Grrreat to see you back on Mahi...But we're missing you!...Missing your cooking, shopping, tidying & most of all your company!🤗 Soo proud of you Sparks...Love, as always Mum❤
Sorry to say , but you can't bolt hollow tubes together , when you are at sea, it will work loose, as the tubes will compress, and the bolts will come loose ,if you are going to keep going with this , get someone with a Tig welder to weld it all together, and for the main threaded bars that clamp this on to the crossmenbers , add a round tube through the rectangular tudes where the threaded bars go, so the tubes can't compress,
I also believe a threaded bolt is not a good idea for holding tubes together. It will tend to cut and wear in a 'twist and thump' environment, so the whole contraption will loosen up rapidly. Sleeves inside would help a bit, but I am with you on the welding.
Ty I was searching for the technical comment, I think the whole thing is a really bad idea, ocean salt will corrode the steal to unsafe condition in less than a year, galvanized or not, once you drilled/weld it that join is not protected anymore, paint don't reach inside bolts, this is where you gonna stand, if it falls in the middle of the atlantic you are dead...I love DIY but this thing is really really bad thought and dangerous for him, it's a lot of work I know but I will tear it down to do it again properly...choose another material, don't gamble your life and others on that. Don't know wich country he is but...there's no maritime regulations there?, as far as I know partially self builded boats must go over inspection before going to sea...when they see this he would not be cleared.
The squeezy bulb thing. Ah yes. I thought our outboard was busted last year. After having an outboard for 40 years I learned that there is a dot and an arrow on there, and it doesn't just show the direction it will pump fuel, but you need to hold it vertically with the dot facing down when pumping to get the fuel flowing. Who knew ;)
Use a magnet to test all stainless bolts, nuts, washers and pipes and tubes. 304 grade stainless will not stick to a magnet and any other lower grade stainless will have some magnetic force and will rust.
Maybe if you round the wood blocks on top of beams to match the arch of your beams so the top of the wood blocks are completely flat. Then put two short steel tubes across the beam with a gap between them. Then you can insert the hanging steel tube between them with a bolt across all 3 square tubes. And maybe to add strength to the hanging tubes, weld plate to the ends, to reinforce the walls around the screw holes. Basically, now the weight is on two square tubes for each hanging tube, instead of the threaded rod.
Rethinking my idea because it would still be hanging on the threaded rod. Maybe welding a tube on top of the hanging tube that rests on both tubes that go across beam. Then it's hanging off 4 welded sides. Bolt the top T bar to the two beam bars to lock into place but the weight is not on the bolts now. I might want solid steel for the hanging tubes and tubes across the beams. It sure is a tricky problem. I'm also thinking flat metal bars with several screws in a column that attach into the beam but not too deep since there's many. Then have bolts through that plate to attach to the hanging beam. Of course you have to put in bolts before attaching plate to beams. Now it's hanging one 3 bolts. You could even make it a an upside down U flat bar that's notched into the beam at the top and screwed there also.
Welcome back! As for the drill bits, try to find a shop where the professionals are buying theirs. The quality at the building centres is often very poor.
Well done mark difficult coming back too boat now back in the real world as in comfy food mum dad but you know what you’re doing I agree with you bigger bolts stay safe ❤
Great to see you back at the boat which really should have been gifted to you. It was dead and you saved it from being buried in a landfill . Best wishes for the future.
To drill stainless successfully. Use a good sharp bit apply good strong pressure. Go slow (low rpm's) I mean really slow and use real cutting oil/fluid. Reapply oil as needed. If you see smoke, stop, let it cool and start again. You should get real long curly drill shavings.You can't let it get hot!
part 3 : I would lash the boards of your floor doing so creating a space between boards for the water to escape faster diminishing resistance to the waves and also doubling safety by keeping the boards in place when the screws fail.
Nice to see you are still banging away on your project/boat/home. Keep at it, it takes a bit of time. But the old girl is looking much better these days! Cheers Mark.
