As someone that has been virtually forced to DIY all my home renovations and projects, i find Shannon and the House Improvements squad to be AMAZING at what they do. If professionals were a little more forthcoming with the scope and price of projects they did (especially for regular home owners), including actually taking on the task of doing small home fixture repairs (the way Con Drain used to do), then we wouldn't need to DIY so many things ourselves. Personally, i love House Improvements team. Way to go guys! You help us find solutions when we have little options left. Thank-you.
Funny how I have to do another DIY project and as soon as I see Shannon, I’m like… perfect! I am not sure why but I like the low key, trustworthiness Shannon has! So, if you’re still listening, thank you 🙏🏻!!
Looks good. Probably not going to leak but just a couple things to note for diyers who are going to attempt this (and I'm not trying to discourage anyone from trying). Always use primer on both sides of the part you're fitting before you glue it. When you glue PVC you want to also get a small amount of glue on the female side of the fitting. Then turn the pipe a quarter turn as you slide it into the fitting. Then make sure you hold it in place for about 45 seconds because it wants to push itself back out at first. I'm not saying these joints in the video will leak but they could. Always read the instructions on the glue to CYA. It's easy to do these steps and it ensures that it'll be effective and last! I hope this helps. I'm not bashing the installation. I think it's great that people take the time to record and post videos like this to help others out! I'm a remodeler and handyman myself and I don't have the time to do all the recording and editing needed to do that. So I salute those who do.
He's using ABS which doesn't need primer. 45 seconds is also way too long - 10 seconds is plenty. You're right that you should put glue on the pipe and fitting.
Doing a Reno of a 60 year old home. Very helpful, glad there’s people like you that takes the time to help uneducated people like myself in certain fields. We can be jack of all, but need the masters to fill in the none... Thanks!
This was great. I have a huge mess of all sorts of old stack cast iron pipes in my 1945 cottage and I thought: "what the heck lets just replace them all with new PVC pipes". This video finally gave me the confidence to do that! Thanx!
Shannon's channel coverage of many topics is the best I've seem - When i cut plastic pipe and use a boot i glue the uncut end and put the cut end in the boot , just me
Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share these videos! You are teaching me to fix my home so me and my family have a safe place to live. I cannot afford to pay a professional and there are many people in my situation that rely on educated professionals like you.
My husband and I just went into our basement to find a rather large hole in our cast iron pipe, so we hopped over to YT and found this. He said he watches your videos often and they're always helpful. We were able to run to Lowes and get everything repaired within 2 hours. Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks for the video! I’ll be doing a section of my sewer line tomorrow-cast iron to pvc. Stumbled upon one of your window videos years ago and it motivated me to do 12 replacement windows myself. Your videos I’m sure are helping a lot of people. Good stuff and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've been watching a lot of various plumbing how-to videos here on UA-cam and this is one of the very best. Excellent excellent excellent. From start to end, job well done. thanks
Thanks for this video. I'm removing my kitchen sink and cupboards and need to cut all of my pipes. This video gave me the confidence to do it myself and save lots of money. You're excellent at producing these DIY videos. I thank you.
Great Videos!! My dad always would do house repairs and I never wanted to learn. Now he is very elderly, and I wish I knew how to do these things. I am always intimidated seeing things in the house in need of repair. My dad always says not to worry about these things. Watching these video's are helping me finally understand and become less fearful of all the things in the house
If you can learn the safe and proper way to make home repairs you will save a literal fortune over the course of 50 years of home ownership. If you choose not to tackle a particular repair, at least you will know how it should be done and you will avoid being ripped off by a contractor that you hire. Practice makes perfect and it builds confidence for the next job.
This guy is good! I've watched his vids in the past, but had no idea he was so well versed in so many areas! He needs a DVD series, or an actual show. I would easily support either! Thanks for posting!
Thanks, your video helped! Cut a 3’ section of vertical drain pipe out , reached up into pipe near a junction and pulled out 10 years worth of dental floss, toilet works like a champ!
Hey Shannon great tutorial and as always great job my friend!! Just some friendly reminders to ensure your pipes are cut squarely and deburred, apply glue to both surfaces and after applying glue, give it a quarter turn and hold it for at least 15-20 seconds. I learned the hard way working with abs one day lol but anyhow we are all here to help each other out!!!
As a plumber, I got to say good job! Lots of people saying they would have used a angle grinder with an abrasive blade or diamond blade, while that would be my first choice, you have to be careful with the "black spray", plus the reciprocating saw is less likely to kick and hurt yourself. Ignore the haters. Hundred ways to sin a cat.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm in the process of remodeling our laundry room in the basement and there is a 3-inch cast pipe sticking up out of the floor and I needed to cut it and rough it in for a washer and a sink. Thank you very much
Hi, wonderful video first thank you for all you share with us, second I am a plumber maybe I would do somethings different, base on my background, location, the way I was trained, I am sure of your skills and I respect you for that. There is always some people who feel on top the world because they know something and they are always ready to take you down but when comes to share information they are mute, thank you again for your contribution and dont even reply those messages.
