Just did mine today this video was not only helpful but very clear thank you for making it easy for first timers like me did it all alone thanks to you !!
GREAT video, crystal clear shots in a way where you can actually see what is going on. Fantastic!! It ALMOST makes me look forward to doing this job...
I did mine on the weekend. Watched your video again and again before touching anything on my car. Anyway I went to the junkyard pulled out this canister, solenoid and the fuel cap. Bought them all for $26. Went home did the same thing on my civic. Removed the old fuel cap, canister and the soleniod and put in the used parts from the junkyard. It took a while to get it but at the end I got it...after the install was done I did the reset through my code reader. And today I drove over 300kms...guess what??? The light didn't come back again!!!! Thank you so much for the help you have the best video out there 😘😍
I had code P1457 EVAP Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister Area) on my son’s 2002 Civic Ex. I order the part on Amazon because the OEM was more than I wanted to spend. I had a minor challenge removing the small hose and clamp attached to the solenoid valve where that metal bar was so I removed the other end of said hose which made it very easy to remove and reinstall the charcoal filter. I also changed the gas cap because the gasket was cracked. When I reconnected the negative line to the battery no more check engine light! Over 275,000 miles and this car has lots of life left! We are original owners. Thanks for this very clear video. I need to now cancel my appointment with the mechanic since we couldn’t wait for the 2 week lead time.
Glad you were able to get this all sorted out. It can be a bit crammed in the back of the gas tank area where this component is located so as long as you were able to get it out, replace the faulty part and get it all reinstalled properly that you're golden. Did the CEL go out and stay off once you replaced everything?
@@piercedasian Yes the CEL went off automatically when I reconnected the battery. 1 day update. The car ran great last night and to and from work. While I was bringing the car to my son the car went back to limp mode and the CEL popped up. Back to the drawing board. Any suggestions out there I can look into before I cancel my appointment with the mechanic?
Awesome, video man. I just got done doing this job using just your video as guidance. I had to replace the EVAP canister and just did the vent solenoid at the same time as preventative maintenance. Keep up the great work man.
Thank you so much for this video. You're a God sent. You're videos have saved my life so many times. God bless you. Thank you again always. Stephen from so cal
Dude, I got to tell you that is one of the best videos and most helpful videos I've ever seen on UA-cam. You even gave the part number for the screws which was a blessing. Thank you so much it helped tremendously.
I'm glad you liked the video. I find a lot of UA-camrs make a bunch of CRAP content that doesn't TEACH their viewers the "WHYS" on things have to be taken apart or how they work. Blows my mind that people are willing to trust some guy that half shows them how to change or repair something that would have deleterious side effects by doing the procedure incorrectly. Fortunately in this video, you can't really mess things up but nonetheless I'm glad YOU see value in what I do and the effort put into these videos. Thank you for stopping by.
I replaced both the canister and the vent solenoid on 2003 Civic EX but had to drill out the screw that held the hose bracket, so I could reuse that bracket on the new canister. thank you for the video.
I like how you explain everything step by step. Thank you I had the same code and took it to a shop and still had the code. I will save money now thanks 😊
I can’t thank you enough for a clear concise tutorial. I just changed this out today. I even got inpatient with one of the screws (didn’t wait long enough for rust penetrate) and stripped it a little. I used your vice grip idea and got it removed. I almost chickened out, but am so glad I didn’t.
you're most welcome! Sometimes in the repair world all that is needed to tackle an otherwise painful job is patience and perseverance. I hate rusted screws but living where I do unfortunately exposes cars to plenty of corroding salt. The type of penetrating oil you use DOES matter and I have found that liquid wrench and sometimes a bit of heat (on non meltable or flammable parts) seems to do the trick in MANY cases. WD 40 is useless and KROIL is waaaay overpriced and works no better than liquid wrench.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!! What a GREAT VIDEO you produced! IT HELPED SO MUCH! I was able to fix it today and i reset the engine light! Will have to see if it works or not but your video gave the confidence to do it!! So CHEERS MATE!
Thanks for making this video! I just replaced all this on my 2005 Civic and your video was very helpful! It kept me from throwing tools all over the garage! :)
Excellent video, once of the best DIY I think I've seen. Your tip on using the Vice-Grips on the screws definitelysaved me a ton of time and sanity. Took less than an hour to do this. I did have access to a lift which added to my time savings.
Glad you liked the video. You're a lucky person to have access to a lift.... I use a quick jack and that helps immensely but is a bit of a pain to setup.
Thank you! Once I was able to get the initial 12mm bolt off everything else was easy. Didn't need the vice grips, just moved the screws from side to side to loosen and get penetrating oil to all components; unscrewed easily. You made this super easy and saved me a lot of money at the repair shop. Superb video! :)
I think it's funny that I'm coming back to you a second time after you helped me replace my rear window wiring. Having the same issues. So that solenoid is $60, but I can get a used Charcoal Canister with the solenoid for $80. So just $20 more, but probably a lot more work. Dunno what I should do. My car has gotten that code twice this week, but the car still drives pretty good. I just am running slightly lean, but not lean enough to trip the CEL for that. I have replaced the fuel pump, throttle body, and O2 sensor recently trying to get rid of that higher long term fuel trim, but it hasn't helped.
Just did my wife's 2005 Honda Civic Lx was helpful, and your tutorial was on point. But, unfortunately, when I took the EVAP Vent solenoid out, it looked like someone had taken it out before because a sleeve on where the nut goes was missing on the sleeve where the screw goes to fasten on. So I went to AutoZone, but they don't carry any kits for sleeves. So I improvised and used an adhesive, hoping that would hold as I couldn't afford a new canister.
Thank you for making this. 2004 Civic sedan base with 156k on the clock. I thought the CEL was possibly the gas cap, but the code reader says EVAP code. I have to double check the code#. This is an important Daily Driver that can't go down 😂. It doesn't have any rust, as it doesn't get driven in snow.
wow that's cool to know that you've got a 7th gen that is likely in minty shape. While the 7th gen was never my favorite generation of car that I have to admit ours has been very trouble free and we've been blessed to not have any real issues with it aside from a slightly slippy automatic tranny that is common on these cars. 375, 000kms and still going strong. She's showing a tiny bit of rust on the body that I probably will get to this summer to slow down or try to at least stop to make it last us another 5-6 years before we really go down the path of car replacement.
@@piercedasian thanks..now for the follow-up. It I double checked the code, it was p1456, the gas cap code. Both say EVAP, just in different places. I'm the 3rd owner, my sister got it from a coworker that lived in Washington DC. She only got the car as a way to get to the airports. Barely any miles when my sister got it. Then she gave it to me for a birthday present. I got a cap from a Honda dealership to be sure it would work. eBay seems to sell cheap junk that often fail.
