Last commentor same...FINALLY! I've been thinking and searching and watching more than a dozen videos for this solution and here it is...as simple as can be, and more effective than I thought I'd get. Brilliant!!!!!!
Awesome! Need this technique for drilling into bedposts to add canopy. Now I can stop thinking about it and actually get it done!!! Thankyou very much sir.
I like this idea. I believe the tip may still wander even if a small amount using this method. To be even more exact, one could place a second guide block against the 4x4, possibly may need to screw it into end of 4x4 to keep it from moving or somehow clamp or screw to table top.
Hi Al. I have an old "school table" restoration project underway that is going to use barrel nuts and bolts to secure cross braces to the table legs. It will require the drilling of 5 +/- inch long holes in the end grain of the brace and I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. You video was the 1st one to come up when I searched the subject. What a great and simple idea to accomplish the mission. Thank you so much for sharing your time and expertise. 🙂
Thank you so much. I had seen other methods, really good ones I admit, but more involved, more parts constructed to achieve the same job. This keeps it nice and simple.
Thank you for this, I was trying to drill a straight hole in the end of a 2x2 and not having much luck making my own jig. This was super easy to set up and I was able to get it perfectly straight and clean.
I made a3" x 18" long cherry rolling pin by plowing a grove in two pieces and gluing them together. It worked, but your way is much better. Thanks for the demonstration and especially the explanation!
A video that shows actually drilling a long hole with a drill, instead of making grooves with a router and then glueing together. This is what I needed, because for my requirement, I can't cut the board and glue it back.
Thank you so much for this video. It’s almost my exact application. I tried it on my drill press but didn’t have enough depth. This is a perfect solution.
That is an awesome video, I have some really deep holes I need to drill for the stairs I am building and while looking for ideas on how to do that exactly I found your video, this should help me big time. Thank you very much!
Terrific video! I subscribe immediately. I need to downsize your setup and drill into 1/2 inch square dowels that are 12 inches long. This stumbling block has turned my grandson’s Xmas present into a New Years Day present. Or even Valentines Day at the rate I’m going.
Hi Al, I found your video extremely useful. For years I have been toying with idea of drilling, burning with a laser, or some other way to bore through the center heartwood of a large green Douglas Fir log in order to relieve the stress and checking of the outer sapwood when it dries. After I get a hole through the center of the log, I will attempt to use a sawblade or other method to saw radial kerfs up into the heartwood to let the log contract naturally, and hopefully smoothly, as it dries. This is an experiment that I have not yet tried, but I've been researching methods like you show here to attack this problem. I really like your technique of redesigning the end of the bit to avoid its digging into the grain as it bores forward. That is something I had not thought of. My latest sketch uses a set of guides, like your small wood block(except made of steel and anchored in a rigid medium, like concrete) to hold my 'drill string' as I call it. I plan to mount the bit into a long rigid steel pipe that can be aligned perfectly with the pith of the log and kept that way. My new trick that I came up with recently is to have the outside diameter of the steel support sleeve be the same diameter as the bit at its boring end. In this way I can bore a short way into the log, remove the drill string and bit to clear the shavings, then re-insert the drill string and continue boring deep into the log. By making the sleeve the size of the bit, it will be held rigid by the hole in the log that is the same diameter as the sleeve. It will also be held rigid by the guide anchors on the anterior end of the device. What you demonstrated in the video is exactly the procedure that I came up with for my experiment....just on a smaller scale. If my trick is successful, I believe it will be of great utility to timber framers who wish to eliminate unsightly cracks/checks in their visible posts and beams. Most of them will tell you to 'just learn to love those cracks because they don't decrease the functionality of the wood', but I still want my timbers to look like they came out of grandpa's homestead cabin with not a blemish on them! --John in the great northwest USA
When making smaller diameter hole if one has problems with proposed method, it might be interesting slight modification as follows. Instead of one guide box I make two such boxes. I drill these boxes as one larger box on drill press (that has to be on drill press) and then cut it on two halves. Now you got two guide blocks, one put in front as shown in video, the other put next to workpiece. The reason for that is better precision needed for smaller hole diameters. However I would use 4 millimeters drill or larger. You can drill guide box with 1mm larger drill for easier drill passage and for better feeling of direction. Also in that modification one has no need for grinding the tip of drill, you can use normal brad point drill as usual.
