It is so awesome to see a contractor do the prep work into the job that makes the finish look like it should! I see so many guys on UA-cam spray the finish without caulking and fixing the imperfections like holes cracks and water damage. Great job sir. You give your customers the job that their paying for.
You would be surprised how many people are against caulking joints, cracks etc. I guess you just have to make the mistake NOT to caulk, have water damage and warp mdf, wood etc and very unhappy client to call you to understand this some act of professionalism. I simply do what is best given the condition and expectations of my clients. Every client is unique and I do what they pay me to do but I also educate them when that is needed it. Some clients actually know what they want and they get their way and I am totally fine with that. Cheers happy holidays
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I understand I retired last year. I had a Residential and Commercial Paint business for 24 years. I miss it but glad to be enjoying time with my wife and getting yo travel. Other than the pandemic things is good. I wish you the best have a great day.
When I used to do cabinet doors I built a spray stand with 2x4s and a lazy Suzan on top. This way I could remain in one position at a comfortable height and simply rotate the door as I sprayed it. I used the rubber padding that is made for area rugs to keep them from slipping attached to the plywood on the lazy Suzan with some hot melt glue. This protected the door as well as prevented it from slipping..
I have used a similar method, only issues is the moving of every single piece to spray adds up a lot of time, laying them like you see on video is way faster and results are similar. Its great to know that you used another system than mine as it also helps prevent back pain/issues from the bending over too much....cheers...
Wow I shoot cabinets exactly same process same sprayer same methods. Only difference is I have a drying rack that I stack the doors on to dry. For touch ups I have a local store that will fill spray cans with lacquer I provide. Excellent job. Lacquer is the best choice by far as you know. I even label the doors like you do. I tape off the styles exactly same as you. If I have client who will complain about smell like in apartment units I use waterbase lacquer. I prefer the Nitro. The waterbase can sometimes cause an amber color in spots. Bondo and caulk same way. I am going to switch to a fresh air system. What people should know is painting cabinets is less expensive but doesnt hold up or look as smooth. Lacquer is the way to a glass like showroom finish. After about 3 weeks the lacquer is cured and becomes pretty much bullet proof and looks great for years. Great video.
Seems we were taught the right way of doing things and that is a great feeling. I would use racks but it's simply less equipment to carry around and less moving, I simply lay out ladders and spray all in one shoot....lacquer is super easy to fix if you mess up...paint is a slow process and finishes are tough to get unless you have a shop etc...cheers keep up the quality work.
Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results.
Definitely did a superb work on the prep and that is Key to a long lasting product. Lots of work and I am sure you appreciate the fact that you did it all yourselves. Cheers!!
have you tried graco fflp tips, at half the fluid pressure? less high pressure tips spits at trigger open , trigger closed. They can tint your lacquer primer close to your darker finish color Make sure if your old clear finish is well sanded, because a fast dry lacquer wont bite as deep as a slower dry primer reason : if the cabinet get bumped with a slightly blunt object, it can chip the more brittle lacquer primer off easily. No one knows this until its too late, because this was not bare wood for a quick dry lacquer to absorb into to grab deeper. It usually happens like when a quick dry Zinzer is applied over a harder older lacquer finish being your base and not well sanded. get 2 5 gal buckets, one long scaffolding wood planks, set your cabinet doors on top of small cut wood pieces to elevate them. This elevates your doors higher off the floor eliminating overspray or kicking up dust off the floor into your sprayed doors. Also flooding so much paint on your ladder and tarps. Also get red rosin paper to put on floor, save your tarps from a dust mess from loaded up tarps I spray alot of cabinet doors on my 16 ft aluminum scaffolding plank. I wrap each small wood pieces to place under cabinet doors to elevate them with the blue paper towels so there is a soft surface each newly dried face wont get the wood to press into it.
Good info on the blue paper towels... i've gotten to the point where I prefer to spray and dry horizontally but the wood press is always an issue. will try to use it on my painter's rack as well, cutting them into small strips and wrapping them around the bars. As for lacquer, I'm not sure he was using lacquer (in white???).
Dios mío finally another professional painter on UA-cam. Greetings. Nice job. I do mostly lacquer in high end homes, trim doors etc. You should try a kremlin sprayer sometime. They are amazing. Fast and excellent finish. Cheers. Richard Paining in British Columbia
I use a sealer for the wood - anything really, then Tractor Implement Paint as a base coat and whatever color and material on top of that after a light sanding. Tractor implement paint is crazy tough and hard - no cracking or peeling it sticks like crazy.
I am totally with you on this however every client gets what they like and I simply have to deliver what they want. Customer is always right. Right? Lol 😆 I get your point though.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 your doing right to caulk openings, your doors arent new, they have dried over a long time for wood shrinkage Just be sure to pump that caulk deep enough into cracks, caus caulk shrinks alot when dry. Using the dap with silicone added will get you expansion room to move , and it doesnt expand and contract enough to worry about it. I’ve come back 20 years later and my caulk is in great shape. I know how some high end factory finish pre finished cabinet door sometimes have the panels without caulk. It isnt always best for appearance to leave it open on older cabinet doors. Some clear ,natural finish doors may already have half the crack filled previously anyway
I paint cabinets and use the Renner 2K waterborne polyurethane top coats. I always caulk. I use a high-grade, very flexible caulking and I have NEVER had a problem. Roy have you actually had problems with caulk or are you just passing on what is considered standard procedure?
Awesome job guys! You make it look so easy (and I know it's not). I am doing a kitchen remodel now and you just gave me the motivation to at least try this myself. Much appreciated!!!
Great comment and thank you. Some people don't take pride for whatever reason, we take pride because we like what we do and we know how to do it. Some people know how to do things but are not happy doing them...and some think they know until they try and realize its harder than what we make it seem. Any one can do it, just have to take step at a time, patience and the end results are way better, best of it all YOU DID IT YOURSELF. 🥂
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 great vid. I'm building our new kitchen and called a sherwin williams commercial finishings store today. Was very disappointed in the persons attitude. Stressed more that you have to spray it in a spray booth at a shop with zero exceptions. I recently upgraded my hvlp setup to a fuji q5. Looking forward to spraying precat lacquer but will go with Benjamin Moore if a store is closer than sherwin.
@@LongIslandHobbyist sorry about that experience, some time it's simply best to brush it off and move on. From my experience, people at many paint stores or directly dealing with multiple customers throughout the day, get a bit edgy and some people simply don't have social skills as to accommodate each customer. I can advise to use regular but better if using precat as it toughest, you don't need a spray booth, but make sure you dust off and have zero wind flowing from fans or from windows and doors being open. You do need ventilation, keep in mind this stuff is very explosive, no smoking, no heat guns or anything that can set it off. Benjamin Moore sells Mohawk lacquers as well, they do here in CA, they have great Lacquer products...good luck and above all...have fun doing it....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thanks for the advice. Are you using regular water based lacquer in the video? I'm fine with using that as well. I'm just new to the lacquer scene.
I live in Alabama and we use a similar product down here it’s called kem aqua plus. (Sherwin Williams)Sherwood kem Aqua plus, water based pigmented or clear laquer. Primer- Sherwood kem Aqua plus surfacer E64 W 520 (product number) Top coat- Sherwood kem Aqua plus M64 W 522 (product number)
I'm familiar the Aqua plus line up. Its good stuff as well specially when you have a lot of cabinets and the drying time doesn't need to be fast. I will have to try doing a lacquer clear top coat and see if it holds up since its a water borne product.
Yea we like it because we get picky customers that complain about the smell sometimes, this is less harsh. Drytime is not that bad about 30-40 mins and fully cured in 24 hrs. Just another option to keep in the bag. Awesome video love your Titan setup, I got to get one of those. Keep up the great work and great videos.
I personally would not recommend. Caulking those cabinets. They were made like that. So the wood can shrink and expand with the weather if you seal that line I think It is possibly it will crack down the middle panel. When weather changes because the wood will try to move And since it’s sealed it will split
If you dont caulk water will seep through cracks and brake down the top coat over time. Caulking expands and contracts with wood, its the perfect solution for cabinets, specially kitchen cabinets.
@@Stevesbe nothing lasts forever. But like the other gentleman said, you just inform the clients and let them choose, no right way "per say"....I personally caulk all cracks to avoid moisture or any liquids getting into cracks and avoid failure.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Dapp 33 window glazing . You can color match it and use it on clear and stained finishes also. Takes a little more time but the quality of workmanship is well worth it takes your cabinets from contractor quality to museum quality. The trick is a quarter inch towel sharpened in a pencil sharpener with the tip upturned & V'ed . Pushes the putty right into the joint cleans everything up nice and pretty usually between first and second seal.
Funny things is I always used water based and oil base products for cabinets and never liked lacquer or conversion vanishes due to high risks and smells but the finishes are just incredibly smooth and durable. Can't go wrong with urethane paint now adays and its also durable. A few downfalls to it but still a very good choice.
I just did my kitchen in Aristoshield from Dunn-Edwards, an alkyd paint. I have some more cabinetry to build in other rooms, and was considering lacquer for the fast recoat times. As a hobbyist, and not a professional, is that a terrible idea?
Yes I do used them but that one project the new cartridges had not arrived and it was a must do with what you have deal. Thanks for that note/tip...cheers
@@miketibbs6149 only for paint, correct. There are a bunch of other things needing repair or change, and it adds up quickly! Also, babysitting laborers isn’t my vibe ...
Nice technique man. I’m a painter also. Hey you should try the kremlin sprayers. They are excellent. I spray all trim and doors in high end new houses with lacquer now. It has raised me a cut above the crowd. The kremlin and excite gun make me look good and as you know lacquer is cheaper and easier to work with.
Thanks for suggestion on that Kremlin, It works great I personally have not used it much, I really like the titan, easy cleaning and setup and hook up a few 25ft lines and it keeps pressure just right. I am sure you do great work and even better if lacquering all the doors and trim, I do it sometimes too just not too crazy about it since it does wear on the body/health in the long run. You must wear all the protection gear else its one thing for the other. Either way I like painting and seeing my finished products, my clients sometimes are speechless....as I am sure same happens on your end...cheers...keep painting...
