Easier way to do 20%: move the decimal one place to the left and multiply by 2. So 50A, move the decimal from after 0 to before, 5.0 x 2= 10A + 50 = 60A.
Well I got a Nemesis for next to nothing and after buying batteries and ammo, I found it lacking the punch it needs. I’m a 65 year old kid and will be buying your mod kit soon. They never had any super cool shooters like this when I was a kid. Some of us never grow up!
@@hellothere1328 no... you're thinking of voltage. the total current consumption of a circuit is the sum of the current consumed by each individual component. For The Meme Dream Team's setup, the battery would need a 80A output. Voltage works how you are describing for power sources: if you put two 40v 1A power sources in paralell, then you will have a 40v power source capable of outputting 2A. If you put them in series, then you have a 80v 1A power supply.
When calculating the amperage of the motors, do you add them together? For example, for a OOD Kraken, would it be 26 amps, the number listed under 1 motor, or 52 amps, the combined amperage of the 2 motors.
The dominator's going to be a tough blaster to find a good pack for. To start, I'm going to make an assumption that the worker pusher needs 20A; I haven't seen any official figures on it, but it's close to their other motors. Good motors like Krakens or Fang Revamps are going to need 210A or 225A. ((20A + 6 * 26A or 28A) * 1.2 safety margin). As an aside, there are people in the drone community who don't trust C ratings above 100C, you may want to look at higher capacity packs as opposed to incredibly current dense ones. If you do go for a larger pack, you'll probably have trouble fitting it in the battery tray, so you may need to strap it to a stock instead. For a more reasonable current draw, you can go with Valkyries or Meishel 2.0s, but they'll need 125A or 155A ((20A + 6 * 14A or 18A) * 1.2 safety margin), but the spin up times will be slower, especially with heavier flywheels to keep the inertia up for bursts of darts. You could also scrounge up some old Rhinos for a much more reasonable 80A ((20A + 6 * 8A) * 1.2 safety margin), but it will take a really long time to properly spin up. Then you also have to take the extra complexity your control system into account. I don't know of anyone finding the breaking point of a 21A microswitch, but I think a 135-205A set of flywheel motors would probably be pushing it. I'd recommend looking into a relay or MOSFET for each pair of flywheels, just to spread out the load a little bit. Also, conducing that much current is going to generate a fair bit of heat; potentially enough to cause solder joints on lower gauge wire to melt; you probably want to wire up the blaster with 10 or 12 gauge wire. Personally, unless you really need to break 200 fps, Daybreak, Eclipse, or a brushless setup will get you in the 170-200 fps range in a much more consistent, compact, cheaper, and easier to manage package.
@@ejaapl couldnt agree more. The idea is great but until someone breaks 200 reliably the only benefit is the mag. We will see reliability of this aswell. If it does well, the Cali and FDL will get updates for it. Possibly the worker stryfe aswell
Hey Luke does your book explain how charging and discharging works? That part i still don’t understand I I’m new to flywheels and the battery i had used for RagnaRockOctoberfest died and wasn’t able to use it after and kind of scared to start using the new one i just ordered. I want it to last me a few games not just one
You need a volt alarm if the voltage in the battery gets too low it won't take a charge again so the alarm luke sells for $3 with a digital volt meter lets you monitor it and makes a really loud beeping noise when the battery gets down to the voltage you set letting you know to change it out and something i learned from airsoft always brings extra batterys to wars, personally i like 2 spares for all day wars.
2S your over volting just a little bit but not enough to instantly burn out your motors but if you want it to last id suggest upgrading the motors to eather valkyries for 3s or meishel 2.0 for 2s they are a cheap upgrade being $8 for a set of valkyries and $6 for a set of meishels.
Most if not all Worker mod kits for the Stryfe are designed for 3s. A 3s battery that fits the battery tray and has the appropriate connector should work, and some larger batteries can still fit with an extended battery door. If you have any questions about which batteries fit the Stryfe, you can find more information on our shop.
