I do HVAC for a living, we get snow where I live, and I just use my fireplace. No gas, no electricity, and splitting wood is a great winter time drinking activity. I never have to worry about chewed up hoses, burnt motors, blown fuses, broken ignitors or flame sensors, reversing valves.. it’s just chunks of wood in a brick fireplace.
This was my great idea after moving into a new home... until I discovered that, due to not being used, there are wasps living in the fireplace, alive even during the cold. Lesson is, make sure to use your fireplace regularly!
I just woke up after that winter storm in south Alabama and the heat went out sometime in the night. The whole town is shut down. People dont really get this kinda snow down here. I know its gonna kill a couple folks. House fires have got like 5 or 6 people already. Im gonna try to be a help to my neighbors. Fix this heater for these women. These tips help me. I had a new install job doing AC work as a kid.
Thanks for the info. My Heat Pump unit was installed brand new a year ago but when it gets below 30 degrees it has trouble heating to the set temp. Right now it is 10 degrees out and I have it set at 70 degrees in my home but it will only heat to about 66 degrees. Is this common?
@@jessedoschadis3868 My Neighbor has a Mitsubishi system and when it's 25 outside, his house is 61 degrees inside. I told him to use a Force Air Gas Furnace as the Air Handler and for emergency Heat. He said no! He said he is saving the Planet. So now after spending over $20k for the current system, he said maybe you were right.
@@jessedoschadis3868 Yes. Everyone seems to be junking Natural Gas and going electric. HVAC Sales Companies are not telling Home Owners the truth. We forced the Sales Team to include a Gas Furnace and a Heat Pump. No strip heat. If we need Emergency Heat, the Gas Furnace comes on. We are switching to Natural Gas at 40 degrees or colder. Never looked back.
Can I run my heat pump on Emergency heal if over 32 degrees. My outdoor unit is all iced up inside for 2 weeks now. It is not melting. Temps this week are in the 40s. Should it melt quickly?
My system maintains the temperature in the winter time but will not shut off the system. I set it at 74 and it is 30 degrees outside and it will reach 74 and not turn off. Why won't it turn off. It is the same for whatever temperature it is set for.
yes..my heat pump just not blow hot this week and very cold inside the house. now find out the wire connector both side on the bottom that panel rusted and broken.becaue.of my poor maintenance.
Should you allow your heat pump (outdoor unit) to run during single digit temperatures even if it may run for days? Some say no but most say it's better for the parts (outside unti) to be moving rather than sitting still in extreme cold temps.
I'm facing the same situation and would welcome someone answering your question. It's not just single digit operation....it can be any low-temp ( below freezing 32degF) operation depending upon component sizing. We are in SC and are experiencing unusual 15-20 degF weather and my unit seems to be running all the time during this period. Everything is functioning well....and my "gut" says any moving parts that continue to move is better than sitting idle during this cold spell....especially if after it's idle you then call for heat and MAKE parts move after it sat a while...my gut says this is worse. Anyone?.......
I asked my HVAC service guy this exact question a few days ago. I (me) am no expert but he summarized: If your system (I have a dual unit upstairs/downstairs) is functioning properly and well maintained, there is no need to keep it running in extreme temperatures if not needed. Below freezing is mainly a concern if ice builds up on your units and they start. The other issue is it will take your house (almost 3800sf) a very long time to heat if not in regular operation to maintain temperature. He also mentioned something called auxiliary heating pulls a lot of amps to quickly heat so much better to anticipate/maintain than catch up. He also mentioned that yes the units will likely run constantly in any extreme temps, high or low. Hope this info helps...
If a normal split unit from a US brand, no, you shouldn't run it if it isn't delivering heat, and most can't below 20 or 15F. At that point you are just asking for issues since the compressor cannot generate a low enough pressure to keep flows up for heating.
Depends on the unit, we just made a few videos about this, and low ambient units are designed for this. Just check the specs on your unit. We set our systems to shut off at 75% capacity normally or whenever the load would cause them to struggle. In Colorado the low ambient heat pumps we put in are designed to run to 0F or below, but a basic single stage heat pump might not keep up so check the specs
You typically want above a 70° ambient temperature to properly check refrigerant level. In a low outdoor ambient situation I would recommend a charging jacket for system with txv. Heat pump system usually has a manufacture guide on the unit.
Carrier usually comes with a charging chart that has pressure readings depending on the ambient conditions. Some rules of thumbs you can use are roughly 90-100F on discharge gas temp. above ambient. 5-15F above inside ambient on the liquid line and 5-15F below outdoor ambient for suction temp.
Thanks for your videos! Always illuminating. My recent issue with a Carrier Infinity heat pump, now at 14 years of faithful service, came with a "tuneup" visit from a local service provider. Everything worked fine, but like you mentioned, I've needed to watch it to see that, in the winter, it seemed to operate a little less efficiently than its identical companion that was covering the 2nd floor as an independent zone. It seemed to go into defrost mode a little sooner, and the auxiliary heat would come on at a slightly higher temperature than the 2nd floor unit. Really hard for me to say how frequently, because I haven't stared at it all the time, just occasional glances during the colder temps (40 degrees Fahrenheit or colder). I told the service guy my suspicions, and he quickly homed in on a constricted metering piston as the likely culprit, based entirely on observing that the line area around the piston was getting frost on it before the coils. OK, seemed possible, but add to that his estimation that the repair would entail also replacing all 14+ pounds of R410A refrigerant, at $195 per pound, and I was looking at a $3000 repair bill. PLUS the possibility that my compressor was on its way to failing as well because of this faulty valve stressing it over time, so please consider just getting a NEW HEAT PUMP! Since the heat pump seems to be working, why would I replace it? And why would I put fresh refrigerant in it, at such a high expense? Please advise if you can on what I might consider doing. I thought about just waiting til the spring and having it tested both ways more rigorously then to try getting the compressor health scrutinized, and in the meantime just running it in emergency heat mode during the cold nights - also very expensive, I am aware.
last year it worked fine, this year in heat mode the condenser froze up and while in em heat only the heat strip works not the condenser. where do you recommend I start troubleshooting. I am capable and have a multimeter and have worked on ac units but never heat pumps
I have a new air to air heat pump less than a year old and it never gets to thermostat temp usually 1 or two degrees beliw set temp. In the winter when temps are below 40 it runs constantly and in summer when temps above 80 it runs continuously. Clean filter and coils. Do i have a defective unit or other problems? Or is this just the way heat pumps work?
We had a complete new 3 ton system installed and air exchanger it was in oct 2024 it was still hot weather the system worked great , than winter came i live in northeast Florida so the winter's are not bad , this year right now , 43 degrees and 29 at night . So I put the heat on at 84 , the auxiliary heat comes on and blows cool air than I lower the temperature to 72 degrees the regular heat and it blows hot air please tell me what is wrong for my new $14,000 system sir
My lennox elite system is short cycling. Clean filter, condensor find were cleaned and all gunk removed from the base. Is there any kind of valve or sensor that may be causing it to kick on off multiple times within 20 min? The unit cools just fine. Running it in emergency heat is killing my electric bill.
@User-qazws unfortunately at the moment i dont know, i need a set of gauges. Going to borrow a set soon from my buddy. I switched to commercial duct where i no longer need them. Had to get out my old text book and did some reading and seems the only way to truly diagnose the issue is with a pressure reading. Could be a metering device, drier bulb, txb valve. Im also going to clean my a-coil thoroughly with some simple green solution.
My system is 3 years old & the heat pump was frozen. I’m in Va. Had a tech come out to take it all apart just to get the ice off. And did nothing else! It’s on a warranty. Now temperatures will be in single digits in the morning for 3 days. When do you use emergency heat?
my heat pump keeps pumping heat after it hits the set temperature and just keeps pumping heat and wont shut off .i have to trip the breaker.the service company i called cant figure it out after 3 visits any idea thank you.
Brand new Rudd heat pump system. Have had electrician out for a total of 7 hours, plumber has tried everything, they can’t get our new system to work. The unit, has not worked from day one. So the plumber keeps just trying thing, new sensors, control panel, outside temp sensor, control panel. He was out angain yesterday, and replaced the outdoor temp sensor. We live in Mn, temp just got up to 31 so heat pump unit just kicked in, for 15 sec., and has been doing that for the last hour. Kick in for 30 sec., shut off 5 min. Later kick in again, shut off. I have thermostat set for 67, my house is now down to 65. We are ready to throw in the towel on this. Plumber is tired of the problem and has an attitude now. We are at our whits end. Any suggestions?
Great information. We have a 15 SEER Bryant Preferred Series Heat Pump (4 Ton) and a FAG Heat Controller Furnace as an air handler. Ran the Heat Pump during December which wasn't extremely cold in the Northwest. Average around 30 degrees. And OMG, we got a $400 electric bill. Switched back over the Natural Gas Heat. House is 2 story with 2x4 construction. 2500 square feet and 26 windows.
@@851995STARGATE Our Auxillary Heat is the Gas Furnace. The Heat Pump is a Bryant Preferred Series with a matching Coil. Electricity is expensive here but geez, ridiculous bill. The Thermostat is wired for Heat Pump primary and Gas Furnace is "EM" Heat.
