How Good is B-12 Chemtool? Let's find out!
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2017
- B-12 Chemtool fuel injector carburetor cleaner in a gasoline engine. B12 Chemtool compared to Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO)? . Let's find out!
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I like how you added the side-by-side comparison pictures rather than just fading back and forth between the two, it made it easier to see the differences. Keep it up! :)
UnsulliedSpy, thank you for mentioning this! I'll continue to find ways to improve the videos! This recommendation came from those making comments! You guys are helping me a lot, so, thank you!
Yes I second the side by side! And I still like the larger full screen too ;-)
Steven, why the name change lol?!?! What’s up with the old one?
@@HughWoo Just has to do with how Google uses its information, I had to link this Google account with my work email and share docs with coworkers so I changed the name. My UA-cam account predates Google's ownership so some things are a little screwy.
this was done in 2017. Currently B-12 is half the cost of Seafoam. B-12 has toluene in it, that's the secret ingredient not acetone.
$6.49 NAPA. $4.24 Wally World.
B-12 chemtool $4.22 Amazon. I bought 2 cans. So cheap.
Is the b12 possible to use in the oil like sea foam.? Like 1 ounce per each quart of oil on the crankcase
@@cesarpenailillo6627yes
@@cesarpenailillo6627 Yes, immediately before oil change (like Seafoam).
B12 is powerful medicine...just don't let it sit in your system for too long. If you're taking a long trip where you'll use the whole tank of gas is best. I made the mistake of putting into a little used ranch vehicle. It scoured the inside of my fuel tank, ate up the float, and caused all kinds of problems that I'm still dealing with. I still use it, but only when it goes in and comes out quickly.
Thanks for the feedback.
Had the same problem many years ago never touch it again ! I’m talking 80’s on a 73 Vega . Pos i know.
Mixed it too strong
you are organized my friend, not all heroes wear capes, some store things in little jars.
Arlind, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
When doing pre-flight checks on small piston aircraft, pilots check the left and right magneto sets on the plane. If either of the sets runs rough we are taught to go to full power and lean the mixture. The idea is this heats up the engine and can burn deposits off a fouled plug (a common cause for the roughness). It'd be interesting to see if this process makes a noticeable difference in the rest of the deposits in this cylinder.
you are doing a great thing with these comparison tests. just have to say that i appreciate what you're doing and how you do it. thank you!
Jeff, Thank you for the positive comments! It's been a lot of fun thus far! More videos to come! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I think the tough thing with this one is that Berrymans isn’t the kind of treatment to do a soak like sea foam. It’s meant to be used over a long period by mixing with a full tank of gas in a car. Chris Fix has some videos on these too and had good success.
Thanks for the feedback.
just what i been waiting for boss man but i was looking for the original b12 chemtool not the combustion version I appreciate your videos brother thank you
Michael, Sorry I didn't use the original B-12. This product seemed to help the compression. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
After using a few products to clean an old boat gas tank, B-12 was the one that completely dominated the others. It completely eliminated the sludge from the tank!
Awesome videos!
Thank you
man I can watch your videos all day long
you do such a good job talking and explain what your doing very well .
I can't wait till your next video
cheers from the north👍👍👍
Jeremy, Thank you for the positive feedback! More videos underway! Thanks again!
This has been a very interesting series of videos. Thanks for taking the time to make them. Looking forward tot he water mist video as I would guess the steam would produce nice results but I've been proven wrong in my assumptions by your prior vids
Thanks a lot for going through the time and hassle to do this. And for having the know-how to test it. I was wondering this very thing.
Glad it was helpful!
So funny when I came across one of your old videos. You've come a long way. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much!
I really like that you've been paying attention to all the viewers' comments! I'm excited for the water mist video! Also will you be doing a torture test with a bottle of Lucas in a dry crankcase, or replacing the oil with Lucas entirely? I would like to see that!
I'd like to conduct a torture test, but viewers don't believe the test would be fair unless I used two new engines. I'm not in a financial position to do that. I can afford to test used engines, but there was great dissatisfaction with that. Lucas is a great product and I have an interesting test for it coming soon. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Keep up the great work! I find this stuff pretty interesting and look forward to seeing new uploads!
mytmousemalibu, Great to year from you! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Didn't look much differnt
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Looks aren't everything; check the compression numbers at 6:05
Yea, pretty much looked about the same... maybe a little dirtier.
