At 8:40, the man incorrectly comments on the solenoid activation table. In this table, the “X” indicates the moment the solenoids are turned off, but the commentator says the opposite. For example, in fact N282 (B1) is active in 2nd and 6th gears and off in the rest, but the person commenting says otherwise. And at 10:10 it says that solenoid N90 (K3) is normally open (applied). But in reality it is normally closed (vented).
Great video. Really enjoyed learning a whole bunch just by watching your video. Very thorough and relevant, removed a good layer of fog on these valvebodies. I have a question and I've asked this elsewhere and couldn't get a good response. On my VW Tiguan with 09M valvebody, the wiring harness to the solenoids got some broken plastic tab and to this point, I've accidentally reversed the plug orientation. And upon sorting out the pins, I see that some valves are normally open, some normally closed, some use PWM signals, and overall, I realized by plugging it in the wrong orientation unknowingly, upon starting up the car, the car goes through a few "thump", "boom", and after that, it's stuck in park no matter what the shift lever does. Engine cranks fine,, the shift indicator can cycle through P, N, R, D without any issues, but transmission itself doesn't seem to respond at all. I've been at this for months now, and it wasn't until I finally addressed the harness plug that I found that I've plugged it wrong this whole time. Anyway, my question is, what sort of damage could each of the solenoids be subjected under if this is the case. All I can imagine is that the solenoids would operate under wrong shifting points/sequences, but I later did check the resistance to each solenoid, and they all pass with readings within 0.5m ohm of each other. The only foggy area I'm not so sure about are two things: 1) Can any of the solenoids be toasted under such mix up with the signal inputs coming from TCM? And if so, how come the resistance check reveals passing with flying colors, all are under specified ohm range? Under same temperature, I got 5.6 micro ohms and 13.2 micro ohms consistently where they should be. 2) Having the harness plugged wrong, I can imagine the TCM giving it firing signals to the wrong solenoids, will this doing affect the transmission's mechanical state itself? Does it throw the clutches and gears into a state where everything gets locked up? Ever since this issue, I've never been able to get the car to engage in any gear at all. It's as if the valvebody and torque converter don't even respond. Upon highly suspecting the torque converter isn't kicking in, I checked N91, SV-4, and it's PWM driven and its correct pin-out is #11 and #12 on the harness. But since the orientation is wrong, #3 and #4 are the pins plugged into it. #3 and #4 are On/Off solenoids (N92 SV-5, normally applied), By the way, N91 operating range is .2amp to 1amp, and N92 operating range is .1A to 1amp. Just by looking at the torque converter solenoid, without looking into others, I'm trying to determine if the torque converter solenoid could be faulty to cause a no-movement on the torque converter itself. It's what I'm most baffled about right now. By the way, I use VCDS scan tool (VAG-COM) and got no codes on the TCM. Sorry for the long email, but I dearly hope you can help. Thanks.
@@atra-automatictransmission1300 Thanks for the recommendation. I did just order a valvebody yesterday. Should be in and I'll give it a whirl. On the harness, I ended up testing all the leads for continuity from pin to pin, all checked out, I even checked to make sure the harness bob internally didn't cross-over at all. So that should be fine. Thanks so much for the reply.
Very good presentation. Only question I have is what is the difference between transmission bump and flair? Could not find a good explanation on google. My 09G problem (2007 Rabbit 2.5L 6 speed auto) is a loud clunk and can feel a jerking, when up and downshifting between 1-2, only happens when transmission hot after driving about 20-30 mi. Higher gears seem to be fine. I am guessing that it is a sticky solenoid valve but not sure which one or if a combination of solenoids. Any suggestions would be greet.
