If you found this video helpful, you'll also want to watch my video on how to mix mortar for bricklaying ua-cam.com/video/pTrISIr8614/v-deo.html If you need support or advice with your extension or new build, I recommend visiting beprojectwise.co.uk
Thank you, as an old lady nearly 80 I thought it can't be that difficult but didn't want to make any stupid mistakes. Think I can manage this bit by bit.
Oh man. I'm currently on a machine oil bender myself. It all started with some squeaky door hinges, and now I have my second kid on the way! I might work in Finance, but F me if I'm not a builder!
@@Sezicoolcat2 I’m pleased I was able to give you the confidence boost you needed. Take it slow, enjoy the process and you’ll end up with a great result, also with more cash in your pocket! Check out my ‘How to mix mortar’ video, that’ll be useful for you.
Appreciate the way you showed the movements very clearly. So many of these videos don't slow things down enough because experts forget what it's like to be a complete novice. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thank you so much, this was carefully explained in a simple way! Very much looking forward to feeling a real achievement by saying “actually we did this ourselves!” A real accomplishment for me with a secretarial background!
It's nice to see a tradesman that can actually do pointing correctly. I live in Northumberland and it is just about impossible to find somebody who can do pointing correctly.
I do not get why though, blade the joints out to 20mm max, fill and point, its one of the most time consuming but easiest jobs about laying and brick work
Thank you for explaining each tool. I am doing a DIY and couldn't figure out how to use all the tools you explained in your video. I appreciate the side by side comparation really helped me think through how to approach the job.
Excellent. I'll be trying this on a front 4x6 foot step made of a horizontal facing of brick where a lot of the mortar has broken up and is loose. Your technique helps me understand how to work with the mortar. Really cool. Can't wait to try it and fix that situation.
Ok kids, time for a bit of expert teaching: The soft mortar that he rakes out easily is lime mortar. This is just lime and sand and is what these old houses were originally built with. No cement. The grey stuff in the joints is cement repointing which someone applied a good few years ago but is now failing. He's using a disc on period brickwork which can be very damaging and also creates a lot of dust. Best to connect to a decent vacuum. What's on the trowel is cement mortar. This is neither flexible nor porous and seals joints leading to damp and spalled brickwork. Cement has all the lime burnt out of it and is very unfriendly to the environment. Always use lime on lime built houses. Don't even add cement to your lime mortar otherwise it becomes a cement mortar. Always use like-for-like materials.
I'm using 4 sand .5 cement and .5 lime on an old 1900s house . I tried using just lime and sand but found the mix too soft and light in colour. The current mix I'm using seems to match the existing quite well in terms of hardness but I'm still unsure if its right
@@greyman8695 That's not too bad a mix. Translated when doubled up, i.e. 1:1:8, then you wouldn't be too far off the historic cement mix of 1:2:9. This proved to be successful in building when cement made it's way on-site after WW2. If I were to use cement then personally I'd go with 1:2:9 as that has been found to be without problems as far as cracking is concerned. But it won't be vapour permeable so could lead to moisture retention - otherwise known as damp. If you reduce your volumes, i.e. use smaller containers with which to gauge, then you could easily get a more masonry-friendly mortar than 1:1:8.
@@michaeljamesdesign I do have quite a few spalled bricks from some previous ivy growth . I wonder if I should maybe experiment with a lime mix again and cut out the cement totally.
@@greyman8695 Cement and lime are mutually exclusive materials. Neither will complement one another. Stick with a good NHL3.5 and you won't go too far wrong. 1:2.5 but don't use building sand as it's not angular enough and it's unwashed which makes it look shite. Combine some nice sharp and another washed aggregate of your choice.
Great video. Thanks. One thing that would be helpful is to show any tips you have for applying the mortar into VERTICAL spaces between bricks, when the mortar is more likely to fall off your trowel.
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to make more bricklaying videos with some of those covering trowel control. Essentially the principle of pointing a horizontal joint (bed joint) and the vertical joint (perp joint) are the same. Tap the trowel when you have some mortar on it to knock out the air as it’ll stick better to the trowel. When you get mortar on the pointing trowel angle the trowel back slightly so the mortar doesn’t slide off. Also limit the time that you hold the trowel vertical.
Excellent!! just what I've been looking for...step by step detail. Easy to follow (great that you showed the two options), I'll definitely be trying this 👍👍
“Knock off all the snots with a brush” 😂 thats me leaving little bits around the joints! great video. This reassured me i can repoint my old front garden wall albeit very slowly like a rookie 😅
Yeah that’s right, snots are the excess mortar left after jointing. When they’re dry they’re easy to get rid of by brushing them off. Slow is better than not having a go. Good luck pointing your garden wall.
My last brick repointer shared with me that, when the new morter fully dries, and I raised concern about the color difference between the new morter and the old morter; he explained that he gives the new morter an acid wash to age the new morter so that it matched the 50 year old morter color. It really made difference. I have seen so often where the new morter stands out on other houses and the acid wash was prevented the repointed sections from standing out. I was just curious if you have used the acid wash technique, and if so, it might make a good video for your subscribers as one technique.
@@pensionat60 pleased you found the video helpful John. I’ve never been to Cornwall on your side of the pond, is it as nice as the Cornwall here in the UK?
Since I have never been to Cornwall in the UK I can’t honestly compare them. We have a population of about 47k. We are situated on the Canada US 🇺🇸 border. We use to frequent the US when money was almost on par but now theirs is $1.41 to ours so it has been sometime since we have been over there. We use to live in Montreal, Quebec but it got too political for our wellbeing so we moved on some 33years ago. It worked out to be a positive. Cheers!
Hi really enjoyed the video the narrative was v good. I live in a single brick thick property and wondered if you had any advice for brick repairs in such a property
Thanks Ian! You don’t get many single brick properties. Yes, single skin but these are often 9 inch thick. In terms of repairs It all depends on the extent of repair needed. Chopping out a few bricks is more than fine if they’ve have blown faces. Equally repointing the wall if the mortar is crumbling is also possible. What state is your wall in?
@@BerkleyBuilds Some of the bricks facing has cracked / fallen away and I don't want to remove the single bricks as this may mean I have to replaster. How about a video on repairing bricks where the facing is shot?
@@ianw2955 sadly that type of video isn’t one I’m in a position to film currently as I don’t have a wall with blown bricks that I could film. However, if you don’t want to chop out a brick completely because of the fear of damaging plaster inside, then I would suggest an alternative solutions. Provided it’s only a few bricks you could create some brick slips to replace the face of the brick only, while keeping the back of the brick in one piece.
great tips with the hand movement here ,me mortar gun with sloppy mix all day long, fill joints leave proud wait till touch dry then rub up with tool brush off much quicker .
A sloppy mix for someone experienced may be quicker but for someone who’s a DIYer, it would be messy. My method although slower, gets the best results. A mortar gun is definitely quicker but I wanted to keep tools to a minimum as the average person doesn’t have a mortar gun
Thank you very much I cleared up a lot of questions I had just right here in that video so again thank you very much I'm a single woman it's I'm in my early 50s and got a property it's and it's starting to crack so I'm trying to save on money with the hardship and times right now and being as sick as I am myself it's a tough one but your tips and your tricks right there and in this video helped me out a lot thank you again
You’re welcome! I’m pleased the video helped as it makes it all worth. If you haven’t seen my video on mixing mortar that would be a good one for you to watch. All the best with your repointing. Ben
@@Mayalex9927 that’s a great question! Maintenance only needs to be carried out on a wall when it needs it as a wall can go many decades without being touched. The things that reduce this time can be the mix ratio, brick type, pointing type, high traffic areas, salt water, harsh weather conditions and climbing plants like ivy.