What you state is true,how ever what you state is not always the case.Many of us have a genuine interest in helping our fellow home owners which is why as a home owner and a Do-It-Yourself individual I try to pass on what I have learned to benefit the next person.On the house next door to me I saw a licensed plumber up on the roof chiseling a cast iron stack that had split down past the point where the cast iron stack entered the house and I felt bad for the guy so I assked him why didn't he use an angle grinder to cut the cast iron stack being that he was working on a sloped roof and working by himself.I expected the guy to tell me to buzz off but instead the guy asked me which angle grinder he should get and I told him about the nine inch angle grinder that Harbor Freight sells so the guy got off the roof,went to Harbor Freight which is not too far from here,bought a nine inch angle grinder and the poor guy couldn't thank me enough for having made his work so much easier because he had to cut down the cast iron stack in sections in order to safetly remove the cast iron stack being that he was working on a sloped roof.Many people will be thankful for the help and suggestions but then again unfortunately there will always be people who think that they are born geniouses that don't need advice or help from anyone.Don't make the mistake of coloring everyone with the same brush because more often than not you may find that people,even licensed people,will appreciate advice and suggestions.I am a licensed locksmith,I have been a licensed locksmith for many years now and even so I am not nor will I ever be above taking advice and suggestions from others because thank God,blessed and praised be His name,Amen.,I am wise enough to know better than to reject people's ideas and opinions.Refuse to keep an open mind and you only cheat yourself because more often than not there are always better ways of doing things,that's all there is to it.
"Diamonds are a guy's best friend!" Thanks for the video! 30 years ago I attempted to saw through some cast iron plumbing under the house with a carbide blade. I just got through the first pipe last week! Seriously, thanks for the tip on the diamond embedded blade--carbide is not the blade of choice! I've ordered a Bosch diamond recip blade from Amazon after watching your video. I only have one cut to make, but I understand that an angle grinder with a cutting wheel is the way to go if one has a lot of pipe to cut.
Yes the snap cutter is cheaper if you have access to one but most DIYers don't. Unless they find someone who rents them. You are right we could have saved the cast but we had to put in a vent up above so removed it all. Thanks for your comments.
thanks Sharon for taking your time to teach and show us once again...just thinking, i would have simply used a flexible Tee at the connection point so that wud eliminate extra cuts of ABS to attach to the top and bottom
Awesome video - thank you for making and posting this. Now I know HOW to cut cast iron, and I was unaware of that prior to this video. Good stuff! Thank you again!
Thank you for a great video. I would take the old piece outside and use as a guide, constructing new part while standing up in good light. Get out of dusty and moldy work spaces. Also, the 2 minutes it takes to stand up table saw are worth it, straight cuts that are very quick.
Great video. Thanks. I'm going to have to replace one that 2 sinks and a tub come into. In the middle of a wall! The 2 sink drains are on the 1st floor. The tub drain connects to the stack about 18" below in the basement. Should be loads of fun!
Your video helped my a lot when I was replacing my rotten drain tee! For cutting the pipe, I just used a cheap metal blade since my pipe was 1.5 inch, and it was fast too. Thanks again!
I just opened up my wall in my basement to reveal a cast iron pipe with some sort of a white flange that was used years ago to join cast iron to cast iron. It's been leaking and I've had some backups, I now can see roots and some soil at the base of the pipe. Makes me wonder if I'll need to go below the cement floor. Good video, thanks!
Thank you for the great tutorial and for sharing your experience! I will have to replace one of these 3" cast iron standpipes very soon and now I have confidence to do it!
I had the experience of dismantling work to remove part of the cast-iron cup for the sewer system of the installation in place 20 years ago. To do this, I used a saber saw and a metal cloth. I would like to clarify that the blade blunted in a minute and I had to make new incisions in 3-4 mm steps. After that I finished the work on removing the cast-iron pipe
thank you very much. you explain very clear and easy to understand. I am trying to learn how to split one cold water line into two, and thinking to do it myself. keep the good work
I like the video, a lot of good useful information on it. The fitting you used is actually called a sanitary tee due to the short radius bend on the branch. For the price of the one blade you could buy a grinder and though messy, it would last much longer than the blade but to each their own on that. The one complaint I have is that you used a rubber boot that is designed for underground use, when a shielded no hub fitting would be the better choice. The average do-it-yourselfer though should have a much easier time tackling this kind of job after watching your video, I commend you for the effort.
Knight Valle I wouldn't worry about methane. I'd also call your local tool rental and get a ratchet chain soil pipe cutter. They are fast quiet and clean.
looks good. only thing is your supposed to glue both the pipe and the fitting. the glue acts as a primer as well and eats the finish off the abs to prep it for the bond. your technically "chemical welding" abs when you glue it. other than that great job. I like watching other tradesmen work to see how I can improve.
You are absolutely right both the fitting and pipe must have the solvent applied. It is not a glue! Being a solvent it melts a little of the ABS therefore the 2 fittings must have the surface melted to create the best chemical bond.
The solvent can cause the rubber to decay. I've read on other videos that when you're using the rubber couplings you can go dry. When doing plastic to plastic you use the solvent.