@@jcresmond1653 we used a wornout/dead 220. It doesn't deep scratch and does leave the surface smooth with all surfaces ready to take in whatever you throw at it.
Good evening! I just found your channel and you guys do really nice work. I’m just wishing the name of your company was David’s Gulf Coast Painting because I definitely be paying you a visit. I bought a 19ft Motorhome a and looking to do a makeover on the cabinets. I actually have a paint sprayer but to be honest... I don’t have the confidence to use it. 🤦🏻♀️. I’ve even thought about taking the doors to my local auto paint shop!! Technically they’re for an auto. Right?!? Lol. I’m now doing research to see if there’s a low sheen lacquer out there on the market.
there are a few sheens you can pick from depending on where you go and what product is being used. There are Matte, low sheen/satin, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss...
looks great..a local rep recommened he water based laquer but said i didnt need an undercoat....all white cabinets yellowed.....old stain bleeding through..shoulda known better and ran an undercoat like this but you wanna believe the sherwin reps hahaha
That's a bummer, he should have recommended an undercoater but maybe a miscommunication issue there with rep. I'm sure he meant the aqua Is a non yellowing but one must always use and undercoat just to be on the safe/sure side of things....
I should add, I’m debating between a Titan impact 440 and this sprayer. I spray a lot of cabinetry, but also need the versatility of being able to spray interiors and exteriors occasionally
If I were you, I'd buy the ONE I would use the most, have that pay for other . I like to keep them separate as they will last longer without clogging issues....but only you know your necessary equipment.
Sorry I know theres 600+ comments, tried to search thru them to answers my questions but… What type of sprayer did you use? Oil based primer or lacquer? What type of topcoat…Sherwin? Thanks! Great work!
I am using the Titan ED655 plus and using Lacquer undercoater and top coat from Gemini..I use various Lacquer brands not too sure whichever one I used on this particular vid
Lacquer does dry fast but comes with the cost of a wicked odor and tougher cleanup. Home owners who want to do this but don't have the equipment can try brushing on sherwin williams acrylic/alkyd paint. Dry time is reasonable, odor is ok, and it levels well.
What special equipment other than a sprayer? It seems like this would be much faster to do and easier to clean up rather than cleaning brushes and pans. I was going to go that route but watching this video has me thinking this would make more sense.
@@susantaulli730 what i meant by equipment was a decent sprayer, which is a cost, the space to do it, some kind of rack (they used a ladder), rosin paper and tape, etc. Set up and clean up is timely for that. You can clean a brush out in minutes when you know how to. Acrylic alkyd paint cleans with water. Lacquer paint cleans with lacquer thinner (another cost) and you have to dispose of that somewhere. You need a proper mask/ventilator if you want to avoid fumes and open space that is dust free. Lacquer is a nicer finish if you can pull that all off. But it takes experience to do that well. They make it look easy due to hundreds of hours of practice as painters (I know as I have been one myself for 35 years). Not saying people can't so I'm not trying to discourage. Let me just say this- after all the years of painting i have done, i usually brush finish on cabinets still. And customers are very pleased
Great job I spray cabinets as well I use a lacquer paint from WOODFINISHERSDEPOT and put a clear coat in top after paint is applied every thing was great I just advice got work to look better after putting undercoater check all the wood with spackling for any damage on them
Thanks for that tip, we do that prior to primer coating but going over it once more doesn't hurt a thing. Always keep on learning something new.... cheers
Still a lot of sheen on these doors before spraying. Always been the standard to scuff first. Even if it’s just a 3m gold scotchbright pad. Sometimes called giving it a tooth.
Those high pressure hoses can be a pain. Always find something to tangle on. You could jump out of an airplane with just your spray gun and 200 feet of high pressure hose and be safe. I guarantee you it get hung on something before you hit the ground.......
Lol funny guy...just remember that the actual cabinets inside the house need to sprayed out, hose needs to be able to reach them without moving sprayer more than once....I see some people move sprayer multiple times because they have short hoses and its simply an overkill....milking it basically. We get in and out.
I want to spray lacquer on my cabinet doors outside but what do I do about the actual cabinet that is inside my house? Can I roller/brush that part? I'm too nervous to spray inside of my house.
Amy, I don't recommend rolling or brushing lacquer as it dries fast and not enough time for rolling, unless you are mighty fast. For inside the house, mask around the cabinets with paper and tape double layers. Make sure your windows and doors are open for ventilation, and maybe have a fan turned ON blowing AWAY from spray area, not too close to the actual spray zone. It's really not that hard but if you take these simple steps then you will be just fine. Expect dust so if you have a lot of inside spray to do then make spray booth and take short break as to not build up too many vapors inside the booth. If you have never used lacquer, then I highly recommend hiring a professional and check references, some painters are not lacquer/fine coating finishers. Above all have fun doing it!!
Lacquer is not a hard finish. It is soft. It also yellows quickly. Finishers use it because it is easy to sand. It is not a good finish to use if you want really good cabinets. If you are going to have somebody spray your cabinets , have them use a water white conversion varnish.
Keith, everyone's comments are welcome, we can disagree here and there. Lacquer is a hard finish, not sure why you would say they are soft. Older lacquers did yellow over the years but is wasn't as noticeable, oil base clears and paints yellow over the years as well but not as noticeable for 5+ years. By then many people change colors and call for maintenance. Not sure what lacquers you are referring to be soft, manufacturers and data sheets state they are hard finishes. Lacquer is easy to sand but that is not why people like it, there are many more reasons and easy-to-sand is definitely not a high priority. Again, all comments are welcome and we can agree to disagree. Cheers
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I'm saying they are soft because I worked in the coatings industry for 20+ years both as a finisher myself and I worked for companies who sold coatings.
@@keithwinnett7747 I sprayed coatings just about the same time and still disagree. Conversion varnishes are great too and hard but I still go lacquer any day. I will bring up this with sales reps and check of their products. Just for my info. Thanks
I used Sherwin Williams undercoater....guess u can think of it as a primer. Then the lacquer top coat. Sanded between coats as needed. No sanding after last coat.
To set the record straight. What does "better" mean to you? Faster? Lacquers aren't meant to be applied like latex paint. An Air gun (Like a SATA or Tekna ProLite) or HVLP gives the absolute finest finish with finest control. When I first saw this video I thought it was from 20+ years ago lol. I started spraying lacquers 43 years ago and that was the way to create a custom show paint job (30 coats of hand rubbed lacquer). I used PPG and DuPont lacquers & Acrylic Urethanes on cars (restored 23) and on furniture (cabinet and furniture maker in business over 4 decades). Lacquers took away business from oils & shellac (finish of choice for 1000s of years) all in the name of productivity. Lacquer is definitely a "hard" finish, however that's relative. Today lacquer would be considered a low-mid range finish. IF the goal is the ultimate in durability and even aesthetics (certain times) then lacquer won't be on your radar screen. Conversion varnish or automotive acrylic urethane, those are super hard. I started using automotive finishes on my wood projects 40 years ago and is mostly what I use because of how durable it is. We used to use DuPont Imron for frames and suspension pieces, today, powder coating is the ultimate finish. However, I still use shellac, tung oil (pure), lacquer, polyurethane, wiping varnish, wax finish, etc. It simply depends on what the project is. Would I paint kitchen cabinets with lacquer? NO, but I don't do work in that end of the market; we don't use caulking either. Obviously the set up used here is not very clean and the end result was apparently just to clean it up a little. Lots of damage to the doors not repaired, caulking and lacquer painting with airless on ladders on the floor tells me what the budget is. Some asked "Why use lacquer? IF that's the budget, why not use lacquer? I realize it takes a lot more skill, hanging the fronts up and spraying all faces and edges at once yields the very best overall finish most efficiently. It does seem contrary to commonsense, lay a board flat and the finish smooths out much much better, however, it's about achieving perfect balance of amount of finish without sags/runs while being flat. There are always vertical surfaces on cars or furniture/cabinetry and they look just as good as the pieces painted flat. Hang the doors and develop great painting techniques. Gaining full control of your spray equipment does take time. Lots of muscle memory involved with perfect technique (NOT achieved in this particular video). There is never a one size fits all. Lots of misinformation out there. I own and use a variety of equipment for applying paint, including Binks (Models 7 & 18 & 2001) Devilbiss Tekna ProLite, Graco UltraMax (Cordless), Titan ED665 Plus, and Fuji Platinum Q5 T70 and they all have their use. I would NEVER use the Titan to spray a car, furniture or cabinetry. That doesn't mean an acceptable finish can't be completed with it, just that for the level of finish I desire it's much easier to achieve with either air or HVLP. There's only one downside to true HVLP, that's cost. My Fuji system with everything is close to $2,000.00, about 3x the cost of the Titan. I get asked all the time, which is better, to that I ask, "What are you planning on doing? The Titan ED665 Plus can't compete with the Binks,Tekna or Fuji for fine finishing, and they can't compete (Binks, Tekna won't) with the Titan when applying Latex paint on the inside or outside of a house. If you want a super smooth finish straight from the gun with very limited overspray, HVLP is the only way to go. They are expensive at the Stage 4 & Stage 5 levels, but I find over time it's less expensive if you spend more.
Yeah I agree with you I've been spraying Cabinetry for over 15 years now I'm only using binks guns and pressure pots system and I use Lacquer Base-Coat and top coat of water-based Lacquer it gives it a smooth finish that no other spray system can deliver.
@@K1llum1nati imagine that, doing it all wrong and banking on it, I guess not so wrong after all. Wise guy!! In all seriousness, Mr. ALAN points out technique and where to use certain spray systems. I appreciate criticism as it makes me want to correct and always be a better finisher, he is also an absolute pro at his comments. Well versed and not a bully like many people out there in www.
I am currently prepping original cabinets from our 1947 home. My question is why are you choosing lacquer instead of latex paint, or was the lacquer just the primer coat? I am planning to prime before painting, but now I wonder if I should be considering lacquer instead of latex primer?
