing busts from waist upwards.

@@jameskelleher467 The M7 Max will let you print bigger and with AA voles will be bailey noticable on something like a nose or the top of the head. GK3 Ultra is 2x the cost and you will have a smaller volex in the same places. Harder to see but still there. G3Pro or M7 will be very similar but smaller and cheaper. All great options

@@Peppercat1824 Lychee Slicer and right now it's 25% off the Plus version

Two Stage Motion Control Read about it here docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit?tab=t.0#bookmark=kix.lwi0v9cdziw9

I have not seen that, what printer and what are your setting?

Thank you!

@@exjumper999 My process is very very different. What makes it soo different is that I have a method that makes it so that I don't need to worry about having super clean or clear IPA. I could make a video on this but I think many will find it won't fit their work area.

@@J3DTech That's alright if your method doesn't leave it clear, I should've stated my IPA is still a little cloudy (you can never get rid of all the particles). If you can I think the community would still love to hear any way that you clean your IPA as it's good to have more than 1 method of doing something and it may help find a better way using a little of multiple different ways.

@exjumper999 Yeah I'll see what I can do.

@@leonandrews2668 I'll need to tell him thank you!

@@mysteriousfox88 There are quite a few upgrades in the lighting engine and firmware. I wanted to go deeper into the type of railway used but I'm finding it hard to gets details so I could give a more objective validation. So I ended up cutting that part. I'm working on gathering more information and educating myself in these topics so I can inform the buyer in the quality of the z-screw as being a ball screw isn't always better if it's a lower quality. As far as the LCD I agree as 12k or 14k would have been better at this size and I think the only thing holding this printer back from being absolutely amazing. But they are looking into it.

@@88RunnerBlade I do agree, but they really wanted to keep the price lower. A 14K LCD adds a very high cost. That said I've asked them many times to offer an upgraded version.

@@reviewchan9806 Yes it can but on a 14k or 16k LCD it's not as impressive

@@ThYr0N Yes I've quit using the left over supports after this. As it just doesn't work as well

@@reviewchan9806 Waiting on a new motherboard for the heater to see if this fixes it. If not it's simple use a different heater.

​@@J3DTech I tried the anycubic heater and filter which blows hot air downwards. It does have full PID control so it doens't pulse the heater. Tried on a Saturn 4U. Seems to work fantastic. Granted, that machine doesn't even lift the build plate so YMMV

@reviewchan9806 I've not tested theirs but I've done most all others at this point. And yeah this is the only one that has this issue. Since making this vid I've done a LOT more testing and discovered the why and how. 100% it's heating/cooling the print on the build plate causing it to warp.

@@n0f8r Both are true. 1. I did not have this data at the time and I still think that the S3U is the best Saturn on the market and a good step in the correct direction. Sadly the S4 went Auto leveling. 2. It depends on what you're printing and your resin. If you don't care about really high accurate parts and you're not using really highly accurate resin, you might not be able to tell the difference. Or if you're doing engineering parts or high accuracy? Resins, those differences in the LCD can be the difference between successive and failure or out of spec and inspect.

@@J3DTech thanks! my Saturn 2 stepper failed, and wondering if it's worth repairing or should just upgrade to S3U - I also don't like the auto-leveling build plate of the S4U. S3U Ball screw instead of lead screw, and 4-point level platform seemed nice - but that light uniformity really concerns me. I'd love to see a video specifically on Light Uniformity comparing more printers and going into a bit more detail on how bad the problems with poor uniformity can get!

@@n0f8r That's my plan in the future but it's a very hard thing to get objective data on. I'll need to develop a methodology and then apply it to all the printers in a way that's visual yet easy and quick to understand. If your ok with a smaller printer look at the new Anycubic M4 Ultra

@@J3DTech actually Jan Mrázek did a fantastic blog post (Dec '22) on the topic, and built an impressive open source custom machine with software that plots a heat map of the whole print surface, but he's only got 2 resin printers I think. It would be amazing if someone built his machine and applied it to a whole bunch of printers.

