Garage Door Remote Not Working / Logic Board Repair
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Procedure to fix garage door opener circuit/logic board issues.
Should work for any year or for any manufacture.
Capacitor Measurements on Circuit Cards: • How to measure a capac...
Thank you for sharing your helpful tip with me and others. My Craftsman garage door opener, manufactured in 1998, recently stopped working and I tried various solutions, like replacing the battery and checking for radio signal interference, but nothing worked. After concluding that the circuit board needed to be replaced, I searched online for a new or used one, which cost between $120-$150, as well as instructions for replacing it. During my search, I stumbled upon your video accidentally and found it very useful. I didn't bother to check the capacitor using a meter and simply removed the old one. At a local electrical part store, I bought a new one for only $0.99 and also purchased a soldering kit from Walmart. Following your step-by-step instructions, I was able to fix my garage door remote control and it now works like new!! As a woman who had not previously used a soldering iron, I hope my experience coupled with your video instructions can help others who are on a tight budget like myself and may have similar issues with their garage door remote control. Thank you for sharing this helpful video and I wish you all the best in health, happiness, and prosperity. 🙏
Glad I could help you.
This was exactly my problem on a 20 year old Craftsman. I have been going crazy trying all sorts of things to avoid replacing the board ($135) or the entire opener. Found the capacitor on Amazon for a few bucks. It worked! Thanks!!
Thanks! Glad it helped you.
My Lift master garage door opener is from 1998. I was facing $500 to replace it. I saw another video that suggested changing out the very large capacitor that is mounted near the motor. When that didn't work I assumed it was not repairable until I found this video. I took a shot and for $3 I found the same capacitor that you changed on your circuit board. I changed it and it all works again! Thank you so much! You literally saved me $500!
Great to hear!
I have a 20 year old 3/4 hp Liftmaster. For a few weeks I was noticing it was acting up, then one day it was totally inoperative. Other troubleshooting vids recommended replacing the logic board which is usually $50-150 for the part, but the one for mine was obsolete/unavailable. After watching multiple videos I stumbled upon one that mentioned the capacitor. There was only one on the board so removal and check showed is was no longer in spec although it wasn't popped/split open on top. 24 hrs later I had replacements in hand (five for $5). Been working well for two years since that fix. As you noted, cracks in solder joints due to vibration could be causing intermittent issues, so good to check for those too.
Hi Chuck, this procedure worked like a charm, thank you for explaining and documenting it so well! I used a 330uf 50-volt electrolytic capacitor to allow a little extra headroom on the voltage rating. A few additional pointers that may help others: the negative stripe on the capacitor faces the nearby edge of the board. When done with the repair, if your garage door only opens a few inches, you may have bumped the limit potentiometer as I did during the repair. If so, simply use a screwdriver to adjust the blue (on a Craftsman operator) "KG Up" potentiometer value upward, just enough to get the door to open fully. That did the trick for me. The initial symptom I had was that the remote button began working erratically; sometimes several presses were necessary to get the door to operate. That symptom led me to believe the battery in the remote was weak, but testing proved otherwise. Eventually the remote would not open the door at all, but the wall buttons worked. Now, the operator is working beautifully again!
Worked like a charm - THANK YOU for saving us big bucks! Our 2001 LiftMaster was doing this exact same thing. I knew it had something to do with the logic board and priced one of those out - $149+. Found a place on eBay that would refurbish the logic board for $50. Then I stumbled across your video and thought, this is a no brainer! bought a pkg of 6 of the capacitors (only came in a pk of 6) for ~$8. Soldered the one at the top like you did in and worked perfectly! I figured you saved us ~$500 (cost of new opener + install). Good Karma to you! Thank you so very much. -John
Great to hear.
I stumbled on this video while looking for a way to diagnose my controller board for a 10 yo Craftsman 1/2 hp opener. I had the feeling that the light was involved and thought that my LED lamp was causing interference (it was not). Short story is I replaced the came capacitor even though there was no sign of leakage or bulging and now my opener works again. Mant Thanks!!!