Evan, I am in the Business for two reasons. First, because I truly enjoy what I do. Two, to make money. That being said, sometimes, we have very small jobs and the timing simply works better to lacquer coat instead of painting with oil or water base paints. Budget also plays a role in what products I use and then the type of finish. Some clients have properties as rentals and some have custom made homes, I am sure you get the point by now. Now to your cabinets: If I were you, I would look at the cabinets and see if they have been stained or varnished in the past (my guess is yes) if that is the case this is what I would recommend you to do: sand down a bit as to open up pores on the current surfaces, TSP or degreaser clean all surfaces, primer coat with oil base cover stain primer or Shellac primer. Then you can lightly sand again with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper (worn out is best as it doesn't burn the edges and it knocks down any raised grain or overspray). I would recommend an Alkyd- water base/borne from Home depot Berh, Sherwin williams Pro-Industrial or Emerald, Alkyd Emulsion from Vista paints or Aristo-shield from Dunn Edwards. I am not sure where you are located but you can always call different paint stores and ask for Urethane or Alkyd paints for cabinets. I recommend that type of paint since its a water base/clean up, great results and easy to use. Hard part of all is the prep, once prep is done its really a fun process to see the changes and best part is that you did it your self and you did it the "right" way.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 Thank you so much for taking time to reply. I have thought of Alkyd for this project, so it's good to hear that from a professional. The thing with this house is that nothing was ever done over the last 70+ years except additional slapped on coats of paint with no prep apparently. I'm scraping as many layers off as I can then will thoroughly sand and prime. Lots of work, but they're actually WOOD cabs and we could never afford to replace them with similar quality. Thank you again for the tips; we usually use Sherwin Williams paints.
Great video ... I use SW as well, just seeing how well you guys mask everything off tells me how professional you all are. The cabinet doors looked great after one coat, was that just camera magic lol? or did you spray them again? your primer & paint build up is actually perfect, not too much not too little. VERY WELL DONE !!!!
Really appreciate 🙏 your comment. That was simply the primer coat. I went back and did a top coat finish on all of them. I used my Samsung Galaxy S9 phone and it did great...also had a friend record this and he did a great job following my lead.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 It's the primer coat that blows me away, does. I can never get it to look like that. I find if I try to lay that much primer down (on builder grade oak cabinets) it always gas's and I get bubbles. Watching you guy's lay that primer is awesome.
@@backcountrytourn5089 are you using a undercoat lacquer base? spray in shaded area. bubbling happens for many factors but usually go lite on the primer coat and you can do 2 or 3 very lite coats of it, also add a bit of thinner or acetone to speed up the drying time.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I was practicing with lacquer for the first time. Definitely a learning curve, but I always hear how much better it is over a oil base primer. I've always just used a oil base primer and with good success, people love their new cabinets. However; I think i'll practice more lol and maybe even invest in a quality sprayer. I'm extremely curios if lacquer is really "that" much better.
@@backcountrytourn5089 oil base primer is great and can't go wrong with it but its not recommended to spray lacquer on top of it. Oil does take a long time to dry and that is 1 of the reasons why lacquer is the way to go. Lacquer dries super fast and the finishes are smoother than oil and water base products. My crew and I have painted kitchens in 1 day. Fully done in 1 day and yet maintaining the quality. Try it and when you do, you will not use oil again.
I hired “professionals” to do my cabinets and omg 😳 they ruined them. They didn’t caulk them they used rollers for both painting and priming and when they applied the primer they left the doors still on the cabinets and missed a lot of spots . Then they took the doors down for the paint and did them outside in the lawn with a drape underneath but the final result came back gritty, uneven, and with pieces of grass 😭 the owner had promised us he only trusted a few of his guys with the cabinets and that they had over 25 years experience. Next thing you know two 19-20 year olds show up to do the work and now I’m considering just buying new cabinets. I think I would’ve done a better job myself.
It's a bummer to read your cabinet project went south. I hope you withheld payment. Sounds to me like these "pros" were those what I call "clowns" who simply buy some whites and now they feel pro painters. I wound take all cabinets off, sand down to smooth finish with a 220 sand paper. Spray all areas and spray both, primer and the top coat. Sand between coats. It's a lot of work, people don't see the amount of detail that goes into the painting of any cabinet. If done right, expect to pay above average as it's quality work. Next time please ask for references, vet them out. Good luck
Fortunately they forgot to ask us for our deposit at the time of the contract signing and we haven’t paid. Thank you so much for the tip 🙏🏼 my husband and I are going to try it out ourselves with one of the smaller cabinet doors if we feel we can’t do it we will contract someone else. The company we had hired had 4.9 stars in reviews out of 200 people which is why we were shocked. And we weren’t going to pay cheap either we were going to pay $4,700 for the job which was why we thought it was going to come out great but unfortunately it was a disaster and they got it on our brand new appliances 😫. But thank you once again for the tip. 😊
Hey fellow painter! Awesome job and thank you for taking the time to answer questions.. quick question from me. Have you heard of waterborne pre cat lacquer? If so, have you used it and who carries it?
Water precat yes. I know Mohawk carries the precat and waterborne....they pretty much carry anything and everything you can possibly think of that is related to lacquer and conversion varnishes
Great video, thanks for sharing. Just getting ready to do this myself. I'm painting oak so have to do some grain filling. Couple questions: I just bought a Graco X5 sprayer, can I spray the pre catalyst with it? If so which tip shall I ise? 311? Thanks again. Great work
You can spray it but it will burn seals over extended period of time. I suggest this titan ed655 on video. Use a rack 10 from graco and a fine finish green spray tip.
Best way to touch up very small areas of cabinets that were originally spray painted with lacquer enamel. Paint is coming off in some small areas, I think from water exposer (drips and spray) since they are near sink. I Have a can of touch up paint, but it doesn't seem to cover. Do I have to do multiple coats?
Yes do multiple coats. Spray only and you have to spray the entire face of drawer/door. Lacquer is not very easy to brush or roll and spray is about the only way. Make sure to sand down gently and smooth out where its chipping/coming off.
I personally use it Mostly for cabinetry. Some times I do use it on doors and trim to keep up with timelines. Lacquer all the way makes the finishes super smooth and glossy.
Man you did such a good job bravo! My kitchen is the same color and we want to paint it to off white or cream color. Do they make those in lacquer..? I see you used Titan ED655 Plus Airless.. If you don’t mind sharing what tip is that looks so clean smooth and not to much not less is it the one that comes with machine? Did you put any thing paint or anything like that in primer and color or just went straight in got it and thats it didn’t mess with adding such as paint thinner. Looks like u only did one coat of each primer and lacquer.
You can have Lacquer tinted to any color. Any store can do this for you if they have the tinters to do it. Not that hard to find stores that sell and tint lacquers. I used Graco FF410. Fine finish tips minimize over spray and reduce the wasted material. Any paint store carry the Graco green fine finish tips. Did more than one coat of primer and top coats. Video shows bits and pieces of actual work.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thank you yes i was planning to prime it twice then paint or top coat it twice depends how it looks first time.. should i sand it in between the coats if yes 180 or 120?
I did not really go into detail as it was simply a video of simply sharing some of the work we do. I will make a video with more info. As per this particular video I used Sherwin-williams / Gemini undercoater and top coats. Graco fine finish tip 3 4hundred...sprayer was a Titan ED655 Plus at about half range pressure. Pressure Guage is not digital but I run it about half way most of the times. Hope this help a bit but I will be making another video with more info. Cheers
Very nice! can you tell me why you prefer the Lacquer vs Kem Aqua Plus from SW? Also do you have any video showing the finished product because I'd love to see how that Lacquer flattened out when it dried.
Robert, this one is top feed as it needs very little pressure, its design for and makes enough pressure for lacquer and conversion varnishes. It works great, it last really long (had one for 15yrs) and not an issue with it, even if you don't use for a month or so, it starts every time...
The ED655+ is a diaphragm pump not a piston pump. The diaphragm flutters continually when running. I have had one for 17 years without a rebuild. I leave lacquer in the hopper all the time. I recently built a similar unit from a Craigslist Wagner 404+. I bought the top valve and hopper to replace the suction tube. $300 into the pump, new parts, hose and gun! Works identically to the $800 ED 655.
Caulking the inside edges of the panels to the rails and stiles will break the seal in time with the frame’s woods expansion and contraction will it not?
Not necessarily, let caulking fully dry before coating. Caulking expands & and contracts with the wood. If you paint before caulking dries then it will crack for moisture has to find a way out...
Cabinet doors are probably small enough that any wood movement would be inconsequential to the paint finish. For larger pieces I think you have a valid concern.
You rotate your wrist too much when you‘re spraying. The spray gun is closest to the material at the center when your arm is straight and as you swing out in either direction (from center) the spray point is further away causing overspray.
I work for Sherwin and if you're going to redo your cabinets you should not do it the way professionals do it. People who spray lacquer have training and a lot of safety equipment. Use like a kills oil base and a urethane top coat.
Hi!!!!! Love this!!! Awesome work. What are all the materials and equipment used??? I want to do this to a butchers block (I fished from Home Depot) for my desk top. What do I need to buy? I want that beautiful no streak top? High gloss. Resistant to starches nicks water nicks and chips. Please answer soon I need to go buy stuff. So excited and inspired!!!!
This is a spray only type of finish. You need a gallon of lacquer vinyl sealer or undercoater (primer). Then the lacquer top coat and you can get a MATTE, SATIN, SEMIGLOSS OR GLOSS. you also need 1gallon lacquer thinner, fine sand paper to sand in between coats. Highly recommend a mask with filters not the cheap N95 masks but heavy duty 2 filter type and a pair of gloves. If you haven't done this or been around lacquer spraying, be very careful as lacquer if flammable. Make sure you spray in a well ventilated area as to avoid fumes reaching high concentrations. Have fun but safety 1st.
Amazing paint work... but i think you are using the wrong filters on your respirator. You should be using the charcoal (organic vapor) filters. The pink ones you have on there are for particles like dust and such. Basically does nothing for paint fumes and you may as well just take the respirator off. Just my 2 cents. But amazing job on the paintwork.