Good tips for beginners as an old brickie we mostly ise a piece of cut off hosepipe about 10"" it cost next to nothing and does the same job as a bucket handle and please do the perps first ( the smaller down joints) that will help marry up the bed joints with less gaps
Thanks Dave, I never did like using hosepipe I always preferred the rogger but they do wear out. Technically there’s no right or wrong way to start, perp or bed joint however, it’s just widely accepted that prep first is how it’s done, and I agree. As the video was for demonstration purposes I felt showing the bed joint first would be easier for beginners as they often find it hard to keep muck on the trowel when they turn it to do the perps.
@@BerkleyBuilds no worries mate any help for those who dont know how is allways appreciated dont have to tell anyone about how stupud us tradies are charging now is IMHO a rippoff they should be ashamed of themselves just my 2 bobs.............
That sounds like a great project. You may need to use a lime mortar opposed to a cement based mortar, best to double check before you start. All the best with repointing the chimney
@@BerkleyBuildswould a Type O mortar (1:2:9) with a little extra lime work? I've got an 1900 house, but the gaps are large and think a little cement would help. Not confident that just lime and sand would be strong enough for exterior pointing. (This is more complicated than I thought it would be!)
Good morning, I enjoyed your repot. Wondering, I have found if I take a caulking tube after spent out of the gun, using a metal hanger to insert into the tip to push the plastic cap out of the tube, rinsing the tube, then I used joint compound, filling the tube with joint compound with a putty knife, then placing the plastic cap into the tube I was able to put it into the gun and squirt the joint compound in a more control way. I am going to try it with joint compound, I think I am going to have to cut a bigger hole for the tip. This Old House, tv - a mason was challenged to use a baker's bag with a metal tip. He likes it, it saves time. Of course he was not challenged as to how he mixes the mortar. Care to give it a whirl with a video?
Hi. Mortar guns are good but I find you need the mortar at the right consistency so it flows out the gun and for beginners that’s hard to do. I don’t show a mortar gun in this video as I was demonstrating technique. I’ve made a video on how to mix mortar, you can find it in the pinned comment or follow this link ua-cam.com/video/wfWfidb27xM/v-deo.htmlsi=u4knpeCixegEb4jM
Thanks for the video, i feel a lot more confident tackling my damp porch wall now! Which joint would be better for a wall that has been letting water in? I'm assuming a weather joint?
@@garethjohn3389I’m pleased you found the video helpful. Yeah, weather pointing would be a great choice, specially if the porch sees a lot of weathering on that elevation. All the best with pointing the porch.
Hilarious, my mum my aunt and my gran repointed a house with absolutely no obstructions other than being told the mortar had to go in the gaps between the bricks, it looked ace and still does 35 years later. Easy
Can you advise how you colour match to old mortar. I have an external door that requires bricking up. No one seems to have an answer to this question. Many thanks for the video.
It’s a great question. Colour matching is a little bit of trial and error. Before you go about repointing first start by doing some small trial mixes. I use a large yogurt pot to gauge out the material. Start with a standard 4:1 mix and adjust according. Let the mixes dry for a few days then compare with the existing mortar. Use lime instead of cement if your existing mortar is lime based. Hope that helps, all the best with your project.
@@cezza6474 if you have a good sized bag it certainly is possible. I find that method is a two man job though as you need someone filling the bags and one piping it then jointing up
ive been doing this the last two days on my mums house and still got so much to do down the ally inbetween my house and next door wth the doors going into each garden... and ive used a trowel to pick up the morter and then just used my fingers with a plastic glove bag on my hand and pushing it in with my fingers and then scraping upwards to catch the excess lol its worked fine for me though and it's even with the front of the house. Some of it is a bit lobsided by nothing a good wire brush scrubbing won't fix. This is the true DIY way LOL
You’re a brave man Sam to take on such a large project with limited skills. You may find it easier to fill the joints with the mortar on a hawk (a board with a handle underneath, like plasterers use) and a tuck pointer because you can place the hawk next to the wall and push in the mortar. You may find it quicker too. All the best with your project.
@@TuhafeniKamanya-yc8pd it’s not for me to stop people doing anything, I merely provide advice and let others use their own judgement once presented with the knowledge.
@@nonplus102 if you have adequate access (scaffold) and you’re a capable DIYer then yes it’s certainly possible. Only you can be the judge on whether it’s something you can tackle alone.
Found it very useful thanks and read all the comments. I think rather than others criticising it would be better if they just said "in my opinion..." It's like I say to my kids , it's not what you say it's the way you say it. Hope that doesn't put you off posting great video tutorials. Great video.
Thanks Jonny.. I’ll continue to post videos. There will always be someone who has an opinion because that’s the internet but it doesn’t discourage me because it’s worth it knowing I can encourage people to get stuck in.
Hi, I am going to attempt it myself, first timer! I notice you only did a small part of the wall, was that just to show us? I want to scrape out the old mortar on all the wall over a couple of days, and then repoint the wall again over a couple of days, should I repoint a small area like you and do it in small bits please? Great video btw, given me confidence to have a go!
I’m pleased you felt confident after watching the video. Yes, the small patch I did was purely for demonstration purposes. I would normally rake out the whole area I wanted to repoint and clean down, I would then work in 1m square sections starting from the highest bit and working down. I recommend you work in a smaller area you feel comfortable with. All the best with repointing 👍🏻
Good tutorial... I'm pointing up an old house at the minute but I always get loads of staining, I probably just need practice, will this weather off ? Also im using a 4 to 1... the 1 being 50% cement and 50% lime . Dies this sound OK. Thanks
Hi, if you get mortar on the face of the brick it will stain, try to minimise this by cutting off the excess mortar with your trowel rather than dragging it. If the existing mortar has lime in it then you need to repoint with a lime mortar else the building won’t breath.
You can let the mortar set up a bit and take a sponge and clean water to clean the brick. Squeeze the sponge out and carefully wipe the brick with it. You can make those brick shine like brand new!
How important is it to match the type of mortar used for repointing with the original. I heard that newer mixes of mortar may harm the brick so it is necessary to use a old recipe of mortar? How would I know? My house is 1920 in USA. I have read comments here and guess i need to find a good mason here in Sacramento CA.
@@maclllU2 it very important. In older buildings lime was used to allow solid walled buildings to breath. Newer buildings are often cavity wall (least they are here in the UK) . I would suggest seeking advice from a local professional in your area as they’ll be better placed to give you advice, specially in this instance because my expertise are UK. All the best, Ben
Great video for me as I’m going to do some pointing but I don’t know how to get the mortar the right colour to match the existing mortar. Any ideas on this please?
I’m pleased you found the video helpful. Matching an existing mortar colour can be trial and error. I suggest sourcing local sand and start off mixing up some small test mixes (they only need to be the size of your fist) and wait a few days for them to dry. You can then adjust your mixes according. Try your first test mix as the standard 4:1 (4 building sand : 1 cement unless your house was built with lime mortar). All the best with your repointing. Ben
@@TH-eb5ro yes, repointing brickwork is the same method for exterior brickwork as interior brickwork. To match older mortar I suggest doing a few small batches to test ratios so you can find the right colour. Leave the test mixes for a week to dry properly before comparing them. All the best with it
We have one strip above our extension roof where to mortar as broke away over time an rain is leaking in a little, ive seen at b and q ready to use mortar in like a sealant tube where it squeezes out will it be fine if i remove the old mortar and refil with this any advice greatly appreciated
@@imanishay I would suggest doing a 4:1 mix. The B&Q stuff is rubbish and will cost you a fortune, it’ll be far cheaper to buy a 20kg bag or two of building sand and a bag of cement. All the best
Thank you for the really great video. I need to remove mortar from the joints in my brick porch. Can you tell me what tool I should use....a rotary hammer or a angle grinder? I feel the angle grinder will be harder with the vertical joints and will be easier to cut the bricks and not be able to go as deep? I cannot figure this out. Much appreciated...Michael from Wash DC area
@@michaelwills7522 Hi Michael, I would suggest an angle grinder and take it slow. You don’t need to go very deep, 20mm will be enough. A rotary hammer is designed to break up masonry and concrete, you’ll cause a whole lot of damage if you use that. Take it slow with the angle grinder and you won’t get any over cut. You can get diamond drill bits now which work well for vertical (perp) joints. If you’re still unsure about the vertical joints use a plugging chisel and hammer. It’ll be slower but it’ll get the job done. Hope this helped. All the best with it. Thanks, Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds Ben I am very grateful this helps a ton!!! I will follow your advice exactly...I hope you have a great holiday and just know you helped someone over here in the USA a ton. Kind regards, Michael
@@michaelwills7522 you’re very welcome Michael, I’m pleased I could help. You want a mortar rake dics for the grinder (it’s a diamond coated dics, they’re usually 4-8mm thick) or a mortar rake drill bit (it’ll be a diamond covered shaft that’s 8mm thick). Both dics and drill bit you’ll be able to get on amazon or at harbour freight I would imagine. Have a great Christmas holidays
@@BerkleyBuilds You are the best I am grateful for your help!! I hope you have a great Christmas....its my favorite time of the year and I hope it is for you also! Kind regards, Michael
Just rewatching your video again. Just wanted to know which technique would you say if more weather 'resistant'? ie would the weatherstruck technique help the water run off more or is either technique just as good? To be honest the second one looks easier for a beginner like me but just wondered if it would be long lasting. Thanks
Loads of thanks, this is really useful. Is there any durability or weatherproofing difference between the weatherstruck method + bucket handle method? Or is it just aesthetic (e.g. to blend in with the style of what was already used)?
