I am a painting contractor and have to paint level 5 finishes or so called level 5 finishes where short cuts or the wrong types of mudd were being used. I have seen tape seems delaminate, crack and fall right off the wall after primer goes on. I have seen texture coatings reactivate and roll off after the wall is back rolled as well. Another common problem I often see is pin holes. While there may be many reasons, I think there would be less problems if your logic was practiced. The real cost to a customer is when things have to be fixed shortly after. The electrical industry has a universal code. I think the drywall industry should as well. My friend who is a drywall contractor and I were agreeing to disagree. I told him to take a close look at the bags, boxes, and buckets produced by compound manufactures. Keep it simple, easy to read, and number the materials in the stages they should be applied. Drywall guys speak different languages, have different educational backgrounds, and most likely, were trained in their own languages. Everyone I know, knows how to count to 5. One does not need to have a PHD to tape drywall nor do they need one to bake brownies. Look a the back of a box of brownies............the directions are so simple. Thanks for your video.
Thank you Mitch-this tutorial saved my butt as a first timer using hot mud. I used USG 45 going over repair areas taped with fiberglass mesh tape and got my patch fairly close, but it had way too may bumps and blemishes. I’m patching seven various sized holes in my home left from a plumbing repair job-four foot by one foot for the biggest and down to an 8” 10” hole. I saved the pieces they cut out and re-installed them-this is a little challenging taping and mudding over all these holes due to the orange peel texture causing the knife to chatter quite a bit. Your advice on wet-sanding/ragging hot mud instead of sanding is what saved me-I was able to smooth out everything and make a much better feathered edge using the wet sand methods. I also mixed the 45 mud a little loose. Thank you so much-you are a solid professional.
I enjoy your resilience throughout the entire video, no change of tone in your voice, no foul language and detailed explanation without criticism. Thank you so much.
Moses55845 Language? Either you know your trade or you don’t! Who cares if a master journeyman swears. Better for journeyman to cruse than to watch some wannabe and the DIY swearing at the idiot who knows nothing.
Just want to say I work for a paint store and we cater to a lot of drywall contractors. Mud, sanding, applying it etc. always confused me but you broke it down real easy! I feel way more confident in knowing what my drywall contractors are looking for now. Thanks a bunch!
Great video bro! We just started our new drywall repair business in Austin and its been so hard to find definitive information like this. I even call tech support at one of the big manufacturers, lol! We had a high end handyman business before this and before that a remodeling business. In my 22 years of trades, this has by far been the most enjoyable experience. Every day we are excited to learn new things, and refine our process to get a little better and a little faster. I'm great at patching, but my next focus is getting great at texture. Thanks so much!
Thank you for your wonderful instructional videos! As a DIYer I have watched a lot of different videos on drywall. Yours are the best because of your practical methods! Thank you!!
The light versions are almost the same as the regular version. Except the light versions are full of air bubbles. So you end up getting half as much mud for the same price.
This was VERY helpful. I was aware of the benefits of using hot mud which as a first time DIYer I was more interested in the 90min mud vs. 5min lol. I haven’t heard you mention it yet but I heard hot mud is what you need to use if you are using the mesh tape and all purpose is used for the paper tape. I also heard the hot mud is for pre-filling but I have not seen or heard much about the topping type of mud which sounds like it may be fairly useful for a newbie DIYer such as myself. I’m curious if hot mud could potentially be used in place of topping or if all purpose would be a better alternative if you didn’t have access to topping. Which would you say is easier to sand, the all purpose or the hot mud? I appreciate your content. It’s simple and easy to understand without all the extra time wasting junk I have come across in far too many other videos. Thank you.
Hot mud is generally only used when you don't have time to let your mud dry. It can give people without experience headaches and is definitely not meant to sand. Today there is less topping out there, lite all-purpose has filled that niche and has less shrinkage than the all-purpose of the past.
Let's make this easier to understand. There are really only 2 types of mud, mud w/ glue & mud w/out glue. Taping & all purpose muds have glue and should only be used to apply tape. The rest have no glue. As you said, mud w/ glue should never be used to top with and muds w/out glue should never be used to apply tape. What you call "wet ragging" is probably better described as "sponging". Using a tile sponge is the best way to get rid of ridges, I've ever found and I've been doing it for 40 years.
You didn't cover durabond or rapid set or why to use different mixes gypsum vs cement. For repair I use rapid set one pass for a lot of things nail holes, patches, plaster, drywall, stucco, column repair, it is truly great stuff you just need to wet rag/sponge instead of sanding because it is cement based like cement it will sand just not easy after cure.
What type of compound for over screw pops and areas of exposed paper? How many coats? Sanding, when how much? Could I use plus/3 for these? Is it sandable?
Excellent video! As someone who is in remodeling and takes pride in being a professional, I can tell you know your stuff and appreciate your sharing it!
