Sold my first 1911 years ago, and after listening to my son rave about how great his Stacatto P is, I have decided to jump into the 2011 arena without spending $2500+. After watching several of your well presented and detailed videos, I'm leaning towards the MAC 9. I appreciate the time, effort and money you put into each of your videos. New sub here. 👍
I acquired my copy of this pistol on Friday, 27 December. I was prepared to pick and choose from several, but I grabbed the first one they brought out. There is zero play in the barrel lockup, either at the breech or the bushing. Also, there is very little slop in the slide-to-frame fit. The trigger is a bit heavy but that can be worked out. It feels like the lock-up on a Staccato, that I drooled all over. Two different laser bore sighters showed that the sights are spot on right out of the box. I will be putting the first round through it on Monday.
Thats great! Awesome to hear they may be improving the manufacturing and quality of these pistols. The slide to frame fit will likely loosen up a little as the cerakote wears off the frame rails but hopefully not much! Sounds like you got a nice example.
Hey, bro, just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your content. Your video on the Shadow 2 SAO conversion inspired me to convert mine as well and I couldn't be more happy with it. Thinking about picking up a Tisas now. Thanks, dude!
Great video, you now have a new subscriber, I’m going to change out the bushing on mine also, and work on getting the trigger pull lower, personally I like the short trigger due to my short fingers, I’m also interested in checking out your porting video, and checking out the Springfield prodigy video to learn more. I am very happy I bought this B9R DS I think it’s great for the price point, even if it needs a bit of work, I should be able to do it myself minus the porting, found mine for $588 online out the door, you just can’t beat the price to get into the double stack 1911 game. The poor boys 2011.
Glad you're enjoying the content! Thanks for subscribing. $588 is a good deal for this gun. Making sure that barrel bushing is tight, getting it replaced if not, and some trigger adjustments will make a big difference.
Great video! I ordered one last night for $540! It will be my first ever 1911 and I thought that would be a great entry point for me to learn on. It's encouraging to know that I can grow with this pistol without breaking the bank!
Just got mine, I think after an optic I’ll do a lighter recoil spring then maybe eventually the staccato trigger since I do notice some up and down movement
tuning the recoil spring to your ammo and replacing the trigger would make a huge difference. check that barrel bushing as well. Thnks for watching and commenting!
I am a little salty about the current prices after spending $750 on mine 😪haha. I agree. for the current prices this is an awesome place to start for a project gun or to dip ones toes into the doublestack 1911 market!
@@EngineersArmory I’ve been eyeing these for a while now. Finally snagged one today after seeing a sale email for $535 after shipping/tax. It’ll be my introduction to 2011s, but I can already tell this is going to be fun.
I know it would cost you your own money but would possibly review the girsan witness 2311 match or match x? I feel like it's something I'd love to see you tinker with
I considered that while looking at this gun and the MAC9. From what I was seeing the Girsan was even rougher than the Tisas pistols. It would have been a fine starting place, but I was seeing a lot of them even having trouble cycling properly out of the box - I didn't want to have to fix that before doing other upgrades. However the "match" models are new to me, and I would hope they have their manufacturing, QC and reliability issues figure out by now. The Girsan 2311 is very similar to this pistol. Both doublestack 9mm 1911s, 70 series internals, modular grip + frame, bushing barrels (in the case of the Match model, a bull barrel - like the MAC9), etc. All the upgrades I have done to this pistol (or the MAC9) could be done to the Girsan with similar results. They are so similar I wouldn't bother spending my money on the Girsan after doing this one and the MAC9. Next for me is the LFA Apollo 11 I think.
I think it looks much better than the factory trigger but feel wise I prefer a flat trigger. Too bad the factory trigger was too short and didn't have overtravel adjustment.
@@EngineersArmory I’m the opposite, I’m not a huge fan of flat triggers. But luckily that’s why there’s so much customization available for this platform!
PSA has this for $600 right now. Im ordering one in a couple days. I just bought a Diamondback DB15 a few days ago so need to save up a few bucks first lol. But i want a DS1911 platform for my new edc since ive gotten much more intelligence towards guns now n want to upgrade from my edc which is a $250 Stoeger STR-9 9mm. For $600 i dont think you can find a better pistol honestly. Not a glock fan, love the feel of a steel frame gun and i love guns that run quicker n smoother like high end DS1911/2011s do. Also i want to be able to air rack my gun lol
Check battlehawk armory. They usually have them for $50 less or so. Personally I wouldnt carry a 70 series 1911. No firing pin safety block. They are not drop safe. I put XP firing pin springs in all mine, but still less safe than a istol with a firing pin safety block. But of course that is a safety concern/risk that other may have different views on and can justify it to themselves.
@EngineersArmory considering my Stoeger STR-9 doesn't even have a safety im not really concerned with dropping it and having it ND. I usually carry iwb n train with the gun for awhile before I start carrying it around so I'm already comfortable n used to it. But yea I did see one I forget the website i think it was G4G that had one for $550
Maybe ill make a video, maybe not. Here are the basics to get you started: The buffer puts a slightly squishy... buffer... between the slide and recoil rod where it smacks into at the rear of the slides travel. It reduces/dissipates impact energy every time the pistol is fired. Some say they can feel it in the recoil. I have never been able to. But its nicer to the gun in my opinion. Less battering of metal parts over time. The also slightly reduce slide travel - speeding up cycling time - this is negligeable or not noticeable though - maybe important for competition shooters? I like them and I use them... in some guns. I have never had issues with them in my 1911s. I had one jam up my Beretta pretty badly by getting caught up in the spring coils. That one "floated" on the outside of the spring, the 1911 ones are capture between the spring and guide rod. Arguments against them (with my response include) - "if it didnt come with one from the factory then you dont need it" - my cz shadow 2 came with one from the factory - other pistols do as well. Pistols of the same design from the same manufacturer sometimes will have one, sometimes wont. Like my shadow 2 does - my other cz 75s dont. Not a good argument. I don't really think they are needed. Especially not with the low round counts i generally put thru my gun. But I like them. they are $2. "it can come apart and cause malfunctions." - I have ran shock buffers for longer than the life of the recoil spring and they never came apart. when you change your recoil spring... change he shock buffer too - thats common sense to me. Like i mentioned earlier, i did have one cause malfunctions - a new one. So the way they cause malfunctions in my opinion more comes down to the design of the buffer and the design of the pistol. There are maybe some rare cases where that tiny bit of reduction in slide travel distance could cause issues (they are only like .090" thick). I have never seen that. Pistols generally have a good margin of safety built into their slide travel distance for safety/reliability reasons. Hope this helps and gives you a starting point to answer the question for your use case.