Thanks for pointers....I have upgraded respirators and what a difference. I only had pink on that site and had no time to get other one at home since it was was a super easy and small job but truly appreciate your tip.....thanks
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 ah ok that makes sense. And yes its a huge difference! I learned the hard way a couple years ago, except my lesson was in reverse.... i was using the organic vapors filters while doing some sand blasting with a fine abrasive. Well lets just say that i had a lot of difficulty breathing for 3 or 4 days after that. Amazing how filters work huh? Lol. Blows my mind how they can filter vapors, but not a particle thats far bigger than a vapor 🤷🏼♂️. Anyways, glad to hear you got that all sorted out. Im currently looking to switch over to the sherwin williams lacquer, but im having a hard time figuring out what to order.
whats the lacquer product? What do you say to Sherwin Williams to get them to find it? Everytime I contact Sherwin Williams they say they tell me spray lacquer is impossible and tell me they don't know anything about it....
Hi David ! Great job, nice to see quality painting. I have been painting cabinets for 10 years now. I pretty much do the same thing you do(the procedure) I would like to switch to SW Products. I currently use BIN Schllack primer and then use lacquer from ILVA (italy), sold at benjamine moore. I would love to use lacquer from SW but afraid to change. HAVE A JOB 8/31/20. CAn you help me please. When I ask SW they tell me dry time is long 4 hr. recoat. I usually spray 4 coats 1-day. I cannot wait 2 days. here is my question. you use Sherwin undercoat-ok but you say use sherwin lacquer. Can you do all 4 coats 1 day. and what exactly is the name of the product sherwood lacuer _______ what? my reps are a little confused. nervously wanting to switch, with a job next week.
Mark, Ask for the SHER-WOOD 275 VOC can label P61 WV 6. That is the undercoater/primer. For hard to stick surfaces like vinyl/veneer/laminate then use VINYL SEALER. The vinyl sealer comes in clear but ask the store to tint close to what your finish coat will be. You can spray 4 coats in 1 day even more. Sometimes being in the field is way different than in a lab; I have done it and never a complaint or issues with any projects. Shellac is also a way to go as it is a bullet proof primer, can't go wrong with that as a primer. Hope this helps. Also test the product from dunn edwards they have Exalta and Gemini. Regular and precat (tougher than regular lacquer). I try different products as a way to not be held hostage from manufacturers...lol.
Can you use lacquer and latex based paints in this Titan? I’m debating on which Titan to get. Just wondering what the changeover process is when switching between solvent based paints and latex
It's a Lacquer base from Sherwin-williams and the primer or "undercoater"s a Lacquer base as well...this is not water clean up...you have to use Lacquer thinner for clean up or to dilute it.
Hey! Amazing job. Questions for you - 1) I want to spray paint brand-new (white) kitchen cabinets provided by the builder to grey. Do I still need to put primer? 2) Since it's brand new - do I still need to sand them down? Thanks!
1. Primer only if you are not sure what typo of paint is on currently. If it's water base then use water base , if it's Lacquer or conversation varnish then simply use same/similar base product for new color. 2. Yes, lite sanding with a used 200 grit san paper is recommended. Makes sure the paint has something to bond to and you do that by sanding as it opens up the surface. Best luck to u
Wow hey what product are using? I’ve tried the pigmented lacquer from Sherwin Williams not a big fan? Also are you spraying from an airless machine just wondering about cleaning it if you are thanks great videos
Can you tell me what you are spraying as a primer coat.. I am building some built in cabinets and want to use the High Build Pre-Cat Lacqure made by Sherwin Williams but I need to know what primer to use with it.... thanks so much for you help and sharing this video
I would NOT recommend using anything other than hydraulic sprayer for big jobs and a cup sprayer for smaller and touch up jobs. Airless sprayers tend to clog up and the seals do get burnt by lacquer very quickly.
I thought you could not get lacquer or solvent based finishes in CA anymore? Are you using a waterborne or a low VOC version? What primer do you use directly on the clear coated cabinets? Is it oil based primers or vinyl sealer? Does it adhere well? Thanks! Nice work!
CA has banned the use of certain products but you can still get conversion varnishes, lacquers since they have less voc's/'eco-friendly" I am using 275 voc laquers and you can get pre-cat or regular. I use vinyl sealer as it is best for hard to stick surfaces and it adheres really well, can't go wrong, just keep in mind that the surfaces have to be sanded and cleaned with a grease remover, prep is key. Good luck in your projects
On the first topcoat you sprayed, it seemed like a lot of paint. Do you get runs and drips when you do it like that? I don’t have much experience but it seems like it would be better to spray half as much, and just do an extra coat or two? Especially because of how quickly it dries and sprays
Good finish, fine texture, smooth surface , really is great but smell as lot and people can't resist the smell bacause is extremely strong. Actually Im looking for a latex primer good for cabinets, no oil, shellac or lacquer, I mean, it would be a kind of primer that can block stain. If somebody know it, please let me know.
I was looking to get an honest opinion on a sprayer. How reliable is it?. Looks like Titan ED655 ? I use Titan Capspray 115, but I think airless such as ED655 produce less overspray? Also, really clean caulk lines on the doors. Would be interested to see the video on the best way to make clean lines with caulk. Thanks
Akd...this is the ED655 and it's very reliable. Have had it for 3-4yrs now and gone through hundreds of gallons of lacquer never any issues. The capsprayer is awesome for touchups but when doing whole kitchens or bigger surface areas like doors and bigger panels the 655 is the most efficient way. As far as caulking line on cabinets or trim I will make a video here shortly..thanks man and have fun spraying...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Sherwood line. And primer surfacer or vinyl sealer can be tinted to match your top coat. Helps with coverage. Wasn't sure if you knew that.
first step is to clean, degloss/sand or both. Primer with water, oil or shellac base. Once primer coated you can do paint. If you want to use lacquer base finishes then i recommend using lacquer base sealer or undercoater (primer- to keep things simple). You can top coat lacquer over Shellac primer but must dry and cure at least 24hrs.
It is so awesome to see a contractor do the prep work into the job that makes the finish look like it should! I see so many guys on UA-cam spray the finish without caulking and fixing the imperfections like holes cracks and water damage. Great job sir. You give your customers the job that their paying for.
You would be surprised how many people are against caulking joints, cracks etc. I guess you just have to make the mistake NOT to caulk, have water damage and warp mdf, wood etc and very unhappy client to call you to understand this some act of professionalism. I simply do what is best given the condition and expectations of my clients. Every client is unique and I do what they pay me to do but I also educate them when that is needed it. Some clients actually know what they want and they get their way and I am totally fine with that. Cheers happy holidays
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I understand I retired last year. I had a Residential and Commercial Paint business for 24 years. I miss it but glad to be enjoying time with my wife and getting yo travel. Other than the pandemic things is good. I wish you the best have a great day.
When I used to do cabinet doors I built a spray stand with 2x4s and a lazy Suzan on top. This way I could remain in one position at a comfortable height and simply rotate the door as I sprayed it. I used the rubber padding that is made for area rugs to keep them from slipping attached to the plywood on the lazy Suzan with some hot melt glue. This protected the door as well as prevented it from slipping..
I have used a similar method, only issues is the moving of every single piece to spray adds up a lot of time, laying them like you see on video is way faster and results are similar. Its great to know that you used another system than mine as it also helps prevent back pain/issues from the bending over too much....cheers...
Wow I shoot cabinets exactly same process same sprayer same methods. Only difference is I have a drying rack that I stack the doors on to dry. For touch ups I have a local store that will fill spray cans with lacquer I provide. Excellent job. Lacquer is the best choice by far as you know. I even label the doors like you do. I tape off the styles exactly same as you. If I have client who will complain about smell like in apartment units I use waterbase lacquer. I prefer the Nitro. The waterbase can sometimes cause an amber color in spots. Bondo and caulk same way. I am going to switch to a fresh air system. What people should know is painting cabinets is less expensive but doesnt hold up or look as smooth. Lacquer is the way to a glass like showroom finish. After about 3 weeks the lacquer is cured and becomes pretty much bullet proof and looks great for years. Great video.
Seems we were taught the right way of doing things and that is a great feeling. I would use racks but it's simply less equipment to carry around and less moving, I simply lay out ladders and spray all in one shoot....lacquer is super easy to fix if you mess up...paint is a slow process and finishes are tough to get unless you have a shop etc...cheers keep up the quality work.
what store does fill spray cans with your laquer for touch ups ?
You are 100% correct about the caulking. Looks so much better plus if you don’t the bridging paint will crack. Beautiful job.
Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results.
Definitely did a superb work on the prep and that is Key to a long lasting product. Lots of work and I am sure you appreciate the fact that you did it all yourselves. Cheers!!
If you would’ve had them done in lacquer, the job would’ve been completed in 1/8 of the time.
have you tried graco fflp tips, at half the fluid pressure? less high pressure tips spits at trigger open , trigger closed.
They can tint your lacquer primer close to your darker finish color
Make sure if your old clear finish is well sanded, because a fast dry lacquer wont bite as deep as a slower dry primer
reason : if the cabinet get bumped with a slightly blunt object, it can chip the more brittle lacquer primer off easily.
No one knows this until its too late, because this was not bare wood for a quick dry lacquer to absorb into to grab deeper.
It usually happens like when a quick dry Zinzer is applied over a harder older lacquer finish being your base and not well sanded.
get 2 5 gal buckets, one long scaffolding wood planks, set your cabinet doors on top of small cut wood pieces to elevate them.
This elevates your doors higher off the floor eliminating overspray or kicking up dust off the floor into your sprayed doors.
Also flooding so much paint on your ladder and tarps.
Also get red rosin paper to put on floor, save your tarps from a dust mess from loaded up tarps
I spray alot of cabinet doors on my 16 ft aluminum scaffolding plank.
I wrap each small wood pieces to place under cabinet doors to elevate them with the blue paper towels so there is a soft
surface each newly dried face wont get the wood to press into it.
Good info on the blue paper towels... i've gotten to the point where I prefer to spray and dry horizontally but the wood press is always an issue. will try to use it on my painter's rack as well, cutting them into small strips and wrapping them around the bars.
As for lacquer, I'm not sure he was using lacquer (in white???).
Dios mío finally another professional painter on UA-cam. Greetings. Nice job. I do mostly lacquer in high end homes, trim doors etc. You should try a kremlin sprayer sometime. They are amazing. Fast and excellent finish. Cheers. Richard Paining in British Columbia
Will absolutely try it out. Always like to learn new methods, techniques and tools.
You make it look so easy! Nice job! I'm about to embark on redoing cabinets for a flip house. Thanks for the video! Enjoy retirement!
