Marc this was the absolute best video Crys and I have seen for starting our 1st reef tank. Thank you so much for showing us all your steps. Now we don't have as much anxiety about doing it right.
Great video Mark! I always like seeing the live shows. I wasn't able to watch live but it was still great content to watch a day latter. As always your build looks great.
Great setup. Makes my frag tank look like a sewer. Actually, if I am honest it makes my display tank look fairly poor too. Keep going with the videos, they are entertaining and informative. Cheers!
Your videos are so thorough and entertaining, I enjoy them. Your sumps are a fish keepers dream! I love all of your work. I'm also glad to see someone else loves Naso Tangs as much as me, in all your main display videos you make a mention of Spock, and I myself have a Naso, and love him/her so much! Keep the videos coming, and as always, great work my friend!
I am just starting out. I did the shrimp to start my cycle. you would be amazed on how many channels out there who tell you what you did...but don't tell you how long to leave shrimp in. one guy said leave it in until it was gone. I thought that might make the process go on much longer. Thanks so much for much needed info.
I cycled mine by leaving it in, and the cycle completed in 3 weeks. I think both ways will produce bacteria for the full cycle, however leaving it in will end with a larger bacteria population.
Years ago I cycled my tanks with some cold water seaweed. I scrubbed it down then dipped it. it rotted away in two days and it turns water brownish. Works a Treat and releases trace elements.
Marc, once again absolutely great video ... I had been to your website and you have some great stuff on there .... Setting a reef is what i would like to try the moment I get back to Saudi ....
Great play by play. . The live shows are great when you have such a popular topic. how about reviewing the anemone system. ? That's a marvel of a tank.. Your vids always make me want to start a new project.
Be excited. Anytime you set up something new, the build process is exciting. You always learn from what you've done and you do it better this go-round.
Great video. Your explanations are clear and easy to follow. I've been doing research for months to setup my 55g (which is still sitting in my living room floor as I go back and forth on my design plans). Curious why you do not implement Bean Animal overflow? Seems your frag tank and 400g display tank use multiple durso's? Also, combining the two overflows and reducing the flow to the refugium using a ball valve is quite an interesting idea... I was going to plumb a T from the return pump into the refugium section, but your method seems to eliminate the need of a T, which simplifies the plumbing somewhat... Also reserves more power for the return pump, which will give my carbon reactor more push if I need it to.
I definitely had room for a Bean Animal overflow, and I considered it but didn't *need* it. I've always used Durso standpipes. Super easy to make, no maintenance, no issues. It just works. I could theoretically change the drains on the 400g to a bean system (maybe) if it didn't affect how the fourth drain fed the refugium on that system.... but again everything is working so I don't have a need to change it. Using gravity to feed the different zones is convenient. And as you noted, frees up the return pump to do its job, and/or feed extra gear.
I acually run a very simple setup with HOB filtration with a skimmer and power heads. Should I turn all off in the beginning ? Never cycled with shrimp and giving it a go. Thanks.
Hey Marc, great vid! Yes more live vids! That's cool and means more content for us :)My question: why didn't you cycle this tank with your own live rock from your main tank? What's the benefit to doing it from scratch?
Good question. The live rock in my big reef is taken though, I didn't have any to sacrifice since it is covered in corals. And I wanted to document cycling, something I hadn't done in a very long time. Most of my tanks builds have all been transfers to newer bigger tanks. The last cycle I did was 1998. :)
Do you remember the Oldcastle Play Sand that they used to sell at Home Depot back in the day? Well i bought a few bags of it and now I'm getting ready to set up a reef tank. Is this sand good for the tank? It's been years since I bought it.
loved the video marc, but i need some help! in case i don't have a skimmer because its a nano reef tank, what should i do after i pull out the shrimp? do you have any advice? im counting on you to help me with this..
I notice your sumps don't have filter socks to get the initial waste particles out before entering your sump. Is this talked about anywhere in your videos?
Yes, I do have a sandbed in all my tanks. The few particulates I see blowing around is likely food for something in my reef, so I don't try to remove every last bit.
Hi Marc, love your videos! I have a question for ya. I am setting up a sump after having used a canister for 2 years. I have invested in a refugium light and also a gfo reactor. do you recommend having both a gfo reactor and the refugium running in a sump?
Hi, you have an astonishing setup and the information you have provided is excellent. I'm a new reefer and will be cycling my tank for the first time in a month or so. I would like to know when you added the shrimp is there any particular length of time it needs to remain in there, also would it be ok to add dry rock at the same time? Thanks
Leave it in there for three days, then remove it. You can put the dry rock in the tank whenever you like, just know that it takes a really long time for it to be part of the beneficial filtration... it's really just a place to attach corals during the early months.
awesome videos.... i Love all of them.... BTW what skimmer do you use for 60 and can u provide dimension ..... I am planning to upgrade on mine 50 gallon cube same as your anemone tank..... I have sca 300 rated upto 60 gallon but it is ok not that great.
i actually like the sump idea of having one part of the flowing to the skimmer and the other to the sump. i guess that helps critters and even larvae from the main display to potentially survive and get back in the main tank. i am considering to start into the reef hobby and by one of the complete sets of RS (can i mention the name here?). However i am not happy wither their sump solution, since it doesn't allow a sump in the smaller versions. do you offer sumps for those systems inlcuding a sump area?
