Well worth the time watching these videos. I learned something! And that’s always good, no matter what you know, or think you know, learning is fundamental to moving forward! Great vid.
A suggestion - summarize the comment/question from the audience before replying. For instance, there was a comment about a Calder suggestion and you replied that while you did it, it was extreme/obsessive and probably nobody else would do it. Be nice to know what you were referring to. Otherwise, love the videos. Working my way though them.
I agree with James Bennett on this. I am left wondering what the questions were. Furthermore, i am intrigued to know why you have re-wired your own boat 5 times? Didn't hear the question so context is missing.. Specifics are welcome in the response :)
Totally agree with this suggestions. based on your feedback we've learnt to summarize questions before answering now. Check out the new series for our new presentation approach.
If you don’t have time to watch the whole series which I highly recommend then at least watch the video segment on fusing 44:15 Such a great series. So much info and would save your life. Thank you for sharing this. Great tutor.
Jeff, I really appreciate that you put so much content online. Your presentation style is great, and I'm learning a LOT watching your videos. Excellent work!
Love the videos! Will definitely have to watch the 3 others tomorrow. It would've been a lot easier in some places if there was subtitles of the questions of if the questions were repeated since we can't hear them in the video
Thank you Jeff for such an amazing presentation, I have learned so much. I got out of sailing a couple years ago when I sold my Hunter 30, but picked up a 1980 Edel 665 in a field for very little. I don't need much in the way of electrical on updating her, but I really didn't have a clue about electrical. Thanks to you, I feel competent in dealing with the electrical on my little fixer upper.
Great videos, thanks. We can't hear the participants questions. Would be good if you could repeat the question for the viewers or flash it up in text in the video.
Love the videos, I like the rewiring your boat 5 times. Would love to see a Electrical audit on it. :P Bought a 1967 Hatteras in 2017, updates and upgrades in the 1st wave. In theory wave one is more or less in place, but already redoing some of it going forward.
Oh yes we do make voltage drop calculations on land as you might not provide enough cable to allow a heating circuit to work properly without the right size of conductor.
Hi Andrew, your totally right. Unfortunately cannot count the thousands of times where boaters are just choosing a wire based on the amp rating of the load. At 12 or 24 VDC, most often then not, the limiting factor in selecting a wire is voltage drop and NOT amps.
Thanks for the six lectures. They are very clear and instructive. There is something that is unclear to me, though, due to the complexity of the subject. The person in tghe video says (17.26-17.33) "If you have a decrease in voltage (voltage drop) you'll have an equal increase in current". I understood the mechanism on which this statment is based. That is: if you have a voltage drop caused by an undue resistance on the circuit, the corrent will encrease in order to offset that voltage drop. I have a doubt, though. My aritmetics tells me that I = V divided by R. This means exactly the opposite. Maybe I didn't get something right, but I interpret the formula this way: decreasing the voltage the current will decrease as well. That said, I am trying hard to correct this contraddiction. The first hypothesis I made is that when the voltage drops, the battery "realises" that the potenzial dropped and reacts producing more current. Probably this hypothesis is wrong. Can someone give me a hint to overcome this doubt? Thank you all. Fair winds! M
I was wondering the same, I thought in the beginning he stated that voltage and current decrease together but he stated repeatedly after that that current and voltage are inversely proportionate, im assuming we missed something.
Yeah wondering the same thing myself. Hope somebody could clarify this. But i think its this: if an appliance resistance increases..it causes more voltage that is "lost" on that appliance (due to higher resistance) in effect causing an overall voltage drop that is effectively on that appliance. And when the voltage drops and the appliance still uses the same amount of watts, it draws higher current from the battery. Not entirely sure though. Just beginning to learn this as well.
He is referring to appliances that are rotating equipment. In this case, the appliance tries to produce the stated wattage. So if voltage drops due to a drop on a high resistance connection, then the appliance tries to draw more current. In the case where the load is resistive, like a light bulb or a heater, then lower voltage across the load results in lower current. This will result in lower power (watt) output or dim lights. He should have differentiated between the two types of loads.
@@PacificYachtSystems You charge them in series as it's like one battery and doesn't take as long, as if your charge them in parallel both would take the drain on the charger i.e split it and take longer to charge. However using them in parallel might not give you the power of a series connection, but the charge will last longer and the more amps are available.
