Last commentor same...FINALLY! I've been thinking and searching and watching more than a dozen videos for this solution and here it is...as simple as can be, and more effective than I thought I'd get. Brilliant!!!!!!
I made a3" x 18" long cherry rolling pin by plowing a grove in two pieces and gluing them together. It worked, but your way is much better. Thanks for the demonstration and especially the explanation!
I like this idea. I believe the tip may still wander even if a small amount using this method. To be even more exact, one could place a second guide block against the 4x4, possibly may need to screw it into end of 4x4 to keep it from moving or somehow clamp or screw to table top.
Thank you so much. I had seen other methods, really good ones I admit, but more involved, more parts constructed to achieve the same job. This keeps it nice and simple.
Awesome! Need this technique for drilling into bedposts to add canopy. Now I can stop thinking about it and actually get it done!!! Thankyou very much sir.
Hi Al. I have an old "school table" restoration project underway that is going to use barrel nuts and bolts to secure cross braces to the table legs. It will require the drilling of 5 +/- inch long holes in the end grain of the brace and I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. You video was the 1st one to come up when I searched the subject. What a great and simple idea to accomplish the mission. Thank you so much for sharing your time and expertise. 🙂
Thank you so much for this video. It’s almost my exact application. I tried it on my drill press but didn’t have enough depth. This is a perfect solution.
That is an awesome video, I have some really deep holes I need to drill for the stairs I am building and while looking for ideas on how to do that exactly I found your video, this should help me big time. Thank you very much!
Terrific video! I subscribe immediately. I need to downsize your setup and drill into 1/2 inch square dowels that are 12 inches long. This stumbling block has turned my grandson’s Xmas present into a New Years Day present. Or even Valentines Day at the rate I’m going.
Hi Al, I found your video extremely useful. For years I have been toying with idea of drilling, burning with a laser, or some other way to bore through the center heartwood of a large green Douglas Fir log in order to relieve the stress and checking of the outer sapwood when it dries. After I get a hole through the center of the log, I will attempt to use a sawblade or other method to saw radial kerfs up into the heartwood to let the log contract naturally, and hopefully smoothly, as it dries. This is an experiment that I have not yet tried, but I've been researching methods like you show here to attack this problem. I really like your technique of redesigning the end of the bit to avoid its digging into the grain as it bores forward. That is something I had not thought of. My latest sketch uses a set of guides, like your small wood block(except made of steel and anchored in a rigid medium, like concrete) to hold my 'drill string' as I call it. I plan to mount the bit into a long rigid steel pipe that can be aligned perfectly with the pith of the log and kept that way. My new trick that I came up with recently is to have the outside diameter of the steel support sleeve be the same diameter as the bit at its boring end. In this way I can bore a short way into the log, remove the drill string and bit to clear the shavings, then re-insert the drill string and continue boring deep into the log. By making the sleeve the size of the bit, it will be held rigid by the hole in the log that is the same diameter as the sleeve. It will also be held rigid by the guide anchors on the anterior end of the device. What you demonstrated in the video is exactly the procedure that I came up with for my experiment....just on a smaller scale. If my trick is successful, I believe it will be of great utility to timber framers who wish to eliminate unsightly cracks/checks in their visible posts and beams. Most of them will tell you to 'just learn to love those cracks because they don't decrease the functionality of the wood', but I still want my timbers to look like they came out of grandpa's homestead cabin with not a blemish on them! --John in the great northwest USA
A video that shows actually drilling a long hole with a drill, instead of making grooves with a router and then glueing together. This is what I needed, because for my requirement, I can't cut the board and glue it back.
THANK YOU FOR THIS..WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA.. AND I DO LIKE TO MAKE LAMPS AND STANDARD LAMPS AS YOU KNOW WOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET..THE WOOD HERE IS VERY HARD AND PUSHING A HOLE THROUGH TWO LENGTHS AT TWO AN A HALF FEET IS NOT VERY EASY AND BRAKING BITS IS VERY EASY TO DO..I FOLLOWED WHAT YOU DID BUT USED HALF INCH BITS AND DRILLING FROM BOTH ENDS WELL WOW IT REALLY WORKS..SO SIR THANKS A MILLION..DAVID..N.S. W. AUS....