I’m pleased you found the video useful. The only difference is that weatherstruck is more efficient at getting water away from the wall when compared with bucket handle. Both methods are more than acceptable and it just depends what you’re trying to match along with the look you’re trying to achieve.
Hi Peter, to achieve this you’ll need to do some small trial mixes to get a close colour match. In the past I’ve used a yogurt pot for my ratios as you don’t need a lot. Do your mix and make sure you keep note of the ratio for each mix, let them dry for a few days and compare.
Sorry for the slow reply, I’d missed your comment. When you say holes how big are we talking? If the holes are big enough for water to get into and freeze then point them, especially if they’re deep. If they’re shallow and the mortar is hard just keep an eye on them. If you point the individual holes the wall may look patchy so use trial and error to get the right colour match on the mortar. Mix up a small amount to the same ratio as a larger mix and leave to dry for a few days.
Thanks! If you have a few loose bricks you can take a plugging chisel and chop out the mortar around the brick so you can take it out and either replace it or re-lay the brick. If there are a lot of bricks that are loose which are all in the same area, then get a builder in to assess It.
You make it look very easy. So I am going to have a go myself. My big issue is not mixing the cement properly and how long it stays consistent and workable. I shall try first on my outside brick built loo 1930’s. See if ascetically I can achieve a reasonable and hopefully pleasing result. Thank you for sharing this.
You can master anything with a bit of practice. Can I give you a tip with those areas you struggle in. Consistency and Workability - With workability you can knock up the mortar (adding some water if the mix is going stuff) but you could also mix less and use it before it goes stiff, although it does mean you have to do a bit more mixing! Consistency comes through mixing and isn’t helped that you don’t mix properly. When adding water do it gradually because you can always add more water if needed. Not mixing properly - Not mixing properly won’t help your consistency as mentioned and will make your mix dry quicker. You need to mix for longer. Your looking for the mix to be like a mousse, holds its form yet is still wet. A liquid mortar plasticiser will also help. All the best. Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you Ben so much for sharing this. Greatly and truly appreciated. This is my Easter project and I have your wonderful tips right here to guide me. Brilliant. So lovely to read all these people on your feed that you have helped by sharing such generous tips.
Query, type of mortar and strength for property below. Q1. I think an N-type (1 in 5, or 1 in 6 ratio). What ratio of sharp to building sand should be used on the property below please? for a period engineering brick house thats 90 years old. The mortar appears to be a light cream/ beige in colour with white flect inclusions. As its an early 1930's property I'm assuming the white inclusions are hydrated lime. I understand the colour is from the sand type used.
@@lisagamble6503 I would do some small trial mixes to find the right match, experiment with different sands and colours. I’d suggest starting with 1 in 5 for your sharp sand ratio. Yes, a lot of the colour comes from the sand. I’d suggest you’d want a yellow building sand
Can you safely rake out the old mortar from all of the wall before starting re pointing? or is it better to rake out small areas then repoint in stages to reduce risk of weakening wall than raking out every joint in 1 sweep?
Great question! It’s more than acceptable and safe enough to do all your raking out and clear up in one go. It’s faster and means you only have one clean up. When raking out you only rake out a depth of 20mm, which doesn’t compromise the structural stability of the wall.
Thanks, really useful. Just wondering. When doing the jointing and need to add a bit of mortar. Is that fresh mortar, or mortar that has gone off a bit?
Good question! You can use either but it’s probably easier with slightly stiff mortar. it can be personal preference though or whatever you have to hand at that time. Don’t use mortar that’s so stiff it crumbles as this will fall out.
@@uttaradit2 ever messed up the walls of your house and wished you hadn’t. I like these videos - the mess people make earns me considerably more than if they’d have left it to a professional in the first place 👍
Super helpful video. Thanks so much! Will look at your other vids. One query i would have is if there is an equivalent to the hod trick when repointing brick flooring.
I’m glad you found the video helpful. Tip - When pointing brick floors do a mix as you normally would but add water slowly, you don’t want much. The mortar wants to be stiff with just enough water to hold it together. That way you can push the mortar around making minimal mess and any mess that is made can be wiped away or cleaned with brick cleaner later.
Great question! There is a difference, a weatherstruck joint is almost flat to the wall with a slight angle to the top of the bed joint allowing water to flow off easier, leaving no areas for water to settle and freeze. It’s often a joint seen on older properties. Pro - its more efficient at getting water off the wall, Con - weatherstuck is time consuming. Bucket handle joints are formed with a half round bar creating the bucket handle shape. Often seen on new build houses, Pro - buckle handle joints are quick, Con - they doesn’t look good on period properties.
So I need to repoint some brick. I understand everything but the rooms beneath my front porch need repointed from the inside as well. What should I do in this case where I have weak mortar on both sides? Good video. Thanks!
A great question, however without knowing more details I couldn’t give you a full answer. Is the wall beneath your porch below ground? Is it a basement wall? How old is the property? Do you have this issue elsewhere on the house? If the mortar was bad in the first place meaning it’s always been soft, then you could point both sides so long as the wall was structural stable.
@@BerkleyBuilds Hello and thank you for the reply. Yes the walls beneath my porch are below ground. I have 2 rooms in my basement that take up the same dimensions as the porch above. These rooms are half brick and half concrete block. The brick mortar is so soft I can rub it out with my finger. I can do this from both sides and tonight upon further inspection before I tackle this project I noticed I can pull a couple bricks out. I let them be for now. I can literally see into my basement rooms from outside so I need to figure out my plan of attack. I can send pictures if that helps. Thanks!
@@BerkleyBuilds Addendum....It is a basement wall but like I said it's half brick (up top) and concrete block below. The house was built in the 1930s. The mortar looks very coarse liked its filled with small rocks. Someone has done some repointing I can tell but it was done poorly. The wall is structurally stable. I need to repoint from both sides. Me in the basement first (to practice) and then move outside maybe? Thoughts?
@@maco_5555 thanks for the added more detail. The stones are likely a course sharp sand. So long as the wall doesn’t have any damp you can repoint it. Considering it’s age you’ll need to use lime instead of cement to help the wall breath. I’d suggest a ratio of 2 building sand, 1 sharp sand, 1 lime. Wise move to start inside, all the best with it 👍🏻
@@BerkleyBuilds Thankyou I am worried about the old bricks that are falling apart from winters gone by tho! How can I replace those or would it just be easier to rebuild the wall ! 🤣
@@stephaniehill81 great question! If it’s a handful of bricks that are damaged or have blown then you can chop them out with a hammer and chisel, then mortar in a new brick. Worst case would be to rebuild the wall but seek advice from a local bricklayer who can view it in person.