@@rodpratt8771 We do not have heat strips since our Air Handler is a Forced Air Gas Furnace. I refused to let the HVAC installer switch me to all electric. Electricity is really expensive here. The Outdoor Heat Pump and the Indoor Coil are matching. Enjoying the Gas Furnace. We may switch the T-stat wiring so the Furnace is no longer Emergency Heat. Make the Heat Pump EM.
I was told by hvac guy since my hear pump is over 20 years old it wouldn't be worth it to recharge it. The issue is we just had an ice storm, and my heat pump is frosting inside and outside. Does this sound right about just getting a new one?
Thank for the video. I had my furnace replaced 3 years ago and it was oversized. It countinued to over heat and shut off and turn back on right away. Ive had the technician out 7x now though out the install to try to fix. I was told by a different hvac tech that the has was tuned down to temporarily fix the over heating. Well now its in the negative cold snap here in Chicago and my heat cant keep up with the -10s and 20+degree windshield. Runs all night for few days stright sometimes dosent shut off. We went to bed and it was 74 degrees woke up and it was reading 68 degrees in the home. Had to buy a space heater to make it though last few days. Different techs who came out said the furnace installed was to large for my home. Also the return air duck was to small. They said the downstairs area could use a return because it dosen't have one. My question is, is this issue fixable and is the contract responsible for rectifying this problem with the correct size furnace. I have a warranty company that i use and they now said they aren't going to replace it, even though they admited to the contractor they used said the new units to big. My old furnace never had that problem before. Any recourse you can recommend be greatly appreciated.
Hello, my 21 year old York Heat Pump system takes a long time to increase the temp to the setting. I set it for 60 and leave for a few days. Prior to returning, i remotely set the temp to 72 approx. 4 hours before arrival and it has barely gone up. Probably reaches 66 degrees. I have seen this happen with temps in the 50's as well as below freezing. I'm in the 18458 area of Penn. any idea what could be wrong?
Hi & Thanks for your insight. My question with my air source heat pump with 24 KW heat strips (4) strips at 6 KW each. for aux or emergency heat. When running 12 KW aux heat - I am getting cold air but full amp draw. at 24 KW, I am getting warm air. I am thinking something is wrong with that 12 KW strips - maybe a short or something in that bank of heat strips. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Thank you for the video 🙏 I have a Mitsubishi mini split, very cold here in NY right now and the “heat” coming out is room temp. I go through them every month and clean them, blow them out with low pressure air of course.
Our Mitsubishi heat pump exceeds the target temperature by 8+ degrees. We have a mini split with an additional unit in our attic to heat 4 bedrooms. The attic pump is the issue. The RedLink connection between the thermostat and the unit was interrupted and did not automatically re-connect. The installer came out, and after establishing the connection the unit came back online. Later that day the heat kept rising well beyond the target temperature. Installer came back and installed a new thermostat. Later in the day it again went to 76 degrees with a target of 68. It's been 30+ degrees outside during the day, and 20 at night. Is there anything you can suggest?
@ Our unit is a Lennox. Over 20 years old. Very expensive to replace. My HVAC guy said he may be able to replace the compressor. Temperature is up so not too bad now.
the fan starts up and runs for a while then shuts off, the compressor is still, but no heat, already replaced the capacitor. And the emergency heat doesn’t heat up well, any suggestions
Ok got head scratcher here, so I have a carrier infinity heat pump and it’s 13 years old last winter one night I noticed it wasn’t heating as well when it got cold outside, it used to heat the home easily even when it was -15c outside now all of a sudden even when it’s like -8c it runs forever just to keep the heat stable in the home, like it will take 1 hour to raise the temp half a degree in the home while before it would have no problem warming it up in like 10 min, I have the serviceman come check the pump and said everything working fine and the pressures are all good. Btw it works fine in the summer with the ac when hot outside? Any ideas what it could be?
Am curious to know if you typically run your heat pump 12 months. I’ve noticed many in my area (Vernon B.C., Canada) do not utilize their heat pumps below approx 0c. Comments?
Good day I have a Mitsubishi mini split air heat pump and the indoor dehumidifier doesn’t seem to take the humidity out of the air. Try to figure out why. I run it for a hour and the humidity stays the same house cools down thanks for your help
I have a Lennox model LPP14HP42EP-2A heat pump HVAC. It seems to not blow warm air at times, but it does okay other times. I tested the heating coil, and it shows 10.8 Ohms and did not have voltage going to it when it was running. I wonder if it was not cold enough for that heating coil to be turned on. I see two devices in line with its supply. Is one a low-temperature switch and the other an over-temperature switch? I am new to this. I didnt know you could have a heater by refrigerant. I guess I just never thought about it or heard about it until I bought this house that has one. I guess I should have the refrigerant checked as a matter of course. what you say?
I’ve had problems since my unit was installed including several fault codes like frozen coil motor fault. It can can an hour to heat two degrees, it’s spring in Chicago and my electricity usage has already doubled. The installer put in the system and turned it on for a couple of days but did not install the back up heat could this have ruined something?
I have a pioneer seer mini split in my garage in the winter the coils inside and outside freeze up and I have a block of ice in my drain pan, what do you recommend? Or what do you think is the problem?
Turn off the emergency heat. Watch as the temperature drops and the system can no longer satisfy the stat. This is called your balance point. The point where the heat pump matches the heat loss.
If you have a daikin hp it sounds like you really have a goodman or amana with a generic thermostat. Or you have the fit but still a normal thermostat.
To make work my heat pump. I have to reset the breaker the furnace only . Why? After 5 mins later stop again . Any idea Is a Trane . Also when stop release some pressure air .
My question is my Amana 16 seer heat pump shut down And switch to auxiliary heating. This has happened twice when I go on my thermostat app and I turned temperature to 70° for a bet then turn back down to 68°. I noticed my outside unit is not running only the air handler heat. We are below freezing and have had some single digit nights. Is that normal for the outside unit to shut down?
The heat pump will activate back up heat when it goes into defrost mode if the indoor thermostat has a heat call. Back up will terminate when defrost cycle is complete and the heat pump will resume heating if there is still a heat call
I am having trouble that my heat pump seems to not go out of defrost mode unless outside temperature rises obove +5C. Can it be a faulty defrost sensor? It is a Mitsubishi fh25
Possibly. Moisture intrusion or corrosion where it connect to the board will result in an inaccurate temperature reading. First make sure the sensor is securely attached to the coil and in the proper location. Another "most likely" issue would be low refrigerant charge (low heat transfer). * I don't work on those units but turning breaker off for 30 seconds should clear faults.
@@nunya___ Thank you, checking connection and measuring sensor will be the next task. It was serviced a couple of weeks ago and gas pressure was ok. When working the heat is just fine.
I have a strange problem my system seems to go into defrost mode to often and in this short amount of time makes the house cold and it seems to work against itself where it will cool almost as often as it heats and makes the house very uncomfortable! Have you ever heard of a pump going into defrost mode to often? Or for to long?
I have Two 4 ton universal heat pumps heating and cooling my 3K+ SF home and they do a fine job. Power consumption will vary based on attic and wall Insulation, windows, etc.
Good morning I have a heat pump. It was installed this past summer. It worked fine in the short time but now it’s in the winter it does not run correctly. The major Duct Work runs in the crawlspace. The duct was recently insulated. The system is running about 20° below the temperature on the thermostat what could cause that
I have a Mitsubishi hyper heat H2I plus mini split. The manufacture states that it will work down to -13°. Does that mean that it shuts off at that temperature. And if it does work below -13° what is the minimum temperature that the machine will operate to?
Have the exact same equipment as you! I'm in northern Vermont and have seen our units heating fine at minus 18 F. The issue is efficiency! I light my wood furnace when it gets near single digits because the heat pump will definitely be costly!
Just had a brand new 3 ton split heat pump system installed and during colder night it is running and running and running? I am afraid to see my next electricity bill 😕 😢. Should it be running this much. I am not running emergency heat.
My emergency heat has kicked on my system I put a net mesh over the top to keep leaves and debris out in the fall and I noticed it was iced up in the little holes so I took it off I'm concerned about it getting froze up and damaged I'm not outside unit
I have rather old heatpump TRANE XR11 20yrs. Recently bought the house. Did some basic maintenance. Like insulated the copper pipes that were naked outside :( and cleaned with hose. My issue happens when temps drop in the 30s it fails to heat efficiently or even just stops the heat process. Sometimes it tends to blow cold thru the vents for extended time when on heat again when it is low 30s outside.
From what I have heard the older tech does not work as well in the really low temperatures. The newer cold climate systems have pretty much solved this issue for most situations.
Mines 10 years old and just bought it a year ago. Trouble shooting Trane x15i with heatpump outside. Trying to troubleshoot it why heat isn’t turning on right now too. Night it’s getting 35 to 40 degrees. Thinking it’s contact for power. Checking that tomorrow so curious if you ever figure it out
Just had a new Mitsubishi heat pump system put in. Two issues we're noticing in this mild 40-50 degree NE winter is a clicking sound when system just finished a heating cycle and also a whooshing noise only at night and only on our 18k unit. I've heard a Teflon based lubricant will fix the clicking. due to expansion/contraction of copper lines. Is this true? What is causing the whooshing and is there a fix? Thanks.
Perfectly normal. That's how defrost works. The click you are referring to is when the reversing valve switches back to heat and the whooshing noise is the refrigerant equalizing before the compressor turns back on.