@n0f8r I'll check it out. I'm really looking for some cool stuff like this to add to my reviews.

@@errolfrancis4708 Thank you!

@@fs360llc9 If your looking for another in the 10" size I would recommend the Phrozen Mega 8k or wait a bit longer for the the next generation of Uniformation

@@ItsBrody Haha probably is

@@ViewerV-bb5df I've seen this type of behavior from all three, but I will say that Anycubic in the past has been quite bad with their support. I worked quite a bit with them on improving this Over the last 2 years and I think they have made really massive improvements on this topic. My hope is that they can continue to provide good support and support their printers for a long time. But I do think they learned their lesson on the M3 Premium with how badly that hurt their image.

I'll be there with you in a few weeks

Thank you! I plan to do even more in the future!

@@ArkatzStore It's a bit complex but the resin will cure in a little ball in the center of the pixel. The size of the ball is controlled by how much UV light passes through the filter. (Gray values on the LVD) But the resin is attracted to itself and the little ball of softly cured resin will be pulled into the main object. Making a half or quarter pixel. This is how AA works in resin printing.

@J3DTech ok I see, I think

@@ArkatzStore The are some great microscopic images online of this working.

Very true, I'm used to saying MM all day my brain played a trick on me. Maybe I should have used freedom units 📏😁

That would be GREAT for the LCD. Right now I cut a square out of the larger roll to clean off the LCD before I put the VAT back on. This smaller roll would make this SUPER easy!

@@J3DTech Use lots of soapy water. Google how to apply window tint.

@@celestinemachuca2339 It is very strange isn't it

@@bubaart I don't recommend the belt. They are hard to deal with. The A thermal vat band is better. The Chitubox box one works well but it's also a bit clunky.

@ okay thanks for the advice. Elegoo emailed saying “As for the old version of the heating module, it indeed caused layer lines, but please rest assured that we have resolved this issue. If the heater you're encountering still causes layer lines, we will help resolve it for you.”

@@ArkatzStore Right others will crash... Even ones that just came out.

@J3DTech That's really a shame. Look like Creality damned Ender 3 before Bambu came and Smash their faces. Now they all are "oh yeah we actually can do better than Ender 3s, we were just a bit lazy lol". Maybe Bambu will do the same to Anycubic? 😄

Somebody got the printer therapy, kept it from k*lling itself.

@@SpringfieldFatts Love your printer, respect your printer

If you look at the description I have a link to my guide, in that you will find how I 3D print, calibrate, level, EVERYTHING you will ever need.

I do, there is a video there a story there I have been trying to find out how to tell for 3 months. It's why my Revo Part 2 review is taking soooo long.

@@J3DTech Do you recommend replacing the ACF to nFEP?

@brucebarton2888 I do. I'm not a fan of ACF.

@@bubaart Correct you can't level that printer.

@@tristanc2271 There is a non zero chance this printer is a result of when I was at Anycubic HQ with Titanforge last year 🤔😉

@@Auchaser643 It's a very good call, I have 15 different resin printers now and this is in my top.

Thank you!

@@bubaart Happy you found it and I really hope it helps you out. And yeah... That visual aspect of lychee is always a bit confusing. I need to redo the shorts on this topic and publish them again. I'm not 100% happy with how they came out.

@ you are a legend !

@@bubaart haha I don't know about that but thank you 😊

@@LuisG-SC Thank you!

@@packe93 I have this information in my guide under the AA Section. You will find my guide in the description. It has everything about resin 3d printing.

@@GrayGryphon I have an Epax10 8k this printer is much better. I've been trying to convince Anycubic to release an upgraded LCD. We will see. But with AA you can get it to do better then it data suggests.

@@TKs3DPrints Ah yeah the OG, it was a little different but yep did lift up.

@@tonithaye251 Thank you!