Hi...six years later, your video is still helping others and I wanted to say THANK YOU! I'm working on 2003 Honda Pilot with 251k miles and trying to see how far she'll go. Still rolling!
Great DIY video - I just did the same as Andrew on our 2000 Accord coupe (in the driveway at -5C....) By leaving the solenoid alone and just popping the top off by bending the tabs, it was an easy clean/fix in the shop and no rusted bolts to mess around with. This video and the comments were gold! Thanks guys!
Did the repair including rebuilding the solenoid. On my 2004 Odyssey there is a steel stone shield removed with a 12mm socket. I removed the entire canister and left the solenoid attached so as not to mess with the rusted screws. Mine had the bend over tabs that were easy to open and re-close. I just used a small scrap of sandpaper to remove the rust on the inside.I also tested the solenoid using a 12v battery. This video helped me a lot and I thank you.
I have the exact same issue on my Honda right now I will definitely be trying that. Side note it is so nice to finally see somebody else who is willing to take the time to actually find out the issue and fix it instead of just replace it. it shows actual Integrity and pride in what you do
Thank you very much for posting. My Accord had the exact problem, with this in insight I tore into mine today and found it looking the same as yours with the rust. I cleared the code and it's still holding!! Thank you for your great reference video.
Thanks - saved me at least $40+ (if i bought the part and repaired it myself) or over $200 if my mechanic did it. After seeing this video (and some others), i decided to give it a shot, so i pulled the canister and valve out (only needed to remove 2.5 of the 4 bolts holding the shield and bend it down a bit). Carefully disconnected the 3 hoses and removed the 1 10mm bolt holding the canister in place. (It's a bit of a bitch lining that one up to get it back in). Now that i had it out (less than an hour), i thought, this is a piece of cake. WRONG. The screws to remove the valve from the canister wouldn't budge (even with the canister in a vise and a vise grips firmly grabbing the screws). So i tapped them a few times with a hammer, doused them with penetrating oil, hit 'em again and left it over night. Next day, still wouldn't budge, but thanks to the warning on the video re: melting the plastic, I heated the screws with a soldering iron stuck in the middle of the Philips head and some combination of the above did the trick and allowed me to crack the screws loose with the vise grips and remove (and reuse) the screws. Pulling the valve apart was pretty easy thanks to the video above and cleaning the inside just required some fine sandpaper. But one thing he didn't do was pull out the slider in the solenoid (grab the little white spoked deally that you can see at 4:15 of the video and pull out the black metal cylinder from the white plastic donut) and clean the inside of the plastic solenoid (with any household cleaning product) and lightly sand the outside of the metal cylinder (there was a rough spot on mine that i suspect was causing it to hang up). I didn't have any silicon goo handy so i used some plumbers valve grease coated on the o-ring when i put it back together. After getting it all back together, you can test it with a small 9 volt battery and listen to it click up and down and try blowing through it when it's engaged (nothing goes through). Then I reinstalled everything, cleared the code (battery disconnect for a bit). The code hasn't returned and i got my inspection sticker . . . My mechanic would have almost definitely also replaced the canister (another $80 or so) because he wouldn't have gone to all the trouble i did to get those screws loose. So a $200+ job cost me nothing but 2 hours of screwing around. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to do this. (Especially since your wife was probably nagging you the whole time about finishing painting the far wall with the spackle . . . ) BTW - this "leak" did not show up with a smoke test (an expensive waste of time). All they did was clear the code when they couldn't find anything and the CEL light came on the next day.
Great video...very clear...good camera angles...liked how you described the problems with removal and your fix...and then how you cleaned it up...well done...thanks.
I my self like to fix things myself if possible. By watching your video it was vary helpfully to start me in the right direction . To correct my 1457 code .or evap canister valves failure. Thank you vary much for your video. Yours truly, Don L.
Very helpful fix, it is worth trying this before buying a new one, however if the problem is with the electronic solenoid stuck and not actuating when it's supposed to open or close then you will need to buy a new one.
I agree, also someone in the comments said they shot it with a can of flex seal and it worked so I tried it on another van and it worked great. Honda should have sealed these units.
Great video I think I have the exact same code on my 2002 Accord and same problem, at least the part looks the same, so I will definitely try this out Thanks
Great video though, I'm definitely going to try this. Our 1999 Accord has this code and the valve looks about the same condition as yours (from the outside at least).
very cool video. extremely helpful.thank you!!! just did it today, hopefully that was all it was on a 01 odyssey heres a good tip!! instead of fighting and burning the screws, one of them seem'd very rusted. i tried very lightly to turn them with vice grips, since they didn't budge. heres what i did,.. i bent the little pieces of metal while the whole canister was attached, therefor i didn't have to deal with screws. all i used to bend the metal was needle nose pliers and a flat head screw driver, wasn't hard. if you do it this way you can still test it but instead of plugging up one end and putting your mouth on the other hose (you cant do that because the second hose is inside the canister), you will need to attach the electrical connecter to your 12v supply (car battery) and then put your mouth on the hose - works the same way. will let you know.
