Thank you for such clear videos! I have a Kenmore 158.14001 bought new in1972 and have loved it forever. I started doing my own maintenance and repairs after I took it to a repair shop for routine maintenance after a prolonged period of non-use and when I retrieved it was told I should only ever oil it with the same oil he (the repair person) used...WD-40! I took my baby home, got out the machine oil and oiled it myself. I've done my own repairs and maintenance ever since. I retired recently, got the machine out to do maintenance before starting to sew again, let the stand open when I left the room and my cat tipped it over, machine hit the floor with a great thud. It would only sew in reverse after that. After watching several of your videos and checking everything I could think of, I realized it was probably not broken, just in great need of maintenance, which YAY! did the trick. It is back running like a champ. I gotta say you have some of the best videos for the Kenmore 158 and for the Featherweight 221. I have looked at probably hundreds the past couple weeks, including some that made me seasick trying to watch them. Your channel is my go-to from now on. Again, thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
Oh good lord. I wasn’t paying enough attention when I took them off and reverse which part of the pulley each belt goes on. Then I couldn’t understand why they were rubbing. Duh. Thank you so much for the visual.
First thanks so much for your videos, I learn so much from you! Randy I have searched for your video on the pulley as my pulley doesn’t spin either as one posted below. I have a 1601 that I just bought. Cleaned and oiled it all up and it was running very well and suddenly seized up on me. I won’t go into all the details but My research has been led to that little pulley. I wasn’t concerned about taking the back panel and hand wheel off but I was concerned about getting it back together as another person said it was pretty difficult. After watching you do it I think I can probably do it too. AI need to get it off in order to get that oil in there. The wheel on the pulley is not moving at all.I really appreciate all of your videos I always learned so much from them.
I do currently have it apart and the pulley is supposed to actually spin Correct? Of course it isn’t and the bolt is super tight so I’m going to proceed with just a little bit of penetrating oil and hope I can get that bolt loose so that I can put some SMO in there. Hope I’m on the right track. Thank you so much Randy!
Hey Randy, I have a Kenmore Ultra Stitch 3402. I fixed the hand crank wheel , but now maybe I have a gear problem? The engine hmms but the needle doesn't move up and down. I was told it wouldn't be cost effective to repair. Could you let me know what you think?
There is no gear problem, nor will there ever be. Whoever told you it’s not cost effective to get it running, is incorrect, in my opinion. If it’s oiled properly, and the belt idler assembly has been oiled properly, and you put the hand wheel back together properly, and the belts are adjusted properly, it should only sew for another 100 years or so.
I've done this repair a few times. The belts are in great shape but were maybe abit loose, so i tightened them up a bit according to your video. It sews fine for awhile, the the clutch wheel gets so that when i try to disengage it to wind a bobbin, it's never right again. Now it barely movesthe needle and just hums like it straining to start sewing. Any suggestion as to what might be going on? Your videos are great!
Even with clutch disassembled, and belts loosened, when I try to move the large wheel to move the needle, it is very,very stiff. Is there a gear or something that could be seizing up? It had been recently oiled, but it feels like something needs to be greased. Any other suggestions? This is my favorite machine, so I would like to repair it.
@@user-nd5vj6os7j check behind the hook driver mechanism. That’s the area that can run dry and need oiling. If you’re not using a penetrating oil, your efforts will be limited. Anything that slide, pivots, or rotates has to be oiled. The one thing that you overlook will be the culprit. Grease only goes in the gearbox and it won’t cause a hang up. Sewing machines run with a very light oil. Oil it and work it. Repeat.
Thanks for the advice. After many hours and penetrating oil applications, I got it running again!! Everything seems to work perfectly now, so I start putting all the covers back on. When everything is back together and I start to sew, it is now making a high pitch squealing sound. It's rhythmic, not constant. So I took the covers off again and oiled with new singer sewing machine oil. I can't seem to find where it's coming from. Any ideas? When I lower my ear to it, it seems like it is coming from the center top of the machine to the handwheel. My machine is 158.12520. There is a black drive gear ( I think) in the center top that looks like a greased part, not oiled. Could lack of enough grease there be the culprit? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've almost got it now.