I agree with the person under me, this is just such a well done job, both the recording of this vid, and the actual job you did on this Honda. awesome man! That code just came up on my Honda tonight while i was driving home from work. Damn man and i am suppose to be driving to PA tomorrow morning. ugh LIFE lol can i still drive the car like this or no? Thanks
Well I guess I know what I’ll be doing in the next week or so. Thanks a lot this was excellent! I liked and subscribed I figure it’s just a minimum I can do.
Thanks for the sub! Best tip is to get a good quality penetrating oil (WD40 is not penetrating in my opinion). Get some liquid wrench or PB Blaster soak those screws down, give them a tap with a hammer and a twist with a screwdriver and more penetrating fluid and removal at that point should be a walk in the park.
Great video, detailed explanation of how to replace purge valve. please be careful with jack stands they are known to fail, always use a backup like a floor jack.
Hello people, I had this problem years back. Did a smoke test at pep boys it came out no leaks. Spend about 700 at dealership to fix the problem and code still came back on. They replaced the solenoid in the rear and replaced the 80 amp fuse in front hood of the car. So finally the last solution I looked up replacing the pcv value and it was leaking oil. I think it solved the issue. I saw a video replacing pcv by youtube Gilbert. Hope this helps
So while trying to remove one of those screws the insert came out of the plastic canister not wanting to spend 150 on a new canister I heated up the insert got the screw out of it and then epoxied the insert back into the canister and bought new screws. Also if you need to clean up the threads on either the screws or the inserts or if you need to buy new screws the screws are M5
yeah sometimes the screws just jam us so badly that you end up tearing out the insert in the canister. You did exactly what I would've done and expoxied the threads back into the canister. Glad you got it all fixed up and hopefully you coated the screw with some anti seize to prevent future seizing of the screw.
Thank you for the great video ! Do you know where I can find the hose replacement for all lines and mounting bracket ? I am worried of tears / breaks since I live north of the US with lots of snow ( rusty cars)
2003 RSX here. Oddly enough replacing that, the purge solenoid on the throttle body and doing a smoke test which revealed no leaks still hasn't fixed anything. Got a new OEM gas cap too. Still says there is a leak even though there visibly isn't one. Help?
Great video. Should I buy the charcoal canister and the vent valve separately to assemble it to make the job easier so I save myself from taking off those rusted screws? I was thinking of buying the canister and the vent valve, then assemble it, and removing the old canister and installing the new canister with the new vent valve already assembled. Is that a good idea?
sorry for my super late reply. It's really up to you. I don't like replacing parts that don't need replacing. I think you should try to remove the rusted screws using the method outlined here. Worst case is that if it doesn't come out then you can simply buy the canister after the fact and then fix it. The canister alone at Honda Canada's dealerships is SUPER expensive so that's why I opted to reuse what I could.
Hey appreciate you sharing this. I had the same code popping up on my 2003 civic lx, just switched it out yesterday with the Dorman part. Those two screws were very rusted on mine as well, I bought 2 new ones and put everything back together. Seems like I'm having better fuel economy after test driving it this morning, and still no check engine light.
I didn’t go to a website, I called a Honda dealership. They’re cheap, I believe I just told them what the screws were for and they were able to find them, I don’t think I had a part #
Awesome video. I had a question though- this code came up on my Honda the other day, do I just need to replace the valve or should I also replace the canister? Thank you in advance!
hmm, that is no good. You can either buy a used charcoal canister OR get the threaded inserts off the rusted screws and then epoxy the inserts back to the canister (relatively easy to do).
Thanks for the clear video. I'm looking at a 1999 Honda CR-V w/128,000 miles. The owner is has been very straightforward thus far and has taken a photo of the P1457 code on his scanner which would indicate that the EVAP needs replacement which led me to your video. If that P1457 has been active for some time would that have caused additional damage to the vehicle? Could that code be an indicator of other issues? Thanks again for the video and the advice on ordering he part.
Having a P1457 code won't really cause other issues other than you polluting the environment ever so slightly more. The issue with a P1457 code is that you could have leaks elsewhere in your evaporative emission system (leaky fuel filler neck, cracked pipes and seals). The P1457 code in my particular case is VERY common due to the fact that the car is quite old AND there is salt used in our area and corrosion will eat metal parts away that causes a leak as where I pointed out in my video. It will truly depend on where the leak is on your car but an evaporative emission leak alone won't damage anything else.
I replace mine with an original Honda part and the gas cap and I still get a 1457. I took the original one down a couple times cleaned it up rust free perfect condition 100,000 miles finally said I'm going to replace it still get the code lol
Hmm, you should take a look at the filler neck area. This is a known area where a pinhole corrosion hole can cause a P1457. I admittedly HATE dealing with the P1457 code b/c there are so so many places for fuel vapor to be leaking from your car. If you have done everything possible I'd say take a VERY VERY careful look at the filler neck as I suspect you've got some issues there. If all else fails you'll have to take to a shop to do a pressures smoke test to find the leak. You will have to pay to get this done but at least its saves you a ton of time to not have to deal with trying to blindly fix things b/c that is still money and time for you to do it.
@@piercedasian doesn't make any sense the car is rust-free never been in salt that means there was nothing wrong with my original part, my original part works fine with no leaks with 12 volts applied, i guess ill keep it around just in case i need it in the future
@@piercedasian i removed the cannister and my new purge valve and checked all the lines and connectors again and all look good, removed the fuel vent module on the opposite side and i think i may have found the problem with a vacuum test and adding 12 volts to it, but since i do not have a new part not sure how its supposed to behave, but i have seen people on youtube change this part with good results the bolts that hold it to the bracket was a problem though and i finally got it out, so more new bolts for that part
I have a 05 crv and don't have a code P1457. But a question when I pump gas it clicks off meaning it takes time to put gas in. If changing vent purge solenoid would that help? Thank you in advance 🤙🏽
If you don't have a CEL that would suggest the EVAP solenoid is bad that I would not bother changing it. If the gas pump is clicking off constantly that is the issue with either the pump or your fuel filler neck. I'd be inclined to believe it is the gas pump pushing fuel out too fast that is "sloshing gas" in the filler neck thus tripping the trigger mechanism. Fill slower and you should be ok.
Great video👍🏾, i did try this method on my 03 rsx as its the same as the 04-05 civic as well as the same check engine code. But unfortunately code still code back. Anything else i should check?
check the fuel filler neck going to the tank as well as your gas cap seal. EVAP leaks are a pain for the average person (including me) to pinpoint. The slightest leak will trigger the check engine light. If you're still stumped then you're going to have to take it to a shop to have them use a smoke generator to fill the system with smoke so they can pinpoint the leak that way.
