Was going to give same advice. But if you do need the length then maybe choose a different board. Shame to exist 50 years only sacrifice so much in your sawdust bin.
@@RickMaxon I was also going to make the same suggestion, and came to the comments to see if had been covered. It hurts my heart to see a 1/3 of a 50 year old oak plank turned to sawdust. I think I would have found another board that was less twisted for my tabletop, and saved this one for shorter cuts to preserve more wood.
Try clamping at one end and then twisting the other end well past level, damping the wood and leaving for some time. Release one end and check straightness occasionally, it will remove most if not all of the twist over time.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Wow. I just purchased 1100 sq ft of 75 year old KY barn wood for my floor from a small local company. Now I know what those guys went through to make all that beautiful flooring.
Awesome video. Haven't seen anyone on youtube create a reclaimed wood panel desk top and I feel like you'd do it best. Laying reclaimed panels that are about 3/8" or 5/8" thick onto a piece of desk sized plywood, and then sanding and finishing would be a great video!
Instead of grabbing that sander, finish flattening with a jointer plane and smooth it with a #4 or #5 smoothing plane. Better flatness and prettier finish. Once you have a reference side you can joint an edge.
New to your channel...I'm really digging it!! Thanks for the tricks and tips. I'm no carpenter lol..I do what I can. I love working with reclaimed wood...thanks.
Lot of work. I have big pile of oak that came out of and old hog barn. 2×4 6 8 10 12 s. Some 16 foot long with some crazy twists and bends. Oh and plenty of nail to locate.most most of the good stuff was used for a loft in my barn, floor for a couple trailer I have, a lean to for fire wood and a few things I can't think of for now. Still got a huge pile of wonky boards left.
Has all the reclaimed lumber you use, dry kilned so you know there are no bores in the wood. If not, how do you deal with the bores? May be a good episode?!
What a great video. Subscribed! My only question is this; since you stopped shy of completely flattening the boards, especially that first one, how would you incorporate that into a table with a flat top? Obviously the top couldn’t be flat. Right?
It's wayyyyyy better to just put water buckets under the wood, put little campfires under the buckets, hang the wood a little bit above the buckets, and cover it all up and steam that wood. Once the wood is nice and boiled up, you can sandwich that wood to straighten it out with some other boards and clamps. Leave it out to dry. Once it's nice and dry, then you can send it through the jointer and planer. Or you can just hang the wood above a long pit fire, and constantly douse it in water until it becomes boiled, then go straight to the sandwich process. A million ways to boil or steam wood.
Hi! I’m new to woodworking and someone told me to use a jointer first to make the flat edges as reference then proceed to the thickness planer. I was just wondering why you didn’t use that process here?
I know that you mentioned that board would be used for a table. But if it's at all possible I would cut those down to smaller lengths. You would save more material that way. You probably had shavings for days!
About your skip-planing, to me skip-planing means that you keep turning the board over with each pass, removing small amounts from both sides equally. I turn the board over and end for end to keep the grain in the correct orientation.
@Jonny, how many passes did you make for this warped piece. I have a similar piece and may have already done almost 50 passes of 1/64th of inch. Just wondering if that is normal for such warped boards or is there something i might be doing wrong.
Gary Robertson I do also, and yes, it sucks. You can even see the left edge of the dust collecting part lifting away when he sends that second board through. That piece needs to be screwed in, and you have to take the 2 inch port apart and use the 4 inch part. I didn’t know they came apart until a year after I owned the planer.
@@JonnyBuilds 7 foot long. Not 7 foot square. ;) I hear you bud, it wasn't for your benefit, it was for others new to the trade. Thank you for the content and the reply.
I can't see anything about that board that would prevent getting it perfectly dimensioned. Your sled is really flimsy. For a board that long I'd make a sled from two pieces of 3/4 MDF. You'll get a dead flat surface provided your planer blades are properly alignend.
Its not, it is most likely chestnut. The way he is holding the board in one hand proved it as chestnut is not nearly as heavy like oak. Additionally, there are no "rays" in the grain from the video.
Thats not barn wood. No nail holes. And the twist is because its just a board that laid somewhere unfastened out in the weather to obtain the "barn wood" look. I would guess it to be about 1 to 2 years old.
At last, someone made a video dealing with long boards. Thank you so much!
Super good video. Some teachers explain so much better than others
If you know you don't need the length, you can save a lot of thickness by cutting in half before planing. Nice video!
Thank you David! The boards were for a 7 foot table, and they were cut 6 inches longer to account for potential snipe.
