DIY Chimney Heat Reclaimer For Wood Burning Stove
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- Опубліковано 11 лис 2020
- Wood burning stoves waste a LOT of heat up the chimney. This DIY reclaimer saves way more and costs way less than store bought units.
Link to Blower : amzn.to/38GSPYF
DIY Double Barrel Heater/Grill/Smoker/Pizza Oven.
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Great video. Straight to the point without a lot of useless "Be sure to wear goggles when you cut metal" cruft. I used this same design to build a shorter one for the new woodstove in my living room (only two 8" tees and I used 8" to 6" reducers at each end for a more polished look) and it turned out great. From the ceiling up I used triplewall DuraPlus piping but stuck with singlewall in the house so I could use a heat reclaimer.
I'd post pictures but UA-cam doesn't allow that.
Your words describe it well. I almost used reducers instead of caps. I had trouble getting them on in the center of the non-crimped 6 inch pipe. I am sure I could have figured it out, but this was pretty easy. Good alternative though!
Lou !!! Awesome video!!! That's about the slickest most professional way to do things I've seen for a while! that heat sensor gun told the whole story perfectly! I'm building one of those !! Big Thank You!!!
That thing was pumping the heat back at you! Wow! Very cool way to maximize the efficiency of that stove Lou!
Thanks for the video. I built one just like it and it works great. Easy to do and not too much money. Saved me a ton!
heck yeah. short and sweet. to the point. awesome.
Great. Now I understand how these things work. Thanks.
Brilliant... keep up the good work!
im going to do it ... thanks Lou!
That is awesome - thanks for posting
Great video
I have a small potbelly stove in my shop with a long straight chimney exhaust and I'm losing the majority of my heat straight up and out the chimney. Had done some looking on purchasing some heat reclaimers and stumbled across your video. I really like your design much better and it's simplicity and efficiency and certainly it's affordability I plan on doing this soon! Thanks so much for sharing!
great idea! my stove pipe has a bend in it about 7ft off the ground so i probably only have room for the two t`s but thats fine with me
You can only buy the straight pipe in 24 inch lengths, but you can cut it to any smaller size you want. Maybe you can get at least 12 inches between the Ts
@@HowToLou I knocked it out already. The two t's barely fit but it looks good! The fan I had laying around probably won't handle the heat but I'll rock it till it falls apart. Illput some pics on my instagram tomorrow. Same handle.
I like 👍
Ya did in about a year my stove pipe will be shot time to make new and add a heat reclaimer tube
Great video. I have an 8" chimney though.
Make your reclaimer out of 10 inch pipe from the HVAC section of the hardware store.
@@HowToLou Galvanized?
Yes, so long as they stay below 392 degrees F. The fan keeps them near 100. Even with the fan off, convection will keep them under temp. If you want to be super safe, burn the pipes in a trash barrel outside, to remove the zinc, then color black with high heat spray paint.
Nice idea. However, the top section of flue is possibly going to tar up.
I like your design and may try it myself but the outlet air temp you read (242F) is definitely not correct as the meter is pointing at the inner pipe (which makes sense to be at 242F) and not the air temp. for air temp you should point at the side wall of the outlet pipe (best if done after few minutes after starting the fan)
Agreed, you are correct. Thank you. That does not affect my efficiency calculation, luckily.
Would something like this work for me: house has three levels - stove/fan and central circulation effectively warm level 1&2 but 3rd does not effectively get warm. If I cut a acess on 3rd I can get to the pipe 6ft below the roof line. Is it worth the effort to get enough heat to warm a 800sqft space?
Hi Lou, do you think this design would be as efficient with the fan lower & the heat blowing out the top? I have an add on to my building & the old window between the 2 sides I removed for heat flow is a bit higher than the stove. I would add 2 feet of pipe to the fan side so it wouldn’t melt. Great design BTW!
Yes, fan on bottom would work, but heat naturally rises, so its typically better to blow it out as low as possible to get more even heating of the room. Its also cooler, farther from the stove, but adding pipe after the fan should keep it safe.
It's less efficient. Not because hot air rises, but because a counterflow heat exchanger can be much more effective than a parallel flow heat exchanger. Think about it a little bit or read if you need to.
Does the heat damage the fan or electrical in any way?
Would love to be able to do something similiar with my kitchen multi fuel stove.
Nice Man! Were did you purchase the blower? Cfm? Rpm? Thanks, Kevin in northern Maine.
VIVOSUN 8 inch Inline Fan Duct Fan 420 CFM, HVAC Exhaust Intake Fan, Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord www.amazon.com/dp/B01C82T0QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9FAQEFXTGPH9T3BD37NP
where can you purchase the fan to make this heat reclaimer? please
VIVOSUN 8 inch Inline Fan Duct Fan 420 CFM, HVAC Exhaust Intake Fan, Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord www.amazon.com/dp/B01C82T0QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9FAQEFXTGPH9T3BD37NP
i was thinking about running it in reverse and run the hot air into a celling ducted system to other rooms.
Sure that would work. Just make sure you have a cold air return. You can’t push hot air into a room unless you allow the cold air to get out and back to the furnace.
Would you share a link to the blower please
Link to Blower : amzn.to/38GSPYF
I wonder if instead of cutting a cap, maybe a pair of reducers would be easier. Other than that, great idea.