I just left mine in place and sprayed it twice with that "Seen on TV" sealer, flex seal. wife bought it for a fountain and had plenty left. CE cleared and has been gone for over 30 days and 3,000 miles. I would not have thought of it without this great video so thanks much! But the "fix" is easy and cheap - spray it and forget it!
Great idea. Will do it without detaching solenoid from canister. Covering whole thing in silicone or hot glue does helps only for few months. Need to work on your camera focus though, so many videos with focus on background :)
hey bro thanks for the vid. I just wanted to know how hot does the canister vent get. I am trying it today to try and pass my drive clean test up here in Canada.I am just concerned because I was wondering if the heat would surpass the temp rating on the silicone.
If you're going to use a torch, it's probably a good idea to take the canister and valve off the car first. If it's leaking gas fumes, you don't want to have a flame near that.
I did take it out first and did it on a bench, looking back on it I would try to heat it up by first placing a socket over the screw to better contain the heat and work it a little at a time.
Aren't those valves normally open? If you blow into it (unblocked) the air should go through. Is that right? I would think you have to energize the solenoid then blow into it to see if it is closed and sealed.I could be wrong.
on mine it is normally closed when no power. It's rusted worse then his, but I blew on both sides and nothing, so don't think it's leaking, or else it is supposed to be normally open and rusted shut??
Great video. Took out the canister in my sisters 98 honda accord coupe v6, I'm just afraid of removing those two Phillips screws. They look rusted in place. Would u suggest penetrating oil? I also have a small butane torch. Would that help it break loose?. Thx again for the great video.
the penetrating oil is worth a shot, also someone left a comment a while back that they used a can of flex seal to seal it and it worked. oddly enough I just bought a 2004 Honda odyssey that has the same code so I will be making another video step by step start to finish on this
AdirondackNY thanks my friend. I read about it but just decided to clean up that hole which was sealed with soot. Thought that was enough but looks like ill need that kit. And i have a honda accord. 1998. Well gfs. Trying to get it to pass emissions the right way.
I went ahead & replaced mine a couple of months ago...will rebuild the old one just to do.Unfortunately the check engine came back on with the P1457 code. Not sure what else to do?
Nice video. Great description on how to fix it. Wish you had filmed removing tne rust. What silicone did you use? Did the white o-ring swell at all? Keep it up!
Adirondack thanks for this video. It really helped me cause my car has this code. I have 1 question. this valve is connected to a much larger cannister on my 2001 Honda Civic. In order to drop the larger cannister I have to disconnect a larger hose at the top of the canister just above this valve. The hose has some kind of swivel elbow connector and I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Did you have the same procedure on the car you did this work on? thanks Jeff
no I didn't have a swivel but someone replied down below that they used a spray can of flex seal and it sealed the valve and it worked, they did this without taking anything out. if I come across another one of these I am going to try the flex seal
it probably does but it looks like the 01 civic with the 1.7 liter motor takes a different valve but simular. I would buy the valve from the auto parts store and try to repair the old one so if it doesnt work out just put the new one in. if it does work out then get a refund for the part
can someone please help me. I followed the instructions and changed the valve, turned off the check engine light and after running like 20 miles engine light came back on. my mechanic did the smoke test to look for any leaks and he found nothing, he then changed my fuel cap and after 30 miles this time the engine light came back again. can someone help to find other cause? pleas
Jr jr I've got more Hondas since this video with the same problem and repaired the valve and the light came back on as well, so I pulled the unit out, plugged the vents and put it under water with air pressure and found leaks so I sprayed to with a can of flexseal and it worked
I only wish I could of known how to get the rear hose off without ruining it first-- (You have to squeeze it then pull it off) now mine will not reconnect- I'm so frustrated with this ..
Tried this but got another leak path at next joint below the steel shown cleaned (between elbow and steel stamping). Part is $40 at Pep Boys $30 online. Not worth trying again. Like the parrot !
Hi...six years later, your video is still helping others and I wanted to say THANK YOU! I'm working on 2003 Honda Pilot with 251k miles and trying to see how far she'll go. Still rolling!