This is a great video. How does your floor not get wet if your float switch to shut off your rodi water float switch malfunctions. I am a bit confused.
+lildeena1 The float valve stops the flow of water, keeping the floor dry. But once it is full, I physically close an online ball valve to shut off the RODI system for about a week. I refill the reservoir once a week.
@@LuisDominguez-js9pr Once you pull out the shrimp after few days rotting, don't do water change until the cycle is completed. The idea is to let the bacteria to grow when ammonia is presence(nitrosomonas bacteria will eat n process the ammonia). After that, u get a nitrite spike where 2nd group of bacteria(nitrobacter) converting nitrite into nitrate(last stage). You only do water change after u have ZERO ammonia and nitrite, certain amount of nitrates. U do water change to export the leftover nitrates, they usually high indicating cycling is completed. Hope this help
I have a great article for newbies, which has a number of links included to other writeups and some of my videos. Here's the link: www.melevsreef.com/node/1983
Looks really nice and tidy Marc. How did you glue the pvc pipe to your Vectra. I see many are having no issues using just PVC cement while others say to use transition cement.
I used Oatey's clear primer/cleaner and then Oatey's all purpose PVC cement (red label). I knew that connection was going to be an important one since that blue part is only 3/4" deep, rather than 1.25" to 1.5" deep with normal PVC connections. I placed a sheet of cardboard on the concrete floor, and once the glue was applied to both parts, I pressed the PVC firmly into the blue fitting and held it against that cardboard surface for a few seconds, then quickly checked it, wiping away excess solvent, then back against the cardboard and pressed down hard for about 15 more seconds. That was it. I wanted it 100% seated, and was able to accomplish my goal.
Wow gotta say your definition of a frag tank seems quite different than what I'm used to. You seem to basically make a reef tank where you put frags in it, instead of the standard barebottom affair with egg crate and maybe a couple USEFUL fish (pest pickers, algae munching, not cardinal fish)
Yeah, I have a buddy that gives me hell because I decorate my frag tanks. "Sand?!" "Rocks?!" I think about his comments frequently, but I know what I like looking at. Plus, this is my setup so I might as well do what I want with my own money and time. lol
I know this is an old video, but wondering why not use water from main reef, like from a water change, to set up this tank? Wouldnt that really reduce any cycling? Also, couldnt you have added the dry rock into the main reef, or sump so rock would be ready to go without cycling the tank? Just curious.
The cycle isn't in the water, and if you use tank water you just move the issues from one system to the new one. Like high nitrate, high phosphates, lowered alkalinity, lack of iodine, etc. The cycle is mainly about bacteria, converting ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. So using tank water and dry rock wouldn't really help get a new tank going, it would just idle and do nothing at all. You'd still have to add something to cycle it, like Dr Tims, Fritz Turbostart, ATM's Colony, or a shrimp. :)
I followed your methods cycling the tank. I still didn’t get any diatom showing up. I have my light turned off for several three weeks during this process. Did you turn on the light at some point after taking out the shrimp in order diatom showed up on your tank
So I got mysis shrimp cubes. I was told to put 2 to 3 cubes in to start the cycle in my new 32 gal. So I turn off the filter, leave the powerhead on and let the cycle process begin, right? (Sidenote: I already added half a pound of live rock to the filter, 20 lbs of live sand and bio spira a day ago)
Question about your cycle You tank take 23 days for the full cycle? I set up my new tank and my is 28 days and still nitrete is 5.0ppm my ammonia is 0 nitrate is 2.0ppm I know different tank is different but, I’m doing ok?👌🏼
Why I can't keep shrimp in my tank, all my parameters are perfect, except my calcium and magnesium are high, everytime I buy shrimp they all die, I upgraded my 29g biocube to Red Sea reefer 350( total vol. 91). I hope you have any idea. Ty
You'll need to tell me all your tank parameters before I can answer that. My first guess is that the tank might have been used previously, and someone used copper for treatment. Copper gets in the silicone, and after that happens inverts never live. They are very sensitive to Cu. But that's a guess based merely on what you shared thus far.
The SmartATO Micro has a tiny siphon-break fitting included in the kit. When I opened that package and saw that, I was so impressed/excited that I wrote Coralvue an email instantly to commend them for that foresight. In your situation, what you want to do is raise the output tubing higher than the water line in the top off bucket, and let it trickle down into your sump from up high. This will prevent siphoning. Under my 400g, I used a clear vertical "riser tube" to contain the water trickling down. You can see the pictures in my blog entry: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/1362-Aquahub-s-Auto-Top-It-Off-kit
I've had 2 small shrimp in my 40 breeder trying to cycle for 20 days now....shrimp are still in and i havent seen any nitrite yet....ammonia only got up tp 1.0ppm.....nitrates are high but i think my rodi needs filters changed....any advice would help?
