Just started getting a bump when breaking and taking off from a stop, sure enough the upper mount was pancaked in on itself as you showed, mine is a 99 z-24 convertible, I have the front bodykit now and side skirts showing up soon, rear bumper bodykit is a hard find for these cars, any convertible parts are becoming quite pricey aswell as they are not made anymore. I can tell you, the convertibles are fun and well made, love the parade boots and cover that hide the top mechanicals nicely aswell.
@@416diy Really? This is somewhat of a rare vehicle? I just bought the car actually, my neighbor left it sitting in front of his house, mine has 215k Miles. Any information I should know about this. I already love this vehicle!
The newest ones are from 2005, most of those have either rotted out or fallen apart. I had an 03 Sunfire coupe for about 8 years. I only sold it because I inherited a newer car. I regret it deeply, my plans were to cut the roof off and make it a permanent convertible for one final summer. The best advice I can give you for that car is to make sure the oil is changed regularly and topped up as needed. There are plastic components in that engine which will quickly overheat and crumble if the oil is neglected.
@@416diy These are VERY good cars !! Going to be doing a motor mount change soon is how i came here, lol. Mu '02 has near 300,000 kms on it, just keeps on going, near honda/toyota like reliabilty car for me.
Great vid! Thnx. Im having problems with my engine moving way too much when i put it from park into drive or reverse. When i put it into drive will make the engine do a very loud thud and makes the car move. Ive tried replacing everything any idea what it could be?
Have you checked or changed the transmission mount on the driver side (assuming it has automatic transmission)? It’s a metal plate with a bushing, usually 10 or 15 bucks, and miserable to replace.
@13:26 I have Shop Manual for 2003 Chevy Cavalier. It is really confusing for those specs. At the end of the Upper Engine Mount job they give Engine Mount-to-Body Nuts and Engine Mount-to Bracket Bolts 41 Ft-lbs. But then next statements is: Tighten the Engine Mount Bolts to 81 Ft-lbs. This torque is also present for Engine Mount Bracket bolts (2 horizontal Bolts which attach that Bracket to the Engine). I think 81 Ft-lbs is for those horizontal bolts, but why they are mentioned for Engine Mount Replacement? Probably to double check if they are at that particular Torque. Torque 41 Ft-lbs looks more correct to me, as you say to snag and then 1/4 turn. Update: Everyone (including Dealer) says it is 41 Ft-lbs. @ 14:14 that nut is under 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (fm/Shop manual), if someone needs.
This is the best film on the Upper Mount replacement, thank you very much. I need to replace it on 2003 Chevy Cavalier, exactly same engine and everything. Please could you tell, if I can remove the Lower Engine Mount (Dog Bone) before the replacement of the Upper Engine Mount, so I can move the engine easier. As far as I understand that lower Mount doesn't keep the engine in vertical direction, but just prevent it from rocking back and forth. And can you lift the engine by that vertical hook (vertical plate with a round hole in it) on the left from the pan (if you look fm the front, it is on passenger side @ 0:40) instead of lifting by the Oil Pan? In one film I saw he said it is better to lift the engine by that hook, but in the Service Manual I have for that car, it says to lift how you did. Thank you again.
I know the hook you’re talking about, and to be honest I’m not too sure if I’d use it, as it’s very thin. I always use the pan with wood between it and the jack. As for the dog bone/torque strut mount, yes, I would absolutely recommend disconnecting it, as it would make the engine much easier to move. I didn’t do it on this job, but I definitely would next time. You probably noticed we had a bit of difficulty repositioning the engine. That lower mount is usually pretty worn out if it’s original, and they’re cheap, so maybe just replace that too if it’s old. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@416diy Thank you for the replay, my notification was off and I didn't see your answer before now. I bought long time ago a set (Upper Engine Mount, Dog Bone (Lower Engine Mount), and Transmission Mount) fm/Amazon, and I plan to replace Upper and lower Engine Mounts. I went to Dealer for diagnostics to find out why the car occasionally makes whining sound turning left. They told me that the Upper Mount is worn and the engine is sitting too low and scratching smth on the bottom on turns. To be more exact the girl (Service Advisor) told me that the Lower Mount is worn and they want to replace it for ~$650, kind of mechanic showed her smth on the bottom (she didn't know what it is). I knew that it is pretty easy to replace that Dog Bone, so refused their service and took the car home. On the further research I realized that the Dog Bone can't alter the vertical position of the Engine anyhow, and it should be the Upper Mount. Looked in the paper they printed for the diagnostics, and it said "the Upper Mount" in that paper, Lower Mount wasn't mentioned at all. Anyway I'm replacing both. I would replace and the Transmission Mount, but no films for this car, so I'll postpone on that.