You are right, looks are not everything, but what is causing the compression to increase. Piston and rings seal against the bore, removing crud will decrease compression (albeit marginally in this case). The compression is a direct cause of sealing the surfaces as well as the stroke etc. I can not see how anything can make the surfaces seal better. The results (IMHO) are, at best, marginal. I think there are to many variables to give any the thumbs up especially in the absence of any real (marked) changes in cleanliness.
Many things increase compression, or loss of compression. If rings are sticking then freeing them will improve compression. Also carbon or gunk causing valves to not seal well causes lost compression. Clean valves/seats/stems for proper seal will improve compression.
Thank you :) Sharing on my FB page/ Groups I'm still for the B12
You sure have come a long way in presentation Todd. This definitely feels more like a backyard video than your latest material.
Thanks!
I'm three years late but im slowly going through your videos. They're so educational.... im going to lobby to have your channel encorperated into the Canadian public education curriculum
Wow, what an honor to be considered! Thanks for watching.
My B-12 story might be of interest. After an entire winter of using my 10 year old Honda snowblower it started running rough. The dealer said bring it in for a carb replacement. I then remembered what I had heard on the Tom and Ray (Car Guys) radio show years earlier. They recommended ChemTool B-12. I bought the original B-12 and added about an ounce into the full gas tank, shook the machine to mix it, and started the engine. After running very rough for about 2 minutes it started to smooth out. 10 minutes later it ran like a new machine. That was 3 years ago and it’s running great. I have not had to use B-12 since the first time.
Thank you for this recommendation!
My Honda snowblower is now about 15 yo. Each fall I fill the tank with fresh gas then add 1/2 ounce B-12. The engine is run for 10 minutes to clean the carb of any gum or varnish. The Honda then runs perfectly all winter.
Honda clone had the same problem, surging due to the carb being gummed up over time, one tank and she runs like brand new. Keep in mind, I dumped a full can into the gallon-sized fuel tank, 25% B12 did the trick.
It's neat to see how your video's have changed over the years. It's good to know that even very old men can improve their game.
Thanks!
I can vouch for the performance improvement with Berryman B12 Chemtool. I have used the spray in the intake of several vehicles.
Example, my 1988 Crown Victoria 5.0efi was running rough and the idyl was higher than normal. I tried spraying the B12 in the intake and it made it run like when I first got it.
It helps to play with the throttle to keep it running as you spray intermittently.
Thanks for sharing.
your channel is severely under rated. I can't wait to see what you can do once you start getting more UA-cam revenue.
Brandon, thank you very much for the positive comment!
after I watched your vids I used the seafoam. I always ran it in the tank but never in my oil before a change. I also cleaned the top end with the seafoam spray. no joke my 2000 gmc 350 vortec came back to life!!!! I had a tic that went away and man can she burn some tires again. I got the old truck from my dad when he purchased a new car and it was a good looking always in doors high milage well maintained truck but it was tired. now it runs like new! can't thank you enough. 19mpg can't be wrong!
I used Sea Foam on the motorcycle to help with the difficult cold starting and loss of power. While it did a good job, I was still having some cold start problems. My mechanic recommend this product. I let the tank get down to near empty, added several ounces of this product and then I filled the bike with ethanol free gas. Cured the cold start and loss of power issues. I have now switched over to ethanol free gas whenever possible.
Thanks for sharing!
I've used ethanol fuel in my boat and it's still running after 23 years. I think it has a lot to do with keeping them running throughout the year - like a car. A mechanic told me he won't use non-e fuel because it doesn't sell as much at the stations and sits much longer. Just my two cents.
After the problems of poor starting and acceleration with non ethanol fuel, I switched back to ethanol high test gasoline. I used B12 to clean the fuel system and it blew much stuff out of the exhaust that it cleaned up in my tank. B60 does a better job. I now add an octane booster each time that I fill up my tank for extra performance. I ride my bike all year to prevent the fuel from getting stale.
It looks like this was the same engine you used for seafoam test, so seafoam removed the easy to remove carbon build up and then what was left behind was hard to remove so the Berrymans did not appear to have that impressive of results.
