These 2 Easy Upgrades Keep Garages Comfy Year Round
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- These two DIY garage upgrades are pretty quick to do and will make a huge difference in keeping your garage comfortable all year round. Check out tip 1 (DIY Garage Door Insulation) here: • The Easiest & Most Eff... #diy #garage #weekendwarrior
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I have been a garage door installer for over 30 years. This is an interesting solution to an air gap. Every door I have worked on in the north has weather seal installed outside and done correctly you should not have any air gaps. You can buy color matching weather molding at any lumber store.
Fellow garage door guy. Adding the vinyl stop would be so much easier and less expensive. It looks like he has stucco jambs which is why the stop wasn't installed. Also, adding all that down and paint is going to blow out that opener real quick.
It won't destroy the opener if he recalculates the weight and gets the correct torsion springs to balance the door correctly. But yet no one ever does
@@michaelhorton2000
How true, they add insulation and add weight which then overloads the opener. Then they call me , and I tell them they need a new opener and oh yeah you also need stronger springs.
@@michaelhorton2000 He mentioned in the comments that he did get a new spring. On top of all that insulation crammed in a door not designed for it, he painted literally everything from the rollers, to the hinges, and the tracks. It drives me crazy when people paint all the moving parts then complain that their door works awful.
@@BeersAndBeatsPDXthe last owner of my house painted *everything* including the steel tracks and even the copper water pipes 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Nice to see a DIY channel that features projects that are actually doable.
Exaggerating much!! 😂
You're telling me you can't use galvanized square steel and screws borrowed from your aunt to DIY a skyscraper??
10:58 I have 24 years in the garage door industry, and I see two problems here. Well, one problem and one over engineering solution. If you add insulation and don't rebalance the springs, you are going to wear out your operator and possibly your top section. Second, door stop installed correctly won't allow wind or light in around the door. Those tracks are a gimmick, in my opinion, but the springs not being torqued to the weight of the door is a fact. Those tracks are basically sealing like an outdated wood door from 60 years ago. It also looks like you replaced a heavier gauge track with very flimsy tracks. If you want the best insulation, you should get a door with polyurethane insulation and a thermal break so the outside metal doesn't touch the inside metal and stops all heat transfer. 9:51
In the video he did for the insulation installation, he does mention to have the tension readjusted. Even recommended to have a pro do it.
Good points, not to mention that these exterior door stops he chose look horrendous. All those screw caps are a sin.
you are right! gimmick crap... probably designed by someone who has never worked on a door in their life.
I have worked on garage doors before. The bent rails look like a problem creator to me. Clearances change with the weather, that's why they put weather strips on doors. Those things look like they'll cut you door openers life in half.
@@RichardQuaid we shall see waiting for the results
Top seal should sit behind the side seals; helps push them out of the way when the door comes down.
I used the thick Velcro from 3M. Placed strips along each resting part of the wheel contoured to the inside of the track. When the wheels come in contact with the Velcro it basically does the same thing as the thermo track grooves at a fraction of the price. Three years and still working like a charm!!!!
Have you also looked at the Green Hinge System to replace the hinges with rollers? They are spring-loaded to help press the door and keep it sealed if strong winds try to press it inwards. While installing my Green Hinge Systems hinges, I replaced the roller wheels with ones with better nylon wheels and bearings, along added some plastic sleeves to reduce the sounds and smooth the door track rolling.
I was looking at these as well. How do you like them?
I like James idea
Most of this could have been accomplished by properly adjusting the vertical tracks to tight up the door to the opening. The track should not be vertical. It is inclined, so the door essentially wedges into place.
Also, this causes more resistance every time you open or close the door. Will likely wear out door lift and seal much faster.
I was about to write the same comment. I’m glad someone else noticed how far out of adjustment that door was.
Darn guys just when I thought things could get better
I am not a sponsor but an owner who had similar issues with heat loss from the sides and top of the my insulated garage door. I bought these, easy to install and love them. Garage Door Hinge Set for Commercial 4 Panel Overhead Door | HeavyDuty Spring Loaded, Self Sealing Energy Saving Hinges
You may want to try using Garage Door Brush Seals, which should be much more effective in stopping the transfer of air and light. The brush seals should have a lot longer life. Most professional garages and commercial warehouses use them too.