Was going to give same advice. But if you do need the length then maybe choose a different board. Shame to exist 50 years only sacrifice so much in your sawdust bin.
@@RickMaxon I was also going to make the same suggestion, and came to the comments to see if had been covered. It hurts my heart to see a 1/3 of a 50 year old oak plank turned to sawdust. I think I would have found another board that was less twisted for my tabletop, and saved this one for shorter cuts to preserve more wood.
@@dougsholly9323 Did it ever occur to above comment(s) he was using this as an extreme example for demonstration purposes?
@@brewsterly2927 did he need to so he could make his point?
I know this process well, but your explanation was crystal clear, and by far the best. Well done!
lol, new neighbor is in her 20's and has a friend doing this right now. Someone busted up her property. Just amazing, haha
Try clamping at one end and then twisting the other end well past level, damping the wood and leaving for some time. Release one end and check straightness occasionally, it will remove most if not all of the twist over time.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Very clear and straightforward flow to your presentation. Thx.
Good advice, I’ll try it.
Great video. Love to see repurposing of old lumber.
Finally...we know what skip planing is... :) thanks jonny!!
You may lose a lot but it’s much better than throwing it on the scrap heap ! Nice work 👍🇬🇧
Thanks for the informative video. I’m excited to use a planer for the first time.
Awesome job was expecting negative comments but glad to see that's not the case! Thanks for sharing your technique s
Wow. I just purchased 1100 sq ft of 75 year old KY barn wood for my floor from a small local company. Now I know what those guys went through to make all that beautiful flooring.
Awesome video. Haven't seen anyone on youtube create a reclaimed wood panel desk top and I feel like you'd do it best. Laying reclaimed panels that are about 3/8" or 5/8" thick onto a piece of desk sized plywood, and then sanding and finishing would be a great video!
Good tips, Jonny! That one board was one of the most twisted I’ve ever seen. He’s under a little stress. ;)
Haha, yeah that was a gnarly piece of wood.
i was suspicious as to how you could possibly turn that into a usable board, but you did it! great job
Thanks brother!
I wouldn't call that usable, that still needs a heaps more planning unless your making a fence or a feed trough.
@@Expedient_Mensch link us to ur woodworking tutorials! Would love to see the master at work.
@@Expedient_Mensch now ya see the problem with this claim is that he used it as part of a table top.
Instead of grabbing that sander, finish flattening with a jointer plane and smooth it with a #4 or #5 smoothing plane. Better flatness and prettier finish. Once you have a reference side you can joint an edge.
New to your channel...I'm really digging it!! Thanks for the tricks and tips. I'm no carpenter lol..I do what I can. I love working with reclaimed wood...thanks.
Thanks Dustin!
good video, thank you
Lot of work. I have big pile of oak that came out of and old hog barn. 2×4 6 8 10 12 s. Some 16 foot long with some crazy twists and bends. Oh and plenty of nail to locate.most most of the good stuff was used for a loft in my barn, floor for a couple trailer I have, a lean to for fire wood and a few things I can't think of for now. Still got a huge pile of wonky boards left.
Has all the reclaimed lumber you use, dry kilned so you know there are no bores in the wood. If not, how do you deal with the bores? May be a good episode?!
What a great video. Subscribed! My only question is this; since you stopped shy of completely flattening the boards, especially that first one, how would you incorporate that into a table with a flat top? Obviously the top couldn’t be flat. Right?
Know it’s an old video, hopefully you see this, when you built the table top did you do any jointing on the edges before gluing it up?
Great technique Jonny, thanks for sharing! 👍👊
Thanks Fred!
Awesome man. Nice explanation.
I think you would loose much less of material if you cut it in several pieces first. In any case, great job!! Thanks for the video!!
Really cool technique! I'll have to put this in my bag of tricks for use at some point.
Thanks Mike!
It's wayyyyyy better to just put water buckets under the wood, put little campfires under the buckets, hang the wood a little bit above the buckets, and cover it all up and steam that wood. Once the wood is nice and boiled up, you can sandwich that wood to straighten it out with some other boards and clamps. Leave it out to dry. Once it's nice and dry, then you can send it through the jointer and planer.
Or you can just hang the wood above a long pit fire, and constantly douse it in water until it becomes boiled, then go straight to the sandwich process. A million ways to boil or steam wood.
Hi! I’m new to woodworking and someone told me to use a jointer first to make the flat edges as reference then proceed to the thickness planer. I was just wondering why you didn’t use that process here?
This is a viable option to flatten boards if you don't have a jointer or if the boards are to wide for your jointer.
