In this segment we'll review the basics of taping and coating a factory seam with a pan and knife. See more how- to drywall videos at Drywallinstruct... !
Mitch, your videos are about the first I've seen where I get the impression I'm actually learning from a pro. Too many apprentice level folks making "drywall pro" videos. So thank you!
I love it, "we don't need to spend too much time getting it perfect, some people spend way too much time getting it perfect". If I could mud as perfect as you just did the first two coats I wouldn't worry about the rest either. Well done sir.
I use all-purpose from tape to finish coat. I like having one material on the job site. I'm also not a big fan of a pans and knives. I rather hawk and trowels.
In the verbal instructions in your video, you said you used all purpose or taping mud on the factory joint before you applied the tape, but after laying the tape into the mud on the seam, did you then switch to topping mud to apply a coat on top of the tape, or did you top coat with more of the all purpose mud, and suggest that you would eventually use topping mud for any later/finishing coats?
You're actually just wiping the edges down to nothing, the wider the knife the less noticeable the inevitable hump when adding mud to a smooth surface. Good luck to you!
Is it normal for the factory recessed joints not to be 100% flat? I thought that if you just filled the void completely with no excess on the outside of the bevel, it would be perfect. I have been struggling too much on something that should be so simple. I have been using a 12” blade. In some spots it’s flat, in some I can see just the slightest amount of daylight under my blade, and in a few spots there is a very slight hump, that is only really noticeable when checking with the blade. It’s lead me to a nightmare process of never-ending sanding and coating trying to get it perfect. Ugh.. Sorry for the long question, but your videos have been greatly helpful.
Hi Mitch, Thanks for the instruction. What have you found the appx. drying time to be with the taping +topping coat done together? I understand there will be variables, bu assuming temp and humidity are in reasonable range. Thank you!
Typically with good temperature and air movement it takes 12 to 24 hours. In the summer with high temperatures and a breeze I've seen as fast as 3 hours!
What is the issue with using Durabond 90 on all factory and butt joints? Is that the only product you must use to guarantee a proper job with predictable results? why doesn't anybody talk about proper brands for us to buy? Thanks in advance for responding.
I suggest you watch my video on Drywall Joint Compounds. There's nothing wrong with using Durabond on any taped joints, the question is if you want to hand mix mud. Using all-purpose mud to tape and a lite AP or topping to coat with works excellent when not in a rush.
Mitch Wilcox it may not make too much of a difference. But when it's put in a banjo the other way it's much easier to pull. And when you have it on a butt joint the line down the middle is pushed in and not sticking out. so when you sand there's less of a chance of it flashing through.
William Greene I won't argue either of your points. I am a bit of a rebel I guess, if you watch my banjo video I put the tape in the opposite way because I actually like the tension so when I go fast my roll of tape doesn't unroll too fast. The beauty of the trades is that there are multiple opinions. Good luck to you!
@@drywallinstruction1766 if there was a "Front" and "back" the manufacturer would indicate so by printing it on the tape, which they don't. From my understanding the crease is there simply to make it easier to bend into the corner or joint, thus using one roll of tape for all joints rather than having multiple products for different situations. I guess it is more easier to hide by having the "crease" inside the joint on seams.
A factory joint is recessed edge that can be filled with mud to be made flat. A butted seam is a raised joint that need to be feathered out over board (usually 3-4 feet) to hide the hump. Factories are easier to finish. I usually recommend hanging your sheets vertically to minimize butted seams.
@@BonBonShrimp I dont actually and i can't recommend any videos on youtube as i haven't seen any that do it like i was taught. It takes a few years of practice to be good at drywall mudding. I recommend you hire a professional in your area, make sure to get references.
your tape is backwards and the tape is designed to fit in the drywall seam to help seal . it is not designed to be installed backwards . and shouldnt teach people to install any way.
how do you know tape installed backwards? i have tried to find infor about it on manufactories websites who producing tape so could not find which is the right way to install.looks like does not matter
Mitch, your videos are about the first I've seen where I get the impression I'm actually learning from a pro. Too many apprentice level folks making "drywall pro" videos. So thank you!
This project has been a lot of work and it's great to hear input like yours. I'm glad you're learning and thanks for checking in!
I rarely do drywall, but when I do I always come back to these videos, and it always comes out great!
I'm glad to hear that they help!
I love it, "we don't need to spend too much time getting it perfect, some people spend way too much time getting it perfect". If I could mud as perfect as you just did the first two coats I wouldn't worry about the rest either. Well done sir.
Thanks for the feedback Lane!
A whole bunch of really great videos! Thanks for taking the time to make and share these!
You're welcome and I'm glad they've been helpful!
My friend once told me, "You ain't building a piano, be done with it already."
I use all-purpose from tape to finish coat. I like having one material on the job site. I'm also not a big fan of a pans and knives. I rather hawk and trowels.
i like detail, for instance did you already cover the screws? or can i cover them when i put on the tape, where are the details
Mitch, how about a "repair" video where you have a factory joint meeting a butt joint?