Marc, is a refugium a must in a reef tank, I have a 65g reef.. About 100 pieces of coral, mostly lps, and 11 fish.. Sump is separate from the tank. I ran all the plumbing into my basement.. I have a carbon and gfo reactor, reef octopus skimmer, and I'm getting ready to set up the apex system, along with upgrading my current ai sol lights to the hydra 52's. I'm up on my maintenance weekly, and thought a refugium would be a great addition, but do I need it?
I like a refugium on my systems, but you may not actually *need* one. If you begin to see quite a bit of algae growing in your tank, then adding a refugium can compete with the micro-algae in your setup. That's been my experience. Plus you have a place to grow pods, and live food is always beneficial to your livestock.
Why not just pure ammonia to start the cycle? Starts the cycle the same without having to wait so long for ammonia to release. And without all the dirty breakdown of the shrimp?
The raw shrimp method is one way that works. That's why I demonstrated it. I've personally never tried pouring ammonia in a tank. But three days later you pull the carcass - it's not dirty to me. Just slimy. ;)
Yes. Don’t run the lights, no filtration, just let it ferment. Remove the carcass. Once the cycle has completed, you can do a water change and start up your skimmer, run carbon, etc.
I just started my 35 gallon but I messed up and put way too much salt in my water I did rodi and I took more than half the water out my tank and I'm making more rodi water now would this mess my cycle up I'm using dry rock and before I took the water out I had the heater and flow maker running for about 13 hrs
No, it won't mess it up necessarily. The change in salinity could affect some bacteria production. It's best to mix up your saltwater in a separate container, then compare the salinity, temperature and pH of the new saltwater to your display tank's water and get those to match... BEFORE you change any water.
I don't like cleaning socks, so I hardly ever use any. If there is a need, I'll rig up something temporarily, but then that means I'll have to clean the sock later. That's heavy incentive not to use any. lol
You take the shrimp out after the ammonia spike? I am on day 4 with the shrimp in and there definitely is a spike! Around 3/4ppm. i've read that you should keep the shrimp in throughout the entire cycle but I am very new to this hobby. Should I take the shrimp out? Thank you!
Nowadays you can buy real pacific ocean water at the pet store. 5 gallons for about 12 dollars. In other words, skip the cycling. I've done this on several saltwater tanks with half this and half mixed saltwater. No problems at all. Also can purchase "by the gallon" at some saltwater fish stores. Bring your own buckets!
I don't use filter socks in any of my systems. I can't stand cleaning them, to keep it short. Here's my longer blog: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/29179-Cleaned-the-filter-socks-(sounds-boring-right-)
I don't understand which part you are referencing, sorry. Once the full cycle has completed, you can perform a water change and then turn on the skimmer.
@@TheTechHazard Gotcha. Just remove the shrimp and let the tank cycle. When the cycle is COMPLETE (weeks later), turn on the skimmer so it can pull out the crap in the system like you saw in the video 20 seconds later.
How do you keep your auto top off from syphoning into the sump even when it's off. When the water level in my top off bucket is higher than the end of the hose in the sump, it will keep syphoning.
The SmartATO Micro has a tiny siphon-break fitting included in the kit. When I opened that package and saw that, I was so impressed/excited that I wrote Coralvue an email instantly to commend them for that foresight. In your situation, what you want to do is raise the output tubing higher than the water line in the top off bucket, and let it trickle down into your sump from up high. This will prevent siphoning. Under my 400g, I used a clear vertical "riser tube" to contain the water trickling down. You can see the pictures in my blog entry: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/1362-Aquahub-s-Auto-Top-It-Off-kit
I used some in my 29g waaaay back in 1998. But I needed to do an article on cycling, so I didn't buy anything like BioSpira or other bacteria in a bottle. ;) That article is here: www.melevsreef.com/cycle I could have added the other stuff, had I had it on hand. Or made a run to the LFS. ;) But it was just a frag system, and I didn't think it was necessary at the time.
@@carliemercado5357 are you supposed to do a partial water change when you take the shrimp out because it's day 4 for with a 4.0 ammonia level am I don't know what to do?
Hey, thanks for the video. Did you get any diatom or green algae? I'm cycling my 210g for almost a month now and ammonia has gone down, but nitrite is now up to 5.0. I've been waiting for the nitrite to go back down for almost 2 weeks. Does that sound right? Diatom is pretty bad and needs to be cleaned from the glass daily. The only reason I'm a little worried is because I've been adding the fluvia bacteria to speed up the process to no avail. 210 gallons with led running at 85%,skimmer is also running and I have some chromis because the shrimp smell was pissing my wife off.
Are you sure you are measuring Nitrite, and not Nitrate? Sorry I know what that sounds like, but Nitrite usually drops pretty quickly. I'd stop adding anything for the time being and let it finish. A normal cycle takes 3-4 weeks to complete, so for now I'd just let it conclude, then you can turn on the skimmer and start adding livestock.