Curtis, Great point! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
What I found to be the best for eliminating carbon buildup on my Briggs and Stratton 4.5 horse is Purple Power. I pulled the head, soaked it, and then used steel wool and occasionally a flat head screw driver to break up the big pieces of carbon. There is virtually no carbon left on the head, piston, and valves. On the piston and valves, however, I used brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner along with the steel wool and screwdriver. I just left the piston at TDC with both valves closed. You have to be careful with the screwdriver though, as it is easy to gouge the surface of the head and other parts. After cleaning, I noticed metal shavings from the steel wool got between the piston and cylinder. Before moving the piston, I took a magnet around the circumference of the piston to pull the metal shavings out.
Thank you for this recommendation!
I've used Berryman's B-12 for 40 years (I'm 53, had a lawn business as a kid and always used it in my mowers) it's cheap, $3.49 a can at Walmart, and is an excellent fuel system cleaner, "Tune up in a can", I put a can in each of my cars every 4 to six months, eliminates moisture in the tank and keeps injectors clean. Have used SeaFoam too, honestly could not tell the difference and Berryman's is cheaper.
That's interesting, Thanks.
That stuff also cleans the Rings of the piston which gives it the Compression...
Berryman B-12 is some serious cleaning power. Get that stuff on your hands and it can sting..
Its the best by a Long Shot
Thanks for the feedback.
subscribed. you have a pretty scientific approach to evaluate it. I like it! Thank you.
Mike, thank you for subscribing! More videos underway! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I noticed that the cold compression was higher than the hot engine compression. I thought that was kind of odd. What can cause that? And thats pretty uncommon right?
B12 and ZMax are the only two additives I've used on my 2004 F150. I put the whole can and guess on having 20 gal of fuel and go on a whole tank road trip like Hwy 5 using a set speed on cruise control, then a fresh oil change while still hot and then Mobil 1 and ZMax. F150 now has 176k miles and it runs very smooth. I think it's more that the B12 cleans my injectors more than anything. Note, when truck is at a red light or stop sign it still idles very smooth, the radio antenna does not move, it just sits there after all these years. Thanks for doing the B12 test, I just wish it got rid of more carbon in the head.
Thank you
Gary, Impressive! I agree that B-12 would do a great job cleaning injectors! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Seafoam $6 and b12 is $3 where I live. I use the b12 to help clean up the gunk from sitting motorcycle carbs.
I was gonna say, b12 is amazing carb cleaner
@@ford300rippergarage is b12 more potent than seafoam for carb cleaning
@@wazup3333 in my experience yes, breaks down varnish and gum very effectively
@@ford300rippergarage so if an engine doesnt want to start because the carbs are gunked up, what % chance will it be able to clean it and be able to run if dumping straight b12 into the gasoline tank and priming it into the carb?
@@wazup3333 better chance than sefoam, but It better to remove the card and submerge it overnight
This channel has become one of my favourites! God bless brother! Water all the way hahaha🙌🏻🙌🏻
LOL! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Great video as always. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
I was wondering, have you tried the Walmart versions of the Lucas oil additives and fuel injection cleaner?
It’s garbage spend the extra money
I know a motorcycle group tried the Walmart version of LOS and the Walmart version was garbage, they had to stop using it during the testing because it was doing the opposite of what it was meant to.
+Project Farm where did you but the B 12 ? I get it for like 3.99 or 4.99 and it doesn't come in a box like yours. I seen a guy test the flammability of all these and B12 is the most flammable and melts Styrofoam real quick.
Steve's Auto OSTROGOTH I agree. maybe he got the wrong stuff. Walmart has it for $3.99 link: www.walmart.com/ip/B-12-Chemtool-Carburetor-Fuel-System-and-Injector-Cleaner/16817404
I purchased it from Amazon. I bought the cleaning kit, which is why it cost so much more. It would have been cheaper to just purchase a can. Per the MSDS, it's 80-90% acetone. It seems to make sense that it would be more flammable than MMO and Seafoam. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Steve's Auto OSTROGOTH q
He bought the one for Combustion chamber not the fuel additive. Been using the additive that ur speaking of over 30 years works great.
Boregaurd, Per the MSDS, it has a lot of acetone in it. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Not many videos out there like this. Interesting. Thumbs up!
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Great series sir!
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I'm going to have to say Marvel Mystery oil. 10/10 I looked at the pics of the sea foam. Also the B12. And they both looked about the same. As I said I'm going to go with the marvel Mystery oil. With the marvel Mystery oil the head and the piston and valves was a lot cleaner with the marvel Mystery oil.
