My brand new Quick Stop pads squeaks from 40 - 110kmh, I didn't put the bolts back to torque spec besides the wheels, could that be why? And the Rattle Clip centers itself doesnt it? (I Cleaned front and back of the Brake Rotor)
@@sgcars6731 Hi, so I went for it. It was smooth on the first wheel. As per video. Went to the second wheel, removed the top bolt from the caliper, tried to undo the second but someone round it previously. I had to put it back and wait for a replacement bolts. Once these arrived it was easy. Cheers.
Yes, the caliper was rotated on the top slide pin for convenience, but it's the same pin as the bottom one so you can push the caliper out of the bracket as needed.
I had no idea what an ASX was, it turns out it's a RVR in Canada, it should be very similar. I have an upcoming video on Dodge Ram brakes and even though it's bigger, it's almost the same.
I went to replace my front wheel hub assemblies as far as I could see the parts sent will not work, as it appears it's only bearings that have to be removed from the housing, and new ones pressed in, very frustrating as I specified my exact year brand and model and many things say they work, but it doesn't appear so, mind you I could not brake the rotor away from the hub, so I'm curious did yours have a 4 bolt wheel hub bearing, or just the whole knuckle assembly with the wheel hub?
It happens, I had to delay my Impreza rear brakes video because they sent me the wrong rotors, the disk was the right size but the drum was too big and the parking brake didn't work. I don't know about the hub, it didn't need to get changed yet.
I think it was a regular 14mm metric socket/wrench , but don't use pliers, it may damage the bolt and you will regret it next time you have to change the brakes. If you don't have wrenches, look at a big car store or a Walmart, the often have small kits for less than 10$.
I suggest that you use brake lubricant (I used Permatex ceramic brake lubricant, but any high heat brake grease) on the sides of the brake pads where the pad touches the caliper (never use the grease on the friction surface that touches the disks, lubricant on the disk brake will reduce the stopping power, since the brakes works by friction). If you don't use lubricant, one of the pads might stick (because of friction and rust) and you will get uneven pad wear (like on my driver side, the outer pad is at 50% left and the inner pad is at 25% left because it had no grease and rust reduced the clearance). The slide pins of the calipers must also be lubricated to prevent uneven pad wear, but note that some petroleum based greases sometimes damages some rubber boots on the pin, it depends, the Permatex lube states it can be used on rubber, read the back of the brake grease, it should be written. Some people like silicone grease, but it's not usually the best for metal to metal lubrication. Don't forget to remove the manufacturing oil film (rust inhibitor) left on the new disk rotors (if you bought new ones) with brake cleaner, alcohol or acetone (or dish soap and water if desperate), or else the stopping power will be reduced for a while, it might be dangerous.
No, that's the opposite, you need it to slide freely, you need grease (high temperature brake grease). On this design, putting thread locker on the slide pin could make the caliper seize and cause uneven brake pad wear and even warped rotors (by overheating them).
No need to bleed if you don't unhook the brake line, Il faut juste presser le piston du caliper pour pouvoir mettre les nouveaux pads et le liquide va retourner dans le réservoir. Maintenant j'utilise une simple C clamp, ou des fois juste mon pouce... comme dans mon vidéo Sur les freins arrière de mon Subaru à 8 min 54 sec ua-cam.com/video/_FQKrtoLtKw/v-deo.html
Not all caliper bracket bolts are the same. Typically these bolts require only 25- to 35-ft/lbs of torque. Also, some bracket bolts can be torque-to-yield or require liquid tread lockers.
caliper guide pins are 32ftlbs + - 4ftlb (Front ONLY) caliper bracket bolts 74 + - 7ftlb (Front ONLY) could be inaccurate make sure your car is identical to the video not responsible if you damage anything. these are specs for a 2011 lancer es 2.0l technically wheel torque is 78ftlbs but everyone at the dealership just does 90ftlbs
Great video going to change my breaks based on your video I just have one question why did you remove the break fluid cap before pushing back the piston?
I belive it is so that the air can be purged when the clamp adjusts and holds the break pads down. That way the air can leave the system without leaving air bubbles in the break fluid
J'y vais au feeling pour ça (comme la plupart des mécaniciens) mais voici les specs officielles pour si tu veux prendre le temps de sortir le torque wrench: Caliper body assembly to the support - front disc brake: Tightening torque: Caliper bolt: 27 N·m (2.75 kgf-m, 19.9 ft-lb) Front wheels: Tightening torque: 120 N·m (12.24 kgf-m, 88.5 ft-lb)
+ScoutThe64 I don't have the service manual and Google gives me different answers... My answer would be tight it snug enough so that the caliper won't fall off and small torque difference between the two caliper bolts is not critical.