Great DIY video - I just did the same as Andrew on our 2000 Accord coupe (in the driveway at -5C....) By leaving the solenoid alone and just popping the top off by bending the tabs, it was an easy clean/fix in the shop and no rusted bolts to mess around with.
This video and the comments were gold! Thanks guys!
Did the repair including rebuilding the solenoid. On my 2004 Odyssey there is a steel stone shield removed with a 12mm socket. I removed the entire canister and left the solenoid attached so as not to mess with the rusted screws. Mine had the bend over tabs that were easy to open and re-close. I just used a small scrap of sandpaper to remove the rust on the inside.I also tested the solenoid using a 12v battery. This video helped me a lot and I thank you.
I have the exact same issue on my Honda right now I will definitely be trying that. Side note it is so nice to finally see somebody else who is willing to take the time to actually find out the issue and fix it instead of just replace it. it shows actual Integrity and pride in what you do
great video! Love finding out ways to repair rather than replace! This is a great tutorial for Honda owners
Usually I can’t sit through other diy vids but yours made it cool! Thanks
Thank you very much for posting. My Accord had the exact problem, with this in insight I tore into mine today and found it looking the same as yours with the rust. I cleared the code and it's still holding!! Thank you for your great reference video.
Thanks Sarge! Your the only one on the tube that took the time to show a repair. Way to kewl....
Thanks - saved me at least $40+ (if i bought the part and repaired it myself) or over $200 if my mechanic did it. After seeing this video (and some others), i decided to give it a shot, so i pulled the canister and valve out (only needed to remove 2.5 of the 4 bolts holding the shield and bend it down a bit). Carefully disconnected the 3 hoses and removed the 1 10mm bolt holding the canister in place. (It's a bit of a bitch lining that one up to get it back in). Now that i had it out (less than an hour), i thought, this is a piece of cake. WRONG. The screws to remove the valve from the canister wouldn't budge (even with the canister in a vise and a vise grips firmly grabbing the screws). So i tapped them a few times with a hammer, doused them with penetrating oil, hit 'em again and left it over night. Next day, still wouldn't budge, but thanks to the warning on the video re: melting the plastic, I heated the screws with a soldering iron stuck in the middle of the Philips head and some combination of the above did the trick and allowed me to crack the screws loose with the vise grips and remove (and reuse) the screws. Pulling the valve apart was pretty easy thanks to the video above and cleaning the inside just required some fine sandpaper. But one thing he didn't do was pull out the slider in the solenoid (grab the little white spoked deally that you can see at 4:15 of the video and pull out the black metal cylinder from the white plastic donut) and clean the inside of the plastic solenoid (with any household cleaning product) and lightly sand the outside of the metal cylinder (there was a rough spot on mine that i suspect was causing it to hang up). I didn't have any silicon goo handy so i used some plumbers valve grease coated on the o-ring when i put it back together. After getting it all back together, you can test it with a small 9 volt battery and listen to it click up and down and try blowing through it when it's engaged (nothing goes through). Then I reinstalled everything, cleared the code (battery disconnect for a bit). The code hasn't returned and i got my inspection sticker . . . My mechanic would have almost definitely also replaced the canister (another $80 or so) because he wouldn't have gone to all the trouble i did to get those screws loose. So a $200+ job cost me nothing but 2 hours of screwing around. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to do this. (Especially since your wife was probably nagging you the whole time about finishing painting the far wall with the spackle . . . ) BTW - this "leak" did not show up with a smoke test (an expensive waste of time). All they did was clear the code when they couldn't find anything and the CEL light came on the next day.
I'm gonna try this on 99 honda CRV and see how it works, thanks for the vid. Say hello to Sgt if he still around. :)
Great video...very clear...good camera angles...liked how you described the problems with removal and your fix...and then how you cleaned it up...well done...thanks.
I my self like to fix things myself if possible. By watching your video it was vary helpfully to start me in the right direction . To correct my 1457 code .or evap canister valves failure. Thank you vary much for your video.
Yours truly,
Don L.
What was the issue might i ask?
Thanks for the follow through on testing the repair, I will give it a try on my van currently throwing the 1457 code.
Very helpful fix, it is worth trying this before buying a new one, however if the problem is with the electronic solenoid stuck and not actuating when it's supposed to open or close then you will need to buy a new one.
I agree, also someone in the comments said they shot it with a can of flex seal and it worked so I tried it on another van and it worked great. Honda should have sealed these units.
I have a 2000 Honda Odyssee and will clean it like you instructed.