THANK YOU FOR THIS..WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA.. AND I DO LIKE TO MAKE LAMPS AND STANDARD LAMPS AS YOU KNOW WOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET..THE WOOD HERE IS VERY HARD AND PUSHING A HOLE THROUGH TWO LENGTHS AT TWO AN A HALF FEET IS NOT VERY EASY AND BRAKING BITS IS VERY EASY TO DO..I FOLLOWED WHAT YOU DID BUT USED HALF INCH BITS AND DRILLING FROM BOTH ENDS WELL WOW IT REALLY WORKS..SO SIR THANKS A MILLION..DAVID..N.S. W. AUS....
Thank you so much for sharing this simple and great method... I am planning on making flutes and would have to make a much wider hole. What bits would you use if you needed a 1+ inch hole? I can't seem to find the kind you show in this video for that diameter and length...
Hello, I have 2 questions for your, if you are si kind to answer me: 1) is it a Wood Installer Bit or it’s rather a Construction Installer Bit? In construction you could find steel bars into concrete. 2) Do you think those bits and method could be used on high density hard wood blocks such us Granadillo, Rosewood, Cocobolo wood for a 40 to 50 cm long straight hole? Thank you very much. Your video is very useful to me.
Great solution would have liked to see the finished results to see if it's really working but it makes sense for dure, I need to do almost exactly this kind of hole so tested a manual approach that was ok over 30cm but need twice that and then it risks to cut on the side causing huge error that is a nightmare to fix
Great video, thanks. I've been looking everywhere for this solution for flute making. Will a brad point bit work, too, or will that also follow the grain and wander?
Good evening, sir. Thank you for clip and tips. I like your metal holder, i didnt saw anything like that, whatbis the name of that tool, or is it diy? Next, can you tell me, is it possible to drill 30 cm hole in a piece of wood, if i want to make an instrument, like wooden flute? Like you do in this video clip. Ot, there is a better way. Thank you very much.
I've been working on 3 floating shelves for more than a month due to crooked holes in 11.5" shelves and even drilling into wall stud is crooked holes. Was ready tomorrow morning to lock the shelf to the drill press adjustment plate sideways in order to try and get the board level enough to drill a 6" straight hole. Your idea might be a lot easier and I am going to work on it tomorrow morning before I continue with my idea.
Great video. I need to drill a 13.5" blind hole in a hickory dowel that is .375"+ in diameter. What drill bit would you recommend? I'm no good at grinding drill tips off of drill bits; I'd rather buy a pre-made one (or I'd pay you to do one for me).
Drill a 10mm hole in any piece of wood (flat like a plywood), but dont drill thru!! Drill trhru with 4mm the bottom, stick the rod into it and drill 4mm from the opposite of the rod... If it does make sense... Good luck despite it's a year old question...😇
![precise axial drilling jig for long wood [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zIH6VBm0eTo/mqdefault.jpg)
FINALLY!!!! After at least a dozen or more videos FINALLY a realistic, logical and DOABLE solution! Thank you 😁😁😁😁
Last commentor same...FINALLY! I've been thinking and searching and watching more than a dozen videos for this solution and here it is...as simple as can be, and more effective than I thought I'd get. Brilliant!!!!!!
Gotta say, your solution is so elegant and simple. Thank you for sharing, truly.
Awesome! Need this technique for drilling into bedposts to add canopy. Now I can stop thinking about it and actually get it done!!! Thankyou very much sir.
Brilliant. 🤔 That first 1/2 inch or so you drilled with the spade bit is your second guide bearing. I love this. 🙏🙏🙏☕️🎩🎩🎩✊
I like this idea. I believe the tip may still wander even if a small amount using this method. To be even more exact, one could place a second guide block against the 4x4, possibly may need to screw it into end of 4x4 to keep it from moving or somehow clamp or screw to table top.
This morning I needed to drill a deep hole in a 4x4, but had no idea how to do it. Now I do, and I can get on with my project. Thank you.
You are one clever guy. Thanks for the best tip I've found for doing this.
Hi Al. I have an old "school table" restoration project underway that is going to use barrel nuts and bolts to secure cross braces to the table legs. It will require the drilling of 5 +/- inch long holes in the end grain of the brace and I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. You video was the 1st one to come up when I searched the subject. What a great and simple idea to accomplish the mission. Thank you so much for sharing your time and expertise. 🙂
Thanks! This is very helpful. The guide block was the missing piece in my contemplations on how to do this.
Thank you so much. I had seen other methods, really good ones I admit, but more involved, more parts constructed to achieve the same job. This keeps it nice and simple.
Thanks for the video, some good ideas there, but I would have liked to see you drill all the way through and see where the bit came out.
That's a really good, simple and practical idea. Thanks.
I wonder why very few people have watched this video.
Thank you for this, I was trying to drill a straight hole in the end of a 2x2 and not having much luck making my own jig. This was super easy to set up and I was able to get it perfectly straight and clean.
