I'm having all the same issues. Bent my puller, bolts didn't fit the new gearbox, can't get the pitman arm back on easily. I'm giving up for the night, figure I'll take another swing at it in the morning. Thanks for the video!
Good video. You shared all the blind allies and box canyons you ran into and introduced us to our friend Murphy who we all know steals our wrenches, cross threads our bolts and sells us less than perfect reman products. Lessons learned for me on this one; remove small bolt on steering column entirely; do a dry fit-up before torquing the pitman arm nut; make sure the old bolts will thread into the new reman box before you attempt to install it; make sure the box, pitman arm and linkage are all pointing straight ahead before you tighten anything down. How much crap in that corner did you take off to get the job done? I'm thinking about the air pump and vapor recovery tank for starters.
@@iowadiy6361 Thanks, with my bad back I need all the room to work I can get. Problem with vapor recovery lines is brittle plastic wants to break. I've been thinking about replacing with copper or PVC. Was your new box a Moog, AC Delco, Delphi or store brand?
Mine was a store brand reman from O’Reilley’s. Makes me think it was AC-Delco but I’m not 100% sure on it. I didn’t go with an upgrade because there isn’t big tires or a lift that would wear it out extra fast and the stock one lasted 250k so a reman one worked just fine for me
I put another 20k on the truck and then it got totaled when someone ran a red light. I had no problems with it. It wasn’t loose or anything. Don’t know if another 100k would be okay or not but it was fine for me
Thanks, from scorching southern California. Haha. My problem is evo sensor on the steering column, or the power steering sensor on the pump. Just hit 200,000 on my C1500. But this will help out on its future mile stones. The goal is 500,000.
Thanks for the video man helped me solve my problem. The threads were different because your truck is probably made in Canada so there are weird differences in parts sometimes
Sorry my camera skills aren’t great... it’s not an easy area to film and be able to see anything worthwhile either.. that’s why I tried explaining it more so as I went. I appreciate the comments and try to make things better as I go
Thanks for the video. I’m gonna tell the kid to take his truck to the mechanic. I don’t feel like pissing with this. As I get older, I’m starting to despise general maintenance. I’d rather spin wrenches hot rodding stuff.
I guess that’s a small possibility... it can pretty much fill the entire gearbox with just the return line so it’s not that big of a chance. And then after it’s started just make sure it’s full and get a few full rotations
Would it be recomended to replace power steering pump also? Gonna be replacing gear box, ball joints and tie rods on my 99 gmc suburban. Accidental off roading and plowing over a good sized sapling knocked some shit out of alignment. Had a puddle of fluid later that day and same search to find gear box. Brush or my case tree guard is why i aint replacing a lot more. But i might throw in a new pump as well.
As long as the pump is still working and not leaking I don’t think there is a reason to replace it. Those pumps are a simple design that rarely fail - only get less efficient.
Can you please tell me what size socket(s) you used for the pitman arm?. I have to do take my steering gear box out my 98 chevy today or tomorrow. Thank you good sir .
'92 K2500 - leaking pittman arm shaft seal. Leary of DIY box rebuild so pick-up reman. steering gear box for same day ease. Trying to mount arm bolt to shaft impossible and on insp. see reused shaft was beat to poop with end ground off and threads warped. Return and 2nd has good shaft, but likewise, frame mounting bolts incorrect and messing up original mounting bolts. I leave store w/out reman. garbage and refund. Learning (ty Y.T.) I can replace seal by removing 4 bolts on face plate and sliding out shaft w/out complete disassembly into worm gear, I decide to rebuild w/ original GM box. Buy and replace seal with relative ease (seals pretty easy with shaft removed). Then I go to replace aftermarket Moog pitman arm. I slip it on but it comes up short. I crank it up to !00lbs. torq but see its still well short of resting on shaft like original. I put my calipers on it and see its about .02-.03 off inside dia. of aftermarket arm, impossible to squeeze up to original arm pos. on shaft. I go to dealer to look at GM part and it slides right up into correct location on shaft with ease. Though twice the cost, well worth it. I wonder how many jocks in shops get handed parts like this from their boss and are forced to improperly install such garbage. 's why I've come to do my own work, currently replacing this and axle seal, tie rod ends as necc, shocks while my block pulled. I just hope the aftermarket Moog end stabilizer bolts & bushings I replaced aren't as bad off as their other products.
I know this is 3 years old but I had a shop install a pitman and idler arm and how far up the shafts should it go because I had a little play in the pitman so I bought a 3/4 big drive and socket and tightened it up with so much force it won't move any more so my question is if I get an new oem steering box and a oem pitman arm will it slide up further im afraid they messed up the splines
It doesn’t go all the way up. It’s a tapered shaft so it gets tighter on the pitman arm the tighter the nut is. Is the play in the steering box? There is an Allen bolt with a lock nut that can be tightened
anybody know where to find a new seal because the new gearbox didn’t come with it. i have a 95 GMC YUKON. the seal is different then what autozone is trying to sell me. or is it all the same? i can probably substitute the seal with a different one right?