A test I see no one doing would be to test the effects of the seafoam, MMO and B12 on engine seals and lines. Take a piece of neoprene hose, tygon and maybe some silicone line and soak them in the additives. See which disolves which first. My bet is the B12 will just eat through whatever goes in it. I've seen it hit nitrile gloves and watched them pretty much melt. It might clean carbon a BIT better but I'm not willing to risk the seals, gaskets and lines for it. Keep in mind it is much more than just the soft parts inside the engine but also the whole fuel system. I just have a baaaadddd feeling about using such a strong solvent in a car's fuel system. Just my 2 cents though.
Yes, you are correct. B12 Chemtool has a high percentage of acetone in it per the MSDS. Great thoughts! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
@@ProjectFarm I have a 95 Del Sol Honda civic.. Do these engines have sensitive parts that B12 might Damage? Thanks for any help! Peace!
I test on cars but you're amazing
These head to head comparisons are fun and informative. Could you try ATF sometime? Keep up the good work.
Schon, Yes, here's the ATF test. It seemed to work well. ua-cam.com/video/wT0TTGO2CUY/v-deo.html
seafoam...it's amazing. keep making these videos. ..you're the man! I like your unbiased opinion
Gideon, Thank you for the positive feedback! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
can't wait for you water mist video
fadi, It's coming soon. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Hey I have a car I've ran Lucas upper cylinder lube/cleaner almost since new, when I looked in the cylinders with a harbor freight cam the tops of the pistons was still shining, car is a 2013 turbo Chevy sonic with 145k miles, wanna pull the head off for me or with me?
enjoying you vids. thanks for the tips tricks & reviews. have you tried any z-max products tho?
The compression with b12 looks good. Is it just the video or does it look like more carbon was added with the b12? To me personally it looks like MMO takes the prize so far. They have a new MMO out that comes in a smaller bottle and it's suppose to be a newer formula and looks to me like it's more geared towards adding it to the gas and or intake as oppose to the crankcase. I know when it comes to letting it soak say the valves or something b12 outperforms seafoam amazingly by videos I've seen. maybe try a test with letting the head sit in said products for a couple of days.
It looks to me as though some carbon was removed but not as much as MMO and Seafoam. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I use Trinitrotoluene on all my small eng. repairs. it does wonders on carbon if you can find the block afterwards lol
Travis, thanks for the product recommendation! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Yeah, that stuff works wonders! no carbon left after you use that!
Travis Aspin lol TNT!!!
Travis, you are going to put Project Farm on a ATF and FBI list..
Powerful results!
Does the b12 encapsulate water like heet, because Seafoam does not?
Thanks for excellent videos.
Ah yeah... I'm waiting for some tests with ethanol and E85. 😀👍
My cars uses both fuels and it's usually cleaner when they are using ethanol (instead of 87 octane unleaded gasoline) for a longer period, even when working with a richer mixture (instead of lambda 1.00 tuned by the narrowband oxygen sensor, I use 0.86 on couple track day cars).
I'm looking forward to testing fuels! I drive a lot. So, it could impact which type of fuel I buy in the future. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I have used b12 chemtool for 50 years. Best stuff around for many purposes. Sad to say it was 1.39 in 1980, can't afford it any more because of greedy companies. Manufacturing cost is not much more than it was in the 80's. Plus the american dollar has become monopoly money. Liked your videos! Thanks-
Thank you!
Ah yes, all because of "greedy companies" running a business.
EDIT: The B12 Chemtool you're using is not the stuff I've used before. The stuff I've used before is as thin and clear as gasoline, and it will eat through a plastic bag in seconds. The stuff you got must be a "companion product" using the B12 Chemtool name that is designed to compete more directly with Seafoam.
In my experience, B12 Chemtool is better for cleaning varnish and gum out of the fuel system, but it can't do much for fully-burned carbon deposits found inside the combustion chambers; for that you need something like Seafoam that can soak-in and stay-put for long enough to soften the deposits. It's possible that B12 Chemtool might be good for oil system cleaning, but it's so volatile and flammable I'd be afraid to try.
Also, B12 Chemtool should be mixed directly into the gasoline, not metered using a separate device, because it's just a super-concentrated version of the detergents that are added to pump gas.
Yes the label looks different and he said it was a little expensive.
The stuff I use is real cheap at Walmart.
The stuff you're talking about is in the background on the right. That is the most effective.