The Whoosh is the system entering defrost mode (you may hear other sounds when it switches back and see white vapor cloud). The ticking noise could be mitigated by setting the indoor fan to run for a minute after the unit shuts off (if it's not doing this already). This setting may be called Econo mode or something similar. If the copper lines are rubbing you need to address that because tubing is thin an soft so rubbing can cause a leak. Methods are: put something between/move apart, strap together tight with zip ties or best...do both. Folded over duct tape can be used to make a pad to place between lines.
@@sprockkets The compress never shuts off for defrost. The sound is caused by pressure release while switching cycles. The only thing that shuts off is the outdoor fan motor.
@@nunya___ Incorrect. Every mini split I know of ramps down the compressor, then reverses, ramps up, and when done, ramps down, reverses, then ramps up in heat again.
@@sprockkets That's interesting. I moved into industrial applications in the 90's then building automation. I've not heard of compressors that slow and reverse. I'll research this as exhausting hot gas over the compressor motor windings seems problematic but thanks...new advancements _are_ exciting.
Hello my question is that my heat pump system. It blows out cold air for the first 2 minutes then it blows hot air and the opposite in the summer time. Thanks in advance for the advance.
How hot should the air be that is coming out of the registers? I have a GE, and Daikin at home, a Daikin at shop location, and two Mitsubishi at another. The GE seems to be really cool air. The Daikin is hot. My HVAC guy says it's normal. I think he installed it wrong.
I've got an LG mini split that sticks in defrost mode for hours at a time. It works perfectly above freezing, as soon as it's a degree or two below it sticks into defrost mode so long that the house cools right down. Do you have any suggestions for this? I've replaced the reversing valve solenoid, and also the temp sensor for the outdoor coil, and the issue still remains. Thanks in advance. :)
Why did you replace the reversing valve solenoid? Most mini splits activate the rv in heat. No mini split should be in defrost hours at a time. They either reach a certain temp on the sensor or give up after 15 minutes. Without you being outside when it goes into defrost, watching it melt, or monitoring its electric usage in real time, you really are in the dark.
@@sprockkets I replaced it because the old one was showing wide open on a meter, and it wasn't supposed to be a completely open circuit. I should have updated this comment I guess, because the problem with the HP was actually fixed by replacing that solenoid and the sensor. It works fine now down to -20, when before it wouldn't work at all at -1C or colder. I think when I made this comment I hadn't been patient enough to see if it was actually working right after replacing the parts.
-33f here and the panasonic aquarea heat pump decides to throw a fault code about the electric backup heater. The electric backup heater doesn't work at all. The pump stops all function when the fault arises. Sure miss the oil burner as it is currently 50f inside!
up to what temps it works - many manufacturers do marketing for heat pumps working to -25c -30c so since at your location you have very cold winters tell us up to what temp you think its effective from practical use case
@@betimgashi7408 There was an actual fault with the unit, which is now fixed (main logic board). The electric backup heater is designed specifically for too cold outside temps.
Thank you for all of your videos. I have a 3-year-old ruud 4 ton heat pump here in the Atlanta Georgia area. It has not heated our house over the last 3 years at all. We are getting the Daikin fit 17 seer tomorrow morning, please tell me if it works good In the heat mode.
My heat pump is having issues. My wife says she has to keep going out and hitting a reset button?? My electric bill has more than doubled in last two months.
Question.....you mention keeping the insides ( especially the bottom) clean of debris like grass and leaves...and routine servicing will take care of this. On my Goodman unit...and I think it's the same with all other brands......the middle-center section of the bottom pan of the outside unit ( where the compressor sits-on)....is lower than the surrounding perimeter where all the DRAIN SLOTS are. Question.....WHY aren't the drain slots at the lowest portion...in the center section?
Bosch IDS 20 3t HP unit installed. With 10kw toaster oven. NJ. First cold month 20-30 degrees or so daily temp= $300 electric bill. Needless to say adjusted that cut off point on the ecobee to switch over to the NG boiler. Was at 15 degrees, changed that to 25 real quick. Very happy w the 20.5 SEER in summer time tho!!!!
40 degrees f. Lower than that, you probably won’t get enough heat to bring the house up to set temperature and it will keep running.
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You give a lot of info. Thns. Maybe you can assist here. Do you know, what is a "high pressure lockout"? And could a defective thermostat caused the defrost board to show this code. My heat pump board is currently showing this code. The OUTDOOR unit DOES NOT, start up at all, in heating or cooling. There is 24v on the R and C terminals. In the "emergency" mode, I am not getting enough heat. It only heats up to 72degrees only, and runs all night. And never shuts off. This is a RHEEM system. 6yrs old. I am really frustrated now, because i am having all these issues at the same time. I am thinking the thermostat is mal functioning, then I think its the defrost board. then i think the heat strips has issues. I am a wreck with these issues. The indoor unit runs fine, but NOTHING from the OUT DOOR UNIT. I just can't figure it out. Hope you or any other can assist me.
I would like to know since I covered the top of my unit when it was new with the mesh covering to keep debris out from going down into the fan area I just took it off because it's iced up in the mesh netting
I live in Detroit so we were hit with that winter storm. We have those wall hvac units with baseboards in my loft and the hvacs stop working in the middle of the night in 1 degree weather outside. Long story short, half of my apt complex is particularly out of heat with the thermostats saying "defrosting" and I'm being charged +13 dollars in kwh a day for having the baseboards heat my 650sqft loft at 60 degrees with only 1/4 of my baseboards on. My PM are harassing me to leaving my baseboards on while they wait till AFTER Christmas to get someone out but I'm trying REALLY hard to keep my utilities under $200 WITHOUT heating problems. Anyways, I decided to stay at my family house and turn everything off except for the 1/2 baseboard in the living room to keep the pipes from freezing. This complex was renovated so cheaply smh. Will avoid this try of heating for now on.
Hi. I have a heat pump unit that’s about three years old. We changed it after our last unit went out. It works well or has always worked well during the summer but a couple of times here now that it’s winter and we’re in between temperatures where it can be in the 20s or the 30s in the morning but by the afternoon it may be in the 40s or the 50s or even the 60s Being that it’s March and the weather is going to be warming up better and may be a month or so. The problem is that when it gets warmer we turn it onto the AC so it can cool the house and the AC portion does not kick on. of course by the time nighttime falls it’s cold again so I’m not sure if that’s the issue that it’s getting confused between turning it on when it’s hot outside and then turning on the heat when it gets cold at night. Do you have any advice?
I live in phoenix arizona with a heat pump. My package unit does not have emergency heat so during winter my heater will work at times but will often go into defrost and blows cold air so i turn it off
Mr cool 4-5 ton here. It costs me a FORTUNE to run in the winter. My last bill was $600 and last month wasn’t that cold yet. The backup heat is for rich people. With no backup heat strip and the temp drops below 20° the unit becomes useless. But again, the heat strip is for rich people.
I have 2 Senvilles Aura 18,000btu from 2016. Eastern Canada brrr. I heat the living room one at 22c all winter and the basement one at 18c. I get ice buildup outdoors everytime it snows so I set the living room one at AC 17c for a while and it melts the outside unit. The basement one though, since it's already only 17c in the vasement, never defrosts even if I do the AC trick. Today I set the basement temp to 24c Turbo and will see if the AC trick will work later today. Nice units, but looking for tips about that.
Well that worked, but still wondering why they don't defrost by thenselves even though the evaporator sensors are iced up. It's been like that since new.
Just curious, I'm in Canada and its quite cold so my mini split will operate for a while blowing warm air and then it will stop. The display will change from showing the temperature I set it at to showing "HI" with no air blowing out.
My AC unit thermostat showed that a few nights ago. Unit completely tanked when I turned it on, thermostat was flashing "cool", but nothing-never done that before. I'm thinking you were defrosting, and my AC drain was plugged.
I have a heat pump that is about 1 1/2 years old. It is obviously winter and the temps are lower. It is putting out a musty rotten egg type smell. I changed all of the filters but it still smells. We are all electric so I know it's not a gas leak. What can I do?
Our heat pump is struggling to keep the house above 65 degrees F when it is 24 degrees F outside. The Aux Heat light is on, but still can't seam to get the house warm.
Old pumps do not perform well in the cold. If you get 24° and this pump is new, call whoever installed and sold it to you because they sold you the wrong kind. You need a low-temp/modern model. If you went for cheapest model, that would be why. The regular heat pumps are cheapest but stop working at 22°.
What does it mean if Dan cycles every 20min no schedul no heat or cool on fan turned too auto but still spins every 20min I was thinking maybe thermostat not working properly
Biggest issue with heat pumps in the winter is snow or ice buildup which can result in damage. Another issue is bad technicians who mess up the service valves during original installation.
This is what I don't understand. Why aren't heat pumps designed to be protected from snow and ice?? It would seem like common sense to design them in a way that would shield the fan and other internal components from any form of precipitation.
@@tutnod2449I have the same thought as it is raining and 33F in north Florida. Maybe a tent over the outdoor fan would have helped it not ice up. It was running a defrost mode, but we didn't know that was what it was doing. We had a power outage for 2 hours which left us at 59 indoors. I just decided to ask for 55 to keep the heat strips from coming on. They are too expensive. We can always dress warmer!