Did you have any issue installing your full length guide rod with your factor recoil spring? I tried with a commander full length guide rod and the factory spring didn’t fit.
Yep factory spring was too tight on the new guide rod. Tisas not making standard recoil springs I guess. I was going to swap out the recoil spring anyways so I didn't care. I feel like I mentioned this in a previous video, sorry if i didn't, thats a key piece of information when considering the upgrades.
@@EngineersArmory thanks bro. And suggestions on an DS flat adjustable trigger? I have the Wilson combat flat trigger but forgot about the DS bow. So ninja be to get another. Currently looking at the, ECG STI High Capacity 2011 Trigger.
@@MarsDK88 The doublestack triggers you can buy should all have a bow compatible with this pistol. The ECG one should work. Other options include Atlas gunworks, Red Dirt, Fusion firearms, Fowler.
Absolutely loving this thing after picking one up for $580, new! Threw a new EPS Carry MRS on that I got for $250, did a polishing and trigger job, threw some good quality lubes in, and she tacks like a tank! Curious about that STI trigger and trigger bow you got... Where did you get it from? I see one on Dawson Precision's website...is that where you got yours? I wanna do the same to mine. Factory trigger is still miles above any striker-fired trigger, but the up-and-down wiggle and the fact that I'd like my trigger to be like a button (no pre-travel) has got me interested in doing the same swap you did 👍
Sounds like you're getting it dialed in! $580 is a sick deal! Yep, I got mine from dawson precision. It's a really nice trigger for $40 i would highly recommend it!
@@EngineersArmory Yessir! Got 500 rds of a mixture of ammos and not one issue! Money well spent, and couldn't be happier. Appreciate the confirm! Getting an order in, now 👍 Thanks for the info and vids!
This is the Wilson Combat one that dropped in: wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html That one wasn't tight enough for my liking. So i ended up replacing it with a gunsmith fit one from EGW: egwguns.com/100-gap-barrel-bushing-carry-bevel-govt-705-od-unbored-blue
Wilson combat parts: 619B, 25C, 2B. Springs from Wolff: 26221 (mainspring), 13201 (recoil tuning pack). Trigger and thumb safety from Dawson Precision (they don't list the Staccato thumb safety for online sale anymore): 519-1013. dawsonprecision.com/thumb-safety-for-1911-2011-pistols-ambidextrous-dlc-diamond-like-carbon-coating-by-staccato-2011/
Video will be coming in a few days. Porting is done, just need to get back to the range to collect my muzzle flip data after porting and some general shooting footage.
@@EngineersArmoryplease make a chechard board or graph paper back ground for filming the before vs after porting comparison. The white background you've been using does not really show the difference. Think car crash test filming. Great efficient presentations 👍
I finally shot the full size and wow it was fun. I really want a carry version but my thing is I’ll actually carry it and if o have to use it it’ll be taken away. So essentially I don’t want to spend 2500 plus on my edc and it winds up in an evidence locker or worse. Since Psa has these on sale for 600 and everything else is 1000 plus bucks I think I’ll buy the carry and get two guns for less than a prodigy and fine tune it and if I happen to use it and have to give it up it won’t be a crazy loss.
With a carry gun, if you lose it you're gonna lose it. So yeah I understand not wanting to spend $2500 for a carry gun. I think the Tisas Carry DS would be a good option. $600 is a good price for them. They are a solid platform for upgrades. You can really improve them for not a lot of money.
@@dragusdaone I wouldn't recommend a 1911 or 2011 for carry at all. No firing pin safety blocks. I don't consider them completely drop safe. I put XP firing pin springs in all mine. Still wouldn't carry one. I prefer to carry DA/SA hammer fired, with striker fired pistols a close seconds. My carry guns are a Ruger LCP MAX in .380ACP. A springfield hellcat. and a CZ P-01 (decocker only). What gun is right to carry, or best to carry will vary widely from person to person.
@@dragusdaone They don't offer one with a manual safety as far as I know. If you want a pocket 380 I would look at the new smith and wesson bodyguard. It looks better in pretty much every way haha.
hammer (main) spring weight has nothing to do with the ammo - that is more related to how heavy/light you want your trigger and how much margin you have on the primer strikes. 14# recoil spring was about right for my 115 and 124 grain range ammo. After I ported it, i dropped it down to a 13#.
@@erice4611 I pretty much run 17# in all my 1911s now regardless of my desired trigger weight. never had a light primer strike and I always run extra power firing pin springs. But a big part of that is preference. There is a give and take trade off between sear spring adjustment and hammer spring weight. I prefer heavier take ups and more positive resets so I go a little lighter on my main spring.
This video tipped me into buying a tisas. So far, I’ve done quite a few upgrades and I have a few more planned but one thing that upsets me is how loose the grip safety is. I’m trying to figure out the tang radius but it’s off center and I can’t get a definitive number. Has anyone else run into this issue or am I the only one?
Is the grip safety loose around the pin? or loose side to side in the grip module? My grip safety didn't fit the grip module well. The spring pressure on it was okay and I adjusted the engagement point.