@@jeromenewton2720 It is not a VENT pipe. This section of the stack handles waste water, so it is technically the "waste stack". Note that the Tee added is going to service a lavatory sink and handle waste. The upper portion of a stack that does not handle water is only intended to draw in air and that portion is called the "vent stack". The cement manufacturer instructs that cement should be applied to both, the outside of the pipe and the internal hub of the fitting in order to complete the bond. Failure to follow this procedure, even on a vent pipe will fail your inspection.
In my video I had already changed the upper pipe to ABS. If you were not removing that part you would need to support it some how with metal pipe strap or some other way to keep the weight held until you are finished.
Lenox carbide heavy metal blades work much better....tried both...high speed grinder is best....if u have the access...get what u can with grinder...finish with blade
Hi there, very informative video. I currently have a problem with a 4' section of cast toilet pipe that has split open and needs to be replaced. The pipe is vertical and in the corner of a room. The cast pipe is rusted and pitted on the outside, do you know if there is a way to still use a sleeve to connect to a replacement pipe in this situation or not? Can it be sanded down a bit to get some of the rust off of it, them sprayed with something to help seal the rust pits, then use a collar? Thanks, in advance.
At 9:10 min. You Pushed the pipe up to the roof, No, No, No, the fingers between? if the pipe comes down will cut themselves. I always watch your videos thanks.
Hi Shanon my vent cast iron goes down in to the main sewer the elbow that goes into the grown is rotted and I want to cut it and do pvc pipe, what should I use? can I just use a plastic boot to make the connection from cast iron to pvc or should I use something else? will the plastic boot hold the cast iron good enough? please advice me on this, I watch all of your videos thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
thank you for your video. This helps me with my current bathroom project. I am trying to move a toilet drain, but the current toilet goes right into the steel stack.
Thanks guys for the video! I have a CI pipe 4" I believe that just started leaking yesterday at the bell shaped connection is after the main sewer line became blocked, I plan on replacing that section of the CI. I have a question: Why in this repair did you choose ABS over PVC? Keep up the great videos. I always learn alot from your videos. Thank you ever so much.
I had to connect a sink drain to a similar situation. I bought a rubber pipe connector with hose clamps. It fit over the old iron pipe and clamped without leak. It stepped down to the abs ,sink drain and clamped without leak. Easy after that. Cheaper, faster. Those hose clamp connectors can cost a little extra but save lots of time, money and headache. I bet no one would complain about the shorts if it was a woman! I have the same problem. Just shows you’re lookin’.
Shannon, not sure if you covered it, but is there not risk of when butting the pipes With the water getting in between the cast pipe and the rubber sleeve?
Great video - thanks! Question: I'm moving a shower drain and replacing old cast iron with ABS. Do I have to be concerned about getting a straight cut when I cut out the cast (in other words, how important is it that the connection between the old cast pipe and the new ABS is flush)? I'm going to cut the cast with a recip saw, and I doubt that it will be perfectly straight. Thanks.
He had already replaced the cast iron pipe, that runs from the ceiling up through the attic and out the roof with an ABS pipe. So the pipe protruding down from the ceiling was ABS pipe. The join was solvent welded with a 3" ABS coupling. If the stack above was still cast iron, he would have made the joint with another rubber mechanical coupling, same as the one on the bottom.
Beyond what KIND of fittings to use on a sewer lateral: What is the projected lifespan of the fittings needed to transition from the TAP coming off the main sewer line, to ductile iron? And from Ductile, to ABS/PVC? PS: Is PVC preferred over ABS when buried? Max depth will be 6"10 @ main, 33 inches to center-line of 4' inch that comes thru foundation wall.
Great information! How is a 4 inch waste/vent stack supported above the ceiling or at the roof?..or is it? I have to cut out a cast wye fitting that's located just below the second story flooring and redirect it with a new fitting and add another connection below it. When I cut out that section, about 30 inches, is there anything supporting the 12 foot stack above it that travels up through the attic and roof? As mentioned, 4" cast has a considerable weight and I don't want it crashing down. Do I need to support it in an alternate way?
If you can't see the pipe in its entirety as it goes up thru the roof,then attach a 4" riser clamp on the pipe above where you are going to cut and secure that clamp well to the structure ,so that when you cut out the section below the clamp,the pipe above can't shift down.
Normally there will be connections in the pipe lengths and these have larger diameters. You can use metal strapping wrapped around the pipe under the larger sections and attached to roof framing to help support the weight.
I have to replace my cast iron pipe this week from the basement washroom up to my 2nd floor bathroom all the way to the toilet. Should I start from the bottom and work my way up with the new PVC or start at the top and work my way down? Thanks in advance.
Personally I would not replace it all from basement to 2nd floor unless it is over 100 yrs old and more, lol. Why you ask? Cast iron pipe does not resonate in the walls, therefore when the waste is draining you do not hear it. But when you replace with all plastic pipe, it will resonate and you will hear the water running down the pipe. I personally would replace the horizontal run, which are more problematic and in ground drain pipes. This is my personal opinion and may not be a common one.
Thanks for responding and the advice. The pipe is at least 80 years old. I have a crack on the 45 degree elbow in the basement, and the flange area in my upstairs bathroom is really corroding.
If noise is a concern, look into No-Hub cast iron. it assembles easy like PVC, and has the noise dampening property of heavy-weight cast iron pipe. Is also fire-resistant and lasts decades.