Not really, and to be able to use the lipo u would have to solder in a xt60 connecter which you have to open up the sheep to do, and at that point i would just change the internals too.
If you're upgrading a blaster to take a LiPo, it is highly recommended that you replace the wiring and motors as the stock ones are more likely to burn out.
We have a couple of options on the shop that you can find linked with our mod kits or when you search for "perses." Note: you will have to do some modifications for the Perses to accept a battery with an XT-60 connector. We have a mod guide on the channel that can walk you through that process.
We’d be happy to answer any of your product questions! Shoot us an e-mail to orders@outofdarts.com regarding any product questions. We are on e-mail much more consistently than social media and will respond to you much more promptly there!
Can someone help me bc I use 180 hellcats, and It says that the rated voltage is 12 volt. But I only find batterys with 11,1 volt or less. Or maybe im just dumb and I have to look on something else than vold idk 🤷
It's just a difference in what the voltage rating means for the motors and batteries. Hellcat motors (12v maximum) are rated for 3s LiPo systems (12v maximum, 11.1-11.4v continuous).
Good point. If rewiring a lipo for a different connector, snip 1 wire at a time. Otherwise, like u said... "4th of July" and "screaming like a girl". I've made that mistake twice now.
Bypass the thermistor or rewire the whole thing. And it should work. But in that case, if you are doing, also do a motor upgrade. It'll make it better. But if don't wanna do all that stuff, then do a 2s lipo mod. If the main purpose is not to increase performance and to just get rid of alkalines then 2s should be enough. You are still overcoating it a bit. But it's kinda safer and your blaster will probably work fine
2/10 would not LiPo again. Obviously a joke, if the meme format didn't make it clear. This is actually a very concise and informative video for anyone looking to get into LiPos.
Easier way to do 20%: move the decimal one place to the left and multiply by 2.
So 50A, move the decimal from after 0 to before, 5.0 x 2= 10A + 50 = 60A.
I've snapped a LiPO at home once. Great fun. Lights up like the forth of July. Ran screaming like a girl.
Also super super toxic smoke
But can it take a k26?
Wow
Good question
There are no dumb questions people. Most definitely!! 😎
I tried this, my house burned down and the insurance companies are refusing to help me.
Lol
Love how you so cleanly describe things. Well done!
Well I got a Nemesis for next to nothing and after buying batteries and ammo, I found it lacking the punch it needs. I’m a 65 year old kid and will be buying your mod kit soon. They never had any super cool shooters like this when I was a kid.
Some of us never grow up!
lipo and math some of my favorite words
This may sound dumb, but if I have a stryfe with two motors drawing 40A each, would I need to have a battery 80A output or 40A output?
The Meme Dream Team if you use a series circuit, then 40A, but if you have a parallel circuit, 80A
@@hellothere1328 no... you're thinking of voltage. the total current consumption of a circuit is the sum of the current consumed by each individual component. For The Meme Dream Team's setup, the battery would need a 80A output.
Voltage works how you are describing for power sources: if you put two 40v 1A power sources in paralell, then you will have a 40v power source capable of outputting 2A. If you put them in series, then you have a 80v 1A power supply.
When calculating the amperage of the motors, do you add them together? For example, for a OOD Kraken, would it be 26 amps, the number listed under 1 motor, or 52 amps, the combined amperage of the 2 motors.
Thanks again Luke! Well done with no b.s.
I will now have to do the math on 7 motors for the dominator.
Unless someone has already
The dominator's going to be a tough blaster to find a good pack for. To start, I'm going to make an assumption that the worker pusher needs 20A; I haven't seen any official figures on it, but it's close to their other motors.
Good motors like Krakens or Fang Revamps are going to need 210A or 225A. ((20A + 6 * 26A or 28A) * 1.2 safety margin). As an aside, there are people in the drone community who don't trust C ratings above 100C, you may want to look at higher capacity packs as opposed to incredibly current dense ones. If you do go for a larger pack, you'll probably have trouble fitting it in the battery tray, so you may need to strap it to a stock instead.