@@user-nd5vj6os7j the only place that uses grease is in the gearbox behind the shuttle driver gears. The noise could be from the motor. A drop of oil at each end of the armature may be necessary.
Hi, I have the same sewing machine but the idler pully is very stiff and hardly spinning. I have oiled it with no luck. In the video you suggest not to disturb the two screws but I had to remove it even spinning it by hand is hard. Is there a way to crack it open and see why it's not turning? Or what would you suggest in this case? Thanks!
I have a Kenmore almost like this one. When I start to sew the machine growls, like it can’t get started and sometimes it just just hums. Once it starts sewing it’s fine. Is my belt too tight? Thanks!
My machine suddenly (mid project) stopped running well at all (motor struggling to run it very slowly) and since I've never gotten the side panel off I had NO IDEA there were two belts (makes sense, just didn't know!) Gonna check it out again tonight!
The first thing to do would be to check your hand wheel clutch. Make sure it is able to be tightened properly. A drop of oil on the belt idler can be added from the top if you have an extended spout oiler. It’s not necessary to take the side cover off. Be sure to get an extended spout oiler. They are indispensable. 👍🏼😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks! I actually pulled the hand wheel clutch off when the problem started, plus the top and bottom to see if I could see anything that way, and everything is behaving fine otherwise! (Notably a couple months ago I tightened the bottom belt, and it's possible I over tightened!)
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok so I have fooled with tension without improvement and there was a weirdness between the two belts. So I did pull the side panel and the pulley that connects the bolts is VERY stiff/locked to its hub. Have you seen this before? Would you advise disassembling the pulley and hub? Or is that a Bad Idea(tm)? Thank you for your help!
Do an online search: Kenmore 158.19411 belts for sale Several suppliers should pop up. . I recommend sewingpartsonline.com and have used them with satisfactory results.
Thank you so much for the clear information your videos are very good. I am a new sewing machine tech. (well 3 years)The customer brought the machine in for routine service and said she was using it last week. The machine needs oil everywhere. The motor belt has to be replaced it is fraying and the teeth are separating from each other as I turn the wheel. I have a question... as I turn the hand wheel it is not smooth I can hear and feel a gritty noise, is there something else going on? There is also an occasional squeaking sound possible from the handwheel area. I hope by replacing the belt and adding some oil to the handwheel area this solves the problem? Any ides or advice Thank you Judi F
Take the belt off and see if the squeak goes away. If so, problem solved. One of the best ways to troubleshoot a mysterious noise is by adding and subtracting parts. Also be aware that some of the newer plastic belts will squeak as they rub against the inside wall of the hand wheel track. Make sure the friction areas of the belt are dry of oil, and be sure to leave about a 1/4 flex in the belt tension. If it’s too loose: problem. If it’s too tight: problem. If it’s just right: it’s the Goldilocks setting. (Old tech proverb)😎
hanks for great video on belt tightening. a question. do you have a tip for loosening the set screws on the stitch length knob . the one screw either points straight down or directly toward the back. thanks.
Really appreciate it. I was wondering though, does the mid pulley have bearings? Mine is kind of seized up. In another guy's video on the same machine he just put lube on it. Is that sufficient? (Also, I have had no problem rotating the side cover off without removing the stitch length knob.) Thanks!
No bearings. It’s just a wheel on an axle. Tilt the machine on its end and oil that axle on each end. Disengage the hand wheel clutch and let the oil spread out and it will run smooth and free. I have a video showing this as well.
Hey Randy! Hope all is well and you had a good Easter. Have you serviced a kenmore 158.1880? If so what are your thoughts on those besides the gear problem
I think that they’re ok as long as the gear holds up. The failure rate of the nylon gear is not high. It’s just that the failure rate of the metal gears are zero. I caution folks about the gear failure just as a service, when they are looking to buy a good serviceable 158 series Kenmore. If they already have one, I just caution them to be aware of its fragility so it doesn’t fail and leave them in a bind.
@@chrispeak9893 pretty much the same as the others, with that one plastic gear exception. If yours work ok, they will probably continue to do so. I think the bad ones were just a result of a defective process of making some of them.