How much does this job cost? And is the top of the cast iron main held/supported by something on the first/second floor. Will all fall out after cutting?
Really to many variables that could be possible to give specific cost. Also many different situations so it is hard to say if your pipe will fall, use caution and presume it will.
Say I have a question. Is the cast iron pipe in the ceiling a vent pipe that was cut? If so how is the cast iron vent pipe held in place in the ceiling without falling straight down when cut?
Our forum is a good place to ask questions like this and we can help you from there. Please include the type of water supply pipes you have.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
how is that fernco coupling strong enough? the whole middle section is just rubber. I would have used underground ferncos with stainless steel reinforcement for extra reassurance.
good point, people always snivel when a pro makes a suggestion, if people were smart they would learn from the comments because you guys point out important mistakes, I googled the underground coupling and it's much better thanks
Kinda of an odd question here, but can that cast iron ever come in a copper/brass mix colour? The house I recently bought the washing machine drain is solid metal but doesn’t look like most of the cast iron pipes I’ve ever seen. Wanted to install a laundry sink and wanted to convert that drain into abs to tie the sink into
I understand this is diy but there’s a few things that will help do this better. First off I’m not sure the fernco will seal properly, it’s way too big for the CI. It would be better to use a cast iron to plastic transition coupling. Also a skil saw is probably not the best tool to cut pipe especially when you have a sawzall handy. The skilsaw left a lip from spinning the pipe. This can catch tp or other solids and block the pipe. You can use any sawzall blade and cut abs. Also with a solvent weld, you need to put glue and cleaner on both the fitting and the pipe. Though I’m familiar with pvc not abs so that could be different
The guy making this video is going to have a very stinky mess behind his walls before too long. UA-cam is full of videos done by people who don't really know what they are doing. Unfortunately most people believe everything they see on youtube the same way they believe everything they hear on the news or told to them by a politician. When you do criticize someone's favorite youtuber, the typical low IQ response is "Well, you upload a video doing better".
I know this is 6 yrs old, but in case anyone's watching, the glue should be applied to both sided.. it's more of a chemical weld and the glue preps the ABS for the weld. Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, but an avid DIY'er...Ddo your own research and don't make me your definitive source.
Plumber here , I know that this is an old video, but to all the diy’ers out there that see it- the Fernco couplings are NOT allowed inside of the building- only the two and four banded stainless steel clamps are approved. Also there is a no-hub to cast iron adapter that could be used here.
As someone that has been virtually forced to DIY all my home renovations and projects, i find Shannon and the House Improvements squad to be AMAZING at what they do. If professionals were a little more forthcoming with the scope and price of projects they did (especially for regular home owners), including actually taking on the task of doing small home fixture repairs (the way Con Drain used to do), then we wouldn't need to DIY so many things ourselves. Personally, i love House Improvements team. Way to go guys! You help us find solutions when we have little options left. Thank-you.
+Roberto Angelini You are welcome!
Shannon is one of my top 3 go to guys for DIY on UA-cam
Funny how I have to do another DIY project and as soon as I see Shannon, I’m like… perfect! I am not sure why but I like the low key, trustworthiness Shannon has! So, if you’re still listening, thank you 🙏🏻!!
Yay! Thank you!
I do plumbing regularly and I have never heard of this channel he seems like he would be a great teacher
Looks good. Probably not going to leak but just a couple things to note for diyers who are going to attempt this (and I'm not trying to discourage anyone from trying). Always use primer on both sides of the part you're fitting before you glue it. When you glue PVC you want to also get a small amount of glue on the female side of the fitting. Then turn the pipe a quarter turn as you slide it into the fitting. Then make sure you hold it in place for about 45 seconds because it wants to push itself back out at first. I'm not saying these joints in the video will leak but they could. Always read the instructions on the glue to CYA. It's easy to do these steps and it ensures that it'll be effective and last! I hope this helps. I'm not bashing the installation. I think it's great that people take the time to record and post videos like this to help others out! I'm a remodeler and handyman myself and I don't have the time to do all the recording and editing needed to do that. So I salute those who do.
He's using ABS which doesn't need primer. 45 seconds is also way too long - 10 seconds is plenty. You're right that you should put glue on the pipe and fitting.
Thats not PVC its ABS. And iv never ever seen a plumber prime ABS before hand. pVC yes you absolutely should prime before gluing
He also should technically have an expansion joint on that stack now. Abs has a high rate of expansion and can buckle without an expansion joint
I stand corrected! Thanks guys.
@@jareds1661what's an expansion joint?
Doing a Reno of a 60 year old home. Very helpful, glad there’s people like you that takes the time to help uneducated people like myself in certain fields. We can be jack of all, but need the masters to fill in the none...
Thanks!
This was great. I have a huge mess of all sorts of old stack cast iron pipes in my 1945 cottage and I thought: "what the heck lets just replace them all with new PVC pipes". This video finally gave me the confidence to do that! Thanx!
Shannon's channel coverage of many topics is the best I've seem - When i cut plastic pipe and use a boot i glue the uncut end and put the cut end in the boot , just me
Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share these videos! You are teaching me to fix my home so me and my family have a safe place to live. I cannot afford to pay a professional and there are many people in my situation that rely on educated professionals like you.