@@stephaniehill81 I’m East Mids based. My day job as a building inspector does take me south but not that far. Happy to advise you further if you want to send some photos to my email address, You can find it in the About section on my channel page.
@@aDIYCarGuy yeah it’s definitely possible to use a bag or a mortar gun. I find that unless it’s a large area and you have two people it’s not worth the hassle. You have to be precise with the consistency of the mix which beginners can struggle with.
Can you make a video of how to use a pointed trowel in awkward areas and ontop of big holes like boiler flues ontop of expansion foam for beginners but tidy
That’s a good question Fred. I would suggest removing all the old mortar first as that’s the most efficient way to do it. When it comes to repointing, mix up a buckets worth of mortar at a time. Work in an area roughly 1m square or if that’s too large reduce it to half a meter square. Check out my mixing mortar video if you’re unsure on mixing mortar by hand. Good luck with your project. Cheers, Ben
@@woodlandsedge3456 I like them but only for big areas as they have their flaws. I find they’re easier with two people and multiple guns so one person loads it while the other guns it in and joints up. The other flaw is that they’re very sensitive to having the right mix. In my opinion they’re not worth it for small areas because the faff isn’t worth the time saved.
Best videi ive come across on this subject. Can I ask, at the end, if after brushing off you still have mortar stains on the bricks, any suggestions? 👍
Thanks Andrew I appreciate it and a great question! If you still have stains on the face of the bricks when the mortar hasn’t cured then use a rag to buff off the stain. This method works best if the brick has a smoother face. If you have stains when it’s all dried (the next day) then get some brick acid and pour it into a bucket (dilute if needed), use a brush to scrub the stain then rinse the wall down with plenty of water.
Sadly i don’t sorry, I haven’t needed to do any rendering yet. It’s definitely something a novice can do for sure! All the best with patching your render, any questions drop a comment 👍🏻
I have a two story, circa 1900 brick building, soft lime based mortar, and am having it repointed. The mason wants to start at the top and work downward. My intuition is to do the opposite and start at the bottom and work up. Opinion? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Great question! I would do the exact same as your mason. What ever the task you always start top down. The method in that is so all dirt falls downwards and doesn’t get on your newly pointed wall. it’s most likely the way he’s always done it and it’s the most efficient.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thanks. That was his rationale. I figured there was no more risk of getting mortar dropping on parts that were already done below than one would get when laying the bricks in the first place, which, of course, is necessarily bottom to top (LOL). I am concerned with incrementally adding more weight from the new mortar above on the lower bricks that have weakened mortar, often a reason for lower mortar deterioration to begin with. If this is not likely the case, I am good with top to bottom.
@@hewittmcelroy3711 the act of raking out the old mortar joint doesn’t disturb the structural stability and strength of the wall because only 20mm (2cm) is removed. The bed joint of the brick still has 80% remaining. I understand your thoughts of building the wall in the first instance but you don’t wash down when you first built the wall, where as you do when repointing. Top down minimises mess and delivers a better end result.
That’s a good question Matthew! Brushing is something you’ll do at the end or when you’ve finished a section of wall. It can be a personal preference when you brush but once you’ve pointed all the joints you can start brushing, so long as your brush doesn’t leave marks in the mortar.
@@saintetienne755 there are many factors that go into quoting for work that it’s pointless me giving you m2 price because without seeing the job my opinion doesn’t matter. You’d be best to get a local builder to quote because different factors such as access, a builders overheads, how busy someone is etc, all affects the price.
Here’s a link www.screwfix.com/p/ndc-polythenes-polythene-flexi-tub-26ltr/7646k They’re widely available here in the UK, but I’m not sure where to get them if you’re in America.
Great question! It’s certainly possible to match new mortar with existing however, it can be a bit of trial and error. I suggest doing some small trail mixes (you can use an empty tin can for a gauge), note down the ratios used and leave to dry for a few days to a week. Start your trial mix at the standard 4:1 ratio (4 building sand : 1 cement). Building sand comes in different shades from yellow to dark red. Good luck 👍🏻
If you found this video helpful, you'll also want to watch my video on how to mix mortar for bricklaying ua-cam.com/video/pTrISIr8614/v-deo.html
If you need support or advice with your extension or new build, I recommend visiting beprojectwise.co.uk
Thank you, as an old lady nearly 80 I thought it can't be that difficult but didn't want to make any stupid mistakes. Think I can manage this bit by bit.
Fair play! Well done for giving it a go. Take it slow and keep it neat, you’ll be just fine.
Wear disposable gloves and protect your skin lady. Very impressed you'll give it ago. I've been inspired as well.
simply life changing ive pointed the wall, wife and kids. i even lay my sausages side by side and point the gaps with my mash. I'm totally hooked
Come do mine then. You wont want paying much either will ya seeing as you enjoy it so much
I didn't see how you pointed the verticles ?
Oh man. I'm currently on a machine oil bender myself. It all started with some squeaky door hinges, and now I have my second kid on the way!
I might work in Finance, but F me if I'm not a builder!
Excellent video! Straight to the point. Extremely useful tips. No nonsense. Thank you
A great video. Builders don't want to know for small jobs like this, so I've got to do it myself. Have given me the confidence to give it a try
@@Sezicoolcat2 I’m pleased I was able to give you the confidence boost you needed. Take it slow, enjoy the process and you’ll end up with a great result, also with more cash in your pocket!
Check out my ‘How to mix mortar’ video, that’ll be useful for you.
Appreciate the way you showed the movements very clearly. So many of these videos don't slow things down enough because experts forget what it's like to be a complete novice. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
@@emmaline79 you’re welcome. I’m pleased it was helpful for you
Thank you so much, this was carefully explained in a simple way! Very much looking forward to feeling a real achievement by saying “actually we did this ourselves!” A real accomplishment for me with a secretarial background!
Hi Val,
Thanks, I’m glad you found it helpful, that’s the whole purpose of my channel. Take your time and it’ll look great.
It's nice to see a tradesman that can actually do pointing correctly. I live in Northumberland and it is just about impossible to find somebody who can do pointing correctly.
????????
I do not get why though, blade the joints out to 20mm max, fill and point, its one of the most time consuming but easiest jobs about laying and brick work
Videos like this are some of the best content on youtube. Thank you so much for the clear instructions and advice.
Thanks Grahame!
😂
So glad I watched this. It'll make my work so much easier. Thank-you
Thank you so much for sharing and explaining in a very simple way. Great job
A real education. Articulate presentation, too. Thank you very much.
Well Berkeley builds, - ya got a good conversation going there -- lot's of education for us beginning 😉
Thank you for explaining each tool. I am doing a DIY and couldn't figure out how to use all the tools you explained in your video. I appreciate the side by side comparation really helped me think through how to approach the job.
Your welcome, I’m pleased the video can be of use. All the best with your project.
Excellent. I'll be trying this on a front 4x6 foot step made of a horizontal facing of brick where a lot of the mortar has broken up and is loose. Your technique helps me understand how to work with the mortar. Really cool. Can't wait to try it and fix that situation.
Good luck with the step John, glad the video helped.
Cheers, Ben
Ok kids, time for a bit of expert teaching: The soft mortar that he rakes out easily is lime mortar. This is just lime and sand and is what these old houses were originally built with. No cement. The grey stuff in the joints is cement repointing which someone applied a good few years ago but is now failing. He's using a disc on period brickwork which can be very damaging and also creates a lot of dust. Best to connect to a decent vacuum. What's on the trowel is cement mortar. This is neither flexible nor porous and seals joints leading to damp and spalled brickwork. Cement has all the lime burnt out of it and is very unfriendly to the environment. Always use lime on lime built houses. Don't even add cement to your lime mortar otherwise it becomes a cement mortar. Always use like-for-like materials.