That's just treated as a butt joint.
We call it a bastard joint
ua-cam.com/users/1stchoicedrywall
Can we tap on factory edge and cut edge joint without leveling the joint ? or should we need to level the joint first then let it dry for taping .
Excellent excellent excellent!
Omg John Malkovich knows drywall! Just kidding :) Great video, thanks for sharing.
In the verbal instructions in your video, you said you used all purpose or taping mud on the factory joint before you applied the tape, but after laying the tape into the mud on the seam, did you then switch to topping mud to apply a coat on top of the tape, or did you top coat with more of the all purpose mud, and suggest that you would eventually use topping mud for any later/finishing coats?
Check out my video in drywall compounds, yes I use topping to coat.
nice series of videos,why use a 12in knife when you wipe most of it off? why not just an 8 in knife? thanks
You're actually just wiping the edges down to nothing, the wider the knife the less noticeable the inevitable hump when adding mud to a smooth surface. Good luck to you!
Is it normal for the factory recessed joints not to be 100% flat? I thought that if you just filled the void completely with no excess on the outside of the bevel, it would be perfect. I have been struggling too much on something that should be so simple. I have been using a 12” blade. In some spots it’s flat, in some I can see just the slightest amount of daylight under my blade, and in a few spots there is a very slight hump, that is only really noticeable when checking with the blade. It’s lead me to a nightmare process of never-ending sanding and coating trying to get it perfect. Ugh.. Sorry for the long question, but your videos have been greatly helpful.
What about fibafuse?
Thanks!!
So no waiting for tape to dry first?
Definitely not necessary.
thank you
Hi Mitch,
Thanks for the instruction.
What have you found the appx. drying time to be with the taping +topping coat done together?
I understand there will be variables, bu assuming temp and humidity are in reasonable range.
Thank you!
Typically with good temperature and air movement it takes 12 to 24 hours. In the summer with high temperatures and a breeze I've seen as fast as 3 hours!
What is the issue with using Durabond 90 on all factory and butt joints? Is that the only product you must use to guarantee a proper job with predictable results?
why doesn't anybody talk about proper brands for us to buy? Thanks in advance for responding.
I suggest you watch my video on Drywall Joint Compounds. There's nothing wrong with using Durabond on any taped joints, the question is if you want to hand mix mud. Using all-purpose mud to tape and a lite AP or topping to coat with works excellent when not in a rush.
you're putting the tape on backwards!
That's a common belief. My experience is that it makes little to no difference which way the tape is applied.
Mitch Wilcox it may not make too much of a difference. But when it's put in a banjo the other way it's much easier to pull. And when you have it on a butt joint the line down the middle is pushed in and not sticking out. so when you sand there's less of a chance of it flashing through.
William Greene I won't argue either of your points. I am a bit of a rebel I guess, if you watch my banjo video I put the tape in the opposite way because I actually like the tension so when I go fast my roll of tape doesn't unroll too fast. The beauty of the trades is that there are multiple opinions. Good luck to you!
@@drywallinstruction1766 if there was a "Front" and "back" the manufacturer would indicate so by printing it on the tape, which they don't. From my understanding the crease is there simply to make it easier to bend into the corner or joint, thus using one roll of tape for all joints rather than having multiple products for different situations. I guess it is more easier to hide by having the "crease" inside the joint on seams.
So what's the difference between taping & coating a factory joint vs butt joint? How are the two processes different?
A factory joint is recessed edge that can be filled with mud to be made flat. A butted seam is a raised joint that need to be feathered out over board (usually 3-4 feet) to hide the hump. Factories are easier to finish. I usually recommend hanging your sheets vertically to minimize butted seams.
Thanks. Do you have instructions or video for taping and coating a butt joint?
@@BonBonShrimp I dont actually and i can't recommend any videos on youtube as i haven't seen any that do it like i was taught. It takes a few years of practice to be good at drywall mudding. I recommend you hire a professional in your area, make sure to get references.
why dont i see any drywall screws on the seam
John H ....if you’d pay attention, you’d notice he says there’s no screws cause it’s just a mock up, for the video
please do a wet rag video. i here about it. I've seen wet sanding with sponges and sanding blocks. but they all seem unsure of themselves.
using a wet sponge to smooth out imperfections instead of sanding
So if i am planning on finishing same day i would use hot mud for all coats?
Yes, with the exception of skimming with topping if you want to before texturing.
But hot mud can go along with paper tape and Be coating it but no skim it with it.??? I mean I thought hot mud don't get along with paper tape
your tape is backwards and the tape is designed to fit in the drywall seam to help seal . it is not designed to be installed backwards . and shouldnt teach people to install any way.
how do you know tape installed backwards? i have tried to find infor about it on manufactories websites who producing tape so could not find which is the right way to install.looks like does not matter
more patching video playlists here - ua-cam.com/video/kmNksSpf4AE/v-deo.html