I tried to email you but it says no one replies there. Also maybe you could go in depth on using emergency heat in a video? What about other sources of heat like kerosene and how to do so safely if the power is out? I wanted to ask....I switched my emergency heat off back to heat and then found out I may have hurt my coil. There is ice and snow here. How can I tell if I damaged my unit? It's new. Do I just leave it on emergency heat until the ice storm is over? It's not supposed to get above 30 degrees for many days. Is long term use of emergency heat ok? How long is too long? I just got a new unit and the compressor on the last had gone out and they told me the emergency heat on my old one had started melting parts of my old unit so it makes me afraid to leave it on that too long. They said there could have been a fire with my old unit, it was 11 years old. I went ahead and switched back to emergency heat a couple minutes later so I'm hoping I didn't do any damage 😔
Great info! One quick cold weather question if I may: When you are trouble shooting a heat pump and turning it on an off, are you just leaving the furnace in a state of "call for heat" and then using the heat pump's 'fuse block' to start and stop the unit itself, or are you turning the furnace on and off each time? OR.... are you 'jumpering' some contacts on the heat pump to fire it up just for testing? I have always wondered what goes on with this. I am in a situation right now where I need to figure this out so that I can bypass the comp, then the fan and even check out if the contactor is acting up due to some noises I'm hearing. It seems a little silly to run in and out of the house each time. My plan was to pull the fuses, call for heat indoors and then plug the fuses in for testing and pull them back out between tests all while the furnace is still running. Does this make sense?
Have a three year old Grandaire package unit. When temps drop below 32deg unit will not run. When it warms above 32deg unit comes on and heat pump works per design. Anyone got any ideas on this problem?
My current issue is the fan running non stop, it's making me have to replace the filter every 30 days. I know ifs probably a relay but I don't know how to fix it and I really can't afford to pay someone
Get a washable filter. You can even frame a piece of fabric batting with wire behind it (to keep the fabric from being sucked into the return). Actually, your fan being on all the time, you could just let it suck a piece of whatever fabric right to the grate! Switch with a new piece and wash the old one. I'm not a professional, lol. Just got creative with my own system to save money.
New Goodman Heat pump, Sept 18, 2023! Running smooth, cooling home fine. Checked out heat 2 days ago as we were down to 38. Heating worked fine! Back to cooling. Heat and Cooling both work great. This morning, lowered cooling to 75, Florida warming again, the outside unit has a continuous whomp whomp sound, like it is have a hard time or hesitation. Yesterday a SS2 Safety-T-switch installed on air handler. Air return sounds fine, can not hear that unit outside at air return area. And breaker was to be changed, but something to do with our old house wiring. Waiting on electrician! Each May have nothing to do with running noise. AC guys gonna come out and install vibration isolator. But why? What do you think? Is the whomp whomp something you have dealt with?
Hello! Our temperature dropped in below freezing level. Like 0- 11F for the past few days and our heat pump turn off automatically so our main unit is the only one working that caused our electric bill insanely high. Now our temperature back on 40’s and it started working again. Why did it stopped working when we need it the most?😢
How old is it? The older tech does not do well in extreme low temps. The newer cold climate machines have pretty much solved this issue from what I understand.
Older units have a jumper on the control board in the outside unit. Shut off power to it and remove the cover. If you see a wire marked on the board with options: 30, 20, 10, 0 F., move jumper to lowest setting. Newer units just keep running to assist the aux heat. *For people with "Dual Fuel" AKA "Fossil" system, the heat pump _MUST_ shut off before the gas/oil heater takes over...otherwise it will damage the heatpump. ** If your HP is 20+ years old with low SEER rating you can drop your monthly energy bill by replacing with newer tech. I replaced a 11 SEER unit with 16 and the guy's power bill dropped by $50/month. High SEER units are drastically more expensive to purchase and therefore take longer to recoup the costs. Mid Tier systems are usually the best value. I buy and own equipment by smaller brands like ARCOAir as almost all the components for _all_ brands are "off the shelf" and there's little difference in dependability/quality. I spec these for me, fiends, family, neighbors. ***Check with your power company for rebates; they can be hundreds of dollars in savings. -tech
Emergency heat stays on and isn’t heating well. In South Carolina and had a recent drop in temperature to lower than 20 degrees. If I replace the defrost board will it make the unit defrost the ice?
Just got an estimate for Champion heat pump and air handler. They say it comes with a 10 year labor warranty but I cannot find much info online about their products or warranty. Weird.
I'll need to find a good hvac person. I don't trust my defrost mode from the installers. It is a larger company, and they seemed to take the shortest/easiest route with zero pride in anything. My defrost mode kicked in and the fan shut off, but the compressor didn't. I shut the whole unit off thinking it was something wrong. When I found out about defrost mode, it was somewhat I relief, but it needs to be checked. As well as settings, that they probably didn't bother with.
Carrier heat pump does not go into defrost mode or engage the fan. Thermostat indicates heat pump running but fan not spinning and then system switches to strip heating after 5-10 minutes. No error messages on the Cor thermostat. Unit was working 1 day ago with evident defrost steam and fan spin (camera is on the heat pump to record activity 24/7). 4 years old & circuit board replaced 2 years ago. Refrigerant levels unknown.
I rent but the heat doesn't work when it falls below 30 degrees the unit blows out cool air in the winter time it does fine in the summer but but when winter time comes you might well be out side I try tell my landlord to get a better heating system because this on has been in for sixteen years and it needs to be replaced but he said as long it working he not going to replace it but I know it's a matter of time the units will fell instead of 7 thousand dollars he will be paying 16 thousand dollars to replace the units
My biggest issue with my heat pump whether it’s winter or summer is the constant turning on and off of the unit. AC for example. I want the house at 68 it goes up to 69.The unit comes on and brings the house back down to 68. Five minutes later the house is 69° and the heat pump comes on again. This is totally annoying at night when I’m trying to sleep and the heat pump is constantly turning on and off every 10 or 15 minutes, it’s loud. I bought one of those thick jackets that goes around the condenser which helped a little and I lifted up the compressor unit and it is sitting on rubber blocks to absorb vibrations only helped a little bit
I’m kinda of annoyed because I e had this problem 2 ‘s and they came out and thawed it out and checked it one said it might had a hole pin in it but the other guy like well he’s the owner of the AC company and didn’t do what he’d recommended so idk it’s doing it again and it’s winter time so it’s either call them again or call someone else
Heat pumps are a poor idea if you live anywhere that gets below freezing. Oh sure technology says you can do this or that but it just creates more problems and things that can go wrong.
@@ctskidoo judging by the endless comments here about bad experiences with heat pumps in cold climates, they appear to be an unreliable method for heating homes there.
I do HVAC for a living, we get snow where I live, and I just use my fireplace. No gas, no electricity, and splitting wood is a great winter time drinking activity. I never have to worry about chewed up hoses, burnt motors, blown fuses, broken ignitors or flame sensors, reversing valves.. it’s just chunks of wood in a brick fireplace.
and a few six packs 😁
@@jake3043 That sounds great.
This was my great idea after moving into a new home... until I discovered that, due to not being used, there are wasps living in the fireplace, alive even during the cold.
Lesson is, make sure to use your fireplace regularly!
I just woke up after that winter storm in south Alabama and the heat went out sometime in the night. The whole town is shut down. People dont really get this kinda snow down here. I know its gonna kill a couple folks. House fires have got like 5 or 6 people already. Im gonna try to be a help to my neighbors. Fix this heater for these women. These tips help me. I had a new install job doing AC work as a kid.
Thanks for the info. My Heat Pump unit was installed brand new a year ago but when it gets below 30 degrees it has trouble heating to the set temp. Right now it is 10 degrees out and I have it set at 70 degrees in my home but it will only heat to about 66 degrees. Is this common?
My does the same thing
@@jessedoschadis3868 My Neighbor has a Mitsubishi system and when it's 25 outside, his house is 61 degrees inside. I told him to use a Force Air Gas Furnace as the Air Handler and for emergency Heat. He said no! He said he is saving the Planet. So now after spending over $20k for the current system, he said maybe you were right.
@@jessedoschadis3868 Yes. Everyone seems to be junking Natural Gas and going electric. HVAC Sales Companies are not telling Home Owners the truth. We forced the Sales Team to include a Gas Furnace and a Heat Pump. No strip heat. If we need Emergency Heat, the Gas Furnace comes on. We are switching to Natural Gas at 40 degrees or colder. Never looked back.
Same set at 70 currently at 60
Can I run my heat pump on Emergency heal if over 32 degrees. My outdoor unit is all iced up inside for 2 weeks now. It is not melting. Temps this week are in the 40s. Should it melt quickly?
My system maintains the temperature in the winter time but will not shut off the system. I set it at 74 and it is 30 degrees outside and it will reach 74 and not turn off. Why won't it turn off. It is the same for whatever temperature it is set for.
yes..my heat pump just not blow hot this week and very cold inside the house. now find out the wire connector both side on the bottom that panel rusted and broken.becaue.of my poor maintenance.
Should you allow your heat pump (outdoor unit) to run during single digit temperatures even if it may run for days? Some say no but most say it's better for the parts (outside unti) to be moving rather than sitting still in extreme cold temps.