I made a3" x 18" long cherry rolling pin by plowing a grove in two pieces and gluing them together. It worked, but your way is much better. Thanks for the demonstration and especially the explanation!
The guide block was my favorite part of this video. I always forget about little things like that.
So glad you liked it.
Very nice and simple jig, you addressed all the issues I have been thinking about on why my holes are not centered!
A video that shows actually drilling a long hole with a drill, instead of making grooves with a router and then glueing together. This is what I needed, because for my requirement, I can't cut the board and glue it back.
To be fair the router method is good for longer holes that this block method won't work for.
Thank you so much for this video. It’s almost my exact application. I tried it on my drill press but didn’t have enough depth. This is a perfect solution.
That's a smart solution to an often difficult task. Thanks for sharing!
This is a very good, and very useful tip for a novice like me. Thank you for uploading this.
That is an awesome video, I have some really deep holes I need to drill for the stairs I am building and while looking for ideas on how to do that exactly I found your video, this should help me big time. Thank you very much!
I'm glad you found it helpful. I am striving to keep them short and good. More to follow, eventually. :)
Awesome! Great technique, I'll be using this to drill some holes for a floating desk project.
Yeah, this is the perfect, doable, verifiable and straight solution. 👏👏👏👏
Terrific video! I subscribe immediately. I need to downsize your setup and drill into 1/2 inch square dowels that are 12 inches long. This stumbling block has turned my grandson’s Xmas present into a New Years Day present. Or even Valentines Day at the rate I’m going.
Hi Al, I found your video extremely useful. For years I have been toying with idea of drilling, burning with a laser, or some other way to bore through the center heartwood of a large green Douglas Fir log in order to relieve the stress and checking of the outer sapwood when it dries. After I get a hole through the center of the log, I will attempt to use a sawblade or other method to saw radial kerfs up into the heartwood to let the log contract naturally, and hopefully smoothly, as it dries. This is an experiment that I have not yet tried, but I've been researching methods like you show here to attack this problem.
I really like your technique of redesigning the end of the bit to avoid its digging into the grain as it bores forward. That is something I had not thought of.
My latest sketch uses a set of guides, like your small wood block(except made of steel and anchored in a rigid medium, like concrete) to hold my 'drill string' as I call it. I plan to mount the bit into a long rigid steel pipe that can be aligned perfectly with the pith of the log and kept that way. My new trick that I came up with recently is to have the outside diameter of the steel support sleeve be the same diameter as the bit at its boring end. In this way I can bore a short way into the log, remove the drill string and bit to clear the shavings, then re-insert the drill string and continue boring deep into the log. By making the sleeve the size of the bit, it will be held rigid by the hole in the log that is the same diameter as the sleeve. It will also be held rigid by the guide anchors on the anterior end of the device.
What you demonstrated in the video is exactly the procedure that I came up with for my experiment....just on a smaller scale. If my trick is successful, I believe it will be of great utility to timber framers who wish to eliminate unsightly cracks/checks in their visible posts and beams. Most of them will tell you to 'just learn to love those cracks because they don't decrease the functionality of the wood', but I still want my timbers to look like they came out of grandpa's homestead cabin with not a blemish on them! --John in the great northwest USA
This a a fantastic and conventional method thank you for sharing!
so simple.... yet I never thought of it. Thank you for this video!
brilliant !! cudos to you for solving my biggest problem....
When making smaller diameter hole if one has problems with proposed method, it might be interesting slight modification as follows.
Instead of one guide box I make two such boxes. I drill these boxes as one larger box on drill press (that has to be on drill press) and then cut it on two halves. Now you got two guide blocks, one put in front as shown in video, the other put next to workpiece.
The reason for that is better precision needed for smaller hole diameters. However I would use 4 millimeters drill or larger. You can drill guide box with 1mm larger drill for easier drill passage and for better feeling of direction. Also in that modification one has no need for grinding the tip of drill, you can use normal brad point drill as usual.
All these years- and thats how you do it!!
Thanks for the informative video.
So, why you need to change the shape of the bit end.....
Good and short. Thank you. Nice drill bit customization..make your own tool.
How the heck I didn't think of this... thank you!
Really great tip, I’ll be using this tonight.
THANK YOU FOR THIS..WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA.. AND I DO LIKE TO MAKE LAMPS AND STANDARD LAMPS AS YOU KNOW WOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET..THE WOOD HERE IS VERY HARD AND PUSHING A HOLE THROUGH TWO LENGTHS AT TWO AN A HALF FEET IS NOT VERY EASY AND BRAKING BITS IS VERY EASY TO DO..I FOLLOWED WHAT YOU DID BUT USED HALF INCH BITS AND DRILLING FROM BOTH ENDS WELL WOW IT REALLY WORKS..SO SIR THANKS A MILLION..DAVID..N.S. W. AUS....