Thank you for your videos. I have decided to repair my machine as I live in a rural community where services aren’t readily available. The belts on my 135280 have never been replaced. The inside belt looks a bit “chewed” up, like the nubs on it are missing in several spots causing the machine to not pick up. (Sorry for the terminology.) Anyway, since, by all visual clues, the inside belt needs to be replaced, would you suggest just replacing them both? If so, can I just cut the outer belt to make removal of the outside side cover easier? Again, thanks for your help and advice.
Loosen the belt underneath at the motor bracket and you won’t have to cut the belt. You’ll need it loosened to replace the belt, and retighten it so there’s a little flex and not too tight.
I sure do. Just type this in, to what ever search engine you have on your device: Sewing machine belts for sale When I do that on my iPhone, every sewing machine belt that is for sale by every seller that’s out there appears, including Amazon. The selection will be mind boggling. Easy Peasy 😎👍
Hi, quick question, I have a Kenmore 158.850. I just change the motor belt and connected it to the the back pulley that it has, however even though the motor is moving fast, there is a really long delay in the stitch. I am not sure what might be causing this. It would be nice if you could me figure it out. Thank you.
@@jeanajacques1894 if you didn’t take your hand wheel off, and your clutch was working previously, it’s still ok. You may have a loose belt. They should have a 1/4 Inch flex. Make sure that there’s no oil on the belts that would cause slippage. 😎
Wipe the belt clean and you’re all set. Sometimes I’ll run it in the bobbin winder mode, then hold a shop rag against the belt and super-speed-wipe it off. Just don’t let the belt grab your rag or your finger. Ouch!! Bang!
Hi Randy, I have a question about opening up area for belt replacement. It’s got the solid hand wheel and not the clutch release. Is there a different technique to remove cover, it’s a Kenmore ultra stitch 12 “Taiwan” 158.1356080
Hi Randy, it’s me again with another question for you. On the top of machine where the round black gear mechanism is at, what’s the best way to clean area and what type of lubricant is used? Thanks again
@@frankherrera1519 blow it out with a can of compressed air and lube it with sewing machine oil. No need to overthink it or overkill it. That machine will be performing perfectly, 50 years after we’re gone.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok the pulley is very loose. I opened and checked belts but seems that something is loose and let’s pulley shift location
Hi, I am wondering if it is possible to mod 158’s to lower the speed and increase torque. I find mine runs a bit fast and I like better lower speed control. Any thoughts? Ps love your videos
There are ways to sew slower but not any to increase torque. The torque is pretty much built-in, and pre-determined by the motor and the belt system. Sometimes the lower end contacts on foot controls burn out and the lower speeds are gone. Disengage your hand wheel clutch and see if your motor spins the wheel instantaneously on pressing the foot control. As you press the foot control, see if there are any gaps in the increase of motor speed. If the RPM increases steadily and consistently, your speed controller is good. Then, as they say, it is what it is. If the foot control has intermittent problems, it’s time for a replacement. My customers who do piece work and require slower speeds, use the old school method of using their right hand to apply “drag“ to the hand wheel and put the brakes on its speed. 😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for the great tips. I will apply them immediately. My wife bought a spare controller from a charity shop as well. The old school brake method sounds excellent. I saw a video from Sewing Machines in Detail where they modded a Singer 237 with an additional gear to reduce speed. Much easier with the external motor and simpler mechanisms of the 237 ua-cam.com/video/1ChOcvsJku4/v-deo.html. The 158 is pretty perfect anyway. The model I have is the Privileg compact (German market). Has a few more plastic body components like the .1050, and is a super machine. Cheers
If the hand wheel is spinning, like when you’re winding the bobbin, and you hear the squealing noise, it’s coming from your hand wheel. Not the belt. It needs to be oiled at the main shaft that it’s spinning on. Also, make sure the idler pulley axle is oiled. It can squeal also. Just a couple drops will do. Don’t over oil it or it will sling it all over the place. 😎
@@carynmulder1809 if your machine has two belts, they both meet at the idler pulley, which is halfway between the motor and the hand wheel. Whenever I oil them, I use a flashlight and oil each end of the axle that the pulley spins on. It is accessible from the top and I use an extended spout (one drop) oiler, so as to oil it in a pinpoint manner and not get oil on the belts etc. Pop off the top and shine the flashlight down over on the right side by the hand wheel. I have a video on oiling your Kenmore machine, ( 3 parts) where I go into this in great detail. You can also take off the side cover (under the hand wheel) if that helps.😎
Thank you for such clear videos! I have a Kenmore 158.14001 bought new in1972 and have loved it forever. I started doing my own maintenance and repairs after I took it to a repair shop for routine maintenance after a prolonged period of non-use and when I retrieved it was told I should only ever oil it with the same oil he (the repair person) used...WD-40! I took my baby home, got out the machine oil and oiled it myself. I've done my own repairs and maintenance ever since. I retired recently, got the machine out to do maintenance before starting to sew again, let the stand open when I left the room and my cat tipped it over, machine hit the floor with a great thud. It would only sew in reverse after that. After watching several of your videos and checking everything I could think of, I realized it was probably not broken, just in great need of maintenance, which YAY! did the trick. It is back running like a champ.