What would you use to smooth out a wall that has some minor damage after removing wallpaper? Would a topping compound be suitable for that? I think the wall was skimcoat plaster before the wallpaper was installed (40 years ago). Great video!
Any mud would work, topping is easier to sand. The more important thing to remember is if you have much glue left on the wall it might peel or flake off eventually and not let the mud bond. Make sure that you remove the glue first. I'm glad the video helped!
Damm.... Hector just sent me back to the back up bench...my head is spinning with this crap...sounded easy then got difficult.... thanks to both of you for the info. I just wanted my bathroom wall to look decent after applying whatever mud the home depot" recommended but I couldn't get a smooth finish.... thought I was mixing it too thick, now I find out this info from u guys and will try something else. Thanks for the video and all info guys
Great video! I’m going to skim coat over knockdown walls and ceiling. Given the time constraint the plan is to do a few costs of 90min hot mud, then finish with a different compound before primer and paint. Do you have a suggestion for that final coat? Want to avoid flashing. Thanks
Sorry for the delay. I would use topping but the type of sealer use use will make an even bigger difference. The quality of your primer/sealer makes a huge difference. The best sealer to use for repairs to avoid flashing is Kilz2.
What compound would you suggest to use if you have to build it up in thickness to smooth out high low issues between sheets? Obviously the ideal solution would be to remove the drywall and resolve the high low whether that be removing obstructions or shimming the other panel; but its not feasible between it mostly being in the ceiling and the place being a rental and the drywall being prexisting from the original contractors who did a slap job on the drywall in the garage. From what I've read online the maximum coat thickness is 1/8" per application is that a correct rule of thumb?
Topping definitely shrinks less. The only downside to doing a really thick coat is that the mud has cracking in it as it shrinks. That doesn't matter much if you're coating it again with a thinner coat. I'm guessing that I've coated as thick as 1/4" at times to fill voids, I just realize it will take longer to dry and it will shrink down. Hot mud is ideal but you have to mix it, it doesn't shrink at all and sets up as fast as 5 minutes. You can tape and coat over hot mud immediately, but it does need overnight to cure.
Mitch, hands down the best videos and information about finishing drywall I have come across. Question, you refer to "topping compound" quite a bit; in my area -Pittsburgh,PA- i havent been able to locate anything labeled as such. HD carries USG products and their compounds are: all purpose, midweight, lightweight, Plus 3(also lightweight) and the hot mixes in both all purpose and light. Which one of these would be the best "topping compound"...lightweight?
You're the second person that's mentioned this. Plus3 is essentially the same thing as topping even though it says all-purpose on the packaging. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos, thanks for the feedback! Check out what's going on @ Drywallinstruction.com!
So I've been doing drywall "repair" for several years, I own a small business and I thought I'd mention my experience with lightweight all purpose. Sometimes I use it in my hopper to texture. And sometimes I'll use a fan on the patch to speed up the drying (depending on the weather) what has happened, (only with light weight) is the fan dries it to a point where I should be able to knock down. But it balls up while knocking it down. I've never had this happen with the regular joint compound only the light weight product. I realize I could just not use a fan to speed things up but sometimes it's a big time saver. So now I only use the heavy shit, unless the store is out of it. Q
I know exactly what you're talking about when trying to speed up knockdown. I didn't realize that Lite and regular AP performed differently that way. I just thought the problem was drying out the top faster than the bottom and hence it balls up like you say. That's why knockdown over a painted surface is difficult, the moisture doesn't absorb into the surface and dries on top faster.
Well, thanks for 'unveiling' the secret :) I'm doing some DIY work in my house, and this might have been the reason I hated drywall joints so much! (this video combined to the mesh vs paper one are making me really reconsider drywall joints being the biggest PITA in home construction work !)
i used grey readymix mud on a ceiling. Priner not covering, can see shadow of mud. tried kilz with no success. should have used white mud. any advice on ho to resove this issue?
You definitely can but it may not be worth the extra work in mixing all of that mud. I know people that have had to do it because they were working in a commercial space that had to be done overnight. Not better or stronger, just faster.
Good information I have over 50 years in the drywall trade. Funny how he's sitting next to a drywall joint that is not staggered. This is not to any code in any state i have ever worked. All joints need to be staggers at lest 16 inches to meet code.
Good eye Paul. The next time I throw up a temporary wall in my garage to create a recording space I'll be more thoughtful. Do you think they'll give me grief for my 4' on center framing?
