Good video, clear and consise with no fluff. A very hard to find hairline crack in the plastic cover gives the same symptons, it opens up when you tighten the three screws and leaks air......How do i know😉😉 The clearance value for the rotor is 0.06mm at the 12 o'clock position.
Glad to see a video with no pets, no kids, and no background music, thereby interfering with instructional purpose of the video. This is a good standard of how these videos are supposed to be. GOOD JOB !
You should set the rotor wheel .06" from the top of the housing according to the shop manual. The fin should be installed with their rounded ends out to rub against the outer ring to pump air.
I dont know if you are still answering questions here but I need help if you are.. I have the 125t professional series. The ignitor glows for about 5-10 seconds and then goes off, the fan never starts, I dont know if the fan not starting is causing the ignitor to turn off or if the ignitor turning off to soon is causing the fan not to spin??? I got aggravated and kicked it, not hard, and it started right up and ran until I turned it off, now its back to the same issue. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Edit: I meant to say also the fan spins fairly easily by hand so its not locked up. Seems to have a capacitor under the motor but its made in the wiring and I cant find any mention of replacing it anywhere online, everywhere just says buy a new motor.
I had this problem as well. One of my motors siezed up and the ignitor or glow plug did the same thing. See if you can turn the man on the motor. Make sure its unplugged before you do. If it doesnt spin freely it may be locked up. When you plug it in the fan should start with the glow plug. the motor for the fan is also the same motor that runs the air pump. The unit will shut down when it doesnt start so it doesnt burn up. You can also try plugging it in and carefully try to rotate the fan to see if you can jump start it.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Thanks for the reply! The motor spins fairly easily, Im thinking it may be the capacitor under the motor but its mad inline and everywhere on the internet says its built in and you have to replace the whole motor. But I think there has to be a way around that since the motor isnt locked up.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe I will do, soon as im able to fix it.. I hurt my back so been unable to get out in the shop this past few days but soon as I can I will share.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Okay so I used a jumper wire from the red wire to the black wire, fan kicks on and runs perfectly, did it numerous times just to be sure. I have a multimeter but not sure what settings I should use on it and what to touch it to on the circut board to see if it is telling the fan to kick on. Any advice?
Those older units have been replaced with electronic ignition and brushless motors and thermostats. No need for all that old technology. But if you can fix it your golden.
i see a reading of 1 on rear gague and i see you guys saying should read 4 psi ?? also on my mi t m 200,000 btu i get an error code of E1 IN LITTLE digital screen ??? just blows air but not flame or heat ??? why
I did find what appears to be the manual for your torpedo heater. I will leave the link. www.mitm.com/pdf/manuals/heaters/kerosene-portable-heaters.pdf Scroll down to page 18. Have you checked any of these?
Mine doesn’t light up when turned on. What should I do? I took it apart and those disk moved like they should and tried the hose trick also. Runs 10 seconds and shuts off. I can tell it’s spraying fuel out too.
It probably has a bad glow plug or igniter . There is a link in the description to what they look like. You may be able to find the one your looking for through the link. I hope this helps. All it takes for one of these to not work is a hairline crack. If you dont have a mutimeter to check it look for a micro white line on the igniter.
I changed the hot surface igniter for 60$ and then the spark plug would spark but still not heat. I changed the photo cell and it still won’t fire. But I fire it with my torch and then it runs. But I see arching on the cylinder like it grounded. So I’m gonna look they the old wires and see what’s going on.
i have 115,000 btu the problem with mine is it starts then just cuts off probably 10 seconds after i've changed the hoses & check everything i think it's an electrical problem but i'm not 100% sure
Good video, clear and consise with no fluff.
A very hard to find hairline crack in the plastic cover gives the same symptons, it opens up when you tighten the three screws and leaks air......How do i know😉😉
The clearance value for the rotor is 0.06mm at the 12 o'clock position.
Wow, never would have figured that out. I think this one comment will help many! This one deserves a pin!
Glad to see a video with no pets, no kids, and no background music, thereby interfering with instructional purpose of the video. This is a good standard of how these videos are supposed to be. GOOD JOB !
Thank you!
Thanks Joe I'm 62 and I learned a lot from your video thank you very much you rock buddy
Thank you Chip! You are welcome!
Very good & informational, I have a ready heater doesn’t work so I will check it out ur way. Thanks
Richard
You're welcome!
The pump Vanes were sticky. Why did you buy new parts when you could have cleaned originals?