I gotta say you have some of the best videos for the Kenmore 158 and for the Featherweight 221. I have looked at probably hundreds the past couple weeks, including some that made me seasick trying to watch them. Your channel is my go-to from now on.
Again, thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
Thanks for your kind remarks. I’ll try to keep up the good work and help you out. Thanks for watching.
Oh good lord. I wasn’t paying enough attention when I took them off and reverse which part of the pulley each belt goes on. Then I couldn’t understand why they were rubbing. Duh. Thank you so much for the visual.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching.
First thanks so much for your videos, I learn so much from you! Randy I have searched for your video on the pulley as my pulley doesn’t spin either as one posted below. I have a 1601 that I just bought. Cleaned and oiled it all up and it was running very well and suddenly seized up on me. I won’t go into all the details but My research has been led to that little pulley. I wasn’t concerned about taking the back panel and hand wheel off but I was concerned about getting it back together as another person said it was pretty difficult. After watching you do it I think I can probably do it too. AI need to get it off in order to get that oil in there. The wheel on the pulley is not moving at all.I really appreciate all of your videos I always learned so much from them.
You’re welcome. Once you get it loose and turning, it will be fine. 😎👍🏼
I do currently have it
apart and the pulley is supposed to actually spin Correct? Of course it isn’t and the bolt is super tight so I’m going to proceed with just a little bit of penetrating oil and hope I can get that bolt loose so that I can put some SMO in there. Hope I’m on the right track. Thank you so much Randy!
I want my understanding is that screw goes counter clockwise to tighten So to the right to loosen?
@@pookiebear9200 that’s if your taking the idler off.
@@pookiebear9200 just get it turning unless you see rust. Then you’ll need to disassemble and lubricate.
Thank you so much for your help once again you always make me feel like hey I can handle this
You’re welcome and thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
Hey Randy, I have a Kenmore Ultra Stitch 3402. I fixed the hand crank wheel , but now maybe I have a gear problem? The engine hmms but the needle doesn't move up and down.
I was told it wouldn't be cost effective to repair. Could you let me know what you think?
There is no gear problem, nor will there ever be. Whoever told you it’s not cost effective to get it running, is incorrect, in my opinion.
If it’s oiled properly, and the belt idler assembly has been oiled properly, and you put the hand wheel back together properly, and the belts are adjusted properly, it should only sew for another 100 years or so.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 oh boy. That's excellent news. Thank you ❤.
I've done this repair a few times. The belts are in great shape but were maybe abit loose, so i tightened them up a bit according to your video. It sews fine for awhile, the the clutch wheel gets so that when i try to disengage it to wind a bobbin, it's never right again. Now it barely movesthe needle and just hums like it straining to start sewing. Any suggestion as to what might be going on? Your videos are great!
It can only be that the clutch needs to be reassembled properly.
Even with clutch disassembled, and belts loosened, when I try to move the large wheel to move the needle, it is very,very stiff. Is there a gear or something that could be seizing up? It had been recently oiled, but it feels like something needs to be greased. Any other suggestions? This is my favorite machine, so I would like to repair it.