It is super easy but that's cause I've been at it for some 20+yrs....good luck with the flips....retirement? What's that? Lol
Finally sameone with a good paint skills . Greetings from raleigh painter . Eres chingon cuz
If I am painting today, guess what? I will be the best painter I can be. Been doing this for a while but still have much to learn....saludos....
David's West Coast Painting paint my house 😨😍
@@andreaacosta6253 lets do it....
I use a sealer for the wood - anything really, then Tractor Implement Paint as a base coat and whatever color and material on top of that after a light sanding. Tractor implement paint is crazy tough and hard - no cracking or peeling it sticks like crazy.
As a painter for 30 years, excellent job. Only one piece of advice: you aren't supposed to caulk the panels. That's for contraction and expansion.
I am totally with you on this however every client gets what they like and I simply have to deliver what they want. Customer is always right. Right? Lol 😆 I get your point though.
True. If I had the situation, I'd fully explain it and then do whatever they ask for. So, you sir, are correct! Have a great day!
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 your doing right to caulk openings, your doors arent new, they have dried over a long time for wood shrinkage
Just be sure to pump that caulk deep enough into cracks, caus caulk shrinks alot when dry.
Using the dap with silicone added will get you expansion room to move , and it doesnt expand and contract enough to worry about it.
I’ve come back 20 years later and my caulk is in great shape. I know how some high end factory finish pre finished cabinet door sometimes have the panels without caulk. It isnt always best for appearance to leave it open on older cabinet doors. Some clear ,natural finish doors may already have half the crack filled previously anyway
Roy cadwell, what about if cabinets is wood grain?. What do you do to cover it cus its hard with sprayer machine.
I paint cabinets and use the Renner 2K waterborne polyurethane top coats. I always caulk. I use a high-grade, very flexible caulking and I have NEVER had a problem. Roy have you actually had problems with caulk or are you just passing on what is considered standard procedure?
Awesome job guys! You make it look so easy (and I know it's not). I am doing a kitchen remodel now and you just gave me the motivation to at least try this myself. Much appreciated!!!
How did it go?
@@orionred2489 It went pretty good but the video makes it look a heck of a lot easier than it is for the novice like myself.
They say if you can spray cabinets you can paint a car.
I bet having a paint sprayer will make you feel like you can move mountains and push over trees...I gotta get one ASAP...😁
Feel great to see the change by simply spraying some chemicals....
Which sprayer? Thanks
Can’t use lacquer unless you have the means to spray it.. lacquer isn’t a brush and roll material.
Very nice work guys! It's rare to see pride taken in ones work now a days. My wife wants to paint our cabinets. Ugh. Lol
Great comment and thank you. Some people don't take pride for whatever reason, we take pride because we like what we do and we know how to do it. Some people know how to do things but are not happy doing them...and some think they know until they try and realize its harder than what we make it seem. Any one can do it, just have to take step at a time, patience and the end results are way better, best of it all YOU DID IT YOURSELF. 🥂
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 no sanding?
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 great vid. I'm building our new kitchen and called a sherwin williams commercial finishings store today. Was very disappointed in the persons attitude. Stressed more that you have to spray it in a spray booth at a shop with zero exceptions. I recently upgraded my hvlp setup to a fuji q5. Looking forward to spraying precat lacquer but will go with Benjamin Moore if a store is closer than sherwin.
@@LongIslandHobbyist sorry about that experience, some time it's simply best to brush it off and move on. From my experience, people at many paint stores or directly dealing with multiple customers throughout the day, get a bit edgy and some people simply don't have social skills as to accommodate each customer. I can advise to use regular but better if using precat as it toughest, you don't need a spray booth, but make sure you dust off and have zero wind flowing from fans or from windows and doors being open. You do need ventilation, keep in mind this stuff is very explosive, no smoking, no heat guns or anything that can set it off. Benjamin Moore sells Mohawk lacquers as well, they do here in CA, they have great Lacquer products...good luck and above all...have fun doing it....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thanks for the advice. Are you using regular water based lacquer in the video? I'm fine with using that as well. I'm just new to the lacquer scene.
I live in Alabama and we use a similar product down here it’s called kem aqua plus. (Sherwin Williams)Sherwood kem Aqua plus, water based pigmented or clear laquer.
Primer- Sherwood kem Aqua plus surfacer
E64 W 520 (product number)
Top coat- Sherwood kem Aqua plus
M64 W 522 (product number)
I'm familiar the Aqua plus line up. Its good stuff as well specially when you have a lot of cabinets and the drying time doesn't need to be fast. I will have to try doing a lacquer clear top coat and see if it holds up since its a water borne product.
Yea we like it because we get picky customers that complain about the smell sometimes, this is less harsh. Drytime is not that bad about 30-40 mins and fully cured in 24 hrs. Just another option to keep in the bag. Awesome video love your Titan setup, I got to get one of those. Keep up the great work and great videos.
@@bp3393 where in AL?
Ricky Davis
I’m in Huntsville
@@rickydavis8860 I’m in Huntsville
I personally would not recommend. Caulking those cabinets. They were made like that. So the wood can shrink and expand with the weather if you seal that line I think It is possibly it will crack down the middle panel. When weather changes because the wood will try to move And since it’s sealed it will split
If you dont caulk water will seep through cracks and brake down the top coat over time. Caulking expands and contracts with wood, its the perfect solution for cabinets, specially kitchen cabinets.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 until the caulk get old and hard then cracks
@@Stevesbe nothing lasts forever. But like the other gentleman said, you just inform the clients and let them choose, no right way "per say"....I personally caulk all cracks to avoid moisture or any liquids getting into cracks and avoid failure.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Dapp 33 window glazing .
You can color match it and use it on clear and stained finishes also.
Takes a little more time but the quality of workmanship is well worth it takes your cabinets from contractor quality to museum quality. The trick is a quarter inch towel sharpened in a pencil sharpener with the tip upturned & V'ed . Pushes the putty right into the joint cleans everything up nice and pretty usually between first and second seal.
I really appreciate this whole comment section...I can see true professionalism here, and I learned alot
Great video - thank you sharing and providing answers to questions in the comments!!
Anytime buddy
Nice job 👍
I use to use a lot of lacquer, but I changed to water based urethane alkyd which I love now for ease of use and clean up .
All the best 🤙
Funny things is I always used water based and oil base products for cabinets and never liked lacquer or conversion vanishes due to high risks and smells but the finishes are just incredibly smooth and durable. Can't go wrong with urethane paint now adays and its also durable. A few downfalls to it but still a very good choice.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510
You are dead right about the smoothness of lacquer 👍
I just did my kitchen in Aristoshield from Dunn-Edwards, an alkyd paint. I have some more cabinetry to build in other rooms, and was considering lacquer for the fast recoat times. As a hobbyist, and not a professional, is that a terrible idea?
@@ericmlevy as a hobby/ experiment i think you should try it as I am almost sure you will really like the results.
@@ericmlevy
Aristoshield is fantastic water based alkyd enamel. Very durable. I use it on all my cabinet jobs .
Nice work. You may feel better if going with the charcoal cartridges for that respirator as they'll drop out the chemical vapors.
Yes I do used them but that one project the new cartridges had not arrived and it was a must do with what you have deal. Thanks for that note/tip...cheers
I want my kitchen done so badly I can taste it!!!
I have to admit... I’m a little turned on.
$5-8k you can get it done
@@miketibbs6149 only for paint, correct. There are a bunch of other things needing repair or change, and it adds up quickly! Also, babysitting laborers isn’t my vibe ...
@@AndreaShink correct, only for paint. Can’t imagine having a full kitchen remodel in today’s construction world
You did a VERY BEAUTIFUL JOB! LOOKS AMAZING 👍👍👍
Thank you....we do this every day so we make it seems like nothing special....
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 que tipo de primer usa?
@@brubra2270 uso mucho el shellac, pero tambien el lacquer undercoater cuando Los gabinetes ya han sido pintados.
Que tab fuerte es el voc de pigmented primer and top coat amigo? Del Sherwin y el shellac?
Que tan fuertes son los voc de estos products amigo?
Nice technique man. I’m a painter also. Hey you should try the kremlin sprayers. They are excellent. I spray all trim and doors in high end new houses with lacquer now. It has raised me a cut above the crowd. The kremlin and excite gun make me look good and as you know lacquer is cheaper and easier to work with.
Thanks for suggestion on that Kremlin, It works great I personally have not used it much, I really like the titan, easy cleaning and setup and hook up a few 25ft lines and it keeps pressure just right. I am sure you do great work and even better if lacquering all the doors and trim, I do it sometimes too just not too crazy about it since it does wear on the body/health in the long run. You must wear all the protection gear else its one thing for the other. Either way I like painting and seeing my finished products, my clients sometimes are speechless....as I am sure same happens on your end...cheers...keep painting...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 the titan spray model?
Fantastic job, I wish you guys were in Indianapolis area.
I need to hire them for my kitchen!
im ready
Looks good buddy very nice
Thanks for the greeting and video. Love it
Beautiful works guys very clean
Thanks jay...cheers
I always use a small brush to get inside the corners and edges first before a spray.
nice and heavy. ive seen many people cross-off like shit but youve got that! nice job brutha.
thanks J, we try to a medium or 2 lite coats on all..cheers !!
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 quick question, what grit do you guys use for the initial sanding before you primed? thanks.
@@jcresmond1653 we used a wornout/dead 220. It doesn't deep scratch and does leave the surface smooth with all surfaces ready to take in whatever you throw at it.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thats what i use, i was just curious if you have a better technique. see you around brutha! thanks.
Cool vid.i have been painting for 20 years...simple is cool...
Thank u Joe coming from another painter...and yes...simple is cool...cheers
Good evening! I just found your channel and you guys do really nice work. I’m just wishing the name of your company was David’s Gulf Coast Painting because I definitely be paying you a visit. I bought a 19ft Motorhome a and looking to do a makeover on the cabinets. I actually have a paint sprayer but to be honest... I don’t have the confidence to use it. 🤦🏻♀️.
I’ve even thought about taking the doors to my local auto paint shop!! Technically they’re for an auto. Right?!? Lol. I’m now doing research to see if there’s a low sheen lacquer out there on the market.