I got that code and these are all the things I have replaced. Please help. New Evap canister. Evap solenoid shut off. FTP sensor. Evap purge valve (next to intake). Oem gas cap. Gas pump with new seal. The only thing left that I can think of is the vent solenoid that is with the ftp sensor
you may want to check your fuel filler neck. Common leak area on many cars and the civic is no exception to this. While I am fortunate enough to not have a fuel filler neck leak that corrosion of the neck or deterioration of the rubber connector piece on the neck will absolutely cause a EVAP system leak.
The screws I bought were from Honda. I believe I did state the part # of them in the video but if I didn't then just mosey on down to your local honda dealer and ask them for the little Phillips screws that hold the solenoid to the canister. They're a few bucks for the set of 3.
@@piercedasian thanks for your reply! the last time i tried buying parts from a dealer they denied me and said i have to bring in the vehicle for them to service it! ended up finding what i needed on ebay.
that's crazy! Where is this dealership that you went to so that our viewers can avoid going to them. That is the most absurd thing they could ask you to do. Like holding you ransom just b/c they think they can!
its much easier to change the solenoid/valve out if the canister is out of the car. It is super easy to remove so I suggest you take it out to service it.
Great vid. I have a question, I am getting code P2422 which is an issue with the shut valve, do you know if the canisters for a 2005 Honda CRV come with the shut valve attached or is it separate like the purge valve? thank you
I replaced the charcoal canister and solenoid but the code p1457 persisted. Then I replaced gas cap to no avail. The thing is even if I reset the CEL, the code will always come back. But it doesn’t set CEL light. Only shows up when I read the code.
That likely means its a pending code and if it keeps popping up to the ECU that eventually it will trigger the CEL lamp to come on. You might want to take a close examination of your fuel filler neck as corrosion can cause that to rust through or the rubber joining hose to deteriorate to the point where it have a pinhole leak. Do you ever smell gasoline odours?
I have a 2005 and trying this right now. I can’t get the 12mm off to drop the canister! Anyone have recommendations? It’s rusted as could be. It’s also soaking in penetrating oil
no symptoms at all. Just an annoying CEL. The car's drivability wasn't affected. I'm sure I took a microscopic hit to my fuel economy due to losing fuel vapours but in the grand scheme of things it wasn't even noticeable by me.
you may want to carefully inspect all the lines and fuel fill neck for a leak. If you're still getting an evaporative emissions light then there is a good chance you've got a leak elsewhere. I have been SUPER lucky that anytime I've had a failure on a honda that it is related to a bad solenoid valve but I have had examples where I've seen cracked hoses that were EXTREMELY hard to see without using a smoke injection machine.
@piercedasian I’m wondering if you could have changed that part without removing the canister? I live in Southern California so there’s no salt or rust, 2006 Ridgeline with the same code.
You could but honestly it is so much easier to get at it with it removed. It really isn’t hard to take out and even in rust laden Canada that the removal of the canister was the easiest part of the job. Yanking the rusted philips screws was the hardest part for me and thankfully they came out (just barely given the rust it had - I count my blessings)
I went ahead and bought both parts off of Amazon for a total of about $210. I assembled it before hand and it went in super easy. We have a 2001 civic so I figured it’s only going to be replaced probably once in the car’s lifetime so now everything is brand new and ready to roll!🚗
@@Gretzky2857 hey, thats a great idea! I was thinking of it to save myself from taking off those screws, so I think am gonna buy the canister and the vent valve separately, then assemble it and all i need to do is to take off the old canister and to put the new canister with the vent valve already assembled. Is that what you did? How hard was to take the old canister, i mean the bolt that secures it? What about the hoses?
I have a 96 accord 5 door lx f22b2 149k miles. Recently I smelled gas fumes, popped my head under the car while it was running and saw the vapors coming from the tube on the bottom of the evap canister. My cel is off, i rarely smell the fumes and I was wondering if there is any scenario in which the car would vent to atmosphere when the vehicle is running? Is it likely my CVSV is beginning to have issues or am I just sensitive to the smells? I have to take the car to emissions in the beginning of next week, I'd like to avoid any issues here and I csnt seem to find an answer on whether or not the car would ever vent while running.
you could see the vapours venting? It could very well be a lot of pressure inside the gas tank. Do you live in a hot climate? If there is no CEL I personally wouldn't worry about it too much.
I just paid someone to change mine today. My jack is questionable so I didn't want to risk it. It took them about 30-40 mins, primarily due to the rusty screws on the vent valve. I haven't driven the car much since, but prior to this issue, my car was running lean. My long term fuel trim was about +7, and my short terms would get up to like +12 at idle. I dunno if the P1457 will come back, but the car is still running lean afterwards. Is it possible that the charcoal cannister itself is bad and causing the car to be lean? I have 332K miles, not kilometers. I replaced the whole throttle body a few months ago with a used one and it came with the purge solenoid.
no if the car is running lean then there is a good chance there is something else at play. For all you know you could have worn fuel injectors or you have a vacuum lean that is causing the motor to have more air going into the system.
@@piercedasian Okay thanks. If the P1457 doesn't return then I won't worry about the charcoal cannister anymore then. The car doesn't run lean enough to throw a check engine light, so I guess it's okay now. Gas mileage is not as good as it used to be, but it's not horrible. Have you done an AC repair video? That's the next thing. I had a leak in my low side line, so I replaced that, and the high side line, and the condenser. The compressor will kick on and run for a few mins, but after that the compressor doesn't kick on anymore and I have really high pressure in the low side line. Not sure if I have another leak somewhere or if it's something else like a bad compressor. The compressor is still okay if it kicks on every time i put refrigerant in right? Even if it stops working after 10 minutes.
you'll need to look at other sources of the EVAP system for leaks. Another common area of failure is the filler neck and the rubber fuel hose that connects the filler neck to the tank. You'll need to get the car up so you can inspect. Alternative, you can pay a shop to use a "smoke" machine to find the leak for you and then you fix yourself.
@@piercedasian I had them replace the whole canister on Friday just to make sure that wasn't it. Car still runs lean, but it's only been a couple of days so the light hasn't come back on, and I haven't filled the gas up yet. Not sure if I mentioned it, but my car wouldn't start then stalled out multiple times after the last two times I've filled up gas. I'll know if it fixed that tomorrow when I fill up again. I also did your AC compressor shim removal thing yesterday. The AC was colder than it's been, but it felt like it was going in and out between really cold and just cold. But it has been cold the past couple of days/nights so I haven't tested it out again. If my filler neck is bad, does that mean I need to change the whole fuel tank or something? Cuz that would be a huge job. I already replaced the fuel pump with a used one with lower miles like 2 months ago.