I have the service manual now: Caliper body assembly to the support - front disc brake: Tightening torque: Caliper bolt: 27 N·m (2.75 kgf-m, 19.9 ft-lb) Front wheels: Tightening torque: 120 N·m (12.24 kgf-m, 88.5 ft-lb)
Between 30000 and 70000 miles although, it really depends your type of driving. City driving wears the pads more than highway driving. Pads usually has a metal tab that will squeal when they need replacement, but some cheap pads don't. It is a good idea to check the pad's thickness from time to time (once a year maybe). Pads usually need replacement at 2.5 mm of thickness left (0.1 inch).
L'auto a été achetée usagée à 30000 km et c'est une manuelle, donc il y a de fortes chances que ce soit les disques originaux sans vis étoiles. Sur mon Subaru n'avait pas de vis non plus. Si il y a une vis à enlever alors c'est mieux de le faire avec un tournevis punch ou un impact driver, un tournevis ordinaire à tendance à détruire l'étoile, surtout avec la rouille.
enlever le brake a main et a lintérieur le brake n'est pas usé donc il y a un gap. Fau aligné le trou du disque a chacun des drum pad. Et poussé chacun des pad pour mieux sortir le disque
Tank you, I'm glad you liked it. I'm in Canada so that might not be useful to most people, but I sometimes use thewrenchmonkey.ca and other times I have a discount parts shop close to me.
Yes it's very similar, I have a video on how to change the rear brakes on a Lancer, that's what you are looking for: ua-cam.com/video/HKD22HlM3gU/v-deo.html
If it sounds like it rubs every wheel rotation and it increases with speed, the rotor might be warped. A high pitched noise might come from the brake pad shims. Those trouble may be caused by low quality parts, I would suggest watching the following video: Brake Shim Fail - EricTheCarGuy
Corroded? This is only cosmetic, this part is actually a treated part that corrodes less quickly. People who live in nordic countries expect that to happen, we apply anti rust when possible, but there are still too many small bare metal parts on a car to paint them all. So yes it would have been good to paint all 4 calipers, but then you would have to bleed the brakes, and then you find other rusty bits, then where do you stop?
Thanks guy you have been very helpful and did it well some don't do it like you correctly.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback.
Thanks for the video, about to do my breaks but like you thanks to Montreal winters there is a lot of rust :/
+FlyingPhoenix , you are welcome, this video was actually shot in Montreal!
Ça doit être au Québec pour avoir autant de rouille sur des freins de 2011 :) Merci pour le vidéo!
Trahi par la rouille! En plus ce vidéo a 1 an, donc l'auto avait 4-5 ans quand le vidéo a été filmé.
Hahahahaha.Personne s'en sauve au Québec.Merci pour le vidéo!
sans aucun doùte on voit un truck videotron dans le video ;)
thank you brother! would like to see your lancer too on another video
You are welcome!
Thanks for the Tutorial. Gonna try it out this weekend.
Great, did it go well?
@@sgcars6731 It did! Completed it flawlessly AND in record time to myself.
Thanks Pal!
My brand new Quick Stop pads squeaks from 40 - 110kmh, I didn't put the bolts back to torque spec besides the wheels, could that be why? And the Rattle Clip centers itself doesnt it? (I Cleaned front and back of the Brake Rotor)
The Measure of rotors?
Seems easy enough. We’ll see how it goes in practice. I hope my Colt 2007 is similar.
It should be, I have an upcoming video on Dodge RAM brakes, and there's not much difference. I hope it went well for you.
@@sgcars6731 Hi, so I went for it. It was smooth on the first wheel. As per video. Went to the second wheel, removed the top bolt from the caliper, tried to undo the second but someone round it previously. I had to put it back and wait for a replacement bolts. Once these arrived it was easy. Cheers.
Can you take off the entire caliper then replace the brakes pads?
Yes, the caliper was rotated on the top slide pin for convenience, but it's the same pin as the bottom one so you can push the caliper out of the bracket as needed.
Would this be the same process for a 2015 lancer?
Hi , thanks for the video. Is it similar for ASX please as to me look identical?
I had no idea what an ASX was, it turns out it's a RVR in Canada, it should be very similar. I have an upcoming video on Dodge Ram brakes and even though it's bigger, it's almost the same.
@@sgcars6731 thanks mate
what is the torque for the calliper bracket bolts front and rear, please!!!
I went to replace my front wheel hub assemblies as far as I could see the parts sent will not work, as it appears it's only bearings that have to be removed from the housing, and new ones pressed in, very frustrating as I specified my exact year brand and model and many things say they work, but it doesn't appear so, mind you I could not brake the rotor away from the hub, so I'm curious did yours have a 4 bolt wheel hub bearing, or just the whole knuckle assembly with the wheel hub?