The nitrite finally started to drop. I did a small water change and it seems to have kick started the change. Its been dropping for the last 3 days and i'm looking forward to getting off work today and seeing where the levels sit. Haven't lost any fish through the cycle. 10 chromis and 2 mocha clown. Seem very happy. Next I'm looking to add anthias and a carbon and gmo reactor. Thanks again for the vids
couldn't I "save" my water from "water changes" and use for setting up a larger tank? The water is,already cycled...right? or would this not b a good way...?
No, don't use used water in your next tank. It could have deficits (low alk, low calcium, high phosphate, high nitrate). Start off right, and start the cycle.
After it has rotted for three days, you can remove it. You do not change water... you keep measuring ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to see the cycle progress. After 72 hours, you should see an increase in Ammonia, and that should last several days before it collapses. Nitrite then rises, and falls more quickly than Ammonia did, and when it hits zero, Nitrate should begin to show up in your testing.
@@melevsreef hello, sorry to bother again but for the last 2 days I realized that my pH has dropped to 6.2 and I read on a different article that I must add at least 20% dechlorinated water to the tank to raise the pH so the cycle can continue. is this true or will ruin my cycle completely?
For Alkalinity, I'm using baked baking soda (Soda Ash once it is baked). For calcium, I use Fritz Calcium chloride. And for magnesium, I'm using Magnesium Pronto by Two Little Fishies.
Marc this was the absolute best video Crys and I have seen for starting our 1st reef tank. Thank you so much for showing us all your steps. Now we don't have as much anxiety about doing it right.
Great video Mark! I always like seeing the live shows. I wasn't able to watch live but it was still great content to watch a day latter. As always your build looks great.
Great setup. Makes my frag tank look like a sewer. Actually, if I am honest it makes my display tank look fairly poor too.
Keep going with the videos, they are entertaining and informative.
Cheers!
Also that sump idea is so smart. That kinda solves the debate of the skimmer and refugium getting raw tank water.
Your videos are so thorough and entertaining, I enjoy them. Your sumps are a fish keepers dream! I love all of your work.
I'm also glad to see someone else loves Naso Tangs as much as me, in all your main display videos you make a mention of Spock, and I myself have a Naso, and love him/her so much!
Keep the videos coming, and as always, great work my friend!
Thanks Kevin. :)
cool video Mel! I love watching these kinds of videos watching people go through their own personal & meticulous way of setting up a tank
I am just starting out. I did the shrimp to start my cycle. you would be amazed on how many channels out there who tell you what you did...but don't tell you how long to leave shrimp in. one guy said leave it in until it was gone. I thought that might make the process go on much longer. Thanks so much for much needed info.
I cycled mine by leaving it in, and the cycle completed in 3 weeks. I think both ways will produce bacteria for the full cycle, however leaving it in will end with a larger bacteria population.
That's sick bro keep it up. Just starting to get back into the hobby giving me some ideas and improvements to make to my tanks
Great video keep these up. These are making me want to get back to this hobby.
Years ago I cycled my tanks with some cold water seaweed. I scrubbed it down then dipped it. it rotted away in two days and it turns water brownish. Works a Treat and releases trace elements.
I love this set up...it's really clean and beautiful.. Really nicely done.
That's a very nice looking setup, 👍
I used a few chunks of reef frenzy every other day to start mine. It took a while but it cycled.
I'm new to saltwater and thank you for the info for everything
Thanks for the shoutout Marc, and as always the inspiration.
More live shows! That was awesome to watch and you are an ocean of information
Thanks!
Marc, once again absolutely great video ... I had been to your website and you have some great stuff on there .... Setting a reef is what i would like to try the moment I get back to Saudi ....
Beautiful setup! So nice and clean, wish i had the room for a frag tank!
A great video with easily understood information. You know how to do that well.
Thanks!
Great video Marc. Keep them coming this one starting me thinking which can only mean trouble....lol
Great play by play. . The live shows are great when you have such a popular topic. how about reviewing the anemone system. ? That's a marvel of a tank.. Your vids always make me want to start a new project.
Looks great, Marc!!!
Nice looking frag tank, i'm so jealous of that extra space ;) keep the vids rolling
tank looks well tidy
Just about to set up my first frag tank. 15g so not as impressive. However, i'm pretty excited. Well done Marc.
Be excited. Anytime you set up something new, the build process is exciting. You always learn from what you've done and you do it better this go-round.
really love your videos, Marc... as always awesome looking tank!!
Great data thank you
Very nice
Great video. Your explanations are clear and easy to follow. I've been doing research for months to setup my 55g (which is still sitting in my living room floor as I go back and forth on my design plans). Curious why you do not implement Bean Animal overflow? Seems your frag tank and 400g display tank use multiple durso's?
