I run an '86 300 in my '65 F100. Used 240's for 40 yrs. Last one went 169,000 mi...30 yrs of trouble free motoring. Now with the 300...What a difference in power! Still using the oil bath airfilter. One up grade for performance I've done...took off the one port restricting original exh.mnfld and put the efi "headers" on. Did that on the last 240 actually. What a diff that made! Now with two short pipes and mufflers. Using the new type dist too....Very happy with the 300.
Years ago i had a 1984 F150 300 6 cylinder. At about 150 thousand miles i was having timing advane issues. I installed an old school point distributor system from a 1971 truck. It ran great.
I have same truck but min won't start after it been driven after it get up to temp it won't start to it cool off did yours do this just asking be for I tray this on my truck thank u
Thank you so much for the video- about to do this on my truck, only question I have is the location of the vacuum line from distributor to carb, can you tell me which port it goes into at the carb? New to all this but learning!
You probably want it connected to the manifold vacuum, so any vacuum port underneath the throttle blade. This will help for a better idle, then the mechanical advance will take over as the engine revs up.
I had read that the blue and white wire that goes to the old ignition control module, was actually +12 when starting and ignition on and running. Did you find that to be accurate? How did you tie in the vacuum spark advance on the distributor?
That sounds plausible but I did not check that wiring myself. And for the vacuum line I just ran it off the carb and to the distributor. Then used a zip tie to keep it secured to the distributor.
I’ve got a 15600 that goes around power steering, alternator, crank pulley and water pump. Then I also have a 15410 that goes around the alternator, water pump and crank.
The temp sensor and oil pressure sensor both need to stay in place and the wires should not be cut or disconnected. They go to the dash, not the computer, so the dash should still work. Did on mine.
2 things. one i wish u could post pic of the 3 roundish connectors on fenderwell of what u have to keep plugged in. best i can tell it all went to the computer mess. i know 1 is for the tach. greenish wire. but also what did u use to power the HEI from key switch?
My tachometer doesn’t work so I only kept on connector plugged in. It’s a four wire connector I believe. There should be a three (maybe two) wire connector next to it that I tested and found one of those wires gets 12v when the ignition is on and when the key is in the start position. Your best bet is to use a multimeter and find a wire with 12v in the “start” and “run” positions and use that.
Did almost the same thing on my old 86 after the wiring harness had a thermal event...... I just used mid 70s Ford distributor and module instead of a HEI
@@ericb9914 I bought matching parts for a 75 f100 and wired it to match a 75 wiring diagram. There was a little more to it but I can't remember off the top of my head. I might be doing another similar project if I do I'll try and make a video.
I left the alternator wiring untouched and it never gave me any problems. So if it does need an exciter, I must not have change anything enough to cause it to not work.
@@cronedentside74 so my deal is that I ripped out all of my original wiring and am rewiring my whole truck. Got rid of the computer unit because I don’t want to deal with it (85 f150). I have a wire from the fuse box as an exciter wire, but am not sure if I need it for this alternator since it’s a one wire to the starter solenoid. I didn’t even know if there was a place to hook on an exciter wire for this alternator
I did not. Sometimes when doing a distributor I’ll run into that issue but usually turning the engine with a wrench just slightly helps the distributor go all the way in.
@@cronedentside74 was hoping for little better gas mileage. Mine was flooding. Those feedbacks are junk. Uncle bought the truck brand new off the lot and he said it never did run exactly right. Had to replace the feed back carb within 6 years of it being new😂
Sorry to bother again but, did you have to make any adjustments on your carb? Mine idled when I first installed it and very strange but can’t get it to idle again. Not sure if I still have a vacuum leak or something else. Runs perfectly Down the road tho
Always thankful for you help! My 79 ford f100 4.9 liter. has a no spark but does turn over condition. I replaced : new coil and connector. Ignition module. New fuel pump. I believe I put the distributor in close as I should(at 0’ degrees). Also how would I know if I have it in wrong? Where do I start😊🤝?
