We are venturing into body work... and the panel alignment is the main hesitation for us... Sylvester's Customs is out go-to. Thank you for your time... always easy to follow and concise. Are project is 79 Z28, Doors were designed for weighting bod*es down ( 🤣 ). they're just friggin heavy. We later learned the 70s - 80s body design A-pillar was know for "stress" fractures that caused serious body alignments and T-top leakage
Bro your a badass ive been battling with my 58 apachee front end panel allign ment think the front horns on the frame are bent😤, but this is too secret stuff your giving us for free thanks brother😎
I use political sign wire to weld on door edges etc. Straighten then give you a real long wire . Cut to full length needed instead of slicing rods end to end .
Shouldn’t there be some sort of x bracing from the lock mechanism to the hinges? The hood edge Looks like it’s pinched by the edge of the passenger side hood hing Could be the reason too. Very good video
All good info. But do you have any suggestions for a 70 Camaro hood to header gap ? Seen your quick video on the one you had to pie cut and weld. Um I'm new to some of this so I'm just trying to learn as much as I can before I cut into a 500 dollar aftermarket hood.
Travis, More well done content. Your explanations are clear , concise & well delivered. Thanks for sharing your expertise & knowledge with us. Is it possible to include a link to the GAP Device for purchase? Rick
I've watched several videos on numerous subjects about auto restoration. The biggest key to them all is EVERYONE DOES IT DIFFERENT! Use what works for you and what you are comfortable doing. Yesterday I watched this groups video on body filler, and one from the former painter at Kindig Bryce Green....this guy says use a pencil to outline the low spots, Bryce said use sand paper to mark it....who's right? In my opinion, these guys may do fantastic work, but at the end of the day, no one except a painter will care that you took wayyyy too much time to sand filler to make it laser straight.
I have two questions for now. #1 Are door skins folded and seamed sealed from the factory or spot welded? #2 I have watched as much good info as I can find (Yours is One), but drilling two holes into hinge or similar for later alignment appears to be normal. Can’t those tiny holes have some quality seam sealer wiped into them and made flush to hide? I never hear anyone go past drilling holes! DK. Learning, retired. ASE Master
Newer cars are seam sealed older classics are spot welded. If you are using the holes to align the panel on the hinge after paint why would you use seam sealer?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I have no plans to re-skin a door, tail gate or quarter panel. Drill out a spot weld is hard as the heated metal become work hardened. My task is on two different vehicles. My son’s 86 Monte has the lower 6” (150 mm) to be replaced to get high into good metal. These edges are impossible to seal except the front lower quarter that wraps into the door jamb. The rest will have to get cavity wax inside. Any place water can get in from the outside has to have seam sealer on it. If welded, either a butt joint or lap, fiber fill body filler seals of any pin holes, then adds more strength than plastic filler. That will crack and pop loose. If the rear seat was out and I had room to get my hand inside this part of the quarter, I would finger-smear seam sealer then cavity wax. It will last 20+ years rather than 2yrs. I error on the side of longevity and best practices as to keep all drain holes out. I have 13 quarts of professional wax and pressure pot w/hose(s) to spray where I can’t reach. A change in temp causes water inside a panel without rain or wash. I want eyes on it to cut out any rust.
Looks like you are getting the gaps more uniform than the Chevy factory did in 1955. In those days, owners were more abusive of their cars and cared less, trading them in every 3 years. They didn't even open the hoods as that was a job for gas station attendants who checked the oil and added more, spilling some down the side of the engine.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
We are venturing into body work... and the panel alignment is the main hesitation for us... Sylvester's Customs is out go-to. Thank you for your time... always easy to follow and concise. Are project is 79 Z28, Doors were designed for weighting bod*es down ( 🤣 ). they're just friggin heavy. We later learned the 70s - 80s body design A-pillar was know for "stress" fractures that caused serious body alignments and T-top leakage
🤣🤣🤣👊🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Incredible! Thanks for doing such a great job with your videos and sharing your knowledge! I appreciate you bro!!
Thank you very much
Your videos are top notch and are a pleasure to watch and I learn so much. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Great information, you guys do superior work!
Thank you very much
These videos are gold Travis. Thank you!
Thank you Greg
Great info. Nice job.
Thank you
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾🎯's.. Great Info I missed some of it due to staring at the car 🤦🏾♂️, but I'll definitely be rewatching & tuning in..
👊🏻👊🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very informative..I enjoyed the video..keep up the good work
Thank you ! More tutorials coming soon.
Man u are a good teacher 👏.