She looks thrilled to be helping you. What a sport!
Neat! We replaced our own garage doors and did something similar to this. It really is a big help to keep temps under control especially in winter up in New England.
I just had a garage torsion spring explode and watched your DIY replacement video. I was all set to do it but I called my local garage pro and they will replace both springs with upgraded 35,000 cycle springs for $350. The springs themselves would cost me $200 so I'm going to do the rare thing and actually pay someone to do work at my house. 😂😂
I really appreciate the videos though.
Good call. Springs are terrifying.
Do not try to adjust the torsion springs yourself. If they explode, you could die.
wish i coulda gotten that price. did it myself recently. pretty damn easy tbh.
@@alecepting1371 nope. If you are winding up the spring, and it breaks, nobody is dieing. The spring is around a bar and that bar stops the spring from flying away. It's 'captive'. I just converted my single spring to a double spring setup, and it was so easy. The single spring was good for 4 or 5 years and around 12000 cycles. I upgraded to 2 springs with a 50,000 cycle life. Easy as pie to do yourself. If you go to a double spring setup, when you go to wind them up, it's twice as easy, as 1 single heavy duty spring.
@@alecepting1371 Only real thing I'm not particularly excited to do in my house is any work on the live side of my electrical panel. I leave that stuff to Sparky.
I'm just not going to tackle this job because it seems like it's probably going to take me at least a couple of hours and that's worth $150 to me. So the main driver here is laziness, not fear. 🤣
I think an easier solution is to replace the OEM garage door hinges with Green Hinges. These are spring loaded hinges that press garage doors to the frame seal and gives resistance to wind. That what I did for my heated shop and it didn't take long to do. I used to see daylight on my garage door edges when closed, even with weather striping. Now I don't. I found these after searching on ways to seal garage doors and it did the trick.
Honestly I think the track OR the hinges would be equally easy. I would prefer the tracks so I don't risk stripping out the hinge holes on the super cheapy garage door metal these days.
I've seen both products, the hinges do work just as well as the tracks.
@@user-vg6qv5jv3w I had no issues on my higher end Clopay steel doors but I see your point.
Nice work. I think there is a tradeoff to be considered for people with respect to how much time they spend in their garage. Since I don't spend a large amount of time most days, a $700 mini split made a lot more sense than perfectly sealing the door with the tracks. (I still improved what I had.) It's sized large enough to quickly make the space comfortable to work in during the most extreme temperatures here, providing a better cost to performance ratio since I don't need to run it constantly.
Wow, what an incredible invention. The Thermal Tracks does exactly what a properly adjusted Garage door track does, but for More Money ! See those Brackets that hold your Door Tracks in place? Yep, they are Slotted for a reason. Once the door is installed you Snug the tracks up using those Slots so your door touches all the way down the TRIM that is installed at the door edge. BAM, no air leak.
I can see one advantage of this system, and he alludes to it an the beginning of the video. If the door track is adjusted to press the door against the seal, then it is going to rub more on the way up and down, every time you open it. This seems like a bit of a benefit, because you can snug it up a little tighter and you will only be actually making contact when it is fully closed. My door is adjusted properly, as close as can be without rubbing, so when it is fully closed, it could stand to be a little bit more snug against the seal.
That being said, the right kind of seal with the right springiness and that can withstand some rubbing would probably be a simpler solution.
@@ddd42809 that is the very reason the track is not installed plumb with the wall, its spaqced out more at the top so the door seals on the closed position. this guys door was way out of adjustment.
I installed the ThermoTraks in my garage 2 years ago, took a little fiddling wit the weather seals they supply but once you figure it out they work very well. Probably the best setup would be in a new garage door installation but I was able to retrofit them into my existing track and make them work.
for those of us who have regular springs on both sides of your garage door beware of the cable that runs down the track. if you remove your old track with that cable when the door is closed that spring could cause injury because its under spring pressure.
I installed Thermotraks 2 years ago and they work great. Also, very easy to install.