@@EngineersArmory it’s loose left to right in the frame/grip and it’s a little bit loose on the pin. This is my biggest gripe with the gun currently. I was hoping to get a replacement from EGW but I can’t seem to find the right size.
@@Dliverance yeah mine was like that too. Seems normal to me for the price point. I have replaced my grip safety and the new one doesnt fit well either. The grip safety I got is cut for a .25" radius frame and there is a big gap. Seems like the tisas frame has a small radius where the grip safety goes.
Yes it is a thick flange one. I have also installed a wilson combat full length commander guide rod. The only difference a spring plug would make is if the end of the plug is flush with the end of the thicker bushing or not. The plug will retail the barrel rushing properly regardless.
@ Ok perfect. I’ve already swapped the Prodigy grip, which feels 10x better. So I’m about to order the full length guide rod, 12 lb recoil spring to go with my 19lb main spring, and the Shok Buff kit. Can’t wait to see how it is! Eventually I’ll do the bushing, I just need to invest in some decent calipers first.
This is the barrel bushing I bought: wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html Link copied from my reply to one of the many other comments asking this question.
@EngineersArmory idk what's up with youtube taking down my comment or something. But I ended up ordering the SHOK-BUFF RECOIL SYSTEM, COMMANDER. Is that correct if I have the Carry version?
@@EngineersArmory awsome you inspired me to build my own 2011 just instead using the 5 in. I have a bunch of nice striker fire builds, AR 15, and AR10 builds. This is my first 2011. i took on a project lol.
Commander barrel bushings are a different length than gov't so be aware of that. The one I bought was #619B. It was still too loose for my liking so I replaced it with gunsmith fit EGW bushing.
14 pound recoil spring would be about right for lighter ammo loadings. I base mainspring weight on what trigger pull weight I want. For a 2-3.5# trigger I would go with 19#. for 3.5#+ trigger weight I use 21# main spring like I did in this pistol. Dont expect to just throw in a new mainspring and have it improve or lighten the trigger that much. A new main spring should be installed with other trigger work and proper sear spring adjustment. You could make the trigger in this pistol really nice and probably sub 4# with the factory 23# main spring.
Check out my Springfield Prodigy video that I linked in the description. I cover a bit of it in that video. In the description of that video I also linked to a video from Atlas Gunworks about sear spring tuning. Tuning trigger weight on a 1911 can really be more of an artform. I know enough to be dangerous. The basics are this: The sear spring sits in the backstrap underneath the main spring housing. Its a leaf spring. It has 3 tangs or leaves. One leaf is the spring for your grip safety and doesn't affect trigger weight. The tang on the other side (left side if looking from the back of the gun towards the muzzle) rests on the sear. This pretty much sets your trigger break weight. The middle spring tang rests on the back of the disconnector. This spring sets your trigger take up weight, and how your reset feels (how much it pushes your finger back out). It also sets the upward force on the disconnector. The leaf spring in this gun was really bent forward. Both the sear and disconnector tangs. So that was what was making the take up so heavy and the break 5 pounds. Hope this helps.
Here is the page for commander length recoil springs (the reduced power tuners kit is part number 13102): www.gunsprings.com/COLT/COMMANDER+SERIES+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID2 Any other spring for the pistol will be the same as Gov't size. Springs are here: www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911+GOV'T+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1
new to 2011. if i wanted to convert this to a bull barrel, does it have the reverse plug cut from factory, i’m going off of forum post from 5-8 years ago. have mine coming in monday and just am curious for the future.
The spring plug area would need to be cut for a reverse plug. It is cur for a standard commander spring plug. I wouldn't recommend trying to convert it. Fit a nice barrel bushing and call it good. If you want a bull barrel I would recommend the MAC9 DS.
@@EngineersArmory awesome thank you for the response! Found the channel when I was picking between the B9R and the MAC. Went with the Tisas B9R for cost and it’ll be a tinker gun.
@@EngineersArmory if I want to swap the slide release to the Wilson mid extended. Do I need the “9mm” one from them or any will work? Again new to 1911/2011s and you seem to be the right person to talk with about this
@@Shanearchy Not quite sure on that one. May want to call them or shoot them an email to clarify what is different about their "9mm" slide release vs a normal one. As far as I can tell the slide stop on this is a standard 1911 slide stop, and I am not aware of a difference between 9mm and 45 (or other caliber) slide stops.
It was loose as is typical with cheap 1911s. After lapping in the slide and taking the high spots of the cerakote on the frame rails off it was more loose lol. I hate cerakote. If it didnt have a dog shit finish on the frame the tolerances wouldnt have changed enough to notice after lapping in the slide.
@@EngineersArmory Ok, my Carry just showed up. Some slop in the slide, not too much. I’ll need to disassemble to recheck the bushing fit but a cursory check and I can’t discern any movement with the barrel when the slide is home. Not sure if I’m checking that correctly.
Looks great!! I have a g.i. model id like to change the springs, beavertail and hammer, and add a 10-8 sight (for my aging eyes). Do you think the g.i. model from tisas will be more problematic than other brands due to their specs? I understand you might have no experience with those. And the question is somewhat relative to my individual sample , . But i thought you might could provide some insight. Thanks for the video that helps with inspiration and motivation.
I dont have experience with other tisas 1911s, this is my first one and my only sample. I would just check the barrel bushing fit in the slide. The GI model wont have the optics cut like mine to worry about. Other than the barrel bushing issue mine has been a solid gun. Good luck upgrading yours and happy tinkering!
Guide rod: wilsoncombat.com/guide-rod-full-length-commander.html (Factory 16# recoil spring would not fit on the wilson combat guide rod - wolff brand springs did) 6 pack of shock buffers: wilsoncombat.com/shok-buff-recoil-buffers-1911-package-of-6.html The wilson combat barrel bushing is a nice part but due to the tolerances of the slide it was still loose and I had to fit an EGW one to tighten it up. But here is a link to the Wilson barrel bushing: wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html
I suppose in a way. It can make the slide easier or harder to pull back by hand which may feel more or less smooth. It controls the speed that the slide moves back and forth, and how quick the barrel unlocks from the slide after the shot is fired. To me, smoothness of the slide is more about the fit of the slide to the frame, and how smooth the parts are that rub together.