I'm facing the same situation and would welcome someone answering your question. It's not just single digit operation....it can be any low-temp ( below freezing 32degF) operation depending upon component sizing. We are in SC and are experiencing unusual 15-20 degF weather and my unit seems to be running all the time during this period. Everything is functioning well....and my "gut" says any moving parts that continue to move is better than sitting idle during this cold spell....especially if after it's idle you then call for heat and MAKE parts move after it sat a while...my gut says this is worse. Anyone?.......
I asked my HVAC service guy this exact question a few days ago. I (me) am no expert but he summarized: If your system (I have a dual unit upstairs/downstairs) is functioning properly and well maintained, there is no need to keep it running in extreme temperatures if not needed. Below freezing is mainly a concern if ice builds up on your units and they start. The other issue is it will take your house (almost 3800sf) a very long time to heat if not in regular operation to maintain temperature. He also mentioned something called auxiliary heating pulls a lot of amps to quickly heat so much better to anticipate/maintain than catch up. He also mentioned that yes the units will likely run constantly in any extreme temps, high or low. Hope this info helps...
If a normal split unit from a US brand, no, you shouldn't run it if it isn't delivering heat, and most can't below 20 or 15F. At that point you are just asking for issues since the compressor cannot generate a low enough pressure to keep flows up for heating.
Manufacturers say leave them on.
Depends on the unit, we just made a few videos about this, and low ambient units are designed for this. Just check the specs on your unit. We set our systems to shut off at 75% capacity normally or whenever the load would cause them to struggle. In Colorado the low ambient heat pumps we put in are designed to run to 0F or below, but a basic single stage heat pump might not keep up so check the specs
How do you check refrigerant levels during cold temperature
You typically want above a 70° ambient temperature to properly check refrigerant level. In a low outdoor ambient situation I would recommend a charging jacket for system with txv. Heat pump system usually has a manufacture guide on the unit.
We just pull it down with a few pounds of positive pressure and weigh it back in.
Carrier usually comes with a charging chart that has pressure readings depending on the ambient conditions. Some rules of thumbs you can use are roughly 90-100F on discharge gas temp. above ambient. 5-15F above inside ambient on the liquid line and 5-15F below outdoor ambient for suction temp.
@@mackenziegray2090 Thanks
Thanks for your videos! Always illuminating. My recent issue with a Carrier Infinity heat pump, now at 14 years of faithful service, came with a "tuneup" visit from a local service provider. Everything worked fine, but like you mentioned, I've needed to watch it to see that, in the winter, it seemed to operate a little less efficiently than its identical companion that was covering the 2nd floor as an independent zone. It seemed to go into defrost mode a little sooner, and the auxiliary heat would come on at a slightly higher temperature than the 2nd floor unit. Really hard for me to say how frequently, because I haven't stared at it all the time, just occasional glances during the colder temps (40 degrees Fahrenheit or colder). I told the service guy my suspicions, and he quickly homed in on a constricted metering piston as the likely culprit, based entirely on observing that the line area around the piston was getting frost on it before the coils. OK, seemed possible, but add to that his estimation that the repair would entail also replacing all 14+ pounds of R410A refrigerant, at $195 per pound, and I was looking at a $3000 repair bill. PLUS the possibility that my compressor was on its way to failing as well because of this faulty valve stressing it over time, so please consider just getting a NEW HEAT PUMP! Since the heat pump seems to be working, why would I replace it? And why would I put fresh refrigerant in it, at such a high expense? Please advise if you can on what I might consider doing. I thought about just waiting til the spring and having it tested both ways more rigorously then to try getting the compressor health scrutinized, and in the meantime just running it in emergency heat mode during the cold nights - also very expensive, I am aware.
2 heat pump single story house. One unit is starting up outside and within 10 seconds shuts off… then it turns on again. Any suggestions? Thanks
Refrigerant levels good?
Sounds low on refrigerant
last year it worked fine, this year in heat mode the condenser froze up and while in em heat only the heat strip works not the condenser. where do you recommend I start troubleshooting. I am capable and have a multimeter and have worked on ac units but never heat pumps
I have a new air to air heat pump less than a year old and it never gets to thermostat temp usually 1 or two degrees beliw set temp. In the winter when temps are below 40 it runs constantly and in summer when temps above 80 it runs continuously. Clean filter and coils. Do i have a defective unit or other problems? Or is this just the way heat pumps work?
@@plm3006 Their efficiency drops off as the outside temperature drops. I think 35 degrees is where they start to fall off rapidly.
We had a complete new 3 ton system installed and air exchanger it was in oct 2024 it was still hot weather the system worked great , than winter came i live in northeast Florida so the winter's are not bad , this year right now , 43 degrees and 29 at night . So I put the heat on at 84 , the auxiliary heat comes on and blows cool air than I lower the temperature to 72 degrees the regular heat and it blows hot air please tell me what is wrong for my new $14,000 system sir
It is a trane the last one we owed lasted 21 years sir
My lennox elite system is short cycling. Clean filter, condensor find were cleaned and all gunk removed from the base. Is there any kind of valve or sensor that may be causing it to kick on off multiple times within 20 min? The unit cools just fine. Running it in emergency heat is killing my electric bill.
What are the high & low balance point settings?
@User-qazws unfortunately at the moment i dont know, i need a set of gauges. Going to borrow a set soon from my buddy. I switched to commercial duct where i no longer need them. Had to get out my old text book and did some reading and seems the only way to truly diagnose the issue is with a pressure reading. Could be a metering device, drier bulb, txb valve. Im also going to clean my a-coil thoroughly with some simple green solution.
Thermostats are showing stage 2 heating but the outside units are not running. Is that normal?
My system is 3 years old & the heat pump was frozen. I’m in Va. Had a tech come out to take it all apart just to get the ice off. And did nothing else! It’s on a warranty. Now temperatures will be in single digits in the morning for 3 days. When do you use emergency heat?
my heat pump keeps pumping heat after it hits the set temperature and just keeps pumping heat and wont shut off .i have to trip the breaker.the service company i called cant figure it out after 3 visits any idea thank you.
Either the outdoor contactor is stuck closed or the indoor thermostat is defective.
Brand new Rudd heat pump system. Have had electrician out for a total of 7 hours, plumber has tried everything, they can’t get our new system to work. The unit, has not worked from day one. So the plumber keeps just trying thing, new sensors, control panel, outside temp sensor, control panel. He was out angain yesterday, and replaced the outdoor temp sensor. We live in Mn, temp just got up to 31 so heat pump unit just kicked in, for 15 sec., and has been doing that for the last hour. Kick in for 30 sec., shut off 5 min. Later kick in again, shut off. I have thermostat set for 67, my house is now down to 65. We are ready to throw in the towel on this. Plumber is tired of the problem and has an attitude now. We are at our whits end. Any suggestions?
Great information. We have a 15 SEER Bryant Preferred Series Heat Pump (4 Ton) and a FAG Heat Controller Furnace as an air handler. Ran the Heat Pump during December which wasn't extremely cold in the Northwest. Average around 30 degrees. And OMG, we got a $400 electric bill. Switched back over the Natural Gas Heat. House is 2 story with 2x4 construction. 2500 square feet and 26 windows.
That means your using auxiliary heat or just a poor heat pump with lower hspf rating......
@@851995STARGATE Our Auxillary Heat is the Gas Furnace. The Heat Pump is a Bryant Preferred Series with a matching Coil. Electricity is expensive here but geez, ridiculous bill. The Thermostat is wired for Heat Pump primary and Gas Furnace is "EM" Heat.
Wow that’s pretty high I wander if you were running heat strips a lot?
@rodpratt8771 We don't have heat strips. Emergency Heat is Forced air gas.
@@rodpratt8771 We do not have heat strips since our Air Handler is a Forced Air Gas Furnace. I refused to let the HVAC installer switch me to all electric. Electricity is really expensive here. The Outdoor Heat Pump and the Indoor Coil are matching. Enjoying the Gas Furnace. We may switch the T-stat wiring so the Furnace is no longer Emergency Heat. Make the Heat Pump EM.
I was told by hvac guy since my hear pump is over 20 years old it wouldn't be worth it to recharge it. The issue is we just had an ice storm, and my heat pump is frosting inside and outside. Does this sound right about just getting a new one?
Thank for the video. I had my furnace replaced 3 years ago and it was oversized. It countinued to over heat and shut off and turn back on right away. Ive had the technician out 7x now though out the install to try to fix. I was told by a different hvac tech that the has was tuned down to temporarily fix the over heating. Well now its in the negative cold snap here in Chicago and my heat cant keep up with the -10s and 20+degree windshield. Runs all night for few days stright sometimes dosent shut off. We went to bed and it was 74 degrees woke up and it was reading 68 degrees in the home. Had to buy a space heater to make it though last few days. Different techs who came out said the furnace installed was to large for my home. Also the return air duck was to small. They said the downstairs area could use a return because it dosen't have one. My question is, is this issue fixable and is the contract responsible for rectifying this problem with the correct size furnace. I have a warranty company that i use and they now said they aren't going to replace it, even though they admited to the contractor they used said the new units to big. My old furnace never had that problem before. Any recourse you can recommend be greatly appreciated.
Hello, my 21 year old York Heat Pump system takes a long time to increase the temp to the setting. I set it for 60 and leave for a few days. Prior to returning, i remotely set the temp to 72 approx. 4 hours before arrival and it has barely gone up. Probably reaches 66 degrees. I have seen this happen with temps in the 50's as well as below freezing. I'm in the 18458 area of Penn. any idea what could be wrong?