Mark you need to stop and start on stainless that's why your drill bits are going blunt. you are over heating them. Run the drill for a few seconds use cutting oil and let them cool then re start say 3 second bursts.
The Merc 9.9 is a great little engine. The carb and fuel system needs a little TLC from time to time. The carb comes off in about twelve seconds, and you can take it apart and clean it on the galley table with a spray can of brake cleaner. Enjoy!
To drill stainless you need cobalt bits and only do a start stop applying pressure with your drill otherwise if you drill at high speed the bit gets too hot and dulls in just a minute or 2.
Those probably aren’t bad drillbits they’re for wood make sure when you’re buying drillbits that you get ones for drilling metal. They’re usually a brass gold color for metal drillbits. The black ones are usually for wood.
I discovered step drills not so long ago and not to be over dramatic, but they have changed the way I drill forever. Soooo much easier and hole sizing is a breeze. Yes they do have limits, but with sheet metal (thinner stock), they are absolutely the way to go. Viking Norsemen Vortex Point drill bits are step pointed bits in regular sized sets, they drill holes like a dream, in all materials.
Part 2 :I have build outboard bracket, I guaranty you the whole thing will constantly get loose . REMEDY: first leave the bolts but get compression tubes around every bolts to keep the pipe from giving in. Then weld a triangular bracket at every intersection, with the tubes on either sides of it ,then you will have a self supporting independent apparatus .Personally I would also bolt it right through the beams after properly waterproofing the holes by epoxy encapsulation.
Mark, I really enjoy the videos. I agree on diagonals to make it static, even if it is just a few crisscross cables tightened with turnbuckles. But welding diagonal elements would be better. Statics and Dynamics are two very different disciplines. Dynamics requires allowance for wear and tear at the joints.
A trick with the fuel line is to burp out the air pocket in it by only slightly inserting the quick connect and squeezing the primer at the same time until a stream of fuel squirts out. Then push quick connect on all the way. Prime until float bowl is topped up
Cobalt drill bits for ST/ST ... ST/ST work hardens , meaning, once you start dont stop . Use lock nuts ... TIG is the best way . Every hole is a potential weakness .Also, 316 I hope ?
Glad to see you back. On the engine cage I’d be concerned with the bolts sheering from the weight of the engines putting a side load on them. I would definitely increase the size of them for that reason alone.
great to see you back. Im an old tradesman and ocosionally give my thoughts. Todays thoughts... 1) look after your knees when your young. The biggest thing i started doing about ten years ago is wearing work pants with double cloth on the knee area that allows the insert of foam knee pads. I leave them in when washing. They are so good. I use childrens interlocking foam tiles and cut them to fit. cheap and good. 2) keep working on expanding your makita cordless tools. never rerget it, save so much time. good tools are a pleasure for years carry on bravely!
I know it's the nature of the beast, but please look out for your back mate. All the hunched over lifting of outboards and such can get you. No use having your dream boat if it means you can't get up and down into your hulls!
Glad yer back buddy, a few months with the familam to charge yer batteries is just the ticket 👍👍. Great adventures over the next couple months to come, I bet you’ll make great progress 👏👏👏👏
I admire the way that you are working. Mahi looks now to be the bones of a well built boat. I kind of wish that I had the physical ability to undertake a project boat but since I was run over by a speeding truck, my strength is limited to a series of Gold Credit Cards. When I was hit by the truck, it kind of deflated my ability to move freely. I now wish to buy a GRP sailboat, something that will not require as much effort as you are putting in, something that also will not deteriorate in weather.
Cobalt drill bits are the way forward for drilling stainless steel. Also bear in mind that stainless steel work hardens when drilled. Make sure your bolts protrude through the nylon part of the nylocs so they don't come undone. Great work and it's starting to come together.
Great to see you back at work Mark and been hanging out to see what’s next. Not my business but freaks me out when I see you leaning over the drill with no eye protection.