I'm using 4 sand .5 cement and .5 lime on an old 1900s house . I tried using just lime and sand but found the mix too soft and light in colour. The current mix I'm using seems to match the existing quite well in terms of hardness but I'm still unsure if its right
@@greyman8695 That's not too bad a mix. Translated when doubled up, i.e. 1:1:8, then you wouldn't be too far off the historic cement mix of 1:2:9. This proved to be successful in building when cement made it's way on-site after WW2. If I were to use cement then personally I'd go with 1:2:9 as that has been found to be without problems as far as cracking is concerned. But it won't be vapour permeable so could lead to moisture retention - otherwise known as damp. If you reduce your volumes, i.e. use smaller containers with which to gauge, then you could easily get a more masonry-friendly mortar than 1:1:8.
Thanks, appreciate that info .
@@michaeljamesdesign I do have quite a few spalled bricks from some previous ivy growth . I wonder if I should maybe experiment with a lime mix again and cut out the cement totally.
@@greyman8695 Cement and lime are mutually exclusive materials. Neither will complement one another. Stick with a good NHL3.5 and you won't go too far wrong. 1:2.5 but don't use building sand as it's not angular enough and it's unwashed which makes it look shite. Combine some nice sharp and another washed aggregate of your choice.
So useful explaining the tools ...very helpful for small old terraced houses. Thanks
@@jenniferdavies8910 I’m glad you found it helpful
Easy and the best way to fill joints. Thanks ! Cheers from Helsinki.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback
Great video. Thanks. One thing that would be helpful is to show any tips you have for applying the mortar into VERTICAL spaces between bricks, when the mortar is more likely to fall off your trowel.
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to make more bricklaying videos with some of those covering trowel control.
Essentially the principle of pointing a horizontal joint (bed joint) and the vertical joint (perp joint) are the same. Tap the trowel when you have some mortar on it to knock out the air as it’ll stick better to the trowel. When you get mortar on the pointing trowel angle the trowel back slightly so the mortar doesn’t slide off. Also limit the time that you hold the trowel vertical.
Well put together video….Im worked well for me doing up my old terraced cottage! Many thanks
Thanks, I’m pleased it was helpful for you. All the best as you do up your terraced cottage. Any questions I’ll be happy to help
Excellent!! just what I've been looking for...step by step detail. Easy to follow (great that you showed the two options), I'll definitely be trying this 👍👍
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback 😀
How did you got on
Legend, this is super helpful, really appreciate you creating this!
Thanks James! Glad you found it helpful
“Knock off all the snots with a brush” 😂 thats me leaving little bits around the joints! great video. This reassured me i can repoint my old front garden wall albeit very slowly like a rookie 😅
Yeah that’s right, snots are the excess mortar left after jointing. When they’re dry they’re easy to get rid of by brushing them off. Slow is better than not having a go. Good luck pointing your garden wall.
First class instruction. All the guidance I need. Thank you very much.
@@terryallen3473 Thanks Terry, I appreciate the feedback and I’m pleased you found it helpful
Brilliant, top tips & glad I watched before attempting my first bit of repointing! 😁👍
Talented guy - and also made it look so easy :)
My last brick repointer shared with me that, when the new morter fully dries, and I raised concern about the color difference between the new morter and the old morter; he explained that he gives the new morter an acid wash to age the new morter so that it matched the 50 year old morter color. It really made difference. I have seen so often where the new morter stands out on other houses and the acid wash was prevented the repointed sections from standing out. I was just curious if you have used the acid wash technique, and if so, it might make a good video for your subscribers as one technique.
Very informative video. Thanks from John, Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
@@pensionat60 pleased you found the video helpful John. I’ve never been to Cornwall on your side of the pond, is it as nice as the Cornwall here in the UK?
Since I have never been to Cornwall in the UK I can’t honestly compare them. We have a population of about 47k. We are situated on the Canada US 🇺🇸 border. We use to frequent the US when money was almost on par but now theirs is $1.41 to ours so it has been sometime since we have been over there. We use to live in Montreal, Quebec but it got too political for our wellbeing so we moved on some 33years ago. It worked out to be a positive. Cheers!
Hi really enjoyed the video the narrative was v good. I live in a single brick thick property and wondered if you had any advice for brick repairs in such a property
Thanks Ian!
You don’t get many single brick properties. Yes, single skin but these are often 9 inch thick. In terms of repairs It all depends on the extent of repair needed. Chopping out a few bricks is more than fine if they’ve have blown faces. Equally repointing the wall if the mortar is crumbling is also possible. What state is your wall in?
@@BerkleyBuilds Some of the bricks facing has cracked / fallen away and I don't want to remove the single bricks as this may mean I have to replaster. How about a video on repairing bricks where the facing is shot?
@@ianw2955 sadly that type of video isn’t one I’m in a position to film currently as I don’t have a wall with blown bricks that I could film. However, if you don’t want to chop out a brick completely because of the fear of damaging plaster inside, then I would suggest an alternative solutions. Provided it’s only a few bricks you could create some brick slips to replace the face of the brick only, while keeping the back of the brick in one piece.
That was great! Very useful tips and right to the point. We’ll done!
great tips with the hand movement here ,me mortar gun with sloppy mix all day long, fill joints leave proud wait till touch dry then rub up with tool brush off much quicker .
A sloppy mix for someone experienced may be quicker but for someone who’s a DIYer, it would be messy. My method although slower, gets the best results. A mortar gun is definitely quicker but I wanted to keep tools to a minimum as the average person doesn’t have a mortar gun
Thank you for a clear, concise and easil-understandable video. I love the word "snots" 😄
Lol he said snot!
Great video. You made it easy to understand how to do it.
Thanks good clear instructions. Very helpful.
Thank you very much I cleared up a lot of questions I had just right here in that video so again thank you very much I'm a single woman it's I'm in my early 50s and got a property it's and it's starting to crack so I'm trying to save on money with the hardship and times right now and being as sick as I am myself it's a tough one but your tips and your tricks right there and in this video helped me out a lot thank you again
You’re welcome! I’m pleased the video helped as it makes it all worth. If you haven’t seen my video on mixing mortar that would be a good one for you to watch. All the best with your repointing.
Ben
Love it. How often should you do any maintenance or repair work on brick wall? Thanks
@@Mayalex9927 that’s a great question! Maintenance only needs to be carried out on a wall when it needs it as a wall can go many decades without being touched. The things that reduce this time can be the mix ratio, brick type, pointing type, high traffic areas, salt water, harsh weather conditions and climbing plants like ivy.
A first class Video, thank you for the step by step guide. You are clearly a craftsman! I feel ready to have a go myself, now.
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the feedback
Good tips for beginners as an old brickie we mostly ise a piece of cut off hosepipe about 10"" it cost next to nothing and does the same job as a bucket handle and please do the perps first ( the smaller down joints) that will help marry up the bed joints with less gaps
Thanks Dave, I never did like using hosepipe I always preferred the rogger but they do wear out. Technically there’s no right or wrong way to start, perp or bed joint however, it’s just widely accepted that prep first is how it’s done, and I agree. As the video was for demonstration purposes I felt showing the bed joint first would be easier for beginners as they often find it hard to keep muck on the trowel when they turn it to do the perps.
@@BerkleyBuilds no worries mate any help for those who dont know how is allways appreciated dont have to tell anyone about how stupud us tradies are charging now is IMHO a rippoff they should be ashamed of themselves just my 2 bobs.............
good video for me as I am working on the mortar of a 100 year old ranch house chimney --thanks
That sounds like a great project. You may need to use a lime mortar opposed to a cement based mortar, best to double check before you start. All the best with repointing the chimney
@@BerkleyBuildswould a Type O mortar (1:2:9) with a little extra lime work? I've got an 1900 house, but the gaps are large and think a little cement would help. Not confident that just lime and sand would be strong enough for exterior pointing. (This is more complicated than I thought it would be!)