Congrats! Very very good, simple and precise explanations. Question: could we consider that each time the diameter of the wire changes we need to put a fuse to protect the new wiring at a smaller diameter? Thx
i have a switch panel with 6 switches mounted on my 16foot tracker grizzly boat, a 24group DC 12v just for these low voltage electronics, a negative ground terminal, and a marine on/off battery cut off switch . The switch panel has a negative and positive wire, and each switch only has a male pin for accessories. I wired my positive cable that comes off the switch panel to a 10 awg wire that leads through the ON/OFF switch and into the positive terminal on battery, I then ran my negative wire into the negative bus bar terminal i have. My Green/Red bow lights only have negative and positive cable, so i ran the negative to the negative bus bar terminal and the positive into the back of one of the switches. Were at in this build should i have fuses? Can i just have one 15amp fuse in between the battery positive terminal and cut off switch? should i do that and also add inline fuses to each individual wire i run into the back of my switch panel? do i need both?
It would be good to consolidate these videos into a non-repetitive series. Good info, but keep it straight and to the point. Pictures of good and bad work.
Great seminar!, somehow hard to follow for someone like me, with very basic acknowledge on the matter. I got a thousand questions but but want to ask you just one for now (lol), does the appliance, wire grade and fuse amp go together? You were explaining and said "if you have a 15 amp fuse, the wire running to it should be not smaller than 14 grade", is that because in an event of something going wrong, the insulation on the wire will melt before the fuse shorts open? If the answer is yes, then the wire could be bigger than 14 grade? Thank you!
Hi Mach truck, good question. You can definitely combiner circuit protection (i.e. fusing) for both the wire and the appliance. Or you can protect the wire with one circuit protection and closer to the appliance have another fuse to protect the appliance.
@ 28:31 it's said you can't connect different gauge wires other than with a terminal strip. But didn't mention anything about soldering the two different wires. Any implications with soldering terminals?
Good question, in a vibration prone environment like a boat, recommend use make mechanical connections first and then solder if you feel it's necessary. Most boat builders don't solder any connection but instead use connectors for connections.
@@PacificYachtSystems man, thanks for replying.. I would never thought you would! I'm for part 5 of this seminar and is great! My question was about only soldering the terminals with no mecanical coneccion! "I did achive the impossible" and you would roll your eyes, Lol. I connected a 12awg to a 16awg wire that goes to an aerator pum distancing 10 inches from coneccion. I didn't want to use a mecanical (metal buts) coneccion because it will add more bulk in the wire and so in the heat shrink for final appearance. Thus, I took 12awg wire and tinned the end in the shape of a female receiver (all strands arranged in a circular form with a hole in the center), then 16awg was tinned as well and inserted on 12awg *(receiver); with a crimper, those nice ones for terminal offshore fishing tackle, I crimped (compressed) the connection and proceeded to solder all together. Applied marine heat shrink and the result was beatiful! Now, I'm not sure how much resistance would be at this joints (positive and negative)? This is for a kayak, and pump at most would be 3 feet from battery! Tell me what do you think?
hahahahaaa ive built my boat from the start to 24v :))) my dad talked a lot about how much more effective 24v is compared to 12v and now that i have a 24v system i see how right he was as im a full time live abord boater in the uk.
Series connections increase the battery voltage, for instance two golf cart batteries at 6 volts, wired in series to make a 12 volt battery. With parallel, the voltage stays the same, and the amp-hours doubles.
Good and instructive presentation but I disagree about the explanation of 220V versus 110V. At the beginning all European countries used 110V but France started in 1965 to use 220V as it was cheaper to produce and demand was growing fast (you can keep the same wires to carry 2x more energy). Then other countries followed to benefit interconnections and enlarge the electricity market inside the european area. Concerning 50Hz versus 60Hz, that's another story :-)
@@stephenburnage7687 yes and no. UK adopted 240v far before Europe but to replace DC current. Continental Europe deployed electricity later than UK and followed Tesla’s recommendations with AC 220v. Then 230v was chosen in 90’ to content both UK and Europe.
@elzariantlp4594 I had not appreciated that the UK shifted from a 240V to a 230V (nominal) standard in the 90's. Presumably, however, this is still subject to a power quality regulation (that allows the utility to deliver +/- (something like) 5% on that figure)?
Why you suggest 24 or 32 V, but not 48 V. I haven't seen standard 32 V batteries, but 48 V. Additionally, I saw some boat builder who go on 48 V. If you increase the voltage, why in so small step?
@@AMentorway4u The cost should be lower with 48V system because the cable can have a smaller dimension. The difference in the batteries is just how you connect 2 batteries.
@@AMentorway4u I can under when you stay with 12 V because a lot of appliances can be run directly on 12V, but if you choose a higher voltage, you should go for 48V because you reduce the dimension of the cables considerably.