@@user-nd5vj6os7j check behind the hook driver mechanism. That’s the area that can run dry and need oiling.
If you’re not using a penetrating oil, your efforts will be limited.
Anything that slide, pivots, or rotates has to be oiled.
The one thing that you overlook will be the culprit.
Grease only goes in the gearbox and it won’t cause a hang up.
Sewing machines run with a very light oil.
Oil it and work it.
Repeat.
Thanks for the advice. After many hours and penetrating oil applications, I got it running again!! Everything seems to work perfectly now, so I start putting all the covers back on. When everything is back together and I start to sew, it is now making a high pitch squealing sound. It's rhythmic, not constant. So I took the covers off again and oiled with new singer sewing machine oil. I can't seem to find where it's coming from. Any ideas? When I lower my ear to it, it seems like it is coming from the center top of the machine to the handwheel. My machine is 158.12520. There is a black drive gear ( I think) in the center top that looks like a greased part, not oiled. Could lack of enough grease there be the culprit? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've almost got it now.
@@user-nd5vj6os7j the only place that uses grease is in the gearbox behind the shuttle driver gears. The noise could be from the motor. A drop of oil at each end of the armature may be necessary.
Hi, I have the same sewing machine but the idler pully is very stiff and hardly spinning. I have oiled it with no luck. In the video you suggest not to disturb the two screws but I had to remove it even spinning it by hand is hard. Is there a way to crack it open and see why it's not turning? Or what would you suggest in this case? Thanks!
Get penetrating oil onto the axle shaft of the pulley. Once it’s thoroughly lubricated, it will take off.
I have a Kenmore almost like this one. When I start to sew the machine growls, like it can’t get started and sometimes it just just hums. Once it starts sewing it’s fine. Is my belt too tight? Thanks!
Sounds like that or your idler pulley needs a couple drops of oil on the axle.
Thank you so much!
@@lindamannell1607 👍🏼😎
Thank you so much!!!
You’re welcome and thanks for watching. 😎
Hola cose telas gruesas varias capas?
My machine suddenly (mid project) stopped running well at all (motor struggling to run it very slowly) and since I've never gotten the side panel off I had NO IDEA there were two belts (makes sense, just didn't know!) Gonna check it out again tonight!
The first thing to do would be to check your hand wheel clutch. Make sure it is able to be tightened properly.
A drop of oil on the belt idler can be added from the top if you have an extended spout oiler.
It’s not necessary to take the side cover off.
Be sure to get an extended spout oiler.
They are indispensable. 👍🏼😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks! I actually pulled the hand wheel clutch off when the problem started, plus the top and bottom to see if I could see anything that way, and everything is behaving fine otherwise! (Notably a couple months ago I tightened the bottom belt, and it's possible I over tightened!)
@@lizzyrbits1283 overtightened will be my suspicion as well. They have to have about a 1/4 inch flex in them. 😎👍
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok so I have fooled with tension without improvement and there was a weirdness between the two belts. So I did pull the side panel and the pulley that connects the bolts is VERY stiff/locked to its hub. Have you seen this before? Would you advise disassembling the pulley and hub? Or is that a Bad Idea(tm)? Thank you for your help!
@@lizzyrbits1283 oil it,then turn it to work the oil onto the axle. It will start to spin and then you’ll be done.
This is great, Thank you. Can you tell me where I can find the upper and lower belts for the Kenmore 158.19411?
Do an online search:
Kenmore 158.19411 belts for sale
Several suppliers should pop up. .
I recommend sewingpartsonline.com and have used them with satisfactory results.
Thank you so much for the clear information your videos are very good. I am a new sewing machine tech. (well 3 years)The customer brought the machine in for routine service and said she was using it last week. The machine needs oil everywhere. The motor belt has to be replaced it is fraying and the teeth are separating from each other as I turn the wheel. I have a question... as I turn the hand wheel it is not smooth I can hear and feel a gritty noise, is there something else going on? There is also an occasional squeaking sound possible from the handwheel area. I hope by replacing the belt and adding some oil to the handwheel area this solves the problem? Any ides or advice Thank you Judi F
Take the belt off and see if the squeak goes away. If so, problem solved.