The waved track is rediculous. A properly gapped & tapered track install should allow a good seal to install on the framing. There are high silicon [or similar] seal materials that handle freezing, dry slide reasonably well, and don't get smoked by ozone or UV exposure. Here's one option of many a search engine burped up that shows a little of what's out there: atlanticgasket.com/gasket-manufacturing/types-of-gaskets/silicone-gaskets.html
For this door design, more gasket width allows more thickness to get at a better R value - use very little compression. Maybe 0.025" compression with door down is all that's needed.
I like that skirting kind of application shown at 14:27 - thats a bonus dust seal in summer, and a guard against driving rain issues [very handy in northeast where freezing rain happens about every year].
Not really related to anything you're saying, but this is one of the boomerest comments I've seen
So, while putting this up, how do you not think “hmmm jam seals will close all those gaps I see” instead of removing perfectly working tracks in favor of a gimmick?
Trying to slide two rigid panels against each other, I guarantee will wear out faster than a simple rubber jam seal up the sides and across the top.
Make sure you clamp the vice grips in the track if you are wanting to hold the door open. The 3D animation shows the correct way to clamp in the track. At 8:50 he shows clamping around the track. I think the door could still close if clamped this way (and you could flatten the track a little and cause yourself another problem in the future.
Note that garages with a gas water heater or furnace or storing gas-powered cars, mowers, etc are supposed to have at least 1/150 sq ft ventilation, split high and low.
Wuth 'modern' tightly sealed garages, there have been a lot of issues with toxic and explosive fume build-up and inadequate combustion air for the appliances. A large vent fan that monitors for gas fumes, carbon monoxide build up, low oxygen levels, etc. is what is used in the basement levels of commercial garages.
Gas furnaces in the garage are required to be direct vent.
I would think that building spaces should be subdivided into those that are climate-controlled and those that are ventilated with outside air. If a garage or storage building which is opened and resealed when outside air is warm and ABSOLUTE humidity is moderately high, and the space is then cooled down, the moisture in air within that space space isn't going to be able to remain as water vapor within that space. It is going to either have to condense within that space or go somewhere else.
The insulation plus the Thermo Tracks are great ideas for those running a window AC in their garage to keep cool in the south. You could have used a 1/16" thick piece of plastic like UHMW-PE strip to set a consistent gap all around the garage door.
I installed the ThermoTraks system this past Spring and its been great! It did take me a full day to install though.
I moved into this house 25 years ago and one of the first things I did was have a different garage door installed. It is an insulated door with steel cladding on both sides. It helps keep the garage temperature from reaching the extreme temperatures that are outside. However I tend to wish I had an uninsulated door because of the weight. It is a wide door for a two car garage and weighs a lot. Twice I've had to get new springs installed because they break. If one of these springs break, the door is dangerous, because it will slam shut if the release rope is pulled. I did this once and thankfully my foot wasn't in the path of the door. For single car garage doors the insulated door should be ok.
Great info and video. You can seal up that last bit of gap along the top with 1in foam weather stripping. It will sit above the top of the frame so you'll never see it.
I know the insulation isn’t heavy but extra weight could throw the garage door off balance and put extra strain on the garage door opener. Previous owners insulated the garage door, and two years after moving in my garage door opener went out. In the process of replacing it, discovered that it was way out of balance. Could have been poor installation or combination of extra insulation weight…. But like the video and all the benefits of insulation. Spot on.
You need to get a professional to adjust the spring on the garage door after you add the insulation. Even though the insulation panels are light, between them, the tape, and the paint it's enough to throw the torsion off on the spring above the door, putting an extra load on the electric motor. I did the same kind of insulation about 5 years ago without rebalancing the garage door and the motor gave out.
Also, you need to check the fire code out in your area. The insulation you used is highly flammable. It's meant to be used behind sheet rock which acts a a fire barrier. Of course, you can't mount sheet rock to your garage door, but if you go to sell the house, it might not pass inspection. You could cover it with flashing, but that adds more weight to the door and might end up costing you more than just buying and insulated door.
Great points. I probably should have mentioned in the video that I did replace my springs after insulating the door due to the added weight, and made a video showing how.