Also, combining the two overflows and reducing the flow to the refugium using a ball valve is quite an interesting idea... I was going to plumb a T from the return pump into the refugium section, but your method seems to eliminate the need of a T, which simplifies the plumbing somewhat... Also reserves more power for the return pump, which will give my carbon reactor more push if I need it to.
I definitely had room for a Bean Animal overflow, and I considered it but didn't *need* it. I've always used Durso standpipes. Super easy to make, no maintenance, no issues. It just works. I could theoretically change the drains on the 400g to a bean system (maybe) if it didn't affect how the fourth drain fed the refugium on that system.... but again everything is working so I don't have a need to change it.
Using gravity to feed the different zones is convenient. And as you noted, frees up the return pump to do its job, and/or feed extra gear.
Great video, keep doing live shows.
Super useful video... thanks!!!
Marc to be double sure of level .turn the level round end for end . It's a carpenter s trick . To check level is accurate. I'm a carpenter of 30 yrs
Very good video Melev!(is that your 1st name??) You certainly know your stuff👍👍😀
Great video!
Beautiful sump
Great video, thanks....
I love it!
I acually run a very simple setup with HOB filtration with a skimmer and power heads. Should I turn all off in the beginning ? Never cycled with shrimp and giving it a go. Thanks.
Hey Marc, great vid! Yes more live vids! That's cool and means more content for us :)My question: why didn't you cycle this tank with your own live rock from your main tank? What's the benefit to doing it from scratch?
Good question. The live rock in my big reef is taken though, I didn't have any to sacrifice since it is covered in corals. And I wanted to document cycling, something I hadn't done in a very long time. Most of my tanks builds have all been transfers to newer bigger tanks. The last cycle I did was 1998. :)
Do you remember the Oldcastle Play Sand that they used to sell at Home Depot back in the day? Well i bought a few bags of it and now I'm getting ready to set up a reef tank. Is this sand good for the tank? It's been years since I bought it.
loved the video marc, but i need some help! in case i don't have a skimmer because its a nano reef tank, what should i do after i pull out the shrimp? do you have any advice? im counting on you to help me with this..
Nice video thank you
Great video, do you keep the skimmer off during cycling? thanks for your advice!
I notice your sumps don't have filter socks to get the initial waste particles out before entering your sump. Is this talked about anywhere in your videos?
Hey, I was just wondering how you get away from the filter socks. Are you using a sand substrate? How are the floating debris removed?
Yes, I do have a sandbed in all my tanks. The few particulates I see blowing around is likely food for something in my reef, so I don't try to remove every last bit.
We're all awesome huh?! Well thank you kind sir! lol
Hi Marc, love your videos! I have a question for ya. I am setting up a sump after having used a canister for 2 years. I have invested in a refugium light and also a gfo reactor. do you recommend having both a gfo reactor and the refugium running in a sump?
When will you do an update and explain how this all works together as a system?
Shouldn't your plumbing pipes be more on an angle for water to flow better? Especially the one coming from the refugium? Just curious.
Gravity pulls it down. It doesn't need to be sloped.
How long after putting water in do u add shrimp
What type of water did you add? Is is regular water, salt water or RO with salt mix? If there was a salt mix which one did you use?
I use RODI water with Aquavitro's Salinity salt mix.
Hi, you have an astonishing setup and the information you have provided is excellent. I'm a new reefer and will be cycling my tank for the first time in a month or so. I would like to know when you added the shrimp is there any particular length of time it needs to remain in there, also would it be ok to add dry rock at the same time? Thanks
Leave it in there for three days, then remove it. You can put the dry rock in the tank whenever you like, just know that it takes a really long time for it to be part of the beneficial filtration... it's really just a place to attach corals during the early months.
melevsreef thanks for your response 👍
awesome videos.... i Love all of them.... BTW what skimmer do you use for 60 and can u provide dimension ..... I am planning to upgrade on mine 50 gallon cube same as your anemone tank..... I have sca 300 rated upto 60 gallon but it is ok not that great.
The Nyos skimmer on the 60g is the Quantum 120. It is 6" x 8.25" x 18.5" and is working really well.
i actually like the sump idea of having one part of the flowing to the skimmer and the other to the sump. i guess that helps critters and even larvae from the main display to potentially survive and get back in the main tank. i am considering to start into the reef hobby and by one of the complete sets of RS (can i mention the name here?). However i am not happy wither their sump solution, since it doesn't allow a sump in the smaller versions. do you offer sumps for those systems inlcuding a sump area?
+Han-Z Waligurke Let me know what size you have room for and I'll try to make what you need.
This is a great video. How does your floor not get wet if your float switch to shut off your rodi water float switch malfunctions. I am a bit confused.
+lildeena1 The float valve stops the flow of water, keeping the floor dry. But once it is full, I physically close an online ball valve to shut off the RODI system for about a week. I refill the reservoir once a week.
Do also an update on your friend's 1000 gallon ;)
That will definitely happen. :)
Nicely set up sir! Can I just leave the entire shrimp to rot? Coz that's my LFS told me when doing the cycling to leave it
Rott Weilar Leave it in there three or four days, then pull it out.
once you take the shrimp out are you supposed to do a water change?