The answer to saving ruining your drill bits mate is to drill a smaller pilot hole first. Ruin the smaller and cheaper bits! And welcome back. I’ve missed the videos lol.
U needed a smaller drill bit, called a pilot hole that clears the way for the bigger full size drill bit. Especially with that steel u had to drill thru.. Keep up the good work!
Mark, thought you might want to know that I recently learned something from a old metal fabricator on drilling holes. Use liquid dish soap as a cutting oil and it will keep your bits cool and it honestly works quite well.. good to see you back mark.. only have had sailing seabird Friday uploads for awhile now but you're back and can add to the Friday entertainment
When Drilling Stainless Steel, Use Kerosene or Diesel as a Cutting Lubricant at Low Speed. You Won't Blue the Metal or Drill Bit by Keeping everything Cool and Slow.
Minor suggestion, use cutting oil for lubricant while drilling, stainless steal is notorious for destroying drill bits or any cutting tool. The cutting oil also cools the bit so don’t use WD 40 it evaporates too quickly and loses its lubricity and cooling power. As to bit metal use Good HS Steal bits or cobalt but just a hint cobalt hard to sharpen after they are dulled.
Welcome back mate. As others have said stainless steel must be drilled slowly and with good drill bits also it look like You use normal WD40 as cutting lubricant which it’s not very good for. WD40 has a special cutting oil for this purpose.
Hi, I'll give you a piece of advice: don't use iron drill bits but buy cobalt drill bits and you'll be drilling holes in stainless no problem and in no time. They cost more but you don't lose time believe me.
I have done a similar job on my boat doing my chain plates where some of the bolts snapped, it’s a pain in the a$$. However I have learned that you have to use great cobalt drill bits, drill at low speed and keep oiling it. One of worst jobs I have done trying to remove snapped bolts. Your boat is coming along. All the best.
Welcome back sir, you have been missed! Happy to see that new “car” and the twin outboards. Hopefully that fuel issue will reveal itself and you can check that issue off your list. The weather there looks kind of miserable but Spring should be coming your way soon.
hearing that the aim is ocean crossing, what happens when the two hulls break apart? best of safety when you solidly build this craft. and best next sponsor, please a liferaft ✌️
I would be fiber glassing the flooring at least on the bottom where you are going to be getting wet from the ocean. Be better to fiber glass both top and bottom, I know it would be a lot of work and a high cost but in the long run be stronger and last longer.
Hi, bit of a warning.. be careful when cooking with those portable propane stoves on boats.. propane is heavier then air.. so will collect at the bottom of your boat.. and when ypu least expect it.. have a spark and your entire boat will go boom.. cook outside with those stoves
Great to see you again, Mark. Based on my personal experience, may I recommend that on your first 2 or 3 coastal cruises, you choose points of destinatioin with good proximity to marine parts and supply stores. There will always be unexpected incidents that illuminate the need for something previously thought not to be important, or to fix or improve things that are just not up to the task they were intended to serve. It is just hell when you have an unexpected breakdown on a shakedown cruise that occurs 400km from the nearest store that has what you absolutely must have to get you back onto the sea. Yours is my favorite UA-cam channel and I look forward to each new video, every week.
@@mark7321 Absoeffinglutely. No matter where You strand in the Netherlands, they'll know how to get You what You seem to need. And a whole plethora of things You do not need, too. 😂
A lot of modern drill bits aren't designed to be sharpened, they are basically a disposable item. And remember when you are sharpening them don't let them get to hot as they'll just go brittle.
Thanks!
Grrreat to see you back on Mahi...But we're missing you!...Missing your cooking, shopping, tidying & most of all your company!🤗 Soo proud of you Sparks...Love, as always Mum❤
awesome!!