Great solution would have liked to see the finished results to see if it's really working but it makes sense for dure, I need to do almost exactly this kind of hole so tested a manual approach that was ok over 30cm but need twice that and then it risks to cut on the side causing huge error that is a nightmare to fix
Hello, I have 2 questions for your, if you are si kind to answer me: 1) is it a Wood Installer Bit or it’s rather a Construction Installer Bit? In construction you could find steel bars into concrete. 2) Do you think those bits and method could be used on high density hard wood blocks such us Granadillo, Rosewood, Cocobolo wood for a 40 to 50 cm long straight hole? Thank you very much. Your video is very useful to me.
Thank you so much for sharing this simple and great method... I am planning on making flutes and would have to make a much wider hole. What bits would you use if you needed a 1+ inch hole? I can't seem to find the kind you show in this video for that diameter and length...
I've been working on 3 floating shelves for more than a month due to crooked holes in 11.5" shelves and even drilling into wall stud is crooked holes. Was ready tomorrow morning to lock the shelf to the drill press adjustment plate sideways in order to try and get the board level enough to drill a 6" straight hole. Your idea might be a lot easier and I am going to work on it tomorrow morning before I continue with my idea.
Great video, thanks. I've been looking everywhere for this solution for flute making. Will a brad point bit work, too, or will that also follow the grain and wander?
Good evening, sir. Thank you for clip and tips. I like your metal holder, i didnt saw anything like that, whatbis the name of that tool, or is it diy? Next, can you tell me, is it possible to drill 30 cm hole in a piece of wood, if i want to make an instrument, like wooden flute? Like you do in this video clip. Ot, there is a better way. Thank you very much.
Great video. I need to drill a 13.5" blind hole in a hickory dowel that is .375"+ in diameter. What drill bit would you recommend? I'm no good at grinding drill tips off of drill bits; I'd rather buy a pre-made one (or I'd pay you to do one for me).
Drill a 10mm hole in any piece of wood (flat like a plywood), but dont drill thru!! Drill trhru with 4mm the bottom, stick the rod into it and drill 4mm from the opposite of the rod... If it does make sense... Good luck despite it's a year old question...😇
![precise axial drilling jig for long wood [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zIH6VBm0eTo/mqdefault.jpg)
FINALLY!!!! After at least a dozen or more videos FINALLY a realistic, logical and DOABLE solution! Thank you 😁😁😁😁
Last commentor same...FINALLY! I've been thinking and searching and watching more than a dozen videos for this solution and here it is...as simple as can be, and more effective than I thought I'd get. Brilliant!!!!!!
I made a3" x 18" long cherry rolling pin by plowing a grove in two pieces and gluing them together. It worked, but your way is much better. Thanks for the demonstration and especially the explanation!
Thanks for the video, some good ideas there, but I would have liked to see you drill all the way through and see where the bit came out.
I like this idea. I believe the tip may still wander even if a small amount using this method. To be even more exact, one could place a second guide block against the 4x4, possibly may need to screw it into end of 4x4 to keep it from moving or somehow clamp or screw to table top.
Thank you so much. I had seen other methods, really good ones I admit, but more involved, more parts constructed to achieve the same job. This keeps it nice and simple.
This morning I needed to drill a deep hole in a 4x4, but had no idea how to do it. Now I do, and I can get on with my project. Thank you.
Awesome! Need this technique for drilling into bedposts to add canopy. Now I can stop thinking about it and actually get it done!!! Thankyou very much sir.
That's a really good, simple and practical idea. Thanks.
I wonder why very few people have watched this video.
Brilliant. 🤔 That first 1/2 inch or so you drilled with the spade bit is your second guide bearing. I love this. 🙏🙏🙏☕️🎩🎩🎩✊
The guide block was my favorite part of this video. I always forget about little things like that.
So glad you liked it.
Thanks! This is very helpful. The guide block was the missing piece in my contemplations on how to do this.
