Great documentation of accepted professional methods regarding planting beds...But Viewers need to know how this mulching method should never be utilized around the base of existing trees. Especially young trees when they are still sending new Roots radially outbound from trunk. And when increasing size of tree ring between grass and mulch. One must remember that fibrous feeder roots growing away from tree exist just one or two in below ground surface, could be damaged if one digs the grass out too deeply. While plants and Woody bushes can regrow an entirely new feeder root system to get above suffocating mulch and continually rising grade. And can regrow fibrous root system if mound was similarly cultivated like was in this video. Around trees, is very important that landscapers first rake out most of old mulch layer before applying new. To avoid artificially raising grade by continually adding mulch on top of mulch which inevitably breaks down and transforms into black soil. Otherwise just putting down new soil would be easier if goal was to increase height of mound plants sit on.
CONCERTMAN - thank you for bringing up these points. In regards to damaging the feeder roots by expanding the bed, as you probably know, these “roots form rapidly after injuries” and “are as dynamic as the population of leaves in the air above, if not more so” (arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/1989-49-4-tree-roots-facts-and-fallacies.pdf). So, while root injury is always a potential concern, we feel that this contorted hazelnut will have minimal impact from the little root severance it incurred this far away from its trunk. To your point though, if someone were to sever a much greater portion of roots, particularly during a high-energy or stressful time for the tree (leafing out, summer drought, flowering/fruiting, etc.), the tree may not sustain that injury as well. In regards to the build-up of mulch, again, this is also a valid concern that needs to be watched. As you state, mulch should not be allowed to build-up significantly around tree root systems. Based on our experience, we have had great success if we maintain a combined layer (new mulch, old mulch, and subsequent decomposed mulch) of 3-4 inches of a premium bark mulch. We rarely have to remove material if mulch is applied every three years, but will remove material as needed when more frequent mulch applications are performed. While it may differ in that we are applying a thicker layer of material less frequently, this situation could be considered analogous to trees in a natural forest setting. In that setting a lesser amount of leaves, needles, and other organic debris are regularly applied without removal, but on a more frequent basis. A couple other reasons that we are not concerned in this specific instance are 1) there will be minimal compaction from foot traffic (center of a residential planting) and 2) while it isn’t ideal, even if there is minimal build-up, the tree will still likely perform better in an excessive layer of fresh and decomposing mulch, than what it would if we were to plant it strictly in our native soil, which is a very dense clay. So, as always, techniques may need to be adjusted accordingly for local conditions. Beyond these points, it is worth mentioning again (as Joe points out in the video), mulch should never be applied directly around the stems or trunks of plants. We see more problems from this than we do from root severance and mulch build-up. But again, thank you again for addressing these other important issues.
Thank you Gloria! As you know, there are a variety of mulches. Our favorite and the one that we try to use on most projects (depending upon customer input) is our shredded oak mulch. It is a twice-shredded oak bark mulch blend (mostly oak, but some other hardwoods are also present). It is nutritious, looks great, applies easy (since it is twice-shredded it lays evenly), holds moisture (but yet drains well), holds in place fairly well (versus a lighter wood, such as cedar), insulates roots, prevents soil compaction, and controls weed growth. This may not be available locally, so our first recommendation would be to stick to something organic - i.e. something that decomposes. Rocks and man-made mulches (like rubber) may be low maintenance, but they don't provide a lot of the benefits that we mention above. If you are using a dyed mulch, make sure you know where the wood is coming from (many times it is recycled wood that may be treated or have other chemicals embedded in it) and be sure to check to make sure that the dye is plant/environment safe. Having said that, not all organic mulches are even great (such as grass clippings) and there are some other complexities involved. We found the following article, which dives deeper into this topic: www.finegardening.com/article/mulch-for-a-healthy-garden. We hope this helps!!
Michael - great question. There isn't really a need to remove the old mulch (if not using fabric), unless it is building up too high against your plants, it is building up so much that it is spilling over into your yard, or for another aesthetic reason. Because the mulch decomposes, this could take multiple mulch applications and many years.