Because the computer is linked to the carburetor and distributor, it is recommended to change both. The computer won’t know what’s going on if all the sensors/solenoids on the carb are unplugged. It won’t advance the timing much at all and you can get low power at higher RPM. I had that problem.
I need to teach my mechanic this! He is trained highly, on EFI,but is ignorant to a degree, on this old dinasore tech,so to speak! Thanks for the best video on the internet explaing this operation.I can now assist with the procedure to my truck, by education to him and his crew! I would have had a really low performing ride without you sir! Again, thanks!
Advance would be non existent with computer controls removed and no vacuum advance canister on the old distributor that got advance thru electronic signals! That is the part we need to hammer into our heads,and those that would steer us wrong! You have helped us all to see the theory behind the swap!
![Ford 300 Inline Six - What You Need to Know About Ford's Bulletproof Engine [4.9 Liter]](/img/n.gif)
I run an '86 300 in my '65 F100. Used 240's for 40 yrs. Last one went 169,000 mi...30 yrs of trouble free motoring. Now with the 300...What a difference in power! Still using the oil bath airfilter. One up grade for performance I've done...took off the one port restricting original exh.mnfld and put the efi "headers" on. Did that on the last 240 actually. What a diff that made! Now with two short pipes and mufflers. Using the new type dist too....Very happy with the 300.
I’ve heard abt that upgrade and if I have time I’d definitely love to give it a shot!
Years ago i had a 1984 F150 300 6 cylinder. At about 150 thousand miles i was having timing advane issues. I installed an old school point distributor system from a 1971 truck. It ran great.
Life saver bro. Thank you so much
I have same truck but min won't start after it been driven after it get up to temp it won't start to it cool off did yours do this just asking be for I tray this on my truck thank u
Got a question. That battery wire from the distributor, where did you end up hooking it to in the battery area? If that makes sense.
What is the piece called that the carb mounts on ? Not the intake but the thing that has the lines that run into the exhaust?
EGR
Thank you so much for the video- about to do this on my truck, only question I have is the location of the vacuum line from distributor to carb, can you tell me which port it goes into at the carb? New to all this but learning!
You probably want it connected to the manifold vacuum, so any vacuum port underneath the throttle blade. This will help for a better idle, then the mechanical advance will take over as the engine revs up.
I had read that the blue and white wire that goes to the old ignition control module, was actually +12 when starting and ignition on and running. Did you find that to be accurate? How did you tie in the vacuum spark advance on the distributor?
That sounds plausible but I did not check that wiring myself. And for the vacuum line I just ran it off the carb and to the distributor. Then used a zip tie to keep it secured to the distributor.
How are those amazon parts holding up
So with these mods…how many vacuum lines will be needed? Just the advance to the distributor? Sorry, but I’m brand new to this. Thanks!
Awesome vid thank you. Also what belt is on the power steering pump. I want to get my ac fixed and I can’t seem to find the belt like that
I’ve got a 15600 that goes around power steering, alternator, crank pulley and water pump. Then I also have a 15410 that goes around the alternator, water pump and crank.
How did you keep the temp and oil sensors working? Kept the harness in there sir stripped the harness?
The temp sensor and oil pressure sensor both need to stay in place and the wires should not be cut or disconnected. They go to the dash, not the computer, so the dash should still work. Did on mine.
2 things. one i wish u could post pic of the 3 roundish connectors on fenderwell of what u have to keep plugged in. best i can tell it all went to the computer mess. i know 1 is for the tach. greenish wire. but also what did u use to power the HEI from key switch?
My tachometer doesn’t work so I only kept on connector plugged in. It’s a four wire connector I believe. There should be a three (maybe two) wire connector next to it that I tested and found one of those wires gets 12v when the ignition is on and when the key is in the start position. Your best bet is to use a multimeter and find a wire with 12v in the “start” and “run” positions and use that.