@@dannydowell9979 Oh, no sorry, I do not. I would encorage others to give it a try. Practice on an old AR pistol grip or something. I just use a $20 wood burning kit from Amazon.
@dltz have you got a link for the kit? I love the scale style stipple job and would love to try it myself. I'd love to use the same attachment you did
@@dakotacarter4439 heres the kit I bought (amazon link): Weller WSB25WB 25-Watt Short... www.amazon.com/dp/B000EMBEY0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share It didnt come with a tip the shape I wanted for making the scale pattern so I did have to modify one of the tips with a file.
@@erice4611 No it is not necessary, I bought it because it gave me longer trigger reach and pretravel and overtravel adjustment. Reducing trigger pull weight is primarily reduced by a combination of main spring and sear spring tuning. Depending on your desired trigger weight and action only one or the other may be needed.
eh I wouldn't. The prodigy is a much nicer gun than this one out of the box and just as good of a starting place for upgrades. Similar upgrades to the prodigy would result in an overall nicer feeling gun becuase the fit and finish of the prodigy is nicer.
@@EngineersArmory hm that is true I do dig the grips on the prodigy. First 2011 so didn’t want to cheap out but also didn’t want to pay a arm and leg for one lol
@@ehenicksjust want someone else to do all the work huh? Haha dawsonprecision.com/trigger-for-sti-sv-2011-pistols-long-curved-black-polymer-by-staccato-2011/
Sold my first 1911 years ago, and after listening to my son rave about how great his Stacatto P is, I have decided to jump into the 2011 arena without spending $2500+. After watching several of your well presented and detailed videos, I'm leaning towards the MAC 9. I appreciate the time, effort and money you put into each of your videos. New sub here. 👍
That's great to hear! If my videos can provide anything I hope it's that! Thanks for watching, commenting. And subscribing!
I acquired my copy of this pistol on Friday, 27 December. I was prepared to pick and choose from several, but I grabbed the first one they brought out. There is zero play in the barrel lockup, either at the breech or the bushing. Also, there is very little slop in the slide-to-frame fit. The trigger is a bit heavy but that can be worked out. It feels like the lock-up on a Staccato, that I drooled all over.
Two different laser bore sighters showed that the sights are spot on right out of the box.
I will be putting the first round through it on Monday.
Thats great! Awesome to hear they may be improving the manufacturing and quality of these pistols. The slide to frame fit will likely loosen up a little as the cerakote wears off the frame rails but hopefully not much! Sounds like you got a nice example.
This looks like a fun project gun at a very reasonable price. Thanks for the video!
You sound like a real 1911/2011 nerd & I'm here for it. Many thanks!
Hey, bro, just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your content. Your video on the Shadow 2 SAO conversion inspired me to convert mine as well and I couldn't be more happy with it. Thinking about picking up a Tisas now. Thanks, dude!
You're most welcome! I am so glad this content is helpful to some people! It means a lot to me to hear that so thanks for sharing!
@@EngineersArmory , no problem, man! Keep up the great work!
I love these videos. Good job improving these pistols without breaking the bank.
Great video, you now have a new subscriber, I’m going to change out the bushing on mine also, and work on getting the trigger pull lower, personally I like the short trigger due to my short fingers, I’m also interested in checking out your porting video, and checking out the Springfield prodigy video to learn more.
I am very happy I bought this B9R DS I think it’s great for the price point, even if it needs a bit of work, I should be able to do it myself minus the porting, found mine for $588 online out the door, you just can’t beat the price to get into the double stack 1911 game. The poor boys 2011.
Glad you're enjoying the content! Thanks for subscribing. $588 is a good deal for this gun. Making sure that barrel bushing is tight, getting it replaced if not, and some trigger adjustments will make a big difference.
Yea I’m a fan I just got one I’m going to order these parts so I can get it running like a sewing machine, great video
Great video! I ordered one last night for $540! It will be my first ever 1911 and I thought that would be a great entry point for me to learn on. It's encouraging to know that I can grow with this pistol without breaking the bank!
I was looking at that sale and by the time I’d done my research it was too late. Luckily their standard prices isn’t actually that much more.
Narration is on point. Feels like Brass Facts
Damn someone should sponsor me. I want free ammo that shits expensive.
@dltz ammo would be the first sponsorship as that's 100% consumables
Just got mine, I think after an optic I’ll do a lighter recoil spring then maybe eventually the staccato trigger since I do notice some up and down movement
tuning the recoil spring to your ammo and replacing the trigger would make a huge difference. check that barrel bushing as well. Thnks for watching and commenting!
I'm happy with the stock version
Nice! That's good. Cheap and easy.
You don't disappoint!
Excellent video, thanks for posting. These are going as low as $580-600 nowadays, for a tinkering gun I can hardly think of anything better.
I am a little salty about the current prices after spending $750 on mine 😪haha. I agree. for the current prices this is an awesome place to start for a project gun or to dip ones toes into the doublestack 1911 market!
@@EngineersArmory I’ve been eyeing these for a while now. Finally snagged one today after seeing a sale email for $535 after shipping/tax. It’ll be my introduction to 2011s, but I can already tell this is going to be fun.
@@Resinatural640 Dang thats a screaming deal! its a great starting place for a project! enjoy!
@Resinatural640 who had that deal??
@@dragusdaonenot 100% sure who has that deal, but battle hawk armory has it for 549, if you find a discount code for them that might get you to 535
Love your stuff, said it before, I'll say it again. Keep it going!
Really nice and simple upgrades. Should be a nice shooter!
It feels so much better! The performance is great.
Nice , subbed. Thinking of Gett one
Im a tinkerer and subscribed so I can see your more complete video.