I have the exact same code on my 99 civic. I knew the code but didn't know the exact issue. Took it Honda and my purge solenoid is actually stuck open. Either way it has to be replaced. You paid 120 bucks for your, mine cost 300 freaking dollars at the dealership. Everything on my Civic" part wise" is expensive as hell.
yeah, that is why they call them the stealership... at least yours is fixed now so you're doing the environment a favour so kudos to you for getting it fixed.
@@piercedasian I had to get it fixed. My car was running real real bad. The idling was horrible, it was hard to start etc...I use nothing but Honda OEM parts. I tried the part stores and my Honda does not like aftermarket parts.
I'm exactly the same way with genuine honda parts. They definitely cost more but you can have the assurances that the parts you buy will be a perfect fit and will operate as expected. I guess for $300 it isn't that bad b/c I'm assuming that includes the labor to install no?
@@piercedasian I installed it. My EVAP canister is under the hood on the firewall right next to my battery. Super easy to get to. The part I replaced the purge assembly solenoid. That part is located on the left side of my throttle body right on top. Super easy to get to. 2 screw 2 hoses off it comes.
I don't think that's the purge solenoid. I think the purge valve is on the other side of the EVAP canister. Purge solenoid connects to the intake to allow fuel vapors to enter engine. The purge valve for these civics is right next to the throttle body. It has a pipe connected to it with a green cap. What you are replacing is a vent valve. This valve is typically open. This allows air to escape when filling the fuel tank with fuel. When refueling your vehicle the air in the tank gets displaced by fuel but the air has to escape somewhere, therefore this valve is open to allow the air to escape.
Mohammad, you're correct. The folks at the dealership interchange evap purge and vent solenoid often (I know this b/c I worked at Honda) and after many years of throwing that term around and having people understand each other that even myself I get into a bad habit of calling something the wrong name. I will correct the title of my video but unfortunately the video itself will forever have incorrect terminology. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@piercedasian After doing some research, I was wrong too! Purge valve is next to intake manifold. It has the green cap next to it.. The one on the other side of the EVAP canister is the 2-way bypass.
Lol I am in love with anti seize compound. I use it on everything. Cursing? Surprisingly I didn’t curse once doing this job but other jobs I’ve done.... OMG. One day when I am brave enough I will post a video out take video of some of the mistakes and mishaps I have had.
it would be very similar. Honda uses interchangeable components on their cars but like anything in life, make sure you double check with your local dealership to confirm the part #'s before ordering.
hmm, have you checked your vacuum lines and you fuel filler neck for cracks and breaks? Another common spot where things can fail is the filler neck and the flex hose that ties it all together.
run a computer on it and erase the code. i just replaced mine and started the car up. the code popped up i ran the scanner found P1427 so i erased it and boom and hasnt come back its clear! at least i hope it works for you!
Just did mine today this video was not only helpful but very clear thank you for making it easy for first timers like me did it all alone thanks to you !!
GREAT video, crystal clear shots in a way where you can actually see what is going on. Fantastic!! It ALMOST makes me look forward to doing this job...
glad you liked the video!
Sweet, where are you located bro ive a job for you
I’m more than happy to let you practice on my car .lmk
I did mine on the weekend. Watched your video again and again before touching anything on my car. Anyway I went to the junkyard pulled out this canister, solenoid and the fuel cap. Bought them all for $26. Went home did the same thing on my civic. Removed the old fuel cap, canister and the soleniod and put in the used parts from the junkyard. It took a while to get it but at the end I got it...after the install was done I did the reset through my code reader. And today I drove over 300kms...guess what??? The light didn't come back again!!!! Thank you so much for the help you have the best video out there 😘😍
@@keatonvincent9752 let me know how it goes?
Glad my video was able to help you solve your problem!
Where did you end up getting the screws for the vent shut valve?
I had code P1457 EVAP Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister Area) on my son’s 2002 Civic Ex. I order the part on Amazon because the OEM was more than I wanted to spend. I had a minor challenge removing the small hose and clamp attached to the solenoid valve where that metal bar was so I removed the other end of said hose which made it very easy to remove and reinstall the charcoal filter. I also changed the gas cap because the gasket was cracked. When I reconnected the negative line to the battery no more check engine light! Over 275,000 miles and this car has lots of life left! We are original owners.
Thanks for this very clear video. I need to now cancel my appointment with the mechanic since we couldn’t wait for the 2 week lead time.
Glad you were able to get this all sorted out. It can be a bit crammed in the back of the gas tank area where this component is located so as long as you were able to get it out, replace the faulty part and get it all reinstalled properly that you're golden. Did the CEL go out and stay off once you replaced everything?
@@piercedasian Yes the CEL went off automatically when I reconnected the battery.
1 day update. The car ran great last night and to and from work. While I was bringing the car to my son the car went back to limp mode and the CEL popped up. Back to the drawing board.
Any suggestions out there I can look into before I cancel my appointment with the mechanic?
@@damanSV650 any updates? Did you was able to fix it? Or u went to the mechanic? Why the cel pooped again?
@@damanSV650 is it an automatic?
Awesome, video man. I just got done doing this job using just your video as guidance. I had to replace the EVAP canister and just did the vent solenoid at the same time as preventative maintenance. Keep up the great work man.
Thank you so much for this video. You're a God sent. You're videos have saved my life so many times. God bless you. Thank you again always.
Stephen from so cal
You’re very welcome. !
Dose this cause stalling at start ? .1998 honda accord.
Excellent video demonstration. Crystal clear descriptions and good camera work. Thank you!
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
Dude, I got to tell you that is one of the best videos and most helpful videos I've ever seen on UA-cam. You even gave the part number for the screws which was a blessing. Thank you so much it helped tremendously.
I'm glad you liked the video. I find a lot of UA-camrs make a bunch of CRAP content that doesn't TEACH their viewers the "WHYS" on things have to be taken apart or how they work. Blows my mind that people are willing to trust some guy that half shows them how to change or repair something that would have deleterious side effects by doing the procedure incorrectly. Fortunately in this video, you can't really mess things up but nonetheless I'm glad YOU see value in what I do and the effort put into these videos. Thank you for stopping by.
I replaced both the canister and the vent solenoid on 2003 Civic EX but had to drill out the screw that held the hose bracket, so I could reuse that bracket on the new canister. thank you for the video.
I like how you explain everything step by step. Thank you I had the same code and took it to a shop and still had the code. I will save money now thanks 😊
Glad it helped!
I can’t thank you enough for a clear concise tutorial. I just changed this out today. I even got inpatient with one of the screws (didn’t wait long enough for rust penetrate) and stripped it a little. I used your vice grip idea and got it removed.