Okay. I need to use a low sheen topcoat. Got it!!
there are a few sheens you can pick from depending on where you go and what product is being used. There are Matte, low sheen/satin, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss...
Beautiful work! Please come to Pittsburgh PA!!!!
looks great..a local rep recommened he water based laquer but said i didnt need an undercoat....all white cabinets yellowed.....old stain bleeding through..shoulda known better and ran an undercoat like this but you wanna believe the sherwin reps hahaha
That's a bummer, he should have recommended an undercoater but maybe a miscommunication issue there with rep. I'm sure he meant the aqua Is a non yellowing but one must always use and undercoat just to be on the safe/sure side of things....
Hello I would like to know name and model of the gun and compressor you use to paint has. Excellent quality work 👍
Good work.You may want to use a charcoal filter for your respirator
Yup I bet his smelling all of that, not smart. Lacquer is strong as hell
I should add, I’m debating between a Titan impact 440 and this sprayer. I spray a lot of cabinetry, but also need the versatility of being able to spray interiors and exteriors occasionally
If I were you, I'd buy the ONE I would use the most, have that pay for other . I like to keep them separate as they will last longer without clogging issues....but only you know your necessary equipment.
Sorry I know theres 600+ comments, tried to search thru them to answers my questions but…
What type of sprayer did you use?
Oil based primer or lacquer?
What type of topcoat…Sherwin?
Thanks! Great work!
I am using the Titan ED655 plus and using Lacquer undercoater and top coat from Gemini..I use various Lacquer brands not too sure whichever one I used on this particular vid
That’s the way to do cabinets, *lacquer*
May I ask what kind of spray system and brand you are using? It looks great.
Lacquer does dry fast but comes with the cost of a wicked odor and tougher cleanup. Home owners who want to do this but don't have the equipment can try brushing on sherwin williams acrylic/alkyd paint. Dry time is reasonable, odor is ok, and it levels well.
What special equipment other than a sprayer? It seems like this would be much faster to do and easier to clean up rather than cleaning brushes and pans. I was going to go that route but watching this video has me thinking this would make more sense.
@@susantaulli730 what i meant by equipment was a decent sprayer, which is a cost, the space to do it, some kind of rack (they used a ladder), rosin paper and tape, etc. Set up and clean up is timely for that. You can clean a brush out in minutes when you know how to. Acrylic alkyd paint cleans with water. Lacquer paint cleans with lacquer thinner (another cost) and you have to dispose of that somewhere. You need a proper mask/ventilator if you want to avoid fumes and open space that is dust free. Lacquer is a nicer finish if you can pull that all off. But it takes experience to do that well. They make it look easy due to hundreds of hours of practice as painters (I know as I have been one myself for 35 years). Not saying people can't so I'm not trying to discourage. Let me just say this- after all the years of painting i have done, i usually brush finish on cabinets still. And customers are very pleased
Great job I spray cabinets as well I use a lacquer paint from WOODFINISHERSDEPOT and put a clear coat in top after paint is applied every thing was great I just advice got work to look better after putting undercoater check all the wood with spackling for any damage on them
Thanks for that tip, we do that prior to primer coating but going over it once more doesn't hurt a thing. Always keep on learning something new.... cheers
Still a lot of sheen on these doors before spraying. Always been the standard to scuff first. Even if it’s just a 3m gold scotchbright pad.
Sometimes called giving it a tooth.
They been sanded with 220 and tsp cleaned...they were ready ...trust me., I never spray unless properly prepped.
Beautiful!
Those high pressure hoses can be a pain. Always find something to tangle on. You could jump out of an airplane with just your spray gun and 200 feet of high pressure hose and be safe. I guarantee you it get hung on something before you hit the ground.......
Lol funny guy...just remember that the actual cabinets inside the house need to sprayed out, hose needs to be able to reach them without moving sprayer more than once....I see some people move sprayer multiple times because they have short hoses and its simply an overkill....milking it basically. We get in and out.
I want to spray lacquer on my cabinet doors outside but what do I do about the actual cabinet that is inside my house? Can I roller/brush that part? I'm too nervous to spray inside of my house.
Amy, I don't recommend rolling or brushing lacquer as it dries fast and not enough time for rolling, unless you are mighty fast. For inside the house, mask around the cabinets with paper and tape double layers. Make sure your windows and doors are open for ventilation, and maybe have a fan turned ON blowing AWAY from spray area, not too close to the actual spray zone. It's really not that hard but if you take these simple steps then you will be just fine. Expect dust so if you have a lot of inside spray to do then make spray booth and take short break as to not build up too many vapors inside the booth. If you have never used lacquer, then I highly recommend hiring a professional and check references, some painters are not lacquer/fine coating finishers. Above all have fun doing it!!
Lacquer is not a hard finish. It is soft. It also yellows quickly. Finishers use it because it is easy to sand. It is not a good finish to use if you want really good cabinets. If you are going to have somebody spray your cabinets , have them use a water white conversion varnish.
Keith, everyone's comments are welcome, we can disagree here and there. Lacquer is a hard finish, not sure why you would say they are soft. Older lacquers did yellow over the years but is wasn't as noticeable, oil base clears and paints yellow over the years as well but not as noticeable for 5+ years. By then many people change colors and call for maintenance. Not sure what lacquers you are referring to be soft, manufacturers and data sheets state they are hard finishes. Lacquer is easy to sand but that is not why people like it, there are many more reasons and easy-to-sand is definitely not a high priority. Again, all comments are welcome and we can agree to disagree. Cheers
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I'm saying they are soft because I worked in the coatings industry for 20+ years both as a finisher myself and I worked for companies who sold coatings.
@@keithwinnett7747 I sprayed coatings just about the same time and still disagree. Conversion varnishes are great too and hard but I still go lacquer any day. I will bring up this with sales reps and check of their products. Just for my info. Thanks
I’m trying to learn... did you spray primer first? What kind of primer? Is the top coat the lacquer? Do you ever sand after the last coat?
I used Sherwin Williams undercoater....guess u can think of it as a primer. Then the lacquer top coat. Sanded between coats as needed. No sanding after last coat.
To set the record straight. What does "better" mean to you? Faster? Lacquers aren't meant to be applied like latex paint. An Air gun (Like a SATA or Tekna ProLite) or HVLP gives the absolute finest finish with finest control. When I first saw this video I thought it was from 20+ years ago lol. I started spraying lacquers 43 years ago and that was the way to create a custom show paint job (30 coats of hand rubbed lacquer). I used PPG and DuPont lacquers & Acrylic Urethanes on cars (restored 23) and on furniture (cabinet and furniture maker in business over 4 decades). Lacquers took away business from oils & shellac (finish of choice for 1000s of years) all in the name of productivity. Lacquer is definitely a "hard" finish, however that's relative. Today lacquer would be considered a low-mid range finish. IF the goal is the ultimate in durability and even aesthetics (certain times) then lacquer won't be on your radar screen. Conversion varnish or automotive acrylic urethane, those are super hard. I started using automotive finishes on my wood projects 40 years ago and is mostly what I use because of how durable it is. We used to use DuPont Imron for frames and suspension pieces, today, powder coating is the ultimate finish. However, I still use shellac, tung oil (pure), lacquer, polyurethane, wiping varnish, wax finish, etc. It simply depends on what the project is. Would I paint kitchen cabinets with lacquer? NO, but I don't do work in that end of the market; we don't use caulking either. Obviously the set up used here is not very clean and the end result was apparently just to clean it up a little. Lots of damage to the doors not repaired, caulking and lacquer painting with airless on ladders on the floor tells me what the budget is. Some asked "Why use lacquer? IF that's the budget, why not use lacquer? I realize it takes a lot more skill, hanging the fronts up and spraying all faces and edges at once yields the very best overall finish most efficiently. It does seem contrary to commonsense, lay a board flat and the finish smooths out much much better, however, it's about achieving perfect balance of amount of finish without sags/runs while being flat. There are always vertical surfaces on cars or furniture/cabinetry and they look just as good as the pieces painted flat. Hang the doors and develop great painting techniques. Gaining full control of your spray equipment does take time. Lots of muscle memory involved with perfect technique (NOT achieved in this particular video). There is never a one size fits all. Lots of misinformation out there. I own and use a variety of equipment for applying paint, including Binks (Models 7 & 18 & 2001) Devilbiss Tekna ProLite, Graco UltraMax (Cordless), Titan ED665 Plus, and Fuji Platinum Q5 T70 and they all have their use. I would NEVER use the Titan to spray a car, furniture or cabinetry. That doesn't mean an acceptable finish can't be completed with it, just that for the level of finish I desire it's much easier to achieve with either air or HVLP. There's only one downside to true HVLP, that's cost. My Fuji system with everything is close to $2,000.00, about 3x the cost of the Titan. I get asked all the time, which is better, to that I ask, "What are you planning on doing? The Titan ED665 Plus can't compete with the Binks,Tekna or Fuji for fine finishing, and they can't compete (Binks, Tekna won't) with the Titan when applying Latex paint on the inside or outside of a house. If you want a super smooth finish straight from the gun with very limited overspray, HVLP is the only way to go. They are expensive at the Stage 4 & Stage 5 levels, but I find over time it's less expensive if you spend more.
Write a book about your experience and tips.....are you retired now?
Yeah I agree with you I've been spraying Cabinetry for over 15 years now I'm only using binks guns and pressure pots system and I use Lacquer Base-Coat and top coat of water-based Lacquer it gives it a smooth finish that no other spray system can deliver.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 what he's saying is you doing it all wrong 🤣 🤣 🤣 why getting mad at him for pointing the facts
@@K1llum1nati imagine that, doing it all wrong and banking on it, I guess not so wrong after all. Wise guy!! In all seriousness, Mr. ALAN points out technique and where to use certain spray systems. I appreciate criticism as it makes me want to correct and always be a better finisher, he is also an absolute pro at his comments. Well versed and not a bully like many people out there in www.
did you add a clearcoat or is the final finish just the tinted laquer , and is it true laquer (laquer thinner clean up) or kem aqua
this is a true lacquer and its tinted lacquer with sheen. no kem aqua but you can also tint that line of lacquer.