I know it would cost you your own money but would possibly review the girsan witness 2311 match or match x? I feel like it's something I'd love to see you tinker with
I considered that while looking at this gun and the MAC9. From what I was seeing the Girsan was even rougher than the Tisas pistols. It would have been a fine starting place, but I was seeing a lot of them even having trouble cycling properly out of the box - I didn't want to have to fix that before doing other upgrades. However the "match" models are new to me, and I would hope they have their manufacturing, QC and reliability issues figure out by now.
The Girsan 2311 is very similar to this pistol. Both doublestack 9mm 1911s, 70 series internals, modular grip + frame, bushing barrels (in the case of the Match model, a bull barrel - like the MAC9), etc. All the upgrades I have done to this pistol (or the MAC9) could be done to the Girsan with similar results. They are so similar I wouldn't bother spending my money on the Girsan after doing this one and the MAC9.
Next for me is the LFA Apollo 11 I think.
Honestly that curved trigger makes it look a lot nicer
I think it looks much better than the factory trigger but feel wise I prefer a flat trigger. Too bad the factory trigger was too short and didn't have overtravel adjustment.
@@EngineersArmory I’m the opposite, I’m not a huge fan of flat triggers. But luckily that’s why there’s so much customization available for this platform!
PSA has this for $600 right now. Im ordering one in a couple days. I just bought a Diamondback DB15 a few days ago so need to save up a few bucks first lol. But i want a DS1911 platform for my new edc since ive gotten much more intelligence towards guns now n want to upgrade from my edc which is a $250 Stoeger STR-9 9mm. For $600 i dont think you can find a better pistol honestly. Not a glock fan, love the feel of a steel frame gun and i love guns that run quicker n smoother like high end DS1911/2011s do. Also i want to be able to air rack my gun lol
Check battlehawk armory. They usually have them for $50 less or so.
Personally I wouldnt carry a 70 series 1911. No firing pin safety block. They are not drop safe. I put XP firing pin springs in all mine, but still less safe than a istol with a firing pin safety block. But of course that is a safety concern/risk that other may have different views on and can justify it to themselves.
@EngineersArmory considering my Stoeger STR-9 doesn't even have a safety im not really concerned with dropping it and having it ND. I usually carry iwb n train with the gun for awhile before I start carrying it around so I'm already comfortable n used to it. But yea I did see one I forget the website i think it was G4G that had one for $550
Also Battlehawk has it for $588 currently
@@the.ghost.behind.u stoeger str-9 has a firing pin safety block. Again, whatever you're comfortable carrying.
I know this is an older video. Could you do a short video on what the Shok-Buff does and why you use them?
Maybe ill make a video, maybe not. Here are the basics to get you started: The buffer puts a slightly squishy... buffer... between the slide and recoil rod where it smacks into at the rear of the slides travel. It reduces/dissipates impact energy every time the pistol is fired. Some say they can feel it in the recoil. I have never been able to. But its nicer to the gun in my opinion. Less battering of metal parts over time. The also slightly reduce slide travel - speeding up cycling time - this is negligeable or not noticeable though - maybe important for competition shooters?
I like them and I use them... in some guns. I have never had issues with them in my 1911s. I had one jam up my Beretta pretty badly by getting caught up in the spring coils. That one "floated" on the outside of the spring, the 1911 ones are capture between the spring and guide rod.
Arguments against them (with my response include) - "if it didnt come with one from the factory then you dont need it" - my cz shadow 2 came with one from the factory - other pistols do as well. Pistols of the same design from the same manufacturer sometimes will have one, sometimes wont. Like my shadow 2 does - my other cz 75s dont. Not a good argument. I don't really think they are needed. Especially not with the low round counts i generally put thru my gun. But I like them. they are $2.
"it can come apart and cause malfunctions." - I have ran shock buffers for longer than the life of the recoil spring and they never came apart. when you change your recoil spring... change he shock buffer too - thats common sense to me. Like i mentioned earlier, i did have one cause malfunctions - a new one. So the way they cause malfunctions in my opinion more comes down to the design of the buffer and the design of the pistol.
There are maybe some rare cases where that tiny bit of reduction in slide travel distance could cause issues (they are only like .090" thick). I have never seen that. Pistols generally have a good margin of safety built into their slide travel distance for safety/reliability reasons.
Hope this helps and gives you a starting point to answer the question for your use case.
@@EngineersArmory thanks for the reply and the breakdown. Appreciate it..
Did you have any issue installing your full length guide rod with your factor recoil spring? I tried with a commander full length guide rod and the factory spring didn’t fit.
Yep factory spring was too tight on the new guide rod. Tisas not making standard recoil springs I guess. I was going to swap out the recoil spring anyways so I didn't care. I feel like I mentioned this in a previous video, sorry if i didn't, thats a key piece of information when considering the upgrades.
@ I have a Wilson combat commander full length guide rod. Which spring(s) did you go with?
@@MarsDK88 Same guide rod I installed. Any standard 1911 commander length spring. I always buy from Wolff springs.
@@EngineersArmory thanks bro. And suggestions on an DS flat adjustable trigger? I have the Wilson combat flat trigger but forgot about the DS bow. So ninja be to get another. Currently looking at the, ECG STI High Capacity 2011 Trigger.
@@MarsDK88 The doublestack triggers you can buy should all have a bow compatible with this pistol. The ECG one should work. Other options include Atlas gunworks, Red Dirt, Fusion firearms, Fowler.
Absolutely loving this thing after picking one up for $580, new! Threw a new EPS Carry MRS on that I got for $250, did a polishing and trigger job, threw some good quality lubes in, and she tacks like a tank!