Mitch, My bathroom is all drywall, no cement board...will be using the Schluter System in the shower.. Kerdi membrane..(4'x5') area. Now on the straight 10 ft wall where the shower door will be hung, I want to run cement mesh tape continuous to both ends.Now can I use unmodified mortar to embed the mesh tape on first coat. Now with the second coat stop about 10" past the shower door in dry area...don't know exactly where tile and bull nose will end at this point. Now can I use setting joint compound over the unmodified mortar past the 10" mark? Trying to figure out the transition. Can you use setting joint compound from the shower area to end of the 10' ? One more question...the walls are 9' ..When running the mesh tape in the corners of the shower area, Do I use unmodified all the way to the ceiling or setting joint compound. Will be tiling about 3/4 up. Please tell me what I need to do. Thanks Mitch!
Hi Don, I'm just not familiar with those products. I can tell you that the membrane products in general have been very successful. I used a product 10 years ago over green board in my home and I've had no problem at all.
I taped and finished off angle ceiling joints with all purpose premixed mud ( green top) and straight flex tape due to large gaps in drywall and it all looked great but within 6 months there was lots of peeling of the tape. I have to repair again. Should i add water to make it a creamier consistency? Whats my best option? Will that create better bonding? Both of these homes are cathedral ceilings and the previous tape was peeling so i retaped.
You do do thin AP mud to prevent bubbling but I think there's a good chance the framing is moving with your cathedral ceilings. It's rare but it happens. I had a similar experience, retaped a lot of cracked seams and they all were cracked again a few months later. That's why you can't guarantee crack repair.
i just buy tapepro corner kit，but the corner tape i am using mud box with base coat，when i apply topcoat with lightweight，i was no offset on side，can u teach me which coat better i use for the base and final top coat？must me wet coat on my compound tube
I don’t know about this man. I agree you need taping, but the best taper I know swears by everything with all purpose. He’s been doing it for 40 years no issues
It's not hard to see why dyiers dont know the difference, I recently called a Lowe's and asked them if they carried taping mud. They told me they had several boxes, when I arrived they only had topping. They had no idea taping mud even existed!
The big box stores fonts seem to carry the topping mix. I can only find various all purpose and hot muds. Where can I buy the topping mix? Thanks for the great videos!
ny manufacturers are going away from labeling it "topping", a comparable product is the ultra-lite version of their all purpose mud. If you check their website or read on the box it will indicate that it is more sandable. I'm glad you're finding the videos helpful!
Thanks! I found this stuff called Plus 3 by USG that looks perfect. If I don't need the whole big bucket at once can I put the lid back on and expect to be able to use the rest of it in a few weeks?
This was great (as are all your videos) but can you explain whether one needs to use 'Topping' for the final coat(s) or can one use something like 'CGC DUST CONTROL Drywall Compound, Ready Mixed' or any of the other 20+ drywall compound products I see at my local Canadian Home Depot which are all called 'drywall compound' but none are called 'Topping'.
You're not the only one having a hard time finding topping, the manufacturers appear to be changing their product identification a little bit. Topping is just all purpose minus the amount of glue base added, that's what makes it easier to sand. You might find USG Plus3 at your store which says it's All Purpose but is softer like topping, if not look for some indication that it is a topping like product. Watch out for products that say they're easy to sand, sometimes they're deceiving :).
Thanks. There is no CGC Plus3. I am not sure how to look for an indication that it is a topping like product except for the fact there is also a CGC 'All-Purpose Lite', an 'UltraLite', an 'X-Tra Light' and then even a 'Machine Mud' Drywall Compound. I've searched and nothing anywhere tells me which to use. :(
Thanks. It is described as 'excellent for finishing coats' so it seems like that might be the best choice for a Topping equivalent, but then that begs the question of what the Lite & Ultralight are for as they and the All-Purpose are all described as 'ideal for embedding tape, filling and finishing'. How in the world is a newbie supposed to decide amongst those other 3 as the first coats?
I have to admit that I'm just not a compound additive guy. I mentioned that I've found where some actually add dish soap to change consistency but I haven't found it necessary to use that or any other additive.
For your taping coat do you use all purpose premixed or powered? The reason I ask is I've heard that powdered mud relies on a chemical reaction that ends in being harder than the drying (glue) in all purpose pre-mixed.
You're exactly right but it depends on the size of your job. All Purpose mud is a proven product as far as creating a strong bond for tape and is used on larger jobs because it's pre-mixed and faster. "Hot mud" or setting type compound is a harder product but is more difficult to work with and more labor intensive because it has to be mixed. Having said that, because as a repair guy I'm in and out in one day on 99 percent of what I do, I use 5 min. hot mud for most everything I do.
Been doing it for years. I buy Dawn in the big bottles at Sam's. It helps make the mud smoother, and stay smoother especially in the summer heat. I paint a fair bit of my work and I've never had an issue.
Mitch, your video is great, but, my question is, what do I use, or does it matter, to tape and mud joints on "green board", or moisture/mold resistant board? Does it matter?