Hi & Thanks for your insight.
My question with my air source heat pump with 24 KW heat strips (4) strips at 6 KW each. for aux or emergency heat. When running 12 KW aux heat - I am getting cold air but full amp draw. at 24 KW, I am getting warm air. I am thinking something is wrong with that 12 KW strips - maybe a short or something in that bank of heat strips. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Thank you for the video 🙏 I have a Mitsubishi mini split, very cold here in NY right now and the “heat” coming out is room temp. I go through them every month and clean them, blow them out with low pressure air of course.
Our Mitsubishi heat pump exceeds the target temperature by 8+ degrees. We have a mini split with an additional unit in our attic to heat 4 bedrooms. The attic pump is the issue. The RedLink connection between the thermostat and the unit was interrupted and did not automatically re-connect. The installer came out, and after establishing the connection the unit came back online. Later that day the heat kept rising well beyond the target temperature. Installer came back and installed a new thermostat. Later in the day it again went to 76 degrees with a target of 68. It's been 30+ degrees outside during the day, and 20 at night. Is there anything you can suggest?
It’s 18 degrees here. Ours is maintaining heat inside but the outdoor unit is noisy 😮
Don't let anybody fool you,unless you live in the South HeatPumps are almost useless and are expensive to run.
@
Just got my electric bill yesterday. It was $307 🥲
ours is SO loud!! it's brand new. having under 20 degree weather here in the south. did you find out if there were any issues with yours?
@alexwaters6948 if you or your husband is handy or you want to pay somebody you probably could turn your blower down a speed or to.
@
Our unit is a Lennox. Over 20 years old. Very expensive to replace. My HVAC guy said he may be able to replace the compressor. Temperature is up so not too bad now.
Could a bad capacitor cause heat pump to run in auxiliary heat 1-8/25
the fan starts up and runs for a while then shuts off, the compressor is still, but no heat, already replaced the capacitor. And the emergency heat doesn’t heat up well, any suggestions
Ok got head scratcher here, so I have a carrier infinity heat pump and it’s 13 years old last winter one night I noticed it wasn’t heating as well when it got cold outside, it used to heat the home easily even when it was -15c outside now all of a sudden even when it’s like -8c it runs forever just to keep the heat stable in the home, like it will take 1 hour to raise the temp half a degree in the home while before it would have no problem warming it up in like 10 min, I have the serviceman come check the pump and said everything working fine and the pressures are all good. Btw it works fine in the summer with the ac when hot outside? Any ideas what it could be?
Am curious to know if you typically run your heat pump 12 months.
I’ve noticed many in my area (Vernon B.C., Canada) do not utilize their heat pumps below approx 0c.
Comments?
Yes it runs year round summer and winter
I’m in Quebec and usually the heat pumps run till about -12 c and then the auxiliary heat kicks in to help below that
Did they check the electric backup heat? When it is under 30’ it is more efficient to run electric strips
Chances are your auxiliary heater is shot.
Good day I have a Mitsubishi mini split air heat pump and the indoor dehumidifier doesn’t seem to take the humidity out of the air. Try to figure out why. I run it for a hour and the humidity stays the same house cools down thanks for your help
I have a Lennox model LPP14HP42EP-2A heat pump HVAC. It seems to not blow warm air at times, but it does okay other times. I tested the heating coil, and it shows 10.8 Ohms and did not have voltage going to it when it was running. I wonder if it was not cold enough for that heating coil to be turned on. I see two devices in line with its supply. Is one a low-temperature switch and the other an over-temperature switch? I am new to this. I didnt know you could have a heater by refrigerant. I guess I just never thought about it or heard about it until I bought this house that has one. I guess I should have the refrigerant checked as a matter of course. what you say?
I’ve had problems since my unit was installed including several fault codes like frozen coil motor fault. It can can an hour to heat two degrees, it’s spring in Chicago and my electricity usage has already doubled. The installer put in the system and turned it on for a couple of days but did not install the back up heat could this have ruined something?
No. That won't harm the system. Aux heat is sometimes never installed or wired so it only runs in Emergency Heat mode.
My heat pump is groaning every time it kicks on. What issue should I suspect?
I have a pioneer seer mini split in my garage in the winter the coils inside and outside freeze up and I have a block of ice in my drain pan, what do you recommend? Or what do you think is the problem?
My coils looks just like the picture that that you're standing next to in the winter, it may be only 20 degrees outside.
My system makes heat at winter but has short cycles. So short as 20 seconds. What could be the cause.
I have a Daikin heat pump and was wondering how low can I set the setpoint before my alt heat kicks in?
Turn off the emergency heat. Watch as the temperature drops and the system can no longer satisfy the stat. This is called your balance point. The point where the heat pump matches the heat loss.
If you have a daikin hp it sounds like you really have a goodman or amana with a generic thermostat. Or you have the fit but still a normal thermostat.
To make work my heat pump. I have to reset the breaker the furnace only . Why?
After 5 mins later stop again .
Any idea Is a Trane .
Also when stop release some pressure air .
I'm having same issue
My question is my Amana 16 seer heat pump shut down And switch to auxiliary heating. This has happened twice when I go on my thermostat app and I turned temperature to 70° for a bet then turn back down to 68°. I noticed my outside unit is not running only the air handler heat. We are below freezing and have had some single digit nights. Is that normal for the outside unit to shut down?
The heat pump will activate back up heat when it goes into defrost mode if the indoor thermostat has a heat call. Back up will terminate when defrost cycle is complete and the heat pump will resume heating if there is still a heat call
I am having trouble that my heat pump seems to not go out of defrost mode unless outside temperature rises obove +5C. Can it be a faulty defrost sensor?
It is a Mitsubishi fh25
Possibly. Moisture intrusion or corrosion where it connect to the board will result in an inaccurate temperature reading. First make sure the sensor is securely attached to the coil and in the proper location. Another "most likely" issue would be low refrigerant charge (low heat transfer).
* I don't work on those units but turning breaker off for 30 seconds should clear faults.
@@nunya___ Thank you, checking connection and measuring sensor will be the next task. It was serviced a couple of weeks ago and gas pressure was ok. When working the heat is just fine.
I have a strange problem my system seems to go into defrost mode to often and in this short amount of time makes the house cold and it seems to work against itself where it will cool almost as often as it heats and makes the house very uncomfortable! Have you ever heard of a pump going into defrost mode to often? Or for to long?
My simple question is can it heat my 3200 sf home? If so, how many kwh will I use a day?
I have Two 4 ton universal heat pumps heating and cooling my 3K+ SF home and they do a fine job. Power consumption will vary based on attic and wall Insulation, windows, etc.
Ou r out door until on our heat pump is not coming on during heat mode
E
Good morning I have a heat pump. It was installed this past summer. It worked fine in the short time but now it’s in the winter it does not run correctly. The major Duct Work runs in the crawlspace. The duct was recently insulated.
The system is running about 20° below the temperature on the thermostat what could cause that
What happens if fa.n. Out side doesnt come on
I have a Mitsubishi hyper heat H2I plus mini split. The manufacture states that it will work down to -13°. Does that mean that it shuts off at that temperature. And if it does work below -13° what is the minimum temperature that the machine will operate to?
What causes the outside unit to freeze on fins
Have the exact same equipment as you! I'm in northern Vermont and have seen our units heating fine at minus 18 F. The issue is efficiency! I light my wood furnace when it gets near single digits because the heat pump will definitely be costly!
Just had a brand new 3 ton split heat pump system installed and during colder night it is running and running and running? I am afraid to see my next electricity bill 😕 😢.
Should it be running this much. I am not running emergency heat.
My emergency heat has kicked on my system I put a net mesh over the top to keep leaves and debris out in the fall and I noticed it was iced up in the little holes so I took it off I'm concerned about it getting froze up and damaged I'm not outside unit
I have rather old heatpump TRANE XR11 20yrs. Recently bought the house. Did some basic maintenance. Like insulated the copper pipes that were naked outside :( and cleaned with hose. My issue happens when temps drop in the 30s it fails to heat efficiently or even just stops the heat process. Sometimes it tends to blow cold thru the vents for extended time when on heat again when it is low 30s outside.
From what I have heard the older tech does not work as well in the really low temperatures. The newer cold climate systems have pretty much solved this issue for most situations.
Swapping refrigeratants is sometimes possible. Talk to an HVAC contractor.
That is typical for old heat pumps. Only the new ones heat below freezing.
Mines 10 years old and just bought it a year ago. Trouble shooting Trane x15i with heatpump outside. Trying to troubleshoot it why heat isn’t turning on right now too. Night it’s getting 35 to 40 degrees.
Thinking it’s contact for power. Checking that tomorrow so curious if you ever figure it out
@@Oneklickmedia Did you ever figure out why the heat was not working, why your system would blow cold air even with the hear mode turned on?
Outdoor coil not turning could it be frozen ?
Just had a new Mitsubishi heat pump system put in. Two issues we're noticing in this mild 40-50 degree NE winter is a clicking sound when system just finished a heating cycle and also a whooshing noise only at night and only on our 18k unit. I've heard a Teflon based lubricant will fix the clicking. due to expansion/contraction of copper lines. Is this true? What is causing the whooshing and is there a fix? Thanks.