Hi Al. I have an old "school table" restoration project underway that is going to use barrel nuts and bolts to secure cross braces to the table legs. It will require the drilling of 5 +/- inch long holes in the end grain of the brace and I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. You video was the 1st one to come up when I searched the subject. What a great and simple idea to accomplish the mission. Thank you so much for sharing your time and expertise. 🙂
You are one clever guy. Thanks for the best tip I've found for doing this.
That's a smart solution to an often difficult task. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice and simple jig, you addressed all the issues I have been thinking about on why my holes are not centered!
Good and short. Thank you. Nice drill bit customization..make your own tool.
Thank you so much for this video. It’s almost my exact application. I tried it on my drill press but didn’t have enough depth. This is a perfect solution.
Great idea ...Thanks for sharing
This is a very good, and very useful tip for a novice like me. Thank you for uploading this.
Awesome video! Thanks 😊👍
That is an awesome video, I have some really deep holes I need to drill for the stairs I am building and while looking for ideas on how to do that exactly I found your video, this should help me big time. Thank you very much!
I'm glad you found it helpful. I am striving to keep them short and good. More to follow, eventually. :)
This a a fantastic and conventional method thank you for sharing!
All these years- and thats how you do it!!
Yeah, this is the perfect, doable, verifiable and straight solution. 👏👏👏👏
so simple.... yet I never thought of it. Thank you for this video!
Awesome! Great technique, I'll be using this to drill some holes for a floating desk project.
How the heck I didn't think of this... thank you!
Terrific video! I subscribe immediately. I need to downsize your setup and drill into 1/2 inch square dowels that are 12 inches long. This stumbling block has turned my grandson’s Xmas present into a New Years Day present. Or even Valentines Day at the rate I’m going.
One word -fantastic
Hi Al, I found your video extremely useful. For years I have been toying with idea of drilling, burning with a laser, or some other way to bore through the center heartwood of a large green Douglas Fir log in order to relieve the stress and checking of the outer sapwood when it dries. After I get a hole through the center of the log, I will attempt to use a sawblade or other method to saw radial kerfs up into the heartwood to let the log contract naturally, and hopefully smoothly, as it dries. This is an experiment that I have not yet tried, but I've been researching methods like you show here to attack this problem.
I really like your technique of redesigning the end of the bit to avoid its digging into the grain as it bores forward. That is something I had not thought of.
My latest sketch uses a set of guides, like your small wood block(except made of steel and anchored in a rigid medium, like concrete) to hold my 'drill string' as I call it. I plan to mount the bit into a long rigid steel pipe that can be aligned perfectly with the pith of the log and kept that way. My new trick that I came up with recently is to have the outside diameter of the steel support sleeve be the same diameter as the bit at its boring end. In this way I can bore a short way into the log, remove the drill string and bit to clear the shavings, then re-insert the drill string and continue boring deep into the log. By making the sleeve the size of the bit, it will be held rigid by the hole in the log that is the same diameter as the sleeve. It will also be held rigid by the guide anchors on the anterior end of the device.
What you demonstrated in the video is exactly the procedure that I came up with for my experiment....just on a smaller scale. If my trick is successful, I believe it will be of great utility to timber framers who wish to eliminate unsightly cracks/checks in their visible posts and beams. Most of them will tell you to 'just learn to love those cracks because they don't decrease the functionality of the wood', but I still want my timbers to look like they came out of grandpa's homestead cabin with not a blemish on them! --John in the great northwest USA
What a Totally GREAT tip! Many thanks!!!
A video that shows actually drilling a long hole with a drill, instead of making grooves with a router and then glueing together. This is what I needed, because for my requirement, I can't cut the board and glue it back.
To be fair the router method is good for longer holes that this block method won't work for.
Really great tip, I’ll be using this tonight.
Brilliant! Thanks!
THANK YOU FOR THIS..WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA.. AND I DO LIKE TO MAKE LAMPS AND STANDARD LAMPS AS YOU KNOW WOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET..THE WOOD HERE IS VERY HARD AND PUSHING A HOLE THROUGH TWO LENGTHS AT TWO AN A HALF FEET IS NOT VERY EASY AND BRAKING BITS IS VERY EASY TO DO..I FOLLOWED WHAT YOU DID BUT USED HALF INCH BITS AND DRILLING FROM BOTH ENDS WELL WOW IT REALLY WORKS..SO SIR THANKS A MILLION..DAVID..N.S. W. AUS....