25 Watts out of your VHF FM Transmitter isn't the same as 25 Watts DC. ERP is effective radiated power. Could also be RF carrier power. 25 watts de votre émetteur FM VHF n'est pas la même chose que 25 watts CC. ERP est la puissance rayonnée effective. Pourrait également être la puissance de la porteuse RF.
A bit repetitive and redundant especially about how terrible everyone elses work is but i guess its structured information besides not being able too hear the audiences questions.
I think the point with that redundancy is to make sure we are not complacent. Take the time, do the job right, be safe for yourself and more importantly your passengers and crew.
You are such a good lecturer!
Explained so well and easy to understand
almost halfway through and i understand electircal 10x more than i did before. this guy is a psycho and i love it.
I'm the psycho you are referring too... tks for the feedback.
Well worth the time watching these videos. I learned something! And that’s always good, no matter what you know, or think you know, learning is fundamental to moving forward! Great vid.
I've been watching your channel (lol while at work) all day, thank you for putting the effort into this. Greatly appreciated.
Glad you enjoy it!
thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world, greetings from the Netherlands
A suggestion - summarize the comment/question from the audience before replying. For instance, there was a comment about a Calder suggestion and you replied that while you did it, it was extreme/obsessive and probably nobody else would do it. Be nice to know what you were referring to. Otherwise, love the videos. Working my way though them.
I agree with James Bennett on this. I am left wondering what the questions were. Furthermore, i am intrigued to know why you have re-wired your own boat 5 times? Didn't hear the question so context is missing..
Specifics are welcome in the response :)
Totally agree with this suggestions. based on your feedback we've learnt to summarize questions before answering now. Check out the new series for our new presentation approach.
If you don’t have time to watch the whole series which I highly recommend then at least watch the video segment on fusing 44:15 Such a great series. So much info and would save your life. Thank you for sharing this. Great tutor.
Jeff, I really appreciate that you put so much content online. Your presentation style is great, and I'm learning a LOT watching your videos. Excellent work!
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to know that all the hard work preparing for those presentations is worthwhile.
@@PacificYachtSystems P
Absolutely agree. Haven’t found anything near as helpful and complete.
Love the videos! Will definitely have to watch the 3 others tomorrow. It would've been a lot easier in some places if there was subtitles of the questions of if the questions were repeated since we can't hear them in the video
Thank you Jeff for such an amazing presentation, I have learned so much. I got out of sailing a couple years ago when I sold my Hunter 30, but picked up a 1980 Edel 665 in a field for very little. I don't need much in the way of electrical on updating her, but I really didn't have a clue about electrical. Thanks to you, I feel competent in dealing with the electrical on my little fixer upper.
Thanks for sharing Larry, glad our content resonated with you.
Thank You for the valuable tips that just could save some lives out there one day.
11
Safety is definitely something that drives me to create this content.
great job man...excellent knowledge while in quarantine...Athens - Greece
Hi Giannis, thanks for the feedback and glad you find the content interesting.
Great videos, thanks. We can't hear the participants questions. Would be good if you could repeat the question for the viewers or flash it up in text in the video.
Love the videos, I like the rewiring your boat 5 times. Would love to see a Electrical audit on it. :P Bought a 1967 Hatteras in 2017, updates and upgrades in the 1st wave. In theory wave one is more or less in place, but already redoing some of it going forward.
Thanks John, your post got me smiling. As i learnt along the way, with boats it's always a journey.
No, eu selected 220 because copper was expensive.
Thanks for sharing Liviu2004!
24:00 important note about differences between land and boat electrician obstacle. 41:00 AC DC current
Great info, trying to install wiring and electrical systems on my 19 foot cuddy rebuild. i think i will finish this seminar first tho
Oh yes we do make voltage drop calculations on land as you might not provide enough cable to allow a heating circuit to work properly without the right size of conductor.
Hi Andrew, your totally right. Unfortunately cannot count the thousands of times where boaters are just choosing a wire based on the amp rating of the load. At 12 or 24 VDC, most often then not, the limiting factor in selecting a wire is voltage drop and NOT amps.