Thank you 🙌🏻
Great instruction and very well explained. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Bro your a badass ive been battling with my 58 apachee front end panel allign ment think the front horns on the frame are bent😤, but this is too secret stuff your giving us for free thanks brother😎
Glad I could help
Great info
Thank you!
fantastic work thankyou
Welcome 👊🏻
Thanks for the discussion - do you try to get good alignment before beginning paint stripping?
Thank you. No there’s no point I do it after everything is stripped clean.
I use political sign wire to weld on door edges etc. Straighten then give you a real long wire . Cut to full length needed instead of slicing rods end to end .
Thank you.
You are welcome, thanks for watching.
Shouldn’t there be some sort of x bracing from the lock mechanism to the hinges? The hood edge Looks like it’s pinched by the edge of the passenger side hood hing Could be the reason too. Very good video
All good info. But do you have any suggestions for a 70 Camaro hood to header gap ? Seen your quick video on the one you had to pie cut and weld. Um I'm new to some of this so I'm just trying to learn as much as I can before I cut into a 500 dollar aftermarket hood.
What’s the issue
Good catch on that hood
Thank you! 🙌🏻
Travis,
More well done content. Your explanations are clear , concise & well delivered. Thanks for sharing your expertise & knowledge with us. Is it possible to include a link to the GAP Device for purchase?
Rick
Thank you, I have added the link in video description. Hope that helps you out.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for the link.
grrat info thank yoi
You bet
I've watched several videos on numerous subjects about auto restoration. The biggest key to them all is EVERYONE DOES IT DIFFERENT! Use what works for you and what you are comfortable doing.
Yesterday I watched this groups video on body filler, and one from the former painter at Kindig Bryce Green....this guy says use a pencil to outline the low spots, Bryce said use sand paper to mark it....who's right?
In my opinion, these guys may do fantastic work, but at the end of the day, no one except a painter will care that you took wayyyy too much time to sand filler to make it laser straight.
Well that’s your opinion I suppose. When I get paid very well to make them laser straight because that’s what all my customers want. Not the painter.
Have you tried true blocks new product true gaps?
We have not, going to check that out. Thank you.
A lot easier said than done. The thing is getting everything fit before paint. There isn't any adjustment after that.
Practice makes perfect
I have two questions for now. #1 Are door skins folded and seamed sealed from the factory or spot welded?
#2 I have watched as much good info as I can find (Yours is One), but drilling two holes into hinge or similar for later alignment appears to be normal. Can’t those tiny holes have some quality seam sealer wiped into them and made flush to hide? I never hear anyone go past drilling holes!
DK. Learning, retired. ASE Master
Newer cars are seam sealed older classics are spot welded. If you are using the holes to align the panel on the hinge after paint why would you use seam sealer?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I have no plans to re-skin a door, tail gate or quarter panel. Drill out a spot weld is hard as the heated metal become work hardened. My task is on two different vehicles. My son’s 86 Monte has the lower 6” (150 mm) to be replaced to get high into good metal. These edges are impossible to seal except the front lower quarter that wraps into the door jamb. The rest will have to get cavity wax inside. Any place water can get in from the outside has to have seam sealer on it. If welded, either a butt joint or lap, fiber fill body filler seals of any pin holes, then adds more strength than plastic filler. That will crack and pop loose. If the rear seat was out and I had room to get my hand inside this part of the quarter, I would finger-smear seam sealer then cavity wax. It will last 20+ years rather than 2yrs.
I error on the side of longevity and best practices as to keep all drain holes out. I have 13 quarts of professional wax and pressure pot w/hose(s) to spray where I can’t reach. A change in temp causes water inside a panel without rain or wash. I want eyes on it to cut out any rust.
What if you have this issue with a fiberglass hood? What would be the best way to fix that?
Just cut it apart and glass it back together.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was afraid that's what you were going to say. Thanks
🙌🏻🙌🏻🔥👍🏽
How do you fix door gaps that are too tight? TIA
Funny you ask we are actually filming that tonight.
Place a 2x4 on the cowl and lower hood on it. Problem solved and it doesn’t scrape/chip primer.
Wasn’t quite that easy it needed way more force to do what we needed.
I would love to see you porta power the cowl up to meet the fender and hood. Sometimes a video explainess thing with no talking.
No it was the hood that we used it on to meet the cowl.
I would like to know if that hood repair works.lol
It absolutely did
Looks like you are getting the gaps more uniform than the Chevy factory did in 1955. In those days, owners were more abusive of their cars and cared less, trading them in every 3 years. They didn't even open the hoods as that was a job for gas station attendants who checked the oil and added more, spilling some down the side of the engine.
That’s the goal trying to refine these old cars and make them as good as we can it’s been fun. Thanks for watching
You have to remember when they were built... they were for the working man / lady to drive so they weren't perfect
Well aware of that. 👍🏻