@John Lucas slowing the accumulator firms the shift; speeding up the accumulator softens the shift. There's an important rule regarding accumulator travel and the spike created when it stops: The shift must be completed BEFORE the accumulator stops moving. If the accumulator bottoms out before the shift is complete, you'll end up with and slide-bump shift. BTW the solenoids act as accumulators when they are PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) this is how the computers adapt the shifts. Hope this helps :)
A "bump" is a clunky down shift. A "flair" is a delay in upshifting and usually feels like the transmission is slipping before engaging the next higher gear. If this happens only when hot, it means the solenoids are going bad in the transmission's valve body. Replace them all.
I have a 2005 Mini Cooper AISIN transmission with a flare and hard shift when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. Is it the solenoid or just a adjustment to the K3 clutch needs to be done as described in the service document?
@James Wulf great question, I would say it depends on how many miles/KM you have on the unit if you have high mileage the clutch is more than likely worn and the adapts are maxed. This means the trans would need to come out... www.atra.com/ShopFinder
Probably the solenoids. They cause most of the problems in the Aisin 6 speed transmissions in Mini and VW cars. The clutches also wear out due to failures to change the trans fluid at 60,000 mile intervals.
So basically when you have a 1-2 bump problem with this transmission, you can just adjust the pressure on the B1 Brake instead of repairing the Valve Body :)
If you send an email to techemail@atra.com I can send you a copy of the handout for this webinar. Our books are available for puchase at members.atra.com/Store?category=books .
Great presentation! Throughly explained the 09G Valve Body. Thank you!
Thanks for the information, great contribution 👍🙏
Great, covers a lot in one presentation.
Thank you does this repair trouble shoot apply to the Audi Q5 2009 auto transmission valve body as well .
At 8:40, the man incorrectly comments on the solenoid activation table. In this table, the “X” indicates the moment the solenoids are turned off, but the commentator says the opposite. For example, in fact N282 (B1) is active in 2nd and 6th gears and off in the rest, but the person commenting says otherwise. And at 10:10 it says that solenoid N90 (K3) is normally open (applied). But in reality it is normally closed (vented).
Excellent man.i hop I'll get other BMW zf transmission guidelines from your team.thank you all
How much space between filter and bottom of pan?
Great video. Really enjoyed learning a whole bunch just by watching your video. Very thorough and relevant, removed a good layer of fog on these valvebodies.
I have a question and I've asked this elsewhere and couldn't get a good response. On my VW Tiguan with 09M valvebody, the wiring harness to the solenoids got some broken plastic tab and to this point, I've accidentally reversed the plug orientation. And upon sorting out the pins, I see that some valves are normally open, some normally closed, some use PWM signals, and overall, I realized by plugging it in the wrong orientation unknowingly, upon starting up the car, the car goes through a few "thump", "boom", and after that, it's stuck in park no matter what the shift lever does. Engine cranks fine,, the shift indicator can cycle through P, N, R, D without any issues, but transmission itself doesn't seem to respond at all.
I've been at this for months now, and it wasn't until I finally addressed the harness plug that I found that I've plugged it wrong this whole time. Anyway, my question is, what sort of damage could each of the solenoids be subjected under if this is the case. All I can imagine is that the solenoids would operate under wrong shifting points/sequences, but I later did check the resistance to each solenoid, and they all pass with readings within 0.5m ohm of each other. The only foggy area I'm not so sure about are two things:
1) Can any of the solenoids be toasted under such mix up with the signal inputs coming from TCM? And if so, how come the resistance check reveals passing with flying colors, all are under specified ohm range? Under same temperature, I got 5.6 micro ohms and 13.2 micro ohms consistently where they should be.
2) Having the harness plugged wrong, I can imagine the TCM giving it firing signals to the wrong solenoids, will this doing affect the transmission's mechanical state itself? Does it throw the clutches and gears into a state where everything gets locked up?