Lmao put a screen on one side put tobacco in and puff on the other side. Lol. Don't think no one caught that one. Hahaha
Great video I think I have the exact same code on my 2002 Accord and same problem, at least the part looks the same, so I will definitely try this out Thanks
Great DIY- thank you ! And Sarge is so cute!
Your a boss! I have the exact problem in the 01' Odyessey. Thanks
thanks,thanks,thanks!!! great video. you saved me time and money. I tried in my Honda CR-V and it works.....
I wonder how many people actually know what a smoke test is. But hey the test you mention would work. Just taste like fuel!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video...it help me very much.
Great video though, I'm definitely going to try this. Our 1999 Accord has this code and the valve looks about the same condition as yours (from the outside at least).
when I looked the part up on eBay I saw it is the same one as the Accord
Beautiful and clear explanation,👍👍👋
Thank you I have a HONDA CRV what a great plan! I have to find mine now. Mahalo my friend.
Thanks!! Very informative!! I will try this on mine before buying a new one!!
Great job I'm trying to fix my 2002 crv with a revving issue
Does it rev up and down? Could be the idle air control valve.
very cool video. extremely helpful.thank you!!!
just did it today, hopefully that was all it was on a 01 odyssey
heres a good tip!!
instead of fighting and burning the screws, one of them seem'd very rusted.
i tried very lightly to turn them with vice grips, since they didn't budge.
heres what i did,..
i bent the little pieces of metal while the whole canister was attached, therefor
i didn't have to deal with screws.
all i used to bend the metal was needle nose pliers and a flat head screw driver, wasn't hard.
if you do it this way you can still test it but instead of plugging up one end and putting your mouth on the other hose (you cant do that because the second hose is inside the canister), you will need to attach the electrical connecter to your 12v supply (car battery) and then put your mouth on the hose - works the same way.
will let you know.
I just left mine in place and sprayed it twice with that "Seen on TV" sealer, flex seal. wife bought it for a fountain and had plenty left. CE cleared and has been gone for over 30 days and 3,000 miles. I would not have thought of it without this great video so thanks much! But the "fix" is easy and cheap - spray it and forget it!
Denny Johnson fantastic idea,,, if Honda did that from the factory I would bet this would never been an issue.
Denny Johnson sure it don't leak no more but does it function like it's suppose to?????
dana horner has worked flawlessly for 2 months and 4k now. I expect it to last years.
Great job!! Thank you for this video, very helpful 🙏🏼
What's up dude?! Thanks for the help!
Great idea. Will do it without detaching solenoid from canister. Covering whole thing in silicone or hot glue does helps only for few months. Need to work on your camera focus though, so many videos with focus on background :)
Thanks for the demo and fix!
Don't "tell" us where it is, "show" us.
Great video, I have a 2000 HONDA Insight, is it the same and where is it located? You did a great job explaining the issue!!!
Great job! I love zero-dollar fixes of poor designs.
Great video I'm gonna dig into it tomorrow. Thx
hey bro thanks for the vid. I just wanted to know how hot does the canister vent get. I am trying it today to try and pass my drive clean test up here in Canada.I am just concerned because I was wondering if the heat would surpass the temp rating on the silicone.
Hi, I'm getting the P1457 code on my 2001 Acura MDX. Can you tell me what I should look at next and the location on my car? Thanks
You sir are a genius!
I like it. I will get back and post the second comment if it works for me. Thanks
If you're going to use a torch, it's probably a good idea to take the canister and valve off the car first. If it's leaking gas fumes, you don't want to have a flame near that.
I did take it out first and did it on a bench, looking back on it I would try to heat it up by first placing a socket over the screw to better contain the heat and work it a little at a time.
Aren't those valves normally open? If you blow into it (unblocked) the air should go through. Is that right? I would think you have to energize the solenoid then blow into it to see if it is closed and sealed.I could be wrong.
on mine it is normally closed when no power. It's rusted worse then his, but I blew on both sides and nothing, so don't think it's leaking, or else it is supposed to be normally open and rusted shut??
I like it rain day friday going to check it out thankyou.
Great info. Your the Man!
Great video, but the adorable parrot was the high point!
Great video. Took out the canister in my sisters 98 honda accord coupe v6, I'm just afraid of removing those two Phillips screws. They look rusted in place. Would u suggest penetrating oil? I also have a small butane torch. Would that help it break loose?.
Thx again for the great video.
the penetrating oil is worth a shot, also someone left a comment a while back that they used a can of flex seal to seal it and it worked. oddly enough I just bought a 2004 Honda odyssey that has the same code so I will be making another video step by step start to finish on this
Followed your video and ur advice on the penetrating oil. It went smooth and no more leaks. Thx again for your help and advice
Good job. Thank you for the video.
