Stovepipe Heat Reclaimers / Energy Efficient Stove Pipe Radiators / exchanger / Cooling Fins
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- Stovepipe Heat Reclaimers / Add-on stove pipe radiators capture wasted heat going out your chimney. Exhaust pipe cooling fins. Efficient heat exchangers. www.stovepipehe...
Description, installation, how they work, and website purchasing. - Навчання та стиль
I’ve had these for 40 years -free heat. A small fan too
I bought 2 sets of these from amazon and they really work well. I see a gain of about 2000 btu per hour when stove is hot. That is about 15 -16 hrs in really cold weather this equates to a single stove load of lodge pole per day savings in sub zero weather. My stove is a Hybrid (cat+ dual burn) so NO creosote build up is created at all, just less heat to the outdoors.
How did you determine this?
IN THE OLD DAYS THEY'D ALSO USE LONG THIN SPRINGS AND SIMPLY WRAP THAT AROUND THE HOLE PIPE FROM STOVE TO WALL...DID THE SAME THING...HEAT FINS/SPRINGS RADIATE EXTRA HEAT INTO THE ROOM.
This is exactly the type of Heat Exchanger that MSR make to fit their large cookpots, and which works well.
A useful addition to the video demonstration would be temperature measurements above and below they radiators.
I did measure temperatures above and below the heat extractors. I also measured temperatures before installation and after installation. The heat exchangers reduce the temperature measurements at the top of the pipe.
What were the temps measured, before and after install, at the top of the pipe before the elbow?
Great video and great product, Dale. I wonder if this could be combined with a fan at the top of the chimney that spreads out any escaping heat, as well as one sitting on the stove itself. Thanks for the knowledge.
I highly recommend a fan at the base of the stovepipe blowing upward (the same direction as the heat rising). This definitely releases more heat. (like blowing on your hot soup)
I just ordered some. I plan to put them above my new wiseway pellet stove with a heat driven fan above them to move the air rising up them out unti the room. The entire stove and fan system will be non electric.
Unable to open FAQ's. Can you paint the heat exchangers with stove pipe paint to match color of existing pipe without loosing or affecting heat output ? I enjoyed your video, you explain and speak well. I ordered 12. Thank you.
I'm not Dale Stieg but yes, I believe you could paint them black and it would radiate even better. Black radiates heat better than silver or white.
Yes, you can paint the heat exchangers black. It will not reduce the ability to give off heat. Use a Hi Temp paint.
Idiot! If black worked best, a black option would be available. This video describes the most basic of stuff called heat transfer. Paint it and ill get
@@billywalik6411 name calling? Are you 10 years old? GROW UP
@@billywalik6411 Go back to bed. You have a long day tomorrow!
My workshop only gets to 55 degrees on those 0 to 20 degree days using my pot belley stove. I'm sold on these and buying 2 sets to see how they do.
Update? Would you recommend?
@@andrewc9790 Yes recommended, I've also mounted a box fan behind the pipe to help circulate the warm air.
Have you tried connecting the loops to form pipes runnig up the chimney? I think that it would increase the airflow and heat transfer.
I think that would be counterproductive, actually. Heat flows most efficiently when there's the greatest temperature difference between the source and sink, so you would want cool room air to come into contact with the radiator and then as soon as it's warmed up you want to swap it out for fresh cool air. If you had a continuous pipe going up the chimney then by the time the air got up to the top you'd be trying to move heat from the radiator into already-hot air.
If there was some way to actively force the outside air to flow *downward* through the radiator then you'd get a countercurrent exchange pattern, which actually would be more efficient. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countercurrent_exchange if you're interested in this. That's beyond the scope of simple radiators like these, though.
@@facedeer
I was thinking that the tubes would have a chimney effect, super heating the air the higher up it went. I love the idea of a small fan blowing into a manifold on top. Thanks for the link.
Could you scale these up and wrap them around a barrel stove?
Are these still available for purchase? I'm in Michigan and would like some to fit into a 6" wood stove pipe
Yes they are: michiganheatexchanger.com
I like the idea fella. Will make me the same item you are selling. Thanks for the idea Sir.