This is very helpful
Thank you, you just saved my life, Blessings
This is very unique tip. Thank you.
brilliant !! cudos to you for solving my biggest problem....
One word: AMAZING!
Thanks for the informative video.
So, why you need to change the shape of the bit end.....
simple/genius, thank you.
Brilliant, thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Solves a lot!
You are genius , many many thanks for sharing.
Great, thanks. Very helpful and good to know!
Thanks! That was super helpful.
I like it sir!
Great instruction-video .Thank you Sir !
Ingenious, really. Thank you
elegant solution, well done
Always get that extra half inch boys... sorry i had to. Really great technique thank you.
Perfect. Great video. Thanks.
That's a great idea, thanks for the tutorial 😁😁👍
Fantastic. Thanks.
Great solution would have liked to see the finished results to see if it's really working but it makes sense for dure, I need to do almost exactly this kind of hole so tested a manual approach that was ok over 30cm but need twice that and then it risks to cut on the side causing huge error that is a nightmare to fix
This technique may work! Im going to try it now..Fingers crossed...
Great video, thanks!!!
Thanks for knowledge!
Genius
Hello, I have 2 questions for your, if you are si kind to answer me:
1) is it a Wood Installer Bit or it’s rather a Construction Installer Bit? In construction you could find steel bars into concrete.
2) Do you think those bits and method could be used on high density hard wood blocks such us Granadillo, Rosewood, Cocobolo wood for a 40 to 50 cm long straight hole?
Thank you very much. Your video is very useful to me.
Great video thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for sharing this simple and great method... I am planning on making flutes and would have to make a much wider hole. What bits would you use if you needed a 1+ inch hole? I can't seem to find the kind you show in this video for that diameter and length...
I've been working on 3 floating shelves for more than a month due to crooked holes in 11.5" shelves and even drilling into wall stud is crooked holes. Was ready tomorrow morning to lock the shelf to the drill press adjustment plate sideways in order to try and get the board level enough to drill a 6" straight hole. Your idea might be a lot easier and I am going to work on it tomorrow morning before I continue with my idea.
nice
thanks for the video, I need to insert a 1" galvanized pipe inside a fence post. can you share some idea on suitable bit, thanks
Great video, thanks. I've been looking everywhere for this solution for flute making. Will a brad point bit work, too, or will that also follow the grain and wander?
A smart method!
Good evening, sir.
Thank you for clip and tips.
I like your metal holder, i didnt saw anything like that, whatbis the name of that tool, or is it diy?
Next, can you tell me, is it possible to drill 30 cm hole in a piece of wood, if i want to make an instrument, like wooden flute? Like you do in this video clip. Ot, there is a better way.
Thank you very much.
hey will this work for hardwoods like Walnut? and drilling it to 3 ft deep?
I fucking love this trick. Thanks!
i did this 18" in from 1 side 18" from other and hit within 1/8"
Nice video but what about if need to drill mild steel deep and straight
Liked and subscribed! 😁🥳🥳
03:50 I would have started to drill with the extra guide block close to the workpiece first and then gradually withdraw it.
Great idea, could you please wear can I purchase a drill bit like that I only need to go 48 inches
Great video. I need to drill a 13.5" blind hole in a hickory dowel that is .375"+ in diameter. What drill bit would you recommend? I'm no good at grinding drill tips off of drill bits; I'd rather buy a pre-made one (or I'd pay you to do one for me).
Would this method work for a 50mm diameter hole at 100mm deep? and what bit would you use.
I take it the drill bit you used is most preferable, what is it called?
can someone explain to me how to drill a 4mm hole in a wooden stick that is 1cm in diameter and 10cm long

Drill a 10mm hole in any piece of wood (flat like a plywood), but dont drill thru!! Drill trhru with 4mm the bottom, stick the rod into it and drill 4mm from the opposite of the rod...
If it does make sense...
Good luck despite it's a year old question...😇