Excellent Work Mon
Hey nice work , did you hook it back up to the car and tested it ? And if so , does it work ?
Could I get a part number on this piece? I have the same issue on my 02 Accord.
Happen to know where the solenoid is? I am also getting a bad egr valve lift. Changed egr and cleaned intake.
AdirondackNY thanks my friend. I read about it but just decided to clean up that hole which was sealed with soot. Thought that was enough but looks like ill need that kit. And i have a honda accord. 1998. Well gfs. Trying to get it to pass emissions the right way.
Nice repair job
have an 02 civic 1.7 liter .. OBD trouble code reads evap system canister .. is this a simple fix ?
I can,t believe that you used a torch on a canister that contains gasoline vapors.
No guts, no glory.
i almost lost an eyebrows one time doing so... never again! lol
Gordon Ward that’s why nobody will remember your name
Thanks easy fix 2003 Honda polit.
Very helpful thank you.
I went ahead & replaced mine a couple of months ago...will rebuild the old one just to do.Unfortunately the check engine came back on with the P1457 code. Not sure what else to do?
Nice video. Great description on how to fix it. Wish you had filmed removing tne rust. What silicone did you use? Did the white o-ring swell at all? Keep it up!
I used the silicone gasket maker I think its called RTV gasket maker. it didn't swekk the gasket O-ring at all
Adirondack thanks for this video. It really helped me cause my car has this code. I have 1 question. this valve is connected to a much larger cannister on my 2001 Honda Civic. In order to drop the larger cannister I have to disconnect a larger hose at the top of the canister just above this valve. The hose has some kind of swivel elbow connector and I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Did you have the same procedure on the car you did this work on? thanks Jeff
no I didn't have a swivel but someone replied down below that they used a spray can of flex seal and it sealed the valve and it worked, they did this without taking anything out. if I come across another one of these I am going to try the flex seal
This is great
nice, good video thank you
Nice Sarge!!
Can this stop you from going in tooo gear ???
also works on 2001-2005 Civic
Thank you sir!
I have cuestion. Where you buy the gasket
I would go to a local auto parts store and get an O ring to fit it.
will the car leak gas with a bad valve or canister. I get the code 1457 and leak fuel
Is just gas vapors
Is your honda is 2.3 L , please let me know thanks .
it was a V6 I think a 3.5L
thank you so much
Hopefully that's the same evap leak I'm dealing with its driving me crazy looking for the leak
Does this apply to 2001 honda civic as well?
it probably does but it looks like the 01 civic with the 1.7 liter motor takes a different valve but simular. I would buy the valve from the auto parts store and try to repair the old one so if it doesnt work out just put the new one in. if it does work out then get a refund for the part
AdirondackNY No returns on electrical parts.
Thank you
thnx brother
right on
What is the name of the valve that leaks?
canister vent shut
I got that code an I smell gas vi uld that be it?
I heard that leak at 9:04
before you go through all that you should test the solenoid doncha think?
Iv been searching for the darn solenoid. Where is it amd what does it look like
vicicastro it looks like the same thing pictured in the video underneath the vehicle behind the drivers side rear axle
Nice!!!
thanx
Nice
can someone please help me. I followed the instructions and changed the valve, turned off the check engine light and after running like 20 miles engine light came back on. my mechanic did the smoke test to look for any leaks and he found nothing, he then changed my fuel cap and after 30 miles this time the engine light came back again. can someone help to find other cause? pleas
Jr jr I've got more Hondas since this video with the same problem and repaired the valve and the light came back on as well, so I pulled the unit out, plugged the vents and put it under water with air pressure and found leaks so I sprayed to with a can of flexseal and it worked
I only wish I could of known how to get the rear hose off without ruining it first-- (You have to squeeze it then pull it off) now mine will not reconnect- I'm so frustrated with this ..
Good... Tank You :-)
Honda wants to charge me $518.86 to replace this in my 2002 Odyssey.
+Gail Ulm Wow that sucks
there 60 at advanced auto and junk yards r always a deal
DIY and tell them to go pound sand
👍
Another Story?
Tried this but got another leak path at next joint below the steel shown cleaned (between elbow and steel stamping). Part is $40 at Pep Boys $30 online. Not worth trying again. Like the parrot !
I though there was the bird was in my house at first.
Nice hack.
2.comments😂
good vid. thanks for sharing.
will the car leak gas with a bad valve or canister. I get the code 1457 and leak fuel
I don't think the gasoline leak has anything to do with the valve
Thanks
will the car leak gas with a bad valve or canister. I get the code 1457 and leak fuel