It happens, I had to delay my Impreza rear brakes video because they sent me the wrong rotors, the disk was the right size but the drum was too big and the parking brake didn't work. I don't know about the hub, it didn't need to get changed yet.
Just wondering if anyone get 2 small metal thing with the brake pads, i’m wondering where they go
Are you referring to the metal clips at 1:52, or the pins welded to the pads (the wear indicators)?
Such a helpfull video. Thank you very much!
I'm glad it was helpful to you!
0:14 please what size is the hexagonal tool used for these or can i use regular pliers
I think it was a regular 14mm metric socket/wrench , but don't use pliers, it may damage the bolt and you will regret it next time you have to change the brakes. If you don't have wrenches, look at a big car store or a Walmart, the often have small kits for less than 10$.
SG Cars thanks man! ill check in Walmart or AutoZone. thanks again!!
is it really just a 14mm or a 17mm is needed to remove the caliper bracket? Thanks!
Will this video be the same instructions for 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer?
I am very confident it will be since this generation of Lancer started in 2008.
+SG Cars Thank you.Do you have any videos on how to do the rear brakes?
This is pretty much every car out there how to
I have a 2013 same car did you have any issues with abs system?
No ABS problem yet
Very nice. Thanks man.
awesome video man.. quick question What type of brake gel did you get and where did you apply it to before you placed in the new brake pads ?
I suggest that you use brake lubricant (I used Permatex ceramic brake lubricant, but any high heat brake grease) on the sides of the brake pads where the pad touches the caliper (never use the grease on the friction surface that touches the disks, lubricant on the disk brake will reduce the stopping power, since the brakes works by friction). If you don't use lubricant, one of the pads might stick (because of friction and rust) and you will get uneven pad wear (like on my driver side, the outer pad is at 50% left and the inner pad is at 25% left because it had no grease and rust reduced the clearance).
The slide pins of the calipers must also be lubricated to prevent uneven pad wear, but note that some petroleum based greases sometimes damages some rubber boots on the pin, it depends, the Permatex lube states it can be used on rubber, read the back of the brake grease, it should be written. Some people like silicone grease, but it's not usually the best for metal to metal lubrication.
Don't forget to remove the manufacturing oil film (rust inhibitor) left on the new disk rotors (if you bought new ones) with brake cleaner, alcohol or acetone (or dish soap and water if desperate), or else the stopping power will be reduced for a while, it might be dangerous.
Muy buena explicación 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
awesome video, thank you, will save me some money.
You are welcome!
Hello -Do you have any videos on how to do the "Rear" brakes? For a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer?
+blackdog33032 Not yet, but it has been scheduled to happen over the course of the month. I will post the video as soon as I get it.
The rear brakes replacement video can be found at: ua-cam.com/video/HKD22HlM3gU/v-deo.html
Do you need Threadlocker on the slide pins?
No, that's the opposite, you need it to slide freely, you need grease (high temperature brake grease). On this design, putting thread locker on the slide pin could make the caliper seize and cause uneven brake pad wear and even warped rotors (by overheating them).
You don't need to bleed the brakes? Merci pour la vidéo!!!
No need to bleed if you don't unhook the brake line, Il faut juste presser le piston du caliper pour pouvoir mettre les nouveaux pads et le liquide va retourner dans le réservoir. Maintenant j'utilise une simple C clamp, ou des fois juste mon pouce... comme dans mon vidéo Sur les freins arrière de mon Subaru à 8 min 54 sec ua-cam.com/video/_FQKrtoLtKw/v-deo.html
Merci SG Cars. Brakes done! You're the best!
Can I replace the brakes with Outlander's?
I don't know if they use the same parts, you might want to check on car parts websites.
Excellent explanation, thank you
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video, one question tho. Do you have to torque the bolts to a specific spec when putting the caliper bracket back on ?
From everything I've seen and read, as well as advice from a mechanic friend, no. My friend said he has never torqued caliper bolts
Not all caliper bracket bolts are the same. Typically these bolts require only 25- to 35-ft/lbs of torque. Also, some bracket bolts can be torque-to-yield or require liquid tread lockers.
so, same process will apply for a 2010 lancer. right?
+Damian A. Corona Yes, it's the same generation, I would even say the process is similar for most car manufacturers.
thanks
It's a pleasure to help you!
How much do you torque the caliper bolts bro
caliper guide pins are 32ftlbs + - 4ftlb (Front ONLY)
caliper bracket bolts 74 + - 7ftlb (Front ONLY)
could be inaccurate make sure your car is identical to the video not responsible if you damage anything. these are specs for a 2011 lancer es 2.0l
technically wheel torque is 78ftlbs but everyone at the dealership just does 90ftlbs
How do you measure torques on bolts? Sorry if i sound stupid but its my first time
You need a torque wrench
Great video going to change my breaks based on your video I just have one question why did you remove the break fluid cap before pushing back the piston?