Thanks for the six lectures. They are very clear and instructive. There is something that is unclear to me, though, due to the complexity of the subject. The person in tghe video says (17.26-17.33) "If you have a decrease in voltage (voltage drop) you'll have an equal increase in current". I understood the mechanism on which this statment is based. That is: if you have a voltage drop caused by an undue resistance on the circuit, the corrent will encrease in order to offset that voltage drop. I have a doubt, though. My aritmetics tells me that I = V divided by R. This means exactly the opposite. Maybe I didn't get something right, but I interpret the formula this way: decreasing the voltage the current will decrease as well. That said, I am trying hard to correct this contraddiction. The first hypothesis I made is that when the voltage drops, the battery "realises" that the potenzial dropped and reacts producing more current. Probably this hypothesis is wrong. Can someone give me a hint to overcome this doubt? Thank you all. Fair winds! M
I was wondering the same, I thought in the beginning he stated that voltage and current decrease together but he stated repeatedly after that that current and voltage are inversely proportionate, im assuming we missed something.
Yeah wondering the same thing myself. Hope somebody could clarify this.
But i think its this: if an appliance resistance increases..it causes more voltage that is "lost" on that appliance (due to higher resistance) in effect causing an overall voltage drop that is effectively on that appliance. And when the voltage drops and the appliance still uses the same amount of watts, it draws higher current from the battery.
Not entirely sure though. Just beginning to learn this as well.
He is referring to appliances that are rotating equipment. In this case, the appliance tries to produce the stated wattage. So if voltage drops due to a drop on a high resistance connection, then the appliance tries to draw more current. In the case where the load is resistive, like a light bulb or a heater, then lower voltage across the load results in lower current. This will result in lower power (watt) output or dim lights. He should have differentiated between the two types of loads.
Charge your batteries in Series, they will charge faster. But use them in parallel as they will last longer .
Can you tell us more about that and why?
@@PacificYachtSystems You charge them in series as it's like one battery and doesn't take as long, as if your charge them in parallel both would take the drain on the charger i.e split it and take longer to charge.
However using them in parallel might not give you the power of a series connection, but the charge will last longer and the more amps are available.
Congrats! Very very good, simple and precise explanations. Question: could we consider that each time the diameter of the wire changes we need to put a fuse to protect the new wiring at a smaller diameter?
Thx
Yes, absolutely
Great stuff.
i have a switch panel with 6 switches mounted on my 16foot tracker grizzly boat, a 24group DC 12v just for these low voltage electronics, a negative ground terminal, and a marine on/off battery cut off switch . The switch panel has a negative and positive wire, and each switch only has a male pin for accessories. I wired my positive cable that comes off the switch panel to a 10 awg wire that leads through the ON/OFF switch and into the positive terminal on battery, I then ran my negative wire into the negative bus bar terminal i have. My Green/Red bow lights only have negative and positive cable, so i ran the negative to the negative bus bar terminal and the positive into the back of one of the switches. Were at in this build should i have fuses? Can i just have one 15amp fuse in between the battery positive terminal and cut off switch? should i do that and also add inline fuses to each individual wire i run into the back of my switch panel? do i need both?
i don't even own a boat and this is a great lecture
Thanks, appreciate the feedback.
It would be good to consolidate these videos into a non-repetitive series. Good info, but keep it straight and to the point. Pictures of good and bad work.
Hi Robert, thanks for the advice. There are definitely some of the videos that are shorter and more of a summary. Thanks for watching.
Great seminar!, somehow hard to follow for someone like me, with very basic acknowledge on the matter. I got a thousand questions but but want to ask you just one for now (lol), does the appliance, wire grade and fuse amp go together? You were explaining and said "if you have a 15 amp fuse, the wire running to it should be not smaller than 14 grade", is that because in an event of something going wrong, the insulation on the wire will melt before the fuse shorts open? If the answer is yes, then the wire could be bigger than 14 grade? Thank you!
I meant gauge, not grade, sorry
Hi Mach truck, good question. You can definitely combiner circuit protection (i.e. fusing) for both the wire and the appliance. Or you can protect the wire with one circuit protection and closer to the appliance have another fuse to protect the appliance.
What about "stray" currents that contribute to electrolisis?
Good stuff.
We want to hear the questions.
Hi Da, your 100% right. Really need to get better at that. Next time, i'll pass a mic around for questions.
@ 28:31 it's said you can't connect different gauge wires other than with a terminal strip. But didn't mention anything about soldering the two different wires. Any implications with soldering terminals?
Good question, in a vibration prone environment like a boat, recommend use make mechanical connections first and then solder if you feel it's necessary. Most boat builders don't solder any connection but instead use connectors for connections.