I need to pull up my old plastic bed liner and do this. I would never put in any kind of border if I had to do it, again. I love the way you edge the lawn. (I wonder how difficult it will be to pull up that plastic edge?)
Bonnie Amey I’m assuming you have that black plastic edging? That stuff is usually pretty easy to remove as it is held in with small stakes or sometimes no stakes at all. Stick a shovel under the edge to pry it up and work your way down. You can do it Bonnie!! That stuff can look decent at first, but it always ends up all flabberjockeyed and buried. I definitely like a nice grass edge a lot more. Good luck
Luz - the fabric cloth generally isn't needed when using a woody mulch. An appropriate amount of woody mulch forms a natural weed barrier. As that mulch breaks down, it composts into wonderful food for your plants. We do use a fabric cloth when we use stone instead of mulch.
My name is Dorothy Brown I live in California City California it is very dry and like to do a flower bed can you give me some temp tip on how to do it it never had it never had a flower bed. so it's new dry Sandy it is my first flower bed I'm doing
Dorothy, we appreciate the question! Unfortunately, it is difficult to give you relevant tips regarding your flower bed, as we aren't familiar with your climate, your soil, or your specific site characteristics. The plants that you would use and possibly even the techniques used for planting them, are probably much different than what we would do here in the Midwest. You may need to amend your soil, depending upon what types of flowers you plan on planting. It would be best for you to contact someone locally to get some help. Best wishes on your flower bed! We would love to see some photos when you are done.
Great video
thank you
Excellent explanation, thank you!
Legend has it he just kept on making the bed bigger until the house fell into it lol
Good explanations. Tfs. 💕
Super helpful thanks!
Great documentation of accepted professional methods regarding planting beds...But Viewers need to know how this mulching method should never be utilized around the base of existing trees. Especially young trees when they are still sending new Roots radially outbound from trunk.
And when increasing size of tree ring between grass and mulch. One must remember that fibrous feeder roots growing away from tree exist just one or two in below ground surface, could be damaged if one digs the grass out too deeply.
While plants and Woody bushes can regrow an entirely new feeder root system to get above suffocating mulch and continually rising grade. And can regrow fibrous root system if mound was similarly cultivated like was in this video.
Around trees, is very important that landscapers first rake out most of old mulch layer before applying new. To avoid artificially raising grade by continually adding mulch on top of mulch which inevitably breaks down and transforms into black soil.
Otherwise just putting down new soil would be easier if goal was to increase height of mound plants sit on.
CONCERTMAN - thank you for bringing up these points.
In regards to damaging the feeder roots by expanding the bed, as you probably know, these “roots form rapidly after injuries” and “are as dynamic as the population of leaves in the air above, if not more so” (arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/1989-49-4-tree-roots-facts-and-fallacies.pdf). So, while root injury is always a potential concern, we feel that this contorted hazelnut will have minimal impact from the little root severance it incurred this far away from its trunk. To your point though, if someone were to sever a much greater portion of roots, particularly during a high-energy or stressful time for the tree (leafing out, summer drought, flowering/fruiting, etc.), the tree may not sustain that injury as well.
In regards to the build-up of mulch, again, this is also a valid concern that needs to be watched. As you state, mulch should not be allowed to build-up significantly around tree root systems. Based on our experience, we have had great success if we maintain a combined layer (new mulch, old mulch, and subsequent decomposed mulch) of 3-4 inches of a premium bark mulch. We rarely have to remove material if mulch is applied every three years, but will remove material as needed when more frequent mulch applications are performed. While it may differ in that we are applying a thicker layer of material less frequently, this situation could be considered analogous to trees in a natural forest setting. In that setting a lesser amount of leaves, needles, and other organic debris are regularly applied without removal, but on a more frequent basis. A couple other reasons that we are not concerned in this specific instance are 1) there will be minimal compaction from foot traffic (center of a residential planting) and 2) while it isn’t ideal, even if there is minimal build-up, the tree will still likely perform better in an excessive layer of fresh and decomposing mulch, than what it would if we were to plant it strictly in our native soil, which is a very dense clay. So, as always, techniques may need to be adjusted accordingly for local conditions.