Agreed, but why would you use AP if topping costs the same and is easier to sand? I'm also finding that topping is supposedly hard to find, big box stores sell USG Plus3 and that's essentially topping. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
alvidrez79 the plus3 is what we call "puff mud". it's really puffy and light weight, the downside to all of these "topping" muds are that they scratch and dent really easy. you can almost sand it with your hand, and that's not good for a final product. cause scratches and dents show up very very easy which means a lot more touch ups.
@@drywallinstruction1766 the more glue the stronger, so it has its place, I think, But you can add glue to hot mud in your water mix. this makes it more scratch resistant.
man you need to monetize your vids. anything extra would help out the family. thnx for your vids im about to mud myself . im building our house and living in it .lol im wanting to do a level 5 finish could you walk me through the steps? its a very personal house to use, its a passive home! plus i have vaulted ceilings, ive been at it for 3 yrs, i have not mudded yet but drywall is up thank you mitch i have a yt video too.
This project is in the early stages, I do plan to monetize but am building a foundation and deciding which route to go. Advertising per view doesn't interest me just yet, I think my best monetization source will be the drywall repair business plan I am preparing to sell. As far as your level 5 finish goes I actually believe if you follow each principle, (taping, application, sanding, and using the correct product) that I've taught in these free videos you can achieve a level 5 finish. Check out Drywallinstruction.com, it will continue to change as my project progresses!
yea i will look into it. so if i use a pre mix the 1st and 2nd coat i should use taping mix and the third with topping. what should i use for the level 5 spray, topping thinned out with water ?
In the areas I've worked texture has been the preferred route. I have little experience with Level 5 smooth wall. The spray coat is foreign to me but I can only imagine using thinned topping for that coat. Wide open with vaulted ceilings would have to be the ultimate test for a smooth wall finish!
Chet Langford unless you are a gluten for punishment I would stay away from the level 5 over that much area, personality I love skim coating (which is really all level 5 is) but unless you are really good with your tools you are going to have a ton of sanding to do, and that is were the punishment comes in. if you get your joints flat as you should anyways the skim coat is not needed for a nice smooth wall/ceiling finish.
I am a painting contractor and have to paint level 5 finishes or so called level 5 finishes where short cuts or the wrong types of mudd were being used. I have seen tape seems delaminate, crack and fall right off the wall after primer goes on. I have seen texture coatings reactivate and roll off after the wall is back rolled as well. Another common problem I often see is pin holes. While there may be many reasons, I think there would be less problems if your logic was practiced. The real cost to a customer is when things have to be fixed shortly after. The electrical industry has a universal code. I think the drywall industry should as well. My friend who is a drywall contractor and I were agreeing to disagree. I told him to take a close look at the bags, boxes, and buckets produced by compound manufactures. Keep it simple, easy to read, and number the materials in the stages they should be applied. Drywall guys speak different languages, have different educational backgrounds, and most likely, were trained in their own languages. Everyone I know, knows how to count to 5. One does not need to have a PHD to tape drywall nor do they need one to bake brownies. Look a the back of a box of brownies............the directions are so simple. Thanks for your video.
Thank you Mitch-this tutorial saved my butt as a first timer using hot mud. I used USG 45 going over repair areas taped with fiberglass mesh tape and got my patch fairly close, but it had way too may bumps and blemishes. I’m patching seven various sized holes in my home left from a plumbing repair job-four foot by one foot for the biggest and down to an 8” 10” hole. I saved the pieces they cut out and re-installed them-this is a little challenging taping and mudding over all these holes due to the orange peel texture causing the knife to chatter quite a bit. Your advice on wet-sanding/ragging hot mud instead of sanding is what saved me-I was able to smooth out everything and make a much better feathered edge using the wet sand methods. I also mixed the 45 mud a little loose. Thank you so much-you are a solid professional.
I'm so glad it helped!
I enjoy your resilience throughout the entire video, no change of tone in your voice, no foul language and detailed explanation without criticism. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck to you!
Moses55845
Language?
Either you know your trade or you don’t!
Who cares if a master journeyman swears.
Better for journeyman to cruse than to watch some wannabe and the DIY swearing at the idiot who knows nothing.
No bullshit!! You’re the only guy that has properly explained the mud types. Thanks for a great video! 👍👍
Just want to say I work for a paint store and we cater to a lot of drywall contractors. Mud, sanding, applying it etc. always confused me but you broke it down real easy! I feel way more confident in knowing what my drywall contractors are looking for now. Thanks a bunch!
You're so welcome. I'm glad it helped!
Great video bro! We just started our new drywall repair business in Austin and its been so hard to find definitive information like this. I even call tech support at one of the big manufacturers, lol! We had a high end handyman business before this and before that a remodeling business. In my 22 years of trades, this has by far been the most enjoyable experience. Every day we are excited to learn new things, and refine our process to get a little better and a little faster. I'm great at patching, but my next focus is getting great at texture. Thanks so much!