@@PacificYachtSystems man, thanks for replying.. I would never thought you would! I'm for part 5 of this seminar and is great! My question was about only soldering the terminals with no mecanical coneccion! "I did achive the impossible" and you would roll your eyes, Lol. I connected a 12awg to a 16awg wire that goes to an aerator pum distancing 10 inches from coneccion. I didn't want to use a mecanical (metal buts) coneccion because it will add more bulk in the wire and so in the heat shrink for final appearance. Thus, I took 12awg wire and tinned the end in the shape of a female receiver (all strands arranged in a circular form with a hole in the center), then 16awg was tinned as well and inserted on 12awg *(receiver); with a crimper, those nice ones for terminal offshore fishing tackle, I crimped (compressed) the connection and proceeded to solder all together. Applied marine heat shrink and the result was beatiful! Now, I'm not sure how much resistance would be at this joints (positive and negative)? This is for a kayak, and pump at most would be 3 feet from battery! Tell me what do you think?
New word of the week: Dwelve
Lol, you got me. Even my mom and dad make fun of me all the time for mispronouncing or simply making up words.
Hey Jeff , I think I would like to buy your boat. Yep I want it
Thanks Henry.
hahahahaaa ive built my boat from the start to 24v :))) my dad talked a lot about how much more effective 24v is compared to 12v and now that i have a 24v system i see how right he was as im a full time live abord boater in the uk.
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
And that's hows it's done. 57.23
Great info! Thank you!!
Thank you for your feedback.
Jason New Zealand
Ur vids r a grate help
The slides that u use - any chance u could email them to me ?
Iv watch 1,2,3 so far
slides are on the PYS website.
I need advice or videos to install elci or ecli breakers on old boat 1973
Good question for a further video.
What is main difference between series and parallel contractions
Series connections increase the battery voltage, for instance two golf cart batteries at 6 volts, wired in series to make a 12 volt battery. With parallel, the voltage stays the same, and the amp-hours doubles.
Thanks
Hello, could you recommend any book? Greetings from Argentina
Nigel Calder's Electrical and Mechanical Handbook
Pull test to test quality of connection, how is that done?
Apply about 10-20 lbs of tension, and hold the wire in one hand in the other the connector.
Good and instructive presentation but I disagree about the explanation of 220V versus 110V. At the beginning all European countries used 110V but France started in 1965 to use 220V as it was cheaper to produce and demand was growing fast (you can keep the same wires to carry 2x more energy). Then other countries followed to benefit interconnections and enlarge the electricity market inside the european area. Concerning 50Hz versus 60Hz, that's another story :-)
Thank You!!! Appreciate the clarification.
I thought that the UK had always adopted 240V?
@@stephenburnage7687 yes and no. UK adopted 240v far before Europe but to replace DC current. Continental Europe deployed electricity later than UK and followed Tesla’s recommendations with AC 220v. Then 230v was chosen in 90’ to content both UK and Europe.
@elzariantlp4594 I had not appreciated that the UK shifted from a 240V to a 230V (nominal) standard in the 90's. Presumably, however, this is still subject to a power quality regulation (that allows the utility to deliver +/- (something like) 5% on that figure)?
Who's Nigel?
Nigel Calder, one of the pioneers of recreational marine electrical systems.
What is the book that is being referenced at 14:30?
Nigel Calder's Electrical and Mechanical Handbook, it's the bible.
What was the name of the app he suggested
Blue Sea Systems Circuit Wizard
Why 24V? Why not 48V that are standard available on the market?
Hi TST1998,
Can you please provide more context around your question? Not sure what clarification you need around 24 VDC vs 48 VDC?
Why you suggest 24 or 32 V, but not 48 V. I haven't seen standard 32 V batteries, but 48 V. Additionally, I saw some boat builder who go on 48 V. If you increase the voltage, why in so small step?
@@TST1998
Could be the availability of accessories and / or cost
@@AMentorway4u The cost should be lower with 48V system because the cable can have a smaller dimension. The difference in the batteries is just how you connect 2 batteries.
@@AMentorway4u I can under when you stay with 12 V because a lot of appliances can be run directly on 12V, but if you choose a higher voltage, you should go for 48V because you reduce the dimension of the cables considerably.
25 Watts out of your VHF FM Transmitter isn't the same as 25 Watts DC. ERP is effective radiated power. Could also be RF carrier power.
25 watts de votre émetteur FM VHF n'est pas la même chose que 25 watts CC.
ERP est la puissance rayonnée effective. Pourrait également être la puissance de la porteuse RF.
Thanks J Roger for clarifying.
A bit repetitive and redundant especially about how terrible everyone elses work is but i guess its structured information besides not being able too hear the audiences questions.
I think the point with that redundancy is to make sure we are not complacent. Take the time, do the job right, be safe for yourself and more importantly your passengers and crew.