@@LRN2DIYThanks for responding to the issue but this is critical information that an inexperienced person would have no clue to watch for
8:43 You should unplug the power cord of the garage door, but don't actually pull the string. Now the ONLY thing keeping that garage door up there is dust in the tracks and the vicegrips. Keep it connected to the track, but unplug the motor, and it'll be a lot safer.
I really appreciate how you say the tools and put the text on screen. The biggest thing about tools is not knowing how to even search for the tools you want
I got some estimates to replace my wood garage door with a modern insulted door. At $7000 .....😱 I insulated and weatherstripped it myself, thank you.
The results were fantastic! And yes, about $200. Contractors seem to be in a race to see who can charge the most, so doing your own work is the way to go.
Someone tried to rob you for 7k unless you went with something crazy...the door itself out here 16x7 is about 1700...
@@ghostbox2 Oh, I am totally aware of that.
The wall track usually is adjustable but if not the weather stripping on the outside is also adjustable so there's no need for buying extra track The trim for the outside is like 2 in which gives you plenty of adjustment to make up for whatever the door is off
FYI. I noticed you use an emergency detach cord for your garage door. This provides an easy way for burglars to enter your garage via drilling a hole, or fishing a coat hanger through the top of the door, grabbing the cord and detaching your door from the opening motor. Making it easy to lift up and enter. Just a thought.
I put in the Green Hinge system last year and have noticed a huge difference. Seems like a slightly easier install than the thermo tracks, and I believe it was cheaper too. (Total cost for both my 2-car garage door and my 1-car garage door was $280). I also put in the semi-rigid insulating strips on the outside (the ones with a faux-wood plastic edge and an attached rubber seal) and I like how they were very easy to keep straight while installing. (Unfortunately the color has faded from UV exposure quite a bit and they've turned from brown to having a slightly green hue to them. But the insulation they offer is still worth it, and I believe they can be painted as well.)
Another benefit of sealing the garage door is keeping critters out. Once caught a baby rattle snake trying to get into the garage through the gap left by the older worn seal. Replacing the seals, left, right and top for both doors took care of it. The track system is interesting but too costly for me.
Garage door pro here also.
I saw his previous video and he did change out the springs.
The thermotrack is a waste of money. If you want the door to seal better than adjust the jamb brackets.
Also buying weather trim from a pro has a much better look and the same sealing ability. Usually not accessible to public since the trim comes in 16ft+ strips for the width of the door.
Anyway, you probably could have saved a ton of time and money by having a pro come take a look and mounting trim.
I have an old style garage door without struts or channels. I figured out to cut some hard foam around 40-45 degrees where the panels meet. I would go with the lower end. They may rub or break so maybe make some small reliefs breaking cut lines and work through it manually. I used some sealing tape the for the angles without an issue. Just fyi. By the way, depending the day, I got 3-4 degrees from an insulated walled garage without HVAC yet. But the wall insulation made about 5-8 degrees difference.
But I will play with the tracks to see what happens. Thanks for the video
I see the idea behind the tracks, but they just look like a bit of a gimmick to me. The regular tracks, as the door moves up, pull the door away from the building. These new tracks just pull it away a bit further. Seems like the seals were all you needed here.
“There’s a mouthful for you…” is exactly what I tell me ol’ lady! 😉
When we had our home built (6 car garage, with dedicated RV and a boat bays), I told the GC to include climate/humidity/air purification control systems. Our garage remains a comfortable 74°F year around.
Love the T-shirt. So true!
Are those the Sierra mountains in the background?
What a view you lucky you.
You can also use some washers or shims between the top of the door and the stiffener to bow the door outward a little to get a better seal at the top. Or add a deeper stiffener, I added a thin 2" x 4" steel angle across the top of my 16' wide x 14' high door to keep the wind from pushing open a gap and rattling when its gusty.
Interesting. My house was built in 1985 with an addition in 1987, which included the garage. As far as I know, these are the original doors, tracks, and etc. There are weather seals all the way around, and the doors themselves are insulated doors. I don't know if there's insulation in the exterior walls, I've not bothered to really check into it. Also don't know if there's insulation in the roof, as there's no access panel on this end of the house (need to cut one to run some wiring anyway, maybe this fall). I have a small AC unit in the garage that will keep it around 72F even with it's 95F outside. There is a massive air leak under the back door. The concrete was either poured with a depression there, or years of use has worn it down. I guess I should fix that :)
I've seen people add the weather seal on the inside to sandwich the garage door between the seals. Seemed really effective for the cost on an old setup to get by until it can be redone properly.