Curious about that STI trigger and trigger bow you got... Where did you get it from? I see one on Dawson Precision's website...is that where you got yours? I wanna do the same to mine. Factory trigger is still miles above any striker-fired trigger, but the up-and-down wiggle and the fact that I'd like my trigger to be like a button (no pre-travel) has got me interested in doing the same swap you did 👍
Sounds like you're getting it dialed in! $580 is a sick deal! Yep, I got mine from dawson precision. It's a really nice trigger for $40 i would highly recommend it!
@@EngineersArmory Yessir! Got 500 rds of a mixture of ammos and not one issue! Money well spent, and couldn't be happier. Appreciate the confirm! Getting an order in, now 👍 Thanks for the info and vids!
What’s the part number on the barrel bushing? want to get the right one please and thank you
This is the Wilson Combat one that dropped in:
wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html
That one wasn't tight enough for my liking. So i ended up replacing it with a gunsmith fit one from EGW:
egwguns.com/100-gap-barrel-bushing-carry-bevel-govt-705-od-unbored-blue
Thanks for some great videos filled with a lot of information. Do you happen to have a parts list with the part numbers that you used? Thanks
Wilson combat parts: 619B, 25C, 2B.
Springs from Wolff: 26221 (mainspring), 13201 (recoil tuning pack).
Trigger and thumb safety from Dawson Precision (they don't list the Staccato thumb safety for online sale anymore): 519-1013.
dawsonprecision.com/thumb-safety-for-1911-2011-pistols-ambidextrous-dlc-diamond-like-carbon-coating-by-staccato-2011/
Awesome, thank you
Waiting to see the ports
Video will be coming in a few days. Porting is done, just need to get back to the range to collect my muzzle flip data after porting and some general shooting footage.
@@EngineersArmoryplease make a chechard board or graph paper back ground for filming the before vs after porting comparison. The white background you've been using does not really show the difference.
Think car crash test filming.
Great efficient presentations 👍
Great video!
I finally shot the full size and wow it was fun. I really want a carry version but my thing is I’ll actually carry it and if o have to use it it’ll be taken away. So essentially I don’t want to spend 2500 plus on my edc and it winds up in an evidence locker or worse. Since Psa has these on sale for 600 and everything else is 1000 plus bucks I think I’ll buy the carry and get two guns for less than a prodigy and fine tune it and if I happen to use it and have to give it up it won’t be a crazy loss.
With a carry gun, if you lose it you're gonna lose it. So yeah I understand not wanting to spend $2500 for a carry gun. I think the Tisas Carry DS would be a good option. $600 is a good price for them. They are a solid platform for upgrades. You can really improve them for not a lot of money.
Is there another carry that you'd recommend, or is the tisas the sweet spot?
@@dragusdaone I wouldn't recommend a 1911 or 2011 for carry at all. No firing pin safety blocks. I don't consider them completely drop safe. I put XP firing pin springs in all mine. Still wouldn't carry one.
I prefer to carry DA/SA hammer fired, with striker fired pistols a close seconds. My carry guns are a Ruger LCP MAX in .380ACP. A springfield hellcat. and a CZ P-01 (decocker only).
What gun is right to carry, or best to carry will vary widely from person to person.
I've been looking at an lcp max for years. Do you use the one with the manual safety?
@@dragusdaone They don't offer one with a manual safety as far as I know. If you want a pocket 380 I would look at the new smith and wesson bodyguard. It looks better in pretty much every way haha.
Ok thank you. What recoil spring weight and hammer spring weight has worked best for you when shooting 115gr and 124grn ammo?
hammer (main) spring weight has nothing to do with the ammo - that is more related to how heavy/light you want your trigger and how much margin you have on the primer strikes.
14# recoil spring was about right for my 115 and 124 grain range ammo. After I ported it, i dropped it down to a 13#.
@@EngineersArmorywhat hammer spring weight is reliable and lighter you recommend?
@@erice4611 I pretty much run 17# in all my 1911s now regardless of my desired trigger weight. never had a light primer strike and I always run extra power firing pin springs. But a big part of that is preference. There is a give and take trade off between sear spring adjustment and hammer spring weight. I prefer heavier take ups and more positive resets so I go a little lighter on my main spring.
This video tipped me into buying a tisas. So far, I’ve done quite a few upgrades and I have a few more planned but one thing that upsets me is how loose the grip safety is. I’m trying to figure out the tang radius but it’s off center and I can’t get a definitive number. Has anyone else run into this issue or am I the only one?
Is the grip safety loose around the pin? or loose side to side in the grip module? My grip safety didn't fit the grip module well. The spring pressure on it was okay and I adjusted the engagement point.
@@EngineersArmory it’s loose left to right in the frame/grip and it’s a little bit loose on the pin. This is my biggest gripe with the gun currently. I was hoping to get a replacement from EGW but I can’t seem to find the right size.
@@Dliverance yeah mine was like that too. Seems normal to me for the price point. I have replaced my grip safety and the new one doesnt fit well either. The grip safety I got is cut for a .25" radius frame and there is a big gap. Seems like the tisas frame has a small radius where the grip safety goes.
@@EngineersArmory the stainless ones on their website say .220 radius but I’m wondering if it may be a compound radius.
So is that Wilson combat bushing the thick flange or no? The only blued one is thick, which says a different guide rod spring cap is recommended?
Yes it is a thick flange one. I have also installed a wilson combat full length commander guide rod. The only difference a spring plug would make is if the end of the plug is flush with the end of the thicker bushing or not. The plug will retail the barrel rushing properly regardless.
@ Ok perfect. I’ve already swapped the Prodigy grip, which feels 10x better. So I’m about to order the full length guide rod, 12 lb recoil spring to go with my 19lb main spring, and the Shok Buff kit. Can’t wait to see how it is! Eventually I’ll do the bushing, I just need to invest in some decent calipers first.
Very good video, could you share the link where to buy the trigger or model that you bought, thanks in advance.
dawsonprecision.com/trigger-for-sti-sv-2011-pistols-long-curved-black-polymer-by-staccato-2011/
What size is the Barrel Bushing? Is it for the Commander or Government? Is there a link to the Barrel Bushings? Thick flange?