I almost chickened out, but am so glad I didn’t.
you're most welcome! Sometimes in the repair world all that is needed to tackle an otherwise painful job is patience and perseverance. I hate rusted screws but living where I do unfortunately exposes cars to plenty of corroding salt. The type of penetrating oil you use DOES matter and I have found that liquid wrench and sometimes a bit of heat (on non meltable or flammable parts) seems to do the trick in MANY cases. WD 40 is useless and KROIL is waaaay overpriced and works no better than liquid wrench.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!! What a GREAT VIDEO you produced! IT HELPED SO MUCH! I was able to fix it today and i reset the engine light! Will have to see if it works or not but your video gave the confidence to do it!! So CHEERS MATE!
Glad you were able to fix your car!
I got the code, and ordered the solenoid on amazon. Ill be doing this operation closely watching your video next weekend! thank you!
Hopefully you were able to fix your issue.
About to do this tomorrow
@@piercedasian It worked!
Very easy to follow, thorough and clear instructions! Good job, please make more videos🙂
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks for making this video! I just replaced all this on my 2005 Civic and your video was very helpful! It kept me from throwing tools all over the garage! :)
Excellent video, once of the best DIY I think I've seen. Your tip on using the Vice-Grips on the screws definitelysaved me a ton of time and sanity. Took less than an hour to do this. I did have access to a lift which added to my time savings.
Glad you liked the video. You're a lucky person to have access to a lift.... I use a quick jack and that helps immensely but is a bit of a pain to setup.
Excellent demonstration on how to remove the EVAP canister, which I need to get out of the way to hopefully fix a fuel leak.
Glad it helped
Thank you! Once I was able to get the initial 12mm bolt off everything else was easy. Didn't need the vice grips, just moved the screws from side to side to loosen and get penetrating oil to all components; unscrewed easily. You made this super easy and saved me a lot of money at the repair shop. Superb video! :)
glad you liked the video!
I think it's funny that I'm coming back to you a second time after you helped me replace my rear window wiring. Having the same issues. So that solenoid is $60, but I can get a used Charcoal Canister with the solenoid for $80. So just $20 more, but probably a lot more work. Dunno what I should do. My car has gotten that code twice this week, but the car still drives pretty good. I just am running slightly lean, but not lean enough to trip the CEL for that. I have replaced the fuel pump, throttle body, and O2 sensor recently trying to get rid of that higher long term fuel trim, but it hasn't helped.
If you have higher fuel trim problems I'm going to say you likely have a vacuum leak somewhere that is causing this issue.
Thank you so much for this video. My son and I just did this today and it went really smooth!
You are so welcome!
just did it. thank you so much. this is by far the clearest video on how to do it n
Glad it helped!
Ive done a few of these and this I a great video!! Never understood why they would use philips head screws and not a 10mm bolt!!
right?! I 100% agree. If not a 10mm (m6 bolt) then at least give us a 8mm (m4) for gods sake.
Because they want you to buy the whole thing
Those screws are a pain to get off. U are a wizard
The screws were absolutely a nuisance and my only advice to getting any rusted bolt off is patience and a lot of rust penetrant lube.
He explained this better then a million certified mechanics
thanks! Glad that my OCD / tech talk tendencies helped people understand the fix.
Just did my wife's 2005 Honda Civic Lx was helpful, and your tutorial was on point. But, unfortunately, when I took the EVAP Vent solenoid out, it looked like someone had taken it out before because a sleeve on where the nut goes was missing on the sleeve where the screw goes to fasten on. So I went to AutoZone, but they don't carry any kits for sleeves. So I improvised and used an adhesive, hoping that would hold as I couldn't afford a new canister.
improvising is okay as long as it holds up and doesn't pose a safety concern.
@@piercedasian It actually worked, and the P1457 code did not come back on. I am used a silicon-based adhesive.
nice! Well done my friend!
Thank you for making this. 2004 Civic sedan base with 156k on the clock. I thought the CEL was possibly the gas cap, but the code reader says EVAP code. I have to double check the code#. This is an important Daily Driver that can't go down 😂. It doesn't have any rust, as it doesn't get driven in snow.
wow that's cool to know that you've got a 7th gen that is likely in minty shape. While the 7th gen was never my favorite generation of car that I have to admit ours has been very trouble free and we've been blessed to not have any real issues with it aside from a slightly slippy automatic tranny that is common on these cars. 375, 000kms and still going strong. She's showing a tiny bit of rust on the body that I probably will get to this summer to slow down or try to at least stop to make it last us another 5-6 years before we really go down the path of car replacement.
@@piercedasian thanks..now for the follow-up. It I double checked the code, it was p1456, the gas cap code. Both say EVAP, just in different places. I'm the 3rd owner, my sister got it from a coworker that lived in Washington DC. She only got the car as a way to get to the airports. Barely any miles when my sister got it. Then she gave it to me for a birthday present. I got a cap from a Honda dealership to be sure it would work. eBay seems to sell cheap junk that often fail.
wow that is a cool story! Hopefully the new gas cap you got resolved your issues.
@@piercedasian nope. Now a cam position sensor and catalytic code too
geez. What did you do to fix the issue?
I agree with the person under me, this is just such a well done job, both the recording of this vid, and the actual job you did on this Honda. awesome man! That code just came up on my Honda tonight while i was driving home from work. Damn man and i am suppose to be driving to PA tomorrow morning. ugh LIFE lol can i still drive the car like this or no? Thanks
Glad you liked the video. You can drive no issues and fix later. Have a safe trip.
Well I guess I know what I’ll be doing in the next week or so. Thanks a lot this was excellent!
I liked and subscribed I figure it’s just a minimum I can do.
Thanks for the sub! Best tip is to get a good quality penetrating oil (WD40 is not penetrating in my opinion). Get some liquid wrench or PB Blaster soak those screws down, give them a tap with a hammer and a twist with a screwdriver and more penetrating fluid and removal at that point should be a walk in the park.
Very clear steps to follow, really helpful. Thanks and
You're very welcome!
Great video, detailed explanation of how to replace purge valve. please be careful with jack stands they are known to fail, always use a backup like a floor jack.
Hello people, I had this problem years back. Did a smoke test at pep boys it came out no leaks. Spend about 700 at dealership to fix the problem and code still came back on. They replaced the solenoid in the rear and replaced the 80 amp fuse in front hood of the car. So finally the last solution I looked up replacing the pcv value and it was leaking oil. I think it solved the issue. I saw a video replacing pcv by youtube Gilbert. Hope this helps
Wow that is an odd fix for the EVAP error code. Good that you go it resolved.
Wow you made it soo easy. 10/10 VIDEO! Vicegrips were key there~!