@@LuisDominguez-js9pr Once you pull out the shrimp after few days rotting, don't do water change until the cycle is completed. The idea is to let the bacteria to grow when ammonia is presence(nitrosomonas bacteria will eat n process the ammonia). After that, u get a nitrite spike where 2nd group of bacteria(nitrobacter) converting nitrite into nitrate(last stage). You only do water change after u have ZERO ammonia and nitrite, certain amount of nitrates. U do water change to export the leftover nitrates, they usually high indicating cycling is completed. Hope this help
@@nicholassoong1981 It certainly helped. Thank You so much!!!
I love your channel! I'm new to the hobby...any tips for beginners????
I have a great article for newbies, which has a number of links included to other writeups and some of my videos. Here's the link: www.melevsreef.com/node/1983
And of course, keep watching. I'll be doing some videos for beginners too.
Looks really nice and tidy Marc. How did you glue the pvc pipe to your Vectra. I see many are having no issues using just PVC cement while others say to use transition cement.
I used Oatey's clear primer/cleaner and then Oatey's all purpose PVC cement (red label). I knew that connection was going to be an important one since that blue part is only 3/4" deep, rather than 1.25" to 1.5" deep with normal PVC connections. I placed a sheet of cardboard on the concrete floor, and once the glue was applied to both parts, I pressed the PVC firmly into the blue fitting and held it against that cardboard surface for a few seconds, then quickly checked it, wiping away excess solvent, then back against the cardboard and pressed down hard for about 15 more seconds. That was it. I wanted it 100% seated, and was able to accomplish my goal.
Wow gotta say your definition of a frag tank seems quite different than what I'm used to. You seem to basically make a reef tank where you put frags in it, instead of the standard barebottom affair with egg crate and maybe a couple USEFUL fish (pest pickers, algae munching, not cardinal fish)
Yeah, I have a buddy that gives me hell because I decorate my frag tanks. "Sand?!" "Rocks?!" I think about his comments frequently, but I know what I like looking at. Plus, this is my setup so I might as well do what I want with my own money and time. lol
I know this is an old video, but wondering why not use water from main reef, like from a water change, to set up this tank? Wouldnt that really reduce any cycling? Also, couldnt you have added the dry rock into the main reef, or sump so rock would be ready to go without cycling the tank?
Just curious.
The cycle isn't in the water, and if you use tank water you just move the issues from one system to the new one. Like high nitrate, high phosphates, lowered alkalinity, lack of iodine, etc. The cycle is mainly about bacteria, converting ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. So using tank water and dry rock wouldn't really help get a new tank going, it would just idle and do nothing at all. You'd still have to add something to cycle it, like Dr Tims, Fritz Turbostart, ATM's Colony, or a shrimp. :)
See, i learn something new all the time, thanks for the reply, and the information
1:21 ROFLMAO! "It shinny so it won't rot".
can we see your friends 1000 gallon reef, a complete tour?
Yes, at some point I'll be doing a video about that setup. I need to visit him anyway. :)
I followed your methods cycling the tank. I still didn’t get any diatom showing up. I have my light turned off for several three weeks during this process. Did you turn on the light at some point after taking out the shrimp in order diatom showed up on your tank
Lighting isn't necessary. What was your highest ammonia measurement?
awesome video. I never thought of using dead shrimp to cycle a tank will it work for freshwater
I don't know the answer since I've never kept freshwater, but you could probably ask any freshwater hobbyist or shop first, just to confirm.
So I got mysis shrimp cubes. I was told to put 2 to 3 cubes in to start the cycle in my new 32 gal. So I turn off the filter, leave the powerhead on and let the cycle process begin, right? (Sidenote: I already added half a pound of live rock to the filter, 20 lbs of live sand and bio spira a day ago)
For a 32g tank, I'd get a full shrimp like the video showed. I don't think a few cubes of fishfood are going to do it.
Question about your cycle
You tank take 23 days for the full cycle?
I set up my new tank and my is 28 days and still nitrete is 5.0ppm my ammonia is 0 nitrate is 2.0ppm I know different tank is different but, I’m doing ok?👌🏼
Why I can't keep shrimp in my tank, all my parameters are perfect, except my calcium and magnesium are high, everytime I buy shrimp they all die, I upgraded my 29g biocube to Red Sea reefer 350( total vol. 91). I hope you have any idea. Ty
You'll need to tell me all your tank parameters before I can answer that. My first guess is that the tank might have been used previously, and someone used copper for treatment. Copper gets in the silicone, and after that happens inverts never live. They are very sensitive to Cu. But that's a guess based merely on what you shared thus far.
It looks like your ATO water line is higher than your sump water level. How does it not syphon into the sump?