Great!
Glad I could help.
Thank you Chuck. It's been a minute since I've used a soldering iron but here I am with an operational garage door unit and about $120 still in my pockect. Total repair was $8.00 and 20 minutes from start to finish..
Great!
Thank you so much for this video. Your instructions as to what was happening when the light was on was vary informative. I followed your directions to repair it and it now works great. Thanks again.
Great. Thanks!
thank you for sharing this excellent insight and walkthrough. i have a 3800pld with purple learn button door opener and a 398lm wall control panel where the motion detector light on/off control stopped working, as in it would turn light on and leave it on. i purchased latest 889lmmc wall control panel having been told the wall control panel motion detection sensor must be broken and the new wall control panel not only doesn't work it makes a constant buzz sound. someone in a reddit forum exchange said issue with new wall control panel, and perhaps the existing ones motion detection, is the logic board and to replace it. replacing the capacitor(s) sounds like a better first thing to try given what you stated here and fact that everything else about door opener and original wall control panel is working fine.
Exact same issue! Exact same solution!!! Thanks.
Glad it helped
The old opener you fixed is awesome
Now I have to look up how to test a cap. LOL
Thanks, and God bless you!
My opener was working slow. I unplugged it, still slow on battery backup. I unplugged the battery and plugged the opener back in, nothing. Then i plugged the battery back in, now thats not either either. The wall button doesnt even light up anymore. I know theres power to the outlet and the issue is with the opener but why would it act like theres no power? Its only 3 months old
Someone else provided the same information on UA-cam in a one minute video. Yes, this "fix" can work, but there is no guarantee this is the problem. I performed this "fix" on TWO operators and neither worked.
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My Liftmaster remote stopped working with the opener lights on. I chose to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and now all is well.
Great to hear.
Hi
Would you be able to share what meter reader you used to read the capacitors?
Thank you
Yes I can.
ua-cam.com/video/3j7NEBNal-0/v-deo.html
Awesome. I am going to try this on mine. Not sure how you explained polarity. How do I tell what goes where. Appreciate you putting this together.
Some capacitors "electrolytics" are polarized. Meaning they have a positive (+) and a negative (-). Just be sure to install the new cap the same direction as the old one.
Did you consider replacing the other 5 smaller electrolytic capacitors on the logic board also?
I have two openers with the exact same problem. Since Radio Shack is gone by the way of the buffalo, where would I find a new capacitor? I have another opener that I have saved for parts and I’m thinking about swapping out the circuit boards. It a few year’s old and has a yellow learn button.
I not sure if you should swap circuit cards. You can get capacitors online. Ebay, Amazon, or just do a Google search for some other place.
How do I measure or test the capacitors in circuit ?
Not sure what the procedure is ?
I power up the board and measure the voltage ?
Thx
Here is my other video on how to check capacitors in circuit with no power applied. ua-cam.com/video/3j7NEBNal-0/v-deo.htmlsi=4FksKWdg50DXUB_D
@@gse244 I’ll watch the video shortly . But does measuring the capacitor on the board give the same results as if the capacity was stand alone ? I would think being part of a circuit would influence it’s measured value
Thx
You have a link for capacitor kit on Amazon?
Capacitor 4.7UF 6.8UF 10UF 15UF 22UF 47UF 100UF 220UF 330UF 470UF 680UF 1500UF Electrolytic Capacitors Kit 6.3V 10V 16V 25V 35V 50V 100V 400V,295Pcs a.co/d/7tKfSSQ
I bought this kit so I would have other caps to fix tv also.
Would you happen to know the values of those other 5 capacitors?
Will be listed on the side of the caps.in uF. And the voltage value too.
Yes I realize this but I was planning to order all the caps before removing the logic board.@@gse244
miss