I make it look easy b/c if you have patience and the right tools it IS easy :)
@@piercedasian Yup, took 45min, used your vid. Thanks
Thanks, gonna give it a go on my 03 civic.I have the solenoid just need to get the blasted thing off.
BANGER VIDEO HELPED PERFECTLY
So while trying to remove one of those screws the insert came out of the plastic canister not wanting to spend 150 on a new canister I heated up the insert got the screw out of it and then epoxied the insert back into the canister and bought new screws. Also if you need to clean up the threads on either the screws or the inserts or if you need to buy new screws the screws are M5
yeah sometimes the screws just jam us so badly that you end up tearing out the insert in the canister. You did exactly what I would've done and expoxied the threads back into the canister. Glad you got it all fixed up and hopefully you coated the screw with some anti seize to prevent future seizing of the screw.
I did! Thanks for making this video!
Excelente explicación
I needs mines done . How much would it cost to get this job done
Thank you thank you for your very detailed video. You made my day bro. You saved me a whole lot of money and a whole lot of time.
Thank you for an informative, clear video on replacement.
you're most welcome!
Thank you for the great video ! Do you know where I can find the hose replacement for all lines and mounting bracket ? I am worried of tears / breaks since I live north of the US with lots of snow ( rusty cars)
You likely are better off going to an auto wrecker to buy the complete assembly for cheap rather than buying new from the stealership.
Is this the same thing duralast canister purge Val PV337 from AutoZone
Bout to knock this out on my lunch break today! Thanks for the helpful video!
Any time!
Awesome video! I just got this code today on my 2002 honda civic. Yesterday i little over filled it at the gas station. I might have to look into it.
Good luck!
2003 RSX here. Oddly enough replacing that, the purge solenoid on the throttle body and doing a smoke test which revealed no leaks still hasn't fixed anything. Got a new OEM gas cap too. Still says there is a leak even though there visibly isn't one. Help?
Thanks for.making this video
not many have done this for this vehicle
Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing, my RSX has this I believe!
Best diy videos out there keep grinding bro!!!
Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Should I buy the charcoal canister and the vent valve separately to assemble it to make the job easier so I save myself from taking off those rusted screws? I was thinking of buying the canister and the vent valve, then assemble it, and removing the old canister and installing the new canister with the new vent valve already assembled. Is that a good idea?
sorry for my super late reply. It's really up to you. I don't like replacing parts that don't need replacing. I think you should try to remove the rusted screws using the method outlined here. Worst case is that if it doesn't come out then you can simply buy the canister after the fact and then fix it. The canister alone at Honda Canada's dealerships is SUPER expensive so that's why I opted to reuse what I could.
Hey appreciate you sharing this. I had the same code popping up on my 2003 civic lx, just switched it out yesterday with the Dorman part. Those two screws were very rusted on mine as well, I bought 2 new ones and put everything back together. Seems like I'm having better fuel economy after test driving it this morning, and still no check engine light.
What size are the screws? @xxerock92
@@lr5081 I forgot, I think he posted the part number for them in the comments somewhere
i’m having a hard time finding the correct screws online. any way you could send the website you found them on?
I didn’t go to a website, I called a Honda dealership. They’re cheap, I believe I just told them what the screws were for and they were able to find them, I don’t think I had a part #
@@xxerock92 okay thank you
Awesome video. I had a question though- this code came up on my Honda the other day, do I just need to replace the valve or should I also replace the canister? Thank you in advance!
No need to change the canister unless its damaged from impact or is cracked from trying to disassemble it. I'd just chance the solenoid out.
Great video, however, when i took out the screws the thread inserts came out with them, any suggestions?
hmm, that is no good. You can either buy a used charcoal canister OR get the threaded inserts off the rusted screws and then epoxy the inserts back to the canister (relatively easy to do).
Very easy to follow. Mine has a 01457 code so this is going to help!
Hopefully this fixed your issue.
Thank you great video
Thanks for the clear video. I'm looking at a 1999 Honda CR-V w/128,000 miles. The owner is has been very straightforward thus far and has taken a photo of the P1457 code on his scanner which would indicate that the EVAP needs replacement which led me to your video. If that P1457 has been active for some time would that have caused additional damage to the vehicle? Could that code be an indicator of other issues? Thanks again for the video and the advice on ordering he part.
Having a P1457 code won't really cause other issues other than you polluting the environment ever so slightly more. The issue with a P1457 code is that you could have leaks elsewhere in your evaporative emission system (leaky fuel filler neck, cracked pipes and seals). The P1457 code in my particular case is VERY common due to the fact that the car is quite old AND there is salt used in our area and corrosion will eat metal parts away that causes a leak as where I pointed out in my video. It will truly depend on where the leak is on your car but an evaporative emission leak alone won't damage anything else.
Excellent video, sir. Thank you!
I replace mine with an original Honda part and the gas cap and I still get a 1457. I took the original one down a couple times cleaned it up rust free perfect condition 100,000 miles finally said I'm going to replace it still get the code lol
Hmm, you should take a look at the filler neck area. This is a known area where a pinhole corrosion hole can cause a P1457. I admittedly HATE dealing with the P1457 code b/c there are so so many places for fuel vapor to be leaking from your car. If you have done everything possible I'd say take a VERY VERY careful look at the filler neck as I suspect you've got some issues there. If all else fails you'll have to take to a shop to do a pressures smoke test to find the leak. You will have to pay to get this done but at least its saves you a ton of time to not have to deal with trying to blindly fix things b/c that is still money and time for you to do it.
@@piercedasian doesn't make any sense the car is rust-free never been in salt that means there was nothing wrong with my original part, my original part works fine with no leaks with 12 volts applied, i guess ill keep it around just in case i need it in the future
@@piercedasian i removed the cannister and my new purge valve and checked all the lines and connectors again and all look good, removed the fuel vent module on the opposite side and i think i may have found the problem with a vacuum test and adding 12 volts to it, but since i do not have a new part not sure how its supposed to behave, but i have seen people on youtube change this part with good results the bolts that hold it to the bracket was a problem though and i finally got it out, so more new bolts for that part
I have a 05 crv and don't have a code P1457.
But a question when I pump gas it clicks off meaning it takes time to put gas in.
If changing vent purge solenoid would that help?
Thank you in advance 🤙🏽
If you don't have a CEL that would suggest the EVAP solenoid is bad that I would not bother changing it. If the gas pump is clicking off constantly that is the issue with either the pump or your fuel filler neck. I'd be inclined to believe it is the gas pump pushing fuel out too fast that is "sloshing gas" in the filler neck thus tripping the trigger mechanism. Fill slower and you should be ok.
@@piercedasian thank you! Be safe 🤙🏽
Probably filler neck that's problem with mine I'm guessing now if your cars running and registering gas it's not ur fuel pump or sending unit
Really well made, thanks for the help!