Vancouver Carpenter has a video about this too. You guys are incredible
When I was new to drywall I finished my basement with mesh tape and nothing but Sheetrock All Purpose mud. It's 18 years later and still looks perfect
"All Problems" mud. 5 min mud is sometimes 40 min mud depending upon environmental conditions.
Thank you for your wonderful instructional videos! As a DIYer I have watched a lot of different videos on drywall. Yours are the best because of your practical methods! Thank you!!
Thanks for the feedback Carla!
Spectacular presentation, thank you so much.
The light versions are almost the same as the regular version. Except the light versions are full of air bubbles. So you end up getting half as much mud for the same price.
No.
@@drywallinstruction1766 Hmm. Which brands are full of air? ITs well known that light versions are airy. And their coverage is al lot less.
@@travisk5589 I agree, yet it maybe the brands used?
This was VERY helpful. I was aware of the benefits of using hot mud which as a first time DIYer I was more interested in the 90min mud vs. 5min lol. I haven’t heard you mention it yet but I heard hot mud is what you need to use if you are using the mesh tape and all purpose is used for the paper tape. I also heard the hot mud is for pre-filling but I have not seen or heard much about the topping type of mud which sounds like it may be fairly useful for a newbie DIYer such as myself.
I’m curious if hot mud could potentially be used in place of topping or if all purpose would be a better alternative if you didn’t have access to topping. Which would you say is easier to sand, the all purpose or the hot mud?
I appreciate your content. It’s simple and easy to understand without all the extra time wasting junk I have come across in far too many other videos. Thank you.
Hot mud is generally only used when you don't have time to let your mud dry. It can give people without experience headaches and is definitely not meant to sand. Today there is less topping out there, lite all-purpose has filled that niche and has less shrinkage than the all-purpose of the past.
@7:24 bad advise! y texture over hotmud so the patch will show thru?
everything that saves me time, saves me money...thank you Subscribed.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience
I'm so glad you're enjoying the videos, Thanks for checking in!
Let's make this easier to understand. There are really only 2 types of mud, mud w/ glue & mud w/out glue. Taping & all purpose muds have glue and should only be used to apply tape. The rest have no glue. As you said, mud w/ glue should never be used to top with and muds w/out glue should never be used to apply tape. What you call "wet ragging" is probably better described as "sponging". Using a tile sponge is the best way to get rid of ridges, I've ever found and I've been doing it for 40 years.
You didn't cover durabond or rapid set or why to use different mixes gypsum vs cement. For repair I use rapid set one pass for a lot of things nail holes, patches, plaster, drywall, stucco, column repair, it is truly great stuff you just need to wet rag/sponge instead of sanding because it is cement based like cement it will sand just not easy after cure.
Check out "Hot Mud Basics". I haven't gone in depth because I've included that info. in information I'm selling with my Drywall Repair Business Plan.
Structo-lite or other brands of it are like cement. I wish there were more people doing cement..."sad" to see all this gypsum drywall/plaster
What type of compound for over screw pops and areas of exposed paper? How many coats? Sanding, when how much? Could I use plus/3 for these? Is it sandable?
Excellent video! As someone who is in remodeling and takes pride in being a professional, I can tell you know your stuff and appreciate your sharing it!
Thanks for the feedback Jeff! If you haven't yet, check out Drywallinstruction.com.
What would you use to smooth out a wall that has some minor damage after removing wallpaper? Would a topping compound be suitable for that? I think the wall was skimcoat plaster before the wallpaper was installed (40 years ago). Great video!
Any mud would work, topping is easier to sand. The more important thing to remember is if you have much glue left on the wall it might peel or flake off eventually and not let the mud bond. Make sure that you remove the glue first. I'm glad the video helped!
Very informative for a 60 year old novice. Thank you!
Bob Atchison That’s me too! Exactly!
Damm.... Hector just sent me back to the back up bench...my head is spinning with this crap...sounded easy then got difficult.... thanks to both of you for the info. I just wanted my bathroom wall to look decent after applying whatever mud the home depot" recommended but I couldn't get a smooth finish.... thought I was mixing it too thick, now I find out this info from u guys and will try something else.
Thanks for the video and all info guys
Great video! I’m going to skim coat over knockdown walls and ceiling. Given the time constraint the plan is to do a few costs of 90min hot mud, then finish with a different compound before primer and paint. Do you have a suggestion for that final coat? Want to avoid flashing. Thanks
Sorry for the delay. I would use topping but the type of sealer use use will make an even bigger difference. The quality of your primer/sealer makes a huge difference. The best sealer to use for repairs to avoid flashing is Kilz2.