I just went to the local O'Reilleys. I think it's just a remanufactured OEM gearbox. If you can't find one that works and your worm gear is okay there is a seal kit that's about 5% of the cost of a new gearbox
It feels exactly the same as it did before the seal went out. The steering box was a remanufactured gearbox, but there have been zero problems and I've run it for a couple thousand miles now.
I replaced it with stock.. it took me two nights after work to get it done. I had quite a few issues along the way though. If everything is loose and done right the first time it would only take a couple of hours I'm sure
+Michael Thompson I'd recommend a full socket/wrench set to start with. You will also need a ball joint/tie rod separator. Those can be bought at any auto parts store
I’m not really trying for the step by step instructions, just trying to help out the guy who wants the general idea of what he needs to do and what problems might come up
I have a 1994 Silverado 2500 with 364000 miles and still running strong
I'll take a 90s Silverado any day over new one
ok so whats ur point for us
In my opinion this is a great video for what not to do. I'm sure saving a lot of viewers the headache. 😫
I have a 1999 Tahoe with 305 thousand miles on it and still running great. I will be rebuilding my gearbox tomorrow.
I guess that’s roughly the mark. I think I had 280k when I did mine
I’m at 260k miles and mechanic just told me I have to replace it
I'm having all the same issues. Bent my puller, bolts didn't fit the new gearbox, can't get the pitman arm back on easily. I'm giving up for the night, figure I'll take another swing at it in the morning. Thanks for the video!
It was a two day adventure for me too. So many problems. Good luck with it!
Good video. You shared all the blind allies and box canyons you ran into and introduced us to our friend Murphy who we all know steals our wrenches, cross threads our bolts and sells us less than perfect reman products. Lessons learned for me on this one; remove small bolt on steering column entirely; do a dry fit-up before torquing the pitman arm nut; make sure the old bolts will thread into the new reman box before you attempt to install it; make sure the box, pitman arm and linkage are all pointing straight ahead before you tighten anything down. How much crap in that corner did you take off to get the job done? I'm thinking about the air pump and vapor recovery tank for starters.
I hardly removed anything. And in return I had to fight it and fight it and fight it. It would be a lot easier to get some things out of the way first
@@iowadiy6361 Thanks, with my bad back I need all the room to work I can get. Problem with vapor recovery lines is brittle plastic wants to break. I've been thinking about replacing with copper or PVC. Was your new box a Moog, AC Delco, Delphi or store brand?
Mine was a store brand reman from O’Reilley’s. Makes me think it was AC-Delco but I’m not 100% sure on it. I didn’t go with an upgrade because there isn’t big tires or a lift that would wear it out extra fast and the stock one lasted 250k so a reman one worked just fine for me
So how’s the gear box working out so far? I see you had lots of problems installing but is that actual O’Reilly reman gearbox worth buying? ✌️
I put another 20k on the truck and then it got totaled when someone ran a red light. I had no problems with it. It wasn’t loose or anything. Don’t know if another 100k would be okay or not but it was fine for me
Dude that sucks
I've worked on a lot of vehiclkes in my day this was one big pain in the butt I had all the same troubles you did
Good to know I’m not the only one!
Supposed to use your seat belt to hold the steering wheel in place. So you don't have to worry about aligning the wheel.
Now that’s a good idea. I definitely should have done that
Thanks for posting because of your video I just rebuilt a whole truck 😹😹. Jk thanks for the post
Thanks, from scorching southern California. Haha. My problem is evo sensor on the steering column, or the power steering sensor on the pump. Just hit 200,000 on my C1500. But this will help out on its future mile stones. The goal is 500,000.
That's a huge goal! But that would be awesome to get it all the way there! I'm sure it's easier without messing with 4wd parts too...
iowadiy Hey, with family like mine, it's doable.
Thanks for the video man helped me solve my problem.
The threads were different because your truck is probably made in Canada so there are weird differences in parts sometimes
sorry i didnt learn nothing from this video, next time show us your work on how exactly to remove the steering gearbox
Sorry my camera skills aren’t great... it’s not an easy area to film and be able to see anything worthwhile either.. that’s why I tried explaining it more so as I went. I appreciate the comments and try to make things better as I go
Did anyone else notice how many damn washers he used on the manifold bolts?
It doesn’t look the best but it worked!
I've done the same. Those bolts aren't off-the-shelf from a hardware store but a few washers gets it done
Thanks for the video. I’m gonna tell the kid to take his truck to the mechanic. I don’t feel like pissing with this. As I get older, I’m starting to despise general maintenance. I’d rather spin wrenches hot rodding stuff.
This one was a little bit more involved than I thought when I started. But once I started I was committed to it
I thought you are suppose to bleed the power steering or you will have air and blow the seal again???
I guess that’s a small possibility... it can pretty much fill the entire gearbox with just the return line so it’s not that big of a chance. And then after it’s started just make sure it’s full and get a few full rotations
Would it be recomended to replace power steering pump also? Gonna be replacing gear box, ball joints and tie rods on my 99 gmc suburban. Accidental off roading and plowing over a good sized sapling knocked some shit out of alignment. Had a puddle of fluid later that day and same search to find gear box. Brush or my case tree guard is why i aint replacing a lot more. But i might throw in a new pump as well.