@ lime allow a wall to breath, cement doesn’t. You shouldn’t mix lime and cement.
Good morning, I enjoyed your repot. Wondering, I have found if I take a caulking tube after spent out of the gun, using a metal hanger to insert into the tip to push the plastic cap out of the tube, rinsing the tube, then I used joint compound, filling the tube with joint compound with a putty knife, then placing the plastic cap into the tube I was able to put it into the gun and squirt the joint compound in a more control way. I am going to try it with joint compound, I think I am going to have to cut a bigger hole for the tip. This Old House, tv - a mason was challenged to use a baker's bag with a metal tip. He likes it, it saves time. Of course he was not challenged as to how he mixes the mortar. Care to give it a whirl with a video?
Hi. Mortar guns are good but I find you need the mortar at the right consistency so it flows out the gun and for beginners that’s hard to do. I don’t show a mortar gun in this video as I was demonstrating technique.
I’ve made a video on how to mix mortar, you can find it in the pinned comment or follow this link ua-cam.com/video/wfWfidb27xM/v-deo.htmlsi=u4knpeCixegEb4jM
Thanks for the video, i feel a lot more confident tackling my damp porch wall now! Which joint would be better for a wall that has been letting water in? I'm assuming a weather joint?
@@garethjohn3389I’m pleased you found the video helpful. Yeah, weather pointing would be a great choice, specially if the porch sees a lot of weathering on that elevation. All the best with pointing the porch.
Thank you for sharing and teaching
You’re welcome! If there’s a video you’d like me to cover let me know and I’ll do my best to film it.
Hilarious, my mum my aunt and my gran repointed a house with absolutely no obstructions other than being told the mortar had to go in the gaps between the bricks, it looked ace and still does 35 years later. Easy
Thanks great tutorial. Very clear, well done 😊😊😊
@@deborahf3738 Thanks Deborah 😄
Can you advise how you colour match to old mortar. I have an external door that requires bricking up. No one seems to have an answer to this question. Many thanks for the video.
It’s a great question. Colour matching is a little bit of trial and error. Before you go about repointing first start by doing some small trial mixes. I use a large yogurt pot to gauge out the material. Start with a standard 4:1 mix and adjust according. Let the mixes dry for a few days then compare with the existing mortar. Use lime instead of cement if your existing mortar is lime based. Hope that helps, all the best with your project.
As a (previous) pastry chef, I wonder if you could fill it using a pastry bag (piping bag) 🤔
@@cezza6474 if you have a good sized bag it certainly is possible. I find that method is a two man job though as you need someone filling the bags and one piping it then jointing up
Thank you for sharing your skill for our (well, my) benefit.
You’re welcome, I’m pleased you found it useful.
ive been doing this the last two days on my mums house and still got so much to do down the ally inbetween my house and next door wth the doors going into each garden... and ive used a trowel to pick up the morter and then just used my fingers with a plastic glove bag on my hand and pushing it in with my fingers and then scraping upwards to catch the excess lol its worked fine for me though and it's even with the front of the house. Some of it is a bit lobsided by nothing a good wire brush scrubbing won't fix.
This is the true DIY way LOL
You’re a brave man Sam to take on such a large project with limited skills. You may find it easier to fill the joints with the mortar on a hawk (a board with a handle underneath, like plasterers use) and a tuck pointer because you can place the hawk next to the wall and push in the mortar. You may find it quicker too. All the best with your project.
Why do you allow people to build like that
@@TuhafeniKamanya-yc8pd it’s not for me to stop people doing anything, I merely provide advice and let others use their own judgement once presented with the knowledge.
Great video! Do yo think you should be able to DIY repointing a chimney and re rendering it?
@@nonplus102 if you have adequate access (scaffold) and you’re a capable DIYer then yes it’s certainly possible. Only you can be the judge on whether it’s something you can tackle alone.
Great vid man!
Found it very useful thanks and read all the comments. I think rather than others criticising it would be better if they just said "in my opinion..." It's like I say to my kids , it's not what you say it's the way you say it. Hope that doesn't put you off posting great video tutorials. Great video.
Thanks Jonny.. I’ll continue to post videos. There will always be someone who has an opinion because that’s the internet but it doesn’t discourage me because it’s worth it knowing I can encourage people to get stuck in.
Hi, I am going to attempt it myself, first timer! I notice you only did a small part of the wall, was that just to show us? I want to scrape out the old mortar on all the wall over a couple of days, and then repoint the wall again over a couple of days, should I repoint a small area like you and do it in small bits please? Great video btw, given me confidence to have a go!
I’m pleased you felt confident after watching the video.
Yes, the small patch I did was purely for demonstration purposes. I would normally rake out the whole area I wanted to repoint and clean down, I would then work in 1m square sections starting from the highest bit and working down. I recommend you work in a smaller area you feel comfortable with.
All the best with repointing 👍🏻
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you, I will be following your channel from now on. x
We would love to see the finished, dried effect!
@@zannahmerrill3620 unfortunately I didn’t record that sorry, I felt like people know what dried mortar looks like. Next time I’ll include it
Good tutorial... I'm pointing up an old house at the minute but I always get loads of staining, I probably just need practice, will this weather off ? Also im using a 4 to 1... the 1 being 50% cement and 50% lime . Dies this sound OK. Thanks
Hi, if you get mortar on the face of the brick it will stain, try to minimise this by cutting off the excess mortar with your trowel rather than dragging it.
If the existing mortar has lime in it then you need to repoint with a lime mortar else the building won’t breath.
You can let the mortar set up a bit and take a sponge and clean water to clean the brick. Squeeze the sponge out and carefully wipe the brick with it. You can make those brick shine like brand new!
How can you tell what was used?
Nicely explained, thanks.
How important is it to match the type of mortar used for repointing with the original. I heard that newer mixes of mortar may harm the brick so it is necessary to use a old recipe of mortar? How would I know?
My house is 1920 in USA. I have read comments here and guess i need to find a good mason here in Sacramento CA.
@@maclllU2 it very important. In older buildings lime was used to allow solid walled buildings to breath. Newer buildings are often cavity wall (least they are here in the UK) .
I would suggest seeking advice from a local professional in your area as they’ll be better placed to give you advice, specially in this instance because my expertise are UK. All the best, Ben
Great video for me as I’m going to do some pointing but I don’t know how to get the mortar the right colour to match the existing mortar. Any ideas on this please?
I’m pleased you found the video helpful.
Matching an existing mortar colour can be trial and error. I suggest sourcing local sand and start off mixing up some small test mixes (they only need to be the size of your fist) and wait a few days for them to dry. You can then adjust your mixes according. Try your first test mix as the standard 4:1 (4 building sand : 1 cement unless your house was built with lime mortar).
All the best with your repointing.
Ben
Any difference for indoor brick walls? How do you match older mortar?
@@TH-eb5ro yes, repointing brickwork is the same method for exterior brickwork as interior brickwork. To match older mortar I suggest doing a few small batches to test ratios so you can find the right colour. Leave the test mixes for a week to dry properly before comparing them. All the best with it
We have one strip above our extension roof where to mortar as broke away over time an rain is leaking in a little, ive seen at b and q ready to use mortar in like a sealant tube where it squeezes out will it be fine if i remove the old mortar and refil with this any advice greatly appreciated
@@imanishay I would suggest doing a 4:1 mix. The B&Q stuff is rubbish and will cost you a fortune, it’ll be far cheaper to buy a 20kg bag or two of building sand and a bag of cement. All the best
@BerkleyBuilds thank you for the reply
Beautiful work! Well done 👍
Thank you for the really great video. I need to remove mortar from the joints in my brick porch. Can you tell me what tool I should use....a rotary hammer or a angle grinder? I feel the angle grinder will be harder with the vertical joints and will be easier to cut the bricks and not be able to go as deep? I cannot figure this out. Much appreciated...Michael from Wash DC area
@@michaelwills7522 Hi Michael, I would suggest an angle grinder and take it slow. You don’t need to go very deep, 20mm will be enough. A rotary hammer is designed to break up masonry and concrete, you’ll cause a whole lot of damage if you use that.