One of the best ways to troubleshoot a mysterious noise is by adding and subtracting parts.
Also be aware that some of the newer plastic belts will squeak as they rub against the inside wall of the hand wheel track.
Make sure the friction areas of the belt are dry of oil, and be sure to leave about a 1/4 flex in the belt tension.
If it’s too loose: problem.
If it’s too tight: problem.
If it’s just right: it’s the Goldilocks setting. (Old tech proverb)😎
hanks for great video on belt tightening. a question.
do you have a tip for loosening the set screws on the stitch length knob . the one screw either points straight down or directly toward the back.
thanks.
I can only recommend using the correct screwdriver that’s wide enough and isn’t rounded off.
Really appreciate it. I was wondering though, does the mid pulley have bearings? Mine is kind of seized up. In another guy's video on the same machine he just put lube on it. Is that sufficient?
(Also, I have had no problem rotating the side cover off without removing the stitch length knob.)
Thanks!
No bearings. It’s just a wheel on an axle. Tilt the machine on its end and oil that axle on each end. Disengage the hand wheel clutch and let the oil spread out and it will run smooth and free.
I have a video showing this as well.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Kick a$$. Super appreciate it! And your immediate response. I subscribed.
@@seanyeah9822 thanks for watching. Glad to help.
Searching for that video, same issue.
Hey Randy! Hope all is well and you had a good Easter. Have you serviced a kenmore 158.1880? If so what are your thoughts on those besides the gear problem
I think that they’re ok as long as the gear holds up.
The failure rate of the nylon gear is not high.
It’s just that the failure rate of the metal gears are zero.
I caution folks about the gear failure just as a service, when they are looking to buy a good serviceable 158 series Kenmore.
If they already have one, I just caution them to be aware of its fragility so it doesn’t fail and leave them in a bind.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I understand totally. Thanks man.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 those 158.1880’s are all steel besides that plastic gear thank god!
@@chrispeak9893 pretty much the same as the others, with that one plastic gear exception. If yours work ok, they will probably continue to do so. I think the bad ones were just a result of a defective process of making some of them.
Thank you for your videos. I have decided to repair my machine as I live in a rural community where services aren’t readily available. The belts on my 135280 have never been replaced. The inside belt looks a bit “chewed” up, like the nubs on it are missing in several spots causing the machine to not pick up. (Sorry for the terminology.) Anyway, since, by all visual clues, the inside belt needs to be replaced, would you suggest just replacing them both? If so, can I just cut the outer belt to make removal of the outside side cover easier? Again, thanks for your help and advice.
Loosen the belt underneath at the motor bracket and you won’t have to cut the belt.
You’ll need it loosened to replace the belt, and retighten it so there’s a little flex and not too tight.
Oh, perfect! Thank you.
@@janisrowlands measure it and order by the inch size.
A 9/34 will be a 975.
A 10 1/2 will be a 1050.
A 14 1-4 will be 1425
Etc.
Hello do you have the link for belts through Amazon?
I sure do.
Just type this in, to what ever search engine you have on your device:
Sewing machine belts for sale
When I do that on my iPhone, every sewing machine belt that is for sale by every seller that’s out there appears, including Amazon.
The selection will be mind boggling.
Easy
Peasy
😎👍
I wish i could have seen what you were doing with the screwdriver when you removed the back plate.
Sorry about that. One day I’ll improve my game and invest in better video studio gear.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Your video gear is alright it just wasn’t pointed in the right direction. Good informative videos though.
@@jimjackson4256 👍🏼
Thank you.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching.
Hi, quick question, I have a Kenmore 158.850. I just change the motor belt and connected it to the the back pulley that it has, however even though the motor is moving fast, there is a really long delay in the stitch. I am not sure what might be causing this. It would be nice if you could me figure it out. Thank you.
If you took the hand wheel clutch apart to replace the belt, it didn’t get reassembled properly.