My 80%gas furnace exhaust creates condensation when outside temps are below 10•F on the chimney (needs pipe installed as currently the exhaust just goes up the brick chimney) alternatively would this cool the exhaust enough to prevent condensation or would that prevent the exhaust from going out because too cool?
I don't understand your question. Please re-phrase. Sentence too long.....use several sentences.
Possibly a stupid question, but wouldn't reclaiming heat from the stove pipe lead to lower stovepipe temperatures and therefore a buildup of creosote inside the pipe?
That is a good question, asked often.
There are many contributing factors to creosote buildup in stovepipe and chimneys.
The greatest factor (by far) in the creation of soot and creosote buildup in a chimney is burning wet or unseasoned wood coupled with a slow burning fire. With wet wood, the fire does not burn efficiently, produces a lot of smoke (unburned fuel) and produces a lot of steam. As a result, the humid soot and creosote can build up inside the stovepipe and chimney walls.
The next greatest factor is a chimney flue that is too large for your stovepipe. This increases “residence time” and decreases the draw and causes the flue gas to slow down, allowing it to condensate and build up on the chimney stack walls. It also contributes to a “smoky” stove when the door is opened to add wood.
The third greatest factor is when the chimney is located on the outside of the house (instead of running up through the middle of the house.) It creates a cooler flue / stack and, if burning wet wood, it creates a condensation chamber (like a whiskey still). It is where the moist flue gasses from burning wet wood is allowed to condense into water and creating a wet smoke and it sticks to the inside of the flue wall.
You can tell a good clean fire when there is very little smoke coming out of the chimney, only heat waves.
So, in answer to your question, “do the radiator rings lower the temperature too much so as to cause creosote buildup”? My answer is “no”, the stovepipe temperature factor is overshadowed by far by wood moisture and slow burning fires.
Dale everything you said is true to varing degrees. Lolol pun intended! I have heated my home hardcore for 37 seasons. I burn only the ultimately dried wood. The size of the stove, the air control design, the insulation of the stove, how the stove is run, the length of stovepipe run, the length of insulated pipe and type of chimney cap you run are also factors to be considered before pulling heat off the single wall pipe. In general I agree with your idea and in fact in the past have used a product similar to yours. I must say if a person is running a truely balanced system, the extra heat extraction ideas are not needed or even wanted. The biggest trouble is wood stoves are not sized for practical real-life conditions. Homes are too broken up to allow proper circulation of serious wood heat. Heating a home with wood effectively is an art! The old "chuck it in and let r rip" leads to serious air quality issues and pissed off neighbors. If all is balanced the neighborhood has a very, very ight and wonderfully pleasant smell of burning wood. No visible smoke emits from my chimney except for a very short 7-10 minute restart/cleaning twice a week during very morning hours. Kudos to your channel very good information! Well done!
Here in Finland we've used contraflow masonry heaters for centuries, they basically work on the same principle of sucking the heat out of the flue gasses. If the concept didn't work we wouldn't still use them.
But yeah, a good combustion is needed, dry firewood. It works well in masonry heaters because the fireplace due to the fireplace being lined with refractory material, gets very very hot achieving "complete-er" combustion of flue gasses. With that there's less stuff in the flue gasses that can become creosote.
Modern masonry heaters even include secondary air for this purpose. Many modern iron stoves work the same, they are also often lined with some refractory for the same purpose.
one good hot burning fire seems to take care of build up in my setup, i wouldn't worry about it
Can you get these in the same color as the stove pipe
Many customers paint them black with hi-temp paint. Use a scrap piece of stovepipe, mount the bands on it and spray at many angles for full coverage and inside the loops. Being mounted, it masks the flat surfaces of the bands that contacts the pipe. This way it will not affect heat transfer into the bands.
I once offered them painted black but during shipping they scratched each other without individual wrapping. The scratches really showed up. It was not worth my time.
Thinking of adding these to my 2 pellet stove flue's - anyone using them on pellet stoves? 3 inch ID flue pipe.
Many people are using them on pellet stoves. The 3 inch pellet stovepipe diameter is actually 3.6 inches because it is a double wall. For pellet stoves order the 3.6 inch diameter heat exchangers.