The SmartATO Micro has a tiny siphon-break fitting included in the kit. When I opened that package and saw that, I was so impressed/excited that I wrote Coralvue an email instantly to commend them for that foresight. In your situation, what you want to do is raise the output tubing higher than the water line in the top off bucket, and let it trickle down into your sump from up high. This will prevent siphoning. Under my 400g, I used a clear vertical "riser tube" to contain the water trickling down. You can see the pictures in my blog entry: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/1362-Aquahub-s-Auto-Top-It-Off-kit
How much sand was that that you used in terms of weight?
About 70 lbs.
Do you use API test kits for all your water testing, or just during a cycle?
For the cycle primarily. I use Elos for my regular water testing.
hey melev....have you tried the zetlight 6600A series light?do you think the price is worth the light to have a good looking reef tank?
I've seen them during my travels, but don't have any specific feedback to offer. Check the reviews on BRS, and decide for yourself.
I've had 2 small shrimp in my 40 breeder trying to cycle for 20 days now....shrimp are still in and i havent seen any nitrite yet....ammonia only got up tp 1.0ppm.....nitrates are high but i think my rodi needs filters changed....any advice would help?
The ammonia level isn't going up high enough. It needs to get up to around 5.0 ppm to kick in the cycle. Odds are the shrimp were way too small.
Did I meet you at nemos reef in mattews NC summer time
Possibly. I travel quite a bit and love to visit fish stores.
Marc, is a refugium a must in a reef tank, I have a 65g reef.. About 100 pieces of coral, mostly lps, and 11 fish.. Sump is separate from the tank. I ran all the plumbing into my basement.. I have a carbon and gfo reactor, reef octopus skimmer, and I'm getting ready to set up the apex system, along with upgrading my current ai sol lights to the hydra 52's. I'm up on my maintenance weekly, and thought a refugium would be a great addition, but do I need it?
I like a refugium on my systems, but you may not actually *need* one. If you begin to see quite a bit of algae growing in your tank, then adding a refugium can compete with the micro-algae in your setup. That's been my experience. Plus you have a place to grow pods, and live food is always beneficial to your livestock.
melevsreef thank you, I appreciate the advice..
Why not just pure ammonia to start the cycle? Starts the cycle the same without having to wait so long for ammonia to release. And without all the dirty breakdown of the shrimp?
The raw shrimp method is one way that works. That's why I demonstrated it. I've personally never tried pouring ammonia in a tank. But three days later you pull the carcass - it's not dirty to me. Just slimy. ;)
I left the shrimp in to long and my water is cloudy. Do I finish the cycle b4 a water change ?
Yes. Don’t run the lights, no filtration, just let it ferment. Remove the carcass. Once the cycle has completed, you can do a water change and start up your skimmer, run carbon, etc.
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I just started my 35 gallon but I messed up and put way too much salt in my water I did rodi and I took more than half the water out my tank and I'm making more rodi water now would this mess my cycle up I'm using dry rock and before I took the water out I had the heater and flow maker running for about 13 hrs
No, it won't mess it up necessarily. The change in salinity could affect some bacteria production. It's best to mix up your saltwater in a separate container, then compare the salinity, temperature and pH of the new saltwater to your display tank's water and get those to match... BEFORE you change any water.
Marc thank you for everything :) can you please advice if you will use any filter socks in your refugium ?? or you will not use any ??
I don't like cleaning socks, so I hardly ever use any. If there is a need, I'll rig up something temporarily, but then that means I'll have to clean the sock later. That's heavy incentive not to use any. lol
You take the shrimp out after the ammonia spike? I am on day 4 with the shrimp in and there definitely is a spike! Around 3/4ppm. i've read that you should keep the shrimp in throughout the entire cycle but I am very new to this hobby. Should I take the shrimp out? Thank you!
did you end up taking them out because I'm on day 4 and I currently have an Ammonia level of 4.0Mg/L
Nowadays you can buy real pacific ocean water at the pet store. 5 gallons for about 12 dollars. In other words, skip the cycling. I've done this on several saltwater tanks with half this and half mixed saltwater. No problems at all. Also can purchase "by the gallon" at some saltwater fish stores. Bring your own buckets!
Whats the reason for not using filter socks in this system?
I don't use filter socks in any of my systems. I can't stand cleaning them, to keep it short. Here's my longer blog: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/29179-Cleaned-the-filter-socks-(sounds-boring-right-)
what filter do you use for your camera while filming your tanks? thanks
If the tank is very blue, I have orange filters that I place in front of the lens. I prefer to film when the tank is lit to match daylight.
What do you mean clean up the system after you take the shrimp out? You mean a water change or just get the bubbles out manually and turn on skimmer
I don't understand which part you are referencing, sorry. Once the full cycle has completed, you can perform a water change and then turn on the skimmer.
melevsreef 14:20
@@TheTechHazard Gotcha. Just remove the shrimp and let the tank cycle. When the cycle is COMPLETE (weeks later), turn on the skimmer so it can pull out the crap in the system like you saw in the video 20 seconds later.
Thanks for the knowledge
Thank you so much. Very informative. I'll find you on Facebook :)
How do you keep your auto top off from syphoning into the sump even when it's off. When the water level in my top off bucket is higher than the end of the hose in the sump, it will keep syphoning.