You're very welcome!
Great video. Well done. Thank you!!
you're welcome!
Great video👍🏾, i did try this method on my 03 rsx as its the same as the 04-05 civic as well as the same check engine code. But unfortunately code still code back. Anything else i should check?
check the fuel filler neck going to the tank as well as your gas cap seal. EVAP leaks are a pain for the average person (including me) to pinpoint. The slightest leak will trigger the check engine light. If you're still stumped then you're going to have to take it to a shop to have them use a smoke generator to fill the system with smoke so they can pinpoint the leak that way.
Were you able to find the cause? I’m having the same issue.
@@damanSV650 not yet
I got that code and these are all the things I have replaced. Please help. New Evap canister. Evap solenoid shut off. FTP sensor. Evap purge valve (next to intake). Oem gas cap. Gas pump with new seal. The only thing left that I can think of is the vent solenoid that is with the ftp sensor
you may want to check your fuel filler neck. Common leak area on many cars and the civic is no exception to this. While I am fortunate enough to not have a fuel filler neck leak that corrosion of the neck or deterioration of the rubber connector piece on the neck will absolutely cause a EVAP system leak.
Very good!
Thanks.
thanks for the video. where do i locate the screws? it looks like the part link is only the solenoid without the screws. thanks again!
The screws I bought were from Honda. I believe I did state the part # of them in the video but if I didn't then just mosey on down to your local honda dealer and ask them for the little Phillips screws that hold the solenoid to the canister. They're a few bucks for the set of 3.
@@piercedasian thanks for your reply! the last time i tried buying parts from a dealer they denied me and said i have to bring in the vehicle for them to service it! ended up finding what i needed on ebay.
that's crazy! Where is this dealership that you went to so that our viewers can avoid going to them. That is the most absurd thing they could ask you to do. Like holding you ransom just b/c they think they can!
@@piercedasian this was dreyer and reinbold bmw north located in indianapolis
Your video is a life saver, thank you. EP3 05si
You're most welcome. Thanks for stopping by and kick ass car you've got! I wish I had an EP3
Can you replace the valve without taking the whole cannister off?
its much easier to change the solenoid/valve out if the canister is out of the car. It is super easy to remove so I suggest you take it out to service it.
Good video!
Thanks so much,going to attempt this soon.wish me luck.🙏😌
Hopefully this fix worked out for you.
Awesome job 👍🏾
Thanks!
Great vid. I have a question, I am getting code P2422 which is an issue with the shut valve, do you know if the canisters for a 2005 Honda CRV come with the shut valve attached or is it separate like the purge valve?
thank you
my understanding is canisters and purge/vent valves ARE separate components.
Very good
Thank you Sir for the informative video. I will now attempt this on my 02 si.
Did it work?
@@piercedasian fixed it right up
I replaced the charcoal canister and solenoid but the code p1457 persisted. Then I replaced gas cap to no avail. The thing is even if I reset the CEL, the code will always come back. But it doesn’t set CEL light. Only shows up when I read the code.
That likely means its a pending code and if it keeps popping up to the ECU that eventually it will trigger the CEL lamp to come on. You might want to take a close examination of your fuel filler neck as corrosion can cause that to rust through or the rubber joining hose to deteriorate to the point where it have a pinhole leak. Do you ever smell gasoline odours?
@@piercedasian no gasoline odors
I have a 2005 and trying this right now. I can’t get the 12mm off to drop the canister! Anyone have recommendations? It’s rusted as could be. It’s also soaking in penetrating oil
What were the symptoms on car ?
no symptoms at all. Just an annoying CEL. The car's drivability wasn't affected. I'm sure I took a microscopic hit to my fuel economy due to losing fuel vapours but in the grand scheme of things it wasn't even noticeable by me.
helle thanks for your help i wuld to like to know the part number of the bolts
yikes, I can't remember what they were but if you call your local honda dealer they will be able to tell you. Sorry I couldn't be of more help to you.
I recently replaced with a new one from Honda dealer but engine light still on,so what is going next to do.Thanks
you may want to carefully inspect all the lines and fuel fill neck for a leak. If you're still getting an evaporative emissions light then there is a good chance you've got a leak elsewhere. I have been SUPER lucky that anytime I've had a failure on a honda that it is related to a bad solenoid valve but I have had examples where I've seen cracked hoses that were EXTREMELY hard to see without using a smoke injection machine.
@piercedasian I’m wondering if you could have changed that part without removing the canister? I live in Southern California so there’s no salt or rust, 2006 Ridgeline with the same code.
You could but honestly it is so much easier to get at it with it removed. It really isn’t hard to take out and even in rust laden Canada that the removal of the canister was the easiest part of the job. Yanking the rusted philips screws was the hardest part for me and thankfully they came out (just barely given the rust it had - I count my blessings)
I went ahead and bought both parts off of Amazon for a total of about $210. I assembled it before hand and it went in super easy. We have a 2001 civic so I figured it’s only going to be replaced probably once in the car’s lifetime so now everything is brand new and ready to roll!🚗
@@Gretzky2857 hey, thats a great idea! I was thinking of it to save myself from taking off those screws, so I think am gonna buy the canister and the vent valve separately, then assemble it and all i need to do is to take off the old canister and to put the new canister with the vent valve already assembled. Is that what you did? How hard was to take the old canister, i mean the bolt that secures it? What about the hoses?
What size are those two screws attaching the new part to the canister do you think? The non-OEM vent solenoid I got didn't come with screws sadly
I don't know the size but I do know you can buy them at the honda dealership for less than $1.
Would it work for Honda Accord 2000?
I have a 96 accord 5 door lx f22b2 149k miles. Recently I smelled gas fumes, popped my head under the car while it was running and saw the vapors coming from the tube on the bottom of the evap canister. My cel is off, i rarely smell the fumes and I was wondering if there is any scenario in which the car would vent to atmosphere when the vehicle is running? Is it likely my CVSV is beginning to have issues or am I just sensitive to the smells? I have to take the car to emissions in the beginning of next week, I'd like to avoid any issues here and I csnt seem to find an answer on whether or not the car would ever vent while running.
you could see the vapours venting? It could very well be a lot of pressure inside the gas tank. Do you live in a hot climate? If there is no CEL I personally wouldn't worry about it too much.
I just paid someone to change mine today. My jack is questionable so I didn't want to risk it. It took them about 30-40 mins, primarily due to the rusty screws on the vent valve. I haven't driven the car much since, but prior to this issue, my car was running lean. My long term fuel trim was about +7, and my short terms would get up to like +12 at idle. I dunno if the P1457 will come back, but the car is still running lean afterwards. Is it possible that the charcoal cannister itself is bad and causing the car to be lean? I have 332K miles, not kilometers. I replaced the whole throttle body a few months ago with a used one and it came with the purge solenoid.
no if the car is running lean then there is a good chance there is something else at play. For all you know you could have worn fuel injectors or you have a vacuum lean that is causing the motor to have more air going into the system.