As long as the pump is still working and not leaking I don’t think there is a reason to replace it. Those pumps are a simple design that rarely fail - only get less efficient.
Can you please tell me what size socket(s) you used for the pitman arm?. I have to do take my steering gear box out my 98 chevy today or tomorrow. Thank you good sir .
Cool................................Thanks
Thanks
Canaan Bey no problem. It sure makes it easier to work on if you've seen it once already
I gotta 98 330,000 haha still runs like a champ
That’s awesome! Keep it going!
Lordy.
'92 K2500 - leaking pittman arm shaft seal. Leary of DIY box rebuild so pick-up reman. steering gear box for same day ease. Trying to mount arm bolt to shaft impossible and on insp. see reused shaft was beat to poop with end ground off and threads warped. Return and 2nd has good shaft, but likewise, frame mounting bolts incorrect and messing up original mounting bolts. I leave store w/out reman. garbage and refund. Learning (ty Y.T.) I can replace seal by removing 4 bolts on face plate and sliding out shaft w/out complete disassembly into worm gear, I decide to rebuild w/ original GM box. Buy and replace seal with relative ease (seals pretty easy with shaft removed). Then I go to replace aftermarket Moog pitman arm. I slip it on but it comes up short. I crank it up to !00lbs. torq but see its still well short of resting on shaft like original. I put my calipers on it and see its about .02-.03 off inside dia. of aftermarket arm, impossible to squeeze up to original arm pos. on shaft. I go to dealer to look at GM part and it slides right up into correct location on shaft with ease. Though twice the cost, well worth it. I wonder how many jocks in shops get handed parts like this from their boss and are forced to improperly install such garbage. 's why I've come to do my own work, currently replacing this and axle seal, tie rod ends as necc, shocks while my block pulled. I just hope the aftermarket Moog end stabilizer bolts & bushings I replaced aren't as bad off as their other products.
It seems like every time you try a small project there’s something that goes wrong.. it just takes extra time to get it done and get it done right!!
i was about to buy moog idler arm. thanks for the warning. ac delco it is.
I know this is 3 years old but I had a shop install a pitman and idler arm and how far up the shafts should it go because I had a little play in the pitman so I bought a 3/4 big drive and socket and tightened it up with so much force it won't move any more so my question is if I get an new oem steering box and a oem pitman arm will it slide up further im afraid they messed up the splines
It doesn’t go all the way up. It’s a tapered shaft so it gets tighter on the pitman arm the tighter the nut is. Is the play in the steering box? There is an Allen bolt with a lock nut that can be tightened
I shit you not I had the same problem but I used a ratchet and a wrench and it worked
anybody know where to find a new seal because the new gearbox didn’t come with it. i have a 95 GMC YUKON. the seal is different then what autozone is trying to sell me. or is it all the same? i can probably substitute the seal with a different one right?
Which seal? On the output shaft?
iowadiy the one that goes in between the pitman shaft and the new gearbox
I went to O’Reilley’s and they had a kit available for it
oh ok please can you give me the manufacturer name and place please because everywhere I get a gear box for my 99 Tahoe they don't work
I just went to the local O'Reilleys. I think it's just a remanufactured OEM gearbox. If you can't find one that works and your worm gear is okay there is a seal kit that's about 5% of the cost of a new gearbox
It would be a better idea to get the right bolts to mount the steering box rather then brute force the wrong threads in.
You're right, it would be. I didn't have the right bolts on hand, it was late at night, and I needed to leave in the morning, so brute force won.
@@iowadiy6361 " So brute force won" that's a funny one but a man gotta do what a man gotta do.
Is that a C or K? I need help finding a gearbox for my 98 C1500.
It’s a K. I think that the parts store would have one... otherwise a junkyard would probably have good success too
How not to replace a steering box lol
How long did this take you?
did you fix the problem does it work like new now the steering box you ordered is it perfect feel like stock
It feels exactly the same as it did before the seal went out. The steering box was a remanufactured gearbox, but there have been zero problems and I've run it for a couple thousand miles now.
Did you put in the stock gear ratio? 16:1 I'm pretty sure. Or did you go for a quick ratio 12:1 or a 13-16:1?
I replaced it with stock.. it took me two nights after work to get it done. I had quite a few issues along the way though. If everything is loose and done right the first time it would only take a couple of hours I'm sure
Things not going my way, the sorry of my life on most repairs.
It's Cain of adjustment my 1996 is a Chevy Silverado
what tool are need for this?
+Michael Thompson I'd recommend a full socket/wrench set to start with. You will also need a ball joint/tie rod separator. Those can be bought at any auto parts store
What’s the part number
I believe it was 503-0150 at O'Reilley's.
Just story telling, not very instructional. Just sayin.
I’m not really trying for the step by step instructions, just trying to help out the guy who wants the general idea of what he needs to do and what problems might come up