I just subscribed so I'm trying to get caught up on all your videos
Thank you!
please sir see how long a 4 stroke engine will last use 2 stroke oil in the crank case i have always wondered if its possible to do
I didn't see a difference with the B12. To me the piston and combustion chamber looked the same if not dirtier than with the others. It did improve the compression but that was all I actually saw. I'm leaning more towards Sea Foam or MMO.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I was thinking the same thing. The Berryman's actually looked worse afterwards to me.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I'd rather have greater compression than clean piston. higher compression means more thorough burn of fuel and more power.
That’s because your blind
I'm with mmo but I enjoyed watching this video. I look forward to the water study.
Ivan Man, Yes, MMO did great! Thanks for watching the videos and commenting!
I just want to say great job on the video. The product that I would use in my engine is marvel mystery oil.
Thank you very much! MMO is a great selection.
Great channel! Very informative! 🙂👍🏻
Bought some B12 chemtool today to run through old mower! Enjoyed this video!
Thank you kindly!
I always wondered if b12 works that good because it uses acetone as one of its constituants.
It's the only additive using it as far as I know.
Could it be possible to try acetone as a fuel additive in a future video ?
I used 5% acetone in my car and it uncloged my catalytic converter quite well (my car was running rich for a long time, so it was some black soot clogging it).
I don't know what it did on the engine in general, the only thing I know for sure, is my exhaust restriction is gone.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Acetone is the swiss army knife of fluids.
From time to time I add an ounce of acetone to the fuel tank on my Jeep and both my Harleys. It works well as an injector cleaner. I've had "experts" tell me that acetone ruins the o-rings, but I've never had that issue. My Jeep is going strong at 256,000 miles, and my 2000 HD has 75k.
@@im2yys4u81 Acetone do tend to ruin rubber parts.
But at such low concentrations it's not a concern.
I had one pretty dirty fuel system on one of my cars. So I put 2l of acetone for 30l of gasoline.
It took only 100 km to begin to see the difference. The engine was a lot snappier after that.
It never reverted back to the very sad engine I had before.
I rebuilt the engine some time after, out of curiosity.
What I found is the top ring was cleaned of pretty well.
The valves stems were very dirty, but way less than before the acetone.
The intake manifold was absolutely spotless! (it's a throttle body injected car, so the entire manifold was cleaned. And just before the injector, It did absolutely nothing, so I have some kind of before and after)
I haven't checked the exhaust before, but the sound it made changed quite a bit after the acetone. And at disassembly, I thought it was quite clean for how carboned up the intake valves were. (looked like a direct injection engine with too little oil changes... Packed solid!)
What it didn't clean: the oil control rings, and the bottom of the second rings.
They were in a very sad shape!
With a lot of hard, crystalised carbon.
Overall, I was pretty impressed by my acetone shock treatment.
Compression wise, it went up to 100 psi cold and 110 hot.
Before it was at 90 something and varied quite a bit.
Vacuum was raised considerably!
After the rebuild, still breaking in, I got 120 psi both cold and hot.
That's a pretty low compression engine 8,95:1 with a, factory, very overlappy cam, so don't worry for the pretty low numbers.
@@ElectronikHeart I agree that TOO MUCH acetone is catastrophic to rubber o-rings, that's why I specified one ounce to a full tank. I use half of that on my 6.5 gal motorcycle tank. I don't do it every tankfull either. Usually every 3-5k miles. My HD is spotless inside the engine, but I also eliminated the system that pumps crankcase fumes into my cold air intake which contributes to the carbon build up problem. I vent my crankcase fumes into a hose with a filter on the end.
Looks like MMO removed the most from cylinder head, top piston, and valves. More ranger videos pls!
I'll see if I can put together another Ranger video! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
YES! more ranger video ..
Seafoam! Seafoam rules! Nice video, keep up the awesome work man. Can't wait for the next video!
Thank you very much for the positive comment.
I used to watch your vids every Monday and when you included them during the week. Your demeanor has changed. I liked the vids earlier than later.
Thanks for the feedback!
Marvel mystery oil for the win! Walmart always has the best price also!
MMO did a great job! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I think that is highly misleading. The MMO looks like it did a better job because that engine had more gunked up oil in it to begin with. MMO is really just a neutral oil with mineral spirits and a shot of dichlorobenzene solvent. Sure it's effective, and more importantly cost-effective, but that Chemtool stuff is WAY stronger; just look at the MSDS.