Thanks for the video. I cleaned my vanes and it works great again
You're welcome!
Very nice video very well done thank you
You should set the rotor wheel .06" from the top of the housing according to the shop manual. The fin should be installed with their rounded ends out to rub against the outer ring to pump air.
It's suppose to be .003" - .004" from rotor to ring. Not .060".
Excellent video this
Great video
I dont know if you are still answering questions here but I need help if you are.. I have the 125t professional series. The ignitor glows for about 5-10 seconds and then goes off, the fan never starts, I dont know if the fan not starting is causing the ignitor to turn off or if the ignitor turning off to soon is causing the fan not to spin??? I got aggravated and kicked it, not hard, and it started right up and ran until I turned it off, now its back to the same issue. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Edit: I meant to say also the fan spins fairly easily by hand so its not locked up. Seems to have a capacitor under the motor but its made in the wiring and I cant find any mention of replacing it anywhere online, everywhere just says buy a new motor.
I had this problem as well. One of my motors siezed up and the ignitor or glow plug did the same thing. See if you can turn the man on the motor. Make sure its unplugged before you do. If it doesnt spin freely it may be locked up. When you plug it in the fan should start with the glow plug. the motor for the fan is also the same motor that runs the air pump. The unit will shut down when it doesnt start so it doesnt burn up. You can also try plugging it in and carefully try to rotate the fan to see if you can jump start it.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Thanks for the reply! The motor spins fairly easily, Im thinking it may be the capacitor under the motor but its mad inline and everywhere on the internet says its built in and you have to replace the whole motor. But I think there has to be a way around that since the motor isnt locked up.
@@jasoncolwell5423 Please share the remedy of your problem so others can benefit and I as well! :)
@@Doityourselfwithjoe I will do, soon as im able to fix it.. I hurt my back so been unable to get out in the shop this past few days but soon as I can I will share.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Okay so I used a jumper wire from the red wire to the black wire, fan kicks on and runs perfectly, did it numerous times just to be sure. I have a multimeter but not sure what settings I should use on it and what to touch it to on the circut board to see if it is telling the fan to kick on. Any advice?
Those older units have been replaced with electronic ignition and brushless motors and thermostats. No need for all that old technology. But if you can fix it your golden.
lube the vanes with graphite powder
i see a reading of 1 on rear gague and i see you guys saying should read 4 psi ?? also on my mi t m 200,000 btu i get an error code of E1 IN LITTLE digital screen ??? just blows air but not flame or heat ??? why
I did find what appears to be the manual for your torpedo heater. I will leave the link. www.mitm.com/pdf/manuals/heaters/kerosene-portable-heaters.pdf Scroll down to page 18. Have you checked any of these?
nice thank you well said
You're welcome and thank you!
It’s suppose to have 3 thousands gap on that rotor. That information would help a newbie.
I'd imagine most newbies don't know what 3 thousands is 😂
@@dawarmonky2122 Exactly. Or they don't know the difference between sae and metric.
Mine doesn’t light up when turned on. What should I do? I took it apart and those disk moved like they should and tried the hose trick also. Runs 10 seconds and shuts off. I can tell it’s spraying fuel out too.
It probably has a bad glow plug or igniter . There is a link in the description to what they look like. You may be able to find the one your looking for through the link. I hope this helps. All it takes for one of these to not work is a hairline crack. If you dont have a mutimeter to check it look for a micro white line on the igniter.
Thank you I have had it a few years and would like to start using it.
@@greenwaldmusic9623 Please comment back here and let me know what the problem was. It may help someone else.
Thanks!
I changed the hot surface igniter for 60$ and then the spark plug would spark but still not heat. I changed the photo cell and it still won’t fire. But I fire it with my torch and then it runs. But I see arching on the cylinder like it grounded. So I’m gonna look they the old wires and see what’s going on.
@@greenwaldmusic9623 Thanks for getting back!
Why not clean it an put graphite on an put back together.
I did in a previous video.
Mine has a spark plug and I can't get no spark what would that be
i have 115,000 btu the problem with mine is it starts then just cuts off probably 10 seconds after i've changed the hoses & check everything i think it's an electrical problem but i'm not 100% sure
My propeller wont spin freely li yours i drop my heater from a truck and wont start now
Thanks
Awesome
Good reason to go with propane.
Here is another rotor kit installation video !! ua-cam.com/video/nFebvEPF_Tg/v-deo.html