I’m working on an early ‘80’s White. It’s insides are a wringer for this machine, especially the double belt. They came off the same line. You want a double belt. World of difference!
Love your informative videos. I have been watching and searching them as I have a Kenmore 1914 and I am trying to figure out how to get the hand wheel off. Do you have any videos that show that. I feel like my eyes are crossing trying to find them lol. I was hoping it would be in this series but I haven’t seen it. Thank you so much!
Great question. I may have removed one way back before I was making videos. I will try to remember do make a video the next time I overhaul a Kenmore hand wheel of this type.
Hi ! I truly enjoy watching your channel. Thank you for so much variety ! Hopefully I didn’t miss this info in your video, but what lengths (diameter?) are upper and lower belts for the 158 series of machines? I acquired a machine that had the wrong lower belt which caused major issues and want to find the correct belt. The two belt lengths look almost the same, especially at a quick glance. The Kenmore part numbers in the original manuals do not always seem to correspond to what is shown by parts dealers. Also, is there a particular belt style you would recommend for 158s ? Thanks!
i enjoy your videos. just wondering on this belt replacement why you didn't loosen the motor bracket, raise it to max, to give room on the idler wheels to remove upper belt, replace lower belt, adust upper belt with idler adjustment, then adjust lower belt with motor adjustment? thanks.
That is another way to loosen the belt for sure. I chose to go from the side because it is easier to illustrate how the two belts work together and you can see the belt getting loose from the side a bit more.
May I ask a question? The handwheel on the 1931. When compared to the twist knob version on "lesser" Kenmores (read, ugly plastic handwheels that turn all sorts of colours with age), what are the differences between the two types? I'm assuming this is the push in clutch type? Could a machine be retrofitted with this style of handwheel and made to work if it's currently using the twist knob clutch style? I know dimensions are important, but I really want to know if my 1940 (think 41 without the glitzy knob) can be fitted with this variety of handwheel and made to work. Are the bobbin mechanisms different? I wouldn't think they were, but then again, without a parts list or service manual on hand, that's really difficult to say, and unless I can find and buy one of these style of machines and look at the mechanisms, well....that's the reason I'm asking. Thanks for your time, and for all your hard work. Love watching you go through these honeys. You're the reason I tried so hard to buy a 41, but am in the process of turning my 40 into as feature-able as the 41
The primary difference is how they are structurally engineered to disengage and then reengage the drive mechanism. No, a retrofit would not work since one is deigned to twist and the other to pop out and back in. Your hunch is correct in that the bobbin mechanisms are the same. Fortunately, Kenmores are not rare and so if you are passionate about switching, I would suggest finding a 1941 version and either selling or keeping your 1940 model. Or, another option which some sewers go with is not to use the bobbin winder on the machine at all, but rather to purchase a separate bobbin winding device which can be faster (these should take the Class 15 bobbins that the Kenmores of this era use).
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Therein lies the problem. Getting my hands on a 1941 is literally a near impossibility where I live. The millisecond one comes up for sale (same with the 1914), they are either priced out of my league due to shipping or bought up so quickly you can never seem to get your hands on one. The 1940, while good, has the world's worst looking handwheel. I had assumed that everything beyond the clutch these wheels worked off of was identical, and that only the wheel, it's parts and (what I assume is) the clutch were all that needed to be changed out. Hate not having a service manual on both parts to compare notes...grrr! I thought since I'm going to need to change it out for aesthetics, why not see if I could swap in the 41 style instead (which would never turn olive green the way mine did). I hesitate to paint it as I can see paint flaking and scraping off of it in a short period of time. Guess I better find a Plan B. Thanks for your time.
Estoy en Venezuela y no consigo la correa pequeña una es la que usan todas las maquinas pero la otra le queda grande y es una lastima por que es vieja cose muy bien me podria dar las medidas de las dos correas por favor
Thanks for showing how to do this. I will be looking inside my 1970s Kenmore for wear and won't be intimidated by a belt change. Cool!