I'm thinking the MMO won from your before/after pics. It doesn't look like the chemtool really did that much.
Yes, MMO did a great job! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
yeah i mean other than raising the engines compression! just because it doesn't LOOK better doesn't mean it not doing better job. what you didn't see was the crap it flushed out of the rings giving them a better seal.
The compression test charts are valuable. Thanks.
noticus, I like them too. It adds some science to this testing. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Great series thanks
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I'd like to see you try running 50% acetone or just the famous water mist they used to for cars back in the day to clean valves from carbon and buildup.
Yes, I'll be releasing a video using a water mist soon. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Seconded. I'd suggest 50% acetone in the gas tank - but I'm not sure what it would do to the carburetor float, fuel lines or gaskets.
that's been tested by an individual working for Toyota, I forget his exact name but he did fuel testing for the government on jet engines, then was hired by Toyota to test out what concentration of ethanol to gasoline was the best for mileage.. he discovered 0 was the best number then started testing other things.. acetone was one of the few additives he tested that yielded a mild improvement, he then went onto soaking all the engine related gaskets in acetone to see if they would be eaten... and they all passed with flying colors.. as long as they are not abs plastic acetone shouldn't touch them.
I see - I understand it's not good for catalytic converters? I met a lady once while business networking who was selling bottles of fluid with the claim that it would increase your gas mileage by x %. I told her I knew what was inside her bottle (if that claim was true). I don't understand why people sell knick-knacks/knives/pyramid schemes rather then investing in more sincere business ventures.
Dollar Tree oven cleaner in a spray can will take stink off of poo , but the fumes would most likely kill everyone in a 2 miles radius.
LOL! I agree that it'll work, but I'm concerned about the safety aspect. There are ways for me to avoid breathing the stuff, but worried someone in the viewing audience might get hurt. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Oven cleaner will eat aluminum
Just curious... When you remove the heads, do you always use a new head gasket? So long as the gasket is not damaged I just spray it with permatex copper hi-temp spray gasket maker. It is good to over 500 deg. F. (does NOT work on graphene sided gaskets. only the dry fiber or metal clad (which I have installed on all my equipment.)
I like your approach and reuse the old gaskets as long as they are in good shape. Thanks for commenting.
You sir, are the youtube test king! Very impressive. Thumbs up. Is there a product you might suggest for a p0420 catalyst insufficiency code?
Yes a new catalytic converter
Another great review by project farm, thank you for sharing, awesome job!!!😊
Thanks and you are welcome!
I would stick to a wire cup wheel on a drill .. and save a ton of money. For the little cleaning that all of the chemicals have shown the wire cup wheel is my go to based soly on price... Not judging just tstating what i would do ..
Scott, Yes, for mowers I agree. Hoping we can find an additive that can really do well for use in automobiles, which are more difficult to disassemble. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I did how ever like the results with your ranger and the ticking lifter
think man. He is using a flat head air cooled engine to test with because it is the easiest to disassemble. His results are applicable to engines that you definitely wouldn't want to disassemble to manually clean.
I use one of those scrapers. It doesnt leave the small ridges on the piston like a cup wheel
kraft zion Exactly!!!!
Seafoam doesn't work very well. Marvel Mystery Oil does though and its dirt cheap. To me it looks like MMO is the winner so far. I would only use MMO or Amsoil Powerfoam and Amsoil P.i. in larger engines.
Yes, Seafoam and MMO are both great! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
No, Seafoam isn't great.
Sorry, I misread your post. Thanks again for watching the video and commenting!
seafoam works well for its original purpose, keeping old boat engines from building up a ton of carbon, because they are usually ran for long periods of time at a constant rpm.
Boodieman72 it's hard to beat Power Foam!
I used Marvel Mystery Oil in my Nissan Maxima. Some in the gas on occasion, and replacing a quart in the engine oil every oil change. I put 320k on that car and it didn't burn a bit of oil. Keep in mind I also used full synthetic every change every 5K miles like clockwork.
This is very impressive! Thanks for commenting!
A bottle of B-12 Chemtool is usally half the price of Seafoam, pretty sure the viewers meant the carb/fuel system/injector cleaner not this "combustion cleaning kit"..
Thanks for the feedback.
Notice how much faster the engine was able to achieve compression after being cleaned. I’d say that’s also a plus!