Sorry to say , but you can't bolt hollow tubes together , when you are at sea, it will work loose, as the tubes will compress, and the bolts will come loose ,if you are going to keep going with this , get someone with a Tig welder to weld it all together, and for the main threaded bars that clamp this on to the crossmenbers , add a round tube through the rectangular tudes where the threaded bars go, so the tubes can't compress,
I was going to say that too and Mark has been learning to weld 😊
Definitely agree.
I also believe a threaded bolt is not a good idea for holding tubes together. It will tend to cut and wear in a 'twist and thump' environment, so the whole contraption will loosen up rapidly. Sleeves inside would help a bit, but I am with you on the welding.
Ty I was searching for the technical comment, I think the whole thing is a really bad idea, ocean salt will corrode the steal to unsafe condition in less than a year, galvanized or not, once you drilled/weld it that join is not protected anymore, paint don't reach inside bolts, this is where you gonna stand, if it falls in the middle of the atlantic you are dead...I love DIY but this thing is really really bad thought and dangerous for him, it's a lot of work I know but I will tear it down to do it again properly...choose another material, don't gamble your life and others on that.
Don't know wich country he is but...there's no maritime regulations there?, as far as I know partially self builded boats must go over inspection before going to sea...when they see this he would not be cleared.
You my friend are absolutely correct
Nice to have you back I’ve been waiting for your return. JJ
25:25 just remember, fall backwards, spring forwards, when trying to remember what the clocks do.
we missed you ! great to see you back !
Danke!
Thanks
@WildlingSailing *_ The visit to that guy's cat.... man, that boat was nothing less than "Organised Chaos" _*
It'll all be worth it when you're out on the open seas again!
Drill stainless real slow with sharp drill and fairy liquid .
Glad your back!
Welcome back in rainy Zaandam
Well done. Great progress. Can’t wait to see her sailing to Friesland. You are an inspiration. ⛵️
Good to see ya back on the job
Good to have you back.
Spain sounds inticing, I’m getting fed up with our cold and damp winters, so much easier to do stuff in some sunshine!
Love your Videos! Do your best to make yourself happy!
The squeezy bulb thing. Ah yes. I thought our outboard was busted last year. After having an outboard for 40 years I learned that there is a dot and an arrow on there, and it doesn't just show the direction it will pump fuel, but you need to hold it vertically with the dot facing down when pumping to get the fuel flowing. Who knew ;)
You’re doing great dude. Good to see you back.
Use a magnet to test all stainless bolts, nuts, washers and pipes and tubes. 304 grade stainless will not stick to a magnet and any other lower grade stainless will have some magnetic force and will rust.
Keep up the good work! You'll get there!
Maybe if you round the wood blocks on top of beams to match the arch of your beams so the top of the wood blocks are completely flat. Then put two short steel tubes across the beam with a gap between them. Then you can insert the hanging steel tube between them with a bolt across all 3 square tubes. And maybe to add strength to the hanging tubes, weld plate to the ends, to reinforce the walls around the screw holes. Basically, now the weight is on two square tubes for each hanging tube, instead of the threaded rod.
Rethinking my idea because it would still be hanging on the threaded rod. Maybe welding a tube on top of the hanging tube that rests on both tubes that go across beam. Then it's hanging off 4 welded sides. Bolt the top T bar to the two beam bars to lock into place but the weight is not on the bolts now. I might want solid steel for the hanging tubes and tubes across the beams. It sure is a tricky problem. I'm also thinking flat metal bars with several screws in a column that attach into the beam but not too deep since there's many. Then have bolts through that plate to attach to the hanging beam. Of course you have to put in bolts before attaching plate to beams. Now it's hanging one 3 bolts. You could even make it a an upside down U flat bar that's notched into the beam at the top and screwed there also.
Welcome back! As for the drill bits, try to find a shop where the professionals are buying theirs. The quality at the building centres is often very poor.
Well done mark difficult coming back too boat now back in the real world as in comfy food mum dad but you know what you’re doing I agree with you bigger bolts stay safe ❤
great to see you back. looking forward to se the progress true the summer
Back at it!