Take it slow with the angle grinder and you won’t get any over cut. You can get diamond drill bits now which work well for vertical (perp) joints. If you’re still unsure about the vertical joints use a plugging chisel and hammer. It’ll be slower but it’ll get the job done.
Hope this helped. All the best with it.
Thanks, Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds Ben I am very grateful this helps a ton!!! I will follow your advice exactly...I hope you have a great holiday and just know you helped someone over here in the USA a ton. Kind regards,
Michael
@@BerkleyBuilds Ben would you mind giving me advice on the best diamond blade I should use on the angle grinder?
@@michaelwills7522 you’re very welcome Michael, I’m pleased I could help.
You want a mortar rake dics for the grinder (it’s a diamond coated dics, they’re usually 4-8mm thick) or a mortar rake drill bit (it’ll be a diamond covered shaft that’s 8mm thick). Both dics and drill bit you’ll be able to get on amazon or at harbour freight I would imagine.
Have a great Christmas holidays
@@BerkleyBuilds You are the best I am grateful for your help!! I hope you have a great Christmas....its my favorite time of the year and I hope it is for you also! Kind regards, Michael
Just rewatching your video again. Just wanted to know which technique would you say if more weather 'resistant'? ie would the weatherstruck technique help the water run off more or is either technique just as good? To be honest the second one looks easier for a beginner like me but just wondered if it would be long lasting. Thanks
Hi Sharon, thanks for watching! Weatherstruck would offer more weather resistance as water runs off it more easily.
Ben
Loads of thanks, this is really useful. Is there any durability or weatherproofing difference between the weatherstruck method + bucket handle method? Or is it just aesthetic (e.g. to blend in with the style of what was already used)?
I’m pleased you found the video useful. The only difference is that weatherstruck is more efficient at getting water away from the wall when compared with bucket handle. Both methods are more than acceptable and it just depends what you’re trying to match along with the look you’re trying to achieve.
Thanks buddy! This will help me with my mums kitchen 😊
You’re welcome 😀 All the best with your project!
Superb instructions!
Snotty .. you good mate precise short clip.
Hi, can you please advise how can I make sure that the new mortar will be in similar color when it dried with old mortar?
Hi Peter, to achieve this you’ll need to do some small trial mixes to get a close colour match. In the past I’ve used a yogurt pot for my ratios as you don’t need a lot. Do your mix and make sure you keep note of the ratio for each mix, let them dry for a few days and compare.
Thanks for this video. I have some spots where there are holes in the pointing. Any advice on how to fill those? I’m a complete beginner. Thanks!
Sorry for the slow reply, I’d missed your comment.
When you say holes how big are we talking?
If the holes are big enough for water to get into and freeze then point them, especially if they’re deep. If they’re shallow and the mortar is hard just keep an eye on them.
If you point the individual holes the wall may look patchy so use trial and error to get the right colour match on the mortar. Mix up a small amount to the same ratio as a larger mix and leave to dry for a few days.
Thanks for a good instruction video
You make it look so very easy. Thank you.
I’ve had a lot of practice! Keep trying it’ll become easier.
Thanks for the video, how would you recommend repairing it the bricks are loose.
Thanks!
If you have a few loose bricks you can take a plugging chisel and chop out the mortar around the brick so you can take it out and either replace it or re-lay the brick. If there are a lot of bricks that are loose which are all in the same area, then get a builder in to assess It.
@@BerkleyBuilds many thanks for the swift response I will see if this is doable, if not admit failure and seek expert advice 😁
@@andymjflemming you’re welcome. Have another look at it, if you have any questions let me know, I can talk you through it.
Good video, I'll point my patio slabs and about six foot of three course brickwork following this.👍
You make it look very easy. So I am going to have a go myself. My big issue is not mixing the cement properly and how long it stays consistent and workable. I shall try first on my outside brick built loo 1930’s. See if ascetically I can achieve a reasonable and hopefully pleasing result. Thank you for sharing this.
You can master anything with a bit of practice. Can I give you a tip with those areas you struggle in.
Consistency and Workability - With workability you can knock up the mortar (adding some water if the mix is going stuff) but you could also mix less and use it before it goes stiff, although it does mean you have to do a bit more mixing! Consistency comes through mixing and isn’t helped that you don’t mix properly. When adding water do it gradually because you can always add more water if needed.
Not mixing properly - Not mixing properly won’t help your consistency as mentioned and will make your mix dry quicker. You need to mix for longer. Your looking for the mix to be like a mousse, holds its form yet is still wet. A liquid mortar plasticiser will also help.
All the best. Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you Ben so much for sharing this. Greatly and truly appreciated. This is my Easter project and I have your wonderful tips right here to guide me. Brilliant. So lovely to read all these people on your feed that you have helped by sharing such generous tips.
Query, type of mortar and strength for property below.
Q1. I think an N-type (1 in 5, or 1 in 6 ratio). What ratio of sharp to building sand should be used on the property below please?
for a period engineering brick house thats 90 years old. The mortar appears to be a light cream/ beige in colour with white flect inclusions. As its an early 1930's property I'm assuming the white inclusions are hydrated lime. I understand the colour is from the sand type used.
@@lisagamble6503 I would do some small trial mixes to find the right match, experiment with different sands and colours. I’d suggest starting with 1 in 5 for your sharp sand ratio.
Yes, a lot of the colour comes from the sand. I’d suggest you’d want a yellow building sand
Can you safely rake out the old mortar from all of the wall before starting re pointing? or is it better to rake out small areas then repoint in stages to reduce risk of weakening wall than raking out every joint in 1 sweep?
Great question! It’s more than acceptable and safe enough to do all your raking out and clear up in one go. It’s faster and means you only have one clean up.
When raking out you only rake out a depth of 20mm, which doesn’t compromise the structural stability of the wall.
Thanks, really useful. Just wondering. When doing the jointing and need to add a bit of mortar. Is that fresh mortar, or mortar that has gone off a bit?
Good question! You can use either but it’s probably easier with slightly stiff mortar. it can be personal preference though or whatever you have to hand at that time. Don’t use mortar that’s so stiff it crumbles as this will fall out.
Helpful video. Cheers!
I love the amount of remedial work these types of videos generate, after people have had a go and made a complete mess 👍
No remedial work needed, this panel of brickwork was used for demonstration prior to it coming down to make way for a steel beam.
ever ridden a bike and never fallen off.....
@@uttaradit2 ever messed up the walls of your house and wished you hadn’t. I like these videos - the mess people make earns me considerably more than if they’d have left it to a professional in the first place 👍
@@pedropig always so snarky? Seriously.....I mean, go on ya, but no need to act like that.
Super helpful video. Thanks so much! Will look at your other vids. One query i would have is if there is an equivalent to the hod trick when repointing brick flooring.
I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Tip - When pointing brick floors do a mix as you normally would but add water slowly, you don’t want much. The mortar wants to be stiff with just enough water to hold it together. That way you can push the mortar around making minimal mess and any mess that is made can be wiped away or cleaned with brick cleaner later.
You are totally amazing!!!!!Thank you!!
Perfect thanks for this I have a massive area to do on the side of my house so will be giving it a go 💪
Thanks for checking out my video. I wish you the best with your project!
Quick tip - If you’re new to repointing start in an area that’s seen the least that way it won’t be as obvious if you mess up to start with.
@@BerkleyBuilds yeahp will do. The entire side of the house which is SE facing and protect by next door. Will use Lime 3.5 mix 👍
Thanks for this mate!
@@thchruan no worries, pleased you found it helpful 👍🏻
So whats the difference between weatherstruck and bucket handle finish? Is it just personal preference or have they pro's and cons?
