Fascinating. I was born in the late 60s so i learned and fiddled with and got really good working on and with the early generation GM and Mopar alternators, and heavy duty agricultural and military alternators like the "real" Leece-Neville large and heavy stuff. I never had much liking for any of the alternators that FoMoCo made or used. Never seen a "CS" alternator before but now thar I'm getting back into automotive and mechanical projects I'm glad to know of the CS, looks like it could be handy to use on some future retrofits, where something more compact might be handy.
I'm still having a bit of a mind-bend believing that something that compact can output 130 amps or more and not melt, but I guess that's progress. But I kind of like the old big bombproof stuff in its own right. Again, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
That last wire you said was pulse and was used for diagnostics sometimes but you had never seen hooked up-isn’t that also used in some situations to give rpm signal like maybe in diesels? Not an exact rpm (or maybe, idk) but just basically a confirmation the engine is running. Seems I recall seeing that remote car starter or alarms are sometimes hooked to that to confirm the engine has started (as an input back into the remote starters control module). You must be like me, I figure out how things actually work, so I can adapt anything from a totally different vehicle/engine to whatever project I’m working on. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@84SS931 depends... if your black wire goes to the same circuit that goes to your ignition, then you will need a diode. But if the black wire is isolated from the ignition when you turn off the key, then no diode is needed. Alot depends on the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is very simple and everything is connected to the same wire that comes out of the ignition switch... then you will need that diode. If you have one of the ignition switches that have a bunch of wires coming from it, then all those wires will be isolated when you turn off the switch, and then a diode will not be needed
I don’t suppose you can change something on your camera to get rid of the shakes? I’m afraid I will have a stroke before the end Thanks for all your content!
@jeroendegroot8326 If you don't connect a light to the L wire and you just have it connected to 12 volts directly, it will burn out. Also, some other style alternators must be used with a light bulb as they don't have multiple choices like the CS alternator.
Fascinating. I was born in the late 60s so i learned and fiddled with and got really good working on and with the early generation GM and Mopar alternators, and heavy duty agricultural and military alternators like the "real" Leece-Neville large and heavy stuff. I never had much liking for any of the alternators that FoMoCo made or used. Never seen a "CS" alternator before but now thar I'm getting back into automotive and mechanical projects I'm glad to know of the CS, looks like it could be handy to use on some future retrofits, where something more compact might be handy.
I'm still having a bit of a mind-bend believing that something that compact can output 130 amps or more and not melt, but I guess that's progress. But I kind of like the old big bombproof stuff in its own right. Again, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
Perfect video i meam the best video so clear so informative and simple👍🏻🫡💯% tanks buddy
That last wire you said was pulse and was used for diagnostics sometimes but you had never seen hooked up-isn’t that also used in some situations to give rpm signal like maybe in diesels? Not an exact rpm (or maybe, idk) but just basically a confirmation the engine is running. Seems I recall seeing that remote car starter or alarms are sometimes hooked to that to confirm the engine has started (as an input back into the remote starters control module).
You must be like me, I figure out how things actually work, so I can adapt anything from a totally different vehicle/engine to whatever project I’m working on.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good video. Exactly what I was looking for.
Asking about the Black wire goes direct to battery Negative or Positive sir ??
@@abdulla3785 It goes to positive only when ignition switch is on
Hey appreciate your video it was a big help thks.
If I wire the black wire to an accessory spot on my fuse box for 12v ignition Do I need to put an inline fuse on that wire also?
@@84SS931 Not really... very little current goes through that wire
@@raysoto1969 ok thank you. Also will I need to put a diode on that wire?
@84SS931 depends... if your black wire goes to the same circuit that goes to your ignition, then you will need a diode. But if the black wire is isolated from the ignition when you turn off the key, then no diode is needed. Alot depends on the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is very simple and everything is connected to the same wire that comes out of the ignition switch... then you will need that diode. If you have one of the ignition switches that have a bunch of wires coming from it, then all those wires will be isolated when you turn off the switch, and then a diode will not be needed
I don’t suppose you can change something on your camera to get rid of the shakes?
I’m afraid I will have a stroke before the end
Thanks for all your content!
Hahaha... I do have my cheap camera set on anti shake mode. But I guess my hand shakes so much that you still see it. I'll invest in a tripod someday
Q: where can I get the plug that connects to it ? Mines didn’t come with it!
Go to the autoparts store and ask for an alternator connector for a 1990 Chevy pickup.
Hi sir@@raysoto1969
Thanks. What is the thing that people say that the alternator will mailfunction after a while if you dont hook up the idiot Light 🙈??
@jeroendegroot8326 If you don't connect a light to the L wire and you just have it connected to 12 volts directly, it will burn out. Also, some other style alternators must be used with a light bulb as they don't have multiple choices like the CS alternator.
@@raysoto1969 cool thx man. I just connecties the FI and for the rest nothing. Works like a charm thanks
😮👍👍
forgot to mention TACK
Ah yes, I just recently learned the green wire is for GM diesel trucks for the tachometer
vary cool