Looking good progress is being made…..⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️
Good to see you back
Great to see you back at the boat which really should have been gifted to you. It was dead and you saved it from being buried in a landfill . Best wishes for the future.
Finally your back. Missed your video’s a lot
To drill stainless successfully. Use a good sharp bit apply good strong pressure. Go slow (low rpm's) I mean really slow and use real cutting oil/fluid. Reapply oil as needed. If you see smoke, stop, let it cool and start again.
You should get real long curly drill shavings.You can't let it get hot!
I should have watched the entire video before commenting.
part 3 : I would lash the boards of your floor doing so creating a space between boards for the water to escape faster diminishing resistance to the waves and also doubling safety by keeping the boards in place when the screws fail.
Nice to see you are still banging away on your project/boat/home. Keep at it, it takes a bit of time. But the old girl is looking much better these days! Cheers Mark.
The mumby 48 is my dream boat!
Mark you need to stop and start on stainless that's why your drill bits are going blunt. you are over heating them. Run the drill for a few seconds use cutting oil and let them cool then re start say 3 second bursts.
Welcome back! Question: Why not weld? Much faster, solid, reliable. Less trips up the hardware store.
The Merc 9.9 is a great little engine. The carb and fuel system needs a little TLC from time to time. The carb comes off in about twelve seconds, and you can take it apart and clean it on the galley table with a spray can of brake cleaner. Enjoy!
Croma Tap 2 Tapping Fluid 500mL Is good for stainless as a cutting and tapping fluid
Go start loving the Netherlands, its all about love at the very end
To drill stainless you need cobalt bits and only do a start stop applying pressure with your drill otherwise if you drill at high speed the bit gets too hot and dulls in just a minute or 2.
Spring forward fall back. That how I remembered.
Looking great mark
Those probably aren’t bad drillbits they’re for wood make sure when you’re buying drillbits that you get ones for drilling metal. They’re usually a brass gold color for metal drillbits. The black ones are usually for wood.
I discovered step drills not so long ago and not to be over dramatic, but they have changed the way I drill forever. Soooo much easier and hole sizing is a breeze. Yes they do have limits, but with sheet metal (thinner stock), they are absolutely the way to go. Viking Norsemen Vortex Point drill bits are step pointed bits in regular sized sets, they drill holes like a dream, in all materials.
Part 2 :I have build outboard bracket, I guaranty you the whole thing will constantly get loose .
REMEDY: first leave the bolts but get compression tubes around every bolts to keep the pipe from giving in.
Then weld a triangular bracket at every intersection, with the tubes on either sides of it ,then you will have a self supporting independent apparatus .Personally I would also bolt it right through the beams after properly waterproofing the holes by epoxy encapsulation.
Welcome back. I would put two diagonals in the stainless rack for more stability and strength.
Was just thinking that, triangles are strong!
I worry about the thrust forces 18 hp could put quite a load on those forward hangers
Mark, I really enjoy the videos. I agree on diagonals to make it static, even if it is just a few crisscross cables tightened with turnbuckles. But welding diagonal elements would be better. Statics and Dynamics are two very different disciplines. Dynamics requires allowance for wear and tear at the joints.
@@mikestevens9455 not a problem.
Good to see you back!
My boy creates those chill vibes! You've been missed fella!
chill vibes only, my friend ;)
Good to have you back looking forward to seeing this project progress 😊
A trick with the fuel line is to burp out the air pocket in it by only slightly inserting the quick connect and squeezing the primer at the same time until a stream of fuel squirts out. Then push quick connect on all the way. Prime until float bowl is topped up
Nice to see you.
yoo! cheers! nice to see you too!
Cobalt drill bits for ST/ST ... ST/ST work hardens , meaning, once you start dont stop . Use lock nuts ... TIG is the best way . Every hole is a potential weakness .Also, 316 I hope ?