Do you have automatic transmission? There's a reason there's no video on how to do the automatic mount, it's because it's a disaster. The expansion bolt in the driver side wheel well will be rusted and seized in place. It looks like a nightmare to do, and you may have to source a couple of other small parts, like the expansion bolt, which are all discontinued. The tranny mount is referred to as an insert, and it's cheap, usually $15 or so. It's attached to a larger bracket on the tranny, and I think you have to pull the bracket and insert out together to separate the two pieces.
@@416diy Yes, it is automatic. I do on our cars some things on suspension, like CV axles (I replaced on 2: 2003 Chevy Cavalier and 2001 Saturn SL2), Struts and Shocks (I did on all 3 we have: Saturn, Chevy and 2009 Nissan Sentra). But this Transmission Mount I'd better go to Dealer. Usually I'm not quite satisfied with their work, but still on this one probably it will be the best solution. Thank you that you wrote.
Essentially, yes. Something I didn’t do here, but I would recommend, is to first disconnect the torque strut mount that sits in front of the passenger side lower control arm. You’ll be able to move the engine around easier.
Made changing my 2005 cavalier mount easy. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
So much fun 💀… I couldn’t get the tensioner off so I just had fun with the belt on and off. Great video though!!!
Just started getting a bump when breaking and taking off from a stop, sure enough the upper mount was pancaked in on itself as you showed, mine is a 99 z-24 convertible, I have the front bodykit now and side skirts showing up soon, rear bumper bodykit is a hard find for these cars, any convertible parts are becoming quite pricey aswell as they are not made anymore.
I can tell you, the convertibles are fun and well made, love the parade boots and cover that hide the top mechanicals nicely aswell.
Thank you for this video. My 2003 Eco Tec 2.2 needs replacement mounts. I realize I can do this myself without a pricey bill. Thanks!
Keep it alive, there aren't many left!
@@416diy Really? This is somewhat of a rare vehicle? I just bought the car actually, my neighbor left it sitting in front of his house, mine has 215k Miles. Any information I should know about this. I already love this vehicle!
The newest ones are from 2005, most of those have either rotted out or fallen apart. I had an 03 Sunfire coupe for about 8 years. I only sold it because I inherited a newer car. I regret it deeply, my plans were to cut the roof off and make it a permanent convertible for one final summer. The best advice I can give you for that car is to make sure the oil is changed regularly and topped up as needed. There are plastic components in that engine which will quickly overheat and crumble if the oil is neglected.
@@416diy These are VERY good cars !! Going to be doing a motor mount change soon is how i came here, lol. Mu '02 has near 300,000 kms on it, just keeps on going, near honda/toyota like reliabilty car for me.
@@sevendyseven4090 300 is impressive!
Great vid! Thnx. Im having problems with my engine moving way too much when i put it from park into drive or reverse. When i put it into drive will make the engine do a very loud thud and makes the car move. Ive tried replacing everything any idea what it could be?
Have you checked or changed the transmission mount on the driver side (assuming it has automatic transmission)? It’s a metal plate with a bushing, usually 10 or 15 bucks, and miserable to replace.
@13:26 I have Shop Manual for 2003 Chevy Cavalier. It is really confusing for those specs. At the end of the Upper Engine Mount job they give Engine Mount-to-Body Nuts and Engine Mount-to Bracket Bolts 41 Ft-lbs. But then next statements is: Tighten the Engine Mount Bolts to 81 Ft-lbs. This torque is also present for Engine Mount Bracket bolts (2 horizontal Bolts which attach that Bracket to the Engine). I think 81 Ft-lbs is for those horizontal bolts, but why they are mentioned for Engine Mount Replacement? Probably to double check if they are at that particular Torque. Torque 41 Ft-lbs looks more correct to me, as you say to snag and then 1/4 turn.