Perfectly normal. That's how defrost works. The click you are referring to is when the reversing valve switches back to heat and the whooshing noise is the refrigerant equalizing before the compressor turns back on.
The Whoosh is the system entering defrost mode (you may hear other sounds when it switches back and see white vapor cloud). The ticking noise could be mitigated by setting the indoor fan to run for a minute after the unit shuts off (if it's not doing this already). This setting may be called Econo mode or something similar. If the copper lines are rubbing you need to address that because tubing is thin an soft so rubbing can cause a leak. Methods are: put something between/move apart, strap together tight with zip ties or best...do both. Folded over duct tape can be used to make a pad to place between lines.
@@sprockkets The compress never shuts off for defrost. The sound is caused by pressure release while switching cycles. The only thing that shuts off is the outdoor fan motor.
@@nunya___ Incorrect. Every mini split I know of ramps down the compressor, then reverses, ramps up, and when done, ramps down, reverses, then ramps up in heat again.
@@sprockkets That's interesting. I moved into industrial applications in the 90's then building automation. I've not heard of compressors that slow and reverse. I'll research this as exhausting hot gas over the compressor motor windings seems problematic but thanks...new advancements _are_ exciting.
Could someone tell me why my outside compressor fan won't come on when its 32 degrees or lower?When its not running the heat inside is cold.
Hello my question is that my heat pump system. It blows out cold air for the first 2 minutes then it blows hot air and the opposite in the summer time. Thanks in advance for the advance.
How hot should the air be that is coming out of the registers? I have a GE, and Daikin at home, a Daikin at shop location, and two Mitsubishi at another. The GE seems to be really cool air. The Daikin is hot. My HVAC guy says it's normal. I think he installed it wrong.
What happen when you have freezing rain and heat pump is iced over making a noise.
I’d shut it off for now. Might be having trouble defrosting
Thanks. I see people putting a cover over there heat pump. Is that alright.
I've got an LG mini split that sticks in defrost mode for hours at a time. It works perfectly above freezing, as soon as it's a degree or two below it sticks into defrost mode so long that the house cools right down. Do you have any suggestions for this? I've replaced the reversing valve solenoid, and also the temp sensor for the outdoor coil, and the issue still remains. Thanks in advance. :)
Maybe relocate the sensor?
Check charge
Why did you replace the reversing valve solenoid? Most mini splits activate the rv in heat.
No mini split should be in defrost hours at a time. They either reach a certain temp on the sensor or give up after 15 minutes.
Without you being outside when it goes into defrost, watching it melt, or monitoring its electric usage in real time, you really are in the dark.
@@sprockkets I replaced it because the old one was showing wide open on a meter, and it wasn't supposed to be a completely open circuit. I should have updated this comment I guess, because the problem with the HP was actually fixed by replacing that solenoid and the sensor. It works fine now down to -20, when before it wouldn't work at all at -1C or colder. I think when I made this comment I hadn't been patient enough to see if it was actually working right after replacing the parts.
@@peterconrad861 ok
-33f here and the panasonic aquarea heat pump decides to throw a fault code about the electric backup heater. The electric backup heater doesn't work at all. The pump stops all function when the fault arises. Sure miss the oil burner as it is currently 50f inside!
Ouch! I hope you get heat soon!
up to what temps it works - many manufacturers do marketing for heat pumps working to -25c -30c so since at your location you have very cold winters tell us up to what temp you think its effective from practical use case
@@betimgashi7408 There was an actual fault with the unit, which is now fixed (main logic board). The electric backup heater is designed specifically for too cold outside temps.
Thank you for all of your videos. I have a 3-year-old ruud 4 ton heat pump here in the Atlanta Georgia area. It has not heated our house over the last 3 years at all. We are getting the Daikin fit 17 seer tomorrow morning, please tell me if it works good In the heat mode.
Did you get the heat pump version? If you’re not sure, send me the model number
Yes, I got the heat pump DZ17V
I think you’ll be happy 🙂
Thanks
My heat pump is having issues. My wife says she has to keep going out and hitting a reset button?? My electric bill has more than doubled in last two months.
Question.....you mention keeping the insides ( especially the bottom) clean of debris like grass and leaves...and routine servicing will take care of this. On my Goodman unit...and I think it's the same with all other brands......the middle-center section of the bottom pan of the outside unit ( where the compressor sits-on)....is lower than the surrounding perimeter where all the DRAIN SLOTS are. Question.....WHY aren't the drain slots at the lowest portion...in the center section?
Bosch IDS 20 3t HP unit installed. With 10kw toaster oven. NJ. First cold month 20-30 degrees or so daily temp= $300 electric bill. Needless to say adjusted that cut off point on the ecobee to switch over to the NG boiler. Was at 15 degrees, changed that to 25 real quick. Very happy w the 20.5 SEER in summer time tho!!!!
My Heat Pump is dual fuel…what’s the ideal crossover temp?
40 degrees f. Lower than that, you probably won’t get enough heat to bring the house up to set temperature and it will keep running.
You give a lot of info. Thns. Maybe you can assist here. Do you know, what is a "high pressure lockout"? And could a defective thermostat caused the defrost board to show this code. My heat pump board is currently showing this code. The OUTDOOR unit DOES NOT, start up at all, in heating or cooling. There is 24v on the R and C terminals. In the "emergency" mode, I am not getting enough heat. It only heats up to 72degrees only, and runs all night. And never shuts off. This is a RHEEM system. 6yrs old. I am really frustrated now, because i am having all these issues at the same time. I am thinking the thermostat is mal functioning, then I think its the defrost board. then i think the heat strips has issues. I am a wreck with these issues. The indoor unit runs fine, but NOTHING from the OUT DOOR UNIT. I just can't figure it out. Hope you or any other can assist me.
I would like to know since I covered the top of my unit when it was new with the mesh covering to keep debris out from going down into the fan area I just took it off because it's iced up in the mesh netting
I live in Detroit so we were hit with that winter storm. We have those wall hvac units with baseboards in my loft and the hvacs stop working in the middle of the night in 1 degree weather outside. Long story short, half of my apt complex is particularly out of heat with the thermostats saying "defrosting" and I'm being charged +13 dollars in kwh a day for having the baseboards heat my 650sqft loft at 60 degrees with only 1/4 of my baseboards on. My PM are harassing me to leaving my baseboards on while they wait till AFTER Christmas to get someone out but I'm trying REALLY hard to keep my utilities under $200 WITHOUT heating problems. Anyways, I decided to stay at my family house and turn everything off except for the 1/2 baseboard in the living room to keep the pipes from freezing. This complex was renovated so cheaply smh. Will avoid this try of heating for now on.
My Amana outside condenser runs, but the inside furnace just stopped for some reason. It is like it lost power. I reset everything and nothing.
Hi.
I have a heat pump unit that’s about three years old. We changed it after our last unit went out. It works well or has always worked well during the summer but a couple of times here now that it’s winter and we’re in between temperatures where it can be in the 20s or the 30s in the morning but by the afternoon it may be in the 40s or the 50s or even the 60s Being that it’s March and the weather is going to be warming up better and may be a month or so. The problem is that when it gets warmer we turn it onto the AC so it can cool the house and the AC portion does not kick on. of course by the time nighttime falls it’s cold again so I’m not sure if that’s the issue that it’s getting confused between turning it on when it’s hot outside and then turning on the heat when it gets cold at night. Do you have any advice?
It could be a problem with the 4 way valve but confusing is not a reason
I live in phoenix arizona with a heat pump. My package unit does not have emergency heat so during winter my heater will work at times but will often go into defrost and blows cold air so i turn it off
Mr cool 4-5 ton here. It costs me a FORTUNE to run in the winter. My last bill was $600 and last month wasn’t that cold yet. The backup heat is for rich people. With no backup heat strip and the temp drops below 20° the unit becomes useless. But again, the heat strip is for rich people.
The heat strip... heater coil come inside of your indoor unit.. not under standing what your getting at?!?!
I have 2 Senvilles Aura 18,000btu from 2016. Eastern Canada brrr.
I heat the living room one at 22c all winter and the basement one at 18c. I get ice buildup outdoors everytime it snows so I set the living room one at AC 17c for a while and it melts the outside unit. The basement one though, since it's already only 17c in the vasement, never defrosts even if I do the AC trick. Today I set the basement temp to 24c Turbo and will see if the AC trick will work later today. Nice units, but looking for tips about that.
Well that worked, but still wondering why they don't defrost by thenselves even though the evaporator sensors are iced up. It's been like that since new.
Great info.
Just curious, I'm in Canada and its quite cold so my mini split will operate for a while blowing warm air and then it will stop. The display will change from showing the temperature I set it at to showing "HI" with no air blowing out.
Maybe defrost cycle of the external unit?
Could be anything. One of mine will not show the temp in the app below 5F.
My AC unit thermostat showed that a few nights ago. Unit completely tanked when I turned it on, thermostat was flashing "cool", but nothing-never done that before. I'm thinking you were defrosting, and my AC drain was plugged.
I have a heat pump that is about 1 1/2 years old. It is obviously winter and the temps are lower. It is putting out a musty rotten egg type smell. I changed all of the filters but it still smells. We are all electric so I know it's not a gas leak. What can I do?
That sounds like compressor leak?
Our heat pump is struggling to keep the house above 65 degrees F when it is 24 degrees F outside. The Aux Heat light is on, but still can't seam to get the house warm.