If the door is newer and under warranty , you just voided any warranty.
Adding weight to the door messes up the balance.
Perimeter seal works great, is much cheaper..
They make garage weather seal for a reason and I noticed you don’t have any of that on your garage door and it doesn’t cost $300. This video is an expensive solution to a problem that can be fixed for about 50 bucks.
By the time you add all the weight with insulation foam you now need new springs and with tracks time and everything else you can have a insulated steel back door with vinyl and all for less time and same money
Was just thinking that myself. And, then I saw his shirt. He is ok with spending 3X to DYI :)
Pick up some of the foam, it weighs practically nothing.
I've installed the insulating panels on my garage door. It has sealing strips all around, so no light gaps. The garage walls are all insulated, and its ceiling sits beneath the floor of the master bedroom, so it never gets hot.
Summer days here in the desert typically exceed 110F degrees, but the garage rarely reaches 100, as long as the rollup and side doors remain closed. HOWEVER, after driving a hot car with exterior surfaces above 110 and an engine bay well above 200 into it, the garage heats up quickly and all of the insulation acts to hold the heat in. :(
I have a couple portable A/C units that I can run to pull it back down to around 100, if I really need to work out there in the heat, but the arrangement really is very much like a reverse Igloo cooler otherwise, holding the superheated air inside.
It would have been interesting to see how well the seal kit would have worked before you installed the side rails!😊
Only things missing are outer sealing hinges like green hinges, 14ga / heavy duty inner hinges, nylon sleeves for the roller shafts, and foam / cut pool noodle behind the hinge point on the inners and behind the roller on the outers to eliminate rattle.
Those rails look like they were beat with a hammer. That must make the door alot louder as it moves down the track
I would caulk along the edge of your weather stripping with a clear paintable caulk. Most of them are white and dry clear. A lot of air is passing between the weather stripping and wall.
Your assistant looks thrilled to be helping…….
Nils, thank you for this video, I want to insulate all 3 doors on my shop. I already have the minisplit so I'm going to insulate this September when it is cooler in SC. The hottest state on earth. Gtrat job my friend!
Great video. I liked how you addressed all possibilities. I myself would have installed the new rollers before making any adjustments though. The old ones could have been worn down and installing new could make it too tight.
Needed this. Perfect timing.
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a garage door professional but I think you might want to hit the front of your garage door with a power washer! Saw a lot of bugs! Anyways, look forward to your next video!
Great and very helpful video. I just started on my garage build and we do get up to -40c in winters.
The Nylon Wheels are amazing. Mine are sealed and don't get all mucked up.
On my door I used spacers, to emulate your adjustable top roller. Each Roller Hinge is set to snug the door against the Weather Stripping. I have Steel Track for my huge heavy door. So I'm not messing with that. Now it glides into place, especially with the Nylon Rollers, smoothly and amazingly silent. It's kinda creepy seeing this large door raise, lower and seal itself into place silently.
I honestly didn't know the tracks were that easy to remove lolol
Well explained all around but in my garage door is insolated n sealed outside insolated walls no air movement but gets to 95 degrees F in summer n close to 32 F in winter. It is separate from my house. Thoughts suggestions 🤔
Unfortunately nothing is going to help if the sun is beating on the metal surface of the garage door . Should not impact the house itself though .
If you take a 1/4" thick felt used on doors and staple that onto the lumber between the door its going to kill the rest of the light leaking
In this insulation is sold in rolls and used on door jambs the peel and stick foam will rub apart the felt holds up better, if you can't find it then trunk liner carpet is about 1/8" thick but it would take up the gap better then nothing.
I did not know about the bent track
Yes the nylon rollers make the door whisper quite my
Building code requires a fire resistant barrier on top of that foam paneling because it is highly flammable. Try installing something like frp on top of those panels.