Can you send me a link for the 2 parts
Did almost the same thing on my old 86 after the wiring harness had a thermal event...... I just used mid 70s Ford distributor and module instead of a HEI
How did u do that
@@ericb9914 I bought matching parts for a 75 f100 and wired it to match a 75 wiring diagram. There was a little more to it but I can't remember off the top of my head. I might be doing another similar project if I do I'll try and make a video.
did u keep oem spark plug wires? im going to be doing this soon and wires is were im hung up on atm.
Yes I was able to use the same ones
May be a dumb question, but does it not need an exciter wire? I’m a bit new to this
The alternator
I left the alternator wiring untouched and it never gave me any problems. So if it does need an exciter, I must not have change anything enough to cause it to not work.
@@cronedentside74 so my deal is that I ripped out all of my original wiring and am rewiring my whole truck. Got rid of the computer unit because I don’t want to deal with it (85 f150). I have a wire from the fuse box as an exciter wire, but am not sure if I need it for this alternator since it’s a one wire to the starter solenoid. I didn’t even know if there was a place to hook on an exciter wire for this alternator
Does this remove the need for the computer and Ignition coil?
Yes it does
@@cronedentside74 awesome
Did you have issues getting the HEI to fit flush?
I did not. Sometimes when doing a distributor I’ll run into that issue but usually turning the engine with a wrench just slightly helps the distributor go all the way in.
@@cronedentside74 thx so much. Just got that to work. I ordered the parts from your link. Is yours still holding up ?
@@mean-streak8871 sure is. Pretty happy with how it worked out.
@@cronedentside74 was hoping for little better gas mileage. Mine was flooding. Those feedbacks are junk. Uncle bought the truck brand new off the lot and he said it never did run exactly right. Had to replace the feed back carb within 6 years of it being new😂
Sorry to bother again but, did you have to make any adjustments on your carb? Mine idled when I first installed it and very strange but can’t get it to idle again. Not sure if I still have a vacuum leak or something else. Runs perfectly Down the road tho
Did you disconnect the ecc-IV. Under the dash?
How’s the mpg after the conversion?
I did not unplug that. And I’m getting about 14 mpg around town now. Not as good as I hoped honestly but definitely an improvement.
Wish we could do that in California
Changed the carb for the same one he has and it still passed smog. I got a 78 f150
We do if it's a 1975 or older, or you live in a rural area where it gets smogged once and that's it until you sell it.
Holy questions. Do any of you have a haynes manual and read it??? Or pay a real mechanic for info about what you want to know???
Always thankful for you help! My 79 ford f100 4.9 liter. has a no spark but does turn over condition. I replaced : new coil and connector. Ignition module. New fuel pump. I believe I put the distributor in close as I should(at 0’ degrees). Also how would I know if I have it in wrong? Where do I start😊🤝?
Carburetor upgrade good but I would not put a HEI in it I would use a Ford electronic distributor.
Hei is hardly an upgrade
I'm curious to know why you believe that.
Do I have to change out the distributor?
Because the computer is linked to the carburetor and distributor, it is recommended to change both. The computer won’t know what’s going on if all the sensors/solenoids on the carb are unplugged. It won’t advance the timing much at all and you can get low power at higher RPM. I had that problem.
I need to teach my mechanic this! He is trained highly, on EFI,but is ignorant to a degree, on this old dinasore tech,so to speak! Thanks for the best video on the internet explaing this operation.I can now assist with the procedure to my truck, by education to him and his crew! I would have had a really low performing ride without you sir! Again, thanks!
Advance would be non existent with computer controls removed and no vacuum advance canister on the old distributor that got advance thru electronic signals! That is the part we need to hammer into our heads,and those that would steer us wrong! You have helped us all to see the theory behind the swap!
my truck is currently getting 6mpg lol i’d be happy to get to 12