My husband and I just went into our basement to find a rather large hole in our cast iron pipe, so we hopped over to YT and found this. He said he watches your videos often and they're always helpful. We were able to run to Lowes and get everything repaired within 2 hours. Thanks for the informative video!
This guy has the best UA-cam channel
Thanks for the video! I’ll be doing a section of my sewer line tomorrow-cast iron to pvc. Stumbled upon one of your window videos years ago and it motivated me to do 12 replacement windows myself. Your videos I’m sure are helping a lot of people. Good stuff and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've been watching a lot of various plumbing how-to videos here on UA-cam and this is one of the very best. Excellent excellent excellent. From start to end, job well done. thanks
Thanks for this video. I'm removing my kitchen sink and cupboards and need to cut all of my pipes. This video gave me the confidence to do it myself and save lots of money. You're excellent at producing these DIY videos. I thank you.
Again thanks Shannon for the clear and limpid tuto,great job.
Great Videos!! My dad always would do house repairs and I never wanted to learn. Now he is very elderly, and I wish I knew how to do these things. I am always intimidated seeing things in the house in need of repair. My dad always says not to worry about these things. Watching these video's are helping me finally understand and become less fearful of all the things in the house
If you can learn the safe and proper way to make home repairs you will save a literal fortune over the course of 50 years of home ownership. If you choose not to tackle a particular repair, at least you will know how it should be done and you will avoid being ripped off by a contractor that you hire. Practice makes perfect and it builds confidence for the next job.
This guy is good! I've watched his vids in the past, but had no idea he was so well versed in so many areas! He needs a DVD series, or an actual show. I would easily support either! Thanks for posting!
Thanks, your video helped! Cut a 3’ section of vertical drain pipe out , reached up into pipe near a junction and pulled out 10 years worth of dental floss, toilet works like a champ!
Hey Shannon great tutorial and as always great job my friend!! Just some friendly reminders to ensure your pipes are cut squarely and deburred, apply glue to both surfaces and after applying glue, give it a quarter turn and hold it for at least 15-20 seconds. I learned the hard way working with abs one day lol but anyhow we are all here to help each other out!!!
Keep making videos like this. you’re relaxed and logical approach appreciated
Shannon has one of the best DIY channels on the internet. More videos!
As a plumber, I got to say good job! Lots of people saying they would have used a angle grinder with an abrasive blade or diamond blade, while that would be my first choice, you have to be careful with the "black spray", plus the reciprocating saw is less likely to kick and hurt yourself. Ignore the haters. Hundred ways to sin a cat.
thank you. Yes, there are always many ways to get the job done.
@@HouseImprovements why abs vs pvc?
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm in the process of remodeling our laundry room in the basement and there is a 3-inch cast pipe sticking up out of the floor and I needed to cut it and rough it in for a washer and a sink. Thank you very much
Hi, wonderful video first thank you for all you share with us, second I am a plumber maybe I would do somethings different, base on my background, location, the way I was trained, I am sure of your skills and I respect you for that.
There is always some people who feel on top the world because they know something and they are always ready to take you down but when comes to share information they are mute, thank you again for your contribution and dont even reply those messages.
What you state is true,how ever what you state is not always the case.Many of us have a genuine interest in helping our fellow home owners which is why as a home owner and a Do-It-Yourself individual I try to pass on what I have learned to benefit the next person.On the house next door to me I saw a licensed plumber up on the roof chiseling a cast iron stack that had split down past the point where the cast iron stack entered the house and I felt bad for the guy so I assked him why didn't he use an angle grinder to cut the cast iron stack being that he was working on a sloped roof and working by himself.I expected the guy to tell me to buzz off but instead the guy asked me which angle grinder he should get and I told him about the nine inch angle grinder that Harbor Freight sells so the guy got off the roof,went to Harbor Freight which is not too far from here,bought a nine inch angle grinder and the poor guy couldn't thank me enough for having made his work so much easier because he had to cut down the cast iron stack in sections in order to safetly remove the cast iron stack being that he was working on a sloped roof.Many people will be thankful for the help and suggestions but then again unfortunately there will always be people who think that they are born geniouses that don't need advice or help from anyone.Don't make the mistake of coloring everyone with the same brush because more often than not you may find that people,even licensed people,will appreciate advice and suggestions.I am a licensed locksmith,I have been a licensed locksmith for many years now and even so I am not nor will I ever be above taking advice and suggestions from others because thank God,blessed and praised be His name,Amen.,I am wise enough to know better than to reject people's ideas and opinions.Refuse to keep an open mind and you only cheat yourself because more often than not there are always better ways of doing things,that's all there is to it.
Your videos are always thorough and informative. Thank you.
Nice job. You gave me the courage to do it myself ill br following your instructions to the letter. Thanx from a guy who really appreciates it.
He has sooo many skills and demonstrates in a very clear manner….
Thanks!
You are welcome!
That might be a $30 blade good for only 3 cuts, but it saves a lot of money. Nice video. You got clean cuts which is important.