Great point! Thank you
nope not impressed by that b12 at all. seems like it did nothing.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Just an anecdote, but my 2003 F-150 had serious and persistent surging and stalling problems. It regularly stopped at stop lights. I replaced the idle control valve ($80) w/o effect. On the recommendation of the CarQuest man, I added a can of the Berryman ChemTool B-12 to a quarter-full tank just before a 130-mile drive. VERY impressive results, and a lovely idle, with the problem 90% fixed. Count me a definite believer. I plan a second application to make it purr.
Impressive results!
MMO is my choice. I like the side by side format. Really enjoy the videos.
Sam, MMO is a great product! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
SeaFoam.
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MMO
I second SeaFoam.
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seafoam, always. best bang for the buck. thanks for the vid!
MMO seems to be a more bang for your buck product.
MMO is a great product, especially considering the price! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I've got a variety of experiences using Chemtool B-12, in different engines, off and on over more than a decade. 1. Most miraculous visual experience seen is running it in a perhaps 13 year old, second owner lawn tractor for perhaps 2 hours at a time. No difference first hour or so. Time in high heat--more than reaching working temperature for a "hot soak" --is where definate affect is seen. At two hours or so used for heavy mower cutting--perhaps axle height vegetation or higher--the muffler began billowing carbon-deposit powder, not smoke but powder. High temperature with hours of time is a much better indication of how fuel system cleaners work than I've yet seen on UA-cam. 2. I wouldn't use Chemtool-12 in an aluminum engine lawnmower--seems to destroy the metal from combustion--destroyed an engine within a few mowings. Maybe it'd be ok at lower dosage mix than I used. 3. Plugs catalytic converters, at least with the dosage I used.
Thanks for sharing.
One additive I would like to see is Liqui moly(a.k.a Lubro moly) MTX carburator cleaner. It's added to either the fuel or to the carburator itself, and the engine would run on it until it is over. It claims it cleans valves, plugs, pistons, combustion chamber. I tried it, the mixed in gas way, and the spark plug got slightly cleaner, one full tank of fuel in my lawnmower, witch is about 1qt. I did't take the engine apart, but it seem to run a little smoother and start a little better. This machine only has abou 75hrs of use and a year and a half. (BS 4.50 Flat head). I also looked through the spark plug hole and it seem very slightly cleaner, I mean just slightly noticeable, almost nothing at all, but again... 1qt....
I also heard the high end synthetic 2stroke motor oil at a 200:1 ratio in fuel can clean intake valves and the intake itself. Never tried it, but heard some good things about it.
B12 look like it was worst after
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right
looks like snake oil to me
Paul, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Paul no it works I have done my own test it’s very good product
looking forward to the Z-Max test. i use that stuff and i love it. after using it in all my cars over the last 10 years, i have a good idea of how it works. the results are not immediately noticed. it soaks into the metal when the engine is fully warmed up, using the oil as a carrier. it's not an additive in that sense. i use it every other month and i can feel it working. it takes a few days to "soak in" over a few hot/cold cycles. once soaked in, it gradually wicks out creating additional lubrication until it's gone. the problem with Z-Max is that the benefits felt after it gets going don't last long. it's 2-4 days until it's notable, and gone after a week. which does suck for something that costs about $30 a pop. something that makes it a little easier is that all the formulations are the same product with different color dye. there's fuel, transmission, and engine bottles, but they are all the same thing. the engine formula is 24 oz and costs $26-$30. the transmission is 12 oz for $10. i buy 2 of the transmission bottles and save. autozone carries the small bottles and orielly's does too. i'm interested to see how you test it, because it's not like the other products you have compared so far.
i have personally verified through Z-Max customer support that all the products labeled for different engine and drivetrain components are just one product that's colored and bottled differently. they also make a similar product for use in airplane propeller engines called "Av-Blend". been around forever and it's proven to reduce wear and increase efficiency. if it's beneficial to engines that can not fail, it's a good product. both products are just highly refined mineral oil and both products do a great job. Z-Max went to war with the FCC over accusations against them lying to consumers about how effective Z-Max is.. and won. they showed proof in a court of law that it does what they say it does. Z-Max is one of the only additives that survived the attack on snake oils by the FCC, because it actually works.
oh man.. can you tell i am a Z-Max fan? lol i am going to shut up now.