I would like to know also.
The SmartATO Micro has a tiny siphon-break fitting included in the kit. When I opened that package and saw that, I was so impressed/excited that I wrote Coralvue an email instantly to commend them for that foresight. In your situation, what you want to do is raise the output tubing higher than the water line in the top off bucket, and let it trickle down into your sump from up high. This will prevent siphoning. Under my 400g, I used a clear vertical "riser tube" to contain the water trickling down. You can see the pictures in my blog entry: www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/1362-Aquahub-s-Auto-Top-It-Off-kit
Thanks! The riser tube idea is so simple but genius, I already have some of that stuff lying around.
Marc, are you against using denitrifying bacteria to cycle a tank?
I used some in my 29g waaaay back in 1998. But I needed to do an article on cycling, so I didn't buy anything like BioSpira or other bacteria in a bottle. ;) That article is here: www.melevsreef.com/cycle
I could have added the other stuff, had I had it on hand. Or made a run to the LFS. ;) But it was just a frag system, and I didn't think it was necessary at the time.
And no, I'm not against it. :)
Did you take the shrimp out after 3 days of putting it in? Or three days after ammonia started to rise ?
After it has rotted three days, you can remove it.
Thank you!
@@carliemercado5357 are you supposed to do a partial water change when you take the shrimp out because it's day 4 for with a 4.0 ammonia level am I don't know what to do?
Hey, thanks for the video. Did you get any diatom or green algae? I'm cycling my 210g for almost a month now and ammonia has gone down, but nitrite is now up to 5.0. I've been waiting for the nitrite to go back down for almost 2 weeks. Does that sound right? Diatom is pretty bad and needs to be cleaned from the glass daily. The only reason I'm a little worried is because I've been adding the fluvia bacteria to speed up the process to no avail. 210 gallons with led running at 85%,skimmer is also running and I have some chromis because the shrimp smell was pissing my wife off.
Are you sure you are measuring Nitrite, and not Nitrate? Sorry I know what that sounds like, but Nitrite usually drops pretty quickly. I'd stop adding anything for the time being and let it finish. A normal cycle takes 3-4 weeks to complete, so for now I'd just let it conclude, then you can turn on the skimmer and start adding livestock.
The nitrite finally started to drop. I did a small water change and it seems to have kick started the change. Its been dropping for the last 3 days and i'm looking forward to getting off work today and seeing where the levels sit. Haven't lost any fish through the cycle. 10 chromis and 2 mocha clown. Seem very happy. Next I'm looking to add anthias and a carbon and gmo reactor. Thanks again for the vids
Run carbon to keep smell down. Run skimmer as well, it wont affect the cycle at all.
Have you ever done fresh water tanks
No.
Did you do any type of bacteria dosing?
No there is plenty on the dead shrimp.
couldn't I "save" my water from "water changes" and use for setting up a larger tank? The water is,already cycled...right? or would this not b a good way...?
No, don't use used water in your next tank. It could have deficits (low alk, low calcium, high phosphate, high nitrate). Start off right, and start the cycle.
Ok. Ty
What model red octopus are you using on the frag tank in this video?
I'm not positive, but I'd imagine the 110 with a bubble blaster pump. It's been replaced with a Nyos Quantum 120.
how do you control the vectra with your phone? with the reef link or apex?
Thanks, that's what I was thinking. But I didn't know if they had made up yet lol
I"m using EcoSmart Live on my iPhone or my laptop. Whichever is handier.
Will a cooked shrimp work?
No, never. Always use a raw fresh shrimp.
Once I take the shrimp out during the 3rd day am I supposed to do a water change or just leave it?
After it has rotted for three days, you can remove it. You do not change water... you keep measuring ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to see the cycle progress. After 72 hours, you should see an increase in Ammonia, and that should last several days before it collapses. Nitrite then rises, and falls more quickly than Ammonia did, and when it hits zero, Nitrate should begin to show up in your testing.
@@melevsreef Thank you so much!!! i just don't want to mess up my cycle
@@melevsreef hello, sorry to bother again but for the last 2 days I realized that my pH has dropped to 6.2 and I read on a different article that I must add at least 20% dechlorinated water to the tank to raise the pH so the cycle can continue. is this true or will ruin my cycle completely?
@@LuisDominguez-js9pr I sincerely doubt it is 6.2. I'd recommend you get yourself an American Pinpoint Meter to track pH accurately.
@@melevsreef I also forgot to mention that my Ammonia, Nitrites, and nitrates are all really high right now, is that a good or bad sign?
kindly mention the dimension of your tank?
Can u do this with a freshwater tank?
I don't know.
I'm curious on what dosing product you use??
For Alkalinity, I'm using baked baking soda (Soda Ash once it is baked). For calcium, I use Fritz Calcium chloride. And for magnesium, I'm using Magnesium Pronto by Two Little Fishies.
+melevsreef thank you sir!