Great question! There is a difference, a weatherstruck joint is almost flat to the wall with a slight angle to the top of the bed joint allowing water to flow off easier, leaving no areas for water to settle and freeze. It’s often a joint seen on older properties. Pro - its more efficient at getting water off the wall, Con - weatherstuck is time consuming. Bucket handle joints are formed with a half round bar creating the bucket handle shape. Often seen on new build houses, Pro - buckle handle joints are quick, Con - they doesn’t look good on period properties.
So I need to repoint some brick. I understand everything but the rooms beneath my front porch need repointed from the inside as well. What should I do in this case where I have weak mortar on both sides? Good video. Thanks!
A great question, however without knowing more details I couldn’t give you a full answer. Is the wall beneath your porch below ground? Is it a basement wall? How old is the property? Do you have this issue elsewhere on the house?
If the mortar was bad in the first place meaning it’s always been soft, then you could point both sides so long as the wall was structural stable.
@@BerkleyBuilds Hello and thank you for the reply. Yes the walls beneath my porch are below ground. I have 2 rooms in my basement that take up the same dimensions as the porch above. These rooms are half brick and half concrete block. The brick mortar is so soft I can rub it out with my finger. I can do this from both sides and tonight upon further inspection before I tackle this project I noticed I can pull a couple bricks out. I let them be for now. I can literally see into my basement rooms from outside so I need to figure out my plan of attack. I can send pictures if that helps. Thanks!
@@BerkleyBuilds Addendum....It is a basement wall but like I said it's half brick (up top) and concrete block below. The house was built in the 1930s. The mortar looks very coarse liked its filled with small rocks. Someone has done some repointing I can tell but it was done poorly. The wall is structurally stable. I need to repoint from both sides. Me in the basement first (to practice) and then move outside maybe? Thoughts?
@@maco_5555 thanks for the added more detail.
The stones are likely a course sharp sand. So long as the wall doesn’t have any damp you can repoint it. Considering it’s age you’ll need to use lime instead of cement to help the wall breath. I’d suggest a ratio of 2 building sand, 1 sharp sand, 1 lime. Wise move to start inside, all the best with it 👍🏻
Brilliant 🧱Video 🛠️
Fantastic video so helpful I reall feel confident that I could repoint my wall now
Hi Stephanie. Thanks for watching, I’m glad you found it helpful. Good luck with any pointing project you tackle.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thankyou I am worried about the old bricks that are falling apart from winters gone by tho! How can I replace those or would it just be easier to rebuild the wall ! 🤣
@@stephaniehill81 great question! If it’s a handful of bricks that are damaged or have blown then you can chop them out with a hammer and chisel, then mortar in a new brick. Worst case would be to rebuild the wall but seek advice from a local bricklayer who can view it in person.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thankyou so much I really appreciate all your advice (ps are you Herts based by any chance 🤣)
@@stephaniehill81 I’m East Mids based. My day job as a building inspector does take me south but not that far. Happy to advise you further if you want to send some photos to my email address, You can find it in the About section on my channel page.
what about piping the mortar in like a baker
@@aDIYCarGuy yeah it’s definitely possible to use a bag or a mortar gun. I find that unless it’s a large area and you have two people it’s not worth the hassle. You have to be precise with the consistency of the mix which beginners can struggle with.
Can you make a video of how to use a pointed trowel in awkward areas and ontop of big holes like boiler flues ontop of expansion foam for beginners but tidy
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll see what I can do and if I can find some big holes to fill.
How much of a wall should I do at the same time?. I have a whole garden wall to do, should I take out all of it or do a small patch at a time
That’s a good question Fred. I would suggest removing all the old mortar first as that’s the most efficient way to do it. When it comes to repointing, mix up a buckets worth of mortar at a time. Work in an area roughly 1m square or if that’s too large reduce it to half a meter square. Check out my mixing mortar video if you’re unsure on mixing mortar by hand. Good luck with your project.
Cheers, Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds thank you very much for your reply. Much appreciated.
What’s your thoughts on a mortar gun
@@woodlandsedge3456 I like them but only for big areas as they have their flaws. I find they’re easier with two people and multiple guns so one person loads it while the other guns it in and joints up. The other flaw is that they’re very sensitive to having the right mix. In my opinion they’re not worth it for small areas because the faff isn’t worth the time saved.
Best videi ive come across on this subject. Can I ask, at the end, if after brushing off you still have mortar stains on the bricks, any suggestions? 👍
Thanks Andrew I appreciate it and a great question!
If you still have stains on the face of the bricks when the mortar hasn’t cured then use a rag to buff off the stain. This method works best if the brick has a smoother face.
If you have stains when it’s all dried (the next day) then get some brick acid and pour it into a bucket (dilute if needed), use a brush to scrub the stain then rinse the wall down with plenty of water.
@@BerkleyBuilds Your a star Mr Berkley. I can see a follow coming on. Thank you 👍
Nice video and thanks for sharing! 👏 😊❤
Do you have a video for patching render? Is that something an absolute novice can do? Thanks
Sadly i don’t sorry, I haven’t needed to do any rendering yet. It’s definitely something a novice can do for sure!
All the best with patching your render, any questions drop a comment 👍🏻
I have a two story, circa 1900 brick building, soft lime based mortar, and am having it repointed. The mason wants to start at the top and work downward. My intuition is to do the opposite and start at the bottom and work up. Opinion? Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
Great question! I would do the exact same as your mason. What ever the task you always start top down. The method in that is so all dirt falls downwards and doesn’t get on your newly pointed wall. it’s most likely the way he’s always done it and it’s the most efficient.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thanks. That was his rationale. I figured there was no more risk of getting mortar dropping on parts that were already done below than one would get when laying the bricks in the first place, which, of course, is necessarily bottom to top (LOL). I am concerned with incrementally adding more weight from the new mortar above on the lower bricks that have weakened mortar, often a reason for lower mortar deterioration to begin with. If this is not likely the case, I am good with top to bottom.
@@BerkleyBuilds And, thank you so much for your prompt reply. Excellent!
@@hewittmcelroy3711 the act of raking out the old mortar joint doesn’t disturb the structural stability and strength of the wall because only 20mm (2cm) is removed. The bed joint of the brick still has 80% remaining.
I understand your thoughts of building the wall in the first instance but you don’t wash down when you first built the wall, where as you do when repointing. Top down minimises mess and delivers a better end result.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you for your excellent help!
5:28 How long do you wait to brush?
That’s a good question Matthew!
Brushing is something you’ll do at the end or when you’ve finished a section of wall. It can be a personal preference when you brush but once you’ve pointed all the joints you can start brushing, so long as your brush doesn’t leave marks in the mortar.
I used blue circle cement and mixed 4/1 sand cement mix as instructions on bag.
Mortar is powdery to an extent if you rub it. Maybe leave it alone or if it’s bad then redo it
Nice work!
What sort of price for repointing half a gable wall (above a garage) of a 3 bed semi
@@saintetienne755 there are many factors that go into quoting for work that it’s pointless me giving you m2 price because without seeing the job my opinion doesn’t matter. You’d be best to get a local builder to quote because different factors such as access, a builders overheads, how busy someone is etc, all affects the price.
@@BerkleyBuilds thank you
Very good chap!
nice flexible yelllow bucket. you have a link for it?
Here’s a link
www.screwfix.com/p/ndc-polythenes-polythene-flexi-tub-26ltr/7646k
They’re widely available here in the UK, but I’m not sure where to get them if you’re in America.
Is there any tips on blending it in to old brickwork
Great question!
It’s certainly possible to match new mortar with existing however, it can be a bit of trial and error. I suggest doing some small trail mixes (you can use an empty tin can for a gauge), note down the ratios used and leave to dry for a few days to a week. Start your trial mix at the standard 4:1 ratio (4 building sand : 1 cement). Building sand comes in different shades from yellow to dark red. Good luck 👍🏻
@@BerkleyBuilds thanks for that I didn't really want to point up the full front of the house for approximately a square meter
@@ady1234uk take your time over getting the mix right. The hard work is in the prep. Good luck!