Great work bro thanks for the video
Can you tell us what exact primer and paint you used, and possibly the color? Looks great.
He must have worked at the auto factory 🏭 with me 😊 because he’s a hellava painter!😂
I am currently prepping original cabinets from our 1947 home. My question is why are you choosing lacquer instead of latex paint, or was the lacquer just the primer coat? I am planning to prime before painting, but now I wonder if I should be considering lacquer instead of latex primer?
Evan, I am in the Business for two reasons. First, because I truly enjoy what I do. Two, to make money. That being said, sometimes, we have very small jobs and the timing simply works better to lacquer coat instead of painting with oil or water base paints. Budget also plays a role in what products I use and then the type of finish. Some clients have properties as rentals and some have custom made homes, I am sure you get the point by now. Now to your cabinets: If I were you, I would look at the cabinets and see if they have been stained or varnished in the past (my guess is yes) if that is the case this is what I would recommend you to do: sand down a bit as to open up pores on the current surfaces, TSP or degreaser clean all surfaces, primer coat with oil base cover stain primer or Shellac primer. Then you can lightly sand again with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper (worn out is best as it doesn't burn the edges and it knocks down any raised grain or overspray). I would recommend an Alkyd- water base/borne from Home depot Berh, Sherwin williams Pro-Industrial or Emerald, Alkyd Emulsion from Vista paints or Aristo-shield from Dunn Edwards. I am not sure where you are located but you can always call different paint stores and ask for Urethane or Alkyd paints for cabinets. I recommend that type of paint since its a water base/clean up, great results and easy to use. Hard part of all is the prep, once prep is done its really a fun process to see the changes and best part is that you did it your self and you did it the "right" way.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 Thank you so much for taking time to reply. I have thought of Alkyd for this project, so it's good to hear that from a professional. The thing with this house is that nothing was ever done over the last 70+ years except additional slapped on coats of paint with no prep apparently. I'm scraping as many layers off as I can then will thoroughly sand and prime. Lots of work, but they're actually WOOD cabs and we could never afford to replace them with similar quality. Thank you again for the tips; we usually use Sherwin Williams paints.
Did you use a specific type of lacquer? I know it’s SW but is there a name or part number? Looks really good
Hello Paul, it's sher-wood pro.....regular Lacquer but they also carry the precat
Great video ... I use SW as well, just seeing how well you guys mask everything off tells me how professional you all are. The cabinet doors looked great after one coat, was that just camera magic lol? or did you spray them again? your primer & paint build up is actually perfect, not too much not too little. VERY WELL DONE !!!!
Really appreciate 🙏 your comment.
That was simply the primer coat. I went back and did a top coat finish on all of them. I used my Samsung Galaxy S9 phone and it did great...also had a friend record this and he did a great job following my lead.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 It's the primer coat that blows me away, does. I can never get it to look like that. I find if I try to lay that much primer down (on builder grade oak cabinets) it always gas's and I get bubbles. Watching you guy's lay that primer is awesome.
@@backcountrytourn5089 are you using a undercoat lacquer base? spray in shaded area. bubbling happens for many factors but usually go lite on the primer coat and you can do 2 or 3 very lite coats of it, also add a bit of thinner or acetone to speed up the drying time.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I was practicing with lacquer for the first time. Definitely a learning curve, but I always hear how much better it is over a oil base primer. I've always just used a oil base primer and with good success, people love their new cabinets. However; I think i'll practice more lol and maybe even invest in a quality sprayer. I'm extremely curios if lacquer is really "that" much better.
@@backcountrytourn5089 oil base primer is great and can't go wrong with it but its not recommended to spray lacquer on top of it. Oil does take a long time to dry and that is 1 of the reasons why lacquer is the way to go. Lacquer dries super fast and the finishes are smoother than oil and water base products. My crew and I have painted kitchens in 1 day. Fully done in 1 day and yet maintaining the quality. Try it and when you do, you will not use oil again.
Nice 👍 , when shooting a double wet coat let your first coat flash off then hit with your second coat that ensures you've raised your paraffins.
I hired “professionals” to do my cabinets and omg 😳 they ruined them. They didn’t caulk them they used rollers for both painting and priming and when they applied the primer they left the doors still on the cabinets and missed a lot of spots . Then they took the doors down for the paint and did them outside in the lawn with a drape underneath but the final result came back gritty, uneven, and with pieces of grass 😭 the owner had promised us he only trusted a few of his guys with the cabinets and that they had over 25 years experience. Next thing you know two 19-20 year olds show up to do the work and now I’m considering just buying new cabinets. I think I would’ve done a better job myself.
It's a bummer to read your cabinet project went south. I hope you withheld payment. Sounds to me like these "pros" were those what I call "clowns" who simply buy some whites and now they feel pro painters. I wound take all cabinets off, sand down to smooth finish with a 220 sand paper. Spray all areas and spray both, primer and the top coat. Sand between coats. It's a lot of work, people don't see the amount of detail that goes into the painting of any cabinet. If done right, expect to pay above average as it's quality work. Next time please ask for references, vet them out. Good luck
Fortunately they forgot to ask us for our deposit at the time of the contract signing and we haven’t paid.
Thank you so much for the tip 🙏🏼 my husband and I are going to try it out ourselves with one of the smaller cabinet doors if we feel we can’t do it we will contract someone else. The company we had hired had 4.9 stars in reviews out of 200 people which is why we were shocked. And we weren’t going to pay cheap either we were going to pay $4,700 for the job which was why we thought it was going to come out great but unfortunately it was a disaster and they got it on our brand new appliances 😫. But thank you once again for the tip. 😊
Great job. 👍🏻
Hey fellow painter! Awesome job and thank you for taking the time to answer questions.. quick question from me. Have you heard of waterborne pre cat lacquer? If so, have you used it and who carries it?
Water precat yes. I know Mohawk carries the precat and waterborne....they pretty much carry anything and everything you can possibly think of that is related to lacquer and conversion varnishes
What primer and tip size did you use?
i used the Sherwin Williams undercoater. tip size is graco fine finish 410 or 412, cant recall but it was a mid size tip
Great video, thanks for sharing. Just getting ready to do this myself. I'm painting oak so have to do some grain filling. Couple questions: I just bought a Graco X5 sprayer, can I spray the pre catalyst with it? If so which tip shall I ise? 311? Thanks again. Great work
Lacquer is not good in airless sprayers
You can spray it but it will burn seals over extended period of time. I suggest this titan ed655 on video. Use a rack 10 from graco and a fine finish green spray tip.
Thanks for reply. Ive decided to go with Renner 463/851. And I bought both fflp 308&310
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 what’s the difference between the Grace c5 and your Titan? Aren’t they both airless sprayers?
@@paulscheibelein5953 they are airless but this titan is better for lacquer coatings
Best way to touch up very small areas of cabinets that were originally spray painted with lacquer enamel. Paint is coming off in some small areas, I think from water exposer (drips and spray) since they are near sink. I Have a can of touch up paint, but it doesn't seem to cover. Do I have to do multiple coats?
Yes do multiple coats. Spray only and you have to spray the entire face of drawer/door. Lacquer is not very easy to brush or roll and spray is about the only way. Make sure to sand down gently and smooth out where its chipping/coming off.
wow what a nice finish, is this paint exclusively kitchen cabinet paint ? or just common lacquer paint? Thank you
I personally use it Mostly for cabinetry. Some times I do use it on doors and trim to keep up with timelines. Lacquer all the way makes the finishes super smooth and glossy.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 does lacquer also come in a satin finish? thanks again, I am a subscriber will be watching
Man you did such a good job bravo! My kitchen is the same color and we want to paint it to off white or cream color. Do they make those in lacquer..? I see you used Titan ED655 Plus Airless.. If you don’t mind sharing what tip is that looks so clean smooth and not to much not less is it the one that comes with machine? Did you put any thing paint or anything like that in primer and color or just went straight in got it and thats it didn’t mess with adding such as paint thinner. Looks like u only did one coat of each primer and lacquer.
You can have Lacquer tinted to any color. Any store can do this for you if they have the tinters to do it. Not that hard to find stores that sell and tint lacquers. I used Graco FF410. Fine finish tips minimize over spray and reduce the wasted material. Any paint store carry the Graco green fine finish tips. Did more than one coat of primer and top coats. Video shows bits and pieces of actual work.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 thank you yes i was planning to prime it twice then paint or top coat it twice depends how it looks first time.. should i sand it in between the coats if yes 180 or 120?
@@saudinhodzic3672 yes on the sanding. Use 220
Great video, was there a reason you didn’t mention tip size, pressure, or any information about the products?
I did not really go into detail as it was simply a video of simply sharing some of the work we do. I will make a video with more info. As per this particular video I used Sherwin-williams / Gemini undercoater and top coats. Graco fine finish tip 3 4hundred...sprayer was a Titan ED655 Plus at about half range pressure. Pressure Guage is not digital but I run it about half way most of the times. Hope this help a bit but I will be making another video with more info. Cheers
Great job
Impassive. Cold you talk mo but your sprayer and specific paint?
I'll make another video and talk more about lacquer products and basic setup and clean up.
Is that a low pressure machine. ? Was the psi. Thx
Very nice! can you tell me why you prefer the Lacquer vs Kem Aqua Plus from SW? Also do you have any video showing the finished product because I'd love to see how that Lacquer flattened out when it dried.
Will make a video for that and hopefully I can help you out here a bit
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 whats different between emeral enamel vs lacquer vs kem aqua for cabinet refinishing please?
I've seen many airless sprayers but never a top feed. Is this a modification?
Robert, this one is top feed as it needs very little pressure, its design for and makes enough pressure for lacquer and conversion varnishes. It works great, it last really long (had one for 15yrs) and not an issue with it, even if you don't use for a month or so, it starts every time...
The ED655+ is a diaphragm pump not a piston pump. The diaphragm flutters continually when running. I have had one for 17 years without a rebuild. I leave lacquer in the hopper all the time. I recently built a similar unit from a Craigslist Wagner 404+. I bought the top valve and hopper to replace the suction tube. $300 into the pump, new parts, hose and gun! Works identically to the $800 ED 655.
What sprayer and compressor are you using? It works awesome.