I’m working on an early ‘80’s White. It’s insides are a wringer for this machine, especially the double belt. They came off the same line.
You want a double belt. World of difference!
Love your informative videos. I have been watching and searching them as I have a Kenmore 1914 and I am trying to figure out how to get the hand wheel off. Do you have any videos that show that. I feel like my eyes are crossing trying to find them lol. I was hoping it would be in this series but I haven’t seen it. Thank you so much!
Great question. I may have removed one way back before I was making videos. I will try to remember do make a video the next time I overhaul a Kenmore hand wheel of this type.
Hi ! I truly enjoy watching your channel. Thank you for so much variety ! Hopefully I didn’t miss this info in your video, but what lengths (diameter?) are upper and lower belts for the 158 series of machines? I acquired a machine that had the wrong lower belt which caused major issues and want to find the correct belt. The two belt lengths look almost the same, especially at a quick glance. The Kenmore part numbers in the original manuals do not always seem to correspond to what is shown by parts dealers. Also, is there a particular belt style you would recommend for 158s ? Thanks!
i enjoy your videos. just wondering on this belt replacement why you didn't loosen the motor bracket, raise it to max, to give room on the idler wheels to remove upper belt, replace lower belt, adust upper belt with idler adjustment, then adjust lower belt with motor adjustment?
thanks.
That is another way to loosen the belt for sure. I chose to go from the side because it is easier to illustrate how the two belts work together and you can see the belt getting loose from the side a bit more.
Is there a particular brand of lubricant that you recommend? I've got basic sewing machine oil but not sure which brand/type of grease to use. Thanks!
May I ask a question? The handwheel on the 1931. When compared to the twist knob version on "lesser" Kenmores (read, ugly plastic handwheels that turn all sorts of colours with age), what are the differences between the two types? I'm assuming this is the push in clutch type? Could a machine be retrofitted with this style of handwheel and made to work if it's currently using the twist knob clutch style? I know dimensions are important, but I really want to know if my 1940 (think 41 without the glitzy knob) can be fitted with this variety of handwheel and made to work. Are the bobbin mechanisms different? I wouldn't think they were, but then again, without a parts list or service manual on hand, that's really difficult to say, and unless I can find and buy one of these style of machines and look at the mechanisms, well....that's the reason I'm asking. Thanks for your time, and for all your hard work. Love watching you go through these honeys. You're the reason I tried so hard to buy a 41, but am in the process of turning my 40 into as feature-able as the 41
The primary difference is how they are structurally engineered to disengage and then reengage the drive mechanism. No, a retrofit would not work since one is deigned to twist and the other to pop out and back in. Your hunch is correct in that the bobbin mechanisms are the same. Fortunately, Kenmores are not rare and so if you are passionate about switching, I would suggest finding a 1941 version and either selling or keeping your 1940 model. Or, another option which some sewers go with is not to use the bobbin winder on the machine at all, but rather to purchase a separate bobbin winding device which can be faster (these should take the Class 15 bobbins that the Kenmores of this era use).
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Therein lies the problem. Getting my hands on a 1941 is literally a near impossibility where I live. The millisecond one comes up for sale (same with the 1914), they are either priced out of my league due to shipping or bought up so quickly you can never seem to get your hands on one. The 1940, while good, has the world's worst looking handwheel. I had assumed that everything beyond the clutch these wheels worked off of was identical, and that only the wheel, it's parts and (what I assume is) the clutch were all that needed to be changed out. Hate not having a service manual on both parts to compare notes...grrr! I thought since I'm going to need to change it out for aesthetics, why not see if I could swap in the 41 style instead (which would never turn olive green the way mine did). I hesitate to paint it as I can see paint flaking and scraping off of it in a short period of time. Guess I better find a Plan B. Thanks for your time.
Great job i love your videos thank you🙏
Glad you like them!
Great job bud
How much is the belt.
Estoy en Venezuela y no consigo la correa pequeña una es la que usan todas las maquinas pero la otra le queda grande y es una lastima por que es vieja cose muy bien me podria dar las medidas de las dos correas por favor