@@piercedasian Okay thanks. If the P1457 doesn't return then I won't worry about the charcoal cannister anymore then. The car doesn't run lean enough to throw a check engine light, so I guess it's okay now. Gas mileage is not as good as it used to be, but it's not horrible.
Have you done an AC repair video? That's the next thing. I had a leak in my low side line, so I replaced that, and the high side line, and the condenser. The compressor will kick on and run for a few mins, but after that the compressor doesn't kick on anymore and I have really high pressure in the low side line. Not sure if I have another leak somewhere or if it's something else like a bad compressor. The compressor is still okay if it kicks on every time i put refrigerant in right? Even if it stops working after 10 minutes.
@@piercedasian So I had the vent solenoid replaced 3 days ago and the P1457 came back. What's the next thing to do?
you'll need to look at other sources of the EVAP system for leaks. Another common area of failure is the filler neck and the rubber fuel hose that connects the filler neck to the tank. You'll need to get the car up so you can inspect. Alternative, you can pay a shop to use a "smoke" machine to find the leak for you and then you fix yourself.
@@piercedasian I had them replace the whole canister on Friday just to make sure that wasn't it. Car still runs lean, but it's only been a couple of days so the light hasn't come back on, and I haven't filled the gas up yet. Not sure if I mentioned it, but my car wouldn't start then stalled out multiple times after the last two times I've filled up gas. I'll know if it fixed that tomorrow when I fill up again.
I also did your AC compressor shim removal thing yesterday. The AC was colder than it's been, but it felt like it was going in and out between really cold and just cold. But it has been cold the past couple of days/nights so I haven't tested it out again.
If my filler neck is bad, does that mean I need to change the whole fuel tank or something? Cuz that would be a huge job. I already replaced the fuel pump with a used one with lower miles like 2 months ago.
Thanks bossman
What is That instrument cluster you have that goes to 240 mph. I need to find that.
you saw incorrectly. It is a metric cluster that goes up to 240km/h. The fastest that I've seen a 7th gen go is about 220km/h lol.
Just got that code on my 01 Acura El!!!
Easy fix. Just let that penetrating oil work its magic.
Can’t find those screws anywhere.
Did you try your local Honda dealership? It is where I got mine from and they have a legit Honda part number for them.
@@piercedasian yes i did. i just thought i would be able to find it online. Thank you for the reply.
Is the vent solenoid the same as the "evap 2 way bypass valve"?
Yikes, I cannot recall what "honda calls it" but if you phone up the dealership they should be able to tell you specifically what it is called.
Where can I get replacement screws if possible whats the part number?
The screws are available at your local honda dealership.
Good video, straight to the point, i can tell you're a wrencher
Glad you liked the video. yes been wrenching for a long time and there is little time these days to waste blabbering about useless things.
I have the exact same code on my 99 civic. I knew the code but didn't know the exact issue. Took it Honda and my purge solenoid is actually stuck open. Either way it has to be replaced. You paid 120 bucks for your, mine cost 300 freaking dollars at the dealership. Everything on my Civic" part wise" is expensive as hell.
yeah, that is why they call them the stealership... at least yours is fixed now so you're doing the environment a favour so kudos to you for getting it fixed.
@@piercedasian I had to get it fixed. My car was running real real bad. The idling was horrible, it was hard to start etc...I use nothing but Honda OEM parts. I tried the part stores and my Honda does not like aftermarket parts.
I'm exactly the same way with genuine honda parts. They definitely cost more but you can have the assurances that the parts you buy will be a perfect fit and will operate as expected. I guess for $300 it isn't that bad b/c I'm assuming that includes the labor to install no?
@@piercedasian I installed it. My EVAP canister is under the hood on the firewall right next to my battery. Super easy to get to. The part I replaced the purge assembly solenoid. That part is located on the left side of my throttle body right on top. Super easy to get to. 2 screw 2 hoses off it comes.
Any symptoms?
nope, just a check engine light. The leak was so minor that it was just enough for the system to detect a leak in pressure/vacuum.
I don't think that's the purge solenoid. I think the purge valve is on the other side of the EVAP canister. Purge solenoid connects to the intake to allow fuel vapors to enter engine. The purge valve for these civics is right next to the throttle body. It has a pipe connected to it with a green cap.
What you are replacing is a vent valve. This valve is typically open. This allows air to escape when filling the fuel tank with fuel. When refueling your vehicle the air in the tank gets displaced by fuel but the air has to escape somewhere, therefore this valve is open to allow the air to escape.
Mohammad, you're correct. The folks at the dealership interchange evap purge and vent solenoid often (I know this b/c I worked at Honda) and after many years of throwing that term around and having people understand each other that even myself I get into a bad habit of calling something the wrong name. I will correct the title of my video but unfortunately the video itself will forever have incorrect terminology. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@piercedasian After doing some research, I was wrong too! Purge valve is next to intake manifold. It has the green cap next to it.. The one on the other side of the EVAP canister is the 2-way bypass.
Excellent job! Good call on the anti-seize. You do a great job editing out all of the curse words. LOL! 👍😁
Lol I am in love with anti seize compound. I use it on everything. Cursing? Surprisingly I didn’t curse once doing this job but other jobs I’ve done.... OMG. One day when I am brave enough I will post a video out take video of some of the mistakes and mishaps I have had.
P1456 is code for that valve. 1457 is 2 way valve
title of video corrected.
Good job.
Thanks!
Is this the same on the 1999 Acura 3.5RL?
it would be very similar. Honda uses interchangeable components on their cars but like anything in life, make sure you double check with your local dealership to confirm the part #'s before ordering.
Happen to have the part number for the screws?
As a matter of fact I do! Genuine Honda part #: 93893-05010-08
Thank you!
Thank you nice video 👌👌👌
Most welcome
I had this code, replaced the part and still get the code. Any thoughts?
hmm, have you checked your vacuum lines and you fuel filler neck for cracks and breaks? Another common spot where things can fail is the filler neck and the flex hose that ties it all together.
run a computer on it and erase the code. i just replaced mine and started the car up. the code popped up i ran the scanner found P1427 so i erased it and boom and hasnt come back its clear! at least i hope it works for you!
I have honda 2005 it having engine light on error P1457(3/3) pending Evap Control Ststem Leake Evap Canister Area how do I fix it
odds are that this video is what you'll have to do to fix it.
What year is the Tundra brother?
2010 4.6 v8 SR5 Double cab