What compound would you suggest to use if you have to build it up in thickness to smooth out high low issues between sheets? Obviously the ideal solution would be to remove the drywall and resolve the high low whether that be removing obstructions or shimming the other panel; but its not feasible between it mostly being in the ceiling and the place being a rental and the drywall being prexisting from the original contractors who did a slap job on the drywall in the garage. From what I've read online the maximum coat thickness is 1/8" per application is that a correct rule of thumb?
Topping definitely shrinks less. The only downside to doing a really thick coat is that the mud has cracking in it as it shrinks. That doesn't matter much if you're coating it again with a thinner coat. I'm guessing that I've coated as thick as 1/4" at times to fill voids, I just realize it will take longer to dry and it will shrink down. Hot mud is ideal but you have to mix it, it doesn't shrink at all and sets up as fast as 5 minutes. You can tape and coat over hot mud immediately, but it does need overnight to cure.
Mitch, hands down the best videos and information about finishing drywall I have come across. Question, you refer to "topping compound" quite a bit; in my area -Pittsburgh,PA- i havent been able to locate anything labeled as such. HD carries USG products and their compounds are: all purpose, midweight, lightweight, Plus 3(also lightweight) and the hot mixes in both all purpose and light. Which one of these would be the best "topping compound"...lightweight?
You're the second person that's mentioned this. Plus3 is essentially the same thing as topping even though it says all-purpose on the packaging. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos, thanks for the feedback! Check out what's going on @ Drywallinstruction.com!
Beautifully explained. Cheers, mate!
Glad it helped!
no strucolite?
So I've been doing drywall "repair" for several years, I own a small business and I thought I'd mention my experience with lightweight all purpose. Sometimes I use it in my hopper to texture. And sometimes I'll use a fan on the patch to speed up the drying (depending on the weather) what has happened, (only with light weight) is the fan dries it to a point where I should be able to knock down. But it balls up while knocking it down. I've never had this happen with the regular joint compound only the light weight product.
I realize I could just not use a fan to speed things up but sometimes it's a big time saver. So now I only use the heavy shit, unless the store is out of it. Q
I know exactly what you're talking about when trying to speed up knockdown. I didn't realize that Lite and regular AP performed differently that way. I just thought the problem was drying out the top faster than the bottom and hence it balls up like you say. That's why knockdown over a painted surface is difficult, the moisture doesn't absorb into the surface and dries on top faster.
Proform i have used it for the last 14 years for all install repair top coat textures
I appreciate the information I wish I would've heard it earlier need to work on presentation a little bed but I like your style
Well, thanks for 'unveiling' the secret :)
I'm doing some DIY work in my house, and this might have been the reason I hated drywall joints so much! (this video combined to the mesh vs paper one are making me really reconsider drywall joints being the biggest PITA in home construction work !)
You're welcome Victor! Good luck with your project!
i used grey readymix mud on a ceiling. Priner not covering, can see shadow of mud. tried kilz with no success. should have used white mud. any advice on ho to resove this issue?
I've never heard of grey ready mix mud. Who makes it?
What do u use on screws ?
How about taping with 90min? Like a whole room/new drywall. Stronger or better than typical taping premix?
You definitely can but it may not be worth the extra work in mixing all of that mud. I know people that have had to do it because they were working in a commercial space that had to be done overnight. Not better or stronger, just faster.
Good information I have over 50 years in the drywall trade. Funny how he's sitting next to a drywall joint that is not staggered.
This is not to any code in any state i have ever worked. All joints need to be staggers at lest 16 inches to meet code.
Good eye Paul. The next time I throw up a temporary wall in my garage to create a recording space I'll be more thoughtful. Do you think they'll give me grief for my 4' on center framing?
I really need to know what you think about a flat box banjo bazooka etc
See my banjo video.
Mitch, My bathroom is all drywall, no cement board...will be using the Schluter System in the shower.. Kerdi membrane..(4'x5') area. Now on the straight 10 ft wall where the shower door will be hung, I want to run cement mesh tape continuous to both ends.Now can I use unmodified mortar to embed the mesh tape on first coat. Now with the second coat stop about 10" past the shower door in dry area...don't know exactly where tile and bull nose will end at this point. Now can I use setting joint compound over the unmodified mortar past the 10" mark? Trying to figure out the transition. Can you use setting joint compound from the shower area to end of the 10' ?
One more question...the walls are 9' ..When running the mesh tape in the corners of the shower area, Do I use unmodified all the way to the ceiling or setting joint compound. Will be tiling about 3/4 up. Please tell me what I need to do. Thanks Mitch!
Hi Don, I'm just not familiar with those products. I can tell you that the membrane products in general have been very successful. I used a product 10 years ago over green board in my home and I've had no problem at all.
What mud would you use for level 5 skimming?
Either Topping or Lite All Purpose (which has replaced Topping in a lot of areas).
