I used your vid to guide me thru... did front n rears.. the caliper piston compressor is an awesome lil tool! u definately need some good hand strength/grip to do it though..thanx Arun!
wow..... hard to watch.....I'd check your seals after that brake job! I hope you took the cap off the reservoir...cause it looks like you didn't touch the bleed nipple....
I bought the kit you were speaking of in the video for my 2002 Audi TT. Doesn't fit, I can't get the plate between the piston and the caliber. I need about 1/16" more room. :/
At 1:39, I can see that I'm using a 13 mm to turn and a 15 mm to hold. Are those the ones you're talking about? Sorry, no experience with a B7 ... you really should buy the Bentley CD, even though it's a bit pricey.
you should really clean the caliper, re lube any slide pins if there are any, and also grease the pads... why go through all this and end up with squeaking brake pads?
While pushing any piston back it is advisable that the bleed nipple is opened to release fluid pressure, this makes it easier and prevents forcing the fluid all the way back to the master brake cylinder, and potentially reversing the internal seals which will cause brake failure ?? DO NOT use a G clamp as other suggest on any VW/AUDI/SEAT/SKODA vehicles as these are windback type pistons and are designed to be screwed back in, later model with electronic handbrake must be wound in using computer....
Wenn ihr die Bremsbacken wechselt könnt ihr eure Bremsbacken lakieren. ich habe gerade den hier gekauft.. ist super gelungen ! www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008D0MCJ6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B008D0MCJ6&linkCode=as2&tag=httpswww05790-21
+Sam Sreca I have a 2001 Allroad, 174,000 miles and Arun is correct, I've gone through 7 sets of pads in the front and just now ready for my 3rd set in the rear only because I need calipers and might as well throw new rotors and pads on while I'm at it.
Ouch!!!, this was a painful video to watch... First of all, why are you using these heavy duty mechanical gloves... unnecessary. What about using a socket and a ratchet next time instead of 2 open end wrenches. Next time, remove the whole bloody caliper off. Finally those brakes pads did NOT need changing.They were still good.
Well done video, I too have the cube. Thanks for the heads up.
I used your vid to guide me thru... did front n rears.. the caliper piston compressor is an awesome lil tool! u definately need some good hand strength/grip to do it though..thanx Arun!
Cool video! I have the cube,glad that you pointed that out that it does not work...
Thank you for the great video....
I feel confident to attempt it now...
Super tare vizualizarile
Thank you for helping me save money. :)
after your film, I feel like I ate stones
awesome
wow..... hard to watch.....I'd check your seals after that brake job! I hope you took the cap off the reservoir...cause it looks like you didn't touch the bleed nipple....
You dont need to bleed it, just open the brake reservoir cap and leave it off with some rags around it
I'd take the cap off the brake reservoir also due to displacement pressure and paint all of the caliper!!!
what is the tool called
I bought the kit you were speaking of in the video for my 2002 Audi TT. Doesn't fit, I can't get the plate between the piston and the caliber. I need about 1/16" more room. :/
+Robert Parkhurst File off the stubs on the side you dont need. They're very hard so use an electric drill with a stone grinder attachment.
Ah, yes. Sorry, I don't remember -- haven't had to do that in a while. (I have a whole set of hex bits, for that very reason!)
hey just some admonishment.... you may want to show how the tool is placed into the caliper & how it functions...@ 3:05
Dont need special tool. Its also made for a regular rachet. Save $45
I used a voice grip
What's the name of the tool that compresses the piston?
Caliper piston compressor tool, I believe.
At 1:39, I can see that I'm using a 13 mm to turn and a 15 mm to hold. Are those the ones you're talking about? Sorry, no experience with a B7 ... you really should buy the Bentley CD, even though it's a bit pricey.
you should really clean the caliper, re lube any slide pins if there are any, and also grease the pads... why go through all this and end up with squeaking brake pads?
While pushing any piston back it is advisable that the bleed nipple is opened to release fluid pressure, this makes it easier and prevents forcing the fluid all the way back to the master brake cylinder, and potentially reversing the internal seals which will cause brake failure ?? DO NOT use a G clamp as other suggest on any VW/AUDI/SEAT/SKODA vehicles as these are windback type pistons and are designed to be screwed back in, later model with electronic handbrake must be wound in using computer....
You can manually wind back the piston in an electric handbrake set up also. I've done a few.
Turn the wheel to left or right...easier access...
Smiffy miffed the rear wheels dont turn left and right...
Wenn ihr die Bremsbacken wechselt könnt ihr eure Bremsbacken lakieren. ich habe gerade den hier gekauft.. ist super gelungen !
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008D0MCJ6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B008D0MCJ6&linkCode=as2&tag=httpswww05790-21
Hmm, shame the mechanic barely knew what he was supposed to be doing...
I dont think those are the original pads after 103000 miles.... but anyway thanks for the help
They were, actually. In my experience, these front-heavy Audis go through front pads like there's no tomorrow, but rear pads have it much easier.
+Sam Sreca I have a 2001 Allroad, 174,000 miles and Arun is correct, I've gone through 7 sets of pads in the front and just now ready for my 3rd set in the rear only because I need calipers and might as well throw new rotors and pads on while I'm at it.
Amature
European cars are a bitch to work on, I went as far as trying to get a stupid hex key bolt in a confined spot where there wasn’t room for a wrench !
Ouch!!!, this was a painful video to watch... First of all, why are you using these heavy duty mechanical gloves... unnecessary. What about using a socket and a ratchet next time instead of 2 open end wrenches. Next time, remove the whole bloody caliper off. Finally those brakes pads did NOT need changing.They were still good.
just use a G-CLAMP INSTEAD OF THAT TOOL
Not if you are doing rear brakes, they need to be wound in.