Thanks for the very useful video. How would you get the hole through a 57 inch 4 x 4?
What a Totally GREAT tip! Many thanks!!!
Thank you, you just saved my life, Blessings
Thank you so much for sharing this simple and great method... I am planning on making flutes and would have to make a much wider hole. What bits would you use if you needed a 1+ inch hole? I can't seem to find the kind you show in this video for that diameter and length...
One word -fantastic
thanks for the video, I need to insert a 1" galvanized pipe inside a fence post. can you share some idea on suitable bit, thanks
Great idea ...Thanks for sharing
Hello, I have 2 questions for your, if you are si kind to answer me:
1) is it a Wood Installer Bit or it’s rather a Construction Installer Bit? In construction you could find steel bars into concrete.
2) Do you think those bits and method could be used on high density hard wood blocks such us Granadillo, Rosewood, Cocobolo wood for a 40 to 50 cm long straight hole?
Thank you very much. Your video is very useful to me.
This is very unique tip. Thank you.
Great, thanks. Very helpful and good to know!
Brilliant, thanks for sharing!
Ingenious, really. Thank you
simple/genius, thank you.
Awesome video! Thanks 😊👍
Great video!
Great instruction-video .Thank you Sir !
One word: AMAZING!
Great solution would have liked to see the finished results to see if it's really working but it makes sense for dure, I need to do almost exactly this kind of hole so tested a manual approach that was ok over 30cm but need twice that and then it risks to cut on the side causing huge error that is a nightmare to fix
Great video, thanks. I've been looking everywhere for this solution for flute making. Will a brad point bit work, too, or will that also follow the grain and wander?
Thanks! That was super helpful.
Good evening, sir.
Thank you for clip and tips.
I like your metal holder, i didnt saw anything like that, whatbis the name of that tool, or is it diy?
Next, can you tell me, is it possible to drill 30 cm hole in a piece of wood, if i want to make an instrument, like wooden flute? Like you do in this video clip. Ot, there is a better way.
Thank you very much.
Excellent video. Solves a lot!
You are genius , many many thanks for sharing.
That's a great idea, thanks for the tutorial 😁😁👍
hey will this work for hardwoods like Walnut? and drilling it to 3 ft deep?
Perfect. Great video. Thanks.
Nice video but what about if need to drill mild steel deep and straight
elegant solution, well done
Always get that extra half inch boys... sorry i had to. Really great technique thank you.
Great video thanks for sharing.
Brilliant! Thanks!
Great video, thanks!!!
This technique may work! Im going to try it now..Fingers crossed...
I've been working on 3 floating shelves for more than a month due to crooked holes in 11.5" shelves and even drilling into wall stud is crooked holes. Was ready tomorrow morning to lock the shelf to the drill press adjustment plate sideways in order to try and get the board level enough to drill a 6" straight hole. Your idea might be a lot easier and I am going to work on it tomorrow morning before I continue with my idea.
Great idea, could you please wear can I purchase a drill bit like that I only need to go 48 inches
Fantastic. Thanks.
It literally what machinist do with a lathe and steady rests, but they have material in motion and woodworkers have a tool in motion.
Thanks for knowledge!
Would this method work for a 50mm diameter hole at 100mm deep? and what bit would you use.
Great video. I need to drill a 13.5" blind hole in a hickory dowel that is .375"+ in diameter. What drill bit would you recommend? I'm no good at grinding drill tips off of drill bits; I'd rather buy a pre-made one (or I'd pay you to do one for me).
This is very helpful
03:50 I would have started to drill with the extra guide block close to the workpiece first and then gradually withdraw it.
I fucking love this trick. Thanks!
very clever. thanks
I like it sir!
I take it the drill bit you used is most preferable, what is it called?
Liked and subscribed! 😁🥳🥳
can someone explain to me how to drill a 4mm hole in a wooden stick that is 1cm in diameter and 10cm long

Drill a 10mm hole in any piece of wood (flat like a plywood), but dont drill thru!! Drill trhru with 4mm the bottom, stick the rod into it and drill 4mm from the opposite of the rod...
If it does make sense...
Good luck despite it's a year old question...😇
A smart method!
Genius
nice
i did this 18" in from 1 side 18" from other and hit within 1/8"
GEEEEEEEEEIOUS !!!!