I taped and finished off angle ceiling joints with all purpose premixed mud ( green top) and straight flex tape due to large gaps in drywall and it all looked great but within 6 months there was lots of peeling of the tape. I have to repair again. Should i add water to make it a creamier consistency? Whats my best option? Will that create better bonding? Both of these homes are cathedral ceilings and the previous tape was peeling so i retaped.
You do do thin AP mud to prevent bubbling but I think there's a good chance the framing is moving with your cathedral ceilings. It's rare but it happens. I had a similar experience, retaped a lot of cracked seams and they all were cracked again a few months later. That's why you can't guarantee crack repair.
Lite weight muds dry much softer than full weight muds. You can scratch lite weight with a soft bristle brush. I almost never use it.
I agree that lite weight muds are softer. However, I've never seen evidence that once painted, lite weight mud scratches easier than regular muds.
i just buy tapepro corner kit，but the corner tape i am using mud box with base coat，when i apply topcoat with lightweight，i was no offset on side，can u teach me which coat better i use for the base and final top coat？must me wet coat on my compound tube
How do you know when premixed mud has gone bad?
If frozen mud separates and is no longer good. It takes some time but it can get bad from age and will actually have a bad smell to it.
I don’t know about this man. I agree you need taping, but the best taper I know swears by everything with all purpose. He’s been doing it for 40 years no issues
JPI Concepts so he’s like 60 and never done a different job in his life? I’d like to meet a guy like that.
TheOriginal JoeSchmoe I use to work union and it was pretty common.
I dont think he said not to use AP, he said to use it in the right application like taping.
What kind of mud do you use 1st 2nd coat so forth? Where I live its not called taping lite, topping etc. only mud and mud with hardener..
Interesting, more hardener when actually applying tape and then texturing. Less hardener on anything you'll sand.
thanks, bro. Nice shoes, too.
welcome to drywall world....great video!
Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
It's not hard to see why dyiers dont know the difference, I recently called a Lowe's and asked them if they carried taping mud. They told me they had several boxes, when I arrived they only had topping. They had no idea taping mud even existed!
The big box stores fonts seem to carry the topping mix. I can only find various all purpose and hot muds. Where can I buy the topping mix? Thanks for the great videos!
ny manufacturers are going away from labeling it "topping", a comparable product is the ultra-lite version of their all purpose mud. If you check their website or read on the box it will indicate that it is more sandable. I'm glad you're finding the videos helpful!
That's "Many".
Thanks! I found this stuff called Plus 3 by USG that looks perfect. If I don't need the whole big bucket at once can I put the lid back on and expect to be able to use the rest of it in a few weeks?
That's a perfect example of what I was talking about. It will absolutely last if you keep a lid on it.
This was great (as are all your videos) but can you explain whether one needs to use 'Topping' for the final coat(s) or can one use something like 'CGC DUST CONTROL Drywall Compound, Ready Mixed' or any of the other 20+ drywall compound products I see at my local Canadian Home Depot which are all called 'drywall compound' but none are called 'Topping'.
You're not the only one having a hard time finding topping, the manufacturers appear to be changing their product identification a little bit. Topping is just all purpose minus the amount of glue base added, that's what makes it easier to sand. You might find USG Plus3 at your store which says it's All Purpose but is softer like topping, if not look for some indication that it is a topping like product. Watch out for products that say they're easy to sand, sometimes they're deceiving :).
Thanks. There is no CGC Plus3. I am not sure how to look for an indication that it is a topping like product except for the fact there is also a CGC 'All-Purpose Lite', an 'UltraLite', an 'X-Tra Light' and then even a 'Machine Mud' Drywall Compound. I've searched and nothing anywhere tells me which to use. :(
By looking at their website it looks like X-Tra Lite is what you want. For some reason they're going away from the word "topping".
It looks like I'm going to have to make another video! Thanks for asking! Check out Drywallinstruction.com!
Thanks. It is described as 'excellent for finishing coats' so it seems like that might be the best choice for a Topping equivalent, but then that begs the question of what the Lite & Ultralight are for as they and the All-Purpose are all described as 'ideal for embedding tape, filling and finishing'. How in the world is a newbie supposed to decide amongst those other 3 as the first coats?
son of a Mitch...im subscribing
I thought all purpose mud was for all purposes. Who would have known that it's only good for taping and texture.
Can you make a video about compound additives?
I have to admit that I'm just not a compound additive guy. I mentioned that I've found where some actually add dish soap to change consistency but I haven't found it necessary to use that or any other additive.
@@drywallinstruction1766 I think he is referring to glues that add strength..perhaps?
Nice video but why aren't those seams staggered in the video
Don't worry too much, just a backdrop for recording. Believe me, you're not the only one who's called me out on it. :)
I figured it was something of that sence all jokes aside great knowledge man what's your facebook name. You seem to be a good taper. And finisher
Good videos by the way
Hi what kind of mud do you recommend for making a wall sculpture?
if you use drywall mud I would suggest something that has less shrinkage, Topping Compound, if available, would be best for that.
tina smith plaster
How to shoot foundation house grade
very helpful thanks for teaching me
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Is plus 3 a topping mud?