Beyond these points, it is worth mentioning again (as Joe points out in the video), mulch should never be applied directly around the stems or trunks of plants. We see more problems from this than we do from root severance and mulch build-up. But again, thank you again for addressing these other important issues.
Very helpful!
Thank you
thanks for the video!
Great work
than you Clayton!
Great video. What is a good mulch? Thank you
Thank you Gloria! As you know, there are a variety of mulches. Our favorite and the one that we try to use on most projects (depending upon customer input) is our shredded oak mulch. It is a twice-shredded oak bark mulch blend (mostly oak, but some other hardwoods are also present). It is nutritious, looks great, applies easy (since it is twice-shredded it lays evenly), holds moisture (but yet drains well), holds in place fairly well (versus a lighter wood, such as cedar), insulates roots, prevents soil compaction, and controls weed growth. This may not be available locally, so our first recommendation would be to stick to something organic - i.e. something that decomposes. Rocks and man-made mulches (like rubber) may be low maintenance, but they don't provide a lot of the benefits that we mention above. If you are using a dyed mulch, make sure you know where the wood is coming from (many times it is recycled wood that may be treated or have other chemicals embedded in it) and be sure to check to make sure that the dye is plant/environment safe. Having said that, not all organic mulches are even great (such as grass clippings) and there are some other complexities involved. We found the following article, which dives deeper into this topic: www.finegardening.com/article/mulch-for-a-healthy-garden. We hope this helps!!
@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape Yea man Oak Mulch is great!
At what point do you remove old layers of mulch? Over the years, I have added mulch and I'm curious if removing 2-4 inches of old is worth the effort?
Michael - great question. There isn't really a need to remove the old mulch (if not using fabric), unless it is building up too high against your plants, it is building up so much that it is spilling over into your yard, or for another aesthetic reason. Because the mulch decomposes, this could take multiple mulch applications and many years.
Mulch name plese
Cool.
How to make a flower bed
Never push the mulch up into the cut you make and level to grass. The grass will just grow right into your mulch bed again. Keep it low on the cut.
Thank you for the suggestion. We redefine the bed edge when we remulch the bed.
👍 Great.
New sub friend here.
I need to pull up my old plastic bed liner and do this. I would never put in any kind of border if I had to do it, again. I love the way you edge the lawn. (I wonder how difficult it will be to pull up that plastic edge?)
Bonnie Amey I’m assuming you have that black plastic edging? That stuff is usually pretty easy to remove as it is held in with small stakes or sometimes no stakes at all. Stick a shovel under the edge to pry it up and work your way down. You can do it Bonnie!! That stuff can look decent at first, but it always ends up all flabberjockeyed and buried. I definitely like a nice grass edge a lot more. Good luck
Tyler K. O
You don’t use fabric cloth any reason why? Need your advise
Luz - the fabric cloth generally isn't needed when using a woody mulch. An appropriate amount of woody mulch forms a natural weed barrier. As that mulch breaks down, it composts into wonderful food for your plants. We do use a fabric cloth when we use stone instead of mulch.
Van Zeeland Nursery & Landscape thanks for you advice
Did he get orange paint on his hose?
Laura - I think one could avoid painting their hose if they were careful
@@dlindens ...famous last words...LOL
@@laurastone6578 LOL. I guess that's a good reason to hire a professional :)
My name is Dorothy Brown I live in California City California it is very dry and like to do a flower bed can you give me some temp tip on how to do it it never had it never had a flower bed. so it's new dry Sandy it is my first flower bed I'm doing
Dorothy, we appreciate the question! Unfortunately, it is difficult to give you relevant tips regarding your flower bed, as we aren't familiar with your climate, your soil, or your specific site characteristics. The plants that you would use and possibly even the techniques used for planting them, are probably much different than what we would do here in the Midwest. You may need to amend your soil, depending upon what types of flowers you plan on planting. It would be best for you to contact someone locally to get some help. Best wishes on your flower bed! We would love to see some photos when you are done.
Put the hose in a plasterers bucket/garden bucket of warm water to supple it up..Great video thanks for the advise
I mean what kind of mulch you using
Oak Mulch Blend.