Jeff, this is great information! I had no idea that Z-max had such a short life! It sounds as though it's a great product!
Actually, I'm not impressed by any product tested. They'd done almost no cleaning at all. Try a Polyetheramine based product, they are more modern technology at cleaning fuel system, not cc. They all suck!
Oscar, Great suggestion! I'll be testing fuel system cleaners soon. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
You know what I think? I think none of them work at all.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Every video I'm just begging you to go in there with a damp rag and just wipe them down. A lawnmower is so conducive to that kind of cleaning, I know. On a car, maybe it's more difficult but I think it'd be interesting to see how all these different kinds of treatments compared to 15 minutes of elbow grease.
Aaron, You're right that it is definitely faster and better to use a damp rag with solvent to clean these parts. I'm having fun testing the claims of those who make these additives to see if they will be effective. If they'll clean the inside of a mower engine, they should be able to clean any engine. Always great to read your comments and hope all is well!
Thank you for all this testing! They don’t look like they do too much but empty your wallet.
@@doorgoo yeah. Looks can be deceiving.
Interesting, in the side by side comparisons (which are an improvement, thanks for doing it this way) The MMO did a much much better job of actually cleaning the stuff, the Seafoam looked worse (look at the lettering and you can make out more detail in the before, while the B12 did absolutely nothing. The compression results tell a different tale, but the MM engine already had good compression... My question is why don't you just mix it with the gas and let it affect the system that way (i.e. dump it into the tank after the engine is warmed up. then do you hotsoak. Continue with the testing love watching the videos!!!
MMO is a great product. Thank you
The end shows you really consider your viewers comments, which will lead to more subscribers to your awesome channel. I hope the water misting method will show different results. I use seafoam in my lawnmower's gas and can tell the difference in the power recouped back when mowing in high grass last year. Perhaps it does a good job cleaning out the carb and valve deposits. B12 looks promising as well!
Thank you very much for the comments! I agree that Seafoam may not appear to be doing much on the cylinder head surface but it seems to help clean around the valves, piston rings, and carb leading to improved performance. The engine seemed to run better after B12. Thanks again!
Another product to add to the shopping list is Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant. It's like an oil rather than a volatile acetone/alcohol base. It's usually put into the gas tank rather than directly injected, so it will not fall under than same standards as the direct injection tests. It's not supposed to work instantly, but over time with long runs it helps with injector/carb cleaning and valve seating for compression. It's very cheap for the amount of "treatments" you get, but I always put more than what it calls for. Would like to see its results! Thanks.
Great suggestion! This makes sense! Something with a low flash point will burn off before less volatile products, such as MMO or Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant! Thanks again!
I dont see much difference,,,,,
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I've been useing Seafoam for a long time in everything . An every so often or especially if I get a little hickup in a carb on a mower or vehicle or one that is fuel injected that has a cut up or slight misfire . But I decided to try the Berryman B12 and wow that stuff works just as good or if not even better cause it completely took away the stumble and cut up problems on take off or when you rev it and it had a werid idle that just wasn't smooth as it should be on my S10 .
So I'll definitely be using this stuff alot more on everything I own
Thanks for the feedback.
Kudos for the side by sides!
Thanks! It was a great suggestion! I'll be doing this in all future videos! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Another good vid mate. Just wondering where are you getting all those mowers from.😂
LOL! I'm buying these locally for these tests. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Great videos! Was the water mist test ever performed?
I have used OMC Engine Tuner and Mercury Quicksilver Power Tune with pretty good results. Even use them as a bore cleaner for my rifles. Would like to see them compared to the other cleaners.
Thanks for the recommendation!
if we go by looks the MMO knocked off more carbon build up, i wonder if double teaming on the same engine would yield greater results, such as using the MMO to knock the carbon off, then coming in with the B12 to help with compression. Another thing is, the compression increase is lowest on the MMO (even decreasing when hot) even though it appears to have removed the most carbon, could this mean that the others are moving the carbon build up into areas that aren't perfectly sealed whereas the MMO is straight up removing the carbon?
This is a great point. Thanks for commenting!
Have you tried the "professional" BG VIA with Fuel Injector and Combustion Chamber Cleaner?
There are a lot of mechanics that have this in their shops and they recommend having this service done between 75K-100K miles.
Love the baby food jars. I used them too.
Christopher, Yes, the previous owner of my home did a terrific job organizing. It really helps! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!