It's technically an all-purpose compound but performs more like topping. Easier to sand and less shrinkage.
@@drywallinstruction1766 thanks.
What kind of mud would you recommend to tape and mud drywall?
Joint compound and topping !!
Excellent info! Thanks! Subscribed!
Thanks David! Check out our website for upcoming changes.
For your taping coat do you use all purpose premixed or powered? The reason I ask is I've heard that powdered mud relies on a chemical reaction that ends in being harder than the drying (glue) in all purpose pre-mixed.
You're exactly right but it depends on the size of your job. All Purpose mud is a proven product as far as creating a strong bond for tape and is used on larger jobs because it's pre-mixed and faster. "Hot mud" or setting type compound is a harder product but is more difficult to work with and more labor intensive because it has to be mixed. Having said that, because as a repair guy I'm in and out in one day on 99 percent of what I do, I use 5 min. hot mud for most everything I do.
Great information..Thanks!
He saw a video. Where the person was using dish soap in their mud. That sounds kinda hokey.
I've heard multiple accounts of people doing that, definitely not something I've ever tried.
I don't think it would help when the painters come in. and it might react wrong with the glues in the base coat.
Been doing it for years. I buy Dawn in the big bottles at Sam's. It helps make the mud smoother, and stay smoother especially in the summer heat. I paint a fair bit of my work and I've never had an issue.
What did , " wet rag " mean ? Thank you Than you
The term "wet rag" refers to wiping hot mud with a wet rag in place of sanding.
Where do I get topping mud?
In my area Home Depot carries Lite Topping but it varies from one place to another.
Mitch, your video is great, but, my question is, what do I use, or does it matter, to tape and mud joints on "green board", or moisture/mold resistant board? Does it matter?
Same as normal drywall. Good luck to you!
Thanks.
You're Welcome, good luck to you!
been mudding 20 years fix all is the way to go
Anthony Maniz I agree, it's bulletproof!
Why does it seem mud lessons are from instructors from canada. U.S. customers don't or can't Canadian products.
What does wetrag mean?
The term "wet rag" refers to wiping down the mud with a wet rag when you use hot mud as opposed to sanding after regular mud is dry.
A good mud guy doesn't need to sand much , all purpose will get the job done
Agreed, but why would you use AP if topping costs the same and is easier to sand? I'm also finding that topping is supposedly hard to find, big box stores sell USG Plus3 and that's essentially topping. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
alvidrez79 the plus3 is what we call "puff mud". it's really puffy and light weight, the downside to all of these "topping" muds are that they scratch and dent really easy. you can almost sand it with your hand, and that's not good for a final product. cause scratches and dents show up very very easy which means a lot more touch ups.
@@drywallinstruction1766 the more glue the stronger, so it has its place, I think, But you can add glue to hot mud in your water mix. this makes it more scratch resistant.
man you need to monetize your vids. anything extra would help out the family. thnx for your vids im about to mud myself . im building our house and living in it .lol im wanting to do a level 5 finish could you walk me through the steps? its a very personal house to use, its a passive home! plus i have vaulted ceilings, ive been at it for 3 yrs, i have not mudded yet but drywall is up
thank you mitch i have a yt video too.
This project is in the early stages, I do plan to monetize but am building a foundation and deciding which route to go. Advertising per view doesn't interest me just yet, I think my best monetization source will be the drywall repair business plan I am preparing to sell. As far as your level 5 finish goes I actually believe if you follow each principle, (taping, application, sanding, and using the correct product) that I've taught in these free videos you can achieve a level 5 finish. Check out Drywallinstruction.com, it will continue to change as my project progresses!
yea i will look into it. so if i use a pre mix the 1st and 2nd coat i should use taping mix and the third with topping. what should i use for the level 5 spray, topping thinned out with water ?
In the areas I've worked texture has been the preferred route. I have little experience with Level 5 smooth wall. The spray coat is foreign to me but I can only imagine using thinned topping for that coat. Wide open with vaulted ceilings would have to be the ultimate test for a smooth wall finish!
Chet Langford unless you are a gluten for punishment I would stay away from the level 5 over that much area, personality I love skim coating (which is really all level 5 is) but unless you are really good with your tools you are going to have a ton of sanding to do, and that is were the punishment comes in. if you get your joints flat as you should anyways the skim coat is not needed for a nice smooth wall/ceiling finish.
lol I have been rolling a vw up the hill for awhile lol but i agree . i have been thinking alot about this! thanks anthony
Lightweight mud does not make good Texture regular all purpose better
I personally have had no issues using lite AP for texture.
Why should I listen to a guy who lines up his seams.