Cool design couple of things you could do. in the middle of the boards you could cut them in half put a door hinge. That way you could fold it and pack it. If you want lift assistance up the ramp you could put a boat trailer hand winch on the other side .it could also save your shins when taking down the boat.
Question: why wheels? Wouldn’t the kayak slide up just as easily on plastic strips or even PVC pipe mounted to the wood? I like the idea but those wheels are pricey imho.
Normally I trailer my kayaks but when I haul my camper I have to fight my PA's weight up to a rack over my cab and box and man it sucks. I've been thinking about a pully system from a tree or something. I love this idea and I will probably try something similar. One thing I noticed is how much flex and bounce your 2x4's have. I bet if you ripped one 2x4 in half and attached underneath it forming a T, it would reduce that dramatically. I'd probably glue and screw it. As for wheels vs pvc... I think less resistance of pvc might be easier to push it up but the wheels create little pauses that might help your body in standing up and pushing vs a constant equal force wanting to follow gravity down. Also about pvc... I'm not sure where you are located but for me here in Nebraska I've been using pvc on my kayak trailers since 2014 and out of out of 10 pieces none have gone bad from the cold or uv damage yet. We had 36 below temperatures last winter. Where I see the biggest issue with pvc is dirt from your hull of your kayak will embed into the pvc or vice versa and that causes friction and wearing on both surfaces. You can cover pvc with outdoor carpet glued to the surface that contacts your kayak but I've seen sand embed in that as well if you don't pressure wash regularly. Carpet does help reduce friction though. All in all you made a very useful tool that I sure haven't considered yet so thank you for the video!
I built a duck blind for a boat a few years back out of PVC and it started cracking and breaking on the first duck hunt. Maybe I had a bad batch but I've stayed away from it ever since. I figured I'd need to run a piece of alluminum up the backside of the 2x4's once they dried out for extra support. That's the plan anyways. Whatever works for you - do it!
For lowering the kayak. Have you thought of using a hand winch on the other side to pull up and release as well. Im sure you can attach it to a board and attach that board onto your roof racks other end to pull it up & let down along with your system.
I actually sold the kayak since then because I couldn’t stand to sit in one spot for hours at a time. I have busted discs and they really inflamed to the point of the kayak not being enjoyable.
I did some more research into this idea, and for some reason remembered the old Shingle elevators to getting shingle bundle to the roof top. I now think I could use your idea with some of the DIY shingle elevators I have seen and make a self contained portable electric unit that could easily, cheaply, and light weight move a small boat to the top top of a vehicle(pretty sure it would be under $100 and require no special tool). Basically all you would need are 2 pole with a pulley attached to a board on top of the poles. Then a saddle to hold the boat between the poles and a small winch on the bottom to pull the boat up(or a crank arm on the side to do it manually).
How do you transport the pair of 10' 2x4's to the launch site? Assuming on the roof rack? What if someone decides they like these while you are out on the water?
Very nice, had you thought about putting your ramps on the back of your car, closer together ,and pushing the boat up nose/tail first? I have the same boat but mine needs to get to the roof of the shell on my truck.
Nice design. (On an unrelated note, I suggest you replace the scupper cart. Eventually, it is going to crack the scupper holes, even though they are reinforced.)
Thank you Steve. I’ll only have this kayak for another 12 months and then it will be sold - for the 2022 model. Once that warranty goes, time to let it ride. These kayaks are too expensive to not have a warranty.
Very clever idea. You could turn the 4x2 onto their edges, as they are a lot stronger that way, and cut a bevel on each end.
Do whatever is best for you buddy. That’s awesome.
Cool design couple of things you could do. in the middle of the boards you could cut them in half put a door hinge. That way you could fold it and pack it. If you want lift assistance up the ramp you could put a boat trailer hand winch on the other side .it could also save your shins when taking down the boat.
Thank you for the advice. I hope someone else sees this that is contemplating building this setup. Great ideas.
I've done similar but used cotter pins for folding. I've seen others use hinges and wing nuts.
Congratulations on the innovative solution, Eric.
Thank you, Milton!
PVC pipe and elec. winch with little LiFePo4 battery works great too, no lifting involved.
Electric winch would be really nice.
@@ericwilliamsfishing Your idea works great though, well thought out. I've seen the winch and PVC used with a PA 14, pretty slick.
@@db9818 that winch would be the ticket for sure. Haha.
Question: why wheels? Wouldn’t the kayak slide up just as easily on plastic strips or even PVC pipe mounted to the wood? I like the idea but those wheels are pricey imho.
Less surface tension on the wheels than straight on planks. PVC doesn’t hold up in the winter months for me.
Normally I trailer my kayaks but when I haul my camper I have to fight my PA's weight up to a rack over my cab and box and man it sucks. I've been thinking about a pully system from a tree or something. I love this idea and I will probably try something similar.
One thing I noticed is how much flex and bounce your 2x4's have. I bet if you ripped one 2x4 in half and attached underneath it forming a T, it would reduce that dramatically. I'd probably glue and screw it. As for wheels vs pvc... I think less resistance of pvc might be easier to push it up but the wheels create little pauses that might help your body in standing up and pushing vs a constant equal force wanting to follow gravity down.