Glad to see you back. On the engine cage I’d be concerned with the bolts sheering from the weight of the engines putting a side load on them. I would definitely increase the size of them for that reason alone.
good to see you again missed you
Easy way to remember Spring forward fall back.
Daylight 'saving' is just daft. Before the end of April there is an extra hour of daylight anyway.
great to see you back. Im an old tradesman and ocosionally give my thoughts. Todays thoughts...
1) look after your knees when your young. The biggest thing i started doing about ten years ago is wearing work pants with double cloth on the knee area that allows the insert of foam knee pads. I leave them in when washing. They are so good. I use childrens interlocking foam tiles and cut them to fit. cheap and good.
2) keep working on expanding your makita cordless tools. never rerget it, save so much time. good tools are a pleasure for years
carry on bravely!
ive been thinking about getting some knee pads actually! cheers, mate!
Tools in boat get corrosion and similar problems-air contain to much water and salt.I prefer cheap ones
Glad to see you back on the Tube..
I know it's the nature of the beast, but please look out for your back mate.
All the hunched over lifting of outboards and such can get you. No use having your dream boat if it means you can't get up and down into your hulls!
Glad yer back buddy, a few months with the familam to charge yer batteries is just the ticket 👍👍. Great adventures over the next couple months to come, I bet you’ll make great progress 👏👏👏👏
I admire the way that you are working. Mahi looks now to be the bones of a well built boat. I kind of wish that I had the physical ability to undertake a project boat but since I was run over by a speeding truck, my strength is limited to a series of Gold Credit Cards. When I was hit by the truck, it kind of deflated my ability to move freely. I now wish to buy a GRP sailboat, something that will not require as much effort as you are putting in, something that also will not deteriorate in weather.
UA-cam is happy you're back. They piled on the adverts almost to the point it was not worth watching.
Aweee😢
Cobalt drill bits are the way forward for drilling stainless steel. Also bear in mind that stainless steel work hardens when drilled. Make sure your bolts protrude through the nylon part of the nylocs so they don't come undone. Great work and it's starting to come together.
True!!!
Yes they certainly seem to be the way to go. But i think he's using regular nuts. At least some of them seemed to be. I already mentioned this above.
Stainless also work hardens when repeatedly plasticaly deformed ( in this case, bent ). Not a great solution.
Always minimum 2 threads showing when using nyloc nuts.
The trick with stainless is to use more pressure and slower drill speed. Once stainless work hardens you are stuck even cobalt bits will struggle
Great to see you back at work Mark and been hanging out to see what’s next.
Not my business but freaks me out when I see you leaning over the drill with no eye protection.
Ahoy ! Friesland is magic; especially with the draft of a Wharram. 'Recommend Shiermonnikoog, Ameland and Terschelling.
I made a sailing rig for my Kayak with stainless box. for the end sections I inserted a nylon block to help spread the load.
The answer to saving ruining your drill bits mate is to drill a smaller pilot hole first. Ruin the smaller and cheaper bits! And welcome back. I’ve missed the videos lol.
Mint as per
U needed a smaller drill bit, called a pilot hole that clears the way for the bigger full size drill bit. Especially with that steel u had to drill thru.. Keep up the good work!
If you point the arrow on your primer bulb up while squeezing it, it will prime better
Mark, thought you might want to know that I recently learned something from a old metal fabricator on drilling holes. Use liquid dish soap as a cutting oil and it will keep your bits cool and it honestly works quite well.. good to see you back mark.. only have had sailing seabird Friday uploads for awhile now but you're back and can add to the Friday entertainment
We missed this Mark, we appreciate all the work you do
good to have you back Mark
Way to crack on Mark!
Looking good 👍
When Drilling Stainless Steel, Use Kerosene or Diesel as a Cutting Lubricant at Low Speed. You Won't Blue the Metal or Drill Bit by Keeping everything Cool and Slow.
