Marking Tuner Positions, Headstock Veneer and Logo Inlay - A week in the Unquendor Guitars Workshop
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- Take a look in the workshop while I finish the Headstocks on the necks we've been working on and share with you some tips and tricks.
This week I started making and adding the veneers to the headstocks.
With the veneer glued to the headstock I show you how I measure and mark out the layout and positioning for the tuners so you can apply this technique to your builds.
For the finishing touch I inlay a hand cut aluminum Unquendor Logo into the headstock.
I'm working on two Guitar Necks at the same time which might not always show as I forgot to mention this sometimes during this video.
You can support me directly by getting yourself a nice T-shirt or Coffee mug at my TeeSpring store:
teespring.com/...
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:19 Making Headstock Veneers
2:46 Glueing the Veneers
3:58 Sanding off the excess veneer
5:29 Truss Rod Access
6:27 Marking the Tuner positions
15:53 Drilling Tuner Holes
17:57 On Preventing Tear Out
19:15 Headstock Logo Inlay
21:58 Outro
Interested in more guitar building related videos?
Check out my channel for more tips and tricks, tool reviews and guitar builds for the (beginner) luthier in a small workshop.
Unquendor Guitars :
Website: www.Unquendor-...
Merchandise : teespring.com/...
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Facebook: / unquendor
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Measure twice ,cut once ". Great work!
Hi Daniel, the coffee spoon machine is perfect.
Hi Adrien,
Thank you!
That was really informative, especially about the tuner positions, I've been scratching my head over that... thanks for sharing
Hi Reality Studios Custom Shop,
Thank you very much!
It's nice to hear you're getting some useful information from my videos.
There is a tool for everything, even to mix your coffee! :) another great vid tyvm
Hi J-Dro Guitars,
Thank you very much.
And yes there is a tool for everything.
Love Daniels video.. keep up the great work!!
Excellence never fades !!
Hi Bert,
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.
Huge fan of your work.
Hey Sacred Axes,
Thank you very much I really appreciate it!
Awesome video - informative as always. Thank you.
Hi Paul,
Thank you for another nice comment.
Pretty cool Dani!!
Cool Cup!!
Hey Julian,
Thank you very much.
The cup is available in my Teespring store if you are interested.
Link to the store is in the video description.
@@UnquendorGuitars you send to Argentina?
@@juliansuarez3849
I believe the cups and shirts can be shipped to Argentina directly by Teespring when ordering. If not just let me know and I'll see what I can do.
Guitars I'm willing to ship world wide but I'll have to check for any specifics with a shipping company. I haven't send a guitar to Argentina yet.
@@MentalDaan 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have been in joying your videos your work is wonderful keep it up
Hi Robert,
Thank you very much for the nice comment.
@@UnquendorGuitars hay just realized your from Holland l was born in Rotterdam and did a apprenticeship by de Klerk a cabinet shop now living in California sorry love your work I am starting to build guitars myself thanks again Robert
Comment for UA-cam algorithms :) I really enjoy your videos
Hey Mojito510,
Thank you for the comment.
And it's good to hear you're enjoying my videos.
So no staggered tuners needed with the 4x2 design or do you recommend them even with an angled headstock?
Daniel, Have you thought about using a small laser CNC to cut out your headstock inlays? I guess they wouldn't cut aluminum?
Hi JJ Dilon,
Yes I have tried to have my logos laser cut but with no success. My logo's are too small and too detailed.
Even with very high end industrial laser cutters and very skilled operators we had very little success.
The very thin lines and sharp corners and edges melt away. Cutting aluminum requires at least a 0,7 x the material thickness for the cut and even some more for the initial starting point. For a 2mm thick inlay that is 1,4mm which is too much for my tiny logos.
We had better results with 0.5mm thick stainless steel, but that is a pain in the @## to inlay.
I might give it anther go as one of my suppliers is expecting an even better laser cutter soon which in theory might be able to do it.
@@UnquendorGuitars Daniel, thanks for the explanation.
Another interesting videos. Really detailed explanation in every video. Great! Subscribed!
If i may suggest, one day you could make videos about the cost and wear of your tools that you can't sharpen/set yourself. I think it would be informative for us that didn't yet start to build. For example after how long your router bits get dull, or bandsaw blades gets sharpen or changed, drill bits, spindle sander sandpaper etc.
Hi Nick Guitar,
Thank you very much for your subscription.
I will look into your video suggestion, but it will be very tricky to make a video about tool wear and costs. There are so many variables to take into account when it comes to tool wear it might be impossible to come up with a general assumption. Let me think about this for a while because I do think it is a very valid topic to discuss.
Have you seen my "Is it worth it?" video? In this video I do give a somewhat general explanation and examples of the tool costs for when you're thinking about starting building guitars.
@@UnquendorGuitars yes i saw the video. Really informative.
I'm aware that you could talk about thousands of details. About the question - I wasn't referring to exact costs but more of a tool wear. I know there is sandpaper and sandpaper, as router bit and router bit, and one person may use this or that tools more to reach the same result.
It was more about your personal approximation - like "my body/neck template router bit gets dull after 4-6 guitars but the pickup/neck cavities one goes for years..."
In the end it's a suggestion. I'm just glad i can watch great videos as yours are. Just keep having fun.
Hi Daniel
Great vid again. I always find something informative and useful. I’ve been fiddling around with ways to set tuner positions myself. I worked it out eventually but not half as elegantly as you! Looking forward to the next instalment. Would you recommend the pillar drill that you use? I am interested in this model as it is compact and portable. Is it as accurate as advertised? 😎
Hi Martin,
Thank you very much for another nice comment.
I do recommend the Bosh PBD 40 pillar drill. I love it and won't use anything else unless Bosh makes a Profi (Blue) version.
It is indeed very compact, light and portable. That's one of the reasons I bought it.
The other reason is accuracy. Due to the fixed table the drill bit is always square/perpendicular to the table and your workpiece. Most pillar drills have an adjustable table which you always have to check, and usually adjust it to be square to the bit. An adjustable table might be useful for some jobs, but for guitar making you don't really need an adjustable table.
An other great benefit I think is the speed control to set the exact r.p.m. needed for the drill bit type and size without having to wrestle with several belts to adjust the speed.
You don't need a tool to change drill bits. The bits lock in place with a locking mechanism.
And off coarse the build in digital depth gauge and fool proof depth stop. Setting the required depth is so easy and reliable.
There are two down sides though.
The reach/depth of the drill press is a bit small. By that I mean the distance between the pillar and the drill bit. I can barely reach the holes needed for a string through bridge and the string ferules, and my body shape is relatively small.
And there is a tiny amount of play on the drill head (? where you attach your drill bit) It's not much but you have to be careful when drilling very precise holes.
But these two negatives don't weigh up to the positives in my opinion.
Hi Daniel.
Thanks for that. I’m not too trusting of online reviews so it’s good to get an informed opinion.😎
Extreme tea stirring, lol.
Hey Mr Waffles,
Extreme coffee stirring to be honest.
No tea allowed in my workshop. At least not for me...
@@UnquendorGuitars Coffee is better.