Hi, what were your thoughts on this wall assembly in a 3A climate (NC)? Metal (vertical, nail every 12") > 7/16 mesh screen (vertical, non compressive) > Alumaflash > OSB > continuous rigid foam insulation > studs 16" oc with rigid foam in-between > drywall. Corvent at top and bottom of assembly. It will be monopoly framed with the entire envelope having the same assembly layers except the underside of the trusses will have strapping to keep the foam boards from falling and the drywall will be fastened to the ceiling. The trusses won't have continuous insulation across them, just in between (budget constraint 😬😩🫠) Thank you for your time and insight. ❤
My concern is that’s a great cavity for bugs to nest. Will cor-a-vent between furring strips top and bottom prevent this? 2-3 inches each? Please explain, love your videos
Have you ever thought about recessing the ZIP-R sheathing, so it aligns with the foundation? I love the siding/rain screen/ZIP-R sheathing buildup you have, but the big exposed bottom edge may look unappealing to some.
@@jhoffmanhomes, TJI joists. They set them back far enough where once the rim board and zip sheathing were put on, they were flush with the 10” foundation wall.
@@lucasfallert4031 got ya, thanks for the explanation, I’m getting ready to start incorporating the zip and hadn’t considered moving the floor system in.
Every shows the bottom of the wall, no-one shows the top . When the sun comes out and heats that space the moist air wants to rise and escape at the top. If the top of that 3/4 gap is sealed your drying is borked
That's why you need venting at both the top and bottom. We used Cor-A-Vent SV5 at top and bottom of the wall assembly on our new build, which provides the 3/4" gap for draining & drying potential. A little pricey, but I think will be worth the cost.
OG Architect Steve. Love tuning in bro. Salute!
Thanks Steve, these Baczek basics are great.
Hi, what were your thoughts on this wall assembly in a 3A climate (NC)?
Metal (vertical, nail every 12") > 7/16 mesh screen (vertical, non compressive) > Alumaflash > OSB > continuous rigid foam insulation > studs 16" oc with rigid foam in-between > drywall. Corvent at top and bottom of assembly. It will be monopoly framed with the entire envelope having the same assembly layers except the underside of the trusses will have strapping to keep the foam boards from falling and the drywall will be fastened to the ceiling. The trusses won't have continuous insulation across them, just in between (budget constraint 😬😩🫠)
Thank you for your time and insight. ❤
Good question. NC/ SC border here. I was going to ask a similar question. Will be building soon. That would be my approach as well.
@@MrLoudog7howdy neighbor 🙋🏾♀️
Thanks Steven. Can you please show how the "relief at the top of the wall" is executed? @6:34
Coravent horizontally in between furring. I like to flash over it then leave small gap so it can breathe but will keep out wind driven rain
Thanks from the Wet Coast of Canada where we get very little drying time
When will ZIP come with the rain screen built on so you don't need to install furring strips right after? Something to think about!
Stevem thanks for you're dry sense of humor, just Kidding Liked#26 N Subscribed!!!😁
I ran a pvc stud instead of pressure treated on the under of the zip.
My concern is that’s a great cavity for bugs to nest. Will cor-a-vent between furring strips top and bottom prevent this? 2-3 inches each? Please explain, love your videos
Thank you for the advice
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 how about showing us your detail for the top of this wall assembly
No exterior insulation in this house?
Zip R 9
Steve. Could you go over the bug screen and how to enclose the bottom of the R9 detail?
If your walls are 2x6, make your sill 2x8 etc or rip a 2x strip at the bottom. For rain screen insect screen use fine window screen with staples.
Have you ever thought about recessing the ZIP-R sheathing, so it aligns with the foundation? I love the siding/rain screen/ZIP-R sheathing buildup you have, but the big exposed bottom edge may look unappealing to some.
I run a pvc stud on that space then siga over it, then metal flashing over the siga to kick any water out and away.
On my new build, we set the walls back to account for the thickness of the Zip R.
@@lucasfallert4031what type of floor system did you have ?
@@jhoffmanhomes, TJI joists. They set them back far enough where once the rim board and zip sheathing were put on, they were flush with the 10” foundation wall.
@@lucasfallert4031 got ya, thanks for the explanation, I’m getting ready to start incorporating the zip and hadn’t considered moving the floor system in.
Uh oh! The vertical zip tape right behind you is on top of the horizontally-running piece!
Every shows the bottom of the wall, no-one shows the top . When the sun comes out and heats that space the moist air wants to rise and escape at the top. If the top of that 3/4 gap is sealed your drying is borked
I agree!
That's why you need venting at both the top and bottom. We used Cor-A-Vent SV5 at top and bottom of the wall assembly on our new build, which provides the 3/4" gap for draining & drying potential. A little pricey, but I think will be worth the cost.
Yea run coravent horizontally top and bottom in between furring. @GForceFitness1