Also about pvc... I'm not sure where you are located but for me here in Nebraska I've been using pvc on my kayak trailers since 2014 and out of out of 10 pieces none have gone bad from the cold or uv damage yet. We had 36 below temperatures last winter. Where I see the biggest issue with pvc is dirt from your hull of your kayak will embed into the pvc or vice versa and that causes friction and wearing on both surfaces. You can cover pvc with outdoor carpet glued to the surface that contacts your kayak but I've seen sand embed in that as well if you don't pressure wash regularly. Carpet does help reduce friction though.
All in all you made a very useful tool that I sure haven't considered yet so thank you for the video!
I built a duck blind for a boat a few years back out of PVC and it started cracking and breaking on the first duck hunt. Maybe I had a bad batch but I've stayed away from it ever since. I figured I'd need to run a piece of alluminum up the backside of the 2x4's once they dried out for extra support. That's the plan anyways. Whatever works for you - do it!
Good idea but what about 2x4’s on edge with ski wax added?
That might work too. I’m not sure.
For lowering the kayak. Have you thought of using a hand winch on the other side to pull up and release as well. Im sure you can attach it to a board and attach that board onto your roof racks other end to pull it up & let down along with your system.
I actually sold the kayak since then because I couldn’t stand to sit in one spot for hours at a time. I have busted discs and they really inflamed to the point of the kayak not being enjoyable.
@@ericwilliamsfishing - Ahh ok. Thats unfortunate to hear about your back. Hopefully it maintains its health.
I did some more research into this idea, and for some reason remembered the old Shingle elevators to getting shingle bundle to the roof top. I now think I could use your idea with some of the DIY shingle elevators I have seen and make a self contained portable electric unit that could easily, cheaply, and light weight move a small boat to the top top of a vehicle(pretty sure it would be under $100 and require no special tool). Basically all you would need are 2 pole with a pulley attached to a board on top of the poles. Then a saddle to hold the boat between the poles and a small winch on the bottom to pull the boat up(or a crank arm on the side to do it manually).
Having the electric compatibility would make it super simple. I like it.
Hey very kool, I moved from Jax,NC to Leland, to Jax fl. Lots of kayaking here! Love your ideas!
Welcome to the area buddy and thanks for checking out my stuff.
@busyascanbe are you still in Jax?
Fl
Yep sure am
What is on the stern of the kayak? Looks like a block to tip the kayak up for loading. It sits right where the rudder is.
It’s to protect the rudder system from hitting the ground. Kind of a poor design to be honest.
How do you transport the pair of 10' 2x4's to the launch site? Assuming on the roof rack? What if someone decides they like these while you are out on the water?
I chain them to the top of the car when I’m out on the yak and strap them down for transport. No issues so far.
Do you secure the loaders on top when going on a trip?
Yes sir. Just strap them to the factory racks.
Very nice, had you thought about putting your ramps on the back of your car, closer together ,and pushing the boat up nose/tail first? I have the same boat but mine needs to get to the roof of the shell on my truck.
I don’t have a way to do that without scratching up the paint. This Malone rack works really well to keep the car from taking any damage at all.
Related question - what types of wheels did you use for the cart?
They were just plastic caster wheels from Lowes.
@@ericwilliamsfishingI'm sorry I wasn't clear.. I meant the large inflatable wheels for your PVC kayak wheel cart.
WOW, but after that... do you also have to load the two wooden planks with the 38 wheels on the roof?! Nice!!🤐
I did. Slid them on the racks with bunjees.
Awesome I never thought about this technique thanks for sharing buddy
I appreciate the comments Gene.
What size are the caster wheels?
I think they were 2 inch. It’s been a while.
Thank You for the quick response. I will be making an assist in the next week or so. and will share the result. Thank You for sharing your design.
Nice design. (On an unrelated note, I suggest you replace the scupper cart. Eventually, it is going to crack the scupper holes, even though they are reinforced.)
Thank you Steve. I’ll only have this kayak for another 12 months and then it will be sold - for the 2022 model. Once that warranty goes, time to let it ride. These kayaks are too expensive to not have a warranty.
@@ericwilliamsfishing my 2018 Outback cracked after 3 months, using the scupper cart. I switched to a c-tug and love it.
@@andrearuffino that’s good to know. I’m surprised to hear that it happened so quickly.
@@ericwilliamsfishing It is a heavy boat, and a few bounces over rough ground would have been enough to do it.
thats actually very smart thanks!!!
Good luck!
Put a large door hinge in the middle on under side of board and be able to fold up when not in use
That’s a great idea.
Well thought out!
Thanks Stac!
Love your helper! 🍫🤎🐾
Me too! Thank you!
why not just use the strap method and load it 1 end at a time?
Whatever works best for you buddy.
Awesome job
Thank you buddy.
Brilliant!!
Thank you, buddy!
Taking apart harbor freight dolly carts for their wheels would make this cheaper I think.
That’s a good idea.
I just throw mine over my head and throw it on there roof of my car lol but that's super smart sir
I tried that with my last kayak and about blew a disc out. Haha.
i think im strong but getting a 100 lb kayak on top can challenge me
It’s just not worth hurting yourself.
Molorik ! Everything ingenious is simple .Russia is watching..
Happy to have you buddy. Thanks for the comment.