"Diamonds are a guy's best friend!" Thanks for the video! 30 years ago I attempted to saw through some cast iron plumbing under the house with a carbide blade. I just got through the first pipe last week! Seriously, thanks for the tip on the diamond embedded blade--carbide is not the blade of choice! I've ordered a Bosch diamond recip blade from Amazon after watching your video. I only have one cut to make, but I understand that an angle grinder with a cutting wheel is the way to go if one has a lot of pipe to cut.
Data downloaded! Thank you now I have the confidence to change mine in the basement. It leaks sometimes and looks rusty!
great video, i was remodeling our bathroom and had the same issue. took a little break and found your video!🖒
great.
Yes the snap cutter is cheaper if you have access to one but most DIYers don't. Unless they find someone who rents them. You are right we could have saved the cast but we had to put in a vent up above so removed it all. Thanks for your comments.
thanks Sharon for taking your time to teach and show us once again...just thinking, i would have simply used a flexible Tee at the connection point so that wud eliminate extra cuts of ABS to attach to the top and bottom
Thanks for sharing your expertise in cuts. Simple and educational for someone who is interested in going into this career.
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
Awesome video - thank you for making and posting this.
Now I know HOW to cut cast iron, and I was unaware of that prior to this video.
Good stuff! Thank you again!
great job. yes, some would glue both parts. Also, in my area, the rubber coupling needs to have a metal shield
Thank you for a great video. I would take the old piece outside and use as a guide, constructing new part while standing up in good light. Get out of dusty and moldy work spaces. Also, the 2 minutes it takes to stand up table saw are worth it, straight cuts that are very quick.
Great video. Thanks.
I'm going to have to replace one that 2 sinks and a tub come into. In the middle of a wall! The 2 sink drains are on the 1st floor. The tub drain connects to the stack about 18" below in the basement. Should be loads of fun!
Your video helped my a lot when I was replacing my rotten drain tee! For cutting the pipe, I just used a cheap metal blade since my pipe was 1.5 inch, and it was fast too. Thanks again!
Oh, nice video. I always find your videos helpful as I work on our 1940 Cape Cod style home.
So enjoyable watching you do your business. Good attitude.
Thanks for watching
I just opened up my wall in my basement to reveal a cast iron pipe with some sort of a white flange that was used years ago to join cast iron to cast iron. It's been leaking and I've had some backups, I now can see roots and some soil at the base of the pipe. Makes me wonder if I'll need to go below the cement floor. Good video, thanks!
Thank you for the great tutorial and for sharing your experience! I will have to replace one of these 3" cast iron standpipes very soon and now I have confidence to do it!
I had the experience of dismantling work to remove part of the cast-iron cup for the sewer system of the installation in place 20 years ago. To do this, I used a saber saw and a metal cloth. I would like to clarify that the blade blunted in a minute and I had to make new incisions in 3-4 mm steps. After that I finished the work on removing the cast-iron pipe
thank you very much. you explain very clear and easy to understand. I am trying to learn how to split one cold water line into two, and thinking to do it myself.
keep the good work
A boot! Thanks for the awesome video! Bless you!
Around here, the grounding wire goes on the copper pipe below the main shutoff. Cut the abs with a chopsaw, perfect cut every time.
Super educational…. How can I tell if my vertical pipe is galvanized, lead or cast iron material. House was built in the 40’s or 50’s. Thank you.
I like the video, a lot of good useful information on it. The fitting you used is actually called a sanitary tee due to the short radius bend on the branch. For the price of the one blade you could buy a grinder and though messy, it would last much longer than the blade but to each their own on that. The one complaint I have is that you used a rubber boot that is designed for underground use, when a shielded no hub fitting would be the better choice. The average do-it-yourselfer though should have a much easier time tackling this kind of job after watching your video, I commend you for the effort.
Thanks for your comments.
I am replacing same thing.I will use a grinder do i have to be conerned for metyane gases?
Knight Valle I wouldn't worry about methane. I'd also call your local tool rental and get a ratchet chain soil pipe cutter. They are fast quiet and clean.
Still the best videos. Thank you
Good job. Good safety with safety glasses and earplugs. Thank you.
Thank you for the videos. You explains projects in great detail.
looks good. only thing is your supposed to glue both the pipe and the fitting. the glue acts as a primer as well and eats the finish off the abs to prep it for the bond. your technically "chemical welding" abs when you glue it. other than that great job. I like watching other tradesmen work to see how I can improve.
You are absolutely right both the fitting and pipe must have the solvent applied. It is not a glue! Being a solvent it melts a little of the ABS therefore the 2 fittings must have the surface melted to create the best chemical bond.
The solvent can cause the rubber to decay. I've read on other videos that when you're using the rubber couplings you can go dry. When doing plastic to plastic you use the solvent.
Dave Rodriguez he’s not saying glue the rubber coupling. He’s saying glue both pipes when glueing them not just one of them
It is a VENT pipe! It just needs to stay in place. Applying glue to only one surface of a joint is adequate for a vent.
@@jeromenewton2720 It is not a VENT pipe. This section of the stack handles waste water, so it is technically the "waste stack". Note that the Tee added is going to service a lavatory sink and handle waste. The upper portion of a stack that does not handle water is only intended to draw in air and that portion is called the "vent stack". The cement manufacturer instructs that cement should be applied to both, the outside of the pipe and the internal hub of the fitting in order to complete the bond. Failure to follow this procedure, even on a vent pipe will fail your inspection.
