Відео

What about the other slide pin ? U didnt put grease on that 😆

Dam my friend just paid 1500 to get these done…I’m assuming they were quick struts but still, looks straight forward

Hello dear Do we need to take the main battery fuse out to do this brake pad job or it’s safe to do it like conventional cars. Thanks

Great video...no critiscism but maybe a quick clean up of the caliper and bracket and a lick of paint. Doesn't cost much but can help with future disassembly/servicing. Your slide greasing advice is spot on and yes replace those rotors, I never reuse rotors always put on a new set! Cheers and enjoy your Leaf! Mike 🇨🇦

After at km you change brakes?

This dude is so amazing

Your video pretty much covers it :-) My one critique is your jack method. I see countless damaged rocker/pinch welds, particulary on older cars in the rust belt where that tab is bent over. Once damaged, it rusts, and a few years later, you have potentically have no lift point! I had one in my shop last week where the entire area had rusted out. I've used a variety of solutions for this, but the best in my shop are aluminum (magnetic) slotted cups that protect the rocker pinch weld at the lift points. A hocky puck with a slit cut into it works too. The video was great...I just cringed slightly when you lifted the car! Cheers, Dennis.

I added the service manual in the description. I also made a longer version (15 minute) of this video for those who want to do a proper full brake maintenance and free up the rust: ua-cam.com/video/Pf9gdSIEuMk/v-deo.html Since the brake fluid is a closed system, when the pads wear, the fluid level drops, but when you change the pads and press the pistons, the fluid goes back to the full level. That means if you added fluid while it was low, it might overflow when pressing the caliper pistons.

I added the service manual in the description. I also made a shortened version (5 minute) of this video for those that don't experience rust issues: ua-cam.com/video/s9gAhtD4Htw/v-deo.html Since the brake fluid is a closed system, when the pads wear, the fluid level drops, but when you change the pads and press the pistons, the fluid goes back to the full level. That means if you added fluid while it was low, it might overflow when pressing the caliper pistons.

This video was made years ago for people who wanted to replace their brakes on their driveway with minimal tools and on a limited budget. I need to add that if you are having trouble pulling the rotor out because it's stuck to the hub from some rust, and you are not reusing that old rotor, you may hammer it from behind. If that still doesn't work, make sure the parking brake was not applied first (if it was applied, try removing the rotor again), and if not then you may loosen the parking brake tension by removing the access plug (as seen on 3:03) and rotating that access hole to the bottom, then try to turn the adjustment wheel inside the hole with a flat head screwdriver, in order to pull the two parking brake shoes together an free the rotor. Also, don't use anti seize on sliding parts as it contains grit and anti seize is not a lubricant, so use a silicone brake lubricant.

Just wondering if anyone get 2 small metal thing with the brake pads, i’m wondering where they go

Is the longer version not available anymore ?

I could pick holes all day in this but lets take a look at the main fails Clean it up. Clean the pad carrier with a wire brush, it takes seconds to do but ensures the pad can slide freely when refitted. Clean the guide pins and the guide holes of old grease. Check the guide seals for cracks, they cost pennies to replace. Coppaslip is ok if its the real thing, rated to 1100'c but I use ceramic brake grease, rated to 1600'c. It costs the same to buy and matches the manufacturer spec and whichever you use dont smear it in the pads, they are meant for grip. Buy service tools, a caliper windback tool will last for a lot of brake jobs. And a Hammer ? A small pry-bar would have popped that pad out of the carrier, no need to batter it. If that is your first brake change, good effort!

Please help.. what radio its compatible whit the impreza 2012.?!?!?!

Great vid. Keep it up!

Can you take off the entire caliper then replace the brakes pads?

My brand new Quick Stop pads squeaks from 40 - 110kmh, I didn't put the bolts back to torque spec besides the wheels, could that be why? And the Rattle Clip centers itself doesnt it? (I Cleaned front and back of the Brake Rotor)

How the hell do you get the top caliber bracket bolt off with the brake line in the way?

Where did you get that long funnel that holds a quart oil bottle? Thanks!

a breaker bar for oil drain bolt? what the fuck?

From Brakes

Thank you, found your video useful, just disassembled my wife's subie, controllers burned. 😢

I just did this lubrication for the first time on my 2022 Leaf (Canadian SV+) and the video was very helpful in preparing. I did note a few differences: 1. The bolts retaining the pins have 14 mm heads in the front, but 13 mm in the rear, with a torx socket as well. 2. The rear bolts were installed with blue Loctite in the rear (factory I assume, since I bought the car new and have had no brake service to date). No loctite on the front ones. 3. The reat bolts are NOT integral to the pins so the removal approach is identical to the front and requires caliper removal. The two brake lines in the rear complicate things a bit so I supported the caliper on a large block rather than trying to hang it up while ding the work. 4. Due to the Loctite, the rear bolts required holding the slide pin to break the bolts loose and avoid them rotating. There is a hex head on the pins (front and rear) which looks to be 16 mm (odd size) or maybe 17 mm. It was too big to fit my 15 mm wrench and the space is too narrow to try my 17 mm so I was obliged to use a thin adjustable wrench to hold it. 5. I also cleaned the piston faces and caliper contact points for good measure and used some anti squeal lubricant on them to reduce future corrosion.

i like the concept of a less expensive ev than Tesla. Just to get around town.

Really appreciate this video we knocked this out yesterday. Its interesting that the 13 Hatch has a sway bar mounted to the control arm but the sedan doesnt. We just did the quick strut but this was ultra helpful in locating things. Probably the easiest repair ive ever done

Thank you so much I've been searching for 3 weeks on how to remove that white cable on my 2015 Subaru forester for some reason your video is the only video that shows you where it is

Doesn't help

Thanks for the video. Where did you find that cell phone holder?

What media brand /model is it? Is it any good?

Thanks

Cheap! Where is that? Certainly not in Canada!

"That's what I meant"! Atleast you warned yourself! LOL!

Pins wont even slide out if mine seized solid

How tf u take the rotor off trash video

Steering wheel controls lost ? I bet so... maestro rr and t harness so expensive

Got any torque specs for the slide bolts?

Thank you sir for that information. The 8 by 1.25 millimeter bolt really help me out. I found it at a local Autozone right away. #8 1.25, 30 millimeter bolt. Thank you. 🙏

Thank you!

Great Video!!! Thanks for the info!!

I didn’t know you were a magician. Delete this video mate haha

Would this be the same process for a 2015 lancer?

Can someone explain where to put the jack stand to lift both front wheels please?

This video helped me fix my air flow knob issue. The cable attached underneath the steering wheel was bent. A simple fix

If you go to the trouble of removing the callipers consider cleaning the pistons and callipers ua-cam.com/video/F4CDe5ARBSI/v-deo.html

Asshole "Magic" Thanks for the no help....

It's not 5 lt, 5 quarts oil capacity.

wow another person who has no clue what the hell he is doing. Please stop doing videos of doing brake jobs half ass.

I watched another video and I feel like it was so complicated. I watched yours and had it done in like 3 minutes.

thank you for video manual *

Very nice. Thanks man.