Update: Everyone (including Dealer) says it is 41 Ft-lbs.
@ 14:14 that nut is under 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (fm/Shop manual), if someone needs.
This is the best film on the Upper Mount replacement, thank you very much. I need to replace it on 2003 Chevy Cavalier, exactly same engine and everything. Please could you tell, if I can remove the Lower Engine Mount (Dog Bone) before the replacement of the Upper Engine Mount, so I can move the engine easier. As far as I understand that lower Mount doesn't keep the engine in vertical direction, but just prevent it from rocking back and forth. And can you lift the engine by that vertical hook (vertical plate with a round hole in it) on the left from the pan (if you look fm the front, it is on passenger side @ 0:40) instead of lifting by the Oil Pan? In one film I saw he said it is better to lift the engine by that hook, but in the Service Manual I have for that car, it says to lift how you did. Thank you again.
I know the hook you’re talking about, and to be honest I’m not too sure if I’d use it, as it’s very thin. I always use the pan with wood between it and the jack. As for the dog bone/torque strut mount, yes, I would absolutely recommend disconnecting it, as it would make the engine much easier to move. I didn’t do it on this job, but I definitely would next time. You probably noticed we had a bit of difficulty repositioning the engine. That lower mount is usually pretty worn out if it’s original, and they’re cheap, so maybe just replace that too if it’s old. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@416diy Thank you for the replay, my notification was off and I didn't see your answer before now. I bought long time ago a set (Upper Engine Mount, Dog Bone (Lower Engine Mount), and Transmission Mount) fm/Amazon, and I plan to replace Upper and lower Engine Mounts. I went to Dealer for diagnostics to find out why the car occasionally makes whining sound turning left. They told me that the Upper Mount is worn and the engine is sitting too low and scratching smth on the bottom on turns. To be more exact the girl (Service Advisor) told me that the Lower Mount is worn and they want to replace it for ~$650, kind of mechanic showed her smth on the bottom (she didn't know what it is). I knew that it is pretty easy to replace that Dog Bone, so refused their service and took the car home. On the further research I realized that the Dog Bone can't alter the vertical position of the Engine anyhow, and it should be the Upper Mount. Looked in the paper they printed for the diagnostics, and it said "the Upper Mount" in that paper, Lower Mount wasn't mentioned at all. Anyway I'm replacing both. I would replace and the Transmission Mount, but no films for this car, so I'll postpone on that.
Do you have automatic transmission? There's a reason there's no video on how to do the automatic mount, it's because it's a disaster. The expansion bolt in the driver side wheel well will be rusted and seized in place. It looks like a nightmare to do, and you may have to source a couple of other small parts, like the expansion bolt, which are all discontinued. The tranny mount is referred to as an insert, and it's cheap, usually $15 or so. It's attached to a larger bracket on the tranny, and I think you have to pull the bracket and insert out together to separate the two pieces.
@@416diy Yes, it is automatic. I do on our cars some things on suspension, like CV axles (I replaced on 2: 2003 Chevy Cavalier and 2001 Saturn SL2), Struts and Shocks (I did on all 3 we have: Saturn, Chevy and 2009 Nissan Sentra). But this Transmission Mount I'd better go to Dealer. Usually I'm not quite satisfied with their work, but still on this one probably it will be the best solution. Thank you that you wrote.
What the name of that light?
So you just draw the engine up to the mount by the bolts?
Essentially, yes. Something I didn’t do here, but I would recommend, is to first disconnect the torque strut mount that sits in front of the passenger side lower control arm. You’ll be able to move the engine around easier.
@@416diy Just wanted to ask @ 10:09 if you disconnected the Dog Bone on the bottom. Thank you for the answer in your comment.
👌
The torque specs are as much muscle as ya got or whatever your impact can do! Lmao