I recommend that you bolt your outboard to the transom of your dingy. Don't rely on just the clamps as they are notorious for loosening off.
Minor suggestion, use cutting oil for lubricant while drilling, stainless steal is notorious for destroying drill bits or any cutting tool. The cutting oil also cools the bit so don’t use WD 40 it evaporates too quickly and loses its lubricity and cooling power. As to bit metal use Good HS Steal bits or cobalt but just a hint cobalt hard to sharpen after they are dulled.
Welcome back mate. As others have said stainless steel must be drilled slowly and with good drill bits also it look like You use normal WD40 as cutting lubricant which it’s not very good for. WD40 has a special cutting oil for this purpose.
You’re making a great headway with this project. Keep going, loving the content and seeing you put your skills to work. 🤟
Hi, I'll give you a piece of advice: don't use iron drill bits but buy cobalt drill bits and you'll be drilling holes in stainless no problem and in no time. They cost more but you don't lose time believe me.
when priming hold the bol up and down not side to side great to see your back
Obviously sharp drill bits help LOL. As you found.
But next time drill pilot holes first with a small drill bit...
I have done a similar job on my boat doing my chain plates where some of the bolts snapped, it’s a pain in the a$$.
However I have learned that you have to use great cobalt drill bits, drill at low speed and keep oiling it.
One of worst jobs I have done trying to remove snapped bolts.
Your boat is coming along.
All the best.
Little tip with outboards always take petrol off let them run dry. When finished with for the day.
I said it once and I'll say it again you need to build a cabin on that boat
Keep the lifting of the engines on the uprights. If you do it on the fore-aft cross brace, they will bend.
Keep up the good work.
Welcome back sir, you have been missed! Happy to see that new “car” and the twin outboards. Hopefully that fuel issue will reveal itself and you can check that issue off your list. The weather there looks kind of miserable but Spring should be coming your way soon.
hearing that the aim is ocean crossing, what happens when the two hulls break apart? best of safety when you solidly build this craft. and best next sponsor, please a liferaft ✌️
I would be fiber glassing the flooring at least on the bottom where you are going to be getting wet from the ocean. Be better to fiber glass both top and bottom, I know it would be a lot of work and a high cost but in the long run be stronger and last longer.
good to see you back.. next project should be A deck pod
Hi, bit of a warning.. be careful when cooking with those portable propane stoves on boats.. propane is heavier then air.. so will collect at the bottom of your boat.. and when ypu least expect it.. have a spark and your entire boat will go boom.. cook outside with those stoves
Great to see you again, Mark.
Based on my personal experience, may I recommend that on your first 2 or 3 coastal cruises, you choose points of destinatioin with good proximity to marine parts and supply stores. There will always be unexpected incidents that illuminate the need for something previously thought not to be important, or to fix or improve things that are just not up to the task they were intended to serve. It is just hell when you have an unexpected breakdown on a shakedown cruise that occurs 400km from the nearest store that has what you absolutely must have to get you back onto the sea.
Yours is my favorite UA-cam channel and I look forward to each new video, every week.
Good advise, but the Netherlands and Friesland in particular are so boat-crazy they may have more chandleries than carparts 😊
@@mark7321 Absoeffinglutely. No matter where You strand in the Netherlands, they'll know how to get You what You seem to need. And a whole plethora of things You do not need, too. 😂
A lot of modern drill bits aren't designed to be sharpened, they are basically a disposable item. And remember when you are sharpening them don't let them get to hot as they'll just go brittle.
Welcom to your boat. It's a real pleasure to watch you again
Getter done
Mark! Hang on a minute while I get a cupa coffee.
OK. Good to see ya!
haha
Also,maybe bolt spacers,shaped to the profile of the hollows in the main cross members,to the steel uprights.
You’ve been missed!
ahh cheers mate!
Love your videos.
Great project, Did you know that stainless steel drills have a different cutting angle than normal steel. ❤ keep rolling bud
Great to have you back 👍🍻