I have a video for reassembling it properly. 😎
I actually didn’t remove it to replace the belt, maybe I should. Let me see if I can find your video.😅
@@jeanajacques1894 if you didn’t take your hand wheel off, and your clutch was working previously, it’s still ok. You may have a loose belt. They should have a 1/4 Inch flex. Make sure that there’s no oil on the belts that would cause slippage. 😎
Hey Randy, if I happen to have gotten oils on my belt, should I replace it or can it be cleaner?
Wipe the belt clean and you’re all set.
Sometimes I’ll run it in the bobbin winder mode, then hold a shop rag against the belt and super-speed-wipe it off.
Just don’t let the belt grab your rag or your finger.
Ouch!! Bang!
Hi Randy, I have a question about opening up area for belt replacement. It’s got the solid hand wheel and not the clutch release. Is there a different technique to remove cover, it’s a Kenmore ultra stitch 12 “Taiwan”
158.1356080
If you remove the top and side cover, the belt access and replacement will be the same. 😎👍
Hi Randy, it’s me again with another question for you. On the top of machine where the round black gear mechanism is at, what’s the best way to clean area and what type of lubricant is used? Thanks again
@@frankherrera1519 blow it out with a can of compressed air and lube it with sewing machine oil.
No need to overthink it or overkill it.
That machine will be performing perfectly, 50 years after we’re gone.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok the pulley is very loose. I opened and checked belts but seems that something is loose and let’s pulley shift location
@@frankherrera1519 is it on a pivot bolt and spring loaded? Is the spring missing?
I have a kenmore ultra stitch 12 156 series according to the machine plate and owners manual. I only ever see the 158 series, a 156-12.
I had my number up for a text pic. It’s now deleted.
No one ever expects a prompt response.
Kinda like the Spanish Inquisition.
Hi, I am wondering if it is possible to mod 158’s to lower the speed and increase torque. I find mine runs a bit fast and I like better lower speed control. Any thoughts? Ps love your videos
There are ways to sew slower but not any to increase torque.
The torque is pretty much built-in, and pre-determined by the motor and the belt system.
Sometimes the lower end contacts on foot controls burn out and the lower speeds are gone.
Disengage your hand wheel clutch and see if your motor spins the wheel instantaneously on pressing the foot control.
As you press the foot control, see if there are any gaps in the increase of motor speed.
If the RPM increases steadily and consistently, your speed controller is good. Then, as they say, it is what it is.
If the foot control has intermittent problems, it’s time for a replacement.
My customers who do piece work and require slower speeds, use the old school method of using their right hand to apply “drag“ to the hand wheel and put the brakes on its speed.
😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for the great tips. I will apply them immediately. My wife bought a spare controller from a charity shop as well. The old school brake method sounds excellent.
I saw a video from Sewing Machines in Detail where they modded a Singer 237 with an additional gear to reduce speed. Much easier with the external motor and simpler mechanisms of the 237 ua-cam.com/video/1ChOcvsJku4/v-deo.html.
The 158 is pretty perfect anyway. The model I have is the Privileg compact (German market). Has a few more plastic body components like the .1050, and is a super machine.
Cheers
@@anterspenlans 👍🏼😎thanks for watching.
What if the belt is making a squealing noise
If the hand wheel is spinning, like when you’re winding the bobbin, and you hear the squealing noise, it’s coming from your hand wheel. Not the belt.
It needs to be oiled at the main shaft that it’s spinning on.
Also, make sure the idler pulley axle is oiled. It can squeal also.
Just a couple drops will do.
Don’t over oil it or it will sling it all over the place. 😎
How do I get to the idler pulley. It’s not in the book
I know that is what is squeaking
@@carynmulder1809 if your machine has two belts, they both meet at the idler pulley, which is halfway between the motor and the hand wheel.
Whenever I oil them, I use a flashlight and oil each end of the axle that the pulley spins on.
It is accessible from the top and I use an extended spout (one drop) oiler, so as to oil it in a pinpoint manner and not get oil on the belts etc.
Pop off the top and shine the flashlight down over on the right side by the hand wheel.
I have a video on oiling your Kenmore machine, ( 3 parts) where I go into this in great detail.
You can also take off the side cover (under the hand wheel) if that helps.😎
Where is the 3 part series
In state you live I tried to repair my machine but it can !! Thank you
You’re welcome and thanks for watching.