Hello from Enid
Fantastic! Straight to the point. Thanks for the video Jonny. I assume you are in OKC. I'm from Edmond. Thanks again.
I wonder if all that dirt on the boards is really hard on the planer knives?
I’ll have to remember this. Thanks you for share.
Thank you.
I know that you mentioned that board would be used for a table. But if it's at all possible I would cut those down to smaller lengths. You would save more material that way.
You probably had shavings for days!
It’s a 90” board for an 84” table.
I meant in general if some else was trying to flatten a board like this. Not much you can do in your scenario :)
Hey I'm a Maker Good tip!
@@JonnyBuilds do you have a video showing where you got this wood? It's neat how barns were made with the local wood. Around here it's all pine.
I talk about it in my Parsons table video.
Way to go Jonny!!! Enjoyed the lesson!!! Later, Murph
Thanks Murph!
Beautiful wood, and nice techniques.
Thanks Brian!
Very nice 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video,👍🔥👍🔥
any chance to fix the twist soaking the board on the water or using steam?
About your skip-planing, to me skip-planing means that you keep turning the board over with each pass, removing small amounts from both sides equally.
I turn the board over and end for end to keep the grain in the correct orientation.
David Januszewski completely agree. If you just keep pushing through one side it will just contour to the side that’s riding on the bottom
Any chance you have a video link to the table that you made with these pieces? It was really helpful thanks
My Parsons table video.
Hey what do you think of the dewalt planer .
It’s terrible.
Your process of plaining that wood is terrible. Not the Dewalt. U
@Jonny, how many passes did you make for this warped piece. I have a similar piece and may have already done almost 50 passes of 1/64th of inch. Just wondering if that is normal for such warped boards or is there something i might be doing wrong.
Isn’t there an attachment for the plainer as well that cleans splinters off without really removing material.
In extreme cases, cut it in half... or third. Plane separately and join them back. If done right, you wont notice the seams.
So question for you. I have the same planer, do you have and issue with the dust collect?
Gary Robertson I do also, and yes, it sucks. You can even see the left edge of the dust collecting part lifting away when he sends that second board through. That piece needs to be screwed in, and you have to take the 2 inch port apart and use the 4 inch part. I didn’t know they came apart until a year after I owned the planer.
There"s this cool tool called a jointer, it might save some time and glue before you plane. thanks for the vid and keep building.
they are kinda hard to find second hand and super expensive new
@@Lolfml I look at 10 jointers for sale per week. Missed quite a few opportunities to buy old craftsman units.
why didn't you go to your cutlist and cut that barnwood oak to size? the shorter the board the less net distortion, thus less loss.
How much 1 unit.delta tickness planer
Cut bad bits of timber like this to your shorter components to minimise the waste.
Yes, but when you’re not making a 7 foot table like I was.
@@JonnyBuilds
7 foot long. Not 7 foot square. ;)
I hear you bud, it wasn't for your benefit, it was for others new to the trade. Thank you for the content and the reply.
Oke bosch 🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩👍👍👍
Why aren't you gonna get it to a usable piece without skip planning? I make pieces as bad or worse than that usable with my number 6
Wouldn’t it be better to flip the board over each time you skip plane.
👍!
Nice, but man you really put a lot of trust in that glue
👍👍🇮🇩🇮🇩
The glue joint is stronger than the wood itself.
Hi) Do can you make wood box and delivery in Russia?
The wood would look much better if the job was not half done and leaving all those rough saw marks.
👍👍👍👌
I can't see anything about that board that would prevent getting it perfectly dimensioned. Your sled is really flimsy. For a board that long I'd make a sled from two pieces of 3/4 MDF. You'll get a dead flat surface provided your planer blades are properly alignend.
You don't know the Europe thickness planer?? It's 20 times faster..,look at the Europe method,you will see the differences.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Maybe cut it in half first you will lose less board.
It’s a 7’6” board for a 7’ Table.
That’s doesn’t look like oak
Maybe the Spaulding is throwing me off
Its not, it is most likely chestnut. The way he is holding the board in one hand proved it as chestnut is not nearly as heavy like oak. Additionally, there are no "rays" in the grain from the video.
We realized later that it’s pecan.
Great video but one peice of unsolicited advice, look into the lens and not at the flip screen.
Thats not barn wood. No nail holes. And the twist is because its just a board that laid somewhere unfastened out in the weather to obtain the "barn wood" look. I would guess it to be about 1 to 2 years old.
It’s literally reclaimed barn wood.
Looks like someone's never heard of timber framing.