Ever since this issue, I've never been able to get the car to engage in any gear at all. It's as if the valvebody and torque converter don't even respond. Upon highly suspecting the torque converter isn't kicking in, I checked N91, SV-4, and it's PWM driven and its correct pin-out is #11 and #12 on the harness. But since the orientation is wrong, #3 and #4 are the pins plugged into it. #3 and #4 are On/Off solenoids (N92 SV-5, normally applied), By the way, N91 operating range is .2amp to 1amp, and N92 operating range is .1A to 1amp. Just by looking at the torque converter solenoid, without looking into others, I'm trying to determine if the torque converter solenoid could be faulty to cause a no-movement on the torque converter itself. It's what I'm most baffled about right now. By the way, I use VCDS scan tool (VAG-COM) and got no codes on the TCM. Sorry for the long email, but I dearly hope you can help. Thanks.
If I were you, I would replace the valve body and wiring harness as an assembly; that would be a good start.
@@atra-automatictransmission1300 Thanks for the recommendation. I did just order a valvebody yesterday. Should be in and I'll give it a whirl.
On the harness, I ended up testing all the leads for continuity from pin to pin, all checked out, I even checked to make sure the harness bob internally didn't cross-over at all. So that should be fine.
Thanks so much for the reply.
Very good presentation. Only question I have is what is the difference between transmission bump and flair? Could not find a good explanation on google. My 09G problem (2007 Rabbit 2.5L 6 speed auto) is a loud clunk and can feel a jerking, when up and downshifting between 1-2, only happens when transmission hot after driving about 20-30 mi. Higher gears seem to be fine. I am guessing that it is a sticky solenoid valve but not sure which one or if a combination of solenoids. Any suggestions would be greet.
@John Lucas slowing the accumulator firms the shift; speeding up the accumulator softens the shift. There's an important rule regarding accumulator travel and the spike created when it stops: The shift must be completed BEFORE the accumulator stops moving. If the accumulator bottoms out before the shift is complete, you'll end up with and slide-bump shift. BTW the solenoids act as accumulators when they are PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) this is how the computers adapt the shifts. Hope this helps :)
A "bump" is a clunky down shift. A "flair" is a delay in upshifting and usually feels like the transmission is slipping before engaging the next higher gear. If this happens only when hot, it means the solenoids are going bad in the transmission's valve body. Replace them all.
I have a 2005 Mini Cooper AISIN transmission with a flare and hard shift when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. Is it the solenoid or just a adjustment to the K3 clutch needs to be done as described in the service document?
@James Wulf great question, I would say it depends on how many miles/KM you have on the unit if you have high mileage the clutch is more than likely worn and the adapts are maxed. This means the trans would need to come out... www.atra.com/ShopFinder
Probably the solenoids. They cause most of the problems in the Aisin 6 speed transmissions in Mini and VW cars. The clutches also wear out due to failures to change the trans fluid at 60,000 mile intervals.
Is there a serviceability measurement that can be taken between the clutch plates while the valve body is out?
Unfortunately, there isn't
I ned a pressure control Solenoid b to 09G 325 039 F(valve body) , 2015 VW JETTA SE 1.8. Do you have it? Or know wehre l can find it?
eeBay and Amazon sell solenoid kits to replace all of them in the valve bodies
What size bolts hold the trans oil filter?
10mm
09G valve body 1800 from vw
mine has a case cooler but has the remote cooler hole opened
is there a specific question you had? happy to answer it
So basically when you have a 1-2 bump problem with this transmission, you can just adjust the pressure on the B1 Brake instead of repairing the Valve Body :)
Not sure what you're talking about...??? i saw him repair the Solenoids
You need to replace ALL the solenoids. When one goes bad, the others will soon follow.
Is Dexron VI (6) compatible?
Yes
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what is the meaning of overlap ? 41:34
I was wondering the same thing. I'm not sure how one can recognize that symptom.
I would be grateful if you send the manul 09g TF-80 U660E U880E
If you send an email to techemail@atra.com I can send you a copy of the handout for this webinar. Our books are available for puchase at members.atra.com/Store?category=books .
Quit the promotional crap, get on subject...or you're gonna lose US.
copy that.