This is the barrel bushing I bought:
wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html
Link copied from my reply to one of the many other comments asking this question.
@EngineersArmory idk what's up with youtube taking down my comment or something. But I ended up ordering the SHOK-BUFF RECOIL SYSTEM, COMMANDER. Is that correct if I have the Carry version?
@@itxbr14n Yep. the Carry version is commander length (4.25" barrel and slide).
Hey bud which barrel bushing did you get bullet proof thick flange or regular bushing from wilson. I dont see the the blue bulelt proof bushing
Thick flange. PN 619B. That didnt tighten it up in the slide enough for my liking so I ended up fitting an EGW one after.
@@EngineersArmory how bad with fitting what tools did you use
@@EngineersArmory also do you have a 5 in or 4.25 because the PN 619B was for the commander i have the 5 in
@@stephenvermiglio6414 the fitting required a lathe. It was a true gunsmith fit bushing.
@@EngineersArmory awsome you inspired me to build my own 2011 just instead using the 5 in. I have a bunch of nice striker fire builds, AR 15, and AR10 builds. This is my first 2011. i took on a project lol.
Just hit 1k no oil or cleaning out of the box, just had my first malfunction failure to feed.
Nice! Yeah mine has been running good. I have given it more cleaning and lube tho haha.
@dltz I think I'll go until it stops working, or 1500 rounds, whichever happens first.
@@sarkardarkstar haha give It the old torture test! Ah that's not too bad tho.
The standard Wilson bushing part 29B ?
Commander barrel bushings are a different length than gov't so be aware of that. The one I bought was #619B. It was still too loose for my liking so I replaced it with gunsmith fit EGW bushing.
Would atlas 19lb main spring and 14lb recoil spring be to light?
14 pound recoil spring would be about right for lighter ammo loadings. I base mainspring weight on what trigger pull weight I want. For a 2-3.5# trigger I would go with 19#. for 3.5#+ trigger weight I use 21# main spring like I did in this pistol.
Dont expect to just throw in a new mainspring and have it improve or lighten the trigger that much. A new main spring should be installed with other trigger work and proper sear spring adjustment. You could make the trigger in this pistol really nice and probably sub 4# with the factory 23# main spring.
I'm running a 12# rec spring and 18# main spring on mine and it runs so smooth.
@@DesertTactical sounds like a good spring setup!
I noticed with some ammo the gun with eject the shells directly into my eyes. Is this because of the recoil spring being too heavy?
Could be that. Likely poor extractor tuning too.
Do u have a video on how to adjust the trigger weight on the 1911?
Check out my Springfield Prodigy video that I linked in the description. I cover a bit of it in that video. In the description of that video I also linked to a video from Atlas Gunworks about sear spring tuning.
Tuning trigger weight on a 1911 can really be more of an artform.
I know enough to be dangerous. The basics are this:
The sear spring sits in the backstrap underneath the main spring housing. Its a leaf spring. It has 3 tangs or leaves. One leaf is the spring for your grip safety and doesn't affect trigger weight.
The tang on the other side (left side if looking from the back of the gun towards the muzzle) rests on the sear. This pretty much sets your trigger break weight.
The middle spring tang rests on the back of the disconnector. This spring sets your trigger take up weight, and how your reset feels (how much it pushes your finger back out). It also sets the upward force on the disconnector.
The leaf spring in this gun was really bent forward. Both the sear and disconnector tangs. So that was what was making the take up so heavy and the break 5 pounds.
Hope this helps.
Can you post a link to the spring tuner kit. I am trying to locate it on Wolff website
Here is the page for commander length recoil springs (the reduced power tuners kit is part number 13102):
www.gunsprings.com/COLT/COMMANDER+SERIES+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID2
Any other spring for the pistol will be the same as Gov't size. Springs are here:
www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911+GOV'T+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1
new to 2011. if i wanted to convert this to a bull barrel, does it have the reverse plug cut from factory, i’m going off of forum post from 5-8 years ago. have mine coming in monday and just am curious for the future.
The spring plug area would need to be cut for a reverse plug. It is cur for a standard commander spring plug. I wouldn't recommend trying to convert it. Fit a nice barrel bushing and call it good. If you want a bull barrel I would recommend the MAC9 DS.
@@EngineersArmory awesome thank you for the response! Found the channel when I was picking between the B9R and the MAC. Went with the Tisas B9R for cost and it’ll be a tinker gun.
@@Shanearchy yeah no problem! I think the tisas is the better value right now.
@@EngineersArmory if I want to swap the slide release to the Wilson mid extended. Do I need the “9mm” one from them or any will work? Again new to 1911/2011s and you seem to be the right person to talk with about this
@@Shanearchy Not quite sure on that one. May want to call them or shoot them an email to clarify what is different about their "9mm" slide release vs a normal one. As far as I can tell the slide stop on this is a standard 1911 slide stop, and I am not aware of a difference between 9mm and 45 (or other caliber) slide stops.
Good stuff rock on!
Where did u purchase all of ur parts from. Mainly the trigger? I cant find one on staccatos website
Dawson precision.
@ thanks much!
You didn’t mention the slide fit in this video. How is it and did it change when you removed the coating?
It was loose as is typical with cheap 1911s. After lapping in the slide and taking the high spots of the cerakote on the frame rails off it was more loose lol. I hate cerakote. If it didnt have a dog shit finish on the frame the tolerances wouldnt have changed enough to notice after lapping in the slide.
@@EngineersArmory Do you feel the slide fit impacts the accuracy or is that more to do with the bushing fit?
@@swooshdave more the bushing fit in the slide, and barrel in the bushing and the fit of the barrel hood (chamber area) in the slide.
@@EngineersArmory Ok, my Carry just showed up. Some slop in the slide, not too much. I’ll need to disassemble to recheck the bushing fit but a cursory check and I can’t discern any movement with the barrel when the slide is home. Not sure if I’m checking that correctly.