Yes, fire resistant paint is another option, though expensive.
if you use iso roofing foam it's already fire retardant . get it will the foil skin
I found that putting a little caulk in the door seal (inside cavity) makes a big difference. If you're not using thethermo trak, it'll make a big difference.
@@hansangb dude! Great idea! Use a small bead of 100% clear silicone on one side of the joint, then wait overnight for it to cure. Then move to the next joint! Brilliant!
Thermo Traks are a neat idea.
Maybe bend the preexisting tracks or glue or screw in place some plastic bumps in the tracks?
I live in FL. I'm gonna park in the garage lol. Don't need to worry about rain or my car being 1000 degrees.
I like the tracks. I used a .75 piece of neoprene foam on the bottom seal. The strip was such a pita I quit.
Good job explaining the process 👍🇺🇸
good stuff man. did my torsion springs and now i'll prob do this. you make good content.
If insulation is retro fitted to garage door, make sure the spring tension is adjusted, otherwise the extra weight will cause the garage door opener to fail sooner than expected
This is a great video however, I would have loved to see you do the garage seals on the outside first before you installed the tracks since they are a much more expensive option upfront
turned out better than I thought
A properly installed and adjusted track, with any of the various jamb and weather seal options, would have gave you a better job, imo.
Cautionary word for newer model garage door opener owners. I could be wrong, but I am told new garage door openers are very efficient, and there is very little tolerance for the weight of the door/ tension in the spring.
7:54 I am sure that Cy home inspector guy would have caught that when this was made. LOL
Sealing the top is also very important security wise, that gap you had was large enough to push a drop weight through to hook into your pullcord. Once that's disconnected you can lift the door if its not locked down via the rail.
You put the track 3rd after the outside seal, but if you ARE going to do the track, you absolutely should do it before installing the outside seal, for very, i hope, obvious reasons
Tyler I'm so happy for you. I hope she is awesome off camera as she is on
Do you have any before and after measurements of the temperature and humidity impacts to go along with the airflow?
Hey Nils another great diy tip.. watching from your old home town. Nw ct.
I’m surprised he didn’t paint the motor white as well
About 7 months ago when you insulated the garage it was purple panels now everything looks white & taped almost. Did I miss a video where you went over the installation & make the door white again?
I added a rubber threshold to my garage; that sealed the bottom aga6nst wind driven rain.
On my budget, my “thermotracks” Will be made with a pair of channel locks. 😂
For those who park their car in the garage, know that parking your car in the garage after driving it when you have an isolated door means you’re trapping a very large heat source in the garage.
You can decide whether that benefits you in your situation.
If that door started moving are you sure the vice grips will hold it up? Or are you just adding a flying vice grip to your list of problems? I would think they would hold it up if it had no momentum behind it, but... then you'd want to put the vice grips right up against where the door is sitting, but you put it down a bit. Maybe not enough to let it get much energy built up, but..... I'd have either not used them at all or put it right up against the bottom roller.
Great Vid man, keep em coming.
a jamb seal would have been just as good if not better, cheaper and easier to do than putting new tracks in.
I love the white insulation when it’s new, but it looks so bad over time that lately I’ve been leaning towards black insulation.
Ceiling vs sealing
This is a dumb question... but are you in Saratoga Springs? I lived in Provo for a while, and seeing those mountains at 9:30 makes me miss the people there, how the mountains would light up red in the evening, the snow on Mt. Timp, so so much to love about that area of Utah. (Definitely don't respond if you have any risk of stalkers)
very useful video , thanks!
N.I.H.B. = knowing is half the battle Yo Joe !
the cost of thermotracks is insane for slightly bent metal.
The tracks seem a little redundant. My house has the proper outside jamb and head seals, with standard tracks, and there is NO light around the door whatsoever, other than the bottom middle where the concrete is a bit uneven under the rubber seal. But I definitely like the rigid insulation idea.
8:40: I don't know if I can trust anyone who has painted over the garage door opener like that to teach me to DIY.
The other half of the battle is a mix of blue and red lasers.
Great episode
Did you ever consider or would you consider open or closed cell spray foam to insulate the garage door with??
Rather amazing you don’t have kerf insulation. That’s a standard feature on most garages