For a more reasonable current draw, you can go with Valkyries or Meishel 2.0s, but they'll need 125A or 155A ((20A + 6 * 14A or 18A) * 1.2 safety margin), but the spin up times will be slower, especially with heavier flywheels to keep the inertia up for bursts of darts.
You could also scrounge up some old Rhinos for a much more reasonable 80A ((20A + 6 * 8A) * 1.2 safety margin), but it will take a really long time to properly spin up.
Then you also have to take the extra complexity your control system into account. I don't know of anyone finding the breaking point of a 21A microswitch, but I think a 135-205A set of flywheel motors would probably be pushing it. I'd recommend looking into a relay or MOSFET for each pair of flywheels, just to spread out the load a little bit.
Also, conducing that much current is going to generate a fair bit of heat; potentially enough to cause solder joints on lower gauge wire to melt; you probably want to wire up the blaster with 10 or 12 gauge wire.
Personally, unless you really need to break 200 fps, Daybreak, Eclipse, or a brushless setup will get you in the 170-200 fps range in a much more consistent, compact, cheaper, and easier to manage package.
@@ejaapl couldnt agree more.
The idea is great but until someone breaks 200 reliably the only benefit is the mag.
We will see reliability of this aswell.
If it does well, the Cali and FDL will get updates for it.
Possibly the worker stryfe aswell
3489
2677
Thanks mate! This kinda got me some good info for airsoft as well
Hey Luke does your book explain how charging and discharging works? That part i still don’t understand I I’m new to flywheels and the battery i had used for RagnaRockOctoberfest died and wasn’t able to use it after and kind of scared to start using the new one i just ordered. I want it to last me a few games not just one
You need a volt alarm if the voltage in the battery gets too low it won't take a charge again so the alarm luke sells for $3 with a digital volt meter lets you monitor it and makes a really loud beeping noise when the battery gets down to the voltage you set letting you know to change it out and something i learned from airsoft always brings extra batterys to wars, personally i like 2 spares for all day wars.
For a stock Rapidstrike and a stock Stockade which lipo would you recommend?
2S your over volting just a little bit but not enough to instantly burn out your motors but if you want it to last id suggest upgrading the motors to eather valkyries for 3s or
meishel 2.0 for 2s they are a cheap upgrade being $8 for a set of valkyries and $6 for a set of meishels.
What Lipo should I use for the Nerf stryfe worker mod kit. Please help.
Most if not all Worker mod kits for the Stryfe are designed for 3s. A 3s battery that fits the battery tray and has the appropriate connector should work, and some larger batteries can still fit with an extended battery door.
If you have any questions about which batteries fit the Stryfe, you can find more information on our shop.
Sorry i have to ask, so what lipo battery should i use on my nerf speed ultra? 1.2 is enough?
Can i put 2s on a unmodified rapidstrike?
because I ever knew someone that put lipo to unmodified rapidstrike
but I didn't ask what lipo or the detail
he said just connect the plus and minus on the lipo to plus and minus to the rapidstrike battery tray
Is there any lipo I can buy were i would not have to replace any motors or risk overvolting, but are more powerful then c batteries
Not really, and to be able to use the lipo u would have to solder in a xt60 connecter which you have to open up the sheep to do, and at that point i would just change the internals too.
Does a turnigy 3s 1500mah 1.5a
lipo fit on a jupiter
Can I use lipo batteries with stock nerf motors or that would ruin my blaster?
If you're upgrading a blaster to take a LiPo, it is highly recommended that you replace the wiring and motors as the stock ones are more likely to burn out.
@@outofdarts thanks for the answer 😁😁
Hi all, what LiPo should I use in a non modified Nerf Perses blaster? What experience do you have use them?