I belive it is so that the air can be purged when the clamp adjusts and holds the break pads down. That way the air can leave the system without leaving air bubbles in the break fluid
Do I have to bleed the brakes after doing this ?
No not that way, although there are other ways to do it.
Est-ce que tu as besoin d'un torque précis pour les bolts ou juste tight?
J'y vais au feeling pour ça (comme la plupart des mécaniciens) mais voici les specs officielles pour si tu veux prendre le temps de sortir le torque wrench:
Caliper body assembly to the support - front disc brake:
Tightening torque:
Caliper bolt: 27 N·m (2.75 kgf-m, 19.9 ft-lb)
Front wheels:
Tightening torque:
120 N·m (12.24 kgf-m, 88.5 ft-lb)
@@sgcars6731 merci!
How many Newton Meters of torque do i need to fasten the Bolts?
+ScoutThe64 I don't have the service manual and Google gives me different answers... My answer would be tight it snug enough so that the caliper won't fall off and small torque difference between the two caliper bolts is not critical.
I have the service manual now:
Caliper body assembly to the support - front disc brake:
Tightening torque:
Caliper bolt: 27 N·m (2.75 kgf-m, 19.9 ft-lb)
Front wheels:
Tightening torque:
120 N·m (12.24 kgf-m, 88.5 ft-lb)
Thank You! That helped!
How many miles before one should change pads?
Between 30000 and 70000 miles although, it really depends your type of driving. City driving wears the pads more than highway driving. Pads usually has a metal tab that will squeal when they need replacement, but some cheap pads don't. It is a good idea to check the pad's thickness from time to time (once a year maybe). Pads usually need replacement at 2.5 mm of thickness left (0.1 inch).
I'm going to attempt this in a few days, wish me luck
Good luck, but I'm sure you will figure it out!
Y'a aucune vise étoile qui fau enlevé ? c'étais les frein d'origine ?
L'auto a été achetée usagée à 30000 km et c'est une manuelle, donc il y a de fortes chances que ce soit les disques originaux sans vis étoiles. Sur mon Subaru n'avait pas de vis non plus. Si il y a une vis à enlever alors c'est mieux de le faire avec un tournevis punch ou un impact driver, un tournevis ordinaire à tendance à détruire l'étoile, surtout avec la rouille.
Je comfirme, il n'y a pas de vis, mais les brake arrière son chiant a faire a cause des drum a l'intérieur ahaha!!
Oui il faut pas oublier d'enlever le frein à main pour pouvoir enlever le disque.
enlever le brake a main et a lintérieur le brake n'est pas usé donc il y a un gap. Fau aligné le trou du disque a chacun des drum pad. Et poussé chacun des pad pour mieux sortir le disque
Thanks
Hello nice video great explain.What website did you buy parts?
Tank you, I'm glad you liked it. I'm in Canada so that might not be useful to most people, but I sometimes use thewrenchmonkey.ca and other times I have a discount parts shop close to me.
@@sgcars6731 Thanks.
I visit Canada so often.
@@sgcars6731 Thanks same web site here in US but I visit Canada Winnipeg,MB and Toronto,ON so often have all family there.
www.thewrenchmonkey.com
is changing the rear brake pads similar this or there are any significant differences?
Yes it's very similar, I have a video on how to change the rear brakes on a Lancer, that's what you are looking for: ua-cam.com/video/HKD22HlM3gU/v-deo.html
One day do a ball joint change on mistubushi lancer one day
awesome thanks
what if it still make a noise when u push da break after u change da breaks?
If it sounds like it rubs every wheel rotation and it increases with speed, the rotor might be warped. A high pitched noise might come from the brake pad shims. Those trouble may be caused by low quality parts, I would suggest watching the following video: Brake Shim Fail - EricTheCarGuy
thank you for
video manual *
What are the bolt sizes? what tools do i need exactly to do this?
Reported for misleading and misinformation due to being an undeclared ad.
An ad for what?
seeing how eroded your clippers where you should have sanded then painted the calipers
Corroded? This is only cosmetic, this part is actually a treated part that corrodes less quickly. People who live in nordic countries expect that to happen, we apply anti rust when possible, but there are still too many small bare metal parts on a car to paint them all. So yes it would have been good to paint all 4 calipers, but then you would have to bleed the brakes, and then you find other rusty bits, then where do you stop?
Cest mieux un amie pour faire votre video et travailler soigneusement. Ca marche pas avec une seul doigt
Damn! that thing is very rusty, where do you live?
Québec, Canada, welcome to the rust belt, man, if you think that's rusty wait until you see a 10 years old car!
Salt and rust...Be an dust...You must wash periodic...
Almost good man, forgot the grease
That's important, yes, but I mentioned it at 5:20