No. I already tried that. Reducers will not fit completely over the smaller pipe. You can make them work, by cutting off the small end, but cutting a cap is easier.
I used reducers and cut them with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder. They slipped onto the 6" pipe nice and tight and look much nicer.
Do you get condensation in the stovepipe with such low exhaust temperatures?
While the outside of the pipe is lower, the center of the chimney is still way over 250 to keep water and creosote in vapor form and moving out. A completely vertical chimney also helps with smoke momentum.
I think it's key that this be used for wood combustion only, but not propane or natural gas. Those vapor fuels produce copious amounts of water when combusted and would condense on the chimney wall of below 212F, quickly rusting it out from the acid byproducts in the exhaust. That's why high efficiency furnaces and such use plastic vent pipes.
Would this work on a high temp rocket stove?
It could work on anything with a chimney. The purpose of a heat reclaimer is to distribute heat. The purpose of a rocket stove is to get high heat in one place. You will like this log jet rocket stove.
ua-cam.com/video/tNzz4k3FfPI/v-deo.html
Also, this design is better because a store bought reclaimer has tubes in the pipe that can have creosol build up and restrict flue flow... this wont.
Good point!
In theory, if you slowed down the chimney flow you could have a better efficiency exchange but not sure if doing so would push smoke out of the door of the stove
Its a tradeoff. You slow the flow by restricting combustion air intake with the front slide vents. Less air, less burn.
@@HowToLou I was thing on the flu slow it down past the heat reclaimer
True, I forgot about the chimney damper. It actually does basically the same thing as the inlet vents. Either slows the flow and the flame.
@@HowToLou yes sir, great design you came up with. The easy way to get more heat from it is a longer over pipe. I am on the lookout for a wood burning stove and piping them into my house somehow.
The problem with a longer horizontal chimney section is that they are harder to start when they are cold. You could blow heat from the exchanger directly into your home ducting.
where does any smoke or fumes go from the fire?
Smoke goes up the inner tube. Warm air goes down the outer tube
@@HowToLou Thanks, had to watch the video again to understand
Whats keeping it from blowing smoke back down into the house? I would like to build it myself but thats my concern.
The fan is blowing air around the hot chimney pipe, but never inside it with the smoke.
@@HowToLou
O so u have another pipe inside the main 1?
@@HowToLou thanks for your reply Lou
Yes, watch the video again. I break apart the 6 inch chimney, just to slip the 8 inch pipe over it, but then i put it back together, so that NO smoke gets out.
@@HowToLou ok thanks Lou
Only problem I had with this idea on mine was when the power went out the heat went up that pipe n melted my fan
To prevent that, add a 2 foot pipe between the fan and the tee.
I bought a metal, 8" duct fan. No parts to melt.
And the smoke?
The smoke stays inside the inner pipe and never mixes with the blower air. That is why you never see any smoke in the video.
I don't understand how are you not breathing the exhaust gases with this design?
Because he put 8” pipe over the 6” pipe that’s connected to his stove. The 8” pipe is creating an insulated environment and concentrating the radiant heat being put off from the 6” pipe. The blower and exhaust positioning turns that radiant heat into convection heat, distributing it across the room better than a fan blowing directly onto the pipe.
It’s worth noting that you shouldn’t turn the blower on until after your stove and pipe have come up to temperature. Once it has, there shouldn’t be any issues with the draft flow.
i may be the stupid one here, but... isn't this basically the same as not having a chimney? i mean, does the smoke and all the CO2 and CO get blown right into the room you're in?
The smoke travels in the sealed 6 inch pipe from the stove, up, through the roof. The warm air travels outside this pipe, but inside the 8 inch pipe. No smoke is blown in the room. Kind of like blowing a box fan on the hot chimney, but more efficient.
Lou, I'm a,... "What If a Guy ", !!!!!!
What if a guy ,.....installed two pipes between the drums
with a damper IN each pipe.
Open the back damper, ...close the front, for a fiery start.
Then close the back damper and open the front for a
longer burn time and better Burn ???
-
You would have a stove with the ability to have
the exhaust from the top drum in Back or Front.
Possibly mount a 30 gal drum to the front of the Top
drum " inside " to be accessed
by that 2nd door ?????. No smoker,....
but,..... a good oven and you could leave the 2nd door open
for more heat exchange.
-
Put Space Shuttle grade tile on the outer surface of
this thing because reentries into the
earths atmosphere,....... is gonna Burn it UP !!!!!
All good things to think about. You actually get a better burn with the connecting pipe in back. Combustion air flows in from the front, across all the burning wood, and out the back. An inner drum would be a good option if you wanted only heat and no smoke flavor, maybe for baking a cake or cookies. Space shuttle tiles would be cool, but also cool. They would keep the heat in the barrel and send it up the chimney
Won't this increase your risk of a chimney fire by quite a bit? I thought you needed the heat to clear out the creosote.
I was measuring outside surface temp. Inside the smoke is still over 250. Chimneys should be swept every season too
It's impossible to reclaim all of the heat out of the smoke. You're fine.
How did you fit it over the damper handle ?
The handle is in the cast iron part that connects the barrel to the 6 inch pipe. The pipe just lifts off, so the reclaimer never goes over the handle