We have a couple of options on the shop that you can find linked with our mod kits or when you search for "perses." Note: you will have to do some modifications for the Perses to accept a battery with an XT-60 connector. We have a mod guide on the channel that can walk you through that process.
I want to upgrade a hurricane does the lipo com with a lead connector for the blaster?
What about using at power tool battery, 12V or 18V?
@Charlie Harris why? Explain yourself!
no. that would be a 4s to 5s lipo and that is way to high of a voltage for the motors that are in nerf blasters (Even upgraded ones).
@@jorenverweirder9259 that would be 3S and it does work very well !
What's a good cheap LIpo for the Dart Zone Pro MK3? And for a rewired prometheus?
do one on motors
Can I use this in my phoenix RTD3 Worker 3s High Discharge 2200mAh LiPo
Can I install a 3 cell on my hyper mach 100 ?
Yes, but we cannot guarantee the life of the motors on 3s. We strongly recommend 2s when rewiring the Mach 100.
Oh ok thank you so much
whats the most powerful( referring to FPS ) can you fit in a Hera pistol mod.
What battery should I use for a rapid strike
How do I find out what amperage that i can run on 3s kraken motors
We’d be happy to answer any of your product questions! Shoot us an e-mail to orders@outofdarts.com regarding any product questions. We are on e-mail much more consistently than social media and will respond to you much more promptly there!
Can someone help me bc I use 180 hellcats, and It says that the rated voltage is 12 volt. But I only find batterys with 11,1 volt or less. Or maybe im just dumb and I have to look on something else than vold idk 🤷
It's just a difference in what the voltage rating means for the motors and batteries. Hellcat motors (12v maximum) are rated for 3s LiPo systems (12v maximum, 11.1-11.4v continuous).
@@outofdarts Ok thanks 👊 I also ordered parts from your company thanks :)
Dude thanks so much. Great video
Good point. If rewiring a lipo for a different connector, snip 1 wire at a time. Otherwise, like u said... "4th of July" and "screaming like a girl". I've made that mistake twice now.
Alright All I need to buy is a loop to mod my berf rapid strike??????
If you're running a Semi Auto build, you can go with the burst discharge rating.
R u sure
Is it fine to use a stock zeus with a 3s?
3s lipo that fits in swordfish battery trey?
What brand of 3S should I get?
What 2s will go in a rayven
how do i find watts for motor torque
I dropped engineering to become an art student to avoid math like this
I'm 7th grade. It's not even that bad, all he did was multiply integers and non-integers.
FastApple I’m in 9th grade and I have no idea what you’re talking about.
@@triliner254 you'll laugh at your past one day
@@pronoob9811 I can't tell for now, but when it comes I'll take your words for fact.
Can u help me with this
Can u add the nickel medal hydryd pack with xt60 connector on your store
Is 11.1v safe for a fresh new rapidstrike?
Bypass the thermistor or rewire the whole thing. And it should work. But in that case, if you are doing, also do a motor upgrade. It'll make it better. But if don't wanna do all that stuff, then do a 2s lipo mod. If the main purpose is not to increase performance and to just get rid of alkalines then 2s should be enough. You are still overcoating it a bit. But it's kinda safer and your blaster will probably work fine
I dare you to put an 8s battery in a stock stryfe
That would just fry the motors...
IornJazz but how long would it take?
Charging videos please...
Thx for this
What battery would you put in a nerf hyper mach 100
For hirrucane
A kind request to you Luke Goodman. Please hereafter don't use markers or sketchpens or whatever you call them. Use a pen
Great
Lipo battery Math. 1 Lipo battery + 2 Lipo batteries = what? (Write down bellow)
Fourth
Third
2/10 would not LiPo again.
Obviously a joke, if the meme format didn't make it clear. This is actually a very concise and informative video for anyone looking to get into LiPos.
Pp succ
Eww..... math...... :D Lol
What lipo should I use for a stock rival charger??