In my video I had already changed the upper pipe to ABS. If you were not removing that part you would need to support it some how with metal pipe strap or some other way to keep the weight held until you are finished.
Lenox carbide heavy metal blades work much better....tried both...high speed grinder is best....if u have the access...get what u can with grinder...finish with blade
really good job on this video. i need to do this due to leak at top, i jb welded it for now but want to do it right, thanks !
Hi there, very informative video. I currently have a problem with a 4' section of cast toilet pipe that has split open and needs to be replaced. The pipe is vertical and in the corner of a room. The cast pipe is rusted and pitted on the outside, do you know if there is a way to still use a sleeve to connect to a replacement pipe in this situation or not? Can it be sanded down a bit to get some of the rust off of it, them sprayed with something to help seal the rust pits, then use a collar? Thanks, in advance.
I have to replace a rusted cast iron pipe soon. Thanks for the vid, glad I subscribed! Keep up the good work.
Great video, I have an ideal bend job needed at my home. This was very helpful. Thanks. You Rock!
Recommend a chopsaw for those cuts. The problem with your burrs is from the circular saw. It is not being held perpendicular to the pipe.
Fantastic video! You make it look so easy :) thanks for your help!
At 9:10 min. You Pushed the pipe up to the roof, No, No, No, the fingers between? if the pipe comes down will cut themselves. I always watch your videos thanks.
Hi Shanon my vent cast iron goes down in to the main sewer the elbow that goes into the grown is rotted and I want to cut it and do pvc pipe, what should I use? can I just use a plastic boot to make the connection from cast iron to pvc or should I use something else? will the plastic boot hold the cast iron good enough? please advice me on this, I watch all of your videos thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
thank you for your video. This helps me with my current bathroom project. I am trying to move a toilet drain, but the current toilet goes right into the steel stack.
Good job but when you behind the wall and you have no room what you do take the wall down ?
Very good video. Good lesson. Thanks for sharing.
Can you do this to raise a toilet flange by adding pvc in cast pipe to get to the desired height?
Thanks guys for the video! I have a CI pipe 4" I believe that just started leaking yesterday at the bell shaped connection is after the main sewer line became blocked, I plan on replacing that section of the CI. I have a question: Why in this repair did you choose ABS over PVC? Keep up the great videos. I always learn alot from your videos. Thank you ever so much.
Here ABS is more commonly used when not being buried, but PVC is used more commonly when it will be buried.
@@HouseImprovements Here ABS is against code. Very few places to find it. PVC is a better choice. It is a stronger pipe
I had to connect a sink drain to a similar situation. I bought a rubber pipe connector with hose clamps. It fit over the old iron pipe and clamped without leak. It stepped down to the abs ,sink drain and clamped without leak. Easy after that. Cheaper, faster. Those hose clamp connectors can cost a little extra but save lots of time, money and headache.
I bet no one would complain about the shorts if it was a woman! I have the same problem. Just shows you’re lookin’.
Shannon, not sure if you covered it, but is there not risk of when butting the pipes With the water getting in between the cast pipe and the rubber sleeve?
Yes that is likely to happen.
Great video - thanks! Question: I'm moving a shower drain and replacing old cast iron with ABS. Do I have to be concerned about getting a straight cut when I cut out the cast (in other words, how important is it that the connection between the old cast pipe and the new ABS is flush)? I'm going to cut the cast with a recip saw, and I doubt that it will be perfectly straight. Thanks.
Should be reasonably straight but does not need to be perfect.
Great advice. Wish you had explained what you used for the upper coupling on top of the new ABS.
He had already replaced the cast iron pipe, that runs from the ceiling up through the attic and out the roof with an ABS pipe. So the pipe protruding down from the ceiling was ABS pipe. The join was solvent welded with a 3" ABS coupling. If the stack above was still cast iron, he would have made the joint with another rubber mechanical coupling, same as the one on the bottom.
@@chrisgraham2904: Thanks for explaining, I was wondering about that myself
Beyond what KIND of fittings to use on a sewer lateral:
What is the projected lifespan of the fittings needed to transition from the TAP coming off the main sewer line, to ductile iron?
And from Ductile, to ABS/PVC?
PS: Is PVC preferred over ABS when buried? Max depth will be 6"10 @ main, 33 inches to center-line of 4' inch that comes thru foundation wall.
If you can't change the cast iron above, how do you support the weight of the remaining part going up?
I've learned so much from u I feel like I should be paying.
Great information! How is a 4 inch waste/vent stack supported above the ceiling or at the roof?..or is it? I have to cut out a cast wye fitting that's located just below the second story flooring and redirect it with a new fitting and add another connection below it. When I cut out that section, about 30 inches, is there anything supporting the 12 foot stack above it that travels up through the attic and roof? As mentioned, 4" cast has a considerable weight and I don't want it crashing down. Do I need to support it in an alternate way?
If you can't see the pipe in its entirety as it goes up thru the roof,then attach a 4" riser clamp on the pipe above where you are going to cut and secure that clamp well to the structure ,so that when you cut out the section below the clamp,the pipe above can't shift down.
And what if the existing cast iron stack will remain above into the attic and through the roof? How do you support all that weight?