Looks great!! I have a g.i. model id like to change the springs, beavertail and hammer, and add a 10-8 sight (for my aging eyes). Do you think the g.i. model from tisas will be more problematic than other brands due to their specs? I understand you might have no experience with those. And the question is somewhat relative to my individual sample , . But i thought you might could provide some insight. Thanks for the video that helps with inspiration and motivation.
I dont have experience with other tisas 1911s, this is my first one and my only sample. I would just check the barrel bushing fit in the slide. The GI model wont have the optics cut like mine to worry about. Other than the barrel bushing issue mine has been a solid gun. Good luck upgrading yours and happy tinkering!
@@EngineersArmory thanks for the reply!! I hope if I decide to do it, mine turns out as well as yours!!
what company holster you used for that pistol ?
I ended up using it with a Blackhawk Omnivore and Streamlight TLR-1. I 3D printed my own adapter to mount the TLR-1 to it.
Do you have a list of part number used from Wilson combat?
Guide rod:
wilsoncombat.com/guide-rod-full-length-commander.html
(Factory 16# recoil spring would not fit on the wilson combat guide rod - wolff brand springs did)
6 pack of shock buffers:
wilsoncombat.com/shok-buff-recoil-buffers-1911-package-of-6.html
The wilson combat barrel bushing is a nice part but due to the tolerances of the slide it was still loose and I had to fit an EGW one to tighten it up. But here is a link to the Wilson barrel bushing:
wilsoncombat.com/bushing-1911-barrel-commander-thick-flange-bullet-proof-blue.html
Is the recoil spring the one that controls how smooth the slide functions?
I suppose in a way. It can make the slide easier or harder to pull back by hand which may feel more or less smooth. It controls the speed that the slide moves back and forth, and how quick the barrel unlocks from the slide after the shot is fired. To me, smoothness of the slide is more about the fit of the slide to the frame, and how smooth the parts are that rub together.
@@EngineersArmory so getting the internals polished may help?
@@StayBusy88 yep. Polishing the interface between any parts that slide or pivot past eachother will make it feel smoother.
Really well made video, just sub'd
Thanks I appreciate it!
Do you have a links for the parts you bought to swap out?
Check the comments section. I've answered this multiple times and listed part numbers with links.
Where did you get the staccato thumb safety
The dawson precision website. It's no longer listed on their site for online sale for some reason. It says you can call them to order though.
@ thank you
Great work on that pistol. Do you do stipple job on others pistols?
Thanks! I have stippled a lot of my own polymer frame pistols. I stipple my AK and AK grips too usually.
@@EngineersArmory do you stipple for others?
@@dannydowell9979 Oh, no sorry, I do not. I would encorage others to give it a try. Practice on an old AR pistol grip or something. I just use a $20 wood burning kit from Amazon.
@dltz have you got a link for the kit? I love the scale style stipple job and would love to try it myself. I'd love to use the same attachment you did
@@dakotacarter4439 heres the kit I bought (amazon link):
Weller WSB25WB 25-Watt Short... www.amazon.com/dp/B000EMBEY0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It didnt come with a tip the shape I wanted for making the scale pattern so I did have to modify one of the tips with a file.
Wich product don you use for black again?
Caswell stainless steel blackening gel:
caswellplating.com/stainless-steel-blackener-gel-kit.html
Could I get the links to all of the parts?
Dig thru the comments. I've responded to this request multiple times.
Did u buy the staccato short or long trigger at dawson precision?
The long one. I have large sized hands. Just about the right length for me.
@@EngineersArmory is the staccato trigger necessary to lighten up the trigger pull weight or just replace the hammer spring?
@@erice4611 No it is not necessary, I bought it because it gave me longer trigger reach and pretravel and overtravel adjustment. Reducing trigger pull weight is primarily reduced by a combination of main spring and sear spring tuning. Depending on your desired trigger weight and action only one or the other may be needed.
What are the mag extensions?
Those are factory 20 round Staccato mags.
Thanks. I just bought gun had to send back due to trigger was locking.
After seeing this video I kinda regret going the prodigy route now
eh I wouldn't. The prodigy is a much nicer gun than this one out of the box and just as good of a starting place for upgrades. Similar upgrades to the prodigy would result in an overall nicer feeling gun becuase the fit and finish of the prodigy is nicer.
@@EngineersArmory hm that is true I do dig the grips on the prodigy. First 2011 so didn’t want to cheap out but also didn’t want to pay a arm and leg for one lol
I just removed my deposit on a prodigy to get this. .hoping I made the right choice
What mag base's are those?
Those are factory Staccato 20 round mags.
535.00 a BattleHawk last week....
Yeah. Sick deal. I should have waited a few months but I was excited to try one out.
You can still find them mid 500s with a Google search
What trigger is that?
01:33, 03:07, 04:20.
@ do you have the link to order?
@@ehenicksjust want someone else to do all the work huh? Haha
dawsonprecision.com/trigger-for-sti-sv-2011-pistols-long-curved-black-polymer-by-staccato-2011/
Please stop chewing your nails cause it looks painful just looking at your hands bro. Nice job on the Tisas.
Yikes!, it does look painful, I also tend to use my nails a lot when working on things.
Eeshhh...
Kid with hands like this use to smell like spit in school
It doesn’t hurt after awhile but I don’t get sick anymore! Knock on wood¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Its really hard to stop. Ive tried a billion times
You have no idea what you are talking about
Oh I have "know" idea?? 😂 hell yeah brother tell me about it!
@@EngineersArmory damn auto type lol
@@danmatthews5364 Know... You're right... I dont no what I'm talking about. I don't no nothing boss. I just work here.
@@EngineersArmory correct. You do as you are told.
@@EngineersArmory you are bad at what you do.
How did you swap out your grips??
I didn't. I just stippled the grip that came on the gun.