Using the Titan ED655 plus. Buy it its great
Caulking the inside edges of the panels to the rails and stiles will break the seal in time with the frame’s woods expansion and contraction will it not?
Not necessarily, let caulking fully dry before coating. Caulking expands & and contracts with the wood. If you paint before caulking dries then it will crack for moisture has to find a way out...
Cabinet doors are probably small enough that any wood movement would be inconsequential to the paint finish. For larger pieces I think you have a valid concern.
You rotate your wrist too much when you‘re spraying. The spray gun is closest to the material at the center when your arm is straight and as you swing out in either direction (from center) the spray point is further away causing overspray.
.
What is the name of the primer and lacquer and what color did you use?
Can't recall the color name but its an gray...primer is the Sherwin-williams lacquer undercoater.
I work for Sherwin and if you're going to redo your cabinets you should not do it the way professionals do it. People who spray lacquer have training and a lot of safety equipment. Use like a kills oil base and a urethane top coat.
Hi!!!!! Love this!!! Awesome work. What are all the materials and equipment used??? I want to do this to a butchers block (I fished from Home Depot) for my desk top. What do I need to buy? I want that beautiful no streak top? High gloss. Resistant to starches nicks water nicks and chips. Please answer soon I need to go buy stuff. So excited and inspired!!!!
This is a spray only type of finish.
You need a gallon of lacquer vinyl sealer or undercoater (primer). Then the lacquer top coat and you can get a MATTE, SATIN, SEMIGLOSS OR GLOSS. you also need 1gallon lacquer thinner, fine sand paper to sand in between coats. Highly recommend a mask with filters not the cheap N95 masks but heavy duty 2 filter type and a pair of gloves.
If you haven't done this or been around lacquer spraying, be very careful as lacquer if flammable. Make sure you spray in a well ventilated area as to avoid fumes reaching high concentrations. Have fun but safety 1st.
Looks great
Amazing paint work... but i think you are using the wrong filters on your respirator. You should be using the charcoal (organic vapor) filters. The pink ones you have on there are for particles like dust and such. Basically does nothing for paint fumes and you may as well just take the respirator off. Just my 2 cents. But amazing job on the paintwork.
Thanks for pointers....I have upgraded respirators and what a difference. I only had pink on that site and had no time to get other one at home since it was was a super easy and small job but truly appreciate your tip.....thanks
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 ah ok that makes sense. And yes its a huge difference! I learned the hard way a couple years ago, except my lesson was in reverse.... i was using the organic vapors filters while doing some sand blasting with a fine abrasive. Well lets just say that i had a lot of difficulty breathing for 3 or 4 days after that. Amazing how filters work huh? Lol. Blows my mind how they can filter vapors, but not a particle thats far bigger than a vapor 🤷🏼♂️. Anyways, glad to hear you got that all sorted out. Im currently looking to switch over to the sherwin williams lacquer, but im having a hard time figuring out what to order.
Lacquer is the Best But the problem is for touch ups
whats the lacquer product? What do you say to Sherwin Williams to get them to find it? Everytime I contact Sherwin Williams they say they tell me spray lacquer is impossible and tell me they don't know anything about it....
I’ve been tempted to use lacquer however I’m scared the harsh smell will affect the home owners. Does the smell stay around for a long time?
Smell lasts about a week, but it's not even close to the smell as when spraying. Smell is almost the same as oil base paint.
Love that sprayer.
Never fails...its a durable and easy to use sprayer
Mind sharing the sprayer and the machine ? Where can i get one i have big project in my kitchen to. Thanks!
@@saudinhodzic3672 sprayer is titan ed 655 plus. Can get those pretty much any paint store.
Hi David !
Great job, nice to see quality painting. I have been painting cabinets for 10 years now. I pretty much do the same thing you do(the procedure)
I would like to switch to SW Products. I currently use BIN Schllack primer and then use lacquer from ILVA (italy), sold at benjamine moore.
I would love to use lacquer from SW but afraid to change. HAVE A JOB 8/31/20. CAn you help me please.
When I ask SW they tell me dry time is long 4 hr. recoat. I usually spray 4 coats 1-day. I cannot wait 2 days.
here is my question. you use Sherwin undercoat-ok but you say use sherwin lacquer. Can you do all 4 coats 1 day. and what exactly is the name of the product
sherwood lacuer _______ what? my reps are a little confused.
nervously wanting to switch, with a job next week.
Mark,
Ask for the SHER-WOOD 275 VOC can label P61 WV 6. That is the undercoater/primer. For hard to stick surfaces like vinyl/veneer/laminate then use VINYL SEALER.
The vinyl sealer comes in clear but ask the store to tint close to what your finish coat will be. You can spray 4 coats in 1 day even more. Sometimes being in the field is way different than in a lab; I have done it and never a complaint or issues with any projects. Shellac is also a way to go as it is a bullet proof primer, can't go wrong with that as a primer. Hope this helps. Also test the product from dunn edwards they have Exalta and Gemini. Regular and precat (tougher than regular lacquer). I try different products as a way to not be held hostage from manufacturers...lol.
Mark amundsen I want job
Greetings Dave...what is the name of the primier and the lacquer from sherwin Williams
Can you use lacquer and latex based paints in this Titan? I’m debating on which Titan to get. Just wondering what the changeover process is when switching between solvent based paints and latex
this is mostly for lacquers...I never use latex or acrylic paint. If you do, I am sure you will have clogging issues sooner rather than later.
Loving the ease of use with spray machine, what's it called? Brand? Wondering if I can find a retailer to hire me one?
Good video, what kind of primer did you use oil? And the type of sprayer.
Thank you
This is a lacquer product, not oil or water base. Sprayer type is ED655 plus made by Titan
Is that water-based Lacquer? And what kind of primer did you use. Thanks
It's a Lacquer base from Sherwin-williams and the primer or "undercoater"s a Lacquer base as well...this is not water clean up...you have to use Lacquer thinner for clean up or to dilute it.
Hey! Amazing job. Questions for you -
1) I want to spray paint brand-new (white) kitchen cabinets provided by the builder to grey. Do I still need to put primer?
2) Since it's brand new - do I still need to sand them down?
Thanks!
1. Primer only if you are not sure what typo of paint is on currently. If it's water base then use water base , if it's Lacquer or conversation varnish then simply use same/similar base product for new color.
2. Yes, lite sanding with a used 200 grit san paper is recommended. Makes sure the paint has something to bond to and you do that by sanding as it opens up the surface.
Best luck to u
What brand is the sprayer and paint color please. Great job by the way , thank you for sharing
Its a titan ed 655 plus sprayer. I used lacquer products for this product. I can't recall the name of color but its a gray family.
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 Thank you for your reply
David...it is ok to apply that primer over oak cabinets (stain and polyurethane finish)
Yes its okay, get the undercoater from Sherwin Williams or Dunn Edward's. You must degrease and lightly sand down surfaces prior to priming them.
Wow hey what product are using? I’ve tried the pigmented lacquer from Sherwin Williams not a big fan? Also are you spraying from an airless machine just wondering about cleaning it if you are thanks great videos
Can you tell me what you are spraying as a primer coat.. I am building some built in cabinets and want to use the High Build Pre-Cat Lacqure made by Sherwin Williams but I need to know what primer to use with it.... thanks so much for you help and sharing this video
You can use their vinyl sealer or sanding sealer. If you are using precat top coat then you must use a precat undercoater/ sealer.
Great job! Can I spray pig lacquer through an airless because I was told it might be too thin and that I needed a hvlp.
I would NOT recommend using anything other than hydraulic sprayer for big jobs and a cup sprayer for smaller and touch up jobs. Airless sprayers tend to clog up and the seals do get burnt by lacquer very quickly.
did you have to thin the primer?
Not really, just a little bit a few Oz to the mix..
I thought you could not get lacquer or solvent based finishes in CA anymore? Are you using a waterborne or a low VOC version? What primer do you use directly on the clear coated cabinets? Is it oil based primers or vinyl sealer? Does it adhere well? Thanks! Nice work!
CA has banned the use of certain products but you can still get conversion varnishes, lacquers since they have less voc's/'eco-friendly" I am using 275 voc laquers and you can get pre-cat or regular. I use vinyl sealer as it is best for hard to stick surfaces and it adheres really well, can't go wrong, just keep in mind that the surfaces have to be sanded and cleaned with a grease remover, prep is key. Good luck in your projects
On the first topcoat you sprayed, it seemed like a lot of paint. Do you get runs and drips when you do it like that? I don’t have much experience but it seems like it would be better to spray half as much, and just do an extra coat or two? Especially because of how quickly it dries and sprays
Looks good
Excellent work!! What type of sprayer do you recommend for cabinet work?
Any sprayer is good to use like the Graco 390s....or for lacquer you can use the ed 655 plus or any HVLP...it all depends what product you use.
Good finish, fine texture, smooth surface , really is great but smell as lot and people can't resist the smell bacause is extremely strong.
Actually Im looking for a latex primer good for cabinets, no oil, shellac or lacquer, I mean, it would be a kind of primer that can block stain. If somebody know it, please let me know.
Try Quickdry primer from Sherwin-williams....
I was looking to get an honest opinion on a sprayer. How reliable is it?. Looks like Titan ED655 ? I use Titan Capspray 115, but I think airless such as ED655 produce less overspray? Also, really clean caulk lines on the doors. Would be interested to see the video on the best way to make clean lines with caulk. Thanks
Akd...this is the ED655 and it's very reliable. Have had it for 3-4yrs now and gone through hundreds of gallons of lacquer never any issues. The capsprayer is awesome for touchups but when doing whole kitchens or bigger surface areas like doors and bigger panels the 655 is the most efficient way. As far as caulking line on cabinets or trim I will make a video here shortly..thanks man and have fun spraying...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 I also use Sherwood line. And primer surfacer or vinyl sealer can be tinted to match your top coat. Helps with coverage. Wasn't sure if you knew that.
Just a question
How works the painting of the cabinets
Primer -paint and lacquer
first step is to clean, degloss/sand or both. Primer with water, oil or shellac base. Once primer coated you can do paint. If you want to use lacquer base finishes then i recommend using lacquer base sealer or undercoater (primer- to keep things simple). You can top coat lacquer over Shellac primer but must dry and cure at least 24hrs.