Old pumps do not perform well in the cold. If you get 24° and this pump is new, call whoever installed and sold it to you because they sold you the wrong kind. You need a low-temp/modern model. If you went for cheapest model, that would be why. The regular heat pumps are cheapest but stop working at 22°.
What does it mean if Dan cycles every 20min no schedul no heat or cool on fan turned too auto but still spins every 20min I was thinking maybe thermostat not working properly
I notice it runs longer periods of time after heating and ends up cooling the room after it just heated it Not sure if it’s the defrost censor.
My unit AC brand new 6 months old 38* outside and no heat😢 WTF 🤬
Same spent 10000 dollars paid in cash and my system couldn't keep up once it got down to freezing temps wtf
Biggest issue with heat pumps in the winter is snow or ice buildup which can result in damage.
Another issue is bad technicians who mess up the service valves during original installation.
I wonder if manufacturers could come up with a better way than current service valves
This is what I don't understand. Why aren't heat pumps designed to be protected from snow and ice?? It would seem like common sense to design them in a way that would shield the fan and other internal components from any form of precipitation.
They make wind guards for certain side discharge models
@@tutnod2449I have the same thought as it is raining and 33F in north Florida. Maybe a tent over the outdoor fan would have helped it not ice up. It was running a defrost mode, but we didn't know that was what it was doing. We had a power outage for 2 hours which left us at 59 indoors. I just decided to ask for 55 to keep the heat strips from coming on. They are too expensive. We can always dress warmer!
My unit is set on 68° but it's at 66° and I have a blinking +2 behind System On
Enjoying your videos, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You’re welcome!
I tried to email you but it says no one replies there.
Also maybe you could go in depth on using emergency heat in a video? What about other sources of heat like kerosene and how to do so safely if the power is out?
I wanted to ask....I switched my emergency heat off back to heat and then found out I may have hurt my coil. There is ice and snow here. How can I tell if I damaged my unit? It's new. Do I just leave it on emergency heat until the ice storm is over? It's not supposed to get above 30 degrees for many days. Is long term use of emergency heat ok? How long is too long? I just got a new unit and the compressor on the last had gone out and they told me the emergency heat on my old one had started melting parts of my old unit so it makes me afraid to leave it on that too long. They said there could have been a fire with my old unit, it was 11 years old. I went ahead and switched back to emergency heat a couple minutes later so I'm hoping I didn't do any damage 😔
Great info! One quick cold weather question if I may: When you are trouble shooting a heat pump and turning it on an off, are you just leaving the furnace in a state of "call for heat" and then using the heat pump's 'fuse block' to start and stop the unit itself, or are you turning the furnace on and off each time? OR.... are you 'jumpering' some contacts on the heat pump to fire it up just for testing?
I have always wondered what goes on with this. I am in a situation right now where I need to figure this out so that I can bypass the comp, then the fan and even check out if the contactor is acting up due to some noises I'm hearing. It seems a little silly to run in and out of the house each time. My plan was to pull the fuses, call for heat indoors and then plug the fuses in for testing and pull them back out between tests all while the furnace is still running. Does this make sense?
We have ways to make the system run to test it. Just depends on the system and the situation.
Have a three year old Grandaire package unit. When temps drop below 32deg unit will not run. When it warms above 32deg unit comes on and heat pump works per design.
Anyone got any ideas on this problem?
Your thermastat threshold may need to be adjusted
My current issue is the fan running non stop, it's making me have to replace the filter every 30 days. I know ifs probably a relay but I don't know how to fix it and I really can't afford to pay someone
Get a washable filter. You can even frame a piece of fabric batting with wire behind it (to keep the fabric from being sucked into the return). Actually, your fan being on all the time, you could just let it suck a piece of whatever fabric right to the grate! Switch with a new piece and wash the old one. I'm not a professional, lol. Just got creative with my own system to save money.
My heat pump won’t work after the temp drops below 40
You gonna catch it as soon as that power bill hits... dang electric resistance strips pull 1.21 Gigawatts...
What is the best heat pump to buy ?
Pencil what you want. I would recommend finding a good contractor and then going with what they recommend. Get multiple quotes.
Whatever brand the HVAC guys carry parts for so they can fix it right away instead of you having to wait days for parts to ship out.
Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome!
New Goodman Heat pump, Sept 18, 2023! Running smooth, cooling home fine. Checked out heat 2 days ago as we were down to 38. Heating worked fine! Back to cooling. Heat and Cooling both work great. This morning, lowered cooling to 75, Florida warming again, the outside unit has a continuous whomp whomp sound, like it is have a hard time or hesitation.
Yesterday a SS2 Safety-T-switch installed on air handler. Air return sounds fine, can not hear that unit outside at air return area. And breaker was to be changed, but something to do with our old house wiring. Waiting on electrician!
Each May have nothing to do with running noise. AC guys gonna come out and install vibration isolator.
But why? What do you think? Is the whomp whomp something you have dealt with?
Hello! Our temperature dropped in below freezing level. Like 0- 11F for the past few days and our heat pump turn off automatically so our main unit is the only one working that caused our electric bill insanely high. Now our temperature back on 40’s and it started working again. Why did it stopped working when we need it the most?😢
How old is it? The older tech does not do well in extreme low temps. The newer cold climate machines have pretty much solved this issue from what I understand.
That is what they are known to do: "when you need it most" petering out.
Older units have a jumper on the control board in the outside unit. Shut off power to it and remove the cover. If you see a wire marked on the board with options: 30, 20, 10, 0 F., move jumper to lowest setting. Newer units just keep running to assist the aux heat.
*For people with "Dual Fuel" AKA "Fossil" system, the heat pump _MUST_ shut off before the gas/oil heater takes over...otherwise it will damage the heatpump.
** If your HP is 20+ years old with low SEER rating you can drop your monthly energy bill by replacing with newer tech. I replaced a 11 SEER unit with 16 and the guy's power bill dropped by $50/month. High SEER units are drastically more expensive to purchase and therefore take longer to recoup the costs. Mid Tier systems are usually the best value. I buy and own equipment by smaller brands like ARCOAir as almost all the components for _all_ brands are "off the shelf" and there's little difference in dependability/quality. I spec these for me, fiends, family, neighbors.
***Check with your power company for rebates; they can be hundreds of dollars in savings. -tech
Emergency heat stays on and isn’t heating well. In South Carolina and had a recent drop in temperature to lower than 20 degrees. If I replace the defrost board will it make the unit defrost the ice?
Not without knowing the reason in the first place for your issue.
Just got an estimate for Champion heat pump and air handler. They say it comes with a 10 year labor warranty but I cannot find much info online about their products or warranty. Weird.
I'll need to find a good hvac person. I don't trust my defrost mode from the installers. It is a larger company, and they seemed to take the shortest/easiest route with zero pride in anything. My defrost mode kicked in and the fan shut off, but the compressor didn't. I shut the whole unit off thinking it was something wrong. When I found out about defrost mode, it was somewhat I relief, but it needs to be checked. As well as settings, that they probably didn't bother with.
Really helpful. Thank you so much for the heads-up. Sharing your expertise is very appreciated. God bless you.
Lennox heat pump furnace runs for 5 minutes and stops outside stays running
Sounds like a dual fuel system that isn't programmed correctly with lockouts.
Carrier heat pump does not go into defrost mode or engage the fan. Thermostat indicates heat pump running but fan not spinning and then system switches to strip heating after 5-10 minutes. No error messages on the Cor thermostat. Unit was working 1 day ago with evident defrost steam and fan spin (camera is on the heat pump to record activity 24/7). 4 years old & circuit board replaced 2 years ago. Refrigerant levels unknown.
I rent but the heat doesn't work when it falls below 30 degrees the unit blows out cool air in the winter time it does fine in the summer but but when winter time comes you might well be out side I try tell my landlord to get a better heating system because this on has been in for sixteen years and it needs to be replaced but he said as long it working he not going to replace it but I know it's a matter of time the units will fell instead of 7 thousand dollars he will be paying 16 thousand dollars to replace the units
My biggest issue with my heat pump whether it’s winter or summer is the constant turning on and off of the unit. AC for example. I want the house at 68 it goes up to 69.The unit comes on and brings the house back down to 68. Five minutes later the house is 69° and the heat pump comes on again. This is totally annoying at night when I’m trying to sleep and the heat pump is constantly turning on and off every 10 or 15 minutes, it’s loud. I bought one of those thick jackets that goes around the condenser which helped a little and I lifted up the compressor unit and it is sitting on rubber blocks to absorb vibrations only helped a little bit
Next time, opt for a variable speed unit. Maybe an inverter.
This sounds more like a insulation issue
Excellent, thanks!
Yep
I’m kinda of annoyed because I e had this problem 2 ‘s and they came out and thawed it out and checked it one said it might had a hole pin in it but the other guy like well he’s the owner of the AC company and didn’t do what he’d recommended so idk it’s doing it again and it’s winter time so it’s either call them again or call someone else
Heat pumps are a poor idea if you live anywhere that gets below freezing. Oh sure technology says you can do this or that but it just creates more problems and things that can go wrong.
They are quite popular in cold climates and work well if the low temperature pump is installed
@@ctskidoo judging by the endless comments here about bad experiences with heat pumps in cold climates, they appear to be an unreliable method for heating homes there.