Normally there will be connections in the pipe lengths and these have larger diameters. You can use metal strapping wrapped around the pipe under the larger sections and attached to roof framing to help support the weight.
What did you do with that pipe in the attic. How did you do that?
Thanks bro, your videos have been very helpful.
I have to replace my cast iron pipe this week from the basement washroom up to my 2nd floor bathroom all the way to the toilet. Should I start from the bottom and work my way up with the new PVC or start at the top and work my way down? Thanks in advance.
I would remove it starting at the top and then re-install starting at the bottom.
Personally I would not replace it all from basement to 2nd floor unless it is over 100 yrs old and more, lol. Why you ask? Cast iron pipe does not resonate in the walls, therefore when the waste is draining you do not hear it. But when you replace with all plastic pipe, it will resonate and you will hear the water running down the pipe. I personally would replace the horizontal run, which are more problematic and in ground drain pipes. This is my personal opinion and may not be a common one.
Thanks for responding and the advice. The pipe is at least 80 years old. I have a crack on the 45 degree elbow in the basement, and the flange area in my upstairs bathroom is really corroding.
If noise is a concern, look into No-Hub cast iron. it assembles easy like PVC, and has the noise dampening property of heavy-weight cast iron pipe. Is also fire-resistant and lasts decades.
Great job! We really find your videos helpful.
How much does this job cost? And is the top of the cast iron main held/supported by something on the first/second floor. Will all fall out after cutting?
Really to many variables that could be possible to give specific cost. Also many different situations so it is hard to say if your pipe will fall, use caution and presume it will.
I'm just trynna figure out if price I was quoted was fair or gouging. Thanks for your response.
Say I have a question. Is the cast iron pipe in the ceiling a vent pipe that was cut? If so how is the cast iron vent pipe held in place in the ceiling without falling straight down when cut?
I have a question about connecting abs to this cast iron connection that is 3 3/4 wide. It’s round and at the base of the floor..
Our forum is the best place for questions.
What couplings are recommended for pressurized water lines? Thanks!
Our forum is a good place to ask questions like this and we can help you from there. Please include the type of water supply pipes you have.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
the rubber coupling should be on the top not bottom, because the soil pipe will catch debris giving greater chance for stoppage
I just subscribed to you. Thumbs up for the great videos you post. All step by step, an excellent tutor!
I do not but others have said they do. More glue should not hurt anything.
Excellent video. Great job
how is that fernco coupling strong enough? the whole middle section is just rubber.
I would have used underground ferncos with stainless steel reinforcement for extra reassurance.
good point, people always snivel when a pro makes a suggestion, if people were smart they would learn from the comments because you guys point out important mistakes, I googled the underground coupling and it's much better thanks
What kind of coupling do you use when the drain is horizontal?
For cast Iron to ABS or PVC you would use the same thing . A Fernco coupling with metal jacket .
can you use metal angle grinder and what if the low pressure water pipes are cast iron? how do you repair those pipes?
Kinda of an odd question here, but can that cast iron ever come in a copper/brass mix colour? The house I recently bought the washing machine drain is solid metal but doesn’t look like most of the cast iron pipes I’ve ever seen. Wanted to install a laundry sink and wanted to convert that drain into abs to tie the sink into
its likely copper.
@@HouseImprovements didn’t think they used copper for such pipes with that sized diameter! Thanks for getting back :)
Thanks for this video but i'm wondering why you used ABS instead of PVC?
That is what is used here , mostly all ABS
need a video of how to replace cast in the attic and roof. this was helpful but, how do u make sure the roof vent is done correctly. ?
Gotta go on the roof and install a new flashing most times.
I understand this is diy but there’s a few things that will help do this better. First off I’m not sure the fernco will seal properly, it’s way too big for the CI. It would be better to use a cast iron to plastic transition coupling. Also a skil saw is probably not the best tool to cut pipe especially when you have a sawzall handy. The skilsaw left a lip from spinning the pipe. This can catch tp or other solids and block the pipe. You can use any sawzall blade and cut abs. Also with a solvent weld, you need to put glue and cleaner on both the fitting and the pipe. Though I’m familiar with pvc not abs so that could be different
The guy making this video is going to have a very stinky mess behind his walls before too long.
UA-cam is full of videos done by people who don't really know what they are doing. Unfortunately most people believe everything they see on youtube the same way they believe everything they hear on the news or told to them by a politician. When you do criticize someone's favorite youtuber, the typical low IQ response is "Well, you upload a video doing better".
So you have to worry about replacing the cast iron that is in the ground?
You may eventually but that stuff is pretty durable for many many years.
Good information, thanks. No need to apply glue to both ends of the abs connection?
I know this is 6 yrs old, but in case anyone's watching, the glue should be applied to both sided.. it's more of a chemical weld and the glue preps the ABS for the weld. Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, but an avid DIY'er...Ddo your own research and don't make me your definitive source.
Thanx so much. You’re a great teacher
Nicely presented. Thanks.
Plumber here , I know that this is an old video, but to all the diy’ers out there that see it- the Fernco couplings are NOT allowed inside of the building- only the two and four banded stainless